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24-HOUR FAX ORDERING 612-452-4298 FREE Information Available *Quartz Movements * Crystals & Fittings * * Resale Merchandise* Findings* Serving The Trade Since 1923 * Stones* Tools & Supplies * VOLUME 15, NUMBER 1 JANUARY 1991 A New HOROLOGICAL Series for Clockmakers 34

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

ALICE B. CARPENTER 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Manufacturing 6 Johnson of Liverpool

JOE CROOKS BENCH TIPS 8 To See or Not To See A New

CHARLES CLEVES OLD WATCHES 10 Pens vs . Watches Strike Rack ROBERT D. PORTER WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 12 How to Make and Fit a Case Tube JOHN PLEWES CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT 39 16 Restoring Clock Cases , Part 2

MARVIN E. WHITNEY MILITARY TIME 20 Marine Clock - E. Howard & Co., Boston

ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY WATCHES 24 Antique Watch Restoration, Part LXI

WES DOOR SHOP TALK 28 Quartz Movement Interchangeability Chart, Part 4

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL 32 A Beginner's Course in Jewelry Crafting and Repair - Ring Sizing (Part 3)

J.P. KENYON TIMELY TIPS FOR CLOCKMAKERS 34 Horological Calculations

HENRY B. FRIED SELF-WINDING WATCHES 36 The Chrono-Matic, Part 3

JAMES ADAMS NOVICE WATCHMAKER 42 Cleaning the American Pocket Watch

PAUL D. WADSWORTH AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN 42 46 On Forming a Guild

HENRY B. FRIED BOOK REVIEW 47 "The Watch of the Future: The Story DEPARTMENTS of the Hamilton Electric Watch" "Quartz Movement Reference" Up Front/4

JAMES LUBIC SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING Ask Huck/14 49 A Success Story Bulletin Board/22 Material Search Network/23 Association News/47 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American New Products and Literature/SO Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 News in the Trade/51 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, Classified Ads/52 P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/56 Advertisers' I ndex/56 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX: (513) 661-3131 . George Daniels Henry B. Fried Josephine F. Hagans * FELLOWS * "Orville R. Hagans OF THE AMERICAN Harold J. Herman Gerald G. Jaeger EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Robert A. Nelson *Hamilton E. Pease AWi Central Milton C. Stevens P.O. Box 11011 *Deceased Marvin E. Whitney 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838

Milton C. Stevens : Co-Editor Michael P. Danner: Co-Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor hat is an identification mark? From time Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor W immemorial it has been a scratch put in Donna Baas: Production Director the back of a watch case by a watchmaker so he could tell at a glance if he had ever worked on the Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager watch before. Some of the scratch marks were really Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager unique! Some would tell the watchmaker only if Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator he had ever worked on the watch, while others would tell the watchmaker exactly what he had TECHNICAL EDITORS: done to the watch, as well as the date the repairs were done. This was ingenious! A repair person did James Adams Wes Door not have to depend on a vague description in a Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried repair log to tell him he may or may not have worked on that particular timepiece James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman before. After all, there were a lot of watches sold that looked exactly alike. Some scratch Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson marks had symbols to represent the particular watchmaker. One in my hometown has Charles Cleves the name of Rex. He uses an "R" with the down stem marked with an "x". Another in Archie B. Perkins my state circles the job number of the timepiece with the date on the outside of the Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond circle. Another uses his AWi registered identification mark (case scratch) with a code for Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney what he did to the timepiece: 1 ; clean and overhaul, 2 ; staff, 3 ; mainspring, and so forth, and ended with a date. So, what is an AWi identification mark and how is it different from the old AW/ OFFICERS: original mark that each individual watchmaker came up with? An AWi identification mark is a nationally registered mark given to a watch­ Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: President maker/clockmaker when he/she joins AWi. It is also available to others upon request. Wes Door, CMW: First Vice President One need not be an AWi member to request an identification mark. A record of that James Adams, CMW: Second Vice President person's mark is kept on file at AWi headquarters. What is the purpose of this? I'm glad you asked that question! Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary Let's say that an unidentified body is found and he or she is wearing a watch. Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI : Treasurer If that watch was repaired by a person who used his AWi identification mark, the law enforcement agency can request the identity of the repair person. The repair person can AW/ DIRECTORS: then provide the police with the identity of the owner of the watch. The identification mark also satisfies the original intent of marking the case so William Biederman, CMW that the repair person will know what repairs were done and when. Robert F. Bishop, CEWS The national registered identification mark is not confined to watches. How many of you mark the clock movements? If you don't, why not? How better to know if James H. Broughton, CEWS and when you worked on that particular movement? My memory isn't all that infallible. Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS A lot of the clock movements are so similar that after you've been in the business for 20 Henry Frystak, CMW years, they only seem like you may have worked on them 5 years ago. Not so good if Ewell D. Hartman, CMW you need irrefutable evidence of what was done and when it was done. Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS, FAWI Many collectors and jewelers mark "important" pieces with their identifica­ tion mark. It aids in recovery should the items be stolen. Donald R. Loke So, why don't you use the identification mark assigned to you? If you don't Robert L. Macomber, CMC remember yours, contact AWi Central. Encourage friends in the business to ask for one. Marshall F. Richmond, CMW We have an identification mark committee, chaired by Robert Macomber of Arizona. Bob is very enthusiastic about the ID mark program. If you are interested in presenting a program about the ID mark system, contact Bob Macomber. He will see to Paul D. Wadsworth: Affiliate Chapter Director it that you have the information you need to put on your own program. How to contact Arnold Van Tiem: REC Director , Bob? Write to him in care of AWi Central in Cincinnati. Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: Immediate Past President HAPPY IDENTIFICATION MARK, EVERYBODY!

Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per­ mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy­ ON THE FRONT: The forest is wrapped in a soft blanket of snow in this right ©1991 by the American Watchmal

2 Horological Times/January 1991 Finally, a movement cleaning system that cleans both metal and plastic movements. "QUARTZ CLEAN" & "PLASTICLEAN" have revolutionized the work of hundreds of watchmak­ ers. Movement cleaning no longer requires gear train disassembly. The high pressure spray and microscopic cleaning action of these powerful solutions penetrate the tiny pivot holes, flushing away dry oils and con­ taminants. Don't waste. valuable time cleaning quartz movements the old fashion way. Discover the "Quartz Clean" Systems and reduce cleaning time to seconds! 1----QCJARTZ CLEAN---PlastiCLEAN

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"Quartz Clean" is a high purity, "PlastiCLEAN" rapid penetrating, cleaning is a solution es­ solution that quickly dissolves pecially suited contaminants. The 16 oz. for dissolving aerosol is ideally suited for grease and dirt quartz watch movements and from plastic components. It small clock movements. The is used with the one quart bottle is for use with QC-150C and QC-1 SOC and QC-250P air­ QC-250P air­ brush systems. See page 3 for brush systems. details. See page 3 for details. No Gear Train Disassembly

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PROJECT EXTEND COURSE SCHEDULE MARCH SUBJECT AREA CALENDAR 11-15 Clock Repair I - Roland Iverson (Intro Clocks) 18-22 Clock Repair 11 - John P. Kenyon (Advanced Clocks)

APRIL he schedule for the Project Extend courses has been 8-12 Watch Repair I - James Lubic (Staffing, etc.) firmed up and we are ready to accept enrollments 15-19 Watch Repair II - Harold Herman (Hairspring Vibrating) T 29-May 3 Watch Case Repair - Marshall Richmond (Case Repair) for the various courses. At right is the course schedule, listed in chronological order. MAY AWi has leased space in a new building and is in the 6-10 Watch Repair VI - Harold Herman (Production Repair) process of equipping the Project Extend Lab with furnishings, 13-17 Quartz I - Gerald Jaeger (Intro Quartz) 20-24 Quartz II - Robert Bishop (Advanced Quartz) tools, equipment, and supplies. A fully equipped lab will permit training at a level we just cannot achieve in traveling JUNE workshops. The five-day sessions will provide for many more 3-7 Quartz 111 - Alice Carpenter (Quartz Cert. Exam) practical experiences in developing or refining the various 10-14 Watch Repair 111 - James Lubic (Complicated Watch) skills being taught. 22-26 Watch Repair IV - Antoine Simonin (tentative) (Ch ronographslrepeater) Project Extend courses offer a once in a lifetime opportunity for AWi members. There is no tuition; students JULY pay only for their transportation and room and board. Those 8-12 Watch Repair V 11 - James Lubic (Watch Cert. Exam) who need financial assistance with their room and board may 15-19 Clock Repair V - John P. Kenyon (Clock Cert. Exam) apply for one of the grants of $250 which are available in 29-Aug. 2 Support Services - Ewell D. Hartman (Store Personnel) limited number by the AWi-ELM Trust. This should easily AUGUST cover room expenses for the week. 5-9 Lathe I - James Lubic (Intro Lathe) Contact AWi Central for a brochure giving complete 12-16 Lathe 11 - Archie Perkins (Advanced Lathes) details of Project Extend, its policies, motel information, 19-23 Clock Case Repair - James Williams (Clock Case Repair) and much more. At the same time ask for individual brochures 26-30 Clock Repair IV - Marvin E. Whitney (Practical Repairs) for each class that interests you. Course brochures give a com­ SEPTEMBER plete course outline, tool list, prerequisites, and other details 9-13 Watch Repair V -Archie Perkins (Antique Watch Rest.) about that specific course. If financial assistance is necessary 16-20 Management for WatchlClockmakers - for you to attend, write for a grant application. Grant applica­ Fred Burckhardt (Management) tions must be received six weeks prior to the course you plan 23-27 Clock Repair 111 (Antique Clock Rest.) to attend.

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4 Horological Times/January 1991 TAPE 21: Approximately 2 hours J.M. HUCKABEE'S SUBJECT MATTER: Making an American clock verge. Huckabee demonstrates how to select and work raw materials into a verge for an Ingraham miniature kitchen clock­ ''Random Clock Talks'' time only.

TAPE 22: Approximately 2 hours The series of 37 "Random Clock Talks" videotapes listed below are available for loan SUBJECT MATTER: Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen claek from to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes vary in viewing time Tape 21. Also random tips and cutting a from 1.25 to 2.00 hours and are available in the VHS format. A service charge of 32-tooth recoil escape wheel for an Ansonia $5.00 each is to accompany requests to borrow a tape; only one tape is loaned at a kitchen clock. time. The service charge covers AWi's production and shipping costs. Tapes should be TAPE 23: Approximately 2 hours returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured for $30.00. Please order tape SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot and bushing by number along with your name, address, and $5.00 service charge. Send to: AWi problems and their repair. Audio Visual Library, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. TAPE 24: Approximately 2 hours Not available at this time. TAPE 1: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 12: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A brief view and SUBJECT MATTER: Using a custom-made discussion of a variety of clocks and tools attachment to make wheels and index plates used in the Huckabee shop. on the Unimat lathe. The custom-made TAPE 25: Approximately 2 hours attachments can be made from drawing SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring TAPE 2: Approximately 2 hours available from AWi upon request (cost to and barrel work. SUBJECT MATTER: Demonstration and cover printing and postage is $2.00). discussion on using various tools and lathes TAPE 26: Approximately 2 hours to make and fit a clock bushing. SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring ends TAPE 13: Approximately 2 hours and barrel teeth. Huckabee demonstrates SUBJECT MATTER: Cutting clock wheels­ TAPE 3: Approximately 2 hours how to replace teeth in the barrel of an a demonstration of cutting the wheels used SUBJECT MATTER: Discussion and dem­ Urgos 8-day modern clock. Huckabee in the AWi CMC examination. onstration on lathe operation using the also fashions a new hole end for the main­ Boley watchmakers lathe and the C&E spring. TAPE 14: Approximately 2 hours Marshall watchmakers lathe. SUBJECT MATTER: Using an inexpen­ TAPE 27: Approximately 2 hours sive quartz analog clock movement, Huck­ TAPE 4: Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Understanding the abee disassembles the movement and pro­ SUBJECT MATTER: An analysis and work antique American clock time train and vides an in-depth explanation of each with the Urgos 21142 8-day trapezoid repairs to it and using the Unimat lathe component and their function in the opera­ time only clock. to polish pivots. tion of the timepiece. TAPE 5: Approximately 2 hours TAPES 28 & 29 TAPE 15: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration and Not available at this time. SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents an discussion about drilling the arbor using in-depth discussion on the design of cutting Huck's "turning in a box" method and TAPES 30-34: Approximately 2 hours each tool bits, both hand-held and those held making a pivot. SUBJECT MATTER: A series of five tapes in the tool post rest. Also a discussion of designed as a teaching exercise which TAPE 6: Approximately 1.75 hours steel-its composition and characteristics. encompasses every facet of lathe work SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration of encountered in the clock shop. Produced wheel cutting using clear plastic and a TAPE 16: Approximately 1.50 hours in conjunction with a series of drawings Mosley watchmakers lathe. Huckabee cuts SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents which are provided by AWi when you four gears such as those required in the AWi an in-depth discussion about hairsprings. borrow the first tape in the series. Upon certification examination. He also demonstrates how to vibrate a clock completion of the work you have a set of hairspring. excellent useable lathe accessories for use TAPE 7: Approximately 1.75 hours in your shop. SUBJECT MATTER: The Birge & Mallory TAPE 17: Approximately 1.75 hours Striker Clock-a complete study and anal­ SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee goes through TAPES 35 & 36: Approximately 2 hours each ysis of the Birge & Mallory Striker and the the process of making a knurled nut, one SUBJECT MATTER: Two tapes which clock with its strap plates and roller pinions, like those used as hand nuts in Early Amer­ demonstrate the use of the lathe accessories circa 1841. ican kitchen clocks. He demonstrates a produced in the Series 30-34. This en­ simple way to knurl the nut. compasses all facets of pivot work encoun­ TAPE 8: Approximately 2 hours tered in the clock shop. SUBJECT MATTER: Making a great wheel TAPE 18: Approximately 1.75 hours and mounting the great wheel on its arbor. SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee demon­ TAPE 37: Approximately 2 hours strates the process of inserting a tooth SUBJECT MATTER: A companion tape TAPE 9: Approximately 1.75 hours into a clock wheel to replace a broken or to the Huckabee book "How to Build a SUBJECT MATTER: Making and fitting a damaged tooth. Regulator Clock." Al I components and replacement pinion for a clock wh,eel. details for their construction are discussed in detail. It is recommended that the viewer TAPE 19: Approximately 2 hours have the book at hand when viewing this TAPE 10: Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot work in the tape. SUBJECT MATTER: Correcting problems American antique Sessions, count wheel, caused by an elongated pivot hole by bush­ and clock movement. ing with a solid bushing and the use of a "preacher" to relocate center distance. TAPE 20: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 11: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Continuation of work SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee discusses with the Sessions clock used in Tape 19. A DETAILED DESCRIPTION the I BM #37 Master Clock Movement and Complete restoration work on the move­ OF EACH TAPE IS AVAILABLE IBM 90 Series Clock Movement. ment and treating a worn great wheel. FROM AWi CENTRAL. January 1991 /Horological Times 5 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

JOHNSON OF LIVERPOOL

Enclosed are two photos of a is: Johnson Liverpool #33383. timepiece belonging to one of Tinh Chi Truong Q our customers. He would like Lawrence, KS as much information as possible. The name of the manufacturer, the year it I have examined the photos of was made, and any other information your watch and I am familiar that may be interesting or helpful will A with these types. It is a standard be appreciated. English-made watch, produced by the The case is multicolored gold. Lancashire Watch Co. about 1850. The engraving on the inside of the case I could have told you the exact year or at least when the case was made had you given me the logos that are stamped on the inside back cover ofyour case. These are hallmarks which give the locale, year, and case content. Johnson of Liverpool was an active exporter of such watches during the first half of the 19th century. He had a brisk business exporting to the United States. There are about six or more Johnsons of Liverpool listed in my records. Unfortunately, the initial on your movement has been washed out by the case back. I think it is Joseph John­ son, as he was most popular and he conducted his business at 25 Church Street in Liverpool. I have examined the photocopy of your watch and I am familiar A with these. The watch is Swiss Enclosed is a drawing and a made, locality of LeLocle, Switzerland, photocopy of a lady's pendant near Neuchatel and the French border. Q watch. Could you please tell LeLocle at that time was a growing me a little about this watch company and part of the Swiss industry. perhaps the approximate year and place The name Savoye, Savoie, etc. of manufacture? is listed among my notations in my records. I have examined two other Case F & F such watches by this maker. As this one, the dates should be close to 1830- \Y 1840. The hallmarks you sketched are ~ ~ very unclear and I cannot make out 2464 details of this. Rubbings would have been 2 better. I have a complete set of volumes Savoye & Son of hallmarks, but no country in my Anchor Escapement records are close to those you sketch. Hands @ N2464 ~ Having good drawings or rubbings, I might be able to tell you a closer date Three Ruby Pallets of manufacture as well as the locality in Ten- Holes Jewelled which at least the case was made. Jeff Plantz Henry B. Fried Madison, WI

6 Horological Times/January 1991 World's Strongest .llttrel SPRING BAR The BOREL 100% Stainless Steel Spring Bar is the world's strongest spring bar. It guarantees peace of mind three ways: •The body and tips are far stronger than others. Very important on the new thin styles. •The spring is heavy duty, exerting far more holding pressure. 100% e rt keeps its strength because it is immune to corrosion. STAINLESS DOUBLE SHOULDER The Borel Spring Bar System No. 267 features 40 dozen STEEL 114 <:::> Borel Stainless Steel Spring Bars in four types: Double 5/16 c:::::> Shoulder, Double Flange, Thin and Special (for buckles 318 .. .. in metal bands). They're put up in a professional cabinet 7116 ~ •• with 24 jumbo size bottles. An intregrated chart gives 1/2 •t ~ full description of contents, p1us bottle position. 9/16 ~ I• 5/8 .., You'll find a Spring Bar in this assortment for nearly 11116 --r "'" every need. Greater quantity is supplied of most •• 314 popular sizes: 5/a", 1V1s", 3/4". 13116 :;::::: === 718

Spring Bar Asst. 267/40 DOUBLE FLANGE 518 44:i=c:!!!!!!!!:S** 11 /16 ...e::::!!:S• New Ultra·Thin Stainless Steel 3/4 C:::!!=9* 13116 cS:e=:!!::=SSI SPRING BAR 7 /8 ca:t!!~:=!=:::S:ISI THIN1 .5mm These spring bars are used in many 112 m::e~s:si new watches where band fits close to 9/ 1~ =- •. ULTRA-THIN 5/8 ==l!!!!!!!!!!!!!S::s> STAINLESS STEEL the case. This assortment contains 66 bars, 6 each of 11 sizes, in a 11I1 6 :s:l!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!iaz>- 3/4 ::s:e!!!!!!!!~:ll> 1/4 -=:=P small partitioned plastic box. 13/16 ~~~ll=Si 5/16 ~ Replaces many of the Seiko ~ 7/8 ~~~~XI type spring bars. Refills available. 3/8 ~ SPECIAL BUCKLE No. 20 7/16 -<===>- MK-800/66 s11.95 5J8 Cl =-o 1/2 9116 - - - NOW... YOUCANALWAYSHAVETHE 518 - ,..,_ RIGHT "CURVED" SPRING BAR, TOO! - Just use the BOREL-TEC Spring Bar Curving Gun. 11116 Curving Gun, Pick out the right straight Borel spring bar, place __,; - only .. . it in the curving gun and pull the trigger. You're 314 - - SBCG .... S19.95 in business. No need to stock curved spring bars. 13116 Order the BOREL-TEC Spring Bar Curving Gun 718 - - and the Borel #267 Stainless Steel Spring Bar - - BEFORE Assortment, as described above. A $74.95 value. ~ And pay only S69.95

Jules Borel & Company, National Order Desk - 1 ·800-333-4646 1110 Grand Ave., Kansas City, Mo. 64106 Borel & Frei, National Order Desk - 1 ·800-654·9591 .llttrel 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .llttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, National Order Desk - 1·800·772·3456 P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 .. r>enc.h Tips

Joe Crooks I I TO SEE OR NOT TO SEE

This month's tip is from Gene Nicholson of Williamsburg, KY.

his tip is for all the watchmakers that must wear T glasses and get tired of wearing the Optivisor. I had a pair of glasses made with my regular prescription in the bottom and a 3.5 power magnifying bifocal put in the top to delete wearing the visor. It works great! T his can also be used with the eye loupe attachment on the glass frame for closer magnification of hairspring work, staffing, etc. A visor is sort of like a mule with blinders on-not For the lucky people who do not wear glasses and much side vision. The visor is hot in the summertime, too. have 20/20 vision, a pair could be made with clear glass in From Gene 's tip I take it he is not vet ready for the bottom and the 3.5 magnification in the top. bifocal glasses. When you can't focus a foot from your nose you need bifocals. Then your troubles reallv begin-trying to keep the watch on vour bench in the movement holder in focus with a 3 power loupe and at the same time pick up the parts on the bench in focus. Your head is going back and NO MAGIC forth like a hen pecking corn. This is the stage in life when you reverse Gene's tip. You now need your work glasses prescribed to fit vour needs while working on watches with bifocals. Have a friend measure the distance from your glasses to the top of your bench while vou are focusing on a watch with a 3 power loupe. That's TRICKS! the distance for the bifocal on the work glasses. ft will figure out about 120mm focus for the bifocal and +2 for the lens of the glasses. Don't worry about the cost. You can take it off on your income tax. Be sure to give your optometrist the JUST FAST, DEPENDABLE SERVICE focus distance in metric, not inches.

