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RETAIL Nontraditional Retail Is Setting Trends in Retail Real Estate By Andrew Asch Retail Editor

Representatives of some of the newest trends in retail took the stage at the nternational Council of Shopping Centers estern Conference Deal Making convention, which ran Sept. 16–1 at the Los Angeles Con ention Center in the city’s downtown. Speaking on the conference’s experiential-retail panel were Allison Samek, chief executive officer of red Segal, and Tony Sekora, director of real-estate development at Nordstrom nc Samek said that the brand would build new stores overseas, a plan that was announced earlier this year when the retailer was acquired in March for an undisclosed amount by the brand-licensing agency lobal cons. Retail Real Estate page 18

SUSTAINABILITY DuPont Sorona Makes a Sustainable-Apparel Connection With Farm- to-Table Food Sourcing the dark side By Dorothy Crouch Managing Editor Through establishing parallels between the locally sourced, slow-food movement and the slowing down of For her Spring 2020 collection, designer Dalia MacPhee made florals a bit apparel production from fast fashion, DuPont Sorona hosted an event on Sept. 11 to promote more-responsible approaches more magical by relying on season-appropriate prints in deeper hues. to fashion. Bringing together professionals from the apparel business, garment-industry watchdogs and environmental-

MICHAEL BEZJIAN conservation organizations, Sorona illustrated how principles from farm-to-table food sourcing could be applied to fashion manufacturing. Spring Romance Takes a Dark Twist for Dalia MacPhee To make the connection between the practices that made farm-to-table food sourcing more accessible to the average Daring to go darker for her Spring 2020 collection, Working with a list of celebrity clients that includes Amber DuPont Sorona page 4 Canadian-born, Los Angeles-based designer Dalia MacPhee Riley, Niecy Nash, Maria Canals-Barrera, Mickey Guyton recently unveiled her latest collection, which exudes notes of and Shannon Elizabeth, MacPhee has been a favorite in dark romance blended with a bit of fun. Hollywood for a number of years. Day dresses in her Spring Drawing inspiration for her prints from nature and Art 2020 collection were created for women to appear chic INSIDE: Deco elements, the avid equestrian also incorporated details without feeling confined or restricted when wearing them. Where fashion gets down to business SM from the sport, which often influences her work. Relying on “I wanted my day dresses to be comfortable yet stylish— florals and unique prints for the line, MacPhee took a turn hence belt and -dress treatments—something she can toward the dark side for some of her pieces, incorporating dress up or down, wear to work and then out later,” MacPhee romantic pinks, golden yellows, rich purples and tempting explained. reds. Other pieces nod to traditional bright Spring hues and Committed to creating vegan and cruelty-free designs, equestrian-influenced prints such as images of horses and MacPhee used chiffons, poly chiffons, blends and tack. jerseys.—D.C. 2 17 Boardriders’ new moves ... p. 2 A CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS SPECIAL SECTION Fresh Pantone colors ... p. B Inside YKK made in the U.S.A. ... p. B Resource Guide ... p. J Page A Preview Salesforce ... p. 18 and Resource Guide www.apparelnews.

CAN01,04,18-COVER.indd 1 9/19/19 7:23 PM NEWS Boardriders Announces Slate of New Houston Duroe to Week in Review Execs and New Campaigns Helm Surf Expo Joor a New York–headquartered digital wholesale platform for fashion, Boardriders nc announced a number of ndustry Manufacturers Association. A new show beauty and home, announced Sept. 17 initiatives on Sept. 1 that will put it on a path North will coordinate the rollout of the director will helm that it was going to ramp up operations to growth, according to David Tanner, chief growth initiatives, global retail strategy and Surf E po. It was in Europe through a partnership with executive officer of the Huntington Beach, cross-brand commercial strategies. He will announced Sept. 1 the Premium Group, a European Calif.–based action-sports company. also oversee Billabong Men’s, Billabong that Nikki Houston fashion trade-show organizer. Also These changes include new executives, Women’s, Quiksilver, Roxy and cel. Duroe was promoted on Sept. 17, Joor announced that it expansion into additional categories and According to a company statement, to show director and had acquired Veee.com, another B2B closing the books on a turbulent few years leadership teams of these lines will continue will report to Roy platform. that featured a bankruptcy, restructuring to serve in their positions, but Mark Weber Turner, a senior vice Nikki Houston Duroe and the acquisition of will assume the new role of president at Emerald almart announced this week that Billabong, the former rival global general manager for E hibitions, which owns Surf Expo. Turner it has revived the Scoop NYC brand, of Boardrider’s uiksil er Billabong Men’s, and Katie had previously served as show director. which was featured on the influential brand, Tanner said. Singer will serve in the The biannual trade show focuses on HBO series “Sex and the City.” Scoop Boardriders is the parent new role of global general surfwear, swim and beach-culture styles. It is shuttered its last bricks-and-mortar company of leading action- manager for Billabong produced at the range County Con ention stores in 2016. Walmart unveiled its sports brands Quiksilver, Women’s. Dan Levine Center in Orlando, Fla. Scoop styles on Walmart.com and in Billabong, Ro y, D C will take on the new role “Nikki is a strong, proven leader for Surf its bricks-and-mortar stores this week. Shoes, R CA, Element, of global general manager Expo and has a great understanding of the It will sell more than 100 Scoop pieces on ipper and cel. of the street category, multiple markets we serve,” Turner said. ranging from 15 for graphic tees “After a decade of which will coordinate the “Her experience and outstanding track record to 65 for a coat, with footwear and headwinds and restructuring, Shannan North company’s efforts in skate are assets that will help us continue to build handbags also available. Boardriders now has that and streetwear styles. and strengthen the show.” strong foundation and is ready and able to Levine will continue to direct DC Shoes and The first show that Houston Duroe will Lee unveiled Shape Illusions, an invest strategically at scale in our brands, our perform global strategy leadership for the direct is scheduled to run Jan. –10. Her new inclusive collection patterned people and these targeted growth initiatives,” Element brand. David Brooks will move out job is rooted in a wide-ranging job experience on a size-1 form, said Betty Madden, he said in a statement. of his job as global general manager of the with Surf Expo and its sibling shows. In 1999, the company’s vice president of global These initiatives include increasing Element brand and work in the newly created she served as an account executive for Surf design. A brand statement said that speed-to-market capabilities and regional role of global general manager, partnerships Expo. From 200 to 2013, she worked as a the collections use strategically placed flexibility for product development as well and distribution. show director for the mprinted Sportswear seams, shading and contouring to give as a new sustainability platform. Tanner At RVCA, Brad Blankinship was named Shows, which focuses on blank T- and a fit that will “lift, lengthen, conceal also announced a flurry of new executives global general manager, while Cathey the direct-to-garment printing business. and contour.” Retail price points range who will help execute the company’s fresh Curtis will serve as the general manager of Emerald Exhibitions also announced other from 25 to 30 and will be sold at initiatives. RVCA Women’s and also the global head Surf Expo promotions. John “JR” Rosenberg Walmart as well as on Lee.com and Shannan North will serve in the new of sustainability. Nate Smith will serve as was promoted to senior category manager. Walmart.com. role of president for commercial strategy president of the Americas, and Greg Healy Rosenberg will oversee Surf Expo’s Coastal and growth. He was formerly a Billabong will serve as global president of Europe, the Gift, Resort and Souvenir categories. Marina Schiano,77, died Sept. . global brand president and currently serves Middle East, Africa and the Asia Pacific. Ryan Nettleton will start as the category She was a prominent New York City as the president of the trade group Surf — dr sch sales manager for Surf Expo’s Bluewater, model in the 1960s and a confidante Boutique and Wake sections. and business associate of Yves Saint The announcement of Houston Duroe’s Laurent. After running the Saint promotion followed the cancellation of the Sept. Laurent menswear boutique on New 5–7 run of Surf Expo. Turner told C or York’s Madison Avenue in the early r N s that the highly anticipated 1970s, Schiano later served as president trade show was canceled due to safety fears of of the designer’s North American Hurricane Dorian battering the Florida coast. operations. Later, she became the While Dorian did not make a direct hit on the publicity director for Calvin Klein and coast, other major facilities such as Disney eventually made the leap into stylist orld and the rlando nternational Airport and style editor with publications such were closed during the same weekend Surf as ty r. Expo’s closure was announced.— . . It takes dollars to make a difference

