Urban Flowers An Urban Flower — 2 Mavi S/S 2017 collection — 4 Cuba’s Urban Flowers — 11 Mavi loves music — 15 A new book by Mavi — 21 I love Mavi — 28 Who is Who, in Mavi’s US Blogger Network? — 30 20 Years of Maviology — 34 The Industrial Heritage of Syros — 38 Ai Weiwei on Aegean tragedy — 41 A Man and a Plant — 46 SPRING–SUMMER 2017

www.mavi.com Photographer: Saner Gülsöken Associate publisher Alissa Friedman February 2017 Printed inIstanbul Cover Photo Contributors Görkem Çoşar Sultan SelimMah. Zeynep Bölükbaşı Selin Ekincioğlu Saner Gülsöken www.mavi.com İzzeddin Çalışlar Phone: +902122941000 Kağıthane, Istanbul,Turkey Hamidiye Mah.,SoğuksuCad., 3, Printed by Phone: +902123712000 Kağıthane 34418İstanbul Eski Büyükdere Cad. No:53 Published by Fonts usedinthisissue Design Editor Mavi GiyimSan.&Tic. A.Ş. Publisher onbehalfof Maviology Mas Matbaacılık San.ve Tic. A.Ş. [email protected] Mavi GiyimSanayi TicaretA.Ş. F Grotesk by Fairplex Narrow Emre Doğru Manolya Fikri Esen Karol Pınar Gözeri Elif Akarlılar by [email protected] ZuzanaLicko, Emigre Radim Pesko 5

An UrbanUrban Flower 2008

2003–2007 S/S 2017 MAVIOLOGY

2012–2013 WENTY YEARS AGO, I was 32 T and a writer working on the first issue of Maviology. I was in one of Istanbul’s central neighborhoods and it was a time when urban culture was beginning to take off. This magazine 1998–2002 2014–2017 was going to stand out immediately because it would catch the wave of the impending new millennium and very soon around the world nothing would ever be the same again. I became a regular writer and, after a few years, editor. In a country where non-mainstream periodicals were not very periodic, Maviology changed its designer and editor only three times. However, it changed its form and editorial features multiple times and it has published without interruption. It remains a functional means of communication for Mavi.

London, Long Island, Los Angeles, Luang Prabang, Lusaka, Lyon, Machu Picchu, Madrid, Marrakesh, Maryland, Mauritius, Melbourne, Memphis, Merzifon, Milano, Minneapolis, Minorca, Montreal, Mountainville, Moscow, Mumbai, Munster, Mykonos, Nazca, Negril, Over the past ten years, Maviology New Delhi, New York, Nimes, has crisscrossed the globe Noale, Opiki, Osaka, Paris, Petra, Maviology has continually sought countless times and brought the Philadelphia, Pirgi, Pompeii, out cities. What can you find in this world’s most interesting places Port Moresby, Prague, Pretoria, or that place? Who does what? What and people to its readers. Pyongyang, Reno, Reunion, Rio will inspire our readers? For twenty de Janeiro, Rodrigues, Roses, years, Maviology has lived by asking Abuquiu, Abu Simbel, Addis Salvador de Bahia, Salzburg, Saint these questions. It has been a flower Ababa, Agra, Aichi, Alacahöyük, Petersburg, Sanaa, San Diego, San that blooms everywhere and, in pursuit

Alaçatı, Alexandria, Almaty, Amasya, 2009 Dubrovnik, Essaouira, Fethiye, Isidro, Santa Fe, Santiago de Cuba, of the new, the beautiful, and the Amsterdam, Angkor, Antalya, Antigua, Florence, Frankfurt, Geneva, Ghilane, Santo Domingo, Sao Paolo, Sarajevo, rare, it blossoms anew each season. Antwerp, Aphrodisias, Aswan, , 2010–2011 Goa, Goroka, Gothenburg, Gozo, Savannah, Semipalatinsk, Seville, Austin, Bago, Baku, Bali, Bangkok, Granada, Greenwich, Hannover, Sicily, Sidney, Sigiriya, Singapore, İzzeddin Çalışlar 1997 Barcelona, Belek, Belgrade, Beirut, Harajuku, Harran, Al Hauraia, Split, Syros, Taghit, Tangier, Taos, , Bilbao, Bodrum, Bratislava, Havana, Hong Kong, Hyères, Ibiza, Tehran, Tijuana, Tikal, Thimphu, , Cairns, Cairo, Canberra, Istanbul, Jaipur, Jerusalem, Jodhpur, Treviso, , Toledo, Troy, Toliara, Cannes, Cappadocia, Cayo Levisa, Juist, Kandy, Katmandu, Khövsgöl, Tunis, Udaipur, Ulaanbaatar, Valletta, Cefalù, Charleston, Chiang Mai, Chom Kırklareli, Kiev, Ko Samui, Konya, Vancouver, Varanasi, Venice, Verona, Thong, Český Krumlov, Colombo, Kraków, Kuala Lumpur, Kyoto, Lamu, Vienna, Wadi Halfa, Warsaw, Copenhagen, Córdoba, Dakar, Dubai, Las Vegas, Lesbos, Lhasa, Lisbon, Wolfsburg, Yangon, Zaragoza. intheMexicanbaybasket IknowaheavenlyfruittheCubanisle, NAZIM HIKMET/HAVANAINTERVIEW

