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Home , 79th Street Boat Basin, Algonquin Hotel, A Place to Sit, Duplex Cabaret Theatre, Gramercy Park Hotel, Oak Room (Plaza Hotel)

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Chapter 15 Hitting the Clubs and Bars

In This Chapter Listening to the Laughing it up at the comedy clubs Quenching your thirst at the hottest bars Tripping the light fantastic at dance clubs

he so-called serious cultural entertainment is covered in Chapter T14, so in this chapter, I dig into the less serious, but just as enter- taining, entertainment options in City. Whether it’s live jazz, rock, comedy, or cabaret; or if it’s sweating on a dance floor, sipping a martini while lounging on a plush lounge couch, or just people- watching in a neighborhood pub, New York has plenty of choices for your evening’s entertainment.

To find out what’s happening and where, check out these print and online sources. , www.villagevoice.com, is a weekly free newspaper that has a very good calendar with listings of weekly entertainment. Rivaling the Voice in its listings is the weekly magazine, Time Out New York, www.timeoutny.com. A good source for information about bars and clubs is the annual book, Shecky’s New York Bar, Club, & Lounge Guide. The Web site at www.sheckys.com is more current than the book, as is Shecky’s Bar Phone at % 212-777- BARS or 212-777-2277, which offers up-to-the minute nightlife news.

It’s About the Music FromCOPYRIGHTED punky bands at holes-in-the-wall MATERIALwith no cover charge to the world’s greatest musicians in the new venue Jazz at Lincoln Center, you can find something for every taste every night of the week in New York. All that jazz People come from all over the world to experience jazz in New York at any of the city’s many celebrated clubs. No matter when you come, you’re guaranteed to find top talent playing at a city venue. The best of New York’s jazz clubs include: 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 269

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Birdland, 315 West 44th St., between Eighth and Ninth avenues (% 212-581-3080; www.birdlandjazz.com).This legendary club is one of the city’s premier jazz spots. The big room is spacious, comfy, and classy, with an excellent sound system and top-notch talent roster any night of the week. Expect lots of accomplished big bands and jazz trios, but you can’t go wrong with the regular Sunday night show, starring Chico O’Farrell’s smokin’ Afro-Cuban Jazz Big Band. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Blue Note, 131 W. 3rd St., at (% 212-475-8592; www. bluenote.net). This institution attracts some of jazz’s biggest names. Lately the club has veered away from the harder edge in favor of the popular smooth jazz. Prices can be astronomical here. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Jazz Standard, 116 E. 27th St., between South and (% 212-576-2232; www.jazzstandard.net). With 150 tables, the Standard is one of New York’s largest jazz clubs. But its size does not detract from the quality of the sound. Here you can hear straightforward, mainstream jazz by new and established musicians. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Lenox Lounge, 288 Malcolm X Blvd., Lenox Avenue between 124th and 125th streets (% 212-427-0253). The club’s history includes past performances by such artists as Billie Holliday and Dinah Washington. Now, at this beautifully restored club, you just may hear the next Billie or Dinah. (See the “Harlem & Upper ” map on p. 189.) Smoke, 2751 , between 105th and 106th streets (% 212- 864-6662; www.smokejazz.com). This intimate club is a welcome throwback to the informal clubs of the past. On weekends, covers never exceed $20, and the music is free Sunday through Thursday. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.) The Village Vanguard, 178 Seventh Ave. South (% 212-255-4037; www.villagevanguard.net). The Vanguard, established in 1935, is a New York legend. All the greats, from Miles to Monk, have played here, and their spirits live on in the new, high-quality talent of fre- quent performers like Roy Hargrove and Bill Charlap. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) It’s only rock and roll In New York, you truly can rock and roll all night (KISS is from , after all).