The California Fashion Association responds to every CalendarCalendar issue affecting the apparel and textile industry of Califor- Sept. 22 Sept. 25 Interfilière Shanghai The Deerfield Show China International Fashion Fair nia…and is making a major impact on the media, as well Young Label Awards Embassy Suites Chicago Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Shanghai Exhibition Centre as city, state and federal officials. Deerfield, Ill. Fabrics Shanghai Through Sept. 23 Yarnexpo Through Sept. 27 California Fashion Association Gift & Home Fall Market National Exhibition & Convention The offers access to LA Mart Center Sept. 29 Los Angeles Shanghai professional advice and service for every facet of the The Trends Show Through Sept. 24 Through Sept. 27 business. If you are involved in domestic manufacturing, Phoenix Convention Center Sept. 23 Sept. 26 Phoenix or off-shore programs, the issues within the industry Through Oct. 2 Dallas Design Week City of Hope’s Fashion and Retail affect your growing businesses! Dallas Market Center Leadership Council presents the Dallas Women’s Leadership Panel Line Hotel There’s more Through Sept. 26 on ApparelNews.net. Los Angeles We welcome your participation in the business-of-doing- Paris Fashion Week Women business. powered by The Society Carrousel du Louvre For calendar details and contact Paris information, visit ApparelNews. Join us now! Through Oct. 1 net/events.

Submissions to the calendar should be emailed to the Calendar Editor at [email protected]. Please include the event’s CFA name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to 444 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, CA 90071 Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff. Tel: 213 688 6288. Fax: 213 688 6290 POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, Email: [email protected] FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water wear®, New Website: www.californiafashionassociation.org York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2019 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub lished weekly except semi-weekly first week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

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DuPont Sorona Continued from page 1 DALLAS APPAREL & ACCESSORIES MARKET APPAREL | ACCESSORIES | FOOTWEAR OCTOBER 22-25, 2019 JANUARY 14 -18, 2020

Styles created using Sorona

consumer, Sorona served locally sourced E change in addition to enjoying eko Te dishes from Bay Area companies. For Standard 100 Class 1 certification. apparel-industry professionals, the main While discerning consumers can be attraction was seeing models outfitted in difficult to impress when they are investing in looks that were created with materials using apparel that claims to be green, conservation Sorona . groups are tougher. A testament to Sorona’s “Any fashion, from intimates to swimwear commitment to more-sustainable fibers could and all the way up to high fashion, can be be recognized in its inclusion of members comfortable, can be beautiful and can be from these groups in the event. At Sausalito, sustainable,” said Sorona Global Marketing Calif.–based conservation organization Director of Biomaterials Renee Henze. The Marine Mammal Center, Chief The event was hosted on Angel Island Development and Communications Officer in San Francisco with food sourced from John Warner monitors the impact different surrounding areas to illustrate the great industries have on the ecosystem and its potential to cultivate crops locally in order to marine inhabitants. provide resources closer to the manufacturing “[Within our organization,] we had a plants that produce plant-based fibers for great conversation regarding how this is a . wonderful step in the right direction,” he said. “Our whole idea around this was to look “We want efforts like this to succeed because at the food community that has, for a few of what we know about our immediate decades now, been forward thinking about backyard, the San Francisco Bay, having the the local, community, slow-food movement. greatest micro-plastics pollution according to From a sustainability standpoint, it awakened a report from a few years back.” a thought-provoking conversation,” Henze While Warner is optimistic regarding said. “I thought ‘What can we learn from the Sorona’s advancements and understands food community? How do we bring more that a fully sustainable supply chain is built textiles into local regions?’” gradually, he emphasizes that to be successful Prior to her role with Sorona, Henze this type of initiative must be implemented worked in the sustainable-food industry. The throughout the entire industry. seemingly unlikely pairing of experience “DuPont will only be half of the answer. in ecological food sourcing with textile The apparel industry needs to invest in and production proved to be a reasonable use these products to support these efforts connection to work toward creating more- and get to 100 percent bio-based rather than sustainable fibers. nearly 0 percent,” he said. “Forty percent “First, chefs and the restaurateurs sourced is really commendable, but 100 percent is food locally. It made its way to high-end what we want. It is the apparel industry’s grocery stores like Berkeley Bowl and opportunity to take this to the next level.” elson s. Then, other grocers like roger During her time at the event, Ariel said, ‘Oh, I want that.’ It’s approximately a Raymon, who is the brand partnerships 10-year process,” she said of the time frame manager for apparel and home goods to shift from luxury to mass market. “Textiles at Oakland, Calif.’s air Trade USA, are heading in that direction, but it is more enjoyed seeing the presentation of Sorona- complicated because of where goods are based apparel. In her line of work, forging manufactured and all the steps in the supply these connections with more-sustainable chain.” manufacturers is helpful to work toward a Relying on plant-based PDO—or common eco-friendlier manufacturing goal. 1,3-propanediol—that is combined with “At Fair Trade, we like to be aware of terephthalic acid, Sorona is a bio-based the newest programs and alternatives for polymer that reduces the need for sourcing sustainable textiles in the industry. It’s petroleum. The resulting polymer comprises important to be aware of the other initiatives 37 percent renewable, plant-based material even if they are indirectly related to our Fair and is used to create textiles for different Trade factory program,” she said. “We also industries, including apparel. often play matchmaker with prospective According to DuPont, the process clients. We connect them up with factories doesn’t require textiles to be subjected to and sustainable textile sourcing as well.” high temperatures for and , Impressed by the variety of professionals thereby requiring 30 percent less energy and who attended the event, Raymon was releasing 63 percent fewer greenhouse gas happy to see a common goal of promoting emissions than 6. It also utilizes 0 sustainability among attendees, who hailed percent less energy and releases 56 percent from different backgrounds. fewer greenhouse gas emissions than nylon “It was amazing to be in a community 6, 6. with like-minded individuals for an evening. As a bio-based material, Sorona enjoys Each person there had a different connection certification by the United States Department to sustainability and fashion, and it was of Agriculture’s BioPreferred Program. very inspiring,” she said. “I’m glad to see a It is also a Bluesign partner, Sustainable company like DuPont put so much effort and Apparel Coalition partner, Sustainable research into developing a material that could Brands member and part of Te tile have such a wide reach.” ●

4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS SEPTEMBER 20–26, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

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A CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS SPECIAL SECTION SEPTEMBER 2019

TEXTILE NOTES TEXTILE TRENDS Pantone Expands Its Library by Adding 294 Cozy Cloth Colors to Matching System Night and Day The Vibe YKK Brings Eco-zipper Production to the U.S. Eco-friendly Fabrics A Floral for All Seasons Delicate Delights