FOR ALL OF YOUR WATCH PARTS AND TOOL NEEDS PLUS Custom Crystal Fitting : Pnrts Sample Matching .\foyement Identification • Dial Refinishing • Old Parts A'11ilability • Same Duy Rush Shipping

GIVE US A TRY!! DAVIS SUPPLY 333 W. CHURCH AVENUE, S.W. - P.O. BOX 1140 ROANOKE, VIRGINIA 24006 SEND YOUR TIPS TO: Jingle Joe, AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 . FOR INFORMATION: (703) 345-8040 ORDER: (800) 533-6293 IN VIRGINIA: (800) 533-1523 FAX: (703) 344-5153

8 Horological Times/Januarv 1991 QUARTZ WATCH MOVEMENTS KEY TEST FE 6820 y 481 2020/30 Y121/120 5: 11x6 31~ 6~~x8 6Xix8 6'1.x8 FOR 3 50mm 3.00mm 2.90mm 2.99mm QUARTZ WATCHES sass s5ss

The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" ESA 927.002 ESA 578.004 3N20 Y480 5~'2x6% 5Vix6% 5112x6J/,. 6~~x8 by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple 2.95mm 2,50mm 2.50mm 3.00mm method of locating the problem in a quartz $gss sggs s72s analog movement. The only tool required is a meter. FE 6320 ESA 956.114 HAR LEY 3572 2Y51 6'1.x8 7% rnund 5Y2x6J,1.,. 51hx6:X. Material and instructions for learning this test 3.60mm 2. 50mm 2.70mm 2.56mm is supplied by the AWi-ELM Trust as part of s159s their educational work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning this in a group setting. Clasp for Seiko and Pulsar Bands However, for individuals who may not be able Easily ciamp anrn mesn COLOR: YELLOW/STAINLESS STEEL to participate in a group, it is available to them wa~ch bands. Ld's Size: 5,5mm, 6 .0mm, 7,0mm, also. .. ..,.. . 8 Omm, 9.0mm, 10.0mm . ,,,; i Men's Size: 15.0mm. 16.0mm For more information call or write to the AWi office for an information sheet and application \. \.~ •.. Comes complete with center clasp. ~'""' clamp, safety chain. form. SPECIAL!!!! SALE $2.95 EACH 16 PC Assortment (8 Yellow and 8 S.S.)- #CL 16 . $45.00 32 PC Assortment (16 Yellow and 16 S.S.)- #CL32 .. $80.00 SEIKO TYPE CENTER CATCH COMPLETE CRYSTAL FITTING SERVICE G.S. - B.B. PERFIT - GENUINE WATCH MATERIAL Rolex-Seiko-Pulsar-Lorus-Citizen Longines-Witt. - Bulova-Ebauche-Bestfit TOOLS & EQUIPMENT *Ladies 28 PC Assortment (2 PC ea. size & colors)-#CC28 .. . $59 Vigor-Grobet-Dixon-H & R *Gents 18 PC Assortment (1 PC ea. size & colors)-#CC18 . .. $65 GENTS SIZES

Foredom-Kerr ,3 fill Y • W DOU.BLE 54 ..]2 STOCKi .6 MM Y & W DOUBLE S4.15 EVEREADY WATCH CELLS • 0 MM Y & W DDI.lBL S.:i 75 0. 5Mt1 Y o W .DOU.BLE $4 . 7S KREISLER BANDS CA 350 ll.OK~ Y' W DOUBLE S~.75 ~ ll.BMM Y & W DOUBLE S~.7S JEWELRY FINDINGS CA 365 l3.3MM ~ • W Sn.GLE S4.50 CA 231 . 0 MM Y & W SINGLE S2.7S: CA 380 5.0MM Y & W SINGhE SLSO. JEWELRY BOXES/DISPLAYS CA 241 .0 MM Y & W SINGLE $2.75 Ch 190 6,0MM Y & W SINGLE $4.50 YOUNG-NEAL COMPANY, Inc. 1-800-441-1042 ORDERS: (800) 251-8580 $10 .00 Minimum SONG'S TRADING & INFORMATION SUPPLY COMPANY (615) 889-0060 1838 Elm Hill Pike Suite 116 Information & Inquiries: (213) 622-3966 We accept M/C & VISA. Nashville, TN 37210 Fax: (213) 622-3018 404 W. 7th St., Suite 203, Los Angeles, CA 90014

January 1991 /Horological Times 9 Old JVatches

Charles Cleves

Pens vs. Watches

ome of the hottest items being sold and traded at the the exact value of most of the watches. In the beginning, how­ S watch shows these days are fountain pens. This hap­ ever, this wasn't the case. Watch prices changed so fast and so pens under the table and in the lobbies because the NAWCC drastically that it was more exciting and challenging. Now the (National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors) does not only major change in pricing seems to be downward. The main permit anything that is not horological to be shown in the ingredient that is missing is the excitement. That's why foun­ mart rooms. Watches are still selling well even though the tain pens are taking off so well. There seems to be many paral­ prices have been scaled back a little bit. Dealers are becoming lels between the watch market in 1980 and the fountain pen bored with buying and selling the same old thing. The watch market in 1991. market has matured so much that most of the dealers know

'I Figure 6 Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

10 Horological Times/January 1991 I remember back in 1980 when I had just purchased a Many of the expensive pens are one of a kind and I large collection of watches from Henry Doepke of the Gruen have no pictures of those to share with you. Here are a few Watch Co. It included four Patek Philippe wristwatches. I pictures of some better pens in the $5000 and up range: asked the advice of several seasoned watch dealers as to what I Figure 1: Parker No. 59 sterling silver or gold-filled should keep and what I should sell. They were all in agreement. Aztec Indian design "Awanyu." Unfortunately, I listened to them and sold all four Patek wrist­ Figure 2: Parker No. 58 gold-filled Aztec Indian de- watches at what they considered ridiculous prices. At this sign "Awanyu." time I received $1450 for an unusual curved platinum (1920s), Figure 3: Parker No. 46 corrugated pearl barrel. fully signed, Patek men's wristwatch. A couple years later it Figure 4: Parker No. 52 sterling silver Swastika design. traded hands for $7000, and within a seven-year period it Figure 5: Parker No. 53 18K solid gold Swastika de- reached $20,000. The reason I was told to sell the Pateks was sign. that they were already too high and they had nowhere to go Figure 6: Parker No. 39 forget-me-nots with tur­ but down. quoise stones set in the flowers. I recently purchased a fountain pen for $6000. Once again I sought advice, but this time it was from the seasoned pen collectors. The advice they are giving me now is the same as I received from watch collectors 10 years ago: Sell it as soon as you are offered a profit because you paid too much money CAREERS for the 90's and the market is at an all-time high. Do you think for a minute that I'm going to listen to them this time around? -and beyond In 1980 the most valuable wristwatches being sold were in the 10 to 20 thousand dollar range. In 1990 the most Watchmaking Engraving expensive fountain pens were being sold in this same range. Many new collectors and dealers are coming into the field Clock Repair Jewelry every day. Now-10 years later-in the watch market these same watches that were selling for 10 to 20 thousand are bring­ ing 100 to 200 thousand dollars. What will these pens be GEM CITY COLLEGE 700 State Street Quincy, IL 62301 217-222-0391 worth 10 years down the road? Both items can be used daily FINANCIAL AID GRANTS, LOANS by the collectors. It's not like coins or stamps. PLACEMENT ASSISTANCE FOR GRADUATES

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January 1991/Horological Times 11 WATCHE~

Robert D. Porter, CMW

How to Make and Fit a Case Tube

nee in a while we won't have a A cutting broach is being used in depth a little longer than the case tube 0 case tube in our assortment that Figure 3 to remove that part of the tube needed to be. will fit or that can be modified to fit a that was left in the case. The outside diameter of the rod particular watch case and crown. In order An electronic caliper is being was reduced as pictured in Figure 8 un­ to keep a good customer and to get the used in Figure 4 to measure the size of til the replacement crown fit properly, job out on time we must sometimes make the hole in the watch case. Figure 5 is a making sure that the gasket in the crown and fit a new case tube. sketch of how the case tube should fit. fit tightly enough against the tube to as­ Figure I shows a quartz watch A hobby shop was the source for sure a safe seal. The graver is shown case that had a missing crown and a cor­ the brass rod shown in Figure 6. The rod grooving the tube to mark the cut-off roded case tube. has been centered with a carbide graver position. Figure 2 illustrates the use of a and is about to be drilled with the drill The crown was removed and the twist drill to determine the internal we used in Figure 2. Figure 7 shows the drill was then moved back into position diameter of the old case tube. drill at work. The hole was drilled to a to prevent the loss of the tube. The graver

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 6

12 Horological Times/January 1991 ·Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9

Figure 10 Figure 11 Figure 12 was then used to cut the tube off as il­ collet. Figure 10 shows the use of an out­ was then turned on the tube until the lustrated in Figure 9. side micrometer to measure the end of case was a snug fit up to about two-thirds The tube was reversed in the the tube as it was turned to a diameter the length of the tube as pictured in Fig­ lathe with that part of the tube that was slightly larger than the measurement we ure 11. to fit into the case sticking out from the obtained in Figure 4. A very slight taper Case tube pliers are being used (Please turn to page 15)

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January 1991 /Horological Times 13 By J.M. Huckabee CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC, FBHI AoDtd...

THE BROACH and BROKEN MAINSPRINGS & LOOSE WARNING PINS

0. Please give a description on the proper use of improperly fitted, but in all probability you may have done the clockmaker's pivot broach. How do you use them and nothing wrong. what is the best type? I'm more uneasy over a new barreled mainspring than any other subject in clockmaking. If the spring is fully wound A. Let me answer the question with how I use the and breaks near the inside end, it can strip barrel teeth, bulge broach; I'm not certain that it could be called proper. the barrel, break train wheel pinions and arbors, strip train We have two types of broaches-namely the cutting wheels, etc. It can instantly destroy a very fine clock! and smoothing. The cutting type, usually five-sided, is to My worst case of a broken spring occurred in the remove material, possibly better described as a reamer. The early 1960s. The little time-only clock had a stripped wheel, smoothing is for burnishing or polishing. In clockmaker's bent arbor, and broken spring. The new spring was of the form, these are tapered and may have a small knurled handle "best quality" type and the movement repaired. Next morning or a tang that requires a separate handle. I like the knurled the clock was dead. It had a broken spring, stripped barrel, handle best. broken second wheel pinion, and two broken pivots. Now The purpose of the broach is to enlarge and finish that's good reason for an old clockmaker to cry! a hole, pivot hole by example, to a predetermined size. We One of Henry Paulsen's books in the 1940s dealt usually broach and polish a pivot hole to a trial fit with its with this in watches. This was before the days of our fine companion pivot. watch mainsprings. He recommended placing the spring in A pivot hole is broached alternately from each end the barrel and winding it up and down at least 1 O times to produce an hourglass-shaped bore, then burnished in a before placing it in the watch. similar way. Burnishing work hardens the bearing and polishes Now, I've never had a clock spring break in the its surface with very little enlargement of the bore diameter. winder, but a few up and down cycles may be worth the Broaching requires extreme care to keep the hole up­ effort. right to the plate. You should frequently observe the square­ I wish we could assess the probability of spring break­ ness from several angles as the work progresses. age, but that is one of the factors of the trade over which Broaching may raise up a small burr at the entrance we have very little control. and exit of the hole. This should be carefully removed with a chamfering tool. Also beware that the chamfering tool may also leave a burr. 0. Why does the stop pin in the warning wheel of Most n?wly installed pivot bushings will need the an American antique clock repeatedly come loose? pivot hole broached to final size. The broach is an important tool to the clockmaker. A. I suspect the riveted pin does not fit the hole Tapered broaches come in assortments of overlapping in the wheel perfectly. My method of replacement is to use sizes. These are usually stated in Stubbs Steel Wire Gauge, a slightly larger pin, lathe turn a small tenon that is a tight but sometimes in metric or English measurements. Most fit to the hole, and upset its end. pivots in old American clocks range between one and two It is possible that there is a cause other than the pin millimeters diameter; that approximately equals 40 to 80 and wheel pieces. A fly that is too tight on its arbor brings thousandths of an inch. The Stubbs size for the same pivots great stress on the stop pin. This condition is usually asso­ is approximately #60 to #46, and the equivalent drill number ciated with a badly worn fly pinion and pivots and holes. is likewise about 60 to 46. Fly tension should be just sufficient to prevent slippage during Larger broaches may be used as reamers for clock its run time. plate bushings, but I have found sizes larger than about the Another item to check is to see that the stop finger Stubbs 30 to be of very infrequent use. Of course, smaller is near the warning wheel rather than engaging the stop pin out clocks will need broaches down to about one-quarter milli­ near its tip. meter or Stubbs #80. The broach is one of the most frequently used tools.

0. A recently repaired clock broke a new barreled If you have a subject that you would like J.M. Huckabee mainspring the first day! What did I do wrong? to address in a future article, send it to "Ask Huck," c/o Horological Times, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH A. Possibly the spring was scratched, kinked, or 45211.

14 Horological Times/January 1991 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT (Continued from page 13) in Figure 12 to press the tube into the case. A solder with a low melting point such as the Tic brand will secure the pipe to the case and prevent it from coming loose or leaking. Just a small amount of solder is sufficient. Figure 13 shows the new case tube in place. A new stem and crown as­ sembly was then fitted to the movement. The grease shown in Figures 14 and 15 Figure 13 Figure 15 was used to pack the inside of the tube around the threaded part of the stem near the crown as an additional barrier; and, to lubricate the outside of the case tube as well. I used this product while repair­ ing my shower control valve and decided to try it on case tubes and gaskets. I haven't had any problems with it to date. Figure 16 shows the movement in the case. Custom-made case tubes can be used to our economic advantage when commercially made ones are not readily Figure 16 available. Figure 14

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January 1991/Horo/ogica/ Times 15 By John Plewes ©1991 CLOCKS 11tiAide s Out! All rights reserved by the author.

RESTORING CLOCK CASES PART2 Figures 2 and 4 referred to in this article can be found in the December 1990 issue on pages 18 and 19.

LONGCASE BRASSWEAR VENEER Being an external surface covering, veneer tends to rass case trimmings, such as waist pillar capitals receive any knocks, dents, and scratches to which the clock Band pillar flute rods, are found chiefly in the older is subject, and as a result, small pieces sometimes break off. clocks which have brass dials. White dial clock brasses usually The veneer on longcase clocks can be 0.12 inch or more in consist of only the hood pillar capitals, the waist door hinges, thickness, which is much thicker than modern veneers and and perhaps a hood doorknob. Whatever brasses are present, many old veneers also. All pieces of loose veneer should be they should all be removed and cleaned, polished, and lac­ retained when they fall off the case; it is best to clean up both quered separately. Never apply metal polish to brasses on the the piece and its seating and to replace it without too much case, for it will only result in an unsavory build-up of verdigris. delay, using brown glue. If this is done carefully, there is no need for sanding or other patina-destroying levelling which would make the repair more obvious. Figure 5 If there are pieces missing, then the seatings must MISSING VENEER be cleaned up and new pieces of the same wood cut out and fitted. This often entails cutting off ragged edges to form straight mating edges which can more easily match those of A the new insert. Always try to pick a piece of veneer which has the same grain pattern as the original. Figure 5 shows a typical example of missing veneer, ABD, which may occur at the corner of an American ogee or at the corner of the base of a longcase. The jagged line, BD, is too difficult to match, so cut the veneer along the dotted D c line, BC, and remove the area BCD . Now remove all rem­ nants of old dried-up glue from the area ABCD and cut a new piece of identical wood to the same size and shape. The thickness and grain direction must match those of the original wood. In the example shown in Figure 5, the grain almost always runs parallel to BC, which unfortunately makes the corner at A somewhat fragile. Cut and try the new insert until it fits snugly, and then set it in place with brown glue and remove any excess. Lay a small piece of cardboard on top, followed by a small block of smooth pine, and clamp it all together. Allow several hours for the glue to set. The cardboard, or something similar, stops the block from sticking to the veneer which could cause damage on removal. The remains of the cardboard and any surplus glue are easily removed with a damp rag. DIRECTION OF Figure 6 shows how to repair veneer which is bent WOOD GRAIN around a curve, a configuration which is often featured on school and shelf clocks. The area PRSU in Figure 6(a) repre­ .. sents missing veneer. The ragged edges must be trimmed out . to the lines PO and VT to enable a new insert of veneer to be

16 Horological Times/January 1991 fitted. As the grain of the veneer is parallel to PO, the edges tend to lift somewhat and are then easily damaged. The bend radius is relatively small, so it is essential to cut the insert to size and pre-bend it. This is done by using very hot water and carefully rolling the wet insert around a piece of dowel or metal rod and binding it in place until it dries out. The radius of the dowel must be a little less than that of the job because the insert will relax slightly when taken off the dowel. It is best to repair small sections at a time, binding each of them to the dowel with masking tape, etc. The joints at PO and VT are not hard to hide, as they lie with the grain, but if the distance PV is longer than an inch or so, there is a good chance of cracks developing during the bending process. In some instances it may be possible to hold the insert to the job with masking tape until the glue dries, but better results are obtained by_using clamps and a small block with a smooth channel in it, as shown in Figure 6(b). The channel is chiselled out of a small pine block and smoothed 381 .46 with sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel of appro­ m:~·~· .';··'#· ~JJt~::~ ;:r~~ ···> .. ~xdfJ: ifi.Wf~~ · ~m~\t ;~S- ;~i.~ ~J~f:li:~; priate diameter. The channel must be a good fit onto the job, 319 .49 386 .49 or the veneer will glue down unevenly allowing gaps to form. ·{·,/-~l When the glue has set up and the clamps have been 323 taken off, sand the new insert lightly until it is level with the original. Chisel off any excess and sand the edges smooth. ->t~ ; :. ;::: %r:Q*X$.$tr:: , _ This should be done without delay as projecting veneer invites .93 392 ; 4 :~ -: '::; ''. ;S:t,W~<:. accidental damage. Finishing will be dealt with later on. ·; .91 394 __; ~* ; SCHOOL CLOCKS .69 School clocks and other wall clocks often exhibit , ~' .79 loose segments in their octagonal tops and wooden bezels; the glue powders away and the individual pieces separate. The remedy is to take out each loose piece, file and scrape off all the old glue, and put them together again using brown glue and clamps. Make absolutely sure that the octagon or bezel is set up flat, for with so many glued joints a warp can be very troublesome to correct. Figure 7 shows a warped segment, LM, of a round wooden bezel, KM. It is not desirable to use saw cuts as in ABOVE REPRESENTS ONLY PARTIAL BATTERY LISTING. Figure 2, because they would show on both sides of the seg­ FREE c;:OMPLETE BATTERY PRICE UST AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST. ment; however, drilling a series of fairly large holes will solve Battery Startup Kit the problem very tidily. The holes must be quite close to­ gether so that the wood is uniformly weakened. Pour hot t/ 260 Assorted Popular Batteries water into them and allow it to soak into the wood for about v 50 Drawer Battery Cabinet ~ 20 minutes. When the segment is relatively amenable, it can t/AWi Cross-Reference Book ~ vBBttery Tester be clamped between two birch boards, preferably in a some­ t/ Battery Replacement Instruction Sheet what overstressed position. This can be achieved by means of small, well-placed pieces of wood, but twisting must be avoided. When dry, the wood is glued and clamped back in its correct position. Brown glue can be thinned with water, so any residual moisture will not give trouble; it will simply take longer to set. As with saw cuts, the use of holes and hot water enables straightening without refinishing.

VIENNA AND GERMAN WALL CLOCKS These cases typically consist of a fairly solid top and base joined together by a backboard and two slim picture frame sides. The glazed door constitutes a third picture frame. The whole assembly is far from strong. There is so little wood .January 1991 /Horological Times 17 in the side frames that, should they loosen, there is no real taken apart completely to repair them. Glue blocks may be purchase for a screw or a nail. Aside from the back, only added to strengthen the joints, but brass brackets screwed the front members of the side frames hold the top and base to the sides at the top and bottom offer the best support. together, the glasses being too loose to provide any rigidity. Being inside the case, they are seen only when the door is When their weak joints loosen, these cases often have to be opened and are unobtrusive even then; they should be made of

Figure 6 NEW VENEER

P -- --- a

R CHANNEL BLOCK CLAMP

s u T

(a) (b)

Figure 7

SEGMENT OF ROUND BEZEL

K L -- LEVEL I I I I I I I CCDI I,..,.. I I, .... I !

