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Home , Fiordland, Fiordland penguin, Kea, Little penguin, New Zealand kaka, Orokonui Ecosanctuary

SUB-ANTARCTIC ISLANDS OF Aboard the Caledonian Sky

JANUARY 16–FEBRUARY 2, 2020

King at Macquarie Island © Max Breckenridge

LEADERS: MAX BRECKENRIDGE & ZEGRAHM STAFF LIST COMPILED BY: MAX BRECKENRIDGE

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM New Zealand instantly conjures up images of a beautifully rugged island, covered in primeval forest, battered by weather originating in the untamed Southern Ocean. If this is true for the relatively large landmass of New Zealand’s , then the islands dotted south of ‘NZ’ towards 60o surely inspire thoughts of wonder and amazement. These are special places, touched by few, and only discovered as a result of the unbelievable fortitude of notable early explorers. The islands of Sub-Antarctic New Zealand and have been home to hardy and unique life forms for millennia. With this in mind, a capable and experienced agent is required to reach these islands and experience them properly. Zegrahm Expeditions provided an outstanding staff, crew, and ship—the sleek, yet sturdy Caledonian Sky—for this trip, and we were not disappointed.

A regal-looking (L), a member of the , and a prehistoric South Island Takahe (R) from Orokonui © M Breckenridge.

We began our journey in the quaint city of , known for its gothic architecture. We were introduced to a good selection of New Zealand’s at the , but also to the issue of feral pests, which have ravaged much of the country. Sanctuaries such as these are essential pest-free reserves dedicated to preserving native flora and fauna. A scenic drive along the shoreline of the Peninsula brought us to Taiaroa Head at the entrance to Dunedin Harbour. Here we enjoyed uninterrupted views of ‘Northern’ Royal Albatross at their own mainland breeding colony.

The following day at sea allowed us all to familiarize ourselves with the well-appointed Caledonian Sky and enjoy calm seas, good seabirds, and a variety of lectures. This pattern followed suit for our other days on the Southern Ocean, which were few, but very pleasant, with only two days of rough seas during our entire voyage.

One of many gorgeous ‘Southern’ Royal Albatross that nest close to the boardwalk (L), and a sneaky Subantarctic Snipe (R) scuttling away © M Breckenridge.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020

Indeed, our day on Campbell Island, our first island, was one of those days few get to experience in this part of the world—sunshine without a breath of wind! We spent a whole day exploring the island from land and sea, with a very fortunate visit to Bay on the usually windswept and treacherous west coast. It was here that we encountered our first two penguin including a rare Erect-!

Heading south and gradually farther from New Zealand, we arrived at the southern outpost of Macquarie Island (an Australian territory) after another full day at sea. Macquarie Island, or ‘Macca,’ is a truly fascinating place, both ecologically and historically. Even from the ship one can see the shoreline littered with seals and penguins as giant albatross fly side by side with tiny prions over the small collection of buildings situated at the island’s exposed northern peninsula. We were fortunate to explore both the human component (the Australian Antarctic Division’s Macquarie Island Station) and natural beauty of Macca. An unforgettable afternoon at Sandy Bay was spent amongst thousands of Royal and King penguins and Southern Elephant Seals. With penguins nibbling on our boots, it was something straight out of a David Attenborough documentary! We began motoring north towards the , bidding beautiful Macquarie Island farewell with a pod of Orcas at the stern.

Flowering rata (AL) on Enderby Island, the Caledonian Sky (AR) anchored at Bradhsaw Harbour in Doubtful Sound, a gorgeous pair of Light-mantled Albatross (BL) on Enderby Island, and a parade of Royal Penguins (BR) endemic to Macquarie Island © M Breckenridge.

Approaching Carnley Harbour at the southern end of the Auckland Islands, we marveled at the seabird spectacle of thousands of Sooty Shearwaters massing offshore as we enjoyed an evening ship cruise through this magnificent part of the world. The next morning we awoke anchored in the calm waters just offshore of Enderby Island, at the northern end of the island group. We were treated to another fine day

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 ashore and another great Zodiac cruise. The shy Yellow-eyed Penguins juxtaposed the rambunctious and aggressive New Zealand Sea Lion colony on the beach, and some were lucky enough to spot the scarce soaring above the scarlet blossoms of the rata forest.