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CAN05.TextileCover_new.indd 1 9/19/19 7:27 PM ACCESSORIES Eco-friendly Zippers to Be Manufactured Stateside by YKK After five years of manufacturing its For every 10,000 Natulon zippers, Natulon zippers from recycled materials, the which measure nearly 2 inches, YKK Tokyo-based notions manufacturer utilizes approximately 3,600 plastic bottles. announced that it will bring production of By creating these products in the United these goods to the United States. While the States, the company will reduce its negative foundation of YKK’s Natulon products environmental impact and lead times to has been to create products based upon afford a more efficient supply chain to its manufacturing with PET bottles, unused customers. This move reduces the supply fibers and remnants of other chain for YKK’s denim partners that rely on materials, the company is looking to further the company’s Natulon Material Recycled reduce its carbon footprint by shrinking the Tape for the production of jeans and related distance in the apparel-production supply products in North and Central America. chain by producing these goods in Macon, “We feel that supporting our customers Ga. by producing our Natulon-material recycled zipper locally in Macon, Ga., is one of the best ways we can fulfill our mission as a company,” Miller said. By including Natulon under its sustainable- trim category, YKK has been able to expand beyond zipper production by also producing snaps and buttons in Lawrenceburg, Ky. These notions are finished through a more ecologically sound process that bypasses electroplating in favor of its Elements finish. This process reduces water waste and water usage by 75 percent, or 150 gallons per production cycle, eliminates chelating agents and reduces electricity. Through this method, creating these products reduces thermal energy, toxic chemicals and overall waste. The company’s commitment to becoming According to Brian Miller, director and increasingly environmentally responsible business leader for pants and workwear also includes reducing carbon emissions that industries at YKK U.S.A. Inc., this most can be directly linked to manufacturing, in recent decision by the company is simply addition to indirect causes such as energy an additional step toward the greater good, consumption at its factories, materials which has been a tenet of YKK’s mission sourcing and transportation. Additionally, the since its founding. company has offset an annual rate of 96 tons

“[Ever] since YKK was founded in of CO2 after installing nearly 2,000 rooftop 193 , all of our business activities have solar modules at its Anaheim, Calif., location been guided by our ‘Cycle of Goodness’ in 2015. philosophy, which embodies our belief that “Today, every major brand is dedicated Spirit no one prospers without rendering benefit to to environmentally friendly materials and others,” he explained via email. “Protecting manufacturing, sustainability awareness and the environment is no exception—in fact, our creating a more sustainable industry,” Miller Enterprise Environmental Pledge, which says that we said. “They all have global corporate social- will promote ‘harmony with the environment responsibility policies. This is especially as the highest priority of our business important to younger consumers.” Your best fabric resource activities,’ has been in effect since 199 .” —Dorothy Crouch for Bridal Gowns and Haute Couture NEWS

Featured at the Oscar and Emmy Awards red carpet Pantone Expands Its Library by Adding events, celebrity weddings and performances 294 Colors to Matching System Color authority Pantone LLC, recently all PMS and FHI colors online to work on • Lace introduced 29 colors to its library, the first projects in real time. • Embroidery addition to its Pantone Matching System “Adding the launch of the Pantone since 2016. The Carlstadt, N.J., organization Extension for the Adobe Creative Cloud • Appliqué and more mentioned that by adding these trend- to this mix will enhance the ability to relevant hues it increased its library to more identify, communicate and verify colors Innovative designs than 2,100 colors and affords greater cross- both physically and digitally in the Pantone referencing capabilities to its Fashion, Home universe,” Fern ndez said. In-house customization Interiors system. As the apparel industry becomes “We are always attuned to the changing increasingly reliant on solutions that Visit our showroom at: market and the needs of our creative provide more-customized and immediate customers,” said Adri n Fern ndez, vice solutions created to help designers fulfill 1301 S. Main St. #232 president and general manager of Pantone. consumer demand, these creatives require Los Angeles, CA 90015 “As a result, we are excited to create an even tools that allow them to work efficiently at (213) 689-1999 more efficient workflow as we roll out new an increased pace. colors for the graphic arts and improved “By integrating the full Pantone www.spiritlace.com cross-referencing between Pantone’s PMS experience, including the 29 new colors and FHI color systems.” added to the graphics library into Adobe Visit us at the Along with its extensive color selection, Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign, the which includes basics in neutrals, tans, Pantone Extension for the Adobe Creative LA Textile Show grays, navy and black, Pantone said that its Cloud delivers simple, intuitive and California Market Ctr. most recent color guides provide consistency collaborative color workflow management Oct. 2–4, 2019 across media, whether in physical or digital for designers,” said Vijay Vachani, Adobe formats. By using the Pantone Extension senior director of partner ecosystems. Booth #307 for the Adobe Creative Cloud, which relies “Adobe and Pantone are excited to explore on the Adobe Exchange for Creative Cloud more opportunities to improve the everyday

Michael Costello Couture Marketplace, designers are able to access lives of our shared customers.” D.C.

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Italian Quality With Customization Set Night and Day The contrast between black and white has Pontex SPA Apart in the U.S. Market classically been used to add dramatic effect in fashion. Whether through stripes or polka In 2002, when Letizia Ferretti, newly customization.” dots, or , black and white continue graduated, came to work at Pontex, At the end of the day, “we aim to to provide new twists through this classic the Modena, Italy–based and be quick to propose a product and combination. textile company her father, Pio develop it in Italy—or at least have Italian GTC-LA Ferretti, had founded 30 years earlier, finishing—to add more value,” Ferretti she brought with her a fresh perspective says, although customers can choose Iabout the textile market in general and to receive semi-worked material to finish Italian textile production in particular. themselves. “The problem with many Italian “We must not only be quick and at a companies, they thought they could be good price but be proactive,” she points the super best in out, “understanding the world,” she what a customer says. Not that needs and they weren’t— developing it as but Ferretti soon as possible.” believed that high Providing an GTC-LA Bennet Silks Robert Kaufman Fabrics quality is only one array of services factor in a now provided in or global-based outside Italy, but sourcing and maintaining strict manufacturing Letizia Ferretti Pio Ferretti Italian standards, world where sets Pontex apart speed and price points are just as from traditional fabric houses. “It’s all critical. There needed to be a different based on flexibility,” Ferretti says. “We approach that would go beyond an can go from basic quality with a high Italian and Euro-centric view. Rather, standard to a very rich quality with a she thought, Pontex’s approach should high standard. We can do anything— RC International Fabrics Inc. Robert Kaufman Fabrics Robert Kaufman Fabrics focus on personalization of service that finishing and producing in Italy a grade covers whatever a client requires while coming from China, or doing any and all always maintaining the high quality that processes in Italy, starting with the .” Italian production and finishing is known Pontex began as a purveyor of woven for. fabrics, primarily linen and cotton, for the “Our priority must be to serve the region’s ready-to-wear market but quickly client, who is king,” Ferretti says simply. expanded its offerings according to the Now the CEO of Pontex following the demands of the market. Today, it not only passing of her father in March, Ferretti specializes in cotton and linen of all types is firmly guiding the company with the but also outward-reaching, multi-pronged game corduroys, and plan she believes will allow Pontex to and silk/ Robert Kaufman Fabrics Robert Kaufman Fabrics expand its market and client base far cotton blends. beyond Italian shores. The last five or six Pontex is also years have found the company, which deep into specializes in taking raw or semi-finished development goods and elevating and enriching the of a range of finished product with Italian taste and organic and style, sourcing product in China, South recycled fibers The Vibe Korea, and Japan in addition to its home and BCI . Yarn-dyed stretch Japanese inspirations country to service brands around the “Our range of Growing interest in vintage clothing has world. items is enormous,” Ferretti attests. The drawn attention from a new generation that is In particular, Ferretti explains, Pontex, company keeps in stock around 30 to 40 now discovering once-beloved textile trends which produces both Summer and Fall/ items, some 2 million meters, “to cover Winter collections, is intent on making immediate requests.” that have come and gone in and out of style major inroads in the U.S. market, Ferretti is excited to be in the over different seasons. In particular, formerly targeting Los Angeles and New York, American marketplace, which the popular designs in mod prints and tie-dye among other arenas, with local agents company entered three years ago. “You have recently reappeared on runways and on and representatives. “This is the place can learn a lot in this market,” she says. retail racks. where we like to do business and “I like a lot the respect they have for express ourselves nowadays,” Ferretti Italian suppliers—a huge respect but says. “It is where we are inspired to also huge expectations. You can always improve ourselves—our company, our do more. It imposes improvement on the products.” company every day.” Pontex could easily rest on its Pontex is attending all the major prestigious client list—Armani, Versace, textile shows in the U.S. to raise its Texollini DJ Fabric Mill Inc./BFF Trussardi, Zara, Paul & Shark, Ralph profile, and the plan is working. “Many Studio Lauren, Hugo Boss, Marc Jacobs, did not know Pontex, but every day we and Tommy Hilfiger among the many are increasing the business,” Ferretti notables. But, as Ferretti sees it, the key says. “Those who try Pontex are still to success today is to listen to every working with Pontex.” client’s needs, at For the daughter of the company the high end or founder, who is charting her own path in lower end of the an increasingly complex and high-stakes spectrum, and market, there is an abiding appreciation look to develop for her country’s storied textile legacy. solutions in a “The fabric must always represent Italian wide range of taste, Italian values,” Ferretti says. “There ways. That could is always a high standard between City Textile Inc. United Fabrics United Fabrics Fabric Selection Inc. mean drawing Italy and fashion. It’s like producing International Inc. International Inc. on Pontex’s something related to art. It’s a fantastic stable of Italian feeling to see the final results.” Printed checks on cords and cottons weavers, dye and printing houses, and subcontractors skilled in the application of resins, laminations, and double-sided finishing, or looking to the Asian market for those services. Pontex www.pontexspa.it representatives China, South Korea, and Visit us at: Japan stand watch over quality control. Los Angeles Textile The company’s “deep goals,” Ferretti Oct. 2–4, California Market Center says, are “product development and La Lame Inc. Eclat Textile Co., Ltd. Charming Textile Co., Ltd./BFF Studio

