MAGICAL KENYA: EXOTIC BIRDS & BIG GAME GALORE!

AUGUST 6-23, 2022 © 2021

As a young child I anxiously awaited my weekly TV highlight, Saturday evening’s fabulous British Broadcasting Corporation natural history series. I marveled over incredible footage of exotic wildlife from around the planet while glued to my seat. What deeply influenced and impressed me the most were the unforgettable wildlife spectacles from the East Africa plains—immense herds of big game, and all those fascinating predators, especially the big cats! David Attenborough’s inspirational enthusiasm and fascinating narrative, following the daily dramas that unraveled on those wildlife packed plains, was truly addictive! These vivid childhood memories of breathtaking African big game, and the immensely colorful and diverse African birds of the Rift valley remain permanently engraved in my memories. There was never a doubt in my mind that one day I had to experience the magical wildlife of these vast East Africa plains for myself.

Magnificent alpha male Lion © Andrew Whittaker

Finally, my child hood African dream/obsession became reality! In November of 2020 I was extremely lucky to scout out magical Kenya for myself. My incredible first day’s heavenly safari experience in Nairobi National Park convinced me that anyone who loves nature must experience an African Safari for themselves. A Kenyan safari simply offers a “wildlife trip of a lifetime” that one will forever remember and treasure. Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 2 The famous Ernest Hemingway captured Africa’s magic when he said “I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke up that I was not happy.”

This new trip is planned to highlight one of the most sought- after and greatest wildlife spectacles on Earth, the “Great Wildebeest Migration,” globally renowned for the ever-moving columns of countless big game (approximately 1.5 million wildebeests and hundreds of thousands of zebras, elands and gazelles) that annually enter the Masai Mara in pursuit of its greener nutrient-rich pastures. Along the way, high drama is Topi and Common Zebra on the Masai Mara plains © Andrew Whittaker always present, as thousands of animals are taken by predators, and thousands more are born, replenishing the numbers and sustaining the circle of life. Although never precisely predictable, we will be in the best areas of the Masai Mara at the best time to capture this world-class spectacle.

No words can adequately describe witnessing such a phenomenal wildlife spectacle in these fabled savannas. Imagine yourself right in the midst of this famous migration, the stage set as we witness hundreds and thousands of big game, and the panic and confusion as they cross the crocodile infested Mara or Talek Rivers, while Lions and other large predators patrol the banks, ready to ambush any game that make it to the other side. This time of plenty attracts an unprecedented concentration of big predators and scavengers alike. Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 3 Kenya is truly the wildlife jewel of East Africa and the world’s premier big mammal watching destination, encompassing some of the most breathtaking ecosystems on earth, including the famous Masai Mara where we enjoy a week in the heart of this African paradise. While world famous for its big game, Kenya deserves to be known as a mecca for birders too. Encompassing 1,150 species, Kenya boasts the richest avifauna in all of Africa. Kenya simply offers it all— great infrastructure, safe travel, excellent cuisine and delightfully friendly people. In addition, its avifauna is very confiding and Iconic Secretary Bird © Andrew Whittaker delightfully illustrated in two excellent field guides. During our African birding extravaganza, we will enjoy many of the exciting and colorful classic African families—from ostrich to Hamerkop; iconic Secretary Bird to guineafowl; turacos to mousebirds; wood-hoopoes; bush-shrikes and widowbirds to even blood-loving oxpeckers. Daily bird lists will often exceed 100-120 species.

Our action-packed big game safaris will offer a breath-taking kaleidoscope of avian colors from magnificent bee-eaters, rollers, lovebirds, turacos, hornbills, kingfishers, iridescent sunbirds, gaudy waxbills, and an amazing array of multi-colored glossy starlings! A carefully planned itinerary allows us sufficient time to adequately take in and enjoy the wildlife at each site (and not be overwhelmed). We have time to marvel over the truly outstanding diversity of raptors, vultures, amazing bustards, cryptic sandgrouse, larks, chats, warblers, incredible shrikes, and observe the joyful antics of nesting weavers.

Mouth-watering birding opportunities are even available during our mid-day breaks, as all lodges are set in delightful open wooded habitats teaming with birds. In the Masai Mara, our lodge possesses an excellent raised boardwalk through gallery forest to a Hippo pool and blind. Or instead, you can simply relax in the lodge or take a delightful, refreshing swim in one of the shaded lodge pools while sipping a cool drink and being surrounded by wildlife.

Kenya’s scenery is truly iconic—from vast wilderness plains with rolling hills, magnificent plateaus, and open acacia Lodge pool Samburu © Andrew Whittaker brush dissected by muddy rivers to incredibly rich East African Rift Valley lakes—producing a truly awesome & delightful birding and mammal bonanza. With its mega avian diversity plus sheer numbers of big game, Kenya should certainly be high on your list of priorities, whether you are a new or regular visitor to Africa. We can expect to see a marvelous cross section of iconic African mammals with excellent chances for Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 4 Leopard, Lion and Cheetah plus herds of African Elephant, Giraffe, White Rhino, zebras, Hippos, Buffalos, and an assortment of neat antelope, gazelles and primates.

Tour accommodations are primarily based at two excellent eco-lodges, perfectly located within the heart of two world famous wilderness game reserves, which allows us to focus on experiencing the best of both the Masai Mara & Samburu National Reserves, both brimming with exotic East African birds and mega herds of big game. Sandwiched in-between, we will enjoy a delightful visit to picturesque Lake Baringo, the northern most lake in the East African Rift Valley. Exploring this birding haven on a relaxed morning boat trip is magical.

Samburu reserve holds a superb and excitingly different mix of both mammals and birds than the Masai Mara. Mammal-wise, we will enjoy in particular the attractive Reticulated Giraffe, Grevy’s Zebra, the odd long-necked Southern Gerenuk and very stately Galla (Beisa) Oryx. Our Kenyan safari bonanza begins with a day trip to Nairobi National Park. Famous for its endangered White Rhinos and spectacular assortment of big game and birds alike, with a checklist of over 500 species, we will have lots to keep us happy!

Kenya’s sheer abundance and variety of birds and mammals will provide us with an extraordinary and unforgettable opportunity to see, hear, and fully experience Africa’s exquisite wildlife at its best! Africa is most certainly a photographer’s paradise, allowing your memories to be captured forever, framed in wondrous digital images. To witness the calm, daily rhythm of African wildlife over the vast plains revives our worn souls and recaptures a feeling of belonging to the natural world.

“Africa changes you forever, like nowhere on earth. Once you have been there, you will never be the same. But how do you begin to describe its magic to someone who has never felt it? How can you explain the fascination of this vast, dusty continent, whose oldest roads are elephant paths? Could it be because Africa is the place of all our beginnings, the cradle of mankind, where our species first stood upright on the savannahs of long ago?”

Brian Jackman

August 6-7, Days 1-2: Travel to Nairobi, Kenya. Participants who depart the US on August 6, flying via Europe, will arrive in Africa on the morning of August 7 in Kenya’s capital Nairobi, at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (airport code NBO). Those wishing to minimize the risk of misconnecting or delays are encouraged to consider arriving a day early to be well rested. Upon request, VENT will be happy to assist with additional lodging arrangements and transfers should you choose to do so.

Nairobi is the gateway into Kenya and is a bustling, colorful capital. Here you will be met by our local ground staff and transferred the short 15 minutes from the airport to our hotel. Remarkably, on the drive you may well see your first African game along the roadside. Our delightfully positioned hotel, where a room will be reserved in your name, overlooks the famous Nairobi National Park.

From your room’s private balcony, you can experience your first taste of African big game below as you have a great panoramic view over the open grassy and bushy savannah Dashing and widespread Superb Starling of Nairobi National Park. During our scouting trip, we © Andrew Whittaker Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 5 enjoyed observing (from our room) a pride of Lions that had killed a Cape Buffalo! The hotel restaurant, situated on the upper floors, also overlooks the park and an active waterhole, often teaming with water birds. So, the rule is never to be without your binoculars here. The hotel gardens also offer good birding with ubiquitous Little Swifts, Rock Martin, Hadada Ibis, Yellow-billed Kite, Pied Crow and colonies of Lesser-masked Weaver and White- browed Sparrow-Weaver. Neat Kenya Rufous Sparrow, energetic African Pied Wagtail, and Olive Thrush haunt the lawns while bushes and scrub harbor Bronze Mannikin, Streaky Seedeater, glorious Superb Starlings, sunbirds and more.

Nairobi comes from the Masai phrase “Enkare Nairobi,” which translates to “cool water,” a reference to the Nairobi River running through the city. Nairobi offers a pleasant sub-tropical highland climate at almost 6,000 feet; the days are warm and evenings are very pleasant and may even become cool. The hotel is a truly delightful spot to chill out (having an excellent restaurant & food, a lovely pool where you can enjoy views over the National Park, and birds in the gardens) after your international flight. The VENT office will be pleased to help reserve an extra night or two if you would prefer to arrive early to have time to rest up before beginning your African tour.

NIGHTS: August 6, aboard aircraft en route August 7, Emara Hotel Ole Sereni, Nairobi

August 8, Day 3: Nairobi National Park. Following an early breakfast, we take a short drive to the main Nairobi National Park entrance where our introductory big game and birding safari begins. Kenya’s first ever reserve, opened in 1946, is 117 km2 (45 sq. mi) and crisscrossed by roads, enabling us to explore all of its major habitats. The park supports an astonishing variety and abundance of big game despite being so close to the capital and boasts an incredibly diverse avifauna as well. The park’s checklist is already over 520 species! Birdlife abounds and we can expect to see close to a hundred species of birds today.