Stewart Island (Rakiura) beckoned, and after clearing customs in the southern city of Bluff, we spent a full day in glorious sunshine exploring the main island and the smaller pest-free Ulva Island, which was teeming with birds—a fortunate few even spotted a not-so-nocturnal Southern Brown in the forest! We rounded out an awesome day with a couple of rare Penguins in a rocky cove and some much-desired Little Penguins surfacing in the glassy waters of Halfmoon Bay.

A cheeky (A) in its preferred habitat at The Chasm in Fiordland NP, a cute New Zealand Sea Lion pup (BL) on Enderby Island, and the master of the Southern Ocean, a Wandering Albatross (BR) at sea © M Breckenridge.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Over the next two days, we explored the magnificently imposing sounds of . Despite being part of New Zealand’s South Island, it felt as remote and untouched as the islands we had just visited. Every available surface was covered with living plants, from tiny intricate ferns and mosses to huge ancient beech trees. It was a special experience visiting the site of Captain James Cook’s observation of the transit of Venus on a small nondescript, forested point.

Making our way up the rugged west coast, we entered the deep waters of spectacular Milford Sound where cascading waterfalls and towering cliffs surrounded us. Bidding the crew and the ship farewell, we took the narrow and precarious road out of the sound to scenic and onto our final destination— Queenstown. [It is worth noting that two days after we left Milford Sound, more than a meter of rain fell—forcing tourists to be evacuated from the area by helicopter!] On our final day in New Zealand all the birders opted for an excursion to Glentanner, under the shadow of Mount Cook. Here we struck gold, as upon pulling up along the flooded shores of the braided river system, a critically endangered presented itself! We spent an unforgettable hour with one adult and seven immatures of what is ostensibly the world’s rarest shorebird, under a magnificent backdrop of snowy peaks.

I would like to thank the Zegrahm staff, Greg Lopez at VENT, Mike, Clayton, Marilyn, Ronald, Julie, and all the other participants for an unforgettable trip. This part of the world is undoubtedly one of the epicenters of seabird and penguin diversity, filled with stunning scenery, and home to a vast array of unique and rarely seen species. I hope everyone has the opportunity to visit the Sub-Antarctic of New Zealand at some point in their lives!

Simply gorgeous – an adult Black Stilt at Glentanner on our last day in New Zealand © M Breckenridge.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020

Beautiful scenery and unusually calm seas along the west coast of Campbell Island © M Breckenridge.

ITINERARY

Date Locations Sunday 19th Jan AM: Dunedin – Orokonui Ecosanctuary PM: Taiaroa Head – Royal Albatross Centre; aboard the Caledonian Sky Monday 20th Jan AM/PM: At sea – heading south from Dunedin to Campbell Island Tuesday 21st Jan AM: Campbell Island – Perseverance Harbour and boardwalk PM: Campbell Island – Penguin Bay Zodiac cruise Wednesday 22nd Jan AM/PM: At sea – heading southwest from Campbell Island to Macquarie Island (Australia) Thursday 23rd Jan AM: Macquarie Island – Macquarie Island Station PM: Macquarie Island – Sandy Bay Friday 24th Jan AM: Macquarie Island – Lusitania Bay Zodiac cruise PM: At sea – heading northeast to the Auckland Islands (New Zealand) Saturday 25th Jan AM: At sea – heading northeast to the Auckland Islands PM: Ship cruise in Carnley Harbour, anchor off Enderby Island Sunday 26th Jan AM: Enderby Island PM: Enderby Island – Zodiac cruise; at sea – heading north to The Snares