18 Horological Times/January 1991 0.06 inch thick brass, about % inch wide and 3% inches long. filled with glued strips, can be used to take out twists, and Two screws hold 3 inches of the bracket to the side, and the a series of holes (see Figure 7) can be used to straighten a remaining half inch, bent at 90 degrees, is screwed to the base curve. If hot water alone is used, the door will have to be or top. refinished, and the warp may return later, for there is nothing Although the use of metal brackets may be frowned to keep such frames straight and true. upon in certain circles, it is essential to strengthen the front A curved door frame may have created a set in the members, particularly as one of them has the additional glass, and by reversing the glass this set can be used, within duty of supporting a rather heavy door. In this type of clock limits, to oppose any tendency which the straightened frame the case size varies considerably, but the same small, weak may have to return to its curve. It is a good policy to slightly hinges seem to be used on all of them. These hinges should overcorrect all warps, and the reversed glass generally fits in be checked periodically as they sometimes bind; this imparts a quite well. The idea is that the wood will still possess enough continuing back and forth motion to the front member, and so strength to overcome the overcorrection and will finally slowly loosens it. It is a good idea to replace such hinges with stabilize when straight. This small movement will be opposed larger ones. by the glass, but it usually occurs slowly enough to allow the Due to a lack of case rigidity, the glazed doors of glass to accommodate. these clocks usually bind against the top or the base, and so When the case is ready for finishing, try the move­ are difficult to open and close. Owing to variations in hu­ ment in it and check that the glass of the closed door does not midity, temperature, and the general looseness, a fairly gen­ touch the minute hand or its arbor, as even a light pressure erous clearance must be provided. Sanding is inadequate and can stop the clock. This is often overlooked. planing can easily take slivers out of the capitals o'r blocks of the door pillars, so it is best to feed the top and bottom of the "Restoring Clock Cases" will continue next month. door very slowly across a hollow-ground veneer cutting blade on a table saw. A cut of about 0.05 inch generally proves to be sufficient. Warps and twists in these flimsy cases are not easy to remove. Angled saw cuts in the door frame (see Figure 4),

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January 1991 /Horological Times 19 ~ILTTARY TI~E

Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI MARINE CLOCK E. Howard &Co., Boston

t the age of 16, Edward Howard (1813-1904) entered Mr. Howard's reputation as a manufacturer of fine Ainto a five-year apprenticeship with Aaron Willard, Jr., clocks, watches, and tools was beyond reproach. He retired in son of Aaron Willard, and the youngest of the four famous 1882, and sold his interest in the watch/clock company for a clockmaking brothers. After completing his apprenticeship, he sizable sum. However, due to several unfortunate investments, went to work for Henry Plympton who made a line of very he ended up penniless. fine balance scales. Soon, Howard established himself as a very During Howard's lifetime, the company operated un­ reputable scalemaker, and in 1840 he established his own der several different titles. In 1858 it was known as the E. clock and scalemaking business. In 1842, his place of business Howard & Company, and in 1881 as the E. Howard Watch and was located at 15 Hawley Street, Boston. Clock Company. In 1903 the watch division was sold to the Later, when Congress decreed that postage would be Keystone Watch Case Company, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. determined by weight rather than bulk and grade of matter, Consequently, the E. Howard Watch and Clock Company be­ and bids were advertised, Howard produced five different came the E. Howard Clock Company. Shortly thereafter, the models of scales. He delivered them in person to Washington. business failed and was placed in receivership until 1910, when Once all bids were reviewed, the U.S. Post Office awarded a new company was organized under the same name. The Howard a contract for 40,000 letter scales. He continued to trademark of the company was: "E. Howard & Company, Bos­ make scales for the government for 20 years. ton." Howard was well known as a designer and inventor, All of Howard's movements were very well made. The and toyed with the idea of building locomotives and sewing wheels were cut from hard-rolled clock brass; the arbors and machines. About 1850, he and his partner, David P. Davis, pinions were cut from bar steel, tempered and highly polished. built and advertised fire engines. The 1851 Boston City Direc­ The plates were especially thick, affording good bearings for tory carried an advertisement which read: "Howard & Davis, all pivots. The plates were nickel-plated and often damascened. Manufacturers of Fire Engines, Clocks, and Balances ... 34th Dials were usually enameled on zinc, while others were silvered. Water Street, near Congress Street, Boston." The first clocks, known as marine clocks, made their

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

20 Horological Times/January 7997 MINERAL CRYSTAL ASSORTMENTS Two new popular mineral watch crystal assortments at special introductory prices. All crystals are .9mm thick, strength tempered with polished edges. Each crystal is supplied in see-thru poly bag marked with the correct size. Partitioned plastic box with hinged lid

Figure 4. Dial side view, E. Howard & Co., Boston, mvt. No. 00405, has plenty of room for expansion of your with dial train removed. Escapement mounted on a detachable plat­ form screwed to the pillar plate. Note the rack type regulator. assortment. A full range of sizes and refills are always available. appearance about 1860. Most of them were exact replicas of the various manufacturers' locomotive clocks. The earliest record of a clock being placed in a locomotive cab is 1850, as 30 PIECE ASSORTMENT documented by the Railway and Locomotive Historical So­ 30 different sizes range from 185 to 330 and at ciety. Cases for these clocks were made of cast brass by vari­ the starter rate of less than $1 .1 O per crystal. ous valve and gauge companies, thus clock and steam-gauge Supplied in clear plastic partitioned box with cases "matched." Early clock companies' advertisements of­ plenty of room for the addition of other sizes. ten carried such statements as "Made for Ships, Steamers, ONLY $32.50 per assortment. Yachts, Locomotives, Engine Rooms, or other places where pendulum clocks cannot be used on account of vibrations." 099032 ...... $32.50 The Howard Model No. 69 marine/locomotive clocks were housed in heavy brass, bronze, or nickel-plated cases (see 60 PIECE ASSORTMENT Figure 1). The overall thickness of the flanged case was 2-7 /8 60 different sizes ranging from 150 to 330 with inches and was fitted with a hinged bezel and a lock. The Ro­ a broad selection in the most popular areas. man numeral dials measured 471, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches in Supplied in plastic partitioned box with hinged diameter. The 4~ , 6, and 8-inch dial had porcelain-finished dials, while the 10 and 12-inch were silvered. Those I saw be­ lid. Complete assortment is only $65.00 - fore and during the early months of World War II which were that's less than $1_1 O per crystal. returned to the Naval Observatory for overhaul had 10 and 12- 099033 ·············································· $65.00 inch dials. The Navy referred to them as engine room clocks. The numerals, minute and second graduations and REFILLS ARE $2.00 each, $5.40 per 1/4 hands were painted black. On some models, the second orbit dozen, $19.50 dozen. was located above the 6 o'clock position and the winding key­ hole was near the numeral III, while on others the second or­ bit was located below the numeral XII and the keyhole was above the numeral VI. S. (ffai[J~Inc. The plates were made of heavy brass, nickel-plated, Worldwide Distributors to Horologists and as noted above, some were highly damascened. On some movements, a stop-works was mounted on the barrel cap. The '~ S , IJ;/z!?'/ 11-jewel escapement was mounted on a detachable platform 234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208 with a rack-type regulator which was indexed from the front Greensboro, N.C., 27420, U.S.A. of the dial with a key (Figure 4). Phone (919) 275-0462 This movement, No. 00405, was last overhauled at FAX Number 1-800-537-4513 the U.S . Naval Observatory on April 16, 1936. ULil3

January 1991 /Horological Times 21 ULL·ETI OARD KUEMPEL CHIME CLOCK CORP. - GREAT BRITAIN EDITOR'S NOTE: Clyde K. Fisk, Middlesex, NJ, was good enough to send a Due to the end of the year holidays, the due date for the sketch of the clock .he has. We forwarded it to Karl Rapp, "Bulletin Board" and all other articles for the HT was ad­ Pennsburg, PA. vanced. This allowed little time for the mail to clear with correspondence from the November "Bulletin Board" column. This January column then will be abbreviated in C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED size.

E. RIVETT LATHE Francis Barrett, Franklin, MA, is looking for a manual for A. NEW REQUESTS an old watchmaker's lathe. The manufacturer was E. Rivett, KNIFE BLADE SEALER Faneuil Watch Tool Co., Boston, MA. We would welcome Andy Ohr, Wallingford, CT, would like to know what a copy of this manual so we can photocopy it for Mr. "Bulletin Board" readers have found best to use when Barrett and for the AWI technical files. sealing a knife blade into a silver handle. In years past, a type of resin was used that could be heated and allow for OIL STONE POWDER easy removal of the blade from the handle. Frequently we are asked by members to name sources for oil stone powder. Oil stone powder used to be readily HUNTING CASES & SPRINGS available from material houses, but in recent years that Marshall Richmond, well known for his "Pickle Barrel" source seems to have disappeared. We would like to develop column in Horological Times, will be instructing a class a resource list for this powder and of suitable substitutes in Watch Case Repairing for Project Extend. In order to which produce equal or better results. provide practical repair experience, we would welcome the donation of hunting cases, complete or otherwise, and case WD-40 REMOVAL springs. Many ' old-timers" always had a supply of case Several have contributed to a method for removing WD-40 springs and tubing for case hinges on hand. If you have any from clock movements. The concensus for the best way to of these items that you can share with us, we would be remove WD-40 from a clock movement is to spray the grateful. The gift would be tax deductible. movement liberally with WD-40. It will soften the previous application which had hardened and become difficult to HAIRSPRINGS remove and will then expedite removal of both applica­ Harold Hem1an Technical Editor of Horological Times, will tions. be teaching a Project Extend course on hairspring vibrating an~ finishing. At one time Mr. Hem1an was a hairspring f11USher for the Gruen Watch Company at Time Hill in SWARTCHILD & CO. MATERIAL SYSTEM Cincinnati, Ohio. A previous request for hairsprings for Robert Mohr, Manhattan, KS, is seeking a photocopy or instructional purposes brought in enough for several classes. original of the catalog page which identifies a single drawer You can insure future classes by donating any hairsprings American staff and jewels assortment #M20AB. This assort­ or assortments you might have. Again, the gift ls tax ment was marketed by Swartchild & Co. deductible.

B. RESPONSES DO YOU HAVE INFORMATION REGARDING NEWALL SLEEVE ASSORTMENT THIS MONTH'S REQUESTS? We continue to receive copies of the Newall sleeve assort­ ment #379 chart as well as several other charts. One DO YOU NEED INFORMATION respondent revealed that he paid $12.25 for the entire ABOUT ONE OF THIS MONTH'S RESPONSES? assortment when he purchased it. Oh well, at that time we used to pay 27 cents a gallon for gasoline, too. If so , send a self-addressed, stamped business-size envelope and your request to the address below: IMPREGNATED FIBER Earl Marshall, Devils Lake, ND, was good enough to offer BULLETIN BOARD to share a piece of this type of fiber with T.J. Goldsmith Horological Times of South Daytona, FL. Mr. Marshall has a limited supply 3700 Harrison Avenue having obtained it from a Link trainer used for training P.O. Box 11011 in a technical school. Cincinnati, OH 45211

22 Horological Times/January 1991 AWI Watch Testing MATERIAL SEARCH NETWORK EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the AWi Movement Bank. If you can Wonders Of The '90's .. supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the Material Search Network-do not send the items. Members requesting these items will be advised of their QUARTZ WATCH availability and will contact you direct. RATE TIMER Timoquartz TM4500 Please contact the AWi Movement Bank if you can supply any of the following items we are searching for. These items are not sought for donation; you will be compensated for them.

N-2 Record 19 ligne Cal. 435C ESCAPE WHEEL C/C, Best­ fit No. 702/193, Basic Cal. 431.

N-7 Hamilton 6/0 987F BALANCE COMPLETE F#2555A.

MECHANICAL WATCH & CLOCK RATE RECORDER If you can supply any of these items, please contact: AWi Ma­ Timoprlnt 4500 terial Search Network, AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, NO PAPER USED OH 45211; Fax: (513) 661-3131. Vibrograf's watch testing technology tops everything ...

·Only Vibrograf (the name you've come to trust for over 50 years), offers modular watch testing ATTENTION technology. Plus unique features designed espe­ cially for the professional watchmaker of the '90's. Watchmakers & Jewelers With the Vibrograf time testing team, you'll work faster, more efficiently, with greater accuracy than ever before. And, it's exciting equipment to use. CONOVER & QUAYLE, INC. Who says watch repair is dull, /ow-tech work? Besides the combination shown above, you can WILL BEAT ANY top off your system · ADVERTISED PRICE ON with a quartz analyzer J and an amplitude ~ VIGOR & BESTFIT meter for fine mech- ~ EQUIPMENT & SUPPLIES anical watches too. , ~ So start-up your system today, with one or _ a combination of units. Than auARTZWATCHANALVZER Muttimatar TT 4500 Call Now add machines as your needs, and budget permits. For more information, or the 1-800-448-7786 name of your local distributor contact: "For Over 50 Years - Quality Products, NY STATE 1 (212) 840-1606 Backed by Dependable Service." Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. REMEMBER ... ROLEX 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 MATERIAL OUR SPECIALTY. Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708

January 1991 /Horological Times 23 TecWATCHES ©1991

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author)

1991 Antique Watch Restoration ©

PART LXI FINISHING WINDING WHEELS

hen finishing crown and ratchet wheels, one can use a cloth. There should not be any metal embedded into the sur­ W grinding wheel such as a fine India wheel, or a lap face of the grinding wheel, and the edge of the grinding made of metal can also be used. When much needs to be wheel which does the grinding must run absolutely true. If removed from the face of the crown or ratchet wheel to make the surface of the grinding wheel becomes glazed or choked the surface flat, it would be better to use a grinding wheel to with metal, it will not produce a uniform raying or snailing grind the surface flat since a grinding wheel removes metal effect. If the surface of the grinding wheel does become faster than a lap does. If the grinding wheel has the proper clogged, it should be redressed with a diamond wheel dresser. grit size, the finish left by the grinding wheel may suffice for the final finish. Note: For the best results, the grinding wheel LAPS AND GRINDING MATERIALS should be kept clean and be lubricated often with an oily laps used for raying or snailing can be made from cast iron, copper, brass, or tin. The grinding compounds can be Arkansas oilstone paste, carborundum paste (silicon car­ bide), alumina paste (aluminum oxide), or diamond paste. The TABLE 1 carborundum (silicon carbide) paste can be bought in different CLOVER(R)SILICON CARBIDE GRINDING AND LAPPING COMPOUNDS grits already mixed in a Thixogenous-Grease mix™ under the

Grade -~rit Size Description brand name of CLOVER®. This compound comes in the dif­ ferent sizes that are shown in Table 1. Machine shop supply 6A 1000 Micro Fine houses usually stock this grinding and lapping compound. The SA 800 Micro Fine micro fine and extremely fine grits are the most suitable for 4A 600 Extremely Fine finishing winding wheels. Different grits of alumina (aluminum 3A 500 Extremely Fine oxide) are recommended for a super fine rayed or snailed finish. Different grits of diamond paste are excellent for using 2A 400 Extremely Fine on the lap when raying and snailing, although diamond paste lA 320 Very Fine is more expenisve than other materials. The old standby is a A 280 Fine paste made from crushed-up Arkansas stone powder mixed B 240 Medium Fine with oil to form a paste. Note: The grinding paste is spread

c 220 Medium uniformly over the face of the winding wheel when using a lap for raying or snailing. After the lap has been used and D 180 Medium Coarse becomes well charged with the grinding compound, then some NC 150 Special Navy. kerosene can be used on the face of the winding wheel to keep E 120 Coarse the lap lubricated.

F 100 Extra Coarse RA YING AND SNAILING G 80 Super Coarse Figure 1 shows a ratchet wheel being given a rayed J 50 Very Coarse finish. The ratchet wheel has been shellacked to the face of a cement brass. When this is done, the wheel should be made

24 Horological Times/January 7997 B ~ Figure 1 WITSCHI "-/'A SWISS BASED FIRM, ANNOUNCES THE UNIVERSAL INSTRUMENT For All Electrical Measurements & Tests on Quartz Watches THE Q TEST 6000!

FEATURES: 1 - Rate Measurement of All: Mechanical, Accutron, & Quartz Movements. 2 - Electrical Measurement of: Consumption, Resistance, to run true in the round as well as in the flat. A lap is being Battery Life, & Voltage. used to do the raying rather than a grinding wheel which was 3 - Additional Functions: Testing of Alarms, Parameter shown previously. This particular lap has a shaft so it can be Setting, a Module Power Supply from 0 to 3.5 Volts, chucked in a wire chuck. A lap could be mounted onto an Impulse Generation, EEPROM Programmability*, & a Printer*. arbor chuck as long as there is no washer or nut extending Amazingly with all these features out from the lap's face to interfere with its use. The lap could it is USER FRIENDLY! be fastened to the arbor chuck with a flat head screw which *Options seats down flush with the face of the lap. Another method of WITSCHI ELECTRONICS USA, Ltd. mounting the lap onto an arbor chuck is to cut a shoulder on P .0. Box 2, Palmyra, NJ 08065-0002 the arbor chuck leaving a flat seat for the lap, then thread the Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 Fax.: 1-609-786-8812 arbor chuck and the lap with the same thread so the lap can be screwed onto the arbor chuck. After the lap has been mounted, it is trued up with a sharp smooth cutter in the slide rest. First, true up the di­ ameter of the lap, then face the lap flat and smooth so the r'fi'I Precision front outside corner of the lap runs absolutely true. Note: Crystal Cutting Co. The larger in diameter the lap is, the straighter the radial Lf_9J lines will be that the lap grinds. The diameter of the lap should be at least four times the diameter of the wheel being rayed. "For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" When raying a wheel, the lap should turn in the opposite direction to that of the work. If a milling attachment is being used on top of the slide rest to turn the lap, the slide rest should be pivoted one degree to allow only the corner of the lap to contact the wheel being rayed. The spindle of the milling attachment should be raised so its center is above the lathe center. The amount should be enough so the lap will grind a flat surface on the wheel being finished. If the lap is SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK set too high, it will leave a high center on the wheel. If set too Supplies of Expert Crystal Cutter low, it will hollow grind the wheel. All Major Crystals With 10 yrs. Experience When a grinder/pivot polisher is used to ray wheels, the spindle of the attachment is swiveled one degree to allow only the corner of the lap to contact the work. The Moseley LOWEST pivot polisher is an excellent tool for raying and snailing because the spindle can be raised and lowered as well as turned Prices in the Country to any angle. Most pivot polishers can be raised and lowered very little and this is done by swinging the spindle up or down SHIP TO slightly. Mostly they are designed to grind on center. Some Precision Crystal Cutting Reference & Price list important advantages that the grinder/milling attachment has 23940 Eureka On Request over the pivot polisher is that they can be adjusted to any Taylor, Ml 48180 height and the spindle can be tilted to any angle as well as swiveled to any angle. This allows the lap to be aligned easily (313) 287-3480 • FAX (313) 374-2927 (24 hrs.) to the wheel being worked on.

January 1991 /Horological Times 25 SETTING THE POSITION OF THE LAP depends somewhat on the diameter of the lap. The larger the Figure 1 shows the lap set in the proper pos1t1on lap, the straighter the lines will be with the same ratio between for raying a ratchet wheel. In this case, the lap is set so it will the lap and the work. A satisfactory ratio between the lap and grind on center with the wheel. When this is done, the rayed the work is about 3 to 1; that is, the lap should turn about lines will point toward the center of the wheel and they will three turns to one of the work. In any case, the lap should have very little curve. Of course, the straightness of the lines turn faster than the work if it is desired to have the radial lines as straight as the lap can make for its diameter. If we reverse this ratio-that is, if we make the work turn faster than the lap­ then the lap will produce a curved snail-like effect on the Figure 2 wheel similar to what is shown in Figure 2. This effect is cre­ ated because the surface of the wheel rubs past the lap since it moves faster than the lap. This causes an abrasive action be­ tween the wheel and the lap. I I Figures 3 and 4 show the results of the lap on the wheel when the corner of the lap is moved to one side of the wheel's vertical center. Figure 3 shows the pattern created -ffi- when the lap is moved away from the vertical center line. The 1 lines in the pattern created remain about the same curvature as the edge of the lap as long as the speed of the lap is faster than the speed of the work. When the speed of the work is made faster than the speed of the lap, the lines become more curved. When the lap is set off center in this manner, a hub will be created near the center of the wheel. The diameter of the hub will increase as the corner of the lap is set further off center and vise versa. Note that the radial lines appear to unwrap from around the hub. Figure 3 Figure 4 shows the lap set across the vertical center line. Note that the radial lines are directed from an off-center point on the wheel outwardly toward the outside edge of the I wheel. If the lap is set enough off center, then an off-center hub will appear and the radial lines will run from the hub toward the outside edge of the wheel. The radial lines will appear to unwrap from around the hub. The hub will not be so distinctly shaped as the hub shown in Figure 3.

Figure 5

Figure 4 I

26 Horological Times/January 7997 WATCHMAKERS - JEWELERS How long would it take you to diagnose the following watches using your present test equipment?