Rich lakes, acacia scrub, expansive grasslands, and wooded hills offer a wonderful introduction to the amazing local avifauna and big game alike. During my first visit here, within a minute of entering the park, to my amazement the road was blocked by an enormous, impressive long-necked Masai Giraffe. Completely oblivious of our close proximity, it continued browsing on succulent tree leaves over the middle of the road with an unusual long, bluish tongue.

Birding and game watching out of our specially designed and comfortable safari vehicles with their open tops is superb. Sand bags for any photographers are also a blessing and are magnificent at stabilizing for sharp images and taking excellent video. Kenya’s open country birding is delightfully easy, and we will find as many of the East African targets for you as possible.

Big game highlights should include Lion, Black- backed Jackal, strikingly patterned herds of Common Zebra, Hippos, ugly Common Warthog, large bulky African Buffalo, Bushbuck, Eland, and Kongoni, better known as Hartebeest. An impressive assortment of antelope, should including Thomson’s Gazelles and Impala. However, the true specialty of the park and today’s mammal highlight will certainly be the opportunity to observe the massive and endangered White Rhinos, which love grazing on grass. This reserve is a stronghold for the species. If we are very lucky, we could even encounter a A mammal highlight, the endangered White Rhino much rarer browsing Black Rhino too. © Andrew Whittaker

We will enjoy encounters with many iconic African bird specialties, with the swaths of savanna home to such greats as enormous strutting Common Ostrich and the much sought-after Secretary Birds. Observing this Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 6 emblematic raptor as they effortlessly stride in pairs through the grass on their long, dull red legs in search of their preferred pray, snakes (which they stomp to death), is interesting. Damp areas hold the unique and odd-looking Hamerkop, which is surround by much local superstition and many myths associated with dark magic. Hamerkops construct immense domed nests (the biggest of any African bird), which are well-known and decorated internally with all sorts of strange and often human ornaments. Hence just as sorcerers and witches were well-known to require a possession of a person to perform their spells, Hamerkops do as well. Another interesting fact is that often Gray Kestrel use their huge nests to breed in.

Rich marshes and dams abound with life. Along the muddy edges we will delight in great studies of striking Blacksmith, Spur-winged and Long- toed Lapwing while active Three-banded Plovers scurry around, foraging on the banks. Forested islands provide excellent perches for African Fish Eagles, African Darter and Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant, while Little Grebes, Egyptian Geese and Red-billed Teal enjoy the open water. Hovering Pied or perched Gray-headed kingfishers hunt for their fish breakfast while the banks are patrolled by attractive Black-headed Heron, African Spoonbill, African and Sacred Ibis (worshiped by the Ancient Egyptians as the god Thoth). Maybe we will see our first stunning Saddle-billed Stork or exquisite Gray-crowned Cranes.

While enjoying the big game on the grasslands, we should encounter the Gray-headed Kingfisher first of many exotic bustards, both Black and White-bellied bustards are © Andrew Whittaker possible here. Harsh calls may alert us to noisy Yellow-necked or less common Shelley’s francolin. Africa is extremely rich in shrikes; Long-tailed and Northern Fiscal are fairly common in the park. Other species we should enjoy are Wire-tailed Swallows, Northern Pied Babbler, Rufous- naped Lark, Long-billed Pipit, Capped Wheatear, Brimstone Canary, the striking Yellow-throated Longclaws and Holub’s Golden Weaver. We also have our first introduction to the challenging cisticolas (warblers), several with cool names (such as wing-snapping, singing, winding, croaking, siffling, and stout), and the pretty African Yellow Warbler. Seed eaters abound, from Red-collared, Jackson’s and White-winged widowbird to Pin-tailed Whydah, and Red-billed and Cardinal quelea, while White-browed Coucal (an odd cuckoo) sit up on perches. Blue skies overhead are home to soaring swifts, White-backed Vultures, Tawny Eagles, Black-chested Snake- Eagle and one of the world’s top true buzzards, the striking red-tailed Augur. Black-winged Kites grace the grasslands, hovering in search of prey.

We will enjoy a picnic lunch from a panoramic hilltop viewpoint, looking down over forest slopes to the large open plains below, dotted with browsing game. We’ll keep a sharp eye open for any raptors gliding by or for a covey of Crested Francolin feeding under the shrubs. While exploring these forested hills and lush strips of woodland, we will quickly encounter noisy flocks of bickering Helmeted Guineafowl and marvel over their distinct spotted plumage and odd bony casqued heads. Two more exciting new endemic African families await us that are fairly common here, groups of the odd social Speckled Mousebirds and the larger and more attractive White-bellied Go-away-bird. These go-away-birds are in fact relatives of the more well-known and gorgeously colorful turacos. They often allow a close approach and obligingly perch in the open on top of bushes, offering excellent views and photographic opportunities. With such an odd name like go-away-bird, an explanation is required. The name comes from their raucous “go away” call which we will enjoy hearing Delightful Little Bee-eater © Andrew Whittaker today. Delightful and often confiding Little or Cinnamon-chested Bee-eaters sally out from exposed perches seeking insects as Cape Robin-Chats (small colorful thrushes) and Red-backed Scrub-Robins hop out onto the grass verges below. Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 7 Further splashes of color could be provided by near endemic Fischer’s Lovebird, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Pale White-eye, and metallic sunbirds such as Variable, Scarlet-chested and Bronze. Additionally, several gaudily colored waxbills like Red-cheeked Cordonbleu or African Firefinch are possible. All in all, today will have provided us with a perfect introduction and wet our appetites for more of Kenya’s magnificent avifauna and big game.

NIGHT: Emara Hotel Ole Sereni, Nairobi

August 9, Day 4: Drive to the Famous Masai Mara National Reserve. Following a full early morning breakfast, we will check out and drive southwest, our destination Kenya’s top and largest game reserve, the sublime Masai Mara, world famous for truly elegant Masai warriors and fabled savannas home to immense herds of big game (especially at this time of year) due to the awe-inspiring migration arriving from neighboring Tanzania. The Mara reserve is a vast breath-taking wilderness, contiguous with the neighboring Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater Parks in Tanzania, covering a staggering total of 30,000 sq. km (18,650 sq. miles) and packed chock-full of extraordinary wildlife and a superb selection of mammals. We will venture into the immense and scenically stunning landscapes of the Mara and its animal filled plains, rolling hills and flat-topped Acacias. Driving slowly with the roof up and open, we’ll enjoy the herds of big game and stop for any birding opportunities. Amongst throngs of wildlife, we will encounter our first African Elephants. Matriarchal herds are a common site, roaming and feeding in the rolling savannas and rich veins of open woodlands. We plan to reach our delightful safari lodge for a late lunch; the cuisine and services are top quality.

Male African Elephant © Andrew Whittaker

After lunch we’ll settle into our rooms, perfectly positioned in the heart of the magical Mara. Wild Africa is literally at our doorsteps—our African dream home for the entire week. Our special early group breakfasts will allow us to begin our daily safari excursions before most other groups and offer us excellent chances to be one of the first to arrive at any of the park’s special wildlife hotspots.

Expect to be visited on your balcony by a colorful, friendly and charming resident, the White-browed Robin-Chat. Occasionally one can be observed even hopping into the dining room area! Our lodge is truly a delightful base, with extensive forested grounds offering exceptional (if not the best birding) of any lodge in the Mara. It features a well-made wooden boardwalk raised some two to four meters off the ground, which winds for about a kilometer through a rich vein of forest following a secluded stream to an extensive pool system and blind. The large covered blind even offers seating and glass windows overlooking the pools, home to a hundred or so resident Hippos.

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 8 Here one can enjoy observing an assortment of neat water birds such as Water Thick-Knee, Yellow-billed and African Open-billed storks, Black Crake and various kingfishers. Even cute looking Bush Hyrax are often found sunning themselves in nearby trees. The woodlands provide many exciting birds too, such as White-headed and Spot-flanked barbets, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, White-headed Saw-wing, Honeyguides, Chi-spot Batis, African Paradise Flycatcher, unique looking Bare-faced Go-away-birds, and colorful African Green-Pigeons. Mystical and magical sounding Gray- capped Warblers’ songs explode from the undergrowth while you’re serenaded from above by the delightful whooping of Emerald- spotted Wood-Doves or chattering songs of colorful Mosque Swallows, perched on dead snags.

Our rooms overlook a delightful grassy area shaded by large trees Charming White-browed Robin-Chat such as acacias which abound with birds. Here we can enjoy the © Andrew Whittaker likes of the rather localized Gray Kestrel and comical African Gray Hornbills while the lawns and bushes hold Slate-colored Boubou (a shrike), brilliant glossy starlings, energetic wagtails, swooping saw-wings, exotic waxbills (both Cordonbleu) and wonderful African Hoopoes. Rock gardens are the home of one of the most beautiful lizards, the spectacular Orange-headed Agami (males are turquoise blue with a bright orange head). Flowering trees and shrubs act as a magnet for shimmering sunbirds, intricate woodpeckers, and an assortment of weavers. Even groups of energetic Banded Mongoose occasionally venture through the garden and we will be fascinated while observing their different foraging antics. During our scouting trip, we even located a stunning male Harlequin Quail! Here we may even be lucky enough to encounter the unobtrusive and scarce Rufous-necked Wryneck (a cool and curious cryptically patterned woodpecker), as they love to forage by hopping about on short grass for ants (their main diet) and the grounds here certainly look ideal for them.

Mid-afternoon we will have either our first of many exciting relaxed safari excursions into the Mara or an enjoyable birding walk around the rich hotel grounds. Exploring the wonderful boardwalk and the riparian stretch of forest and lakes will give us a fine mix of species before finishing off in the lodges’ shaded lawns and acacia groves.