collection Mavi S/S2017 > > > > La casaHabana contrast layering red andpink, tropical utility, Botanical inspirations, vintage denimshorts lace details, Bombers, croppedjeans, off-shoulder blouses vintage graphics, flirty tops,tropicalshirts, hot colors, Exotic pieces, 50’s Cubanlifestyle

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 7 > > > Denim Studio Dark denim,smartlook Slim jeansandcasualshirts Wardrobe must-haves stoppingtokiss. longingforcalm Embracinginadoorway wantingtohug. writingacard, Travelingisfeelinglikeapoet, GABRIEL GARCIAMARQUEZ /TRAVELINGIS... > > > > High-rise istheBest neck andhemdetails Jersey withsophisticated High-rise skinny layered withcrafts Soft touch,body-hugging jeans Luxury, premiumdenim

> > > > Girly Blossom mixed withmodernpieces Naturally worn looks Artistic hemdetails Green-cast contrast washes layering pieces Crochet andhand-made harnessingthedawn. inaninfiniteinsomnia Lucid,shadowedreminiscentgarden Havana, JORGE ENRIQUEGONZALEZ-PACHECO/HAVANA > > > > > Romantic > > > > Tropical Boyfriends Indigo stripes Cotton poplin, natural colors Romantic frilltops,ruffles,ginghams Ripped andrepaired Stone washes andsuperlight denim Relaxed andcool and natural brushing Hand-made whiskers Rigid denimlookinheritage washes Key fits:KissandLeone

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 9 > > > > > > New-age Rebel MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 10 Black isamust Zip details Bombers andbikers Bodycon jerseys andurbantops Classic whitesincomfortdenim Confident withherdenim once,invisiblerose. You,ashisfingers theshadesenclose Gold,ivory,orblood, JORGE LUISBORGES/AROSEANDMILTON > > > > > Denim Muse Easy andstylish 90’s indigo colors Hem details onvintage denim Crop topswithnatural yarn mixes Folk embroideryonmarble denim

> > > > Denim-Makers Urban moodmixed with vintage Overall printed, washed jerseys New key item:denimjacket Ripped andrepairedtrue-bluedenim Becausetheyrepresentyourheartandmine Givethemallofyourattention ‘Iloveyou,Iadoremylove’ WiththemImeantosay Twogardeniasforyou ISOLINA CARRILO/TWOGARDENIAS

> > > > > White on > > > Sunshine White Holiday mood Aqua bluedenim Layers of whitewithjeanjackets Jersey andwoven mixes Different shades of white Chic andeffortless holiday mood Simple layering pieces Skinny fitsinsuper-soft whitejeans

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 11 isabouttoarrive. it’sbecausesomeoneelse Whensomeoneleaves, Victor Norlander Francisco Lachowski Carla Ciffoni Marique Schimmel Talents: Make up:HakanKültür Hair: İbrahimZengin Stylist: CarloAlberto Pregnolato Photographer: EmreDoğru Mavi S/S2017Collection PAULO COELHO/THEZAHIR

Urban Flowers Cuba’s that itwelcomes you longbefore of thisfrailwhiteflower issostrong of nearlyonemeter. Thefragrance jasmine, the flower reaches aheight and isvery common.Resembling Cuba’s fertilesoilandtropicalclimate an invasive species,ithasthrived in and asymbolof thecountry. Though flower) becameCuba’s national flower In 1936,themariposa(butterfly before itstransitioniscomplete. history andsociety, mustseeCuba not onlywithgeography, butalso tracts. Therefore, thoseinterested Castro withaccompanying socialist portraits of CheGuevara andFidel from thepastthirtyyears apartfrom Cuba today seethat littleremains the expansion of tourism.Visitorsto have beguntodissipate slowly with keenly intheoutskirts of Havana, The poverty andrepression,feltmore entertainment initsown right. plastic oranges,each asourceof Chevy oroneof thetaxisthat resemble on abicycle withabasket, into a‘56 island’s uniquefloralfauna istohop way tobecomefamiliarwiththe squares of the two cities.Another garden linethestreets andareinthe same tropicalplants adorning the for non-residents, isitsgarden.The of thereasons foritscharisma,even 1950s’ grandeuranddolcevita.One been theplace tostay. Itsymbolizes beginning, theHotel Nacionale has service cityvisitorsreceive. From the meticulous, almostpampering change inthepost-Fidelerais personalities. Themostvisible to unveil theircolorfulcolonial shedding theirdilapidated cloaks district by district foryears, are T Santiago, underrestoration HE CITIESOFHavana and