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Textile shows tend to be big, sprawling affairs with booths and fabrics and jeans to stretch. But you still want to look fashionable. The line between function whatnot spread out over seeming acres of exhibition space. Steve McCullough, and fashion has become completely blurred.” a 25-year sourcing veteran of both exhibiting at and attending these events, Portland is all about performance, which is why McCullough counts Nike, knows well their exhausting aspect, where “you have to spend your day just trying Adidas, Columbia, Patagonia, and The North Face among its attendees. To to find the right ones,” he says. further focus the exhibitor offerings, the fair will have the exhibitors submit So when McCullough started going to the Performance Days, functional fabric swatches of their latest technology, divided into the 12 most important categories Tfair in Munich, Germany, he was both surprised and much taken by what he such as thermal regulation and waterproofing. A blind jury will pick the top 30 to experienced. “I liked that 50 submissions in each category. and present them on a best-of-the-best wall. it was very curated and There will also be a series of expert talks from guest speakers, with subjects focused,” he says. “It including color trends, sustainability, and “a deep dive” into different functionalities wasn’t a treasure hunt such as odor management and wicking. Several universities will also give talks to find someone great— about their textile they had all the greats programs “to bring a there. I knew that the younger community into U.S. did not have this the industry,” McCullough type of show.” says. Until now. And speaking of McCullough, who sustainability, part is event manager for and parcel of any the Connecticut-based Functional Fabric Reed Exhibitions, Fair is McCullough’s queried the Performance insistence on lessening Days management if the industry’s carbon they had any interest MUNICH | NEW YORK | PORTLAND REGISTERfootprint in every way NOW in expanding to the possible. As McCullough U.S. The answer was The New York show opens its doors to its second explains, “We only bring a definitive yes, and a edition at the Javits Center in July 2019. in factories that exercise partnership was born.OCT 2223, 2019 | OREGON CONVENTIONsustainable practices. CENTER Officially titled But the hard part as an The Expert Talks series highlights the latest Functional Fabric Fair—Powered by PERFORMANCE DAYS®, this exhibition company is trends and technologies in functional textiles. functional textile show got off to an auspicious, sold-out start in July of 2018 in that everything we do New York City. Now it prepares for its Portland, Oregon, debut October 22–23, needs to be sustainable showing product and technologies that will enter the market for the Winter 2021 as well.” To that end, the fair builds all the booths itself, using walls made from season—a move requested by many of its exhibitors “because their customers recycled fabrics that will be recycled again. “We have all this strict criteria about wanted us to go there,” McCullough explains. “The R&D teams for so many what you can bring in to the space,” he continues. For example, no Foamcore brands are located in and around Portland—it is such an incubator for the may be used for signage. “We want to be an example of how you conduct industry. We knew we’d yourself as a trade-show exhibitor.” have a built-in audience.” These While Reed owns and standards make runs the show, Munich’s for a pleasantly PERFORMANCE DAYS egalitarian serves as consultant. atmosphere “We try to emulate the where product Munich show as much speaks for itself. as we can,” McCullough The eventual goal says. “We don’t do for the fair is two anything without shows in Portland, consulting them. The in October and DNA they created we April, and one in wanted to bring here.” New York City in The similarities July, with Portland start with the show’s established as scope. “The beauty of the flagship for the show is its size,” the U.S. portfolio. A panel featuring performance-apparel powerhouses McCullough notes. “It Both New York draws a standing-room-only crowd. Visitors browse the Performance Forum to see a is not, and won’t be, a and Portland have juried selection of the best products showing. 900-exhibitor show.” been sold out, and Portland has a long waiting list. With PERFORMANCE DAYS’ Vendors are carefully guidance, McCullough believes he has the recipe for enduring success. chosen—“we say no more than we say yes”—with no more than 50 percent from “There is a beauty in the size of the show,” McCullough says. “Our aisles are any particular region of the world. They are interspersed –“I don’t allow pavilions,” filled with decisionmakers, people there to do business. The 2,000 attendees are says McCullough. What links the select exhibitors is the quality of their product the right 2,000. There is no smoke in the aisles.” and their standing in the performance-textile industry. They are “the movers and shakers in the industry,”DEFINING he points out. “By having THEthe best exhibitors, FUTURE by default OF PERFORMANCE you will have the bestFUNCTIONAL FABRIC FAIR Portland—powered by PERFORMANCE DAYS®—will launch in attendees.” Portland will differ the Fall of 2019 as a standalone event addressing a market need for a curated, sourcing from the New York fairplatform dedicated to outdoor and performance functional textiles and accessories. Alongside in one distinct aspect.expert-led education, the sold-out event hall will showcase products and technologies As McCullough explains it, “The core of Portlandthat will enter the market for the Winter 2021 season—all in a minimal-waste exhibition. is performance brands; the core of New YorkOPEN—FREE is OF CHARGE—TO VERIFIED INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS fashion brands.” Duly noting their customers’ 2019 EXHIBITORS INCLUDE: REGISTER NOW! desire for performance 37.5 Cocona CarolTex Eurojersey SpA JRC Reflex Polartec Toray Int’l fabrications, “typically PORTLAND, ORE. OCT 22–23, 2019 nonperformance brands3M Concept III Gehring Textiles Klingler RE:Down Tough absolutely devoured Bodyknits Devan Halley Stevensons Lenzing Fibers FUNCTIONALFABRICFAIR.COMSchoeller Wideplus what we had to offer,” Brrr drirelease Ideal Fastener Polygiene #FUNCTIONALFABRICFAIRThermore and more! he says. “You want your David Parkes, the founder of Concept III, conducts fabrics to do something,FUNCTIONALFABRICFAIR.COM | #FUNCTIONALFABRICFAIR your suit to stretch, your business with a customer.

