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Zapaturismo in San Cristóbal De Las Casas, Mexico: Marketplace Capitalism Meets Revolutionary Tourism

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Zapaturismo in San Cristóbal De Las Casas, Mexico: Marketplace Capitalism Meets Revolutionary Tourism Zapaturismo in San Cristóbal de las Casas, Mexico: Marketplace capitalism meets revolutionary tourism By: Ginna Berg A Thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies In partial fulfilment of the requirements of the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Anthropology University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba Copyright © 2008 by Ginna Berg Abstract The EZLN (Ejército Zapatista de Liberacíon Nacional) resistance in Chiapas, Mexico remade the image of San Cristóbal from a quaint tourist destination to a location of adventure and social revolution. The Zapatista, and their ideas of Zapatismo, according to some North American social activists, was a keystone movement facing off against the pressures of neo-liberal capitalism. One of the most notable contributions has been the stimulation of an overwhelming rise in international solidarity actors to the area. These factors along with a proximity to popular Maya archaeological sites, a high population of Indigenous Maya, and pivotal Spanish history reflected in colonial architecture, combine to lure international tourists to the area. My intention for this project is to examine the confluence of tourist and host as they together set a tourist market based on many things, but in particular on the ongoing Zapatista revolution and how this social movement has become an invitation to perform as activists and humanitarians, as well as tourists. ii Acknowledgements I start by acknowledging the members of my committee who have watched my drafts come and go, and have done so with patience and valuable comments. To Dr. Susan Frohlick who has been with me from the very start. I owe so much of this work to her. To Dr. Jessaca Lienaweaver for staying with me until my completion, and Dr. Jorge Nallim for his valuable perspectives in this new area of study for me. I have had the great fortune to be challenged and given exceptional opportunities by my professors and the staff of the department. Dr Judd, Dr. Wiest, Dr.Heald, Dr. Hoppa, Dr. Buddle-Crowe, and many others have been my teachers, and I am greatful for their guidance. To my family up north, who also endure this long process, and who lent me their confidence. And para mi familia in Mexico who took my political involvement as only family could, learning to bear with my learning curve and have the good nature to laugh at it all. I want to thank my colleges, friends, and compas for their intellectual and emotional support of this work. For Matt, who gave me much to talk about during those summer days as I took my work to the beach. For Sara, who always found time to read my chapters, and for lending me the “how to” reader that started it off. Also for Asfia, keeping me company those last crucial weeks. A special thanks to the organizations which helped me discover this work; those at the SIPAZ office for showing many parts of a working office, and friends at Frayba who gave me the opportunity to learn for myself. Also to Al Gordano and the crew of Narco News. I want to acknowledge the people of the south. I hope that this work can in some way contribute to what we work towards. I want to thank Xochltl and others at CESEA for inviting me to participate in the discussion so pertinent to these times. I want thank those communities that welcomed me. I acknowledge that the land and spirit of the people of Chiapas have given me more than I could ever repay. This thesis is built with the support of many people however, any errors or remaining mistakes are strictly my responsibility. iii For Travis Õ iv Table of Contents Abstract ................................................................................................................................................ ii Acknowledgments ............................................................................................................................. iii Dedication ..........................................................................................................................................iv Table of Contents ............................................................................................................................. v List of Figures .................................................................................................................................. vii Map of Chiapas ............................................................................................................................... viii Chapter I THIS PLACE CALLED JOVEL: an introduction .................................................................... 1 Chapter II ACTIVIST ETHNOGRAPHY/ ACTIVIST TOURISM: theory and methods .............. 15 2.1 Activism + Research = militant anthropology ............................................................ 16 2.2 The local and the location: participant observation .................................................... 21 2.3 Sharing Narratives: information and interviews .......................................................... 24 2.4 Red alert and the closure of communities .................................................................... 29 2.5 When conflict and tourism meet in the literature ........................................................ 30 2.6 Internationalizing activism ............................................................................................... 35 2.7 Summary.............................................................................................................................. 38 Chapter III A HISTORY OF RELATIONS: the ethnographic setting .................................................... 39 3.1 Rising to Revolt: a brief history of intergalactic relations ......................................... 41 3.2 Translating discourses of the field .................................................................................. 51 3.3 Turismo in San Cristóbal de las Casas ........................................................................... 52 3.4 Mapping ............................................................................................................................... 56 3.5 Summary.............................................................................................................................. 58 Chapter IV REBELLIONS AND RELATIONS: the story of conflict tourism .................................... 60 4.1 “just ordinary tourists”: what tourists say about travel ............................................... 61 4.2 “only passing through”: stop over tourist ..................................................................... 63 4.3 “you know Romancing the Stone?”: tourist seeking adventure ............................... 65 4.4 “to learn for ourselves”: tourist searching personal development ........................... 71 4.6 Summary.............................................................................................................................. 78 Chapter V SELLING THE REVOLUTION: exemplifying the role of commerce in an anti- capitalist movement…………………………………………………………………………80 5.1 More than just good coffee: Zapatismo’s new commerce ........................................ 83 5.2 Weaving as feminized labour’s symbols and struggles ............................................... 87 5.3 The sellable revolution ...................................................................................................... 93 5.4 Good marketing or solidarity? ........................................................................................ 96 5.5 Summary............................................................................................................................ 103 v Chapter VI NETWORKS AND “NETWARS:” strategies of exchange in zapaturismo .................... 104 6.1 Solidarity tourism ............................................................................................................. 106 6.2 San Cristóbal and the business of Zapatista touring ................................................. 111 6.3 Networks ........................................................................................................................... 115 6.4 Rebels and tourists ......................................................................................................... 117 6.5 La Otra Campaña and the Other zapatourist ............................................................. 122 6.6 Summary............................................................................................................................ 124 Chapter VII STRATEGY AND SOLIDARITY: a conclusion ................................................................. 125 Notes ................................................................................................................................................ 132 Works Cited.................................................................................................................................... 135 Appendix 1: Listing of key participants ..................................................................................... 144 vi List of figures Figure 1 Map of Chiapas ............................................................................................................... viii Figure 2 Tourist in transit (by Luis Aguilar Pereda, with permisison) ................................... 13 Figure 3 Road Block, August 26, 2006 ........................................................................................ 15 Figure 4 Political Graffiti in San Cristóbal .................................................................................
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