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 13 Ceiba tree

Uva caleta tree

Royal poinciana tree MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 15 plants arealsoworthy of mention. In addition tomojitos andcigars, visual impact forminimumeffort. streets. Havana returns maximum eyes andinhalewhileyou strollthe no exertion at all.Justopenyour in theurbanfabric. Thisrequires is tosimplyadmire theirposition Havana’s relationship withplants Havana. Thesecondway tosee next toLeninParkinthesouthof Jardin Botanico Nacional deCuba, Cuba’s florathisway, gotothe tree) andsugarcane. To discover royal poincianatree(akaflame such astheseagrape (uva caleta), here too, thereareendemicplants in allregionstouchwithnature, ways. Oneistoplay botanist. As and plants canbeseenintwo The relationship between Havana heights twicethat of palmtrees. Latin Americanplant, cangrow to Havana. Theceibatree, another they areparticularly at homein Caribbean andSouthAmerica, to seepalmtreesthroughoutthe of 30meters. Whileitispossible and palmtreescanreach heights are practically symbolsof Havana, Architectural bananaandpalmtrees UNESCO BiosphereReserve list. National Park,whichisonthe del RioandtheGuanahacabiles Havana fortheprovince of Pinar hundred speciesof orchids,leave you draw close. To seeover three MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 16 Text &photographs: SanerGülsöken Santiago, Cuba Photographer: UğurBektaş Morrissey at theMavi Musicconcert. Cemil Topuzlu Open-airTheater. 2012. Istanbul. loves music Mavi to hear greatmusic. for 30,000music aficionados and artists,making itpossible for 66concerts by35groups In thistime,ithassetthe stage to Istanbulfor‘MaviMusic Nights’. names fromthemusicworld instrumental inbringing major Since 1999,Mavihasbeen

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 17 Photographer: UğurBektaş Red Hot ChiliPeppers concert. Mavi youth at the 2012. Istanbul.santralistanbul. MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 18 Photographer: UğurBektaş Marianne Faithfull Mavi Musicconcert 3–5 March2018istanbul Photographer: UğurBektaş Peter Bjorn&John Mavi Musicconcert 2 February 2010 young peoplecometogether. Festival andRock’nCoke, where the International Istanbul Jazz such asBabylon Soundgarden, name toencompassmusicfestivals beyond activities underitsbrand Mavi’s relationship with musicgoes foot inthedoorcommercially. talents anopportunitytoget their concerts todate have given new sponsorship, thesixSOFAR appeared onstage underMavi established artiststhat have Hot ChiliPeppers, amongother Nouvelle Vague, Morrissey, Red Explosion, ChicksonSpeed, The TigerLillies,Stereolab, Blues In addition toMarianneFaithfull, Photographer: UğurBektaş Mavi Musicconcert 20–21 April2007 Oi Va Voi Photographer: UğurBektaş Babylon Soundgardenevents. at Rock’nCoke and From Mavi’s activity tents for Istanbulfromselected years. unforgettable nights’ collection special snapshots fromthis in itsarchive. Herearesome Mavi’s love formusichasgrown collection stemmingfrom Over theyears, amemorabilia reflecting thefestival themes. Mavi storeshave display windows festival t-shirtsonsaleandsome Mavi putsthespeciallydesigned inspiration forMavi’s collections. festivals. Festivalgoers arealso an bustling, animated center at these coloring make theMavi tents a dying, jewelry makinganddenim workshops and activities like tie unique toMavi. Thet-shirtdesign creative, dynamicatmosphere tents at thefestivals spawn a What’s more, Mavi’s activity

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 21 Photographer: UğurBektaş 4. DenizTekin, Sofar İstanbul,June 2015 1. Biz&Nilİpek;3.MissCrowley 2014, ZuhalMüzik-UNIQ 1, 2,3:Sofar New Year’s Eve Party, MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 22 4 3 1 2 A newbookbyMavi

1971. Dennis Stock 1969. Elliott Landy USA. Colorado. USA. Bethel, NY. Members of a bikers gang, Sons of silence. Beside the stage at the Woodstock Festival. MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 23 Daytona Beach. USA. Florida. 1987. ConstantineManos Adam andEve pubinHackney. GB. England.. 1976. ChrisSteele-Perkins Group of teenagers. Italy. Ravenna. 1990. Ferdinando Scianna Italy. Assise. 1982. HarryGruyaert D and ethos, parallels Magnum’s. In many ways, Mavi, itshistory are culturalheroes. eyes. Magnum photographers underlying realityandopen Their responsibilityistoexpose the moment andwhat ensues. Instantly andastutely, they assess technique doesnot satisfy them. Mere flawless photographic passion andingrainedcuriosity. by theirinexhaustible, professional Magnum photographers aredefined and reveal understanding. cannot. They influenceperception things others do, yet seewhat others photographers lookat thesame inaccessible politicians.Magnum set, andthey priedopendoorsto everyman andtheglamorousjet Hollywood stars, thedailylifeof the while documenting war zonesand evolved fromreporterstoartists, 1980s, Magnum photographers Golden Agefromthe1950sto Luminaries fromphotojournalism’s of time, conditionsorlimits. photographers work withnosense among thelasttoleave. Magnum first onthescene, they are history asthey live it.Habitually mundane andordinary, they record extraordinary moments, orthe storytellers. Whether capturing Magnum photographers are photographers arereporters. Magnum photographers. Magnum Simply put,because they are by Mavi, because... ENIM BYMAGNUM