With lnnovative's Quartz Watch Tester, model WT-100 you could diagnose them all - in seconds - without removing any watch components. I I Quartz Watch Tester Model WT-100

Figure 6 Typical product features: • Tests watches with or without batteries • Tests batteries in or out of watches • Easy to use - no adjustments to make • Tests components without removal • One year warranty • Made in the USA • Inexpensive - only $49.95 (plus $2.00 postage & handling) INNOVATIVE ELECTRONICS 64-46 84th Street, Flushing, NY 11379

Due to the tremendous response to our Crysta£ Cfu6, we have extended the deadline for redeeming free crystal Figure 7, fits to June 30th, 1991. If you're still not a member, there's FINISHING ELGIN CROWN AND RATCHET WHEELS plenty of time to enroll. Just call our Figures 5, 6, and 7 show Elgin winding wheels and customer service department and ask examples of the finish that they placed on their winding for details. Better yet, send us a wheels. Figure 5 shows a flat polished ratchet wheel with a watch bezel to be fitted for a crystal - snailed circle. The wheel was first given a flat polish, then the snailing was done. This wheel also has bevel ground teeth. this makes you an automatic The beveling was probably done as the last operation. The member! teeth on some of the polished wheels were bevel polished also. Figure 6 shows a different grade of finish. In this case, the ratchet wheel was first given a straight line rayed finish, Ray Gaber Co. then the snailed circle was made and the teeth bevel ground. Figure 7 shows a crown wheel with a matching finish. Another 800 Penn Avenue finish that Elgin used was made by first grinding a flat grey Pittsburgh, PA 15222 matte finish on the face of the wheel, then grinding the snailed 800-792-2820 circle and grinding the bevel on the teeth. (Please turn to page 30) Fax 800-229-6539

January 1991 /Horological Times 27 SHOPTALK

Wes Door

Quartz Movement Interchangeability Chart PART4

his chart includes 110. ligne through 13 ligne. Column The first number is the minute hand, next the hour hand, TA is reserved for our personal number system, col­ and if a third number is listed it is the second hand post umns B and C are ligne sizes, D is the movement thickness, measurement. Hands are grouped and measurements are as and E and F show models and their features. Even discon­ follows: A = 45-90, B = 50-100, C = 55-100, D = 60-110, tinued models are included in this chart, as we need to know E = 60-120, F = 65-110, G = 70-120, H = 80-130, I= 90-150, their features to select a proper substitute. In most cases J = 100-180, K = 110-190, and L = 60-100. The first measure­ a substitute is listed here. Column G shows a letter to indicate ment is the minute hand followed by the hour hand. The last relative dial feet placement. Those with the same letter will column, I, shows the correct AWI cell number. Also, some interchange with each other; for instance, J will interchange mechanical movements are shown in our quartz chart and this with all other Js in this dial feet column. Dial feet may need is indicated by "MECH" in this column. to be shortened in some of these. This completes our updated list of interchangeable Hand openings are listed in column H in metric. numbers. We hope this will be an aid in retrofitting.

A B c D E F G H I A B c D E F G H I OUR LIGNE LIGNE THICK· MODEL FEATURES DIAL HANDS AWi OUR LIGNE LJGNE THICK· MODEL FEATURES DIAL HANDS AWi NO WIDTH LENGTH NESS NUMBER OR INTER- FEET CELL NO WIDTH LENGTH NESS NUMBER OR INTER- FEET CELL CHANGE POS. NO. CHANGE POS. NO.

2.50 ll'h ··~ ESA 955.031 LL 2.50 PUW 251 MM 11 'h 2.50 ESA 955.101 DISC. LL G 70-120 SIS llY.z 2.75 ESA 555 .112 MM

11\li 2.50 PUW 250 LL 11~ 2.75 JUNGHANS MM 669.20 11\li 2 60 RONDA 3972 LL 11\.2 2_75 JUNGHANS MM II~ 2.60 RONDA 3973 LL 669.21

2.75 JUNGHANS LL I Ill 2.75 JUNGHANS MM ··~ 669.00 669.22 1rn 2.75 JUNGHANS LL 1rn 2.75 JUNGHANS MM 669.01 669.25

ll'h 3_00 PUW 680 LL 1rn 2.75 JUNGHANS MM 669 26 11\li 3 25 ISA J J9S/IO LL 11 'h 2_90 RONDA 3975 S.S./CAL. MM D60-JJO SIS II Vi 3 JO ESA 944 IOI LL 11'h 2.95 ESA 555 I 11 MM II!-\ 3_00 FE 7220 LL llY.z 3.00 FE 7221 MM G 70-120 SIS II!-\ 3 00 FE 7221 G 70-120 SIS llY.z 3.10 ESA 944011 MM 190-150 S20 II~ 3.70 ESA 954 101 LL G 70-120 SIS llY.i. 3.10 ESA 944. 111 REPLACES MM 190-150 S20 ll!h 3_75 RONDA 371 LL llY.r. 3.10 ESA 947. 111 Use 944. 111 MM 190-150 520 11\li 3 75 RONDA 372 LL 1rn 3.40 ESA 963.114 MM ll'h 3.75 RONDA373 LL ll'h 3.50 PUW6SI MM JlYi 450 ESA 952 IOI LL ltY.z 3.50 PUW 6SIA MM II Vi 5.50 ESA 9360 LL 1rn 3.60 ESA 926.311 MM 11 'h 1.95 ESA 255-111 MM ll'h 3.70 ESA 554.111 DISC. MM G 70-120 S28 11\.7 2.50 ESA 955.111 S.S./CAL. MM G 70-120 SIS ll'h J_70 ESA 554.l 12 MM 11 Vi 2-50 ESA 955.112 MM 111/i. 3.70 ESA 954.111 MM

28 Horological Times/January 1991 A 8 c D E F G H I A B c D E F G H OUR LIGNE LIGNE THICK­ MODEL FEATURES DIAL HANDS AWi OUR LIGNE LIGNE THICK· MODEL FEATURES DIAL HANDS AWi NO. WIDTH LENGTH NESS NUMBER OR INTER­ FEET CELL NO. WIDTH LENGTH NESS NUMBER OR INTER­ FEET CELL CHANGE POS. NO CHANGE POS NO

llll 3.7S RONDA 37S S S./CAL. MM I 90-1 SO S2S 1rn ETA 9362 OISC USE 190·150 SIO 202101KIT ll!h. 3.SS ESA963111 REPLACES MM 190-ISO S2S 963. 114 ll!h. 3, 10 ESA 450.111 528 ll!h. 3 BS ESA 963,J 13 MM s 60 ESA S36 121 90·150·25 S04 Ill'< 3 90 ISA I 19B.30 MM 3.70 ESA S54 111 90-1 50·25 528 I I Y1 4 so ESA 9S2 I I I MM 11 Y: 2 7S ESA S55 I 12/5 70-120-20 528 ll1h 4.9S ESA 9S2. I 12 MM 11 1h. 4 20 ESA 900 231 G 70·120 510

IHI 5 50 ESA 9361 MM IJ'h 4 20 ESA 900 911 G 70-120 SOI

Ill\ S,50 ESA S36,l 1 I DISC MM 190-ISO S04 3 10 ESA944111 90-1 50-25 520

300 ESA 955 121 s.s NN G 70-120 Sl8 ll1h 3.10 ESA947 Ill 90-150-25 520 DAY/DATE ll!h 3,70 ESA 9S4 111 /2 90-1 50-25 S2S I I Yi 3.00 ESA 9SS 122 NN ]Jlh 4 20 ESA 954 121 /2 90-1 50-25 528 JJ!h 3.00 PUW 2S3 SS/D.D NN G70-120 SIS SPACELJNE ll!h 2 so ESA955112 70-120-20 SIS ESA 2SS.121 ll!h. 2 45 NN 11\/z 2.62 ESA 955 114 70-120·20 SIB

3 25 ESA sss.122 NN 3.00 ESA 955. 122 70-120-20 SIB

11%. 3.35 RONDA 3977 NN 11\/z 3 12 ESA 955 124 70·120-20 SIB I Ill 3 40 FE 7222 NN 111/i 3.95 E5A 957 011 G 70-120 519 3 4S ESASS5121 NN ll'lz llY:z 4 50 E5A 960. 111 90-130-23 SIO PUW 6B3 NN 3.50 3 S5 ESA 963 111 /3 90-150-25 530 3 so PUW 683A NN ll'lz 11'/z 3.40 ESA963114/6 90-150-25 528

ll!h. 3 BO ESA 944 121 NN Ill'< 3 85 ESA 963 121 /6 90-150-25 S28

Jl!h 3.BO ESA 947 121 DISC. NN 190-ISO S20 llY.t 3 17 y 142 PULSAR 6S-1 l 0-20 S2B 190-ISO S2S 3 B5 ESA 963 121 USE NN llY.i. 3.4S y 143 PULSAR 6S-1I0·20 S2S 963 124 111h 3,4S y 144 PULSAR 6S-I 10-20 S28 ll!h. 3 BS ESA 963.124 S.S/D.D NN 190-150 S2B 3.50 Y960 S21 11%. 3.55 ESA 963.123 USE NN I 90-150 S2S 963 124 Ill\ 3,90 y 561 IY 571 I 6S-1 I0-20 S26 1rn 4.20 ESA SS4,121 NN Ill\ 4 20 y 563 S26 ll!h 4.20 ESA SS4. l 22 NN Ill\ 4.20 y 572 S26 Ill\ 4.20 ESA 9S4. 121 NN II\/! 4,20 y 573 S26

ll!h. 4,2S RONDA 377 SS,/D.D NN 190-150 S2B Ill\ 2.60 HQ 3973 RONDA D 60-110 SIS 11'/z 4.4S ISA I 19B/40 NN ll'h 3.75 HQ373 RONDA 90-1 S0·20 S2S Jllf.. 4.9S ESA 9S2. 121 NN 11\6 3 75 HQ375 RONDA 90- I S0-20 S2S Ill'< 5,SO ESA 9362 NN ll'lz 4 25 HQ377 RONDA 90-1 S0-20 S2S Ill'< 5.SO ESA S36.121 USE NN 190-ISO S04 4,50 HQ 378 RONDA S2S 9SS ,121 290 HQ 3975 RONDA D60·110 SIB 1rn 4.50 ESA 960.101 pp Ill\ 4.00 BUL. 1281 XX 190-1 SO MECH II y, 4.50 ESA 960. 11 I' QQ 11\/z 4.80 BUL 1453 XX 90-1 S0·2S MECH Ill'< 3.35 HP6640 RR Ill\ 4.80 BUL, 2451 70-120-1 S S22 3.35 HP6640A RR 111h 5,00 SUL 2453 70-120-18 S22 llYI: 3.90 HP 6641 RR Ill\ 2.50 BUL. 2800.10 190-ISO SIS IB.S. 3,90 HP6641A RR 11Yi. 2.60 BUL 2BOl.IO 190-ISO SIS 1rn 3 60 JUNGHANS SS 633,SO llY.! 3.20 BUL 2B02, IO 90-IS0-19 SIS

11\.7 3 ,60 JUNGHANS SS 3.20 BUL 2B03,IO 90-IS0·19 Sl8 633.SI 111h: 3,20 BUL. 2S06 10 90-IS0·19 SIS JJYi 3.60 JUNGHANS TT 633.60 ll!h. 3.SO ISA 119B 90-1 S0·20 S28 JI II< 3.60 JUNGHANS TT Jl'lz 3 30 REMEX6641 S2B 633.61 12 4.80 JUNGHANS uu FE 7228 Ill\ 3.40 667,00 3.8S ESA 957,011 12 4.80 JUNGHANS uu ll!h 3.9S RONDA 377R S.S./D.D. 190-1 so S28 667.01 12 11 Yi 4.SO ESA S70,JOI DISC. K 11 0-190 SJ O 4.80 JUNGHANS uu 667.40 ll!h 4.80 ESA 870 111 DISC. K 110-190 S JO 12 4.SO JUNGHANS uu 1rn 2.75 ETA S55.115 S-5./CAL. G 70-120 SIS 667.41

January 1991 /Horologica/ Times 29 J_ A B c D E F G H o...., ~ 2 OUR LIGNE LIGNE THICK- MODEL FEATURES DIAL HANDS AWi Figure 9 NO WIDTH LENGTH NESS NUMBER OR INTER- FEET ·CELL CHANGE POS NO I 12 5 70 JUNGHANS vv 667.20

12 5.70 JUNGHANS vv 667 21 """= 12 5 70 JUNGHANS vv • 667 22

12 5 90 JUNGHi<;NS WW ~ 667.30 •II 12Y.i. 3 70 ESA940 IOI xx • \ 12\/1 3 70 ESA 940 111 90-150-26 S22

121h. 3.40 y 652 Sl3

121h. 3.80 y 653 Sl3

13 6 45 ESA 934.912 DIGITAL S09

13 3 70 ESA 940 111 DISC yy 190-150 S24

13 6. 10 ESA 9180 yy is set for snailing the circle. The brass rod used for the lap 13 6. 10 ESA9181 DISC. yy should be set above the horizontal center line of the wheel 13 7 IO ESA 9182 DISC yy as shown in Figure 8. The equipment should be set so the yy 13 7 IO ESA 9183 DISC corner of the end of the rod touches the wheel at the vertical 13 3 80 ESA 944. 131 yy center line. Then the angle on the milling attachment is 13 3.80 ESA 947. 131 yy adjusted so that the end of the rod touches the wheel from the corner of the rod to the center of the rod. In other words, only one half of the end of the rod is used to do the snailing of the circle. If the end of the rod is set flat against the wheel, then the snailed pattern would show crisscrossed lines. The correct setting is about one-half degree. See Figure 9. This view is from the top of the lathe. When setting the equipment, it is a good idea to chuck up a piece of brass rod which is larger than the lap and face its end absolutely flat. Then chuck this rod in the spindle of the milling attachment and use this TECHNICALLY WATCHES to go against the winding wheel as an indicator when setting (Continued from page 27) the equipment. After the equipment has been set, the lapping rod is placed in the spindle of the milling attachment for grinding Figure 8 shows how the snailed circle is made on a the circle. The grinding paste is applied to the surface of the winding wheel. This is done with the end of a brass rod which wheel, then as the work is turning in one direction and the lap is chucked in a wire chuck in the spindle of the milling attach­ is turning in the opposite direction, the lap is brought lightly ment. The rod serves as a lap. The diameter of the rod is equal against the whe~I and held there for a few turns of the wheel. to the desired width of the snailed circle. After this, the lathe headstock is removed from the lathe bed so the wheel's surface can be inspected. This check is SETTING THE LAP FOR SNAILING A CIRCLE to determine if the lap is grinding evenly on the surface of After the winding wheel has been rayed, then the lap the wheel. If the lap is set correctly, it will grind a width of circle equal to the diameter of the rod. If this is not the case, the spindle of the milling attachment may need to be tipped slightly so the lap will grind a full width circle. The pattern that the lap produces will vary with the relative speeds of the work and the lap. As the speed of the work is increased in relationship to the speed of the lap, the shape of the line becomes more elongated. Note: When grinding this circular pattern, the speed of the work can be reduced greatly in re­ lationship to the speed of the lap. Also, a female center should be turned in the end of the rod used as a lap. This center helps to hold the grinding paste on the lap. Some experimenting may need to be done to match the lines on the new wheel with the lines on the mating wheel. Finishing winding wheels wil l continue next month.

30 Horological Times/January 1991 INTRODUCING JAMES LUBIC MANAGER OF AWl'S EDUCATION & TECHNICAL SERVICES

Strengthening AWi's commitment to excellence in educational opportunities and technical services, we are pleased to introduce a new staff member, James Lubic. Mr. Lubic joined the administrative staff of AWi in January 1991. His responsibilities will be AWi's recently expanded educational opportunities and the technical information service so many mem­ bers have come to depend on. For the past five years, James Lubic has been an instructor and director at the Ohio Valley Watch­ makers Institute in Cincinnati, Ohio. He distinguished himself by graduating first in his class in the Spring 1990 WOSTEP program in Neuchatel, Switzerland. classes. During 1989-90, Jim Lubic served as Chair­ Prior to joining the staff of the Ohio Valley Watch­ man of the Research & Education Council during makers Institute, Mr. Lubic had a number of years which period he also served as REC AW1 Board of practical watchmaker experience for a leading member. watch firm. Lubic has been a traveling workshop Milton Stevens, Executive Secretary of AWi, instructor for AWi, teaching the "Introduction to stated that by adding James Lubic to the AWi staff the Watchmakers Lathe" course. He will be involved we are fortunate to add someone young in years in the instruction of a number of the Project Extend yet long in technical skill, knowledge, and experience.

SINCERE THANKS TO MR. JAMES LUBIC FROM OHIO VALLEY WATCHMAKING INSTITUTE

Jim's current class in attendance consists of Joe Fay, Dave Weinle, James Schisler, Robert Standriff, John Reichrath, Jr., Stan Finley, David Schreiner, and myself, Matthew Finnell. I am sure I can also speak for his former students in wishing him the best of luck as he moves into a new position as a full-time member of AWi's staff. Jim came to Goodwill Industries at 10600 Springfield Pike in January 1985 to be the in­ structor of the Ohio Valley Watchmaker's Institute. The school offers a demanding course in watch­ making designed to be roughly 67 weeks long. During his 5 years and 11 months here, he has demon­ strated and refined his exceptional abilities as both a practicing horologist a.nd an adept horological teacher. Along with watchmaking classes, he established and taught clockmaking and jewelry. In January 1990, Jim's desire to be one of the best watchmakers in his profession took him all the way to Switzerland. In Switzerland, Jim took an advanced 6-month training course called WOSTEP, distinguishing himself by graduating first in his class. Mr. Lubic is also an excellent teacher. This is demonstrated by the high success rate of his former students. One particular example of Jim's high teaching standards was displayed last year as Harold Fehrman, one of Jim's students, received the highest score in the country on the AWi Cer­ tified Watchmaker's test. Mr. Lubic, thank you for helping us adjust to our new instructor, Chuck McKinney. We would like to welcome him. Foremost, Mr. Lubic, we all feel fortunate to have had your guidance in the classroom and we wish the best for you in the future.

January 1991/Horologica/ Times 31 Pickle Barrel

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

A BEGINNER'S COURSE IN JEWELRY CRAFTING AND REPAIR Part 3 RING SIZING

Solder--. here are many different problems in ring sizing that Chi ---.._ P I !..-Yellow ,______, ! ~White T will occur from time to time which are far from rou­ tine. One of these is the sizing of two-tone gold wedding bands, or any piece of jewelry using two colors of gold which White -~--~l ~Gold ~..._White needs some type of repair or alteration, for that matter. Yellow- Solder ~Yellow One skill that can be a valuable asset even in ring sizing is that of hand engraving. Whenever a pattern of decora­ White tion has been broken by inserting or removing a piece of met­ al, it's advantageous to be able to re-engrave the blank space to reasonably match the existing engraving. In further advancing in jewelry crafting and repair, hand engraving is almost a neces­ sity when setting stones, especially flat settings for diamonds. One of the schools teaching jewelry repair and stone setting strongly urges that a student take his or her course in hand engraving before the course in stone and diamond setting. When a ring that is either two-tone gold or engraved comes in for sizing, you must first explore all possibilities of enlarging by stretching or making smaller by shrinking. In FIGURE 1 doing this, there is less chance of damaging the engraving. The first step in making this detem1ination is to check to see if the ring is seamless without having been previously cut and hard soldered. This can be done if no place appears under magnifi­ cation by heating it with a torch to a cherry red. This will also anneal the metal and make it soft so it will stretch or shrink without breaking or checking. It can be slow-cooled or quenched in room temperature water which will not change the hardness. If the ring has been previously cut and there is a solder joint, it will cause the solder to melt when heated If you decide that stretching or shrinking is not prac­ cherry red and the place will easily be seen. If this shows that tical to use, then the ring must be cut. I always use a 'V joint the ring has a solder joint then it won' t be practical lo try and in cutting the ring. I use a pair of diagonal cutting pliers, which stret h or shrl!:ik it. In using a conical taper which is part of leave a wedge-shaped point on both ends of the ring where cut, the regu lar ring stretchers for shrinking the size I have found leaving a 120 degree angle after it has been filed true (Figure that it help lO preserve the engraving to wrap about two 1). lf Lhe ring is to be made smaller, then only one side needs thicknesses of masking tape around the outside edges which to be dressed to the proper angle. This is because in removing a docs hel.p protect it. When either stretching or shrinking the piece to make it smaller with a saw it will leave the end perfect­ ring should be inspected under magnification with about every ly square. A starting groove can "V" out in this end with a quarter size of change. Whenever the metal starts to harden jewelers saw ; with a triangular needle file, the groove can be from working, anneal it again. Keeping the metal soft and pli­ filed which will Leave a groove with the proper 120-degree an­ able will save breakage or checking (small minute cracks form­ gle (the angle of a 1riangular file). This should allow for a ing in the surface of the metal). For millgrain edge rings, tight fit and if you' re careful and stingy with solder. very little shrinking is not recommended but can be done for small reduc­ damage will be done to the engraved outer surface. The sol­ tions. If the millgrain gets damaged it is easy to repair with a der line can usually be removed with a few cuts with a hand millgrain tool, but I will say again to wrap it in masking tape, engraving tool, and when polished it will be hard to see. and it will be protected for small reductions. To make the ring larger, the ends can be opened by