FFF fp 092019.indd 1 9/19/19 7:19 PM TEXTILE TRENDS

Once mainly worn by men, suits are now used by all to send a strong message. From classic two- and three-piece suits used Suitable to make serious statements to pieces that are combined with streetwear elements for updated suiting, incorporating suit-weight textiles brings a touch of class to clothing.

Fabric Selection Inc. Tiss et Tient Tiss et Tient Tiss et Tient

Hope Star Charming Textile Co., Ltd./BFF Studio Z.Y. Tex/BFF Suzhou Minghe Overseas Ltd./BFF Studio Textile Material Co., Studio Ltd./BFF Studio

Often reminiscent of a favorite stuffed animal from Plush Cozy childhood, plush textiles have become one of the latest trending favorites in fashion. Blending warmth with luxury, Cloth these fabrics add a lush feel to traditional clothing.

Tiss et Teint GTC-LA GTC-LA

Trimax International/ Charming Textile Co., RC International Charming Textile Co., BFF Studio LTD.-BFF Studio Fabrics Inc. LTD.-BFF Studio Eco-friendly Fabrics The ever-growing emphasis on protection of the environment has given Top leading performance/ birth to sustainable textiles such as those created from bamboo, organic cotton, wood pulp and plastic water bottles. Pursuing an eco-friendly functional novelty knits collection message by using responsibly created textiles garners good will from with largest US ( Los Angeles ) customers seeking ecologically sound alternatives to everyday products. in-stock program on top selling active-lifestyle-resort/spa fabrics with low minimums.

Eclat Textile Co., Ltd. Chaintex Ltd./BFF 110 E. Ninth St. #A1178, L.A., CA 90079 Bossa Bossa Bossa Studio Main Office 626.961.9889 www.eclatusa.com Stefan Novak [email protected] • 213.624.2633 L.A. Textile Show, Booth #902 New CMC Showoom #C840 (Nov. 2019) [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Hangzhou Meho Bossa Hangzhou Meho Hangzhou Meho Textiles Co., Ltd./BFF Textiles Co., Ltd./BFF Textiles Co., Ltd./BFF Studio Studio Studio

H CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS / TEXTILE PREVIEW AND RESOURCE GUIDE SEPTEMBER 20–26, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

CAN08,10,12-13-textile-trends.indd 8 9/30/19 2:56 PM TEXTILE TRENDS

Technology has boosted the popularity of printed fabrics, which Passionate are popular in everyday fashion as well as special, custom-made pieces. Often used to relay personal expression, prints allow the wearer of a garment to make a bold statement without saying a Prints word.

Studio 93 Studio 93 FCN Textiles

City Textile Inc. Pontex SPA Hangzhou Meho Robert Kaufman Robert Kaufman Textiles Co., Ltd./ Fabrics Fabrics BFF Studio

Available in different shapes and sizes, trousers are now manufactured using Trouser an array of textiles but often rely on heavier weights for Fall collections. From vintage styles that draw inspiration from Grandpa or more-modern takes in denim that yield more formal, stylish cuts with a soft hand, trouser Trends textiles are offered in different textures and an array of colors.

Orta Anadolu Orta Anadolu Pontex SPA Bossa

IT Bossa Pontex SPA Orta Anadolu Orta Anadolu

Delicate Delights La Lame, Exclusive supplier of stretch fabrics A delicate textile, lace yields a weblike pattern that can be used as the presents foundation for a romantic look or incorporated as a smaller detail that softens an otherwise edgy style. Lace can be made by machine, but the An Innovative New Collection of Knitted & Woven finer examples are made by hand. Fabrics and Trims. Made in USA, Europe and Asia

Stretch & Rigid Allovers and Narrow , PVC Leather, Spacers Power , Microiber Kits, Metallic and Laces, Foil, Glitter, Flock, Embossing, FCN Textiles Solstiss Burnout Prints on Mesh, Tricot Solstiss and , Novelty Elastic Trim: Metallic, Sheer Ruffles, Lae, Prints and Rhinestones Sustainable Options Available Jean Bracq La Lame, Inc. 215 W. 40th Street 5th Floor, New York, NY 10018 Tel: 212-921-9770 Fax: 212-921-8167 Please Contact [email protected] www.lalame.com

Jean Bracq Spirit Lace Enterprise Spirit Lace Enterprise Spirit Lace Enterprise

APPARELNEWS.NET SEPTEMBER 20–26, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS / TEXTILE PREVIEW AND RESOURCE GUIDE I