Arlene Grocery, 95 Stanton St., between Ludlow and Orchard streets (% 212-358-1633; www.arlene-grocery.com). This funky little club has become a big name in the intimate rock club scene. With covers that rarely peak beyond $7, it’s a bar- gain as well. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 270

270 Part V: Living It Up After Dark: Nightlife

Bowery Ballroom, 6 Delancey St., at Bowery (% 212-533-2111; www.boweryballroom.com). There’s plenty of room in this club, but it still has the feel of a more intimate venue. With great sight- lines and sound quality, the Bowery Ballroom attracts excellent alt-rock talent. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) CBGB, 315 Bowery, at Bleeker Street (% 212-982-4052; www.cbgb. com). The launching pad for New York punk and New Wave, this gritty, grungy club is now a living shrine to the Ramones, who made their name here. (The corner of 2nd Street and the Bowery was officially renamed “Joey Ramone Place” in 2003.) It’s still a big draw, so come early if you actually want to soak up any of the per- formers’ sweat. Two more laid-back performance spaces — CB’s Lounge and 313 Gallery — sit next door, where the music offered ranges from acoustic to freeform jazz. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Irving Plaza, 17 Irving Place, at 15th Street (% 212-777-1224; www. irvingplaza.com). Perhaps the biggest name in New York’s rock club scene, this mid-sized music hall is a prime stop for national- name rock bands. The best seats can be found in the upstairs balcony but come early for a spot. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Mercury Lounge, 217 E. Houston St., at Essex Street and Avenue A (% 212-260-4700; www.mercuryloungenyc.com). Another excel- lent intimate spot for good quality, hard-edged rock and roll, and it doesn’t cost a fortune. As a result, the Merc is always packed. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) The best of the rest What follows are clubs that are tough to classify; on one night they may feature jazz or blues, and on another night you could hear cutting-edge rock or world music.

B.B King Blues Club & Grill, 237 W. 42nd St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues (% 212-997-4144; www.bbkingblues.com). Despite its name, B.B. King’s rarely sticks to the blues. Here you can find big-name talent from pop, funk, soul, and rock more from the past than from the present. On Sunday, a gospel lunch is served. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Fez Under Time Cafe, 380 Lafayette St., at Great Jones Street. (% 212-533-2680; www.feznyc.com). Although the club’s most popular attraction is the Mingus Big Band jazz band on Thursday nights, the rest of the week brings an eclectic live music-and- performance art mix. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) The Knitting Factory, 74 Leonard St., between Broadway and Church Street (% 212-219-3055; www.knittingfactory.com). At New York’s premier avant-garde music venue, in the four separate spaces within the Knitting Factory, you may hear performances 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 271

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ranging from experimental jazz to acoustic folk to spoken-work to poetry readings. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Satalla, 37 W. 26th St., between Sixth Avenue and Broadway (% 212- 576-1155; www.satalla.com). With performances in Flamenco, Klezmer, Celtic, Middle-Eastern Jazz, and Afro-Cuban to name just a handful, the diversity of music that can be heard on any given night in Satalla is staggering. The room is cozy and most nights you can get in with no admission charge. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Tonic, 107 Norfolk St., between Rivington and Delancy streets (% 212-358-7501; www.tonicnyc.com). The Tonic, which features alternative jazz and rock, may not be for everyone, but if you like your music challenging and in an intimate setting, this Tonic is for you. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Life is a cabaret Want the quintessential New York night-on-the-town experience? Take in a cabaret. But be prepared to part with your greenbacks; covers can range from $10 to $60 along with a two-drink or dinner check minimum. Always reserve ahead. New York’s top cabarets include:

Cafe Carlyle, at the Carlyle , 781 Madison Ave., at 76th Street (% 212-744-1600). This is the room the great Bobby Short made famous. Bobby Short, who has long presided over the room, announced and then rescinded his retirement, but if you want to see him, you’d better head to the Carlyle sooner rather than later. When Short isn’t there, you still get the top performers on the cabaret scene. And at prices that range from $65 to $75 per person with a $30 per-person minimum, top quality is what you certainly should get. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Feinstein’s at the Regency, at the Regency Hotel, 540 Park Ave., at 61st Street (% 212-339-4095; www.feinsteinsattheregency. com). If you don’t catch song impressario Michael Feinstein playing here at the club he opened, don’t despair — high-wattage talent is always on tap. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.) The , at the , 59 W. 44th St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues (% 212-840-6800). The Oak Room is one of the city’s most elegant and sophisticated spots for cabaret and that’s saying a lot. You can almost always be sure that top-rated talent is headlining here. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)