32 Horological Times/January 1991 sliding the ring up the ring mandrel to a larger size, probably where the piece was added. For example, an orange blos­ one or two sizes larger than the size you intend to make. When som engraving is a series of small domes each surrounded by slid back to the size it is intended to be, the ring should still four petals, making a blossom. The dome usually can be dupli­ fit tightly on the mandrel. This is because when the solder cated with a beading tool the size that will match the dome in joints are complete and the ring rounded out on the mandrel, any of the other petals. This can be done by putting the ring it will be about an eighth to a quarter size smaller. The ends tightly on the ring mandrel, positioning the beading tool can then be filed to the same wedge points, as the one end was without a handle where the center of the flower should be, shaped for making it smaller. With the ring on the mandrel and tapping it with a hammer to form the dome. The petals pushed up the taper to the size intended, the gap can be mea­ can be cut with a round bottom graver used for hand engraving sured with a mm gauge or vernier caliper from the thick ends which will cut depressions around the dome forming the blos­ of the taper. This will give the length of the piece to be made. som. Sometimes it will only take one to fill the blank space. Since most ring shanks of two-tone gold are from two However, depending on how many sizes the ring has been en­ to three millimeters thick, cut the yellow and the white gold larged will determine how many blossoms it will take to fill from stock 1~ mm thick the width of the ring shank and the the blank space on the piece between the millgrain edges. length measured between the ends. These can be placed on the Since most rings that have to be sized will only be ob­ heat-resistant bench pad, and one side of each fluxed. A chip served under magnification by the jewelers who inspect them, of gold solder either yellow or white can be fluxed and placed the match of engraving can hardly be expected to be a perfect on the face of one piece of gold and heat applied enough to match. Therefore, the ring can be polished on the inside and flow it over that surface. By placing the piece with the solder on the edges the same as any ring that has been sized. The en­ flowed on the face on top of the other piece and applying graved part can be polished using a bristle brush on the polish­ heat, the solder will flow' bonding the two pieces together in ing motor with tripoli, then final finishing both the engraved one piece 3 mm thick, or maybe a little thicker due to the piece and the entire ring with rouge on a cotton or linen buff­ solder between the layers. Using a hand vise or rough jaw ing wheel. Many engraved rings show considerable wear, so parallel pliers, use a triangular file and file the "V" in each end it is sometimes necessary to polish these heavily with tripoli so that the piece will fit into the opening of the ring shank and to make the place where the ring was sized look like the worn the colors of gold will match the colors of gold in the shank. ring. The ring can then be cleaned with a jewelry cleaner using This piece should be fit with very little tension from the ring ultrasonic or a brush, rinsing in clean water, and drying using shank, for when the solder flows to make the joints, the heat heat. Once polished, it is usually hard to tell where the piece could caus~ the solder bonding the piece together to melt; is without magnification. too much pressure can cause it to separate. With this caution Some jewelry craftsmen work in retail jewelry outlets considered and the piece fitted properly, the joints can be and do remount work or buy old gold so they are in a position fluxed, a small flake of solder put on each side, and heat ap­ to obtain discarded karat gold rings and jewelry. When this plied until the solder on one side flows. Then move the heat to gold accumulates, it is good to sort out the old rings or pieces the other side and repeat. When the heat is applied from the of solid gold that can be used in making a repair. No doubt opposite side of the shank from the solder chip, it will draw some two-tone karat gold wedding bands will show up. It the solder through the joint, making a smooth, fully covered would be wise to keep these, because they can be your source solder joint. It is always good to remember that too much heat for ring sizing stock for two-tone wedding bands when a piece will cause the solder to boil, leaving a pitted joint. needs to be added in enlarging. A rolling mill will easily pay After inspecting the joints and the solder is flowed for itself in a short time in working old salvage gold into work­ properly, the ring can be put on the mandrel and rounded with able pieces. Shanks can be cut 'from old rings, rolled to a uni­ a rawhide mallet. The piece should be a little larger than the form thickness, and then trimmed with the jewelers saw (or ring shank. However, the dividing line of the white and yellow shears in some cases) to a uniform width as well as thickness. gold should match the same line of the shank, which will allow In any ring sizing, the thickness of the shank where it to be hammered to the exact size with the steel chasers ham­ the piece is to be added will, govern the thickness of the piece mer. Sometimes it is necessary to file the inside with the half­ needed, and it is best to make the piece slightly thicker than round inside ring file to remove any excess metal that will the shank of the ring where it is to be sized. The width of the cause a problem in shaping before hammering. piece also is governed by the width of the shank where the When the .inside of the ring has been filed smooth and piece will be installed, and it also should be slightly wider than the ring rounded on the mandrel to the desired size, the sides the shank in that place. It would take a sizeable amount of of the ring can be filed smooth. This leaves the outside of the money to stock ring sizing bars in all needed sizes. Ring sizing ring to be finished and the engraving reasonably matched. This stock costs much more than old gold even if you have to buy can be done by first filing the outside of the added piece to it, but any unuseable scrap that you have after making as the same thickness as the shank on both sides of it, which will much as you can in useable stock can then be melted and make the general .c.ontour of the shank match the rest of it. poured into ingots that can also be rolled out into useable Since many of these engraved wedding bands have a millgrain pieces. After melting more than once, it is best to send it to edge, tkis can be made in the following manner: Using the a refiner to be refined to fine gold, and then alloyed to the jewelers saw, saw a groove next to the edge on each side to karat, color, and size you want. join up with and match the existing groove next to the mill­ grain on the ring. With a fine-cut triangular needle file, the Next month's article will continue with ring sizing, groove can be cut into a "V", which will leave a sharp edge and we'll discuss some of the problems that arise in making on each side of the added piece. Then with a millgrain tool, rings larger or smaller. the millgrain can be rolled on, matching that which is all around the ring oh both sides. The center of the piece between the millgrain edges will be blank. This is where it will take in­ genuity to match the engraving so no blank space will be left

January 1991/Horological Times 33 J.P. Kenyon, CMC

HOROLOGICAL CALCULATIONS

he first series of "Timely Tips for Clockmakers" MOTION WORK CALCULATIONS T will deal with horological calculations. Principles The motion work differs from the other clock mech­ of mathematics find wide application in the problems that anism gear trains in that it is designed for a step down in arise in routine clock repair. In the beginning we will study rotational speed. In other words, the pinions are the drivers relatively simple problems, then progress to some of the more and the wheels are driven. The minute hand is fixed to the complex calculations. The intent is to develop an under­ center shaft which turns once per hour. To indicate correct standing of basic calculations related to clock repair and time, the hour hand turns 1/12th of this rate. Thus, the build a good reference file so that the craftsman will be gearing is designed to have a 12 to 1 reduction ratio. Since this prepared fn the broadest sense to tackle calculations in solving mechanism is linked to the indicating part of the clock, it is problems related to bench work. In this sense, calculations sometimes referred to as the dial train. will be designed to show, by specific example, how many of The train may be formed by many different com­ these computations are made. Each article will include some binations as long as the combined ratio equals 12 (the product practice problems with correct answers. of the wheel teeth divided by the product of the pinion leaves equals 12). To define by formula: The installments will include: A. Motion Work Calculations MH = 12 B. Counting the Train cm C. Calculating the Beats Per Hour D. Calculating the Time Between Windings M = minute wheel teeth E. Calculating the Length of a Lost Mainspring H = hour wheel teeth F. Pendulum Length and Weight Calculations m = minute pinion leaves G. Calculations Related to Stopwork c = cannon pinion leaves H. Calculating the Teeth and Leaves of a Missing Gear and Pinion A. Suppose that the hour wheel has been lost. I. Calculating the Size of a Missing Gear and Pinion J. Calculating the Size of Gear and Pinion Blanks MH = 12 cm K. Calculations in Making a Rack and Snail L. Laws and Calculations Governing the M 30 Action of a Pendulum H (X) M. Other Useful Calculations m 10 N. Conversion Factors and Tables Related to Horology c = 10

34 Horological Times/January 1991 Substituting the values in the equation: (X) _ 120 _ (Y) - 40- 3 30 x (X) - --- = 12 10 x 10 Therefore, the r.atio of 3: 1 indicates that the minute wheel 12 x 10 x 10 = (X) must have three times as many teeth as the minute pinion 30 has leaves. Combinations that will work are:

X = 40 teeth in the hour wheel

B. Suppose that the cannon pinion has been lost:

Using the same formula and values, Practice calculations (Answers on page 56.)

30 x 40 12 1. Calculate the number of teeth in a missing hour wheel. (X) x 10 The minute wheel has 30 teeth, the minute and cannon pinions have 12 and 10 leaves respectively. 120 = 12 2. Calculate the number of leaves in a missing cannon (X) pinion. The minute and hour wheels have 36 and 48 teeth respectively, and the minute pinion has 12 leaves. X = 10 leaves on the cannon pinion 3. The minute wheel and pinion are lost in a dial train C. If the minute wheel and pinion are lost: containing an hour wheel of 48 teeth, and a cannon pinion of 12 leaves. Calculate the ratio of combinations that can be Let X teeth in the minute wheel used for the missing wheel and pinion. Let Y leaves in the minute pinion Next time we will learn how to count a train to obtain valuable information in respect to calculations to be (X) x 40 12 used in future installments. 10 x (Y)

We're interested in your color slides.

The American Watchmakers Institute knows If your color slide is used, you will receive an that there is a wealth of talent in its member­ 8V2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed ship and that this talent is not only in the and sent to you for your enjoyment. field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there. Mail your color slide with description to:

Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty Horological Times of your camera work can possibly participate P.O. Box 11011 in having your own picture reproduced on Dept. 31 the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Horological Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you All slides become the property of the American submit must be a color slide. Color photos are Watchmakers Institute. not acceptable.

January 1991 /Horological Times 35 SELF-WINDING WATCHES

Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

THE CHRONO-MATIC A SELF-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH & CALENDAR WATCH PART3 Part 3 includes a description of assembly, lubrication, and ad­ justment of the chronograph mechanism.

CHRONOGRAPH MECHANISM If you have not dismantled the chronograph plate (8510 in Figure 24), or if you have obtained it in a unit as a efore assembling the chronograph plate on the move­ standard replacement, simply place it on the three pillars and ment, be sure the lubrication and relevant checks on B secure it by the three screws with blue heads (58510). Now the basic movement here are complete as described. proceed to lubricate as shown in Figure 24. Secure the driving wheel (8060) on the upper pivot If you have taken apart the chronograph plate unit, of the fourth wheel (225). These two wheels must be "solid," assemble it with all its components before fixing it on the one with the other, by means of a very secure press-fit. movement below. Proceed as follows: Next, put the oscillating pinion (8086) in its place after lubricating its lower jewel in the movement. Do not grasp 1) Replace the coupling clutch screws (58079/1). the pinion by its fine teeth. 2) Secure the friction spring (8290) using the screw (58290). 3) Replace the sliding gear bridge (8105) and secure it with its screw (58105). 4) Replace the sliding gear (8100) and the screw (58100). Replace the sliding gear spring (8325). 5) Replace the connecting plate (8700). 6) Secure the operating and flyback lever (8180) with its screw (58180). Remember that this is a left thread. 7) Replace the operating lever (8140) and its two screws (58140). 8) Replace the flyback lever spring (8335/8340). 9) Oil the friction spring with only one drop on the arm of the fork. 10) Replace the chronograph runner (8000) and the min­ ute recorder runner (8020). 11) Position the hour recorder finger. 12) Replace the chronograph bridge (8500) and its three screws (58500). 13) Adjust the meshing of the teeth between the minute recorder wheel and the sliding wheel. (There must be deep penetration.) 14) Position the minute recorder jump spring rest (thin) (8271) and the minute recorder jumper (8270). Fix them together with the screw (58270). It is the short screw. 15) Replace the reverser (8146/ 1). Oil the joint of the re­ verser (8146/1) and the bearing of the flyback lever Figure 24 (8180).

36 Horological Times/January 1991 Figure 26. Position of the fingers at the starting position of the chronograph from 2ero.

Figure 25. Position of the fingers 5 seconds before the minute and hour recorders jump forward. 16) Grease the operating lever (8140) beneath each of its screws (58140). 17) Secure the hammer (8220) using the screw (58220). Check the height of the hammer (8220) relative to the heart cams and the clearance under the screw (58220). Oil the bearing of the hammer (8220). Re­ place the hammer cam jumper (8356) and its screw (58356). Grease the hammer (8220) at the following Figure 27. Position of the sliding gear during return to 2ero. frictional points: 1) With the hammer cam jumper (8356); 2) With the hour hammer (8680); 3) With the flyback lever (8180). 18) Replace the connecting wheel for the hour recorder with heart cam (8631). Replace the hour recorder (8601). 19) Position the hour hammer spring (8730) in the hour hammer (8680) and replace the unit. 20) Replace the hour recorder bridge (8620) and its two screws (58620). 21) Replace the hour recorder jumper rest (thick) (8707), flat side up, and the hour recorder jumper (8705). Secure the unit with the longer screw (68705). Figure28 22) Replace the safety screw of the hour hammer (58680). 30) Check the freedom of the minute recorder wheels. 23) Oil the hour hammer pivot. 31) Ad just the tension of the minute recorder jumper 24) Oil the oscillating pinion jewel (8086); place the chro­ (8270). It should be on the "weak side" of the ad­ nograph plate (8510) on the three pillars and secure justing. it with the three screws that have blue heads (58510). 32) Adjust the travel and depth of the chronograph run­ 25) Check the vertical clearance of the hour recorder ner finger (8000) as shown in Figures 25, 26, and 27, wheels (8601) and the minute recording runner and the hammer in Figure 28. (8020). (Clearance should be 0.03 mm.) 33) Adjust the pressure of the hour recorder jumper 26) Adjust the position of the reverser (8146) if necessary. (8705); it should be weak. 27) Check the freedom of the hammer (8220), the oper­ 34) Adjust the hour hammer (8680), if necessary. ating lever (8140), and the flyback lever (8180). 35) Oil the surface of the hour hammer (8680) referring 28) Check the height of the hammer (8220) on the heart to Figure 24. cams. The arm of the hammer (8220) must be in the 36) Replace the oscillating pinion (8086). Examine its center of the hearts. fine teeth for scratches, burrs; reject it if marred. 29) Check the meshing of the minute recorder sliding 37) Replace the coupling clutch spring (8323). Replace gear (8100) for deep penetration by means of the the coupling clutch unit (8079/1) with the screw sliding gear eccentric screw (8403) in Figure 25. (58079/1).

January 1991 /Horological Times 37 38) Check the penetration of the oscillating pm10n tips coincide exactly with the 60-second, 30-minute, and 12- (8086) teeth with the chronograph wheel (8000). hour divisions, respectively. Refer to Figure 29. Place them on gently at first, and press once more on 39) Check the jumps of the minute and hour recorders. the flyback lever (8180) to check whether they are perfectly Synchronization is achieved by rotating the hour centered. Next, press them hard, successively, to obtain a finger on the wheel "b" of the sliding gear (8100), tight fit. as shown in Figure 25. Notice that the best position Take care during this operation to support the corres­ of this finger is shown in the inset. ponding pivot on an adequate stake, as shown in Figure 30. 40) Position the blocking lever (8200) and its screw Actuate the flyback lever (8180) to make sure that the tips (58200). Adjust the tension of the blocking lever are positioned accurately. Then replace the brake spring (8200) on the chronograph wheel (8000) in the (8200). stopped position of the chronograph. Grease the blocking lever (8200) at the !rictional points: FINAL LUBRICATION 1) With the hammer pin (8220) of the blocking After replacing the dial and hands, don't forget to oil the ham­ lever; mer faces of the hour, minute, and chronograph runners, as 2) With the beak of the flyback lever (8180). well as the upper pivot of the runner and the pivot of the os­ cillating pinion. After replacing the dial, turn the winding stem while in the hand-setting position until the date jumps. Then posi­ tion the hour and minute hands at midnight. Next month will feature a trouble-shooting guide to help you with last-minute accuracy checks of the Chrono­ REPLACE CHRONOGRAPH HANDS matic. First, pass the extremity of the blocking lever spring (8200) over its stop pin so that the chronograph wheel (8000) is free. Press on the flyback lever (8180) to put the heart cams to the zero position. Turn the movement over and place the three hands on their respective pivots. Orient them so that their MOVEMENT BANK DONATIONS NEEDED

YOUR DONATION OF VINTAGE WATCH MOVE­ MENTS TO THE MOVEMENT BANK WI LL INSURE ITS ABILITY TO PROVIDE THIS VALUABLE SER­ VICE FOR PRESENT WATCHMAKERS AND WATCH­ MAKERS OF THE FUTURE. WHEN YOU NO LONG-­ ER NEED THE_M, BE SURE YOUR COLLECTION OF VINT AGE WATCHES COMES TO THE MOVEMENT BANK. YOUR GIFT IS TAX DEDUCTIBLE.

Figure 29

0 110 - 120

0,30 mm

0 1,00 mm

Figure 30

38 Horological Times/January 1991 How to Replace a Strike Rack

By John C. Losch

strike rack will need replacement when the original to point W for wear as carefully as possible. Add the amount A has been so crudely repaired or altered that it cannot of this measurement to line BC, Figure 1. Set a compass to the be reasonably repaired, or it has been lost. In either case, some new distance, then strike arc GH, which will pass through cir­ of the preparatory measurements are the same. If remains of cle C at points XYZ. Points XYZ represent the tips of three the original still exist, it may be possible to determine the teeth on the rack, and GH is the pitch circle of the rack. It is critical dimensions of the new rack from whatever part still also the working or actual radius of the rack. seems to engage properly with the gathering pallet. If nothing We are done with measuring and drawing for a while, exists, the rules are the same, but the job is more complicated; but I have a suggestion. It might be easier, when laying out it will be necessary to make some measurements based on drawings of this sort, to amplify them (in this case by a fac­ seemingly insufficient evidence. tor of ten), scale the drawings, then divide by ten for the

MEASUREMENTS AND CALCULATIONS Most of the measurements I will prescribe can be done cor­ rectly with the use of a pair of adjustable vernier calipers, a strong eyeglass, and good judgement. According to the "sci­ Figure 1 entific method," a result must occur three times under iden­ tical conditions. Check everything frequently and at least twice. What meets that test is probably a safe point from which to move on. Start by carefully measuring the distance from the center of the pivot hole for the third wheel (where the gather­ ing pallet is attached) to the center of the post where the rack is mounted. Draw line AB that length (see Figure 1). Deter­ mine the radius of the circle of travel described by the engag­ ing edge of the gathering pallet, point C of Figure 2. Return­ ing to Figure 1, accurately set a compass to the distance AC, Figure 2, and draw circle C, using point A as center. Now "sweep" an arc, DE, with the compass set at the exact dis­ tance from B to the edge of circle C on line AB. By this pro­ cess you have determined the theoretical radius of the rack at the bottom or root of the teeth. As a practical matter, the teeth should be cut a little deeper for clearance. 8 Here I would like to comment that the repairman does not always get the credit he deserves for being able to work around existing components. When a "one off' or hand­ wr------iC made clock was created, the clockmaker built parts in a se­ Figure 2 I I quence allowing him to compensate for various irregularities I I that might accrue as he built the clock. The rack was made I before the gathering pallet; it was planted with the help of a depthing tool, and the rack tail and snail were made last. You, I on the other hand, must work between existing parts. The next measurements will determine the height or radius of the actual rack, and the distance between teeth, or pitch of the rack. The practical radius of the rack is its pitch circle. Examine the working portion of the gathering pallet or I "tumbler" shown in Figure 2 to discover how far from edge LOCKING- PIN I C toward center A the wear reaches. Measure from point C "' c

January 1991 /Horological Times 39 working measurements. For example, if points AC in Figure 1 were .150" apart, it might help to make a drawing where those points were 1.5" apart. On that basis, points XYZ could be measured right off the drawing, then realized as working in­ formation by dividing by the multiplier (ten in this case). I recognize this will necessitate a large place to draw and some form of "beam compass." All of this information is available through geometric calculation, but I am not prepared to try to illustrate it here, and most of us are not likely to apply it in this kind of prac­ tical situation. Here we have several excuses for ignoring the­ oretical accuracy. First, the clock is old, worn, was made loose all over, and some final adjustments will be made with files and emery buffs. This argument weakens somewhat on French clocks. Second, it may be necessary (finally) to replace the rack tail so the new rack will correspond to the existing snail. Figure 3

MATERIAL LAYOUT It is time to select a piece of steel suitable to lay out the blank. You need not use tool steel for this part. Only very rarely have I encountered a hardened and tempered strike rack . Nor­ mally they are soft, especially since most early ones were filed out of soft iron hammered into sheet metal from portions of malleable iron ingots. Even Waltham and Elliot racks are soft, in my experience. Find a piece of steel of about equal thick­ ness to the original. (If you are restoring a clock authentical­ ly, other more restrictive rules apply.) The clock we are using as a pattern for this article has a rack with complicating features. There is a portion of the rack above the pitch diameter which our preliminary measure­ ments indicate to be the "working" diameter of the intended rack. This makes the job more involved since it will not be possible simply to turn the rack blank to diameter in a lathe as would be customary. Having selected a piece of steel proportional to a needed rack as established by preliminary measurements, Figure 4 paint it with layout die such as ' Dykem Blue" lacquer. Mark what will be the primary source of reference fo r radii, point B the line, getting as close as possible without crossing it. Now, (Figure 1) , with a center punch. With an accurately adjusted using your best "manual discipline," file precisely to the line. scriber-compass, mark off the pitch circle radius of the rack. You may use a precision filing machine if one is available, but All of these markings should conform to Figure 1. If the re­ I would avoid an ordinary die filing machine, since the files for mains of the original rack exist, as is the case with the clock them are usually too coarse, and the machine is likely to re­ we are usii1g for an example, the noncritical dimensions of the move too much stock-even in one stroke. Those with suffi­ rack can be determined by tracing around the original (see cient machine shop facilities available may want to experi­ Figure 3). ment with familiar means of milling or scraping metal to this Note in Figure 3 that the pattern is held tight against line. the rack blank by pressure from a piece of pegwood. Although Milling the teeth on a rack is fundamentally the same it does not show in the picture, the wood is held in the chuck as cutting a very large diameter gear, except the operation in­ of a drill press. Sufficient pressure is gained to prevent the volves a portion or "sector" of the gear. Select a wheel cutting pattern from slipping when the drill press quill is pushed down mandrel of a diameter suitable for the hole which will be at and locked. point B of Figure 1 where the brass fulcrum sleeve on the com­ Ordinarily, it would be practical to drill a hole at pleted rack is mounted. Drill the required hole slightly under­ point B to fit a wheel cutting mandrel, turn the working dia­ size so it will have to be reamed to fit the mandrel precisely. meter with a lathe, and proceed to mill the teeth. Because of Normally, I never cut just one wheel or rack since so the shape of this rack, it will be necessary to saw out the pitch little handwork is required in early stages of the operation. I line and finish it VERY CAREFULLY with a file. Do not cut never make less than three, bearing in mind that the small ex­ out the rest of the shape of the rack until after the teeth are tra labor involved now takes less time than repeating the en­ cut since all the extra metal provides support as the blank is tire operation a few months or even weeks ahead. In this case, milled. I would probably make only one rack since the handwork in­ With either a metal cutting jig saw, or with a jewelers' volved takes so much time, and to make three identical blanks saw while resting the work on a bench pin, begin to cut ac­ would require pinning the blanks together so they could be curately to the "pitch circle line." Figure 4 shows a conveni­ treated as one thick blank. ent way to set up a bench pin for sawing and filing without One rack blank is too thin to mill alone so it is ne­ having it always in the way when it is not needed. Stay outside cessary to provide extra support. Any thing or things which

