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This Clock Is a Rather Curious the Movement Is That of a a Combination
MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS 36 pc. Assortment Clear Styrene Storage Box Contains 1 Each of Most Popular Sizes From 19.0 to 32.0 $45.00 72 pc. Assortment Clear Styrene Storage Box Contains 1 Each of Most Popular Refills Available Sizes From 14.0 to 35.0 On All Sizes $90.00 :. JJl(r1tvfolet Gfa:ss A~hesive Jn ., 'N-e~ilie . Pofot Tobe · Perfect for MinenifGlass Crystals - dire$ -iA. secondbn ~un or ultraviolet µgh{'DS~~~ cfa#ty as gl;lss. Stock Up At These Low Prices - Good Through November 10th FE 5120 Use For Ronda 3572 Y480 $6.50 V237 $6.50 Y481 $6.95 V238 $6.95 Y482 $6.95 V243 $6.95 51/2 x 63/4 $9.95 FREE - List of Quartz Movements With Interchangeability, Hand Sizes, Measurements, etc. CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-328-0205 IN MN 1-800-392-0334 24-HOUR FAX ORDERING 612-452-4298 FREE Information Available *Quartz Movements * Crystals & Fittings * * Resale Merchandise * Findings * Serving The Trade Since 1923 * Stones* Tools & Supplies* VOLUME13,NUMBER11 NOVEMBER 1989 "Ask Huck" HOROLOGICAL Series Begins 25 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute ROBERT F. BISHOP 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Railroad 6 Emile Perre t Movement JOE CROOKS BENCH TIPS 10 The Hamilton Electric Sangamo Clock Grade MARVIN E. WHITNEY MILITARY TIME 12 Deck Watch, Waltham Model 1622-S-12 Timepieces WES DOOR SHOP TALK 14 Making Watch Crystals JOHN R. PLEWES 18 REPAIRING CLOCK HANDS 42 CHARLES CLEVES OLD WATCHES 20 Reality Sets In ROBERT D. PORTER WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 24 A Snap, Crackle, & Pop Solution J.M. -
The Case of Switzerland and the World Watch Industry *
469 Technological discontinuities and flexible production networks: The case of Switzerland and the world watch industry * Amy Glasmeier tain and augment their competitiveness in a global Unrr~rs~t~of Texas at Austin, Texas, USA economy. On the eve of the electronics revolution, the Swiss watch production system, centered in the mountainous Jura region, was flexible, cost The twentieth-century history of the Swiss watch industry effective, and extremely profitable. Both horizon- illustrates how cultures and industrial production systems ex- tally and vertically disintegrated, the Swiss system perience great difficulty adapting to external change at differ- offered enormous variety while maintaining qual- ent points in time. The current emphasis on production net- ity and timeliness of delivery. “The multiplicity of works - unique reservoirs of potential technological innovation realized through cooperation rather than competition among enterprises, and the competition and emulation firms - lacks a detailed appreciation of historic networks, and that characterized the industry, yielded a product in particular their fragile character in times of economic of superior quality known the world over for high turmoil. While networks can and do promote innovation within fashion, design, and precision” [21, p. 481. an existing technological framework, historical experience sug- Beginning in the 1970s when foreign competi- gests their fragmented, atomistic structure is subject to dis- organization and disintegration during periods of technological tion hurdled technological frontiers in watch change. An exclusive focus on “production” ignores other movements, advancing from mechanical to elec- constraints that are powerful forces governing the reaction tric, electronic, digital and finally quartz technol- abilities of regions. Previous research has largely relied on a ogy, the Jura’s undisputed dominance ended. -
Revolution on Your Wrist
Revolution on Your Wrist by Carlene Stephens, Amanda Dillon, and Margaret Dennis Less than thirty years ago, while Sly and the Family Stone were topping the pop music charts and President Richard Nixon was covertly scheming to win reelection, the wristwatch was being transformed - from a mechanism of moving parts powered by an unwinding spring, into a battery-driven electronic computer. A Timex magazine ad sports faddish new electronic athletic watches clearly aimed at the male market. There is evidence that, in the Challenging centuries of analog 1880s, women in England and timekeeping, battery-driven quartz Europe wore small watches set in wristwatches hit the American marketplace in the early 1970s, though