Evening temperatures here are delightful due to the park’s location on the East African Rift Escarpment, with elevations between 4,875 to 7,052 feet (1,486 and 2,150 meters). At dusk one can relax and enjoy cool beers or cocktails on the lodge’s veranda, as nighttime unfolds around us deep in the African bush. Breathing in the cool, fresh night air is like taking a magical tonic. Myriads of stars begin to twinkle as a captivating symphony of sounds serenade us into a perfect African night. The striking nightly chorus here includes the bizarre (and totally unexpected) loud booming Hippos as they snort, grumble and wheeze while anxiously leaving the safety of their pool for night time grazing. Hippos often travel between five to six miles a night in the grasslands, going deep into the bush. These huge animals can weigh up to an incredible four and a half tons and graze up to 80 pounds or 35 kilos of grass a night! An interesting but remarkable poorly-known Hippo fact that’s recently been discovered is that Hippos (just like elephants) use subsonic vocalizations, inaudible to us, to communicate at night over great distances.

NIGHT: Keekorok Lodge, Masai Mara National Reserve

August 10-15, Days 5-10: Safari Drives in the Masai Mara National Reserve. The Mara was originally designated as a wildlife sanctuary in 1961 during the colonial period in Kenya. Since then, the reserve’s size has expanded significantly to cover more of the area that the vast numbers of wild animals were inhabiting and using as wildlife corridors during the great migration from neighboring Tanzania and the Serengeti Reserve into the Mara. Currently the reserve is a massive expanse of 1,510 km2 or almost 600 square miles of magical wilderness. The appeal of the Mara and adjacent private/community conservancies isn’t difficult to explain. Its mosaic of rolling Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 9 hills, open grassland and acacia woodland supports a quite incredible profusion and variety of wildlife. Large predators such as Lion, Leopard, Cheetah and Spotted Hyena are easily seen at close quarters all year round, and the reserve truly blossoms between August and October, when the legendary wildebeest migration occurs.

We have six magnificent days here to enjoy this vast, iconic African paradise. Amazing daytime safaris will combine African big mammals & birding alike. We have specifically planned to spend more time in the Mara (than most tours) to allow enough time for us to fully enjoy the awesome wildlife of this premier game reserve.

The Mara is home to a breathtaking array of life. The vast grassland plains are scattered with herds of zebra, Giraffe, Grants and Thompson’s gazelle, and Topi while the Mara and Talek rivers are brimming with hippos and crocodiles. The Acacia forests are abundant with birdlife and monkeys. Ungulates are especially well represented. There’s no better place for close-up views of Eland, the world’s largest antelope, which seems to be less skittish here than in most of its range. Another bonus is that more time here offers us a much better chance of encounters with several of the more difficult, lower density and even rarer mammal species. With luck, these could include one of the fantastic smaller cats like Serval or Caracal, interesting termite-loving Bat-eared Fox (seen on our scouting trip), a much-wanted pack of Wild Dogs, or an encounter with the rare endangered Black Rhino. We will quickly learn exactly why the Mara is most probably the world’s top safari big game viewing eco-system. Our special “off road driving permits” (from the park department) enable us to get to many of the more remote corners of the park (not visited by the majority) and allow us to freely leave any dirt roads and cut across the grasslands for closer approach to the herds of big game, while always respectfully keeping our distance, so as not to disturb them. This will result in us having much better wildlife viewing and improved photographic opportunities; examples might be being able to follow hunting cats, searching quiet forested strips for roosting Leopards (which sleep in trees), getting next to a kill, approaching Martial Eagle © Andrew Whittaker a magnificent perched Martial Eagle (fairly common here), or a localized Denham’s Bustard walking through the grass.

The Mara is truly an exceptional birding hotspot full of mouth-watering species. During our safaris you can rest assured birding will certainly not be forgotten. These vast plains are home to family groups of the huge atypical ground-dwelling Southern Ground Hornbills with startling red throat wattles and striking white primaries. Family groups are fascinating to watch as they forage, socially preen or sunbathe. While driving through these rich grasslands, we will always be on the lookout for the handsome Marsh Owl. The riparian forest along the Mara and Talek rivers is an important habitat for niche species such as the much sought after and striking Ross’s and Schalow’s turacos, the turquoise rumped Meyer’s Parrot, iridescent colors of Klaas’s or African Emerald cuckoo, Narina Trogon, African Pygmy Kingfisher or White-throated Bee-eater all bring a terrific palate of outstanding colors! More open acacia woodland holds a delightful kaleidoscope of colors in the form of one of Africa’s top birds, the Lilac-breasted Roller.

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 10 Striking Magpie Shrike and wild-looking White- crested Helmetshrike will be another of our targets. Skulkers could include the incredibly stunning Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike or massive billed Gray- headed Bushshrike. Brush holds the unusual, near endemic Red-throated Tit or subtle patterned yellow- eyed Arrow-marked Babbler. Drier grassy hillsides are home to Coqui Francolin and Black-bellied Bustard, and we should be able to locate the stunning male Rosy-breasted Longclaw. More open areas with sparse grassy patches and rocks can be ideal locations to search for the lovely Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, delicate but distinctly marked Two-banded Courser, or the Temminck’s Courser with its rufous-capped and all black underwings.

We have carefully planned our Mara visit to be here at the prime time to hopefully behold one of the most Lilac-breasted Roller © Andrew Whittaker sought-after experiences for any wildlife and nature enthusiast—the “Great Migration”—the ever-moving circular migration of over a million and a half animals across the Mara-Serengeti ecosystem. Although never precisely predictable, our visit provides a great chance to be able to witness this world-class spectacle. The immense columns of countless wildebeest are joined by a host of companion zebra and antelopes that pour across the border into the Mara, making a spectacular entrance, often in a surging column of life that stretches from horizon to horizon. At the great Mara River, they mass together on the banks before finally plunging forward through the raging waters, creating a frenzy as they fight against swift currents and waiting crocodiles. This annual journey follows an age-old route in search of grazing and water, taking them across the plains of the Masai Mara south into Tanzania, through the Serengeti to the edge of the Ngorongoro Crater, before circling up and around in a clockwise direction. Along the way, high drama is always present as thousands of animals are taken by predators, and thousands more are born in Tanzania, replenishing the numbers and sustaining this fascinating circle of life.

A major goal of ours in the Mara will be to locate and enjoy spending quality time with East Africa’s apex predators, the fascinating big cats. This region is certainly unrivaled for big cat viewing, being outstanding for seeing all three of the much-wanted big cat species. Some are more difficult to encounter and will require more time to locate. However, we certainly have extremely high chances of enjoying Lions, Cheetahs and Leopards.

The famous Mara Cheetah group, the five brothers © Andrew Whittaker Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 11 At this time of the year these magnificent predators are found at a higher density and can be easier to see during the great migration than at other times of the year. Kenya’s Lions were made world-famous by the stories of the ferocious “Tsavo Man-Eaters,” with books and six movies to date made about them. This involved a pair of male man-eaters from the Tsavo region, which were responsible for terrorizing the construction workers on the Kenya- Uganda Railway between March and December 1898. Exact figures are unconfirmed but recent studies suggest a death toll of around 35. However, news rumors swirled around the world at the time, stating a staggering 135 worker fatalities! Finally, the males were shot dead December 9, 1898 by John Patterson, a British lieutenant colonel who later wrote the famous book in 1908, The Man-eaters of Tsavo and other East African Adventures.

Imagine observing throngs of wildebeests gather on ledges, dust rising above the river—you can literally sense their urgency and hesitation. The energy in the air is palpable. As we watch in silence, the wildebeests seem to be gathering their courage, eyes wide, breath labored—each animal vying for a position that gives the safest and surest path to the water and the opposite bank of the Mara. Time passes as the wildebeests nervously watch the water for massive Nile Crocodiles. Finally, with no apparent trigger, a few animals rush toward the water, with thousands following close behind along with zebras, Elands and gazelles. Our excitement quickly turns to fear. You know that time is of the essence. Crocodiles are moving toward the slower and smaller wildebeests. Snapping jaws are not the only threat, though, as the current of the river acts with greater unrelenting ferocity, often ending more life than the predators. Your heart breaks for the younger calves that are simply too tired and inexperienced to pass this gauntlet. In the chaos, nonetheless, you watch as one-by-one, the strongest and most determined reach the other side, and you feel a great sense of relief and joy!

The Mara reserve is named in in honor of the Masai people, who are well-known for their fierce warriors and bright red robes. The reserve’s popular name comes from the Masai, who call this expanse of land “Mara,” or “spotted” in their native language of Maa, because of the way the acacia trees and wildlife dotted the plains. They are one of the few tribes who have retained much of their traditions, rituals and lifestyles as an integral part of their everyday lives. Living alongside wildlife in harmony is an important part of their beliefs. Lions and Wildebeest play as important a role in their cultural beliefs as do their own herds of cattle. This unique co-existence of man and wildlife makes this Masai land one of the world’s most unique wilderness regions. Income from ecotourism directly benefits the Masai tribes as well as ensuring the continued conservation of this world-famous reserve and its staggering profusion of wildlife.

Depending on availability, we may well plan to offer as an optional extra an exciting dawn Mara Balloon trip (price not included in the tour). Imagine seeing the Mara through the eye of an Eagle with all its amazing wildlife spread out below for all to see. This would first involve a pre-dawn field breakfast followed by an hour balloon flight before returning to the lodge. After a quick break at the lodge, we would continue on our daily safari schedule.

Other less common antelope in the park include Klipspringer in rocky areas, Oribi, Bushbuck and Common Reedbuck. We can always dream about an exciting encounter with such poorly-known greats as crepuscular Aardwolf (a delicate looking striped long-haired hyena/fox) that feeds mostly on termites, or a Ratel, better known to us all as a Honey Badger, famous for their reputation for great ferocity. This certainly is well founded, as they are even feared here by Lions. Furthermore, the badger can also release a fowl-smelling secretion (not unlike a skunk) when under extreme duress. So, keep well away if you find one.