40 Horological Times/January 1991 let. This means there can be a reasonable change in the dis­

CUTTtR ~OflLE tance apart from the rack teeth, provided the spacing of the teeth is uniform. Obviously, there are practical limits to this latitude. While not trying to belabor the point, a recalculation of the spacing and thus the required index, allowing a + or - of -H .010", will permit a range of indices from 144 to 17 4. These are safe limits. If no other remedy exists, it will be necessary D to buy, borrow, or make a suitable index-the latter being a --­ complete subject in itself. CHOOSING A CUTTER Next, we must select a cutter if one is available. If none is, we will have to settle for a slitting saw, possibly followed with a half-round file. A recoil escape wheel cutter might work for this project, although most of them are too wide for the neces­ sary depth of cut. It is also possible to make either a formed Figure 5 cutter or a fly-cutter for this job, but discussion of that pro­ cedure is beyond the scope of this text. Actually, we have already developed preliminary in­ formation needed to determine dimensions of the cutter. Line XYZ (Figure 1) gives us twice the thickness of the cutter at the pitch circle. Therefore, either distance XY or YZ will be the width of the cutter at the pitch circle. (Remember, if value XY was changed to accommodate an available index, you should work from the new dimension.) Distance XC is the minimum depth the cutter must project into the rack blank. As a practical matter, it should cut slightly deeper, as we ob­ served before. Consequently, a cutter affording measurements fairly close to dimensions shown in Figure 5 will be in the "ballpark." Figure 5 is a somewhat distorted representation of how the cutter would properly relate to the space between teeth of the rack. For clarity, it is shown as if the cutter were elevated out of the teeth after cutting. In Figure 5 it is most important that when the cut­ ter is passing through the rack blank during the actual cutting Figure 6 process, the cutter is entered deep enough to exceed the dis­ tance between lines DE and GH, originally found on Figure 1, will reach almost to the root diameter of the rack (line DE, by at least .020". At that point, the width of the cutter must Figure 1) will serve the purpose. This can be rough-sawed met­ not be greater than distance XY. If the cutter is too thin, don't al stock, large wheel blanks, or possibly even a main wheel panic. You will see shortly how this inadequacy can be com­ from this or another clock. At this stage we have a rack blank pensated by raising the milling table-another convenience not of proper diameter, suitable to be mounted on a mandrel, and available when cutting ordinary clock wheels. ready to be installed in the wheel cutting dividing head. Briefly, if no suitable cutter is available, the rack can be completed using an ordinary slitting saw. Set up for the TO SELECT AN INDEX radial part of the rack follows the same procedure described The teeth of a rack are pointed, and the points fall on the ahead. By lowering the milling table and adjusting the index, pitch circle line, so the numer of teeth on the index for this a second cut will produce a notch giving a close approximation rack is determined as if the rack were actually to be a 360 of a customary rack tooth. Most of this alternative involves degree gear. Suppose that distance XY (Figure 1) is .100". steps too obvious to justify extensive discussion here. Further, suppose that radius XB is 2.5". The circumference of To review, we now have a rack blank ready to install a 2.5" circle is 15.708"; divided by .100" we get a result, for in the milling machine or wheel cutting device, we have deter­ practical purposes, of 157. Thus, the index required to cut this mined and selected an appropriate index, and we have selected rack would allow 157 divisions. Even if the shop is equipped a cutter suitable for this job. We are ready to make a setup, with a universal dividing head, it is unlikely the divider can and proceed to cut the teeth. This is the easiest part, and for provide ·157. many the most fun. Almost every horologist I know is a frus­ With a universal divider the problem is minimal. trated machinist. There is a combination which will provide 156 for an index. Plenty close enough. But what if you do not have a universal MILLING THE RACK TEETH dividing head? What I propose next would be impossible, It would be impractical to anticipate every type of gear cut­ illegal, or unamerican if applied to cutting a gear intended to ting equipment used by readers. Through the cutting process, mesh with another. You have the option to choose an index I am going to write specifically about how I proceeded using a close in number to that needed. Why? With a rack, teeth are Bridgeport .vertical miller with the dividing head from an Atlas repositioned by the rack hook with each turn of the gathering horizontal bench miller. The setup is a little weird, but it pallet regardless of the distance they were carried by the pal- works for me. (Please turn to page 45)

January 1991 /Horological Times 41 James Adams, CMW, FBHI

CLEANING THE AMERICAN POCKET WATCH

s promised, we are going to number 108. The movement serial num­ tary ... we are gathered here for ... Hey, A dismantle and clean an American ber is 3,391,690. The Dueber 20-year if I wanna comment I'm gonna. pocket watch. Our subject will be a warrant case serial number is 10231955. As you can see, this is an open­ 16 size Hampden. Novice, I bet I'll It was made in 1910 and sold for $15.30, face case with a screw-down crystal have your mouth watering at the thought movement only, probably. Cases were sold bezel and screw-down case back. The of getting your paws on a jewel like this. separately. The sales description is as dial is double sunk. That is, the hour and This Hampden is considered a nice, follows: 17 jewels, ruby jewels in com­ minute track are on one level. The middle grade timepiece. It's not the most position settings, expansion balance with Hampden name occupies the middle expensive nor the least expensive pro­ meantime screws, double sunk glass level and the small seconds hand track duced, just a nice, comfortable middle enameled dial with red marginal figures, occupies the lowest level-hence, double­ class, like you and I. standard dial heavy Arabic figures, sunk from the main level. I've had this timepiece quite a movement marked "Wm. McKinley." Gang, 1910 ... it's now 1991. while and had taken it for granted, until Here I go again, I'm off on a This gem is 81 years old and still repair­ now. I decided to research its back­ toot! What was 1910 like? What was able, runable, and a good timekeeper to ground since I intended to use it in this happening in the "US of A" then? Check boot. It's a handsome looker, too. Its "Novice" series. Gang, that trip back it out, gang. Take a peek at the "Prelude" 20-year warrant case just gleams and in time was a real experience. Let me and the "Footnote of the Times" at the radiates a good feeling. This dude has tell you about the timepiece before we end of this article. another good 80 years left in it. Say, get into it. It is a Hampden Watch Co. OK ... OK ... we'll get on with what is the life expectancy of today's product. It is 16 size, open face, and the happy work ... and-ahem-commen- "state of the art" timepieces? 40 years? 20 years? 10 years? 5 years? Throw­ away? I opt for throwaway. Can't you just see giving a high school or college graduate or a loved one a "state-of-the art" throwaway? That's 1991 mentality for you. So, now ... this Hampden has a screw-down back and glass bezel. First, we need to loosen both sides either by hand or with a friction cup device as illustrated. Remove the case back. Here we see the logo and case description of the easer. In this instance it's yellow 20-year warrant Dueber. The informa­ tion given on the movement itself is that this is a 17 jewel adjusted Wm. McKinley model, with a safety pinion, made in Canton, Ohio, with the Hampden logo trademark. Safety pinion ... the center wheel is fitted with a screw-off pinion. In the event the mainspring should break, 16 size, open face, Hampden in a 20-year war­ Cased movement held in place by two full­ the recoil of the mainspring barrel will rant Dueber case. headed casing screws. act on the safety pinion, unwinding it

42 Horological Times/January 1991 Mainspring power let down and balance cock Dial side showing hour wheel, cannon pinion, removed. Balance complete still fixed to the balance minute wheel, and intermediate wheel and cock. Note the single roller. bridge.

Barrel bridge removed. Crown wheel, bushings, ratchet wheel, pallet fork, and bridge removed. Fourth wheel, escape wheel, and bridge re­ moved. Winding and setting parts out. from the center wheel. In doing so, it movement fall out from the dial side, removes any chance of damage coursing into your hand and not the floor! I through the train, damaging wheels in know you're new to the game, but You now have a good, clear view of the its wake. And it works as designed, think, OK? With the movement out, balance complete. On one hand you gang! put it in a correct sized movement holder, notice this is an overcoil balance spring The movement is held in place dial down. Just for a minute, look at the (hairspring), and on the other hand by two full-headed casing screws. Some jewels on the Hampden. The jewels this movement uses a single roller. This watches use half-headed screws. Half­ are burnished directly into their indi­ one uses one disk as a roller table and has headed casing screws need to be turned vidual settings and held in place by two mounted on it the roller jewel and the only enough to allow the movement jewel screws each. Now, that is class passing crescent for the pallet fork. to be free from the case ring, whereas workmanship, just one of the many Now that we've got the rela­ full-headed casing screws need to be features that makes this 81-year-old tively delicate balance removed, turn the completely removed. When it's pos­ watch a gem, a class act. When I'm long movement over in your movement sible, let the power of the mainspring gone and 80 years down the road, an­ holder and remove the three hands with down before uncasing by releasing the other young whippersnapper will ex­ a hand remover. Loosen the three side click while holding onto the crown and perience this "quality" of design. dial screws and lift off the dial. With the letting the crown then slip through With the power down, let's dial removed, retighten those dial screws your fingers. Use the bench key, as remove the balance wheel and cock. or you'll lose them. Let's now lift off shown, to also let down the mainspring Loosen the stud screw, remove the the hour wheel with its dial washers, power. One day you will forget this step cock screw, and lift out the cock and cannon pinion intermediate wheel bridge and learn a hard, shocking lesson, and balance complete as a unit. and wheel, and finally the minute wheel. I'll say, "I told you so." Carefully, while the balance Now turn the movement bridge With the casing screws removed, pivot is touching your bench plate, push side up in the movement holder and be remove the glass bezel ring and let the out the stud from the balance cock. sure the power is down; remove the

January 1991 /Horological Times 43 ratchet wheel and crown wheel assemblies you notice the pallet bridge jewel, again PRELUDE and the pallet fork and bridge. I remove it is in a bushing held by two screws 1909 the ratchet and crown wheels first and into the pallet bridge. Now we want to then the pallet fork, but you can do it remove the barrel bridge and mainspring April 4: Commander Robert E. Perry of the other way around if you like. If barrel, along with the center wheel and the United States Navy today planted the the third wheel. flag of the United States at the North The mainspring barrel cover is Pole. on the bottom side according to the way the barrel sits in the movement. July 20: Orville Wright sets a new U.S. There is a square slot on the barrel record - staying in the air one hour, 20 cover that the tip of a screwdriver can minutes and 25 seconds. be inserted into and the cap pried off. Be careful here, there's always a chance November 11: Hawaii, Work begins on a of dislodging the center barrel arbor, naval base at Pearl Harbor. Mainspring barrel-cap-arbor and fresh main­ and also the chance of inadvertently spring. Note the long recurved spring. starting the mainspring out. If this occurs, uncontrolled, the mainspring FOOTNOTE OF THE TIMES and arbor could and will literally explode Year 1910 out of the barrel, causing a good deal of President William H. Taft grief. Ask any old pro! When removing a mainspring from its barrel, do it AWAY January 1: New York, Caruso sings in from your bench area. In the event it first radio broadcast from the stage of the gets away from you, there won't be any Metropolitan Opera. extraneous damage done elsewhere. A nice, fresh mainspring will exhibit a nice January 8: Hubert Latham, French avi­ recoil at its outer end. A set mainspring ator, set a new world altitude record of will be tightly coiled, up to about six 3 ,300 feet. Balance cock with cap and hole jewel settings or seven barrel diameters. Do replace removed. The star-shaped tool is a jewel pusher. that. There are many styles of end March 13: Labor leader John Mitchell pieces. This happens to be a "tee" end. joins clergy in appeal for holiday on Now, we can remove the fourth Sunday, declares, "We don't care what wheel, escape wheel, their bridges, and day it is , but we must have one day of the winding and setting mechanisms. rest." With the jewel pusher, press out the balance cap and hole jewels. These are March 21 : Samuel Clemens & Mark pressed out from the inside or underside Twain died. of the balance cock and from the inside of the pillar plate. If you look close, June 1: Captain Robert Falcon Scott you will see a ding mark, half on the and party left England on an expedition upper cap jewel bushing and half on to be the first to reach the South Pole. the balance cock. They want you to reassemble these parts as marked, also August 27: Thomas Alva Edison dem­ on any other ding-marked jewel bushing/ onstrated his ·latest invention, the "kine­ bridge or bushing/pillar plate combina­ tophone" which combines the sound of Top - Screw bezel removal cup. Bottom Left - tion. the phonograph with the images of the Sleeve wrench. Right - Jewel pusher. Next time we will cover hand motion picture camera. cleaning and machine cleaning pocket watches. We will include ideas on home­ September 5: France, Marie Curie dem­ made cleaning solutions and take a peek onstrates transformation of radium ore to at what one watchmaker of 1910 has to metal at the Academy of Science. say about cleaning and so on. What ya say, gang? Ya comin' November 19 : New U.S. football rules back? Be lookin' for ya! appear successful, season's deaths re­ ported at 14, down from last year's 24. REFERENCES American Pocket Watches , Shugart From: Chronicle of the 20th Century , American Pocket Watch, Ehrhardt Editor: Clifton Daniel From left to right: 3 screwdrivers used, move­ Ontario Watchmakers Association's r:nent holder, hand puller, and three power Watch Age List let down bench keys. Me (Jim Adams)

44 Horological Times/January 1997 STRIKE RACK Figure 7 (Continued from page 41)

First, the cutter is mounted upside-down on an arbor. This means it will have to turn the opposite of a conventional or right-hand cutter. This is necessary so the cutter can be pre­ sented to the circumference of the rack without the "high" part of the rack crowding or touching the cutter arbor. Figure 6 would show this if I had not messed up the photo of the actual rack being cut. Imagine the area on the rack below the cutter in Figure 6 as if it were shaped like the rack in Figure 3. Make sure the method of attaching the cutter to its arbor is sufficiently secure that it can't unscrew since the cut­ Figure 8 ter will be revolving backwards. The load or strain on the cut­ ter will be light enough that this is possible. On heavier cutting a setup of this type would be dangerous. Next, mount the dividing head on the milling ma­ chine. In this case it is held in the milling vise using two paral­ lels-metal stock of equal thickness-as spacers for the divider base to sit upon, so that it is reasonably aligned with the table of the miller. Attach the chosen index. Now, insert the man­ drel selected to hold the rack blank, fit the supporting spacers and the blank to the mandrel, and bring the blank into prox­ imity with the cutter. To align the cutter, securely hold a straight-edge such the teeth are not cut to an unnecessarily sharp point. The size as a six-inch steel rule against the uppermost, flat surface of and kind of rack, among various considerations, will govern the cutter (see Figure 7). Raise or lower the milling table until how thin the tips of teeth have to be. Second, the cutter sharp­ the flat portion of the cutter is on a radius with the mandrel ness, speed, and stability of the blank all determine whether and thus the rack blank. The flat side of the rack tooth, acted the teeth can be cut in one pass, or if the teeth should be cut upon by the gathering pallet, should be on the radius; the fine in two or three passes bringing the rack to final form. The feed points of this part of the setup are left to the imagination of should be very slow and steady. the reader. I would, however, suggest that insertion of an ac­ Normally for this kind of job I advance the work in­ curately pointed center is one of several alternative methods to the cutter until the cut produces a nearly fully cut tooth, available for determining alignment of a cutter. Variations of leaving about .005" for a finish cut. The only way to deter­ the alignment method are nearly limitless. mine the depth of cut here is to advance the cutter a little Adjust the milling head speed to 700 rpm or less. at a time, cut the second tooth, return to the first space, cut Next, rotate the dividing index to the position closest to where some more, etc. Usually, a visual check will determine when the first tooth of the rack should be cut. If the closest posi­ the cut is deep enough. After that is established, proceed to tion seems too far from ideal, loosen the blank on its mandrel cut the appropriate number of teeth. slightly, and reposition it. There is no serious reason to limit the number of I tend to be very cautious. At this point, bring the teeth cut ·until you come to the end of the blank, but if you cutter nearly in contact with the blank and turn on the milling have a pattern which allows you to know in advance how machine. Action at last. Advance the work into the cutter a many teeth to cut, it is possible to make a nicer looking end to thousandth or two at a time until there is audible evidence of the finished rack when there is extra stock to play with. On contact. Move the work to the left of the cutter, as in Figure the other hand, if there is doubt because the pitch was 8. (Remember, the cutter will be turning counterclockwise in changed, or the original rack was missing, cut more teeth than this operation.) There should be a faint mark in the edge of might seem necessary. This is always the safest course. Fifteen the blank. Advance the index and take another pass. Do it or sixteen teeth would be normal and are reasonable. again. When there are several light marks on the blank it is If the available cutter was not wide enough at points possible to determine if the spacing of the teeth looks reason­ XY, Figure 5, the milling table should be raised enough to able. All of our calculations and measurements were careful, make up for the deficiency, and another pass taken. In this and of course, the spacing looks perfect. step, all of the action will take place on the curved part of the And away we go! Advance the cutter about .100" teeth being cut. There will also be a double notch at the root closer to the blank while the blank is far enough to the left or bottom of each rack tooth. This is harmless, but unsightly; of the cutter (Figure 8) so that it is clear of the work. Slowly it can be corrected by a half-round file when the rack is de­ move the work into the cutter. Apply a little cutting oil with a tailed. brush. Notice that this direction of presenting work to the cut­ When the last tooth is cut, and a finish cut is com­ ter causes all resistance and pressure of the cutter to push pleted, make a visual check to be sure everything is as intended against the supports of the blank. In machine shop parlance or expected; then the rack can be removed from the mandrel this is called "up milling." It means the work is pushed against for completion. the cutter and the cutter cannot pull the work into itself. We have now developed and milled a rack ready to Advance the index to the next position, take a sec­ be given its final shape and fitted to the clock for which it was ond cut, and determine whether the tip of the one rack tooth made. Next month we shall consider how to finish, install, and which now exists is narrow enough. Two points: In my opin­ adjust the new rack. For those who can't wait, be sure to ion, the rack will withstand more wear, accidents, or abuse if check the relation of the rack hook to the gathering pallet. D

January 1991 /Horological Times 45 Paul D. Wadsworth

On Forming a Guild

hope that you have started to make your plans for The mail has been full of newsletters from many of I the upcoming Affiliate Chapter meeting in June. It's the chapters. It seems that there are many of you who have never too early to start planning the annual trip to our head­ good articles for your local newsletter. If anyone has something quarters. that they would like to share with the entire membership, it This year has started out rather quietly here in New could be included in this column as well. York state. We're in the process of getting a nonprofit status I just received a postcard from Georgia asking about from the IRS. It seems that they require a form to fill out, and information on forming a guild. As of now it seems that they the estimated time to complete it is enough to train an appren­ have gotten the basics from Mike Danner, Alice Carpenter, and tice in the fine art of watch repair. If any of you have any Jim Adams. It might be a good idea to go over the basics again questions about what you might do to avoid this, please let for anyone interested in starting a guild. One of the first things me know. Maybe it would be a good topic for some future ar­ needed are some ambitious people to take charge and schedule ticle . the meetings. The next thing needed: at least 15 members of This month I had the privilege to go to the Detroit AWi who are also members of your association or guild. From area on business, and I stopped in to see an old friend, "Pat" here on, it's all downhill. AWi requires that you submit a copy Monk. He was sitting in his living room, watching the geese of your constitution and by-laws for review by the Constitu­ and other birds just outside the window. He told me that the tion & By-laws Committee. If writing such a document is not back of his yard is part of a wildlife preserve. Perhaps that's to your liking, AWI has a generic set that can be adopted to why the person who drives around with the Michigan plate your own situation. "TIME" on his car is considering another book. Someone said The next thing you'll need to do is send in the that watchmakers never retire-they just write books and application along with a fee of $50. The annual fee is the same watch wildlife. each year thereafter. AWI will try to schedule some seminars in the area if they think there might be enough interest. This should stir up some of those that don't want to get involved in the business of running a guild. Support After your guild is accepted by AWI as an Affiliate Chapter, you have access to the vast lending library of horo­ logical programs. Another benefit is the policy of helping the The AWi-ELM TRUST chapters with sending a delegate to the annual meeting in June. AWI will pay $200 towards the expenses of a delegate SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM if the chapter has at least 15 AWI members, and a minimum of BY SENDING YOUR 60% of their total membership belongs to AWi. Wow, what a OLD WATCH BATTERIES deal!-$50 dues and $200 back for an enjoyable and educa­ TO THE tional trip! - ~C?:- Last year I mailed out a letter to the watchmakers in ~t.\ AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS the Albany, NY area, in hopes that they would get enough !l1> • ~o/T .-: i-: INSTITUTE members to form their own Affiliate Chapter. I just got the \ -...:: •· .} 3700 Harrison Avenue report that they are still short a few people for the 15 mini­ -~-:; , Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 mum. Even without, they are still meeting monthly, and hope­ fully a few more will see the advantages, and join.