it seemed leather bands around their wrists, unlikely the expensive, new-fangled especially for outdoor activities timekeepers would sell. Marketed as the such as hunting, horseback "Next Big Thing" in cutting-edge riding and, later, bicycling. technology, electronic watches, which were capable of far more precise timekeeping that mechanical ones, sold surprisingly well. They soon won over the buying public. Today, with electronic watches capable of determining a runners' heart rate and body temperature, or the time and place of your next business meeting, the mechanical watch is nearly extinct. The wristwatch is a relative newcomer among timekeepers. The mechanical clock was invented around A.D. 1300, somewhere in Western Europe, though no one knows precisely where or by whom. Portable cousin to the clock, the spring- driven watch made its debut in the first half of the 15th century with equally obscured origins. But not until a little more than 100 years ago did the wristwatch come into fashion. -
Wristwatches Were Invented for Women
Wristwatches Were Invented For Women On June 19th, National Watch Day recognizes an industry which has been around for more than 500 years and is steadily evolving. Choosing a watch is very personal as the choices are vast and numerous. Even with the advent of smartphones and smartwatches, the classic wrist watch is a sign of individual taste, culture, and a rich history that cannot be disputed. There wouldn’t be any Rolex watches if Peter Heinlein had not invented the “mainspring” all the way back in 1511. A German clock maker, Heinlein decided to start experimenting with spring powered clocks in the early 16th century, and after reducing the size of these springs dramatically he was able to create the very first modern watch. A Swiss watchmaker named Eterna was the first company to produce a wristwatch that included an alarm function in 1908, but it wasn’t until 1914 that they started full-scale production with this amazing little invention. The first pocket watches had one single hand showing the hours. Minute hands started being used only in 17th century. Though specific watch styles come into and go out of fashion just like everything else, wearing a watch – or keeping a pocket watch in your waistcoat – has always been a big part of men’s fashion since the early 1600s. King Charles II popularized of the wearing of pocket watches, and that trend has trickled down throughout history. Pocket watch was incredibly popular throughout nearly 1800s all the way up until the 1930s, and was really only killed off during World War II where military men were forbade to use anything but a wristwatch – all in an effort to keep them safe, keep them focused, and keep both hands on their weapon. -
Watches: Part II TECHNICALLY WATCHES MUSEUM DONORS! ARCHIE B
VOLUME 4, NUMBER 4 APRIL, 1980 ® ROLOGICAL Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Clockmakers. • • LESLIE L. SMITH 4 A Change of Scene to have AWINEWS MILTON C. STEVENS 6 New Bench Courses in Clock Restoration BENCH COURSE SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING JOSEPH RUGOLE 14 Keeping Up with the Times MARVIN E. WHITNEY 18 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER Don't Forget. • • Some Innovative Ideas and Design Changes in the Hamilton Chronometer To VOTE! HENRY B. FRIED 24 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Croton R23 Chronograph GLOSSARY OF SOLID STATE TERMS LOUIS A. ZANONI 26 A Glossary of Electronic Terms Used in We Salute ... Quartz Watches: Part II TECHNICALLY WATCHES MUSEUM DONORS! ARCHIE B. PERKINS 28 Watch Bands and Case Gaskets FRED S. BURCKHARDT 34 THE ROCK QUARRY A Key Ingredient: Enthusiasm! ROBERT F. BISHOP 38 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN Profile: The Horological Society of New York BASEL FAIR ... CLOCK CHATTER OTTO BENESH 42 Two Silent Verges and a Marriage it must be APRIL! Not Made in Heaven CHIME AND STRIKE STEVEN G. CONOVER 44 The Seth Thomas Sonora Chime IN THE SPOTLIGHT ORVILLE R. HAGANS 50 Lust's Astronomical Clock PICKLE BARREL MARSHALL F · RICHMOND 54 Changing Heads, Tops, Bezels, and Replacing Sides and Shanks DEPARTMENTS Our Readers Write/ 16 JOSEPH RUGOLE 60 WATCH ADJUSTMENTS New Members/ 48 Hairspring Vibrating A WI Bench Courses / 49 Bench Tips / 58 Book Review / 59 Horological Times ISSN0145-9546 is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watch makers Institute, Harold J. Herman, Editor, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Reprint New Products / 62 ing and reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. -