The Mara holds an unusually large population of lion prides, which often number 15 or more adults with many magnificent photogenic maned alfa males. We are plenty safe, by the way, in our safari vehicles. African Buffaloes are normally the Lions favored prey here; however, with the abundance of Wildebeest and Common Zebra, it often changes during this time of plenty. We also stand a good chance of observing a Lion pride at a kill, which is an outstanding wildlife experience.

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 12

Lioness and cub by kill © Andrew Whittaker Thankfully this pristine ecosystem still retains an extremely high density of vultures (sadly not true in many other areas of the world, such as India). This makes locating kills a lot easier. The incredible speed at which these scavengers clean up after a big cat or hyena kill is hard to conceive or even believe. Having witnessed this incredible spectacle during our scouting trip, it unraveled as follows. After the lions had gorged themselves enough, they moved away from the carcass and all went to asleep. Out of nowhere, we observed an aggressive Spotted Hyena pack arriving, running in at great speed from a very long distance away, like the famous Kenyan marathon runners, at a relentless pace. Hyena can smell blood from greater than four kilometers away. On arrival, they chased off some nervous patrolling jackals and went straight into eat, squabbling amongst themselves (they have a complex hierarchy), crushing bones and pulling off flesh. Next thermals of vultures appeared along with the odd few storks and eagles and drifted towards us, with the vultures gliding in and landing. Initially the vultures were in first to the carcass, the boss being the massive Lappet-faced Vultures, followed by the commonest large species, African

Immense Lappet-faced Vulture is the boss at Lion kill. © Andrew Whittaker

White-backed Vulture, along with fewer striking Ruppell’s Griffons. Standing by on the sidelines were the smaller Hooded Vultures and giant fearless Marabou Storks—certainly not the prettiest of the family with its grotesque almost-naked head, scabby black spots and pink pouch; however, its 10-foot wingspan makes it one of the world’s largest flying birds. Everyone finally gets a chance and a writhing mass of vultures prevails. Jackals also get their chance when the hyenas are full. Within in an hour, astonishingly nothing except bones and hide was left of the Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 13 zebra. With much luck, we may even see a lion pride hunting and making a kill. However, it’s important to bear in mind that a hunting pride has only a 25-30% success rate.

While meandering through the plains and rocky outcrops between our mammal sightings, we will be keeping an eye open for many of our avian targets. An amazing park list of close to 50 species means we have lots to choose from: African Harrier-Hawk, Black-chested Snake-Eagle, massive but rare African Crowned Eagle, Wahlberg’s and Tawny eagle, Lizard Buzzard, Black Goshawk, or Dark-chanting Goshawk. Wonderful charismatic Bateleur drift effortlessly against the blue skies (very reminiscent of a modern human kite) on their stiff but distinctly broad wing, with stocky head and almost no tail.

Other interesting species may include White-headed or Palm-nut vulture, Marsh Owl, Black-winged Lapwing, Yellow Bishop, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, and stunning Cinnamon-breasted & Golden-breasted buntings which can often be encountered along the roadsides. Outrageous exotic glossy starlings abound and include Violet-backed and Great Blue-eared plus a host of interesting and colorful weavers and the unique African Quail-finch. Lush reed- fringed pools or quiet marshes are home to the illusive and Exquisite Saddle-billed Stork © Andrew Whittaker cryptically stunning African Painted Snipe, certainly one of the world’s top shorebirds. This is also a favored habitat for the unusual looking African Wattled Lapwings, exquisite Saddle-billed Stork (whose bill color has to be seen to be believed), and Rufous-bellied Heron (only breeding site in Kenya). With luck, we could spot a secretive Dwarf Bittern perched in the reeds.

During the heat of the day, we have daily afternoon breaks to either rest up in your rooms or enjoy a cool refreshing dip in the delightful hotel swimming pool. Or if you simply can’t get enough, enjoy exploring and birding the incredibly rich hotel grounds or it’s a wonderful location to opt out if you prefer to relax on the veranda and let the birds come to you!

NIGHTS: Keekorok Lodge, Masai Mara Reserve

August 16, Day 11: Masai Mara to Lake Baringo. Early this morning we will bird our way out of this magnificent park, taking with us many incredible wildlife memories. Our heading is almost due north to the greener pastures of the famous Rift Valley and Lake Baringo, where a whole new exciting set of birds awaits us. Armed with a picnic lunch and with some birding stops enroute, we will plan to arrive in the late afternoon. Excellent birding is found on the hotel grounds, which are often alive with shining sunbirds such as the Beautiful, Eastern Violet-backed and scarlet-chested Hunter’s visiting the flower garden and small flowering shrubs.

Exotic calls of Bare-faced Go-away-birds fill the air and African Black-headed Oriole win the prize for the most beautiful songster. With no dangerous big game here, we can enjoy a delightful birding walk through the nearby drier acacia scrub; as temperatures drop it can become alive with birds.

We’ll focus on some local targets, initially for roosting owls including one of Africa’s greatest, the super cool White-faced Scops, and the Immature Male Beautiful Sunbird huge Spotted Eagle-Owl (often split as Grayish Eagle-Owl). Luckily © Andrew Whittaker Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 14 our local guide knows all their favorite roosting sites. Next up we will target the difficult Heuglin’s (Three-banded) Courser (crepuscular & only active at night). By day, they can only be seen if they are found roosting. Their wonderful camouflage makes this very difficult but with luck, we should see a pair of these dainty well-marked beauties on the ground beneath shaded bushes at a stakeout.

We will carefully walk between the thorny bushes, cactus and in open sandy or rocky areas to search for the highly camouflaged roosting Square-tailed Nightjar or Spotted Thick-knees. With luck we may witness the totally bizarre tiny Elephant Shrews foraging and zooming into cover. Elephant shrews are not, in fact, shrews. Recent evidence suggests that they are more closely related to a group of African mammals that includes elephants, Sea Cows, and Aardvarks! Some other East African Rift Valley specialists may include Gabar Goshawk, Heuglin's (Three-banded) Courser Red-chested Cuckoo, family groups of Rufous-crowned (Purple) © Andrew Whittaker Roller, Hemprich’s Hornbill, Nubian Woodpecker, Green Woodhoopoe, Pygmy Batis, oddly named Brubru (a delicate shrike), and the brightly colored Green-winged Pytilia.

NIGHT: Sandai Resort, Lake Baringo

August 17, Day 12: Birding Lake Baringo. At dawn we will cross the road and descend to the nearby lake for a relaxed morning’s boat trip exploring Lake Baringo’s extremely rich bird and aquatic life. The lake at this time of year is an extremely important stop-over for many inter- tropical migrants so hopefully we can find some interesting surprises. Working our way along the lake edge and through reed-clogged channels offers ideal birding & photographing opportunities for many species in the early morning light. Flashy Malachite and Pied kingfishers are numerous and with luck, we also stand a chance for the uncommon Giant Kingfisher. The huge Goliath Heron (world’s largest heron) is a target, plus we will enjoy the smaller, black Squacco and Striated herons. Hamerkops can be numerous and we should hopefully see their immense stick nests. While scouting, we found the area to be a bee-eater paradise with three species, including several stunning Northern Carmine Bee-eaters. Timed perfectly for inter-tropical migrants, we may be lucky to encounter Madagascar Bee-eater visiting from the south. The lake is also a good area for raptors such as Shikra, Dark Chanting Goshawk, and the rare Lanner Falcon. We may delight in watching the odd hunting antics of African Harrier Hawks as they use their long Northern Carmine Bee-eater flexible legs to root out prey from tree cavities or birds’ nests. The © Andrew Whittaker resident iconic African Fish-Eagles are certainly always a delight.

Water birds abound along the reed-fringed lake, such as Reed Cormorant, African Darter, and dainty African Jacana, who skip over floating mats of reeds, exposing their incredibly long toes. We’ll keep an eye out for the delicate Kittlitz’s Plover or a camouflaged African Painted Snipe as aerial flocks of Wire-tailed Swallows and various martins swoop after prey.

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 15 Other species could include Spur-winged Goose, exotic Diederik Cuckoos with their loud characteristic song, tiny Northern Crombec, Lesser Swamp Warbler, Northern Brownbul, Magpie Starling, Red-billed Firefinch, our first stunning Cut-throats, African Silverbill, fascinating Village or Lesser Masked- weaver colonies, or the large White- headed Buffalo-Weavers. We’ll also search for the uncommon White-backed Night-Heron roosting. Local fishermen admire the charismatic fish-eagles and we will purchase some fresh fish to feed them. With cameras ready, we can enjoy incredible views as they fly in off their perches and swoop down right in front of our boats to pluck the fish off the water.

As temperatures drop after our afternoon siesta, we will drive to the nearby scenic Baringo Cliffs to explore this lovely area An iconic African Fish-Eagle © Andrew Whittaker on foot. Walking through thick acacia groves at the base of the impressive rocky slopes is reminiscent of birding a rich Israeli wadi for migrants. The cliffs are home to an incredibly high concentration of Rock Hyrax, the preferred prey of our main target, the impressive rare black eagles with a striking white back and white wing flashes—the majestic Verreaux’s Eagles. The loud alarm calls of the hyrax echoing off the rocks is often the first sign of this magnificent raptors’ presence as they hunt along the rim. This area is also alive with song birds; a top target is the wonderful Red-and-Yellow Barbet with its distinctive loud, rolling duets and a display that reminds your tour leader of some similar open, dry-country South American puffbirds.