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Monday 27th Jan AM: Ship cruise along The Snares PM: Dock in Bluff; anchor off Stewart Island Tuesday 28th Jan AM: Stewart Island – Ulva Island PM: Stewart Island – Oban and Halfmoon Bay Wednesday 29th Jan AM: Dusky Sound – Astronomer’s Point PM: Breaksea Sound to Doubtful Sound Thursday 30th Jan AM: Doubtful Sound – Bradshaw Harbour PM: Milford Sound Friday 31st Jan AM: Disembark at Milford Sound; Fiordland NP to Te Anau PM: Queenstown Saturday 1st Feb AM/PM: Excursion to Glentanner via Lake Dunstan and Twizel Sunday 2nd Feb AM/PM: Departures from Queenstown

KEY  H – Heard only  L – Leader only  I –  E – Species is endemic to New Zealand  M – Species is endemic to Macquarie Island  e – Species is endemic to Australasia (Australia, New Zealand, New Guinea, )  ssp –  NZ – New Zealand

BIRDS Species total: 116 Heard only: 1 Leader only: 3

KIWIS E (Apterygidae) E (Apteryx australis) – Single heard by some, and seen by others, on Ulva Island. Typically a nocturnal species.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020

The endemic flightless teals of New Zealand’s Sub-Antarctic – Campbell Islands Teal (L), and a pair of Auckland Islands Teal (R) from Enderby Island © M Breckenridge.

DUCKS, GEESE & WATERFOWL (Anatidae) Canada Goose I (Branta canadensis) – Tens in Dunedin, Te Anau, and Glentanner. Black Swan e (Cygnus atratus) – Hundreds in Dunedin Harbour and Lake Dunstan. E (Tadorna variegata) – Tens/singles around Dunedin, Oban, and hundreds at Lake Dunstan. E (Hymenolaimus malacorhynchos) – Single seen briefly from the bus window between Milford Sound and Te Anau. Pacific Black Duck L (Anas superciliosa) – Three birds at Milford Sound. Some likely hybrids also observed near Twizel. Mallard I (Anas platyrhynchos) – Tens/singles on several occasions. Not pure Mallards. Most individuals in NZ are hybrids with domestic varieties or Pacific Black Duck. Auckland Islands Teal E (Anas aucklandica) – At least five individuals observed at Enderby Island along the shoreline and amongst ribbon kelp. A confiding pair of this flightless endemic greeted us at our beach landing. Campbell Islands Teal E (Anas nesiotis) – Great views of a confiding individual waiting for us at the dock on Campbell Island. E (Aythya novaeseelandiae) – Singles at and tens around Queenstown and Twizel.

NEW WORLD QUAIL (Odontophoridae) California Quail I (Callipepla californica) – Singles outside our hotel in Queenstown.

GREBES (Podicipedidae) Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus) [‘Australasian Crested Grebe’ (Podiceps c. australis)] – Singles at Lake Dunstan and near Twizel. The Australasian subspecies is a good candidate for a split due to its geographical isolation and permanent breeding plumage.

PIGEONS & DOVES (Columbidae) Rock Pigeon I (Columba livia) – Tens in Dunedin and Queenstown. New Zealand Pigeon [Kereru] E (Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae) – Singles of this attractive dove at Orokonui, Stewart Island and Fiordland.

CUCKOOS (Cuculidae)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Long-tailed Koel [Cuckoo] H (Urodynamis taitensis) – One/two heard by some at Bradshaw Harbour in Doubtful Sound. A notoriously difficult species to see.

A New Zealand Pigeon (L) gorging itself in Fiordland NP, and an inquisitive (R) on Ulva Island © M Breckenridge.

RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS (Rallidae) Weka E (Gallirallus australis) – Up to ten individuals, including youngsters, allowing for excellent views on Ulva Island. Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra) – Tens near Twizel. South Island Takahe E (Porphyrio hochstetteri) – The now resident pair at Orokonui put on a great show soon after we arrived at the sanctuary. An endangered species that only survives in pest-free locations.

