Gananoque to Marble Rock

Topographic Map 31 C/8 Reference Map GananoqueROUTE to Marble Rock 1 The southernmost section of the Gananoque River is below the dam at Marble Rock. The river empties into the St. Lawrence River in the town of Gananoque. The distance from the St. Lawrence to Marble Rock dam is a little more than 11 kilometres, and with the portage, possibly four to five hours on the water. The trip is worth beginning at the St. Lawrence itself, but would involve one necessary portage just a short distance above the St. Lawrence, at series of falls and a dam. At present, however, while there is a public walkway over most of the length of the portage around the falls, the actual access point on the lower section of the river has not been finalized. The settlement of Gananoque came with the exodus of United Empire Loyalists from the United DEPARTURE POINT States, in the late 1700s. This loca- tion, where the Gananoque River flowed into the St. Lawrence was A place to begin is at the public dock in front of the town’s Heritage Village. a prime candidate for settle - There are parking lots just across the street. In actual fact, begin the exploration ment. Rivers, in those days, were at the Arthur Child Heritage Centre. The displays and gallery have a great intro- both transportation routes and duction to the history and culture of the region,and the town. Shops around the sources of power. Here was a village include a book store, souvenirs and treats. very unusual opportunity, because of the sets of falls and rapids so close to the major route of the St. Lawrence. The Ganan - oque was a great and reliable TRIP LENGTH AND DISTANCE flow that was quickly harnessed The distance from the St. Lawrence to Marble Rock dam is a little more than for grist mills, and before long to turn water wheels for factories of 11 kilometres, and with the portage, possibly four to five hours on the water. all sorts. The trip is worth beginning at the St. Lawrence itself, but would involve one necessary portage just a short distance above the St. Lawrence, at series of falls and a dam. Notes of History POINTS OF INTEREST Early growth of the town is largely credited to Colonel Joel Stone, a United Empire Loyalist from Single Lane Bridge Connecticut who obtained a grant of land for the The single-lane steel bridge crossing the Gananoque River as it enters the St. east side of the river here. Stone was an entrepre- Lawrence is an unusual design. It is a swing bridge, designed to pivot on the neur, and soon employed timber cutters who central pillar, geared to be turned 90º to open a passage for larger boats floated their logs down the Gananoque to the St. entering and leaving the river. Lawrence. He as well built a first flour mill at the falls, able to handle grain from local farms and, Today, the east bank of this lower section of the river is lined with boathouses, before long, shipping surplus production to other most of which are owned with the houses on the bluff above. One of the first communities. By the 1820s, a large mill at the town houses and boathouses in from the swing bridge was owned by a local boat established Gananoque as a major milling centre, builder, Ray Andress, who built small boats and runabouts, as well as a version with Durham boats—river cargo carriers of the of the unique St. Lawrence skiff. The St. John’s Catholic Church is the largest day—delivering substantial amounts of flour downriver to Montreal, and beyond. building on the skyline. Further along, closer to the falls, there are derelict factory buildings. By the 1870s, there were as many as 49 mills and factories along this section of the Gananoque Stone’s Mills River. The town earned the nickname of “Little The west bank still recalls the days when the river was intimately involved with Birmingham”, after the industrial city of England. industry. A 19th century brick factory stands near the entrance to the river, Factories made hardware such as bolts, nails, and further along, past Brennan’s Marina, is a cluster of restored stone and shovels and rakes; iron and wooden fittings for carriages and steamboats; and even renowned brick buildings fishing lures. While none of those earlier factories is still in production, or water-powered, there are a number of the old buildings still standing along the river banks. In fact, very near the portage point below the first falls, the river pours out from under one of the older buildings, where power is gener- ated by the former Gananoque Light and Power Company, now owned by Fortis Ontario. Notes of History The Portage It is hard to imagine with the development Nearing the falls, the curre nt becomes quite noticeable. Before reaching the botto m of of the town today, the portage traces the falls, it will be necessary to pull in to the bank and pull your boat, to portage. The almost precisely the same route used by access point here is at the grassy strip on the east bank, beside the fenced area with the First Nations peoples. Archaeological finds electric transformers. A laneway leads up and around the old mill buildings, to King Street. show that this path around the sets of rapids and falls was in regular use to at The carry is about 300 metres, crossing King Street, following the wide walkway along the least 3,000 years ago. The course of the west side of the old railway building that today houses the Gananoque Chamber of Com- Gananoque River accesses the interior, merce and Museum, and which comes to another old railway trestle across the river. This along the waterways of numerous rivers, trestle has been converted to a walkway, and crossing that, the launch access point is on lakes and streams. the west side, north of the trestle. Perhaps it was knowledge of this ancient route that lead Colonel John By to con - sider the Gananoque and waterways beyond as an alternative to the Rideau Canal route that he eventually chose to bypass the potentially militarily treacher - ous St. Lawrence. The Gananoque was more secure and defensible from warships that could easily assault Kingston and the canal entrance at the Cataraqui River off Lake Ontario. However, the volume of water flow on the Gananoque River was considerable less than on the Cataraqui. On the Portage This portage lands you in downtown Gananoque, where it would be well worth while to dally and explore. Conveniently, at the King Street crossing, is the Chamber of Commerce office, an excellent source of information about the town, and activities curre ntly under- way. The museum, next door, and the town hall across the park, are wonderful insights into the history of Gananoque. The town hall was at one time the residence of one of the prin- cipal founding fathers, Colonel Joel Stone. Along King Street, to the east of the portage, is the main business district with all types of shops where one can find whatever supplies needed for the duration of the paddle. As well, near the downtown are several inns, bed & breakfast accommodations, and motels. www.gananoque.com for more information Notes of History Above the Falls The section of the Gananoque River above the Currently, an access point to the river above the falls in Gananoque is at the foot falls in the town to the dam at Marble Rock is a of Railway Street, on the west and north side of the old railway trestle bridge. This tranquil paddle. There are three more bridges bridge no longer has tracks, and has been converted to part of the system of over the river at the town. The first of these is a walking trails being developed for the town. Follow the path across the bridge, one-way automobile bridge, with a wooden and around the chain link fence. Boats can be launched, or hauled, from the deck, at Machar Street. The second is another railway trestle, from the same rail line as is now grassy bank. part of the Gananoque trail system, just above the town’s upper falls. This railway line, now aban- Should your trip be starting from this point, cars can be parked roadside along doned and with the rails themselves removed, the street at the open parkland. was called the Thousand Islands Railway. It was a narrow gauge rail line, built before times when the Words of caution: The current here is strong, and especially so in spring, because of heavier flow in runoff. with of such lines were standardized. The Thou- Control your boat carefully, and stay near the river bank, not venturing out to centre channel where you sand Islands Railway was once very important to may be carried against the low girders supporting the trestle, and your craft overturned. Your safety is your the town of Gananoque, as it carried not only own responsibility. passengers but considerable freight as manufac- tured goods from the town’s factories. The line The third bridge is that of highway 401. It was built before the rail line was discontinued, crossed the river three times in the town, and and so is higher and wider than what normally would have been put in place, to accom- went from the waterfront at the site of a large milk modate the passage of trains. An interesting spin-off of this construction is a passage and cheese plant, the Cow & Gates Company, way used to a degree by wildlife, tracing the thickets and river banks.

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