Overhead Fan-tailed Raven soar, and if we’re lucky and can find an infestation of caterpillar in the acacias, it could attract a variety of cuckoos such as long-tailed Pied or Great-spotted cuckoo. Fruiting trees are loved by both Jackson’s and Northern Red-billed hornbill (a new undescribed distinct yellow-eyed form) and can be fairly common. Tape-playback should pull in A gorgeous Red-and-Yellow Barbet © Andrew Whittaker the tiny diurnal Pearl-spotted Owlet which can be mobbed by a host of songbirds such as Gray Wren-Warbler, Golden-backed Weaver, Parrot-billed Sparrow, Lesser Honeyguide, or an incredible white morph African Paradise-Flycatcher.

August 18, Day 13: Lake Baringo to Samburu National Park. Early morning finds us returning to the nearby cliffs to enjoy this great birding spot for an additional hour or two. Several new species await us such as the Brown-tailed Chat, a rock-loving localized species. Others could be Dark Chanting-Goshawk, delicate long-tailed Namaqua Doves, family parties of Blue-naped Mousebird, both Black-throated and D’Arnaud’s barbets, and parties of White-rumped Shrike—all are fairly common. This is a prime location for flocks of odd-looking Bristle- crowned Starlings, Rufous Chatterer (a type of babbler), Brown-backed Scrub-Robin, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Red-fronted Prinia, Somali Tit, Crimson-rumped Waxbill, Parrot-billed Sparrow, or even possibly the incredibly rare Gambaga Flycatcher.

Following the best hours of birding and armed with picnic lunches, we next begin our drive, first retracing our steps south before heading east towards our next exciting location, the impressive Samburu National Reserve. Enroute, we plan to explore an especially dry, sandy area close to the equator line for several cool specialties. These should include the mostly crepuscular and big eyed Black-headed Lapwing, Fischer’s Lovebirds, superb Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 16 White-fronted Bee-eater, Nubian Woodpecker and the lovely-named Silverbird, a colorful, stunning old-world flycatcher.

We plan on arriving at the Samburu Reserve around midafternoon, when we will enter into safari mode and enjoy an exciting variety of new birds and big game as we proceed slowly on to our lovely lodge. Hopefully we will encounter our first conspicuous and striking Reticulated Giraffa or the immense gray-necked Somali Ostrich, and passerines such as dark Northern Anteater-Chat (flashy in flight) or a flock of showy Golden-breasted Starlings, certainly one of Africa’s top birds.

Our luxury tented camp is nestled on the spectacular forested banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River with a backdrop drop of Ol Olokwe Mountain, and is a magnet to wildlife, especially the abundant herds of elephants, Nile Crocodiles, and other water birds. Our rooms are nicely spread out Flashy White-fronted Bee-eater along the shady banks of the river and set amidst a distinct stand of © Andrew Whittaker Doum Palms. Each tent features in-suite, private bathrooms with hot showers and flush toilets, and a delightful decked terrace with views of the river and the birdy gardens. The entire camp is solar-powered, with back-up generators providing 24-hour electricity.

Somali Ostrich © Andrew Whittaker

A cozy lounge bar by the pool along with sun lounges is a great way to chill out during the heat of the day or during the pleasantly cool evenings. Sometimes even Speckled Pigeons roost on the roof beams. An electric fence allows us to happily enjoy birding the forested grounds and flower gardens while being protected by the shade of the magnificent Doum Palm grove. This lodge can be truly awesome for close encounters with elephants. During our scouting, we were was amazed to see an enormous mature bull elephant foraging along the beach only a few meters back on the other side of the electric fence! Although fully aware of our presence, he was oblivious and completely happy, continuing to come closer while feeding and rubbed his back on shade trees only meters away. Our palm grove also provides a wonderful spot for a delightful shaded dip in the refreshing pool.

An electric flash of turquoise zipping through the garden brings attention to a marvelous Woodland Kingfisher as it alights on a shaded branch to still hunt, while a harsh screeching alerts you to a pair of perched Orange-bellied Parrots resting in the acacias to escape the heat of the day. There is always something to watch and admire here. Pairs of Northern Red-billed Hornbill are commonly seen hopping along picking up insects. They are famously Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 17 known for their unique behavior of cementing the female into the nesting cavity, where she is fed by her mate while incubating and rearing the young.

Tiny multicolored African Pygmy Kingfisher perch above a pool as a delicately marked Emerald-spotted Wood-Doves takes its bath. We all will adore the Spotted Mourning-thrushes who are so inquisitive that they often approach close to check us out. The camp’s secluded pool often hosts a fascinating group of Vervet Monkeys (who are so much fun to watch) or on occasions a troop of mischievous Olive Baboons can quickly breeze through. At night the local African Scops-Owl calls above our rooms while the deep rumbling vocalizations of a family of elephants grazing along the river can be heard, along with a distant chirring of a Donaldson-Smith’s Nightjar. Northern Red-billed Hornbills © Andrew Whittaker

NIGHT: Ashnil Samburu Camp, Samburu National Reserve

August 19-21, Days 14-16: Safari Drives in Samburu & Buffalo Springs National Reserves. These two pristine reserves combine to form an extensive wildlife haven of over a hundred square miles of rugged and arid terrain, ranging in altitude from 800-1,230m (2,650-4,000 ft.) above sea level and bisected by a ten-mile stretch of intermittently flowing water, the Uaso Nyiro River. Dense vegetation fringes the river and shelters a terrific number of both birds and mammals. We will enjoy three magical days exploring these two game preserves. The majestic Samburu & Buffalo Springs reserves are characterized by rich red soils and plentiful game. The reserves are famous for their spectacular images of herds of large red elephants, due to the rich color of the red mud along the river which they bath in frequently, covering themselves in the mud to help keep cool and protect against parasites. Samburu holds a landscape of scrubby, open bush lands and lush savanna, with rich fringed riverine forests of acacias and large Doum Palms extending along the banks of the Ewaso Ngiro River which acts as the reserves divide. The river is the heart of the park, not only making it beautiful and very photogenic (palms and blue skies contrasting against the bright and dry, red iron rich soils), but also attracting a great diversity of wildlife all year round.

During our safaris several exciting new mammals await us. On the extensive plains herds of the endangered but truly elegant Galla (Beisa) Oryx can be found along with distinctive, endangered Grevy’s Zebra and Ellipsen (Defassa) Waterbuck. Among the acacia groves and lightly wooded areas, we can find the odd-looking long- necked Gerenuk, a tree-foliage browser. They are fascinating to observe as they forage, habitually rising on their back legs while they hold their body almost vertical with front legs precariously balanced in an acacia bush. The Gerenuk feed off lusher leaves higher than two meters that most other antelope can’t reach, especially in thorny tangles. This secluded habitat is also favored by the tiny antelopes such as the oddly-named Kirk’s Dikdick. Rather shy, they often retreat into the bushes on our approach, especially since they are hunted by almost all predators. The name “Dikdick” comes from the females’ alarm whistle through their long, tubular snouts when they feel threatened. This is a repetitive sounding “dik.” We will also watch out for other much sought-after smaller species too. The big three cats here are well represented with Lion and Cheetah and the reserves are excellent for finding the beautifully marked Leopard. Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 18

Female Leopard © Andrew Whittaker

With a park list of over 400 species, avian highlights abound. One of the reserves’ top avian species is its gregarious groups (25-30) of the vividly colored and highly sought-after Vulturine Guineafowl, which are fairly common here. Wonderfully colored and exquisitely patterned, sadly these birds are named after their bald heads. We will delight in observing and trying to understand their interesting and unusual social behaviors. Fascinating recent studies have proved the existence of a multilevel society in this small-brained bird. This behavior was previously only known to exist among large-brained mammals including humans, other primates, elephants, giraffes and dolphins.

Elegant Vulturine Guineafowl are fairly common. © Andrew Whittaker The parks excellent grasslands are a strong hold of one of the largest of all flying birds, the much sought- after Kori Bustard. Males weigh up to 42 pounds (19 kilos) and stand at an impressive five feet (1.5 m) tall. They have only three front toes, which are short, broad and well adapted for running. Highly omnivorous, insects form a

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 19 large portion of their diet but they also eat a variety of small mammals, lizards, snakes, seeds and berries. They have even been observed eating carrion.

While driving through these major grasslands, we may encounter the smallest stork, the Abdim’s Stork, a nomadic and often gregarious species following burns, insect emergences or rains. Aerial masters such as the pretty Lesser-striped Swallows swoop after insects and with luck, we could flush a colorful Harlequin Quail or even the weird and little-known Quail-plover, flying like a quail (but related to shorebirds) with a very bold black and white wing pattern. Damper areas close to the rivers are good for elegant Gray-Crowned Cranes and a favorite site for herds of grazing Reticulated Giraffe or Eland, which offer stunning photographic opportunities with a background of enigmatic palms, favored by the rather localized Red-necked Falcon. As the sun begins to set, we can enjoy an amicable evening elephant show at an historic river Displaying male Kori Bustard © Andrew Whittaker crossing point near our lodge, nicely finishing off another exciting day on the magical African plains.

Stunning Reticulated Giraffe © Andrew Whittaker

Drier, bushier habitats mixed with grass are home to the likes of bright chestnut Broad-billed Roller or odd-looking Buff-crested Bustard with its unusual crested head. Here its loud harsh calls often give away its presence. We will concentrate on finding the incredible Golden Pipit. When seen in flight, it looks like a huge glowing yellow birdwing butterfly. The reserve is truly a bustard lover’s paradise, holding both Black-bellied and White-bellied bustards in addition to the Kori. In the drier, more open country, we will pay particular attention for larks like Pinkish and Foxy and nicely patterned (longspur look alike) Chestnut-headed or erratic wandering Chestnut- backed sparrow-larks. This habitat is shared with wonderful Red-headed Weaver and Straw-tailed Whydah.