American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
™ TIMEST IMES AMERICANAMERICAN WATCHMAKERS-CLOCKMAKERSWATCHMAKERS-CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTEINSTITUTE L L SEPTEMBERSEPTEMBER 20102010 A A C C I I G G O O O L L O O R R O O H H ting! Collec USA-made ARBE Variable Speed Polishing Dust e in 0RWRUVIRUKLJKHQGZDWFKÀQLVKLQJ at 6HDOHGVXSHUÀRZKRRGV²RIDLULVFROOHFWHG im òKSYDULDEOHVSHHGSROLVKLQJPRWRUVVSLQGOHVLQFOXGHG lt 6WDQGDUGWKUHDGHGVSLQGOHV EROWRQVSLQGOHVò´ZKHHOKROH U )LOWHUVWRPLFURQSDUWLFOHVL]H e h t DC-CFSD920V Double Spindle Dust Collector $2995 ´:[´'[´+ZLWK´KLJKZRUNWDEOH KSVXFWLRQPRWRU FIPFXELFIHHWSHUPLQXWHRIDLUÀRZ &DUWULGJH¿OWHUVHULHVIRUWKHEHVW¿OWUDWLRQ +(3$H[LWDLU¿OWHUHOLPLQDWHVDOOHUJHQVGXVWDQGSROOHQLQVKRS DC-MMD948.005V Double Spindle Dust Collector $1995 ´:[´'[´+ZLWK´KLJKZRUNWDEOH ½KSVXFWLRQPRWRU FIPFXELFIHHWSHUPLQXWHRIDLUÀRZ &XVWRPDWWDFKPHQWWRYHQWDLURXWVLGHEXLOGLQJ DC-MMD948.005V Single Spindle Dust Collector $1795 ´:[´'[´+ZLWK´KLJKZRUNWDEOH ½KSVXFWLRQPRWRU FIPFXELFIHHWSHUPLQXWHRIDLUÀRZ &XVWRPDWWDFKPHQWWRYHQWDLURXWVLGHEXLOGLQJ Jules Borel & Co. 1110 Grand Boulevard Kansas City, Missouri 64106 Phone 800-776-6858 Fax 800-776-6862 julesborel.com in this issue VOLUME 34, NUMBER 9, SEPTEMBER 2010 features depart- educa- Quartz Watches Official Publication of the American What does the future hold? Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute tion ments AWCI Academy of President’s EDITORIAL & Watchmaking Class Message EXECUTIVE OFFICES Schedule American Watchmakers- Mark Butterworth pg. 2 pg. 34 Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) Executive Director’s 701 Enterprise Drive AWCI 21st Century Message Harrison, OH 45030 Certification Exam 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) James E. Lubic pg. 3 Schedule or 513-367-9800 Christian Piguet pg. 6 Questions & Answers Fax 513-367-1414 pg. 34 Making a Watch, Part 2 [email protected] AWCI 21st Century www.awci.com Paul Loatman pg. 12 Certified Watchmakers 2010 Recipients Donna K. Baas & Clockmakers Managing Editor & Advertising Manager of the Harold and Marie pg. 35 Borneman Greenwood Katherine J. Ortt Memorial Fund pg. -
CONTENTS Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute FEATURES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES 35 Mm Precision Work Spindles, by J
™ HOROLOGICAL HOROLOGICAL TIMES JANUARY 2010 TIMES VOLUME 34, NUMBER 1, JANUARY 2010 CONTENTS Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute FEATURES EDITORIAL & EXECUTIVE OFFICES 35 mm Precision Work Spindles, By J. Malcolm Wild 6 American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) Breitling Chronograph Push Button Repair Technique 10 701 Enterprise Drive By Dale LaDue Harrison, OH 45030 Toll Free 1-866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) Commercially Available Hole Gages, By Bill Nelson 16 or (513) 367-9800 Fax: (513) 367-1414 Certification Relevance, By Wesley Grau 22 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.awci.com Office Hours: COLUMNS Monday-Friday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM (EST) Education Notes, By Jerry Faier 20 Closed National Holidays Making the Hole Sizing Instrument, Part 4, By Laurie Penman 24 Managing Editor & Advertising Manager Donna K. Baas DEPARTMENTS Associate Editor & Design Associate President’s Message, By Mark Butterworth 2 Katherine J. Ortt Executive Director’s Message, By James E. Lubic 3 Executive Director/Education & Technical Director Questions & Answers, By David A. Christianson 4 James E. Lubic, CMW21 New Members 19 Operations Director Thomas J. Pack, CPA From the Workshop, By Jack Kurdzionak 28 Watchmaking Instructor/Certification Coordinator Affiliate Chapter Report, By Gene Bertram 30 Thomas D. Schomaker, CMW21 Bulletin Board 31 Membership Coordinator Sharon McManus Industry News 35 Education Coordinator Classified Advertising 36 Daniela Ott Advertisers’ Index 40 Receptionist/Technical Support Sally Landis AWCI Staff Directory 40 IT Director Jim Meyer EDUCATION AWCI Academy of Watchmaking Classes 32 HOROLOGICAL TIMES ADVISORY COMMITTEE AWCI 21st Century Certification Exam Schedule 32 Ron Iverson, CMC: Chairman Karel Ebenstreit, CMW AWCI and ClockClass.com Partner for Training Program 34 David Fahrenholz Jordan Ficklin, CW21 Chip Lim, CMW, CMC, CMEW SPECIAL INTEREST Robert D. -