CAN08,10,12-13-textile-trends.indd 9 9/19/19 7:39 PM Resource Guide 3A Products of America Functional Fabric Fair—powered Progressive Label Inc. Spirit Lace Enterprise 1006 S. San Pedro St. ® 2545 Yates Ave. 1301 S. Main St., #232 Los Angeles, CA 90015 by PERFORMANCE DAYS Commerce, CA 90040 Los Angeles, CA 90015 (213) 749-0103 [email protected] (323) 415-9770 (213) 689-1999 www.us3a.com www.FunctionalFabricFair.com Fax: (323) 415-9771 [email protected] Contact: Wayne Jung Products and Services: Functional Fabric Fair—powered by PER- [email protected] www.spiritlace.com Products and Services: 3A Products of America is a symbol of qual- FORMANCE DAYS®—is a highly-curated sourcing event showcasing www.progressivelabel.com Products and Services: Our fabrics and textiles are carefully chosen ity, serving you since 1975. Send your samples to us. We will help the latest innovations in fabric and accessories development for the Products and Services: Progressive Label is dedicated to helping from around the world, mainly European and Asian regions. We also you save money. Custom orders to meet your needs: snaps, knitted functional textile industry. Open free of charge to industry profes- companies develop and showcase their brand identity. From logo help clients to design and develop fabric patterns for a on brand elastic, zippers, webbing, buckles, and buttons with your logo. We offer sionals, the fair includes curated exhibits, industry presentations and labels and hangtags to care/content labels and price tickets, we experience with exclusivity offered. To design and develop your own threads, labels, accessories, interlining, display equipment, fabric and professional networking. Register today for the launch of Functional will develop, produce, and distribute your trim items worldwide. We unique fabrics might take from three weeks or more. We carry different product sourcing, website design, printing, and promotional items. Fast Fabric Fair Portland taking place Oct. 22-23 at the Oregon Convention specialize in producing custom products that will meet your design types of laces and embroideries such as Chantilly lace, Alençon lace, services are our first priority. Center featuring products and technologies that will enter the market and merchandising needs. We successfully launched production of all over embroideries with or without beads, embroidered fabric with for the Winter 2021 season. RFID price tickets last year. This demand is being greatly driven by 3-dimensional appliques, handmade appliques, tulles, trims, etc. We the big retailers such as Macy’s and Target. Our growth and market work with Bridal designers, Haute Couture fashion houses as well as California Label Products dynamics have resulted in opening up a production center in Tijuana, high end Ready To Wear brands. Most of our articles have sample 13255 S. Broadway Eclat Textile Co., Ltd. Mexico. We have also added advanced die cutter technology in our Los yardage in stock available for p/u or delivery. Our collection is updated Los Angeles, CA 90061 110 E 9th ST., # A1178 Angeles production center to streamline our production efforts and to according to forecasting trends every season. Visit us at L.A. Textile (310) 523-5800 Los Angeles, CA 90079 strengthen our packaging capabilities. A very important part of our show, from Oct. 2–4 at the California Market Center, booth #307. Fax: (310) 523-5858 (213) 624-2633 business is FLASHTRAK, our online ordering system for price tickets, Come say hi and get inspired! Contact: Tasha (323) 252-8848 custom products and care labels. Our mission is to deliver high-quality www.clp.global www.eclatusa.com products at competitive prices, wherever they are needed for produc- [email protected] [email protected] tion. We understand the rush nature of this industry and strive to meet Texollini Products and Services: California Label Products has been servicing Contact: Stefan Novak the tight deadlines facing our customers. 2575 El Presidio St. the apparel industry for 20 years. Our In-House Art Department can Products and Services: Direct mill with best technical-performance – Long Beach, CA 90810 help develop your brand identity with an updated look or provide you functional novelty knits in active-lifestyle market; largest US in-stock (310) 537-3400 with a quote on your existing items. We are known for our woven labels, program based in Los Angeles with immediate sample yardage - 1 roll RC International Fabrics Inc. www.texollini.com printed labels, heat transfers, size tabs, RFID price tickets, and custom to low minimums availability ; 3000 brand new items in annual collec- 3001 S. Main St. Products and Services: Capabilities that inspire. For 30 years, we hangtags; we also have a service bureau with quick turn-around time tion including interlocks, , pk, jacquards, ribs, , stripes , Los Angeles, CA 90007 have manufactured our collection of more than 5,000 European-quality and great pricing. We are dedicated to setting the highest standard of metallics sheer to heavyweight with moisture wicking, UV, anti-micro, (213) 200-4957 fabrics in our Los Angeles–based facility. We offer faster deliveries, excellence in our industry. Above all, we value quality, consistency, and stain-resistant finishes in fine gague technical yarn blends & large Fax: (213) 744-0940 superior quality control, and vertically-integrated services (including creating solutions that work for you. Check our website,www.clp.global selection of Sustainable fabrications. ACTIVE performance-function [email protected] circular knitting, design, R&D, dyeing, printing, and finishing) for all for a full product list, call (310) 523-5800, or email us and ask for one meets FASHION meets LEISURE. www.rcfab.net major fashion categories. Contact us now to find out how we can help of our designers to help you at [email protected]. www.garmentdyefabrics.com you #EmpowerFashion. Products and Services: R.C. International Fabrics, Inc. has been La Lame, Inc. inspiring the fashion industry since 1990. We are an importer and Design Knit Inc. (212) 921-9770 converter of domestic knit and woven fabrics carrying novelties and 1636 Staunton Ave. www.lalame.com basic items such as gauze, voile, lawn, , twill, corduroy, , Los Angeles, CA 90021 Products and Services: We at La Lame have captured the attention tencel, chambray, , embroidery, linen, and much more. We have Phone: (213) 742-1234 of a fabulous Italian digital printer and source for very exclusive print solids, yarn dyes, and textures in Stretch and non-stretch. ALL IN Fax: (213) 748-7110 and “FOIL” solids for use in swimwear, sportswear, dresses, and STOCK in Los Angeles with low minimums. We also specialize in PFD www.designknit.com intimate loungewear. Our “Beat Goes On” is the French assortment (Prepared For Garment dye) fabrics and stocking woven fabrics is [email protected] of woven/stretch. This collection is unique in its attraction of yarn- our niche. Visit us at the L.A. Textile show Oct. 2-4, California Market Contact: Shala Tabassi, Pat Tabassi dye fabrics that apply to many apparel lines. Also, we are proud to Center, Booth #907. Products and Services: Design Knit, Inc. is a knit-to-order mill based claim our post-surgical fabrics with great compression and recovery in Los Angeles specializing in the development and production of high- are performing very well with leading medical garments, some with quality, sheer to heavyweight knit fabrics for contemporary, athleisure, copper yarn that enhances their performance. We are now linked with Robert Kaufman Fabrics sportswear, and loungewear markets. The collection includes but is a major knitting and finishing company in the USA that is the source 129 West 132nd St. not limited to: Supima Cotton, TENCEL™ Lyocell, TENCEL™ Modal, for all apparel companies that must have a MADE IN THE USA label. Los Angeles, CA 90061 Organic Cotton, ECOLIFE ®, cashmere blends, linen blends, rayon, We also supply beautiful lace fabrics from the finest mills in Europe. (800) 877-2066 mélange, triblends, etc. Fashion-forward athleisure collection. Cut- Sustainable Fabric Options Available Visit the new La Lame showrooms Fax: (310) 538-9235 and-sew sweater knits. at 215 W. 40th St. in New York by calling Glen Schneer @212-921- www.robertkaufman.com Now introducing STUDIO DK, the fabric source for your growing brand. 9770. www.lalame.com [email protected] Lower minimums and some stock items available. Products and Services: Robert Kaufman Co., Inc. is an importer and converter with national and international representation, stocking a Pontex SPA wide variety of printed, yarn-dyed, and solid wovens and knits as well DG Expo Fabric & Trim Show [email protected] as denims. In business for over 70 years, Robert Kaufman Fabrics has www.dgexpo.net [email protected] been delivering the highest-quality service to manufacturing clients Products and Services: DG Expo Fabric & Trim Show is a two-day www.pontexspa.it in the U.S. and around the world in a variety of markets, including show featuring American and European companies with low minimums Products and Services: For fall and winter collections, Pontex SPA childrenswear, womenswear, contemporary, juniors, men’s sports- and many with in-stock programs. DG Expo focuses on the needs of skillfully weaves together of cotton and silk into finished fabrics wear, maternity, uniforms, special occasion, accessories, and home designers, manufacturers (producing apparel, accessories, home fur- with soft and warm handfeels. For spring and summer, the Modena, fashions. In addition to an extensive catalog of on-trend design collec- nishings, and other sewn products) plus private-label retailers, fabric Italy–based company produces extreme light weights and soft hand- tions released every quarter, we offer domestic in-stock programs with stores, and event/party planners. Our next show is the New York Fabric feels from cotton and silk, textured chiffons and . Clients low minimums as well as customized fabric design, development, and This listing is provided as a free service to our Show, July 22–23, at The Hudson Mercantile, followed by the Chicago from around the world use Pontex fabrics in everything from dresses, sourcing for prints, yarn-dyes, and solids. All fabrics are available for advertisers. We regret that we cannot be responsible Fabric Show, Aug. 27–28, at the Palmer House Hilton. loungewear, shirting, pants and jackets. Visit us at: LA Textile 10/2-4. sampling. We also drop ship for customers with off-shore production for any errors or omissions within the Resource Guide. needs. Robert Kaufman Fabrics sells wholesale and to the trade only.