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 20 Hopefully we should come across a comical group of Desert Warthogs as they trot through the dry bush, tails held high and erect. In particular we will be hoping to find the well-camouflaged and scarce Lichtenstein’s or commoner Chestnut-bellied sandgrouse; both are especially fond of water holes in this arid landscape. Black-faced Sandgrouse however, are common here and unlike most of the family, allow a close approach, offering great photographic opportunities.

Short-tailed and local Taita Fiscals hunt prey off taller bushes while a loud far-carrying distinctive song could lead us to locate a pair of striking and Black-faced Sandgrouse © Andrew Whittaker unique Rosy-patched Bushshrike, with a marvelous color combination of soft, sandy brown body sharply contrasting with a brilliant pink-striped breast plus a bright pink rump! Low density and often shy, the solitary Somali Bee-eater perch unobtrusively in the shade (so they can be hard to locate), whereas Striped Kingfisher are usually a little easier to spot. Here bizarre and often comical hornbills are well represented with Eastern Yellow- billed and Von der Decken’s, and we’ll scan the deep blue skies for soaring raptors such as the uncommon White- headed or Egyptian vultures.

Stunning thrush-size Pygmy Falcons are found in the extensive semi-bush country. Widely spaced pairs survey for prey on tree tops. Interestingly, these delicate falcons are so small that they can fit inside White-headed Buffalo-Weaver nests to breed.

Scarcer species here could include Taita Falcon, a species of global conservation concern. Large raptors are also diverse and conspicuous here like Long-crested, Wahlberg’s and Brown snake-eagle and African Hawk-Eagle. We’ll also keep a keen eye out for a flock of graceful intra-African migrant Scissor-tailed Kites. Other species should include Gray-headed Kingfisher, Fork-tailed Drongo (a local specialty), White-headed Mousebird, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Pringle’s Puffback (not with salt), Green-backed Camaroptera, Ashy and Zitting cisticola, Pygmy Falcon male © Andrew Whittaker distinctive White-eyed Slaty- Flycatcher, Wattled Starling, Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark, Black-bellied Sunbird, Golden Palm Weaver, Donaldson-Smith’s Sparrow-Weaver, Black-capped Social Weaver, Somali Sparrow, Fire-fronted Bishop, and Red-collared Widowbird.

Riparian specialties could include the uncommon Palm-nut Vulture or African Bare-eyed Thrush to the more widespread Black-necked and Golden Palm weavers to Northern Puffback. Gem-like sunbirds including Hunter’s, Black- bellied and if we’re fortunate, even the striking Shining. Away from the river semi-desert conditions prevail, and yet birds are still surprisingly abundant.

Also, we’ll watch for large parties of entertaining Dwarf Mongooses energetically foraging and running around on the ground. Interestingly, they often form a mutualistic relationship with a pair of Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbills! The hornbills seek out the mongooses in order for the two species to forage together; Flashy male Red-collared the hornbills benefit by catching the flushed flying insects and in return so do the Widowbird © Andrew Whittaker Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 21 mongooses as the hornbills act as look-outs for nearby raptors and other predators. Our time here will undoubtedly pass all too quickly.

NIGHTS: Ashnil Samburu Camp, Samburu National Reserve

August 22-23 Days 17-18: Return to Nairobi; Departure for Home. Our last morning birding in the park we will concentrate on enjoying quality time with big game as well as searching out any special birds we still have yet to see.

A male White-bellied Go-away-bird wishes us a fond farewell! © Andrew Whittaker

Following an early lunch at the lodge, we will leave the park to return to Nairobi with maybe an opportunistic stop or two. Enroute we will pass photogenic and spectacular thick-trunked baobab trees before returning to our comfortable Nairobi hotel. Private day rooms will be provided to wash, change, and pack prior to departure. We will allow time to freshen up before our final checklist before sadly having to say our fond farewells. Following tonight we will be transferred by the local ground agents to our various international homebound flights with connections back to the USA for arrival on August 23.

DAY ROOM: Emara Hotel Ole Sereni, Nairobi (August 22) Return flight arrives home August 23

TOUR SIZE: This tour will be limited to 8 participants.

TOUR LEADER: Andrew Whittaker with the assistance of local guides

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 22 Andrew Whittaker, a senior member of the VENT staff, has led VENT tours since 1993 throughout South and Central America, Antarctica, Europe, Israel, and, more recently, Africa and Asia. His birding passion began at the early age of seven (thanks to his parents). Andy is also a true all-around naturalist and loves sharing his intimate bird knowledge and fascination for all aspects of the natural world in a fun and enthusiastic way. Andy was born in England; however, he considers himself Brazilian, having lived more than 30 years in this mega biodiverse country, first working for the Smithsonian Institution, studying Amazonian rainforest birds in Manaus. Andy is a qualified ringer/bander trained by the late Dr. Clive Minton (fondly known as the father of shorebird/wader studies). A lifelong fascination with bird migration has seen Andy working around the globe at several top bird observatories: Eilat, Israel; Long Point, Canada; and in the UK at Sandwich Bay and on Fair Isle, Scotland, as well as researching shorebirds in Borneo in Sabah. Andy is well recognized for his passionate and intimate knowledge of bird vocalizations and taxonomy, which has enabled him to discover several new species (such as the Cryptic Forest-Falcon in 2002) and rediscover others thought to be extinct. He is an excellent communicator and tour organizer and loves nothing better than finding and sharing a rare skulker, or telling one of his many fascinating and fun bird and travel stories. Andy had the honor of working with Sir David Attenborough in Brazil as a consultant for the prestigious BBC Life of Birds series. He is widely considered an authority on Amazonian birds, having authored numerous technical publications on the region’s avifauna. At present, Andy is working with Kevin Zimmer on a comprehensive field guide to the birds of Brazil to be published by Princeton University Press. Andy is an associate researcher at the Museum Goeldi, Belem and an active conservationist. He loves photography (with many of his images being used in books) and is an avid football fan of Birmingham City FC and an orchid lover. Andy lives with his partner in life, Jaqueline, and their dog, Mozart, in Porto Alegre, southern Brazil.

FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: The fee for the tour is $14,995 per person in double occupancy from Nairobi. This includes all meals from breakfast on Day 3 to breakfast on Day 17, accommodations as stated in the itinerary, ground transportation during the tour, gratuities, and guide services provided by the tour leaders. It does not include airfare from your home to Nairobi and return, airport departure taxes, alcoholic beverages, special gratuities, phone calls, laundry, or items of a personal nature. Rates are based upon group tariffs; if the tour does not have sufficient registration, a small-party supplement may have to be charged.

The single supplement for this tour is $2,100. You will be charged a single supplement if you desire single accommodations.

REGISTRATION & DEPOSIT: To register for this tour, please contact the VENT office. The initial deposit for this tour is $1,000 per person. A second deposit of $3,000 is due 210 days prior to departure (January 8, 2022). If you prefer to pay your deposits using a credit card, the deposits must be made with MasterCard or Visa at the time of registration. If you would like to pay your initial deposit by check, money order, or bank transfer, your tour space will be held for 10 days to allow time for the VENT office to receive your deposit and completed registration form. The VENT registration form (available from the VENT office or by download at https://ventbird.com) should be completed, signed, and returned to the VENT office.

PAYMENTS: All tour payments may be made by credit card (MasterCard or Visa), check, money order, or bank transfer (contact the VENT office for bank transfer information). These include initial deposits, second deposits, interim payments, final balances, special arrangements, etc. Full payment of the tour fee is due 150 days (March 9, 2022) prior to the tour departure date.

EXCHANGE RATE SURCHARGES: In the erratic global financial markets of today, it is difficult to predict foreign currency exchange rates over the long term or at the time of operation of a tour or cruise departure. Tour prices are based upon the rate of exchange at the time of itinerary publication. If exchange rates change drastically, it may be necessary to implement a surcharge. If a surcharge is necessary, every effort will be made to minimize Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 23 the amount. In many cases, these additional foreign exchange rate surcharges are passed to VENT by its vendors and suppliers.

CANCELLATION & REFUNDS:

Cancellation by Participant: Refunds, if any, for any cancellation by a participant are made according to the following schedule: If participant cancels 210 days or more before the tour departure date, a cancellation fee of $500 per person will be charged unless the deposit is transferred to a new registration for another VENT tour that will operate within the next 12 months, in which case the cancellation fee will be $100 per person. If cancellation is made between 209 and 151 days before departure date, the deposit is not refundable, but any payments covering the balance of the tour fee will be refunded. If cancellation is made fewer than 150 days before departure date, no refund is available. For participants’ protection, we strongly recommend the purchase of travel insurance that covers trip cancellation/interruption.

If participant cancels: Participant’s refund will be: 210 days or more before departure date Your deposit(s) minus $500* 209 to 151 days before departure date No refund of the deposits, but any payments on the balance will be refunded 150 days or less before departure date No refund available

*Unless the deposit is transferred to a new registration for another VENT tour that will operate within the next 12 months, in which case the cancellation fee will be $100 per person. To qualify, cancellation must occur 180 days or more before departure date; deposit transfers must be made at the time of cancellation; and one transfer per deposit.

Cancellation by VENT: If VENT cancels a tour prior to departure without cause or good reason, VENT will provide the participant a full refund, which will constitute full settlement to the participant.