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 25 recognizes needsandperceptions, A truedenimenthusiast, Mavi passion andingrainedcuriosity. Mavi aninexhaustible, professional apparel. Denimhasnurturedin present empirebuiltonuniversal fabrics andemerginginto its into premiumdesign,high-tech graced by topmodels,stretching garnering space onrunways uniform of generations of youth, workers, tobecomingthechosen beginnings clothing railroad denim —fromthefabrics’humble intimately intertwined withthat of charisma, Mavi’s historyis limits. Infatuated withdenim’s by time, circumstanceand Magnum, Mavi isunconstrained Turkey’s firstdenimbrand.Like ‘blue’). Mavi blazedatrailas bathed inblue(‘mavi’ means into thisdeepdenimculture, a brandin1991.Mavi was born three decades before becoming as aconcept, gestated forover workshop inthe 1950s,Mavi, Established inasmallIstanbul denim-focused fashionbrand. and they areallleaders inMavi’s Mavi isdesignersandcreators, MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 26 After apopconcert. Serbia. Belgrade. 2004. ChrisSteele-Perkins Turkey. Central Anatolia region. 2003. Nikos Economopoulos Students playing guitars. Mexico. Mexico City. Coyoacan. 1996. Stuart Franklin Apple employees greet theirvisitors. 30 ft.highglasscube withApplelogo. USA. NYC. Openingof Apple Store on 5thAvenue. 2006. ThomasHoepker Mavi Jeanscampaign. Spain. Seville. 2004. Ferdinando Scianna ‘First Kiss’. USA. LosAngeles,CA. 2012. JimGoldberg Brazil. RiodeJaneiro. 2011. David AlanHarvey India. Varanasi. 2011. Nikos Economopoulos France. 2000. HarryGruyaert Magnum Photographers. Denim by 2016. to betheheroof thedenim world. jeans. ItisMavi’s strongestdesire deserves abetter world andsuperior denim. Each new denimgeneration there willnever beaworld without rich history. Mavi isconvinced that intersection of denimandMagnum’s built oncurated scenesfromthe anecdotes deepensthealliance the page. The addition of personal the world’s sharpesteyes leapfrom philosophies. Moments captured by about theirwork and withsimilar Magnum, two institutionspassionate a collaboration between Mavi and inevitable. Thisbookgrew outof fit andfeel.Someencounters are obliged Mavi tostrive fortheperfect can endlesslycreate fashion,but not onlytaught Mavi how thefabric denim fashion.Denim,asamedium, reflecting thisinthecreation of

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 29 I loveMavi 7 4 1 2 8 5 3 9 6 4. CihanMücahitAkın 2. Alexander Kenton 3. AniaBoniecka 8. Laurie Ferraro 6. DilaraKöseler 7. Paola Alberdi 1. Ayca Kaçmaz 9. SenaErcan 5. Kayla Seah 19 16 13 10 17 14 11 15. SudeNazCilve 11. SalihcanBayar 18. Gökçen Arıkan 12. Merve Altıntaş 10. LeonieHanne 20. MelisHelvacı 13. JuliaMateian 17. Ayşe Köroğlu 14. EsraKoçhan 16. BüşraMutlu 19. MelisAydın 20 18 15 12

