Vicenza Biking in the great delta From to Venezia Golfo di Padova Venezia a Lido di t Venezia e

n Malamocco e Alberoni i V e

n

a a g Valle di n u Millecampi Pellestrina E u i l l g

C o Laguna di Venezia

a L Venice, one of the greatest masterpieces that humankind has ever produced, the float- ing city, mysterious, steeped in history, unforgettably fascinating - along with the Ca’ Lino Venice lagoon it is the tourist destination par excellence. This journey takes Venice’s Mare public transport network as far as Chioggia, crosses the rivers Brenta and Adige, and Isola di Rosolina Albarella unwinds southwards through the landscape created by the River in its slow progress Porto towards the Adriatic, which gave life to one of the broadest wetland zones of the Eu- Levante ropean Mediterranean: The Po Delta, an ideal roaming ground for the naturalist, the

i u m e environmentalist and the gourmet. It arrives in Ferrara along the ‘Destra Po’ route. F P o o F i u m e P Two cities, both friends and enemies, joined by culture and centuries of history in Berra Ca’ Venier which wars alternated with periods of warm friendship when the dukes of Ferrara were Ro Ariano BOLZANO Ferrarese Ca’ Mello welcomed in San Marco in honour and brotherhood. TRENTO MANTOVA MODENA Francolino Santa 3 Technical notes Goro Giulia Malborghetto di Boara Sacca Depart: Venezia di Goro Ferrara Valle Arrive: Ferrara, Piazza Savonarola APT Venezia: Lido di Volano Ferrara Bertuzzi Length: 216,550 km (from Chioggia 196,550 km) Castello 5050 tel. 041 5298711 Lido delle Nazioni Difficulty level:

Lido degli Scacchi www.turismovenezia.it Marrara o suitable for everyone. Level route mainly Lido di Pomposa c along minor roads. APT Chioggia: Lungomare Adriatico, 101 Porto Garibaldi i

t (Sottomarina) • tel. 041 401068 Lido degli Estensi Railways a www.chioggiatourism.it

i Lido di Spina Venezia/Adria • Adria/Chioggia r Parco Regionale del Delta del Po: Valli di d Bicycle transport available. Comacchio A Please check timetables and availability. tel. 0426 372202 • www.parcodeltapo.org

e Info: 892021 • www.trenitalia.com Parco Delta del Po Emilia-Romagna: r a NB. You can reach Chioggia from Venice either tel. 0533 314003 • www.parcodeltapo.it 1:625.000 M 10 km by direct ferry, or with the vaporetti via Lido di Ferrara: Castello Estense RAVENNA Venezia and Pellestrina. tel. 0532 299303 • www.ferrarainfo.com

14 15 3 From Venezia to Ferrara From Venezia to Ferrara 3

The route leaves from Venice itself, from Venice where we head for Chioggia, either by and its lagoon the direct Venice-Chioggia boat or the vaporetti(boat buses) which would allow Venice is an unending source of marvels you to stop and cycle along the Lido and and admiration just because of the way it Pellestrina (bikes can be carried). Chioggia, is: the city is supported minimally on mil- separated from the sea by the island of lions of wooden posts driven into the sand, Sottomarina, is certainly worth a visit for its crossed by dozens of canals thronged with urban fabric, the vertical lines of piazze and boats and gondolas, woven together by canals intersecting with the horizontal lines narrow alleys, the calli, which are punctu- of the streets; their order and near perfect ated by opening into marvellouss piazze, regularity making a classic fishbone shape. the campi, over whosepavingstoness moved grand personages and the most Across the river Brenta by the bridge from splendid treasures of history. Chioggia is Ca’ Lino. To get to the Po Delta Venice’s lagoon stands for the dogged area we must first cross another important defence of La Serenissima against the sea river, the Adige, whose Delta marks the end Sacca degli Scardovari wearing away the shoreline, and against of the Venice lagoon. The Adige estuary is Levante, at the extreme north of the Delta, is the rivers silting up the open water. The fairly wild still: on one side there is the beach not an active branch of the river, but is kept The landscape of the Sacca degli lagoon extends from north to south in the resort of Rosolina Mare, a recently deposited alive by a canal. Scardovari changes colour by the shape of a bow, from the mouth of the Sile sandy area including Porto Caleri and the seasons, through the various shades to the mouth of the Brenta, shielded by island of Albarella (not on our itinerary). On of grey and blue; on one side the sea the islands of the Lido and Pellestrina. the other side and inland is Rosolina itself, and near that Porto Levante. The Po di water, on the other fresh water from canals, ponds and flooded fields. In Chioggia amongst this are buildings used by Marina di Porto Levante is an ideal fisher-folk, and beside them anchor- departure point from which to discover ages for the boats they call “vongolare” the splendid islands of the Venetian - the Sacca is today a centre for the cul- lagoon or as far as the Croatian coast; tivation of clams and mussels, and is also a good place to try your hand at the one of the biggest European centres for absorbing sport of deep sea fishing. the production of mussels.

From Porto Levante we head towards Ca’ At Santa Giulia, an important stop for Venier: everywhere you look there are strong anyone visiting the Po Delta, we cross the images, reflective or poetic, but always Po di Gnocca (otherwise known as Po della inspiring and of great evocative power; the Donzella) by a pontoon bridge, and head bicycle is the best transport to appreciate for Gorino Veneto or Gorino Sullam, named these nuances of nature. Ca’Venier is an after a Jewish family who used to farm there. island enclosed by the Po di Venezia to the At Gorino Veneto another pontoon bridge south, and by the Po di Maistra to the west takes us across the Po di Goro and into and north; cross the river and head towards Ferrara province at Gorino Ferrarese. Ca’ Mello, a reclaimed area of 40 hectares, At this point the route turns onto the Destra and onto the Sacca degli Scardovari which Po Cycle-tourism path, to be followed back we follow round as far as Santa Giulia. to our final destination, Ferrara. (see Routes around Ferrara No.1, p.34).

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