Textile Directory

• Bennet Silks, (323) 376-9615, www.johnchristophertextiles.com Apparel News Group • Bossa, (949) 247-6005, www.bossa.com.tr • Chaintex Ltd.–BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com • Charming Textile Co., Ltd./BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com • Cinergy Textiles, Inc., (213) 748-4400, www.cinergytextiles.com 741945-2019 • City Textile Inc., (213) 744-0476, www.mycitytextile.com Seventy-four years of news, • Confetti Fabrics, +90 (224) 243 11 36, www.confettitextile.com fashion and information • CS Textile Korea Co., Ltd./BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com • DJ Fabric Mill Inc./BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com • EBI Fabrics Corporation, (213) 765-0900, www.ebifabrics.com CEO/PUBLISHER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE PUBLISHED BY TERRY MARTINEZ LYNNE KASCH TLM PUBLISHING INC. • Eclat Textile Co., Ltd., (626) 961-9889, eclatusa.com BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT APPAREL NEWS GROUP • Fabric Selection Inc., (213) 747-6297, www.fabricselection.com MOLLY RHODES Publishers of: MANAGING EDITOR • FCN Textiles, (323) 376-9615, www.johnchristophertextiles.com SALES & MARKETING ASSISTANT/ California Apparel News DOROTHY CROUCH RECEPTIONIST Waterwear • GTC-LA, (213) 747-1435, www.gtc-world.com Decorated • Hangzhou Meho Textiles Co., Ltd./BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com RETAIL EDITOR CHLOË HULETT ANDREW ASCH • Hope Star Overseas Ltd./BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS EXECUTIVE OFFICE CONTRIBUTORS ASHLEY KOHUT California Market Center • Jean Bracq, (818) 789-0146, www.jeanbracq.com TIM REGAS CHRIS MARTIN 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 • La Lame Inc., (212) 921-9770, www.lalame.com NICOLE MARTINEZ RACHEL MARTINEZ Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 JOHN MCCURRY • Orta Anadolu, +90 (212) 315 32 00, www.ortaanadolu.com SALES ASSISTANT (213) 627-3737 NATALIE ZFAT www.apparelnews.net • Pontex SPA, +39.059356252, www.pontexspa.it VOLKER CORRELL PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY [email protected] • RC International Fabrics Inc., (213) 200-4957, www.rcfab.net JOHN ECKMIER CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE CHRIS MARTIN JEFFERY YOUNGER • Robert Kaufman Fabrics, (800) 877-2066, www.robertkaufman.com NICK VERREOS • Solid Stone Fabrics, (276) 634-0115, www.solidstonefabrics.com PRODUCTION MANAGER PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. WEB PRODUCTION KENDALL IN • Solstiss, (213) 688-9797, www.solstiss.com MORGAN WESSLER • Spirit Lace Enterprise, (213) 689-1999, www.spiritlace.com PRODUCTION ARTIST CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR VICTORIA KRAWIEC • Studio 93, (213) 277-9988, www.studio93.info LOUISE DAMBERG FINANCE • Suzhou Minghe Textile Material Co., Ltd./BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING DAVID MARTINEZ • Texollini, (310) 537-3400, www.texollini.com TERRY MARTINEZ • Tiss et Teint, (323) 376-9615, www.johnchristophertextiles.com SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE • Trimax International/BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com AMY VALENCIA • United Fabrics International Inc., (213) 749-8200, www.unitedfabrics.com • Z.Y. Tex/BFF Studio, (718) 666-6744, www.bffabrics.com

J CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS / TEXTILE PREVIEW AND RESOURCE GUIDE SEPTEMBER 20–26, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

CAN14-tex-dir-advert.indd 10 9/19/19 7:47 PM FINDINGS & TRIMMINGS AS YOUR BRAND EVOLVES

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1. Trim Networks Inc. 7. EJ Creations 2. Kagan Trim Center 8. Junior Hagen Ltd. 3. ITL Group (Intelligent Label Solutions) 9. Talon International Inc. PROGRESSIVE 4. EJ Creations 10. Huntington Packaging Inc. 5. Huntington Packaging Inc. 11. Trim Networks Inc. 6. Trim Networks Inc. 12. ITL Group (Intelligent Label Solutions) WWW.PROGRESSIVELABEL.COM (323) 415-9770 1 2 LOS ANGELES • MEXICO • HONG KONG

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1. ITL Group (Intelligent Label Solutions) 8. Spirit Lace Enterprise 2. Trim Networks Inc. 9. EJ Creations 3. 3A Products of America 10. Spirit Lace Enterprise 4. EJ Creations 11. ITL Group (Intelligent Label Solutions) 5. Kagan Trim Center 12. Kagan Trim Center 6. 3A Products of America 13. Junior Hagen Ltd. 7. ITL Group (Intelligent Label Solutions)

Trim Directory • 3A Products of America, (213) 749-0103, www.us3a.com • EJ Creations, (201) 483-8322, ejcreations.net • Huntington Packaging Inc., (213) 612-4458, www.huntingtonpkg.net • ITL Group (Intelligent Label Solutions), (646) 668-3392, itl-group.com • Junior Hagen Ltd., +44 20 8965 0707, www.junior-hagen.com • Kagan Trim Center, (323)-583-1400, www.kagantrim.com • Spirit Lace Enterprise, (213) 689-1999, www.spiritlace.com • Talon International Inc., (818)-444-4108, taloninternational.com • Trim Networks Inc., (213) 688-8550, www.trimnetworks.com

APPARELNEWS.NET SEPTEMBER 20–26, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS / TEXTILE PREVIEW AND RESOURCE GUIDE K

CAN15-TAB.indd 11 9/19/19 7:49 PM dk.indd 1 9/18/19 6:47 PM TECHNOLOGY Kornit Digital Takes Its Direct to Garment Show on the Road

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Calif. “Others say that that their machines don’t need a pretreatment. ornit Digital’s Presto S printer is about But they don’t hold up as well for as big as a limousine and can function as wash fastness and crocking.” a mini T-shirt factory, said Robert och, A statement from Kornit a global content manager for the printer contends that only one person is company, headquartered in Englewood, N.J. needed to operate the Presto S och and other Kornit staff gave people machine. The operator basically in the American imprinted-textiles business loads fabric into the machine, where a first look at the Presto S during the Kornit’s Robusto inks are bonded to company’s Road Show. The Presto S was the fabric before it passes through a officially introduced in June at the TMA dryer and becomes ready to cut. trade show in Barcelona. Kornit’s Businesses using one direct- traveling printer showroom made its first stop to-garment system often upgrade in Los Angeles Sept. 11–13 at the ptimist to larger systems, och said. The Studios production space near Los Angeles Presto S is intended to be used by Demonstration of Avalanche Poly Pro DTG Demonstration of Presto S Printer nternational Airport. companies interested in diversifying The Road Show was the first time that their customized business through the Presto S was displayed in North America material. To operate the other machines Nanino said. “It doesn’t make sense to pass a process that allows them to print and cut outside of Kornit’s New Jersey offices, exhibited, the devices basically print on a off half finished inventory to someone else. garments roll to roll. och declined to state and it also gave a stage to other machines finished T-shirt blank, jean or onesie. You’ve got to produce from start to finish.” the cost of the Presto S. He said that it was that Kornit released this year, such as the The Presto S and other machines were Like many others in the space, Nanino uses competitive with other roll-to-roll print Avalanche Poly Pro DTG printer. The Road designed to serve the growing on-demand several machines to pretreat, print and heat- systems on the market. Show also gave space to the Kornit Storm printing and direct-to-garment printing press shirts. och also said that the Presto S is an HD6, which was released in 201 . businesses, which are fueled by the market och said that the Presto S is a roll-to- environmentally sustainable machine. The Poly Pro printer was introduced in for customized goods and are building roll printer that uses specialized inks to print Its Robusto inks meet the standards of April and is used for poly-blend materials more of a significant presence in the T-shirt directly onto a roll of fabric, using what och sustainability certification groups Eco typically found in sports apparel and business. These companies range from called a fast, single-step method. For this Passport and TS, according to a Kornit athleisure clothing. While the Poly Pro garage operations to established businesses system, it can take less than 60 seconds to statement. och also said that the machine was designed to print graphics on polyester that produce limited runs of T-shirts. imprint a garment, then just a few minutes creates no water waste, and there are no fabrics, the Storm HD6 was designed to print Steve Nanino of Los Angeles– to cure—or dry—it. The fabric is moved on chemicals to dispose of after a job is done. on T-shirts, cloth for bags, denim and almost headquartered apparel brand id Dangerous an adhesive belt conveyor system, and the Also participating in Kornit’s Road Show any other fabric, och explained. maintains a focus on the on-demand printing machine is able to print about , 00 square were brands that use Kornit such as Cotton “The Storm HD6 is our workhorse for and direct-to-garment printing business. He feet of fabric during an hour. Heritage, headquartered in Commerce, direct-to-garment printing on demand, said it is increasingly the industry norm for “It’s very unique. It’s the only machine Calif. All of the cotton and cotton poly tees sustainably and with minimal setup,” och direct-to-garment printers to take care of that makes pigments that do not need used for demonstrations in the Los Angeles said. “It’s perfect for e-commerce.” When every step of production for themselves. a pretreatment,” said Michael Sanders, stop for the Road Show were Cotton Heritage using the Presto, a machine operator prints “You essentially have to be a one-stop director of printable textiles and finishing styles, said Ken White, the apparel brand’s whole fabric, then cuts and sews from that shop to be in the digital-printing space,” technologies at Top alue abric of Carson, vice president of sales. ●