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 31 Network? US Blogger in Mavi’s Who isWho, MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 32 selection ofsomeMavi’s favorite USbloggers. keep upwiththelatest fashion,we offer you a a separate tastemaker. For thosewhowant to the primarypoolofinspiration andeach ofthem had itseyes gluedto them,regardingthemas impact. For thepastten years, Maviology has began to beknown as‘influencers’dueto their of bloggerinto somethingmoreserious.They the beautiful quicklytransformed theconcept among themto discover andreveal thenew and a new sourceofinspiration. Thecompetition and, whileexhibiting theirown styles,created fashion throughtheirpersonalpreferences First-generation fashionbloggersapproached following that isgrowing everyday. and colorshasanengaged She enjoys playing withsilhouettes very muchclassicandgirly-chic. Spanish blogger, Paola’s styleis An up-and-comingMexican-American- 601K followers www.instagram.com/blankitinerary www.blankitinerary.com Paola Alberdi forward piecesarestaplesinherstyle. style. Clean,minimalandfashion- embodying NYcoolandEastCoast Danielle isanabsolutecity-girl 1.6M followers www.instagram.com/weworewhat www.weworewhat.com Danielle Bernstein which herfollowers respondto. denim-heavy, andsheisvery authentic goes. Her style isclean, comfortable and Nichole isthesporty-spiceassaying 401K followers www.instagram.com/nicholeciotti www.vanillaextract.me Nichole Ciotti minimal West Coaststyle. blogger withavery uniquely Mija isaMunich-bred,LA-based 871K followers www.instagram.com/mija_mija www.mijaflatau.com Mija Flatau mix thosepieceswithbasicstaples. rich-in-color trendscloselyand likes to bit of aEuropeanflare. Shefollows the Brittany isanall-Americangirlwitha 528K followers www.instagram.com/thriftsandthreads www.thriftsandthreads.com Brittany Xavier other prominent bloggersaswell. not onlyby fashionlovers, butby blogger-sphere. Sheisfollowed door withahugeinfluenceinthe Sonya istheuber-cool,girlnext 1.8M followers www.instagram.com/sonyaesman www.classisinternal.com Sonya Esman grunge withahint of Woodstock. the group. HerstyleissuperCali Courtney istherock‘n’rollrebelof 278K followers www.instagram.com/alwaysjudging www.alwaysjudging.com Courtney Tropp enjoys athleisure onadailybasis. (fitness inspiration). She’s athletic and fitness blogandisknown asafitspo her infamousderriere. Shehasa Jen isasocialmediasensation with 10.5M followers www.instagram.com/jenselter/ www.jenselter.com Jen Selter showing witha hint of Coachella-chic. very muchCali glam,body-conandskin- songstress-model-blogger. Herstyleis Jessi isthetriplethreat of theteam:a 337K followers www.instagram.com/jessimalay www.mywhiteT.com Jessi Malay

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 33 glam ordowntown looks. current trendsandenjoys creating girl! Shepicksuponallthe Cassandra isyour ultimate city- 55.3K followers www.instagram.com/dressedfordreams www.dressed4dreams.com Cassandra DiMicco shoulder iswhat makes hersuccessful. chic, butnever givingthetrendsacold Francophone, simpleandelegant- Michelle isanother New York based 122K followers www.instagram.com/cremedemichelle www.cremedemichelle.com Crème deMichelle MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 34 Mediterranean laid-back vibe. a mixof New Yorker chicanda here fromAustralia, she’s embraced Mavis morethanany! Sincemoving within theUS,Charlotte loves her Probably oneof ourbiggestfans 105K followers www.instagram.com/winstonandwillow www.winstonandwillow.com Charlotte Bridgeman style isNortheast-prepmeets city-chic. bigger fanof ourmaternity wear! Her of theFeather Collection andaneven became amother. Shewas abigfan Carina’s basedinNew York andrecently 17K followers www.instagram.com/heropenwindow www.heropenwindow.com Carina Rodriguez comfort. Boyfriend styles are her go-to’s. She likes cleanlines,classicbasicsand for partneringupwithmany key brands. a nameforherselfinthedenim industry Based inSanFrancisco, Kate hasmade 81K www.instagram.com/kateogata www.thefancypantsreport.com Kate Ogata epitome of French-chic! France, Jenny’s style isthe Even thoughshe isnot from 100K followers www.instagram.com/tsangtastic www.tsangtastic.com Jenny Tsang on oneof hissocialfeeds. easily spot thenewest of thenew and ontrendblogger. You can Anthony isavery fashion-forward 66.3K followers www.instagram.com/oh_anthonio www.ohanthonio.com Anthony Urbano approach toblogging. grungy, andhasavery artistic minimalistic. Sheissomewhat Diana trulyencompassestheword 60K followers www.instagram.com/zhours www.z-hours.com Diana Z is bigintheTumblr/Pinterest realm. she hasavery engaged fan-baseand doesn’t have millionsfollowing her, blogger community. Even thoughshe Natascha isabigplayer inthemodel- 72.2K followers www.instagram.com/nataschaelisa www.insearchofsadie.com Natascha Elisa collections each season. she keeps upwithournewest She loves thebrandsomuch 66.9K followers www.instagram.com/amy_marietta www.amymarietta.com Amy Marietta who isnow based inNew York. as well. She’s anative Australian, has beenatruefollower of thebrand from WinstonandWillow, andshe Cheralee isafriendof Charlotte’s 66.1K followers www.instagram.com/cheraleelyle www.ascotroad.com Cheralee Lyle in theMarieClaireOctober 2016issue. Tandya was namedthe“Next BigThing” 37.4K followers www.instagram.com/simplytandya www.simplytandya.com Tandya rock high-waisted skinnieslike her. when shedoes, noother bloggercan doesn’t screamboho-comfy;however LA. Sherarelyputsonanything that girl, bredinAustralia andbasedin Gabby istheultimate Mediterranean 19.9K followers www.instagram.com/gpvs_ www.gpvsdiary.com Gabby Smith stripes andheavy ondenim. American withlots of greys, blacks, Crystalin’s styleisvery Franco- 58.5K followers www.instagram.com/crystalinmarie www.crystalinmarie.com Crystalin DaSilva

