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SUB-ANTARCTIC ISLANDS of NEW ZEALAND Aboard the Caledonian Sky

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SUB-ANTARCTIC ISLANDS of NEW ZEALAND Aboard the Caledonian Sky SUB-ANTARCTIC ISLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND Aboard the Caledonian Sky JANUARY 16–FEBRUARY 2, 2020 King Penguins at Macquarie Island © Max Breckenridge LEADERS: MAX BRECKENRIDGE & ZEGRAHM STAFF LIST COMPILED BY: MAX BRECKENRIDGE VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM New Zealand instantly conjures up images of a beautifully rugged island, covered in primeval forest, battered by weather originating in the untamed Southern Ocean. If this is true for the relatively large landmass of New Zealand’s South Island, then the islands dotted south of ‘NZ’ towards 60o surely inspire thoughts of wonder and amazement. These are special places, touched by few, and only discovered as a result of the unbelievable fortitude of notable early explorers. The islands of Sub-Antarctic New Zealand and Australia have been home to hardy and unique life forms for millennia. With this in mind, a capable and experienced agent is required to reach these islands and experience them properly. Zegrahm Expeditions provided an outstanding staff, crew, and ship—the sleek, yet sturdy Caledonian Sky—for this trip, and we were not disappointed. A regal-looking Tui (L), a member of the honeyeater family, and a prehistoric South Island Takahe (R) from Orokonui © M Breckenridge. We began our journey in the quaint city of Dunedin, known for its gothic architecture. We were introduced to a good selection of New Zealand’s birds at the Orokonui Ecosanctuary, but also to the issue of feral pests, which have ravaged much of the country. Sanctuaries such as these are essential pest-free reserves dedicated to preserving native flora and fauna. A scenic drive along the shoreline of the Otago Peninsula brought us to Taiaroa Head at the entrance to Dunedin Harbour. Here we enjoyed uninterrupted views of ‘Northern’ Royal Albatross at their own mainland breeding colony. The following day at sea allowed us all to familiarize ourselves with the well-appointed Caledonian Sky and enjoy calm seas, good seabirds, and a variety of lectures. This pattern followed suit for our other days on the Southern Ocean, which were few, but very pleasant, with only two days of rough seas during our entire voyage. One of many gorgeous ‘Southern’ Royal Albatross that nest close to the boardwalk (L), and a sneaky Subantarctic Snipe (R) scuttling away © M Breckenridge. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Indeed, our day on Campbell Island, our first island, was one of those days few get to experience in this part of the world—sunshine without a breath of wind! We spent a whole day exploring the island from land and sea, with a very fortunate visit to Penguin Bay on the usually windswept and treacherous west coast. It was here that we encountered our first two penguin species including a rare Erect-crested Penguin! Heading south and gradually farther from New Zealand, we arrived at the southern outpost of Macquarie Island (an Australian territory) after another full day at sea. Macquarie Island, or ‘Macca,’ is a truly fascinating place, both ecologically and historically. Even from the ship one can see the shoreline littered with seals and penguins as giant albatross fly side by side with tiny prions over the small collection of buildings situated at the island’s exposed northern peninsula. We were fortunate to explore both the human component (the Australian Antarctic Division’s Macquarie Island Station) and natural beauty of Macca. An unforgettable afternoon at Sandy Bay was spent amongst thousands of Royal and King penguins and Southern Elephant Seals. With penguins nibbling on our boots, it was something straight out of a David Attenborough documentary! We began motoring north towards the Auckland Islands, bidding beautiful Macquarie Island farewell with a pod of Orcas at the stern. Flowering rata (AL) on Enderby Island, the Caledonian Sky (AR) anchored at Bradhsaw Harbour in Doubtful Sound, a gorgeous pair of Light-mantled Albatross (BL) on Enderby Island, and a parade of Royal Penguins (BR) endemic to Macquarie Island © M Breckenridge. Approaching Carnley Harbour at the southern end of the Auckland Islands, we marveled at the seabird spectacle of thousands of Sooty Shearwaters massing offshore as we enjoyed an evening ship cruise through this magnificent part of the world. The next morning we awoke anchored in the calm waters just offshore of Enderby Island, at the northern end of the island group. We were treated to another fine day Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 ashore and another great Zodiac cruise. The shy Yellow-eyed Penguins juxtaposed the rambunctious and aggressive New Zealand Sea Lion colony on the beach, and some were lucky enough