A TRIP TO MOTOVUN FOR WINE AND TRUFFLES

THE RESTAURANT ZIGANTE IS ALREADY KNOWN. IT'S TIME TO MEET HIS BROTHER’S WINE CELLAR.

GIOVANNI CHADES PHOTO NEVIO DOZ

otovun is a town that overlooks the valley of the River (the Quiet one) from its perch on a hill 277 meters high, and honors the quietness of its waters. The town lights are visible at night from far away, and after M reaching it one can see that it is an ancient and charming medieval hamlet with city walls, gates, towers and buildings resembling a typical Istrian Kaštel (citadel). The town is easily reached from , and even more accessible (if coming from ) from , the ancient Pinquentium. Arriving, you’ll have the feeling that time has stopped, although most of the stone houses are completely refurbished inside. Such rich history has not stopped the strides in gastronomy in recent decades as lovers of Istrian cuisine well know, and especially lovers of Istrian truffles. The white tuber, discovered by a couple of Tuscan railroad workers, has created great interest among the public at large as well as the truffle market lately, and is now a key draw at local restaurants and taverns. Among the first to become popular with truffle lovers was Restaurant Zigante (Tel. +385 (0) 52 664302, ), in Livade opposite Motovun. Named after Giancarlo Zigante, the first to recognize the potential of the ‘’smelly, malodorous potato’’ – as it was once known to local peasants. Zigante made good use of truffles by opening a series of authentic truffle boutiques that also showcase other regional specialties. Despite its modest exterior, the restaurant has two very elegant rooms with stone and brick walls. Service is led by the maitre d’ Emil Perdec and the cuisine is characterized by creativity, with a seasonal menu that closely tracks the availability of truffles. After the summer ''aestivum'', winter brings the white tuber magnatum pico as well as some very aromatic black brumale like the one in Zigantte’s carpaccio of scampi in Damir Modrušan, Restaurant Zigante

terina (tureen). Insider’s tip? We highly recommend the forest quail with potatoes, black truffles and truffled wine sauce as well as the goose liver with potatoes, white truffle sauce and homemade noodles. And for dessert, an exquisite truffle ice cream. A four course menu paired with wine runs about 100 Euros, and substantially more if one wants even more truffles. A more traditional option is the Tavern Pod Voltom (Tel. +385 (0) 52 681923), at the top of Motovun just below the city entrance, where the noodles and filet with truffles is a must. Also in Motovun, the three-star Hotel Kaštel (Tel. +385 (0) 52 681607, 681735, ) has recently undergone renovation and is very pleasant. The new rooms range from 30 to 55 Euro, depending of the season and type of room, with an interesting pension offer: for an extra 5 Euros guests receive an Istrian menu and, in summer, the opportunity to eat outside under a mulberry tree and wild chestnut trees. But this is a land of excellent wines, too. While Giancarlo Zigante is synonymous with truffles, his brother and nephew, though far less known, are the owners of an excellent winery. Owned by the family for generations, in just a few years Denis Zigante and his father Duvilio have taken their little wine cellar to new heights. Famous for Istrian Teran, the vineyards comprise 14 hectares with a production of 80 thousand bottles a year. The winery is located in Kostanjevica, few hundred meters from Ponte porton and the main road near Grožnjan (Tel. +385 (0) 52 721930). The wine is smooth and distinguished by the way it complements typical traditional Istrian dishes like maneštra (minestrone), fusi pasta with poultry, and meat in tecia (ceramic pot). You can enjoy the wine for 20 Euros with these traditional dishes in agritourism Radešić (Tel. +385 (0) 52 776001) just few kilometers away in Punta along the road from Buje. The price is the same for the fresh, elegant and aromatic Malvazija. “Vero,” a complex, harmonious wine that has been macerated on the skins and aged in oak and acacia barrels, sells for 9 Euros in the wine cellar as does the muscatel. The Zigante brothers have also just announced that together with their mother, Mirjana, they will soon begin producing olive oil from their 200 own trees. The family of Denis’s girlfriend, the Černacs from near the Grožnjan area, are caring for the trees in the meantime.