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 35 Maviology 20 Yearsof style becamethedominant trend. for Maviology.Thefollowing year, LA Angeles lifestyleinhisfashion shoots Mert Marcusgave hisslant onLos 2011 the top50modelsinworld. Kortajarena andAdamSennareamong of Kendra Spears,AlineWeber, John by MarianoVivanco. Ourdreamteam White-Trim concept withphotographs Maviology introduced Mavi Goldandthe 2012 prominent figureforMaviology. Maviology’s fashionshoots, isstill a (Chico), whohasparticipated in Brazilian modelFrancisco Lachowski 2013 sponsorship andhasexceeded itsgoals. The project continues underMavi’s sea turtlesintheMediterranean. Turtles project aimedat saving 15,000 Maviology announcestheIndigo 2014 by Magnum Photographers. inspires the2016bookDenim by ThreeMagnum Photographers,” Maviology’s article, “DenimWatch 2015 the cover of GQ’s firstissueof 2017. fashion shots. LuckyBlueappearedon birthday withmodelLuckyBlueSmith Maviology celebrates Mavi’s 25th 2016 Maviology is20years old! 2017 A Countdownfrom2017to1997 to publishinEnglishabroad. Turkey’s firstyouth culturemagazine In itstenth year, Maviologybecomes 2007 new-generation youth movement. exhibition andthesymbol of the These photographs becameanart through photographs by Ahmet Polat. Atak socialresponsibilityprojects Maviology memorializeditsTOG 2008 artists live andwork today. in NYC, wheremany celebrated including Greenpoint andBushwick beyond theWilliamsburgquarter, of various Brooklynneighborhoods Maviology announcesthedevelopment 2009 at theWorld Architecture Festival. are recognizedasthebestinworld projects, Erginoğlu&ÇalışlarArchitects Maviology fortheirhigh-profile design Just months afterappearingin 2010

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 37 2011 2002 1997 2013 2005 1998 2016 2009 2001 It was sorelymistaken. replace classroomeducation. ten years, cyber schoolswill Maviology claimsthat, within 1997 pair inNimes,France. oldest bluejeans;a17thcentury Maviology reveals theworld’s 1998 Prize awarded seven years later. Red, anticipating the writer’s Nobel Pamuk forhisnovel MyNameis Maviology congratulates Orhan 1999 enormous holeright inthecenter. ever amagazine isprinted withan Zero,” andprobablyforthefirsttime the Millennium,is“ThePower of Maviology’s theme, dedicated to 2000 Ibiza isstillsoin2017... claims itisaclubbingparadise. Maviology goestoIbizaand 2001 and announcesittotheworld. first contemporary artexhibition, Maviology visitsNew Art, Iran’s 2002 readers learnedaboutit. the GulfWar. OnlyMaviology the jackets of USsoldiersduring Maviology discovers anote inside 2003 award at AspenShortfest2007. Adizes receives theBestShortFilm as apromisingyoung director. American director Topaz Adizes Maviology introduces the 2004 many globaltravel magazines. declared asthecoolestcityby in theworld. In2007,Istanbulis one of themostpleasant cities Maviology describesIstanbulas 2005 organic denimproduction. first topublishnews about Maviology isamongthe 2006

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 39 “G Heritage ofSyros The Industrial took, theisland contains cluesabout the direction itsrapid development earliest industrialization. Because of Ermoupoli, becamehometoGreece’s In the19thcentury, theisland’s capital, noted primarilyforitsindustrialheritage. Islands intheSouthernAegean anditis Greek civilization. It’s oneof theCyclades Parthenon orDelosforrelicsof Ancient in summer. Itcannot rival Olympia,the collectively referred toas“theislands” Mykonos, Santorini orPatmos, which are noted forbeautiful scenery, like also not oneof thosetourismcenters seen inthesamesentence. Syrosis MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 40 design” arenot termscommonly REEK ISLAND”AND“industrial it. Thefirstisthe ApolloTheater, past, ithastwo aspects that distinguish While Syroshasaricharcheological forget they areonan island. away timeinthenearby cafescan City HallinMiaouli Squareorwhiling example, peoplewandering around it theairof aEuropeancapital.For buildings, squaresandstreets give islands; themagnificent neo-classical is distinct fromthetypicalGreek the formof anatural amphitheater, harbor settlement, whichassumes out initsarchitectural anatomy. The One of theseis,undoubtedly, carved every phaseof industrialhistory.