New York Comedy is No Joke Something about New York makes it a ripe breeding ground for comedi- ans. The names of those who got their start here, from Dangerfield to 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 272

272 Part V: Living It Up After Dark: New York City Nightlife

Seinfeld, are like a who’s who of comedy. And you never know, the neb- bishy guy or girl up at the mike just may be the next or Ellen DeGeneres. New York’s top comedy clubs include:

Carolines on Broadway, 1626 Broadway, between 49th and 50th streets (% 212-757-4100; www.carolines.com). New York’s biggest and highest-profile comedy club attracts the hottest head- liners. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Comedy Cellar, 117 Macdougal St., between Bleecker and W. 3rd streets (% 212-254-3480; www.comedycellar.com). This intimate, subterranean comedy club is a throwback to the days of the raw, hard-edged stand-up comedy that spawned Lenny Bruce and Richard Pryor. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Dangerfield’s, 1118 First Ave., between 61st and 62nd streets (% 212-593-1650; www.dangerfieldscomedyclub.com). If Tony Soprano were a comedy fan, this would be his kind of place. Slick, mature, and Vegas-like, Dangerfield’s gets plenty of respect. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Gotham Comedy Club, 34 W. 22nd St., between Fifth and Sixth avenues (% 212-367-9000; www.gothamcomedyclub.com). This is New York’s trendiest comedy club of the moment. Look for theme nights like “Comedy Salsa” and “A Very Jewish Christmas.” Tuesday nights feature new talent. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)

Hanging Out in New York’s Best Bars You won’t have to search far to find a place to sit and have a cocktail in New York. There are bars on every block, sometimes two or three to a block. And they come in just about every variety from sleek and hip to dark and gritty. Check out this small sampling of some of my favorite New York bars. For the scene , 417 Lafayette St., between 4th Avenue and Astor Place (% 212-353-2992). This African-safari themed restaurant/bar serves original cocktails, but the drinks are secondary to the scene. Models, model wannabes, and those who can afford the very expensive drinks served here prowl the room. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Nocturne, 144 Bleecker St., between La Guardia Place and Thompson Street (% 212-979-8434). Expect to see lots of posing at this elegant beautiful-people hangout where a bottle of Absolut Vodka costs $250. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Monkey Bar, at the Hotel Elysée, 60 E. 54th St., between Madison and Park avenues (% 212-838-2600). This swanky space is dolled 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 273

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up like a Hollywood supper club circa the 1930s. The drinks are faultless, and the legendary monkey murals are worth a look alone. Skip the dining room and head directly to the piano bar for the ultimate Monkey Bar experience. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) For creative cocktails Bemelmans Bar, in the , 35 E. 76th St., at (% 212-744-1600). The cocktails created by mixologist and self-proclaimed cocktail geek Audrey Sanders are amazing. Also, the bar is a beauty with its whimsical murals painted by children’s book illustrator, Ludwig Bemelmans, who created the Madeline books. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Double Happiness, 173 Mott St., between Grand and Broome Streets (% 212-941-1282). The only indicator to the subterranean entrance of this Chinatown hideaway is a vertical WATCH YOUR STEP sign. Once through the door, you find a beautifully designed speakeasy-ish lounge. You’re going to be doubly happy if you try the green tea martini, an inspired house creation. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Pravda, 281 Lafayette St., between Houston and Prince streets (% 212-334-5015). You can find more than 70 vodkas here from 18 countries. They also offer eight specialty martinis. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) King Cole Bar, in the St. Regis Hotel, 2 E. 55th St., at (% 212-744-4300). The supposed birthplace of the Bloody Mary, they continue to make a very mean and tasty one here. If you aren’t interested in a Bloody Mary, order something else. You really can’t go wrong. Don’t forget to admire the very famous Maxfield Parish mural above the bar. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)