If VENT cancels or delays a tour or any portion of a tour as a result of any Force Majeure event, VENT will use its reasonable best efforts to refund any payments on the balance of the tour fee to participant; provided that, VENT will have no obligation to provide a participant with a refund and will not be liable or responsible to a participant, nor be deemed to have defaulted under or breached any applicable agreement, for any failure or delay in fulfilling or performing any term of such agreement. A “Force Majeure” event means any act beyond VENT’s control, including, without limitation, the following: (a) acts of God; (b) flood, fire, earthquake, hurricane, epidemic, pandemic or explosion; (c) war, invasion, hostilities (whether war is declared or not), terrorist threats or acts, riot or other civil unrest; (d) government order, law or actions; (e) embargoes or blockades; (f) national or regional emergency; (g) strikes, labor stoppages, labor slowdowns or other industrial disturbances; (h) shortage of adequate power or transportation facilities; and (i) any other similar events or circumstances beyond the control of VENT.

This VENT Cancellation & Refunds policy does not apply to air tickets purchased through VENT or to any special arrangements, such as additional hotel nights, that fall outside of the services described in the tour itinerary.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours is not a participant in the California Travel Consumer Restitution Fund. California law requires certain sellers of travel to have a trust account or bond. This business has a bond issued by Travelers in the amount of $50,000. CST #2014998-50.

FUEL AND FUEL SURCHARGES: In the uncertain, often volatile oil market of late, it is difficult – if not impossible – to predict fuel costs over the long term, and more specifically, at the time of operation of this departure. Our prices are based upon the prevailing fuel rates at the time of itinerary publication. While we will do everything possible to maintain our prices, if the fuel rates increase significantly, it may be necessary to institute a fuel surcharge. Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 24

TRAVEL INSURANCE: To safeguard against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, we strongly recommend the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. VENT has partnered with Redpoint Travel Protection as our preferred travel insurance provider. Through Redpoint, we recommend their Ripcord plan. Designed for all types of travelers, Ripcord is among the most comprehensive travel protection programs available.

Critical benefits of Ripcord include a completely integrated program with a single contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims; medical evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice; comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, and much more. Optional expanded insurance coverage is available and includes items such as security evacuation coverage in case of a natural disaster or other security events, waiver for pre-existing medical conditions exclusion, and a “Cancel for Any Reason” benefit. Ripcord is available to U.S. and non- U.S. residents.*

For a price quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please visit: ripcordtravelprotection.com/ventbird; or click the Ripcord logo on our website (click Help and Trip Insurance); or call +1-415-481-0600. Pricing is based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.

*To be eligible for the pre-existing medical condition exclusion waiver and the optional Cancel for Any Reason (CFAR) upgrade, you must purchase your policy within 14 days of making your tour deposit. The CFAR benefit provides reimbursement for 75% of covered costs, and increases the policy premium by approximately 50%. Policies may be purchased either for the full value of the tour fee at the time of deposit or in segments as individual tour payments are made (deposit, mid-payment, final balance, additional arrangements, etc.). The “pay as you go” approach reduces up-front expense and ensures that the amount paid toward your full policy premium is in proportion to the amount paid toward the full tour fee. If you choose to “pay as you go,” you must cover each deposit or payment within 14 days in order to maintain the CFAR benefit. Please refer to the policy for a full description of coverage.

Coronavirus (COVID-19): The coronavirus pandemic has brought uncertainty for many people currently holding travel insurance policies or who are considering future travel and purchasing such insurance. Redpoint has added a Coronavirus FAQ page to its website that addresses questions and concerns regarding its travel insurance and the impact of COVID-19. We strongly recommend that you visit the page for an overview of topics such as policy coverage and limitations, policy modifications, cancellation, refunds, and more. Among the most important points: 1) Trip cancellation solely for concern or fear of travel associated with COVID-19 is not covered; 2) Should you request cancellation of your policy, a full refund of your premium is available only under a limited set of conditions; and 3) Should you request cancellation, you may be eligible to receive a pro-rated refund of the unused portion of your premium or a travel insurance credit. Travel insurance credit (“Premium Credit”) is for the value of the policy purchased and may be applied to future policies. Premium Credits have no expiration dates. Rules and regulations apply.

Please visit the Coronavirus FAQ page at the following link: https://redpointtravelprotection.com/covid_19_faq/

Additionally, as countries begin opening up for travel, many are instituting an array of COVID-19 entry requirements, including mandates to purchase travel insurance covering medical expenses due to COVID-19 Illness and accommodation in case of quarantine. Ripcord’s comprehensive travel insurance plans are designed to satisfy the various country-specific travel insurance entry requirements. Those who purchase a Ripcord policy will receive a “letter of confirmation” that affirms that the policy satisfies such requirements.

AIR INFORMATION: Victor Emanuel Travel is a full-service travel agency and wholly owned subsidiary of Victor Emanuel Nature Tours (VENT). Victor Emanuel Travel will be happy to make any domestic or international air travel arrangements from your home and return. Please feel free to call the VENT office to Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 25 confirm your air arrangements. Please be sure to check with the VENT office prior to purchasing your air ticket to confirm that the tour is sufficiently subscribed to operate. VENT cannot be responsible for any air ticket penalties.

BAGGAGE: The airlines now strictly enforce baggage regulations. Excess baggage charges, which can be substantial, are the personal responsibility of each participant. Please consult your airline to find out specific weight restrictions. Due to ever-changing circumstances in the government’s attempts to improve airport security we recommend that you check the website of the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) for the most updated information: http://www.tsa.gov/.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND INTERNET ACCESS: Accommodations throughout are very good: clean, comfortable rooms with private bathrooms, and all within lovely locations which offer excellent birding on the grounds. There are delightful swimming pools at all lodges (wonderful to hang out and have a refreshing cool dip); laundry service is available at all lodges; good shops offering gifts, clothing and practical items are found at the Mara, Samburu and Nairobi lodges/hotels; well-stocked bars; and excellent service & internet is available at all lodges; however, it may be slow or not always reliable or functioning well, particularly away from the central reception & dining areas.

TRANSPORTATION: The group will be traveling in excellent specially-built comfortable four-wheel drive Land cruisers (six window seats in each, so enough for everyone) with a driver/guide in each vehicle. Each vehicle has an excellent open top system which is superb for birding & mammal watching, plus keeps off the overhead sun. Sand bags for any photographers are provided and are magnificent at stabilizing for sharp images and taking excellent video. An ice chest is located in each vehicle, offering cold drinks at all times.

CLIMATE: The rainy and dry seasons have become less well-defined and predictable in recent years. However, we are expecting mainly dry, warm to hot weather with daytime temperatures ranging from 77˚ to 89˚F. Lake Baringo daytime temperatures could be a little hotter. Evenings with clear skies are very pleasant but may become chilly when temperatures may be down to the mid-50s. Generally, the temperatures and climate are considered pleasant and comfortable—sometimes hot, but never humid. However, during the hottest times of the day we plan to be relaxing in our lodges. Some early morning safari rides could require a light jacket, especially if it’s a little misty in low lying areas or around pools. Layers can always be shed later as temperatures rise.

CLOTHING: Depending on weather, heat, and your susceptibility to the sun, you could bring a mix of T-shirts and long-sleeved and lightweight blouses or shirts. Similarly, it is OK to wear shorts in most situations around the lodges, but light weight, washable pants (especially those that convert into shorts by unzipping legs) are preferable, because they offer additional protection from sun, thorny plants, and biting insects. A light sweater/sweatshirt for cooler evenings and a light, easily packable rain jacket is advised. Neutral colors (grays, tans, and khakis) are most appropriate for birding. Easily washable, quick-drying clothes are useful. And remember, all lodges have reasonable laundry services so you can pack lightly. Alternatively, to lighten your load, you may consider bringing some clothes you plan to discard. These can be worn on the tour and left behind—and are very well received by local staff that we meet. Remember all our lodges have very nice swimming pools, so bring swimwear if you wish. There are few opportunities for any serious hiking, so lighter walking shoes should be adequate. A sunhat/cap and sunglasses are strongly advised. Casual clothes are adequate throughout and remember please to leave the fancy jewelry at home.

CURRENCY: There are opportunities to exchange small amounts of U.S. dollars for Kenyan shillings at some of the lodges, but you will not need large amounts. Almost all places (including souvenir and gift shops) will kindly accept U.S. dollars and major credit cards. There are ATM machines in Nairobi if required—bring your PIN number.

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 26 DOCUMENTS: A passport valid for at least six months beyond your planned departure from Nairobi is required. Visas (are/are not) required for entry by United States citizens. Non-United States citizens should check with their consulate/embassy for instructions.

EQUIPMENT: You should pack a pair of binoculars that are in good repair, along with a belt pack or day pack (for carrying books, sunscreen, extra film, etc.). As a precaution, it is a good idea to pack your binoculars, a change of clothing, toiletry items, medications and travel documents in your airline carry-on bag. Your leader will have a spotting scope, but if you have one and wish to bring it, please feel free to do so.

HEALTH: VENT follows Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommendations for standard travel precautions, which includes vaccination against a variety of preventable diseases. Among these so-called Routine Vaccinations are measles/mumps/rubella (MMR) vaccine, diphtheria/pertussis/tetanus (DPT) vaccine, poliovirus vaccine (boosters for adult travelers), and Varicella (Chickenpox). You should also be up-to-date with Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B vaccinations.

If you are taking personal medication, prescription or over-the-counter, be sure to bring an ample supply that will allow you to get through the tour safely. Please consult your physician as necessary. Remember to pack all medication in your carry-on baggage, preferably in original containers or packaging. As airline baggage restrictions can change without warning, please check with your airline for procedures for packing medication.