claims thecountry’s firstpostoffice. Greek constitution. What’s more, it Syros played avitalrolein shaping the and theleather, silkandmetals trade, it had attained fromshipbuilding, the sameperiod.Usinginfluence the religiousbuildingsconstructed in sharing of wealth isalsoapparent in Orthodox population resultingfromthe The rarefusionof theCatholic and Greek ClassicismandtheRenaissance. Pietro Campo, the buildingbridges 1820s. Designedby theItalianarchitect international commercialcenter fromthe with Syros’transformation into an and isasymbolof thewealth that came which resemblesLaScalainMilan,

Syros, Syros, Apollo Theater Apollo bought Enfield Automotive in1972 founded onSyros in1861.Goulandris of theNeorioncompany, whichwas Giannis Goulandris,the1970s owner 1973 and1977isinthismuseum is manufactured inEngland between vehicle fromaproduction runof 120 electric cars.Thereasonthe104th electric car, aforerunnerof today’s islands, isatwo-seater Enfield8000 a uniqueinstitutionfortheGreek at Ermoupoli’s IndustrialMuseum, the islandin1970s.Ondisplay in industrialdesignoccurredon War II,asecondsignificant revival importance declinedafterWorld Although theisland’s economic

gazing at magnificent architecture. backgammon incoffee houses and seemingly farfromanywhere, playing its inhabitants, wholive unobtrusively, few touristswhoventure thereandfor the AegeanIslandcrowds both forthe Syros is,therefore, anescapefrom manufacturing onSyros. industrial regulations undermined market, Greekbureaucracy and Despite dreamsof entering theUS for useinhiscleanaircampaign. three Enfield8000stoCalifornia Reagan, sent acargoplanetobring then-governor of California,Ronald to conventional ideasof theday. The Konstantine Adraktas,rancounter aerodynamics, thebrainchildof The Enfield8000’s revolutionary brought thisendeavor totheisland. automotive designandmanufacture, and, setting hissights onelectric

Ermoupoli’s Industrial Museum Industrial Ermoupoli’s Enfield 8000 electric car on display at at display on car electric 8000 Enfield of captured moments. Weiwei also a singleimage made upof thousands January 2015andApril2016. Itforms the artistonhissmartphonebetween collage of 12,030 images taken by camps. TheiPhoneWallpaper is a into thelivingconditionswithin mostly candidshots providing insights hundreds of dailyphotos andvideos, his firstvisittoLesbos,hehasposted the refugee andmigrant crisis.Since year inaneffort todraw attention to Aegean islandof Lesvos earlierlast The artistset upastudioontheeastern the sculpture of theCycladic art. features that characterize muchof male figurewiththesmooth, angular marble colossus,aschematic, upright work now sits.Standing Figureisa collection alongsideof whichhis directly withthemuseum’s permanent Greece’s history, andengaging a bridgebetween hispractice and specifically forthisexhibition, building Ai Weiwei created anew work works onAegean immigration issue. accompanied by thephotojournalists’ (2012) and“Mask”(2011)were “Grapes” (2011),“DivinaProportione” including previous projects suchas social andpoliticalaffairs.25works, cultural heritage, aswell ascurrent of AiWeiwei’s exploring historyand archaeological museumforthereason the artist’s firsttobehostedby an Art Museum.Thedisplay isbilledas Cycladic” lastautumn at theCycladic exhibition inGreece“AiWeiwei at Aegean tragedy Ai Weiweion C Ai Weiwei presented hisfirstsolo HINESE ARTISTANDACTIVIST

Standing Figure

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 43 from traveling abroad, engaging in Upon hisrelease, hewas prohibited allegations of “economic crimes.” being filed;officials alludedtotheir 81 days withoutany official charges Airport onApril3rd,hewas heldfor arrest at BeijingCapital International day China.In2011,following his the qualityof humanlifeinmodern- corruption andcover-ups, aswell as He hasinvestigated government democracy andhumanrights. Chinese government’s stanceon highly andopenlycriticalof the and politicalactivist, hehasbeen artist, architect, writer, filmmaker China inrecent decades. Asan outspoken artiststoemergefrom is oneof themostsignificant and Born inBeijing1957,AiWeiwei migrant crisisacross Greece. management of therefugee and number of NGOsinvolved inthe will benefit acarefully selected museum shopandsponsorships, sales of tickets, merchandiseat the the show’s total proceeds,including Macedonia border. Ten percent of migrant camplocated at theGreece- visited theIdomenirefugee and MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 44 Ai Weiwei

Rebar and Case

Tyre

Divina Proportione

Finger

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 45 MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 46 iPhone Wallpaper