46 Horological Times/January 1991 Wuischpard, who were among the 30 individuals contacted. The first electric watch was produced by the Lancas­ Assoc1ATION NEWS ter-based Hamilton Watch Company, then in its 60th year, and in the twilight of the American watch manufacturing history. An electric watch, they decided, would be the item to reju­ venate this ailing, aged company. CALIFORNIA The Hamilton Company already was placing their hal­ At the November 27th meeting of the San Diego Horological lowed name on Swiss imports. They hoped such an item would Society, Davidson's Jewelers Supply made a presentation. do much to restore some of the old glory of the past as well as They brought all materials, straps, tools, catalogs, technical some of the potential profits that such an item might bring. files, etc. The member turnout was great and the presentation The research department's first was an electric watch conceived was a huge success. in 1947 and patented by Arthur E. Fidlinger in 1951. This watch had a magnetically propelled balance, made in an era when the button-sized battery was not yet commercially avail­ NEW YORK able. The Horological Society of New York held a meeting on Fred Koehler, who first aided in developing Hamil­ November 5, 1990 at the Novotel Hotel in New York. Charles ton's famed marine chronometer, later made the model pat­ Sauter, a member, gave a lecture. ented in 1953, but still not the ultimate Model 500. Stimu­ Mr. Sauter is an engineer and horologist. He was lated by a rumor that the Elgin Watch Company was also in involved in the first mass-produced ship's chronometer at the process of creating an electric watch, Mr. John Van Horn, Hamilton, in the special Bulova Accutron model that was then Hamilton's chief physicist, suggested that a balance carry­ used in the moon shot, and headed watch manufacturing ing the current in a flat coil on it similar to most galvanome­ facilities in various parts of the world and a metallurgy re­ ters would be more efficient. search center in the United States. In addition, he owned clock Various prototypes, according to Rondeau, were factories and now owns a clock parts company. tried, including the use of a vibrating reed (a forecast of the Mr. Sauter's talk covered banjo clocks, unbreakable Accutron tuning fork). This also was abandoned as being too mainsprings, and the sealed barrel. His description of the expensive to produce. work on unbreakable mainsprings was quite a revelation. He The effort to have Union Carbide produce a small achieved an unbreakable mainspring without the use of expen­ watch battery ~s also recounted. Van Horn, Biemiller, and sive new alloys. His research proved that merely by changing Reese, with Koehler, successfully persuaded National Carbon the shape of the spring-eliminating uneven stress-the spring (Union Carbide/Eveready) to create such cells. would not break. He also invented the sealed barrel. Prototypes were continually produced, and in 1954 a watch with two cobalt-platinum plugs were made, resulting in the birth of the Model 500-yet still not ready for the market. Rondeau writes about the field tests undergone by the model in strict secrecy. Thus on Thursday, January 3, 1957, an important press conference revealed this landmark model. A press photo showed the new electric watch beside an BOOK REVIEW old 17th century watch which they termed a "Nuremberg Egg" of 1480. (This was wrong on both counts; there was no such thing as a Nuremberg Egg and the anachronous leap backwards into 1480.) THE WATCH OF THE FUTURE: The Story of the Hamilton The Ventura, Rondeau says, was designed by Richard Electric Watch by Rene Rondeau. Soft covers, 6x8%'', 94 Arbib, head of Hamilton's design department. Arbib also de­ pages, 111 illustrations. Pub. 1989 by the author @ $15 .95, signed some of the more odd-shaped watch cases as well. c/o Draper & Esquin, 655 Davis St., San Francisco, CA 94111. A chapter deals with the numerous problems en­ countered in that era before tiny transistors or spark-suppress­ This small book tells a big story of the Hamilton Watch Com­ ing diodes would appear. Coil tolerances were critical with the pany in the decade in which they strove to be the first on the spoilage rate in a very great majority of cases during early market with a battery-driven electric watch. In the narration, stages of production. the reader learns about much more than the Model 500 Another problem was to train the watchmakers in which eventually achieved that distinction. the field to accept these for repair as well as to train them in Rene Rondeau has done a dedicated job of research­ the repair procedures. The initial apathy by the jeweler and ing this watch. He has traveled and interviewed personally all watchmaker was a major problem. Neither had ever learned the surviving principals who were involved in its final commer­ about electrical matters, no less than that concerned with cial debut. In this we come across the names of James Reese, timepieces. the co-inventor, and Fred Koehler, among many others. Also In all, this book relates the tremendous task of not interviewed was William Bennett, who later became the co­ only prodlfcing a reliable product but selling it to the wary inventor of the Accutron when he transferred to Bulova, trade. It became so great a problem that, according to Ron­ Richard Blakinger, Paul Lichty, Egbert Van Haaften, and John deau, to quote, "So by the end of the decade, Hamilton not

January 1991/Horo!ogica/ Times 47 only welcomed new competition, they willingly shared their For a book of such modest size and title, it contains experiences." a great deal of historical and technical information. Anyone Four years later a fairly well-engineered, reliable, and who is even mildly interested in Hamilton's products and his­ easier to repair movement-the Model 505- was marketed. tory, or of the American watch manufacturing saga, would Nowhere, however, is mentioned the excellent, minutely il­ surely profit from its well-researched contents. The excellent­ lustrated manual by William 0 . Smith, Jr., then still in his ly put-together facts and figures tell much of the inside story teens as an instructor at his father's Western Pennsylvania of a famed watch manufacturer. Horological Institute. This manual was by far the best exposi­ tion on the repair of the difficult-to-adjust Model 500. This model and rights to republish were bought from young Smith QUARTZ MOVEMENT REFERENCE, Zantech Corporation. and became the official manual for this watch. Smith later 5W'x8W', 92 pages, about 700 listings, 18 pages of move­ went on to become head of the horology department at the ment photos. Pub. 1990 by Zantech, Inc., 77 Shady Lane, Parkland (Illinois) Junior College. Trenton, NJ 08619@$17.95. Timex also had produced very workable electric watches, including a ladies' model. While the Swiss and the This is a ring-bound book which lists the quartz movements French soon followed, it was Bulova with its highly success­ from the following 27 producers: Bulova, Certina, Chopard, ful Accutron and its transistorized tuning fork that doomed Citizen, Concord, Corum, Ebel, Ebosa, Enicar, ESA, Eterna, the electric watch altogether. (France) Ebauche, Girard Perregeaux, Harley (Ronda), Isa, The book also includes a short review of the Accu­ Jaeger-Lecoultre, Longines, Myota, Movado , Omega, Piaget, tron and the popular transistor explosion of electronic devices, Pulsar, PUW, Ricoh, Seiko, and Tissot. including watches. The catalog lists all types of quartz movements, many This little book packs much information in its 94 available from Zantech. These are listed in sizes from 6* x 8 pages. Included are the details of refinements to this pioneer lignes (9 x 15.15 mm) to 11 ~ lignes (25 .00 mm). These in­ Model 500, the subsequent models-505, 507, 511-and even clude movements with sweep seconds, day, date, month, dual those with calendar mechanisms in the 1965-1966 era, which time, moonphase, sun, special features, date at the 12 posi­ by this time their electric watches were quietly laid to rest. tion, those with LCDs, countdown, alarm, digianas, 24 hour, Hamilton, though, came through again in flying chronograph, stopwatch, and those with light-emitting diodes. colors with Theiss and Crabtree, two electronic engineers This catalog lists every movement by factory name, assigned their solid-state digital quartz watch to Hamilton for factory movement number, diameter, thickness, functions, refinement and production, resulting in the Pulsar-the first hand (hole) size, the battery it uses, and the movement with "no moving parts" solid-state wristwatch. which it interchanges. The book covers care and maintenance, batteries, and The movement numbers listed are all company des­ conversions to quartz by the retrofit process. The factory ignations. It is in alphabetical order, starting with Bulova's manuals (not Smith's) are included in the repair of the 500 263 different listings in numerical order. The interchangeabil­ and 505 models. ity columns indicate which models outside one company label The book also illustrates all of Hamilton's electric can be used. For example: A Bulova 6271.17 would fit exact­ watch models, with 73 different type cases and dials. There is ly to a Myota caliber 2Y5 I. Thus, of all of Bulova's listed also an insert giving the current value of each model. models, 17 8 of the 263 can be interchanged with other well­ fitting substitutes. Of Certina's 80 models listed, only 11 will accept interchanges. Chopard has none. Citizen has 215 models. Only one, a Tissot 2035 model, will do for the 2030A BUSINESSMAN SHARES Citizen. Some brand names such as Corum, Movado, and EXPERIENCE WITH STUDENTS Piaget supply the Ebauche caliber numbers. According to AT JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Louis Zanoni, this new catalog is the world's most compre­ hensive in the world. Since the beginning of August, a New York busi· Myota's movements, for example, are difficult to nessman, Herb Liebman, has been sharing his identify. Therefore, this catalog identifies each of these by knowledge and experience with students of the photography, with its name, model number, and dimen­ Joseph Bulova School in Woodside, NY. Each sions. A section of visual identification shows the movement week Mr. Liebman conducts at the school a and dial side of each model. Thus, ESA also is represented by 1%-hour seminar on how to start and manage a 108 views of their quartz models. Myota has 33 photographic small business. Such information is invaluable representations, Pulsar 51, and PUW has 14. to Joseph Bulova School students who are Mr. Zanoni said that unlike other lists of interchange­ studying the school's watch, jewelry, and elec­ ability, his company's listings indicate only those that instan­ tronics programs, and who may want to go into taneously can be fitted ; no dial, hands, or adjustment required. their own business or seek outside employment. This reference manual is the first and most complete Herb Liebman is President and Co-Founder of of its kind, and it should be a great help to those watchmakers A.L. Liebman & Son, Inc. in Woodside, NY. doing any quartz repairs. He nry B. F ne· d

48 Horological Times/January 1991 SCHOLASTICALLY

SPEAI(ING Jim Lubic

A SUCCESS STORY

his is the story of how the American Watchmakers In­ T stitute and an REC (Research and Education Council) school can help someone get a start in the field of horology. The photo with this story depicts three people-namely, Mark Gasser, Harold Fehrman, and Bob Gasser from Gasser & Son Jewelers in Canton, Ohio. Now the stage is set, and the story goes like this: Harold Fehrman came to the Ohio Valley Watchmak­ ing Institute in November of 1988 wanting to be a watch­ maker. He worked hard and came to class every day. He learned how to use the watchmaker's lathe to make a stem and a staff. He learned how to disassemble and assemble various move­ ments. He learned restaffing, truing and poising of balance wheels, friction jeweling and hairsprings, including the escape­ ment and timing. After Harold learned the basics of watchmaking, he worked with autowind and calendar mechanisms, as well as alarms, stopwatches, and chronographs. After a great deal of Left to right: Mark Gasser, Harold Fehrman, and Bob Gasser. practice with mechanical watches, Harold learned about elec­ for the Gasser firm. tronic, tuning fork, digital and quartz analog. In order to do The moral of the story: Determination, a good, solid this, he had to learn the basics of electricity and how to read background in watchmaking, and AWi all add up to success. a volt-ohmmeter. Harold worked hard. He read lots of books, took A reminder to all AWi-REC instructors: It's time to weekly quizzes and periodic tests. While Harold was in school, start planning for the annual meeting in June 1991. Remember he took the time to go to area guild meetings. He also par­ that there's a $200 stipend from AWi if 60% or more of your ticipated in an AWi bench course entitled "Useful Techniques" students are members of AWi. This is to help offset the cost instructed by Jim Adams. of attending the annual meeting. During the bench course, Harold met a watchmaker Encourage your students to take the Certified Watch­ by the name of Millard Willen. Millard told Harold of the need makers exam. Joe Presti of Vibrograf USA has agreed to do­ for a good watchmaker at the store he worked for back in nate a Reno-Quick Checker again this year to the REC school Canton, Ohio. Mr. Will•m told Harold how the store had been whose student receives the highest passing grade on the Certi­ in business since 1937 and was a fourth generation family fied Watchmakers exam. Also, this award needs a name .. . business. Millard also talked of the high quality work that was See you in June! expected of the three watchmakers employed at the Gasser firm. Harold came back to class telling the other students of HERMLE SUPPORTS his experiences, and he was motivated to continue to do well AWi EDUCATION EFFORTS in his studies. Franz Hermie & Sohn, clock manufacturers In December of 1989 Harold took AWi's Certified from Gosheim, Germany, has donated ten strik­ Watchmaker exam. Then early in 1990 Harold received the ing clock movements, Calibre 340-020. This is good news-he passed! He finished his studies and graduated in the clock with floating balance which we use in March of 1990. In June, Harold learned that he had received the "Advanced Clock Repair" class taught by the highest score of any REC student that had taken the Cer­ John P. Kenyon. The clock movements we've tified Watchmakers exam over the past year, thereby entitling been using in the course are completely worn the Ohio Valley Watchmaking Institute to a Reno-Quick out. We are grateful to Helmut Mangold, Plant Checker donated by Joe Presti of Vibrograf USA. Manager of Hermie Black Forest Clocks, Am­ Harold's next step was to contact John Gasser & Son hurst, VA, and Gerhard Schneider of Franz Jewelers in Canton, Ohio about a position as watchmaker. "Re­ Hermie & Sohn, Gosheim, Germany, for their cently, in September, Harold and his wife Sally moved to Can­ efforts in making these clocks available. ton, where Harold is working out very well as a watchmaker

January 1991 /Horological Times 49 New Products and Literature

TWO NEW LAMPS FROM DRS, INC:. Dazor LM-150 : This new twin tube fluorescent lamp from Dazor offers 30% more light output than its predecessor due to a new high­ luster mirror reflector. In addi­ tion to the stylish new look, elec­ tronic advances have solved the problems of flickering lights and accidental shocks. Counter-bal­ anced arm has 30" reach and is mounted on a universal base which can be either clamped or screwed to a jewelers workbench. Available in black, gray, or al­ Dazor LM-150 twin tube fluores­ mond. List price : $170.00; DRS cent lamp available from DRS. introductory price: $129.00. Dazor Halogen Flex Lamp: This new lamp is ideal for highlighting showcase jewelry. The clean, white, concentrated light of halo· gen offers exceptional color ren­ derinr. ability that enhances the natural beauty of diamonds and other precious stone jewelry. The 12-volt, 20-watt halogen source is energy-efficient with a bulb MADE FOR EACH OTHER: life of 2000 hours. Equipped with TUXEDO AND MOTHER-OF-PEARL a 30" flexible arm, it is available Enhancing the Tuxedo Collection for 1991, Bulova has introduced a with a desk base, or clamp-on new duet with rich details and unique design. model (for work.bench). List A luminous mother-of-pearl dial provides the background for price: $108.flO; DRS introductory this handsome and sophisticated pair. The subtly shaped goldtone price: $79.00. Dazor halogen flex lamp for high­ case is etched with gilt Roman numerals on its bezel and is offset Both lamps are available lighting showcase jewery; from by an elegant lizard strap. DRS. from DRS, Inc., 56 W. 47th St., Additional features include sapphire crystals and cases which New York, NY 10a36; (800) are water resistant to 100 feet. The models shown are: His (92P52), 223-8960; (212) 819-0237. and Hers (92H84), with a suggested retail price of $395.00 each. Available from: Bulova Corp., One Bulova Ave., Woodside, NY 11377; (718) 204-3300. 14K GOLD CHAINS AVAILABLE FROM BATT-TRONIC: CORP. Curb, rope, and cable chains are GESSWEIN WAX in stoc:~ for immediate delivery MODEL MAKING KIT from Batt-Tronic. Available in Gesswein has a new kit for de­ 16" and 18" lengths, these chains signing jewelry in wax. It is ideal are fine quality 14K plumb gold. for the designer or manufacturer Rope chains are medium weight; and is an economical way to set curb and cable chains are light­ up a design workshop. This Gess­ weight. All chains are individually wein exclusive contains all the carded and have 14K gold spring tools, waxes, and instruction ring and tag assembly. Retailer's books necessary for wax model cost range, based on $400 gold, is Batt-Tronic's 14K gold chains. making. $8.50 to $13.75. For more information, B~tt-Tronic also stocks contact Gesswein, P.O. Box 3998, Gesswein's wax model making kit 14K gold earring mountings and for jewelers. The kit contains (800) 431-2828; NY state (800) 255 Hancock Ave., Bridgeport, all the equipment needed to start ear nuts. For a catalog or more 942-1944, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., Mon. CT 06605; (203) 366-5400, ext. wax model making. information, contact: Batt-Tronic: through Fri. 284.

50 Horological Times/January 1991 News in the Trade

A REMINDER: NEW by industry experts from the DATE AND PLACE FDR Jewelers Vigilance Committee JA'S 1991 SPRING SHOW (JVC), the Federal Trade Com­ Jewelers of America's 1991 mission (FTC), and the U.S. Spring International Jewelry Attorney's office. Show will be taking place at the The full -day conference Javits Convention Center on will be held at the San Francisco January 31-February 3, 1991. Diamond and Jewelry Mart on These dates show a departure Saturday, February 23, 1991, be­ from the original days with ginning at 9:00 a.m. Thursday, January 31 being the Keynote speaker Joel opening day and Sunday, February Windman, Executive Vice Presi­ 3 being the Closing day. dent of the JVC, will give an over­ view of the National Stamping ON-SITE REGISTRATION Act, karating, and gold marking FOR "EARL YBIRDS" laws. Other featured speakers at For jewelers arriving in New York the conference include U.S. At­ on Wednesday, January 30th, the torney Bill McGivern, who will day before JA's 1991 Spring address the issue of karating; Jer­ SEIKO PRESENTS QUARTZ CLOCK TROPHY Show opens, there will be special ome Steiner, attorney with the AND $5,000 CHECK TO HORSE SHOW WINNER "Earlybird" registration facili­ FTC, who will discuss new FTC Mrs. Kayoko Tomizawa (front), prominent equestrian sponsor from ties so that they can avoid the laws and guidelines; plus a trade­ Japan and a member of the Hattori family, and Mr. David Strousse lines of opening day, and receive mark attorney and representa­ (left), Assistant to the President of Seiko Corp. of America, present their admission badges and Show tives of the District Attorney's a quartz clock trophy and $5,000 check to Alice Debany, winner of information material upon their office. the International Open Jumper World Cup Grand Prix on opening arrival. "The AGA is dedicated to night of the annual National Horse Show at the Meadowlands. Ms. The schedule for "Early­ helping those in the jewelry in­ Debany rode The Natural, and completed the course in the time of bird" registration is 12:00 noon dustry understand these complex 29.19 seconds. Standing with them is David Lindh, director of the to 5:00 p.m. on Wednesday, Jan­ issues and laws by presenting this National Horse Show. Seiko has been the official timer and a spon­ uary 30th, in the Crystal Palace hands-on conference with the ex­ sor the National Horse Show for the past 20 years. area of Javits Convention Cen­ perts. These subjects are things ter. that every jeweler has to know in For more information, the 90's-facts that they really For more information, Schulz, a former Marine, contact: JA, Inc., Rockefeller can't afford not to know," said contact: Cortney Balzan, (415) resides in Plano, Texas with his Center, 1271 Avenue ofthe AGA President Cortney Balzan. 454-8553 or (415) 454-0925. wife Barbara. Americas, New York, NY 10020; Following a luncheon in (212) 489-0023. the Mart Atrium, a hands-on ses­ sion will be held at which time conference attendees can hold DON SCHULZ APPOINTED SFDJM LAUNCHES SERIES one-on-one discussions with each DIRECTOR/SALES OF EDUCATIONAL speaker and noted jewelry leaders. LONGINES-WITTNAUER CONFERENCES WITH AGA Otto Frei of Frei and Borel will The appointment of Don Schulz In a concerted effort to protect demonstrate gold-testing proce­ to the position of Director/Sales, Mart tenants and patrons from dures and display the newest Southern Region for Longines­ what has become a pervasive machinery available, and sample Wittnauer was announced by problem in the jewelry industry forms for trademarking and certi­ John L. Davis, President of nationwide, the San Francisco fying will be handed out and ex­ Longines-Wittnauer. Diamond and Jewelry Mart plained. Experts from the World In announcing the pro­ (SFDJM), in conjunction with the Gold Council, San Francisco Met­ motion, Davis noted that Don Accredited Gemologists Associ­ allurgical Laboratory, Inc., Seiko Schulz has one of the finest track ation (AGA) is launching the first Instruments, and trade press will records in the jewelry industry. of a four-part series of educa­ also be on hand. "He is an outstanding Longines­ tional conferences aimed at The fee for the conference, Wittnauer veteran who has "self-policing" in the areas of which includes luncheon, parking, earned the respect of his associ­ Mr. Don Schulz trademarking, underkarating, and the hands-on demonstration ates and the trust of his jewelers. gold-testing, and certification. session, is $85.00 for AGA, His abilities, his energy, and his These issues, now of great GIA, and WJA members. Non­ knowledge will contribute sub­ concern to jewelry retailers, members registering before Feb­ stantially to an even closer as­ wholesalers, appraisers, and manu­ ruary 1, 1991 pay $95.00, and sociation with our southern jewel­ facturers alike, will be addressed $110.00 after that date. ers."