APPARELNEWS.NET SEPTEMBER 20–26, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 17

CAN17-KORNIT.indd 17 9/19/19 7:51 PM RETAIL

Retail Real Estate Continued from page 1

Allison Samek, center, and Tony Sekora, right

36 million square feet of retail space in the Greater Los densely packed urban areas, said Derrick Moore, a senior vice Angeles, Orange County and Inland Empire regions of president at CBRE, who led a panel discussion on “How to Southern California. They increased their total leasing activity Negotiate Successful Leases.” ICSC show floor from 7.1 percent of leased commercial properties in 2009 to Putting together a deal is tougher than in the past, and 23.6 percent of leased commercial properties in 2019, with 35 tenants are looking for different amenities, Moore explained. percent of total square feet occupied by the fashion category, “The deal cycle is longer,” Moore said. “Deals are costing She also said that the shop’s stores planned to increase which includes beauty and wellness. more for landlords. Tenants are requesting additional location- events produced at its local stores, such as its flagship in West Despite changes in the retail market, developers are more improvement dollars. They are also preferring to move into Hollywood, Calif., and a shop in Malibu, Calif., which also optimistic about opportunities in their field than in the recent second-generation spaces.” These spaces have been improved opened in March. past, according to a survey of developer sentiment performed by former tenants, allowing new tenants to forego financing Sekora said that a full-service Nordstrom department store by the UCLA Anderson School of Management in May. renovations when they move in. in New York’s Columbus Circle and a Nordstrom Local The market for industrial warehouses is booming across As retail real estate is changing, new commercial location in the West Village will open in October following California, according to the survey, as is growth in the developments are also on the horizon. On Sept. 17, major the opening of a Nordstrom Local store that was unveiled on office-space market. An increase of office-anchored jobs is tenants were announced for the upcoming Hollywood Park the Upper East Side earlier this month. The Nordstrom Local forecasted for the San Francisco Bay area, which will fuel development in Inglewood, Calif. Cinépolis Cinemas concept made a splash when it was introduced in October demand for new office space in that region and Southern will open a 12-screen movie house at the 300-acre mixed- 2017, but the spaces stock no inventory at the stores. California. use development, which will be anchored by a stadium the Sekora said that shoppers visiting Nordstrom Local— Los Angeles Rams and two of which are located in Los Angeles’ downtown and Los Angeles Chargers Brentwood sections—don’t go there to hang out. Rather, they football teams will call visit for a talk with one of the shop’s stylists and also to make home. returns of garments that they purchased at Nordstrom.com or Working on the project through other Nordstrom channels. is Andrew Turf, a CBRE Quick returns help maintain the value of a garment when senior vice president who a retailer puts it back on the market, Sekora said. Long served on a presentation delays between a return and shipping a garment back to the panel covering Hollywood store typically result in a decrease in value. “Speed is at the Park during the ICSC forefront of what we created,” he said. conference. He said that The ICSC event also included panels on the cannabis the development’s retail business, coworking spaces, wellness studios and district will open in 2021, nontraditional, experiential retail. While traditional retail and fashion will be a part remains a serious player, new trends and tenants are reshaping of the center. retail streets and malls, said Chuck Dembo, a partner in the “We’re building Beverly Hills, Calif.–headquartered Dembo Realty. an authentic, soulful “More-established brands are not doing much,” Dembo community for Los said. “The question is, ‘Who, if anybody, is expanding?’ It’s Angelenos and the city not a lot of people, at least in the better markets.” of Inglewood,” he said. Nontraditional tenants are part of a new wave of growth The retail market is not forecasted to grow as quickly, but “We’re trying to program it like a streetscape, not a mall.” charted in a research note released by the commercial-real- developers were more optimistic than they have been in the During ICSC, there were also discussions surrounding a estate and advisory firm CBRE. Released in August, the recent past, according to the survey. “[They] will see some 20 percent increase in coworking spaces at retail properties research showed an increasing amount of retail real estate improvement, and there will be more opportunities than at through 2023. Speaking on a panel was Dori Howard, co– leased to companies that were described as focused on an present,” the survey said. chief executive officer of The Jane Club, which opened a industry that is included within the “5 Fs”—Fun, Furniture, Developers interviewed for the survey revealed there will flagship in Los Angeles’ Larchmont Village section in April. Fitness, Food and Fashion. be more opportunities for retail resulting from gentrification The space offers child-care classes and workout classes along “Expanding 5-F retailers have found new opportunities in and the increasing density of urban areas. More opportunity with conference rooms and office space. spaces left behind by big-box chains,” the note said. will arise to lease commercial space from mixed-use “These are community spaces,” Howard said of The Jane According to the research, this class of tenant had leased developments, which include office, retail and dining in Club. “One of our core values is that we honor all work.” ●

Salesforce Continues to Streamline Brand-Retail Relationships With New CRM

To streamline in-store merchandising and marketing, the of consumer goods are sold in bricks-and-mortar stores, they might be getting point-of-sale data from all the different San Francisco–based customer relationship–management 52 percent of these leaders that merchandising-and- stores they sell through. In some cases, there might be other technology company Salesforce introduced its Consumer marketing plans weren’t followed. demand signals, but all of that data needs to get adjusted and Goods Cloud as a tool to help brands work more efficiently “The Consumer Goods Cloud is our foray into building be cobbled together to prioritize who needs to go where to with retail partners. Salesforce worked on developing the a product very specific to the industry for consumer goods,” have the maximum impact on business and maximize sales.” solution to also incorporate Einstein AI. Rao said. “We have had consumer-goods customers for Through digitizing a representative’s task list in real time The Consumer Goods Cloud blends Salesforce’s the last two decades, and we’ve been using the platform in for every store visit, brands are able to work with each retailer capabilities of marketing, service, commerce and sales a multitude of ways. What we’re doing with this strategy is according to that location’s particular needs. Rao explained products to help field sales representatives and merchandisers we’re really making it out of the box and directly fitted to that through connections between planning and execution work with retailers on-site to align their missions. each use case in the industry.” systems, companies can bypass unnecessary steps, thereby “Think about planogram compliance,” said Sunil Rao, Through technology that allows brands and their parent streamlining these processes. global head of consumer goods at Salesforce. “When you’re companies to monitor in-store activity in real time, the “When someone is merchandising in-store and they have in a store, instead of taking notes on all the SKUs that you’re Consumer Goods Cloud collects data, analyzes the information an issue setting up a display or setting up something because seeing, you take a photo and the image-recognition technology and yields a plan of action for representatives who visit retail they have the same system [as other retailers], they’re able to that we have will identify all the SKUs that are on the shelf partners. Citing the need for companies to prioritize where communicate that back to the planners,” he said. “They [the and it will give you all the KPIs and it will tell you if all the and how their representatives should spend their time, Rao planners] can fix the instructions or the issue before it comes things are in compliance or the things you should fix because noted that the data Salesforce works with could be sourced back in the form of lost sales.” the store is supposed to look a certain way.” from different areas specific to each company’s focus. The Consumer Goods Cloud will be available Oct. 15, and After surveying 500 global consumer-goods professionals “To optimize distribution, they need to identify the leading Einstein Analytics for Consumer Goods will be available in in spring 2019, Salesforce discovered that, while 95 percent indicators on data they are getting,” he said. “In some cases, February 2020.—Dorothy Crouch

18 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS SEPTEMBER 20–26, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

CAN01,04,18-COVER.indd 18 9/19/19 7:24 PM CLASSIFIEDS

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