In 2003, smoke and smoking was made illegal in all restaurants and bars in New York City (except for a few cigar bars). So if you get the urge, join the huddled (and shivering, in the winter) masses outside the bar, in what some not-so-fondly call the “Bloomberg Lounge” (after Mayor Mike, who pushed through the anti-smoking laws). For old-world charm White Horse Tavern, 567 Hudson St., at 11th Street (% 212-243- 9260). This circa 1880 pub is where Dylan Thomas supposedly had his very last drink before becoming a bar legend. (See the “Down-town Arts & Nightlife” map.) Pete’s Tavern, 129 E. 18th St., at Irving Place (% 212-473-7676). This place is so old it is said to have opened when Lincoln was still president. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 274

274 Part V: Living It Up After Dark: New York City Nightlife Downtown Arts & Nightlife Union W. 15th St. E. 15th M Square W. 14th St. M M M W. 14th St. E. 14th St M M W. 13th St. E. 13th St Broadway Little W. 12th Greenwich Ave. Fourth Ave. . Second Ave. St. W. 12th St. First Ave.

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276 Part V: Living It Up After Dark: New York City Nightlife Midtown Arts & Nightlife

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Fifth Ave. Sixth Ave. (Ave. of the Ame the of (Ave. Ave. Sixth E. 13th St. 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 278

278 Part V: Living It Up After Dark: New York City Nightlife Uptown Arts & Nightlife

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E. 106th St. 0 1/4 mi E. 105th St. N 0 0.25 km E. 104th St.

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East River ROOSEVELT ISLAND T E. 65th St. ransverse Central E. 64th St. Park Zoo M E. 63rd St. Wollman 7 Rink 5 E. 62nd St. 6 E. 61st St. Level From Lower RRooseveltoosevelt IslandIsland TramTram M E. 60th St. M Central Park South M E. 59th St. To QQueensboroughueensborough Brridgeidge Pl. Level Sutton Upper 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 280

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The Old Town Bar & Grill, 45 E. 18th St., between Broadway and Park Avenue (% 212-529-6732). The bar where food is shuttled to customers via a dumb waiter from the basement kitchen has been featured on film (The Devil’s Own) and TV (the opening credits of Letterman in his NBC days). (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Ear Inn, 326 Spring St., between Greenwich and Washington streets (% 212-226-9060). This cluttered old, 1870-established pub is a cranky relief in super-chic Soho. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Dublin House, 225 W. 79th St., between Broadway and Amsterdam Avenue (% 212-874-9528). For years, like a welcoming beacon, the Dublin House’s neon harp has blinked invitingly. This very old pub is a no-frills Irish saloon and the perfect spot for a drink after visit- ing the nearby Museum of Natural History or Central Park. The Guinness is cheap and drawn perfectly by the very able and some- times crusty bartenders. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.) For dive bar aficionados Jimmy’s Corner, 140 W. 44th St., between Broadway and Sixth Avenue (% 212-221-9510). Jimmy’s is a tough guy’s joint that has happily survived the Disneyfication of . Beer is cheap and drinks aren’t fancy, so skip the theme bars and restaurants in the area and go for an after-theater pop at Jimmy’s instead. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Subway Inn, 143 E. 60th St., at Lexington Avenue (% 212-223-9829). This is my all-time favorite dive and has been around for more than 60 years. No matter what time of day, it’s always dark as midnight inside the Subway Inn. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) For drinks with a view Rise Bar, at the Ritz-Carlton New York, Battery Park, 2 West St. (% 212-344-0800). On the hotel’s 14th floor, the bar boasts incom- parable views of Lady Liberty and busy New York Harbor. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Pen-Top Bar, at the Peninsula Hotel, 700 Fifth Ave., at (% 212-956-2888). The views of are awesome here and make the steep price of the drinks easier to take. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) 79th Street Boat Basin Cafe, 79th St., at the Hudson River (% 212- 496-5542). As you sip your cocktail, enjoy a beautiful sunset and watch boats bob on the river; you may just forget you’re in New York for a moment. Open from May through September. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.) High Bar, 2 Lexington Ave., at 21st Street (% 212-475-4320). This bar is located on the rooftop of the legendary , 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 281