Key Test for Quartz Watches
SHARP@ KEYSTONE PRICING* MAKES EXTRA PROFITS! SHARP is everything a popular price top watch brand should be, delivering FAR BETTER BOTTOM LINE PROFIT. SHARP watch sales through over 20,000 prominent stores accounts for an important share of the total market for popular priced name brand watches. Count on SHARP watches for increased real profits. SHARP will deliver dramatically improved margins and substantial sales volume increases. SHARP® RELIABILITY SHARP® QUALITY • Dependable product performance • Japanese movements • In stock, in depth availability and continuity • Superior quality control in all components of styles • Exacting qual~y controls at factory and • Drop ship efficiency year round distribution centers • Quality is implemented in every detail SHARP® MARKETING • Higher profit SHARP® POWERFUL • Programs designed for increased turns • 5 Year Limited Warranty for every style • Reorder programs that work • New watch store warranty policy • Excellent communication and factory cooperation SHARP® PRODUCT • From $14.95 to $69.95 SHARP® ADVERTISING • Analog Quartz - over 200 models • Local market support • High Tech - over 30 top sellers • Network and local t.v. • Many basic fast turn economy models for • Print campaigns in Time/People and other promotion top magazines • New exquisite selected distribution models *KEYSTONE PRICING! 10-Piece minimum - (less than 10 pieces billed at less 40 and 10) DISPLAYS AVAILABLE Light and motion displays for 50 and 90-piece units. Cost of display is offset with free goods - Call or write for details TERMS AVAILABLE Call Toll-Free to order 1-800-328-0205 In Minnesota 1-800-392-0334 NEW RICH GRAY Serving the trade since 1923 DISPLAY FD-9002 - 90 piece Floor Display Light and Motion, 9 rows of 1O marked spaces for easy tracking and reordering. -
Pocket Watches & Watch Parts Auction 11/19/2014 4:00 PM
Auction - Pocket Watches & Watch Parts Auction 11/19/2014 4:00 PM CST Lot Title/Description Lot Title/Description 1 Auction Information 19 Pocket Watch POCKET WATCHES AND WATCH PARTSONLINE BIDDING Stetson & Crouse, sterling case, case CWC Co, case # 8695, movement ONLYBID NOW THRU TUESDAY, DECEMBER 16 AT 8 Stetson & Crouse, Syracuse NY, Movement # 164315, white face, black PMwww.HORTONAUCTION.comWe at Horton Auction & Real Estate numerals, gold hands, case inscribed HJG have done our best to describe these items accurately. We make no 20 Pocket Watch representation as to the functionally of these time pieces. Hamilton, 14k white gold filled case, Case Wadsworth quality, inner case 2 Special Days inscribed Hamilton Watch Company, Lancaster PA Movement Hamilton Preview Day: Thursday, December 11 from 11 AM - 2 PMPick up Days: Watch Co, 17 jewels, movement # 3408446, gold face, gold numbers, Wed., Dec. 17 from 11 AM - 3 PM & Thurs., Dec. 18 from 10 AM - 3 blue hands PMPreview Day & Pick up will be at Horton Auction & Real Estate3201 21 Pocket Watch Governors Drive, Huntsville, AL(256)536-7497 Illinois 18k gold filled case, case SWC Co, case # 5206259 movement 3 Pocket Watch illinois watch co, 19 jewels, aristocrat, movement # 4426274, gold face, Mermod-Jaccard & King. Nickel silver case. Case # 162894. Elgin black numerals, blue hands National Watch Co Movement, # 23828644, White Face, Black hands, 22 Pocket Watch Black hour numerals, Red second numerals American Watch Co, Clear back case, case #48044, movement 4 Pocket Watch American Watch -
The Watch a Twentieth Century Style History the Watch a Twentieth Century Style History
THE WATCH A TWENTIETH CENTURY STYLE HISTORY THE WATCH A TWENTIETH CENTURY STYLE HISTORY ALEXANDER BARTER PRESTEL MUNICH • LONDON • NEW YORK CONTENTS ABOVE Detail of movement backplate of an Audemars Piguet, made in 1912. A platinum open-faced keyless lever watch with minute repetition (cal. 9½ SMV #61) Diameter 25 mm FOREWORD The journey of the twentieth-century watch is one that says as Indeed, many Swiss watch companies and thousands of jobs much about the collective need to know time as it does about one’s disappeared entirely in the fallout of what became known as the personality or social position. From the very beginnings of the ‘quartz crisis’. Yet all was not lost, and thanks to the determination watch more than five hundred years ago, its aesthetic style and of certain key players, other watch houses would be born, reborn or form has been almost as important as the mechanics within. Time successfully amalgamated and reorganised to ensure their futures. and our ever growing need to know it, to possess it, to capture and, A few of the most famous and historic watch houses would emerge yes, even if possible to stop it, never grows old. from the crisis bruised but ultimately more resilient – following a Two hundred years ago the ownership of a watch was largely period of reflection and recalibration, it became clear that demand restricted to the wealthy. However, new mass-production techniques for and marketing of the fine watch depended on the continued use developed during the second half of the nineteenth century brought of mechanical rather than quartz movements. -