COVID-19: The world has been in the grip of a pandemic since early 2020, a result of the uncontrolled spread of SARS-CoV-2, the novel coronavirus that causes the illness COVID-19. COVID-19 is transmitted through person- to-person contact, almost always through inhaling respiratory aerosols or droplets exuded from an infected person. Common signs of COVID-19 illness include fever or chills, fatigue, shortness of breath, cough, loss of taste or smell, and more. Based on what is known about the disease, COVID-19 is far more serious than seasonal flu. Few places in the world have been unaffected. The impact on travel has been substantial, as demonstrated by the fact that VENT did not operate a tour between late March 2020 and late April 2021. The development and deployment of COVID-19 vaccines, particularly in the United States, has allowed VENT to return to tour operations. We emphasize that our number one priority is the health and safety of our customers and employees. With this in mind, VENT instituted a COVID-19 vaccination requirement. All tour participants and tour leaders must be fully vaccinated in order to travel with us while we are still in a declared public health emergency. In accordance with the latest guidance from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), full vaccination is defined as an individual being 14 days beyond having received the required amount of vaccine for reaching full immunity to the degree specific vaccines confer. In the United States, so far, this means either the two-shot sequence for the Moderna or Pfizer vaccines or the one-shot Johnson & Johnson vaccine. Proof of vaccination must be provided to our office at least one week before the start of the tour and kept with you while on the tour. Because the world is a very different place than it was before the pandemic, we’ve made a number of important adjustments to our processes to ensure that our tours can operate as safely as possible. Please visit the Coronavirus Travel Update page of our website https://ventbird.com/covid-19, where you may view our COVID-19 Protocols for VENT Tours document, which details the guidance VENT will follow in the operation of its tours in the time of pandemic. Our decision and policy are firmly rooted in the latest CDC guidance regarding recommendations for avoiding COVID-19. As we move forward, VENT will continue to follow the latest information from the CDC and will update our policy accordingly. Please visit the CDC website for the most up to date information about COVID-19 and associated guidance for proper health and hygiene: https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019- nCoV/index.html.

In addition to your physician, a good source of general health information for travelers is the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in Atlanta, which operates a 24-hour recorded Travelers’ Information Line (800) CDC-INFO (800-232-4636). You can check the CDC website at https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel. Canadian citizens should check the website of the Public Health Agency of Canada: https://www.canada.ca/en/public- health.html (click on Travel Health).

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION: Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 27 Departure Tax - None Electricity - For Kenya the associated plug type is G, which is the plug that has 3 pin rectangular, unfused in a triangular pattern like the UK. Kenya operates on a 240V supply voltage Language - Swahili and English are the official languages Time - 9 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time

SUGGESTED READING: A number of traditional booksellers and online stores list excellent inventories of field guides and other natural history resources that will help prepare you for this tour. We recommend www.amazon.com which has a wide selection; www.buteobooks.com and www.nhbs.com which specialize in ornithology and natural history books; and www.abebooks.com for out-of-print and hard-to-find titles.

Birds:

Stevenson, T & J. Fanshawe. A Field Guide to the Birds of East Africa: Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2002. This book is the one to buy if you do not already have the Zimmerman field guide. Well-illustrated, up to date, and recommended.

Van Perlo, Ber. Collins Illustrated Checklist: Birds of East Africa. Collins, 1995. This is a much more compact, yet complete coverage of East African birds. Illustrations are small, but generally good, though there is little back- up text. An excellent compromise for light and easy field use.

Zimmerman, Dale A., Donald A. Turner and David J. Pearson. Birds of Kenya and Northern Tanzania. Helm Field Guides, 2001 (revised). This is a detailed, comprehensive and well-illustrated field guide − very good for birding this region and no larger than the Stevenson guide. The smaller paperback edition is more suitable for field use.

Mammals:

Kingdon, Jonathan. The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals. London: Academic Press, Harcourt Brace and company, 1997. A complete and informative guide to African mammals; full of information and good illustrations.

Kingdon, Jonathan. The Kingdon Pocket Guide to African Mammals. London: Christopher Helm, 2016 (second edition). A much smaller, lighter pocket version of the excellent field guide above, but still with excellent information and the same illustrations. Suggested if you are on a mission to reduce weight!

Stuart, Chris, and Tilde. Southern, Central and East African Mammals: A Photographic Guide. Chelsea Green Publishing Company, 1998. For those wanting a much lighter reference, this is your book. Excellent photos and good brief text to most of the mammals we are likely to see in a very compact pocket-sized format.

Estes, Richard Despard. The Behavior Guide to African Mammals. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1991. A splendidly detailed book with masses of information on the ecology of all the wonderful large mammals we shall see.

Reptiles:

S. Spawls, K. Howells, R. Drewes & J. Ashe. A Field Guide to the Reptiles of East Africa. Academic Press, 2002. A super-comprehensive, though large and heavy, guide to reptiles.

S. Spawls, K. Howells, & R. Drewes. Pocket Guide to the Reptiles and Amphibians of East Africa. Christopher Helm Publications (in UK), 2006. 144 pages, 230 color plates. This is a lightweight and portable guide, partly adapted from the popular and highly acclaimed field guide reviewed above. Covering the most prominent 150 reptiles and 80 amphibians found in the region (Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi), with concise Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 28 text, photographs and a map for each, this is a convenient and attractive pocket guide for a diverse and often conspicuous group of animals.

Branch, Bill. A Photographic Guide to the Snakes, Other Reptiles and Amphibians of East Africa. Struik, 2005. A very handy, slim yet fairly comprehensive little guide to reptiles and amphibians.

Plants:

Blundell, M. Wild Flowers of East Africa. New York: HarperCollins Pub Ltd, 1999. A handy field guide with good photographs for anyone especially interested in the botany.

General:

There is a wealth of material available for this region. Suggested good “general” reading about Africa, the wildlife, history and former lifestyles include:

Douglas-Hamilton, Iain. Among the Elephants. New York: Viking Press, 1975.

Grzimek, Bernard. Serengeti Shall Not Die. New York: Dutton, 1968.

Matthiessen, Peter. The Tree Where Man Was Born. Penguin Press, 1995.

Moss, Cynthia. Portraits in the Wild: Animal Behavior in East Africa. (2nd ed.) Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1982.

Packer, Craig. Into Africa. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1996.

Reader, John. Africa: A Biography of a Continent. Penguin, 1998.

Schaller, George. Serengeti Lions a Study of Predator-Prey Relations. 1976.

Zimmerman, Dale A. Turaco Country. Portal, Arizona: Sky Island Press, 2015. This recently published book is a masterfully written memoir of the author’s 30 years of fieldwork in east Africa (Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda). Zimmerman writes extensively of birds, mammals, butterflies and plants, from both the perspective of a professional biologist and an accomplished birder and natural historian. Much attention is given to the author’s early visits to the region in the early 1960s, and, as such, provides an evocative account of a time when visitors on safari could tent camp virtually anywhere. This book makes excellent pre-and-post-tour reading (and the photographic selection is remarkable), but it is too big and heavy to carry with you on tour.

TIPPING: Tipping (restaurant staff, porters, drivers, local guides) is included on VENT tours. However, if you feel one or both of your VENT leaders or any local guides have given you exceptional service, it is entirely appropriate to tip. We emphasize that tips are not expected and are entirely optional. Tips should be given directly to your tour leader; they should not be sent to the VENT office.

RESPONSIBILITY STATEMENT: Victor Emanuel Nature Tours, Inc., a Texas corporation, and/or its agents (together, “VENT”) act only as agents for the participant in regard to travel, whether by railroad, motorcar, motorcoach, boat, or airplane and assume no liability for injury, damage, loss, accident, delay, or irregularity which may be occasioned either by reason of defect in any vehicle or for any reason whatsoever, or through the acts or default of any company or person engaged in conveying the participant or in carrying out the arrangements of the tour. VENT accepts no responsibility for losses or additional expenses due to delay or changes in airfare or other services, sickness, weather, strike, war, quarantine, terrorism, or other causes. All such losses or expenses will be borne by the participant, as tour rates only provide for arrangements for the time stated.

Magical Kenya: Exotic Birds & Big Game Galore! Page 29 VENT reserves the right (i) to substitute hotels of similar category, or the best reasonable substitution available under the circumstances, for those indicated and (ii) to make any changes in the itinerary that are deemed necessary by VENT or which are caused by third party transportation schedules (i.e. railroad, motorcar, motorcoach, boat, airplane, etc.).

VENT reserves the right to substitute leaders or guides on any tour. Where VENT, in its sole discretion, determines such substitution is necessary, it will notify tour participants.

VENT reserves the right to cancel any tour prior to departure with or without cause or good reason. See the VENT Cancellation & Refunds policy set forth above.

Tour prices are based on tariffs and exchange rates in effect on June 10, 2021, and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change thereto.

VENT reserves the right to decline any participant’s Registration Form and/or refuse to allow any participant to participate in a tour as VENT deems reasonably necessary, in its sole discretion. VENT also reserves the right to remove any tour participant from any portion of a tour as VENT deems necessary, in its sole discretion, reasons for such removal include but are not limited to, medical needs, injury, illness, inability to meet physical demands of a tour, personality conflict or situations in which such removal is otherwise in the best interest of the tour, the tour group and/or such participant. A participant may also voluntarily depart from a tour. If a participant is removed from a tour or voluntarily departs from a tour, such participant will be responsible for any expenses associated with such removal or departure, including but not limited to, transportation, lodging, airfare and meals, and VENT will have no obligation to refund or reimburse any such removed or departed participant for any tour payments or deposits previously paid by such participant.

Baggage is carried at the participant’s risk entirely. No airline company, its employees, agents and/or affiliates (the “Airline”) is to be held responsible for any act, omission, or event during the time participants are not on board the Airline’s aircraft. The participant ticket in use by any Airline, when issued, will constitute the sole contract between the Airline and the purchaser of the tickets and/or the participant. The services of any I.A.T.A.N. carrier may be used for VENT tours, and transportation within the United States may be provided by any member carrier of the Airlines Reporting Corporation.

MKN:20220806 AW6/10/2021 PS 6/10/2021