Chapter 15: Hitting the Clubs and Bars 281

just opposite pristine and exclusive Gramercy Park. The scene at the High Bar, where the views of the Met Life Building, Gramercy Park, and the Empire State Building are gorgeous, has gotten so hot that they actually installed outdoor heaters to extend drinking alfresco into the cooler months. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) For gay & lesbian nightlife Barracuda, 275 W. 22nd St., between Seventh and Eighth avenues (% 212-645-8613). Located in the heart of gay Chelsea, this bar is regularly voted best in New York by the various local GLBT publications. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Boiler Room, 86 E. 4th St., between First and Second avenues (% 212-254-7536). This is New York’s favorite gay dive bar and a fun East Village hangout. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Duplex Cabaret, 61 Christopher St., at Seventh Avenue (% 212- 255-5438; www.theduplex.com). High camp is the norm at this gay cabaret and piano-bar, still going after 50 years. It once hosted the likes of and in their early stand-up careers. (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Henrietta Hudson, 444 Hudson St., at Morton Street (% 212-924- 3347; www.henriettahudsons.com). This popular lesbian hangout has a great jukebox and a deejay on weekends. (Expect a $5 to $7 cover charge.) (See the “Downtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)

Some of the hottest “clubs” are actually traveling parties that alight in various spots depending on the day, making them hard for visitors to find. Various publications — Time Out New York’s Gay & Lesbian section, as well as the GLBT–specific Homo Xtra, GONYC magazine, and others I list in Chapter 6 — provide the best up-to-the-minute club information. Another good source is the Web; try the gay NYC site at www.gay center.org.

Hitting the Dance Clubs and Getting Across the Velvet Rope Dance club fame is transient; one year a club can be white hot, but the next year it’s not even hip enough for the Bridge and Tunnel crowd. These dance clubs, as of this writing, are closer to the hot, hot, hot variety.

Avalon, 660 Sixth Ave., at 20th Street (% 212-807-7780; www.ny avalon.com). The old dance club, the Limelight, once reigned supreme at this location during the decadent 80s; now Avalon has moved into this large, former church with its many “private” rooms. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Crobar, 530 W. 28th St., between 10th and 11th avenues (% 212- 629-9000; www.crobar.com). This 25,000-square-foot club can fit 20_569457 Ch15.qxd 9/30/04 10:12 AM Page 282

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up to 3,000 people, so the odds of you getting in are very good. Once inside, top-name deejays have you sweating in no time. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Decade, 1117 First Ave., at 61st Street (% 212-835-5979). Here you find a rare dance club where no matter your age, you won’t feel old. The vibe is upscale, and the music is mostly from the 70s, 80s, and 90s. (See the “Uptown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Spirit, 530 W. 27th St., between 10th and 11th avenues (% 212-268- 9477; www.spiritnewyork.com). This New Age dance emporium features a healing center and organic vegetarian restaurant, along with a 10,000-square-foot dance floor. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.) Swing 46, 349 W. 46th St., between Eighth and Ninth avenues (% 212-262-9554; www.swing46.com). As its name suggests, the music here, mostly live, is swing. And if swing dancing is new to you, free lessons are offered Wednesday through Saturday. (See the “Midtown Arts & Nightlife” map.)

New York nightlife starts late and finishes really late. Things don’t start happening until at least 11 p.m. Most places don’t take credit cards, so bring cash (or be prepared to fork over a high transaction charge at an in-house ATM). Cover charges can range from $7 to $30 and often increase as the night goes on. The best source for club information is the weekly Time Out New York magazine. It lists cover charges for the week’s big events and gives sound advice on the type of music and the type of crowd each event attracts. (Refer to this chapter’s introduction for additional sources of entertainment information.)

If you’re somewhat masochistic, enjoy humiliation and ridicule, and are determined to get into that oh-so-trendy club you heard about back home, keep these pointers in mind to help you get beyond the velvet rope.

Be polite. Dress fashionably. Don’t try to talk your way in. Arrive early (think 9 p.m.), and then be willing to hang out at a mostly empty club until the action heats up.