The New Collector's Guide to Pocket Watches
$12.95 in U.S.A. The New Collector’s Guide to Pocket Watches By Barry S. Goldberg Third Edition Revised February 18, 2007 © 2000-2007 BARRY S. GOLDBERG. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of the whole or any part of the contents of this without written permission is strictly prohibited. Printed in the USA. To order additional copies, please visit my online store at http://www.cafepress.com/barrysworld. Preface As with any specialized field, pocket watch collecting has its own terminology, and it is not always easy for the novice collector to understand what the “experts” are talking about. What does it mean to say that a watch has “jewels” or that it is “adjusted”? What is a “hunter case” watch? What’s the difference between a railroad “grade” watch and a railroad “approved” watch? What is a “lever set” watch? Isn’t “rolled gold” a brand of pretzel? Etc., etc., etc. Many people are fascinated by pocket watches, but are a bit intimidated by the thought of actually owning a miniaturized piece of complicated machinery made a hundred years ago [or more]. Collecting old pocket watches can be an extremely fun and rewarding hobby, but it can also be a bit frustrating at first if you don’t understand what it is that you’ve actually got. When I first started collecting pocket watches years ago, I knew absolutely nothing about them except that they looked nice and I wanted one. In fact, I couldn't even figure out how to set the time on my first watch [I thought it must be broken, and almost did break it trying to set it the wrong way!] The books I looked at were certainly useful and full of great information, but they all seemed to be written with the assumption that I already knew what they were talking about. -
Clock Restoration Consumables
CLOCK & BAROMETER BOOKS BOOKS & CATALOGUES A Guide to Dating English Antique The book is richly illustrated, and will appeal not only Clocks By Eric Bruton to clockmakers and horologists, but to bell enthusiasts, CLOCK & BAROM- and those with an interest in our rich Victorian heritage. Readership: Historical horologists, practical horologists, ETER BOOKS bell historians, bell ringers, tourists, the technically- minded public, historians of Victoriana. • Comprehensive detailed history • Extensively illustrated Clock & Barometer Books • New previously unpublished material • Appeals to the specialist and the general reader • Full technical descriptions of the clock and bells Barographs By Philip R Collins • 296 pages Code Description UOM Price B32293 Big Ben By Chris Mckay EACH £39.95 British Longcase Clocks By Eric Bruton A Guide to Dating English Antique Clocks provides a unique pictiorial record as well as collated information to help dealers and collectors to date English clocks by their case styles. 8VLQJH[DPSOHVIURPWKHIDPRXV:HWKHUÀHOGFROOHFWLRQ perhaps the greatest collection of entirely English domestic clocks ever made by a private collector. There are 220 separate photos showing a whole range of deisgns. The longcase series is very representative and WRÀOOJDSVLQWKHKLVWRULFDOUHFRUGRIEUDFNHW WDEOH By Philip R Collins clocks a series style drawings is provided. Tracing the development of the Barograph from its It also dates the clock by movement, dial and case and early history to the variety of devices we recognise provides guidance on improvements and marriages today. when a case and a movement do not belong to each • Thorough research and a wealth of illustrations RWKHU)HDWXULQJ:HWKHUÀHOG&ORFNV7HFKQLFDO)HDWXUHV feature The Plates, Lantern and Hanging Clocks, Bracket • Plus tips on maintenance Clocks, Longcase Clocks, Notes concerning makers of • 146 pages the clocks illustrated, Marquetry and Veneering, Cross Code Description UOM Price Reference Guide, Bibliography.