Cao

Surveillance Camera With Plinth

the animal that looks like a llama but is really an alpaca pavilions allaroundtheworld. and hashad major exhibitions and Stadium forBeijing’s 2008Olympics design of theNational “Bird’s Nest” served asartisticconsultant onthe Earthquake victims in2008,Aialso Investigation” into theSichuan projects suchashis“Citizens’ engaging inmany long-termresearch the oldChinaandnew. Aswell as and jade, unitingpastandpresent; wood fromdestroyed temples,marble materials suchasancient pottery, works heoften usesreclaimed political messages. Inhissculptural modes of thought withcontemporary marry traditional Chinesecraftand scale installations, whichconceptually known forhissculptures andlarge- to himin2015.AiWeiwei isbest His passportwas eventually returned continued government surveillance. public speech,andwas subjected to Mask

MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 47 A ManandaPlant MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 48 W supervision. After hisfather diedand education underhisstepmother’s at theage of five yet received agood of anotary public, helosthismother change Mediterraneanflora.Theson de Bougainville would permanently would have guessedthat LouisAntoine At hisbirthinParis1729,no one conception of theoutcomeof hiswork. French admiral, whocouldhave had no The protagonist of thisstoryisa interesting storybehinditsprevalence. habitat spanstheglobe. Thereisan attractive, brightly coloredvine’s you encounter bougainvillea. This America ortheMediterranean, HEREVER YOU GOinSouth He tookwithhimAntoine-Joseph on thedesolate Falkland Islands. the intent of establishingacolony ocean voyage withtwo shipswith passed, Bougainville undertookan In 1763,afterthewindsof war had this isnot hisclaimtofame. of Nouvelle-France. However, and heearnedaplace asafounder received astreamof promotions military campaignstothisend, his worth by fighting inallthe as acolony. Bougainville, proving Louis XVwere toretain Canada to Canada. State policiesunder he joinedthenavy andwas posted his uncletookhimunderwing, over thecourseof histwo-year journey. named innumerablepiecesof land love. Bougainville had discovered and Joséphine, Napoléon’s legendary discovered inBrazil1767to gift of aflowering plant hehad botanist PhilibertCommerson’s a chainof events sparked by the The actual topicof thisarticleis would behisscientists. discoveries andhisnew companions tour theworld pursuingscientific of interest. Henceforth, hewould developing Bougainville’s areas His presencewas instrumental in had studiedMagellan’s routewell. Pernety, anatural scientist who The world tourof de Bougainville Louis Antoine Bougainvillea

50 MAVIOLOGY S/S 2017 MAVIOLOGY

Maviology

Publisher on behalf of Mavi Giyim San. & Tic. A.Ş. Elif Akarlılar

Associate publisher Pınar Gözeri

Editor İzzeddin Çalışlar

Design Esen Karol But it was this vine that takes Many historical personalities are Contributors center stage because, named remembered for their works, and Alissa Friedman after Bougainville, it transformed a they have statues erected in their Görkem Çoşar continent, spreading like wild fire, memory, signs pinned to their past Manolya Fikri Saner Gülsöken first in Southern Europe and then to residences, or hallowed graves, such Selin Ekincioğlu all the shores of the Mediterranean, as those at the Pantheon. In contrast, Zeynep Bölükbaşı adding character to all water basins. Bougainville is remembered through Cover Photo the countless places and things bearing Emre Doğru Assuming significant duties on his name, which is a rare tribute. his return to the navy, from 1792 Fonts used in this issue Fairplex Narrow Bougainville again devoted himself to While scrub is traditional to the by Zuzana Licko, Emigre science and to his children’s education. Mediterranean, it is possible to see F Grotesk by Radim Pesko Plants were central to his life and bougainvillea wherever people have Published by he became a revered count and the settled. Those who love this vine, Mavi Giyim Sanayi Ticaret A.Ş. owner of a magnificent garden. To invasive by nature and of striking Sultan Selim Mah. tend it, he hired as gardener the colors ranging from yellow to Eski Büyükdere Cad. No: 53 Kağıthane 34418 İstanbul young Christophe Cochet who, with purple, willingly suffer its thorns. Phone: +90 212 371 20 00 Joséphine’s assistance, brought rose [email protected] seedlings from China, thus creating Text and photographs: www.mavi.com İzzeddin Çalışlar a profitable 28-hectare rose-growing Printed by business for him and his family. Mas Matbaacılık San. ve Tic. A.Ş. Hamidiye Mah., Soğuksu Cad., 3, Kağıthane, Istanbul, Turkey Phone: +90 212 294 10 00 [email protected]

Printed in Istanbul February 2017 Photographer: Saner Gülsöken Photographer: Urban Flowers An Urban Flower — 2 Mavi S/S 2017 collection — 4 Cuba’s Urban Flowers — 11 Mavi loves music — 15 A new book by Mavi — 21 I love Mavi — 28 Who is Who, in Mavi’s US Blogger Network? — 30 20 Years of Maviology — 34 The Industrial Heritage of Syros — 38 Ai Weiwei on Aegean tragedy — 41 A Man and a Plant — 46 SPRING–SUMMER 2017

www.mavi.com