to spot the scarce New Zealand Falcon soaring above the scarlet blossoms of the rata forest. Stewart Island (Rakiura) beckoned, and after clearing customs in the southern city of Bluff, we spent a full day in glorious sunshine exploring the main island and the smaller pest-free Ulva Island, which was teeming with birds—a fortunate few even spotted a not-so-nocturnal Southern Brown Kiwi in the forest! We rounded out an awesome day with a couple of rare Fiordland Penguins in a rocky cove and some much-desired Little Penguins surfacing in the glassy waters of Halfmoon Bay. A cheeky Kea (A) in its preferred habitat at The Chasm in Fiordland NP, a cute New Zealand Sea Lion pup (BL) on Enderby Island, and the master of the Southern Ocean, a Wandering Albatross (BR) at sea © M Breckenridge. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Over the next two days, we explored the magnificently imposing sounds of Fiordland National Park. Despite being part of New Zealand’s South Island, it felt as remote and untouched as the islands we had just visited. Every available surface was covered with living plants, from tiny intricate ferns and mosses to huge ancient beech trees. It was a special experience visiting the site of Captain James Cook’s observation of the transit of Venus on a small nondescript, forested point. Making our way up the rugged west coast, we entered the deep waters of spectacular Milford Sound where cascading waterfalls and towering cliffs surrounded us. Bidding the crew and the ship farewell, we took the narrow and precarious road out of the sound to scenic Te Anau and onto our final destination— Queenstown. [It is worth noting that two days after we left Milford Sound, more than a meter of rain fell—forcing tourists to be evacuated from the area by helicopter!] On our final day in New Zealand all the birders opted for an excursion to Glentanner, under the shadow of Mount Cook. Here we struck gold, as upon pulling up along the flooded shores of the braided river system, a critically endangered Black Stilt presented itself! We spent an unforgettable hour with one adult and seven immatures of what is ostensibly the world’s rarest shorebird, under a magnificent backdrop of snowy peaks. I would like to thank the Zegrahm staff, Greg Lopez at VENT, Mike, Clayton, Marilyn, Ronald, Julie, and all the other participants for an unforgettable trip. This part of the world is undoubtedly one of the epicenters of seabird and penguin diversity, filled with stunning scenery, and home to a vast array of unique and rarely seen species. I hope everyone has the opportunity to visit the Sub-Antarctic of New Zealand at some point in their lives! Simply gorgeous – an adult Black Stilt at Glentanner on our last day in New Zealand © M Breckenridge. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Beautiful scenery and unusually calm seas along the west coast of Campbell Island © M Breckenridge. ITINERARY Date Locations Sunday 19th Jan AM: Dunedin – Orokonui Ecosanctuary PM: Taiaroa Head – Royal Albatross Centre; aboard the Caledonian Sky Monday 20th Jan AM/PM: At sea – heading south from Dunedin to Campbell Island Tuesday 21st Jan AM: Campbell Island – Perseverance Harbour and boardwalk PM: Campbell Island – Penguin Bay Zodiac cruise Wednesday 22nd Jan AM/PM: At sea – heading southwest from Campbell Island to Macquarie Island (Australia) Thursday 23rd Jan AM: Macquarie Island – Macquarie Island Station PM: Macquarie Island – Sandy Bay Friday 24th Jan AM: Macquarie Island – Lusitania Bay Zodiac cruise PM: At sea – heading northeast to the Auckland Islands (New Zealand) Saturday 25th Jan AM: At sea – heading northeast to the Auckland Islands PM: Ship cruise in Carnley Harbour, anchor off Enderby Island Sunday 26th Jan AM: Enderby Island PM: Enderby Island – Zodiac cruise; at sea – heading north to The Snares Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Monday 27th Jan AM: Ship cruise along The Snares PM: Dock in Bluff; anchor off Stewart Island Tuesday 28th Jan AM: Stewart Island – Ulva Island PM: Stewart Island – Oban and Halfmoon Bay Wednesday 29th Jan AM: Dusky Sound – Astronomer’s Point PM: Breaksea Sound to Doubtful Sound Thursday 30th Jan AM: Doubtful Sound – Bradshaw Harbour PM: Milford Sound Friday 31st Jan AM: Disembark at Milford Sound; Fiordland NP to Te Anau PM: Queenstown Saturday 1st Feb AM/PM: Excursion to Glentanner via Lake Dunstan and Twizel Sunday 2nd Feb AM/PM: Departures from Queenstown KEY H – Heard only L – Leader only I – Introduced species E – Species is endemic to New Zealand M – Species is endemic to Macquarie Island e – Species is endemic to Australasia (Australia, New Zealand, New Guinea, Oceania) ssp – subspecies NZ – New Zealand BIRDS Species total: 116 Heard only: 1 Leader only: 3 KIWIS E (Apterygidae) Southern Brown Kiwi E (Apteryx australis) – Single heard by some, and seen by others, on Ulva Island.
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