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Topography of the Gold Range and Northern Selkirks, British Columbia Author(S): Howard Palmer Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol

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Topography of the Gold Range and Northern Selkirks, British Columbia Author(S): Howard Palmer Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol Topography of the Gold Range and Northern Selkirks, British Columbia Author(s): Howard Palmer Source: The Geographical Journal, Vol. 57, No. 1 (Jan., 1921), pp. 21-29 Published by: geographicalj Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1781201 Accessed: 27-06-2016 12:10 UTC Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at http://about.jstor.org/terms JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Wiley, The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to The Geographical Journal This content downloaded from 178.250.250.21 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 12:10:27 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms TOPOGRAPHY OF THE GOLD RANGE 21 in the expedition, and, as Captain LongstafF has said, clothed well and shod well. If these matters are looked after, I am certain amongst these Himalayan people there can be got together a party of well-trained men who will form a carrying party for the expedition. As regards survey. One would very much hope that a member of the Survey of India should be the first to climb Mount Everest. There is no reason why that hope should not be combined with the President of the Alpine Club's suggestion that the climber of Everest should be a member of the Club. As Captain LongstafF has said, there are two very fine Alpine Club climbers already in the Survey of India, and the more members of the Survey of India who join the Alpine Club the better. Lastly, I should like to corroborate all General Bruce has said as to the Duke of the Abruzzi's expedition having been a model one. We could not do better than model our own expedition for Everest upon the model of the Duke of the Abruzzi's K2 expedition. Now I will ask you to join with me in giving a very hearty vote of thanks to General Bruce for his valuable paper. General Bruce is one of those men who have explored most in the Himalayas, and all his observations upon the treatment of the people are of special value because he belongs to a Gurkha regiment, and no man knows how to handle people of the Himalayas better than he does. It is known probably to most of you that in the Gallipoli campaign his presence alone was considered worth a whole Brigade. TOPOGRAPHY OF THE GOLD RANGE AND NORTHERN SELKIRKS, BRITISH COLUMBIA Howard Palmer ALTHOUGH British Columbia, the valley has ofbeen the a routeColumbia of travel River for north a century, of Revelstoke, and fifty years ago it was the scene of a full-fledged " gold rush," there is available no adequate account of its physical features. Bordered on the east by the outlying foothills of the Selkirks and on the west by the Gold Range, both of which occupied practically unmapped territory, it promised to well repay geographical investigation. The present paper aims to report briefly the results of a month's reconnaissance of the region made by the late Major Robert H. Chapman and the writer. From Revelstoke on the Canadian Pacific Railway there extends northerly along the river for 117 miles "The Big Bend Trail." This is maintained by the Government for fire patrol purposes, and affords practically the only land communication with the district embraced within the great northerly loop of the Columbia. A ferry near the tip of the Bend enables connection to be made with another section of the Government trail that strikes the railway again at Donald. We were told that branch trails gave access to some of the lateral valleys, and by these we planned to penetrate into the Selkirks and make a plane-table survey of as much of the new ground as we could. We expected to extend the author's earlier surveys of the lofty Mount Sir Sandford district westerly This content downloaded from 178.250.250.21 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 12:10:27 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 22 TOPOGRAPHY OF THE GOLD RANGE AND over the lower intervening mountains, utilizing his stations to obtain the plane-table locations.* With two men and three pack-horses, we set out from Revelstoke on June 22. Although south of the town the valley floor is more than a mile wide all the way to the Arrow Lakes, to the north it disappears altogether and the river rushes rapidly through a narrow and steep-sided valley for most of the distance to the "Big Bend." Dense luxuriant evergreen forests fill the entire landscape, so that until Carnes Creek, 20 miles distant, is reached, only the rough lower slopes of the mountains can be seen. Over these along the easterly bank the trail winds in a haphazard way, with many an up and down, keeping closely to the river. Cut-banks and the gorges of side torrents present oft-recurring obstacles. Near Carnes Creek the valley bends to the west and the Gold Range takes on a more imposing aspect, supporting glaciers here and there. The most conspicuous peak is " The Frenchman's Cap," a Sir Donald-like prong of dark rock which rises 7000 feet abruptly from the Columbia to a height of 8500 feet above the sea. Farther back from the river a group of serrate peaks is possibly a little higher. The general arrangement of the Gold Range for 100 miles north of Revelstoke may be compared to the bones of a fish?the water-parting, from io to 20 miles west of the river, serving as the backbone, while roughly parallel spurs and subsidiary ranges branch off diagonally in an easterly or south-easterly direction. The valleys between these lateral ridges are deep and U-shaped, often becoming actual gorges as they debouch into the Columbia. In the other direction they generally open out into spacious upland basins and snowy plateaus. Several are typical hanging valleys. The mountains rise to heights between 8000 and 9000 feet, and as the Columbia averages only a little more than 1500 feet above the sea, the terrain displays a by no means insignificant relief. For convenient description, this 100-mile section of the range naturally falls into two parts: the first, extending from Eagle Pass on the raiiroad 50 miles to the pass at the headwaters of Gaffney Creek, where a wide low saddle opens through into the basin of the Seymour River on the west; the second, from Gaffney Creek Pass northerly to the valley of Canoe River. In the first division, the mountain ridges are characterized over great distances by even crests and long sweeping lines, with flattish slopes dipping towards the north-east. On these the principal glaciers are to be found, a few being several square miles in area. For fully 8 miles south-easterly from Gaffney Creek Pass an almost continuous glacier mantle covers the northerly slopes. Towards the west and south-west the gradients are more abrupt, oftentimes breaking out in lofty cliffs. * See " Explorations about Mount Sir Sandford," Geographical Joutnal, vol. 38, pp. 170-179 (1911), with map ; and * Mountaineering and Exploration in the Selkirks5 (1914), by Howard Palmer, pp. I39~393f maps and illustrations. This content downloaded from 178.250.250.21 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 12:10:27 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms NORTHERN SELKIRKS, BRITISH COLUMBIA 23 A few of the outlying spurs exhibit a fretted topography, apparently due to the action of local glaciers. The " Frenchman's Cap " group mentioned above is typical of this sculpture and appears to contain the dominating elevations in the section. Between Gaffney Creek Pass and Canoe River the Gold Range takes on a more rugged character, although preserving the arrangement already noted. The general uplift increases, and both the main axis of the system and its offshoots display more individual peaks. A sub-equality of elevation is noticeable here as well as in the Selkirks and the Rockies. There are fewer of the broad, slightly tilted slopes, so favourable for the alimentation of glaciers, and we find a corresponding decrease in the number as well as in the size of the latter, although in the neighbourhood of the pass there are some extensive neves. The most prominent elevation hereabouts is the Gordonhorne (about 9500 feet). This is well seen from the trail when approaching Goldstream, and apart from the " Frenchman's Cap" is the only mountain of note visible fronj the depths of the valley. We obtained a splendid view of this entire section from a peak between the head of McCulloch Creek, a small northerly tributary of Goldstream, and the Columbia. Although only 7950 feet high, it commanded the whole range from Mount Begbie near Revelstoke at the south, to the high mountains along Canoe River at the north, a clean sweep of 100 miles. It was somewhat of a surprise to note a pronounced scarcity of important and really prominent peaks for so extended an array. It is a question whether any exceed an elevation of 10,500 feet, but there are three and possibly four that are entitled to be ranked in the 10,000-foot class. The chief of these appeared to be on the westerly facade of the range about 30 miles distant, well beyond the westerly source of Horne Creek.
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