January 1991 /Horological Times 51 Classified Ads

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.60 per word, $.70 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $25.00 per column inch, 2Y.." wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and hand I ing. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. June issue closed for copy on May 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838

CLOCK WHEEL AND PRECISJO:-.; Tl\IL-TLCH Tradesman SL'n i'-·c ;rnd r L'!'doratio11 of Roll'\. l'i;1,gl' I. Pa h:k Pliilippl', PINION CUTTING \ ' ;.i,,:hl'ro11-Co11sl'\FTSI l11f JSHIP & QLJ,'.,LITY WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR: Write for Brochures l Watch wheel Cutting • Repivoting •Staffing • VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. l * TICK·O·PRINT/L&R We can make any part--i'estore any watch WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS AND OTHER 58 W. SUGARTREE l WATCH·RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT P.O. BOX 970 1 Europe;:rn WJtch & CJsemJkers Ltd JACK PHILLIPS • ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE I (J f'11 1 11 • f-l11l1l111il f' 11I fJlil, lf)l 1 ,J J 24 LA GOMA AVENUE MILL VALLEY, CA 94941 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 I FOR INFORMATION CALL: (415) 381·1338 ~------~ C.1111201I931 5611 101 111101111.111011 & 1rle1Plll('S 52 Horological Times/January 1991 CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed re bushing. REP AIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, lowest prices-as low as $2.30. 2-yr. guarantee. pocket watches. ROY H. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, Large selection of hands and numerals. Free MURPHY'S 101 E. Saint Joe Drive,. Spirit Lake, Idaho delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. HALL 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, CRYSTAL SERVICE NC 28205. FAST- QUALITY WORK QUALITY WATCH CRYSTAL FITTING. Fast service. Expert Crystal Fitting. New & Old HERSCHEDE * 24 hour turnaround on most jobs Styles. KIRK CRYSTAL CO., 4th & Pike Bldg., 9-TUBE GRANDFATHER CLOCK Suite 823, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 622-7639. (Sheffield) with beveled glass. Russ Soraci, 314 * Very competitive prices E. 4th Street, Loveland, CO 80537; (303) 669-6604 or 669-3080. * Specializing in custom cut flat mineral glass crystals Articles for Sale AMERICAN GRANDFATHER CLOCKS (4) * Latest state of the art equipment with one-day wooden works movements. "It's About Time" (919) 851-3073. CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST ANTIQUE ROLL-TOP WATCHMAKERS BENCH, excellent condition, with locking PHONE (209) 576-8865 device, 43 V.. X 23%. Best offer. (716) 663-0964. START YOUR OWN TRADE SHOP 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. Learn how to start your own watch repair MODESTO, CA 95355 USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, EQUIP­ trade shop. With this 90 minute audio MENT, MATERIAL, SUPPLIES, WATCHES, cassette you will learn: MOVEMENTS, AND RELATED ITEMS. Write How to stock your trade shop. or call for our latest list. Tom Mister, Dashto How to figure out a price list. Jewelers, 983 Providence Square Shopping TELECHRON and HAMMOND rotors rebuilt. How to get work. Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) Write for prices. Also clock motors, send Business advice. 495-2471. motor and SASE for estimate. THE CLOCK What to do and not to do. TRADER, P.O. Box 21, Lahaska, PA 18931; Bench tips. (215) 794-3163. And much, much more. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE To order. send $15.00 by check or money P.O. Box 221121 San Diego, CA 92192 order to: STAR AUDIO PRODUCTIONS, CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, (619) 461-0115 or (619) 280-3688 material and tools. Custom made to order or P.O. Box 9659, College Station, TX 77842. repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, Atwater, OH 44201 ; (216) 947-2268. HALLER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHAN­ ICAL - QUARTZ - ELECTRONIC - CIRCUIT BOARDS - MAINSPRINGS - SUSPENSION NEW Electronic Timing Machines DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, SPRINGS and MOVEMENTS, ETC. FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452.

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Hairsprings Vibrated All units made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete Ac~e p'.: 1 ~ g 11rn tec: 11 u1;ic2r ol 11 ew acc c~n ts with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 stamps for info & our new 1990 Catalog of Hair Springing, Ltd. Horological Literature. ~ Adams Brown Co., Box 357, 280 Constitution Circle • P. 0. Box 166 ~ Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609) 655-8269 No . Brunswick, NJ 08902-0166 • (201 l 247·3021

January 1991 /Horological Times 53 Classified Ads

Articles for Sale Help Wanted American Reprints Co.

HAMILTON MILITARY MATERIAL AN EXCITING OPPORTUNITY *** BOOK REVIEWED *** Original factory. Marine chronometer, deck THE DIAMOND CELLAR in Columbus, Ohio This Issue - Page 4 7 watch, mod. 23, 4992B. Limited supply other is looking for an experienced Master Watch­ THE WATCH OF THE FUTURE: THE models. R.L. Ravel Co., Box 32, Devon, PA maker. Our store sells Ebel and Rolex watches. STORY OF THE HAMILTON ELECTRIC 19333. These watches would represent 90% of the WATCH by Rene Rondeau ....• $15.95 work to be done. Factory training available to the right candidate. We have excellent working NEW!!! LATHES - Collets - Drawbars - Carbide & conditions and benefits. Let us offer a "home­ VINTAGE AMERICAN & EUROPEAN Center Drills - Tools - Etc. Send LSASE & like" family atmosphere to the right person. WRIST WATCH PRICE GUIDE #5 by dollar for list and sample. D. Eiman, 6579 If you think you have the right stuff, send your Erhardt/Demesy ...•....•..• $25.00 N. Harrison, Fresno, CA 93711. resume to: Jeffrey S. Johnson, The Johnson's SCANLON/ AMERICAN REPRINTS CO. Family Diamond Cellar, 5025 Arlington Centre P.O. Box 379 Modesto, CA 95353 Blvd., Columbus, Ohio 43220; 1-800-222-6642. (209) 667-2906 FAX (209) 521-2777 CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL CLOCKMAKER - Southeast Florida store Save time, money, and work re-covering seeking dependable and experienced clock­ bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor­ maker for full-time or part-time position. Schools mation, send business-size S.A.S.E. to: Write Box HW191, Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. JANDi GOGGIN LAURIE PENMAN'S CLOCK COURSE ANNOUNCEMENT Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 Learn clock repair and clockmaking in a new WATCHMAKER: Newport Beach, California way-at home from a practicing clockmaker. guild store seeking European old school watch­ Laurie Penman's correspondence clock courses maker. Must have minimum 15 years experi­ are different! After receiving the start-up pack­ --~~--7t: c41e-: ------~ ence on complicated mechanical watches as age, YOU call up the next subject from over 40 Utied 1Patclt m"ve111e.11u Patek, Audemars, etc. Call manager at (714) course books. We do not send you information 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 644-8325. MOBOCO FINE JEWELRY & you already have. Over 250,000 words on clock­ GEMS. Mr. Watchmaker - If you have a prob­ making, prop-up cards of drawings and notes lem finding parts for older watches, for the bench, and personal answers to prob­ badly rusted or damaged beyond repair, lems. From an established maker/restorer of we may be able to help you. We have NEEDED - ONE WATCH REPAIRMAN AND antique and modem clocks, a completely lots of movements for parts at reason­ ONE EXPERIENCED JEWELER. Pioneer practical approach to clockmaking whether able prices. Some suitable for replace­ Coins & Jewelry, 407 E. Grand, Ponca City, simple or exotic. Stateside or Continental. ment. If not satisfactory you may re­ OK 74601; (405) 762-8190. Full details from USA Agent Steven G. Con­ turn. over, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA Phone (301) 463-6595 19607 or Laurie Penman, 61 High Street, EXPERIENCED CLOCK BENCH PERSON Totnes TQ9 5PB, England. NEEDED. Excellent wages. Watch repair ex­ perience helpful, but not necessary. Locate to Connecticut. Call Mr. Norskog (203) 246-3516. Business for Sale

CLOCK SHOP - Sales and repairs of clocks and Situations Wanted watches in beautiful downtown Loveland, Colorado. Russ Soraci, 314 E. 4th St., Love­ land, CO 80537; (303) 669-6604 or 669-3080. WATCHMAKER NEEDS EMPLOYMENT Willing to relocate to a permanent job. Have own tools. S. Warren, 582 W. 4925 South, Ogden, Utah 84405; (801) 479-5312. WATCH - CLOCK RETAIL AND REPAIR JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL BUSINESS. l'j,ORTHERN LOWER MICHIGAN. (616) 347-0207. 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 Books Phone (718) 424-2929 I Quality Instruction Since 1945 6. CLOCK REPAIR BUSINESS FOR SALE. CHIME CLOCK REPAIR by Steven G. Conover. Established, successful 9 years. Minneapolis, New! Detailed drawings and repair instructions • WATCHMAKING MN (612) 377-9830. for New Haven, Junghans, Kieninger, Hermie, (17 months) Seth Thomas and many more. Also contains • WATCH REPAIR chime melodies, solutions to common prob­ (9 and 13 months) WATCH.CLOCK-JEWELRY REPAIR for trade lems, and the author's method for assembling • JEWELRY REPAIR and retail. Modem equipment, Swiss lathe and adju,sting chime movements. Available • BASIC ELECTRONICS with attachments, large classified inventory only from the publisher, Clockmakers News­ of parts. Great clientele, great place, great Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation letter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA NATTS approved, BEOG available ~otential for growth. Quality work. Good 19607. Hardcover, 210 pages, $28.50 postpaid. income. Offers. 1-800-735-2090. PA residents add 6% sales tax.

54 Horological Times/January 1991 AWi HOTLINE Unusual Pocket Watches & Wristwatches Wanted. Wanted to Buy Especially Patek Philippe, Howard, Illinois, Wal­ (513) 661-4636 tham, Chronometers, Strikers, Moonphase, Tour­ billons, Virgules, Karrusel, Musicals, Historical, and Solid Golds. Early American watches a specialty. O.B. Mcclintock Bank Clock or parts, West­ Need not run. Call TOLL FREE l-800-23J-BUNN minster chimes. John Carpenter, 17436 State or 913-383-2880. Maundy International, P .0. Box Road 1, Spencerville, IN 46788; (219) 627-2501. 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas 66212. HAMILTON ELECTRIC REPAIRMAN SEEKS PARTS! Especially need Model 500 contact wires and Model 505 balance completes. We buy watchmakers tools, equipment, ma­ Clean out your parts drawer and help me terial, and related items as well as je'lfelers and WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ keep these w~tches alive. Also want advertising clockmakers tools and watch collections, etc. movements. I buy entire collections, estates, materials, watches, anything Hamilton Electric. Specialize in estate purchases. Call or write watchmakers' inventories. Over 25 years Rene Rondeau, 120 Harbor Drive, Corte Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence experience of honest and reliable confidential Madera, CA 94925; (415) 924-9132. Square Shopping Center, Virginia Beach, VA transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499,Beverly 23464; (804) 495-2471. Hills, CA 90210; (213) 826-7778.

ATTENTION WATCHMAKERS! Small ad, We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap Watches Wanted higher prices! We need your vintage watches (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, for our European customers. Top prices paid sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour for Patek, Vacheron, Rolex, Cartier, Movado, payment return mail! Ship insured/registered chronographs, and others. Buying all brands, mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, new old stock. Buying mint boxed comic 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. characters. Buying preowned modern Rolex Established 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. and Cartier. Buying ladies enamels. National Watch Exchange, 107 S. 8th St., Philadelphia, PA 19106. 1-800-43-ROLEX. 1-800-562-6788. SCRAP WANTED • Gold · up to 97% of market We desperately need for our retail • Watch Batteries - call for quote customers fine watches by: • Plated Watchbands - $12.00/lb. • Gold Filled Bands - $27.00/lb. Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, • Gold Filled Watch Cases, etc. - $5.50/oz. Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. Also: • Optical Frames • 10k, 14k, 18k Jewelry We are paying top prices for any high • Bench Sweeps quality, unusual or complicated • Filters, Buffing Waste Wrist or Pocket Watches • Bench Dust orci er"°!ch pric.es.. Top prices paid for Rolex. POSTAGE AND UPS REIMBURSED Patek, Vacheron, Cartier, Audemors, MO'

Your AWi membership card signifies that you are '(;fl~ ~:::~\ AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS ,~ , ~ i ;, INSTITUTE entitled to the many services offered by your as­ "' .·. -'JI sociation. However, we must have the correct in­ ~/' 1991 formation from your card to be able to serve you JOHN A. DOE 000 SMITH ST. most efficiently. NOWHERE, OH 12345

This illustration points out the important, coded information on the right side of your membership card. Always use your AWi membership number when corresponding or ordering from AWi. Membership Number Certification Type of Number Certification

January 1991 /Horological Times 55 Dates to Remember Ad Index

JANUARY 1991 17-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, American Perfit Crystal Corp ...... 4 11-13-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course instructor; Bay Area, CA.* (AWi ); John Kenyon, instructor; Hous­ ton, TX.* 22-24-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course Borel Co ...... 7 (AWi); John Kenyon, instructor; Phoe­ 12-13-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course nix, AZ.* (AWi); James Williams, instructor; San Cas·Ker Co: ...... inside back cover Diego, CA.* 23-24-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John A . Nagle, instructor; Charles Cleves ...... 19 12-13-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Los Angeles, CA.* Conover & Quayle . . .. 23 (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Tucson, AZ.* 23-24-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instruc­ Davis Supply ...... 8 13-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch tor; Houston, TX.* Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instructor; Los Angeles, CA.* Esslinger Co ...... inside front cover MARCH 1991 13-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, Gem City College. . . 11 instructor; Miami, FL.* 8-10-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John Kenyon, instructor; Alex­ Innovative Electronics . . 19-20-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench andria, VA.* . 27 Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Baton Rouge, LA.* 9: 10-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course J & S Jewelers Supply ...... 11 (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Cin­ 20-AWI Southeast Regional Seminar; Char cinnati, OH.* lotte, NC.* S. La Rose, Inc ...... 21 ,6-17-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Okla­ Livesay's, Inc ...... 17 homa City, OK.* FEBRUARY 1991 16-17-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Precision Crystal Cutting Co. .. 25 2-3-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench (AWi); John A . Nagle, instructor; Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instruc­ Mobile, AL.* Ray Gaber Co ...... tor; Daytona Beach, FL. •· .. 27 17-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch 9-10-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Song's Trading Co ...... 9 Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instruc­ Adams, instructor; Phoenix, AZ.* tor; Hollywood, FL. * 17--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Toledo Jewelers ...... 15 9-10-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Albu­ instructor; Nashville, TN.* Twin City Supply .. . 13 querque, NM.* 23-24-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench 13-14-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instruc­ Vibrograf USA Corp . . . 23 Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instruc­ tor; Albuquerque, NM.* tor; Phoeni x, AZ.* Witschi Electronics . . .. . 25 16-17-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course APRIL 1991 (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Aus­ Young-Neal Co ...... 9 tin, TX.* 6-7-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi) ; Robert Bishop, instruc­ 16-17-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench tor; San Diego, CA.* Zantech, Inc...... 3 Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; San Diego, CA.* 13-14-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instruc­ 16-17-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench tor; Fresno, CA.* Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instruc­ tor; Jackson, MS.* *For more information on AWi Bench Courses 17- Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch and Regional Seminars contact AWi Central, Repair Bench Course (AWi); James P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Adams, instructor; Pensacola, FL.* Cincinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838.

ANSWERS FROM PAGE 35 1 - 48 teeth; 2 - 12 leaves; 3 - 3.

56 Horological Times/January 1991 Figures don't lie.

We ship over 97 % of Seiko material parts from stock.

We ship over 95 % of Seiko crystals from stock.

We ship over 95 % of all orders the same day received, and 100% within 24 hours.

Above figures based on audit of Nov. 19,1990. Includes Seiko, Pulsar and Lorus. Bands and band parts not included.

For the best service on Seiko, Pulsar and Lorus watch material, call Cas-Ker. 1-800-487-0408. Cas·~&(](O. Quick and efficient service on all of your material needs.

2121 SPRING GROVE AVENUE P 0 BOX 14069 CINCINNATI OH 45250-0069 LOCAL PHONE (513) 241-7073 FAX (513) 241-5848 AND REGIONAL SEMINARS JANUARY 1991 To register for these courses, please send along w ith your request a registra­ tion fee of $25 per instruction day (for AWi members) to: AWi Central, P.O. 11-13-Advanced Clock Repair-Houston, TX Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. PLEASE NOTE: 12-13-Cuckoo Clock Repair-San Diego, CA 12-13-400-Day Clock Repair-Tucson, AZ Registrations are lim ited, and will be selected by the earliest postmarks. You 13-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair-Los Angeles, CA may register by Fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard 13-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair-Miami, FL number, card expiration date, and signature. Fax: (513) 661-3131; Info: (513) 19-20-Repair of the Atmos Clock-Baton Rouge, LA 661-3838. 20-AWI Southeast Regional Seminar-Charlotte, NC Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Instructor: Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS FEBRUARY 1991 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair 2-3-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair-Hollywood, FL Instructor: Robert Bishop, CEWS 9-10-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair-Daytona Beach, FL 9-10-Repair of the Atmos Clock-Albuquerque, NM Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair 13-14-Repair of the Atmos Clock-Phoenix, AZ Instructor: James Broughton, CEWS 16-17-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair-Jackson, MS 16-17-Cuckoo Clock Repair-A

PROJECT EXTEND

PROJECT EXTEND PROVIDES SELF-HELP EDUCATIONAL OP­ Ill-LATHES PORTUNITIES FOR: 1) The newly trained individual seeking to gain speed and profitability. 2) The marginal or self-trained individual seek­ Aug. 5-9 a) Lathe I-James Lubic ing to fill gaps in their training. 3) The experienced craftsman seeking Aug. 12·16 b) Lathe II-Archie Perkins to extend skills in certain specialties. In order to provide access to a maximum number of AWi IV-MECHANICAL WATCHES members, there will be no tuition for the programs offered at the AWi Extension Development Center. Attendees will be responsible for their April 8-12 al Watch Repair I-James Lubic (staffing, poising/truing, transportation and room and board. Motel rooms are available for ap­ timing escapements) proximately $50 per day; most courses last five days. A limited number April 15-19 b) Watch Repair II-Harold J. Herman (hairspring vibrat­ of grants will be available for those who need help with room and board. ing, finishing, and dynamic poise) June 10-14 c) Watch Repair Ill-James Lubic (complicated watches, PROJECT EXTEND'S TENTATIVE SCHEDULE i.e. automatics, calendars. stopwatches) The course schedule presented here is TENTATIVE. However, those in­ June 22-26 d) Watch Repair IV-Antoine Simonin (chronographs, terested in specific programs are encouraged to register now. Class sizes repeaters) [TENTATIVE] are limited and registrations will be accepted by earliest postmark or Sept. 9-13 e) Watch Repair V-Archie Perkins (restoration) fax date. Each class requires a registration fee of $50 which will be re­ May 6-10 f) Watch Repair VI-Harold J. Herman (modern methods funded when you attend the class. For specific course and registration and production repair) details, please contact: AWi CENTRAL, 3700 HARRISON AVE., July 8·12 gl Watch Repair VII-James Lubic (preparation and com­ CINCINNATI, OH 45211 ; (5131 661-3838; fax: (513) 661-3131. pletion of CMW exam I

V-CASES I-QUARTZ WATCHES Apr. 29-May 3 a) Watch Case Repair-Marshall Richmond May 13-17 a) Quartz I-Gerald Jaeger (beginners) Aug. 19·23 bl Clock Case Repair-James Williams May 20-24 b) Quartz II-Robert Bishop (advanced) June 3-7 cl Quartz Ill-Alice Carpenter (preparation and comple­ VI-ADJUNCT TRAINING tion of CEWS exam) July 29-Aug. 2 a) Support Services-Ewell Hartman (cases, crystals, II-CLOCKS bands. sales, and take-in) Sept. 16-20 b) Management for Watch· and Clockmakers-Fred S. Mar. 11-15 a) Clock Repair I-Roland Iverson (beginners) Burckhardt Mar. 18-22 b) Clock Repair II-John P. Kenyon (advanced) Sept. 23-27 c) Clock Repair Ill-William Moore (restoration) Aug. 26-30 d) Clock Repair IV-Marvin E. Whitney (practical repair techniques) July 15-19 e) Clock Repair V-John P. Kenyon (preparation and All classes will be held at the AWi Development Lab, Oak Crest Plaza, completion of CMC exam) 5981 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 45248.