STILTS & AVOCETS (Recurvirostridae) Pied Stilt (Himantopus leucocephalus) – Tens at Lake Dunstan and a single with Black Stilts at Glentanner. Black Stilt E (Himantopus novaezelandiae) – Eight individuals, including a striking adult, allowed for an unforgettable experience at Glentanner in the shadow of Mount Cook. We enjoyed an hour of watching this small party as they fed within touching distance at times. Likely the world’s rarest shorebird with barely 200 birds remaining.

OYSTERCATCHERS (Haematopodidae) South Island Oystercatcher E (Haematopus finschi) – Tens in Dunedin Harbour and singles at Ulva Island and Glentanner. Variable Oystercatcher E (Haematopus unicolor) – Tens in Dunedin Harbour and singles at Ulva Island and Fiordland.

PLOVERS & LAPWINGS (Charadriidae) Masked Lapwing (Vanellus miles) – Tens in Dunedin Harbour and in fields north of Queenstown. Double-banded Plover e (Charadrius b. bicinctus) – Singles at Glentanner and Lake Dunstan. [‘Auckland Double-banded Plover’ (Charadrius b. exilis)] – Singles seen distantly on the boardwalk. Better views for those who did the long hike. Endemic subspecies to the Auckland Islands.

SANDPIPERS & ALLIES (Scolopacidae) Bar-tailed Godwit (Limosa lapponica) – Up to 50 birds in Dunedin Harbour.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) – Up to ten birds seen by those who did the long hike on Enderby Island. Subantarctic Snipe E (Coenocorypha aucklandica) – Singles seen by some on Campbell Island and during the long hike on Enderby Island. Up to ten birds heard on our day at Campbell. Common Greenshank L (Tringa nebularia) – A vagrant to New Zealand. A single was seen well, calling in flight, while anchored offshore from Enderby Island. Perhaps the most southerly record ever of this species!

A sly (L) on Enderby Island, and a Variable Oystercatcher (R) from Doubtful Sound © M Breckenridge.

SKUAS & JAEGERS (Stercorariidae) Brown Skua (Stercorarius antarcticus) – Tens/singles seen each day in the Southern Ocean. Good numbers encountered onshore at Campbell, Macquarie, and Enderby Islands where they make a living scavenging around penguin and seal colonies. Cute and confiding one minute, crafty and vicious the next! [‘Subantarctic Skua’ (Stercorarius a. lonnbergi)] – Plumage differences are difficult to discern between subspecies, but lonnbergi is the expected subspecies in the region. Parasitic Jaeger [Arctic Skua] L (Stercorarius parasiticus) – A pair seen flying south between Doubtful and Milford Sounds.

GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS (Laridae) Black-billed Gull E (Chroicocephalus bulleri) – Tens at Te Anau and around Queenstown, north to Twizel. One of the world’s most endangered gulls as a result of its limited range and recent declines. Silver [Red-billed] Gull e (Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae scopulinus) – Tens/hundreds on several occasions across the South and Sub-Antarctic Islands. Often referred to as ‘Red-billed’ Gull in New Zealand, now considered a single species. Kelp [Southern Black-backed] Gull (Larus d. dominicanus) – Tens/hundreds observed on all but two days. Black-fronted Tern E (Chlidonias albostriatus) – Singles seen in flight over fields near Te Anau and Queenstown. Good views at Lake Dunstan and Glentanner. White-fronted Tern e (Sterna striata) – Tens/singles on several occasions. The common breeding tern in New Zealand. Antarctic Tern (Sterna v. [vittata group]) – Tens around Campbell and Auckland Islands (ssp. bethunei), and singles at Sandy Bay on Macquarie Island (ssp. macquariensis). A beautiful tern that breeds in the Sub-Antarctic.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020

A lone Erect-crested Penguin (AL) amongst Southern Rockhopper Penguins on Campbell Island, a (AR) enjoying the sunshine with a on Macquarie Island, a sleepy Yellow-eyed Penguin (BL) on Enderby Island, and a pair of Fiordland Penguins (BR) on Stewart Island © M Breckenridge.

PENGUINS (Spheniscidae) King Penguin ( patagonicus) – Beautiful and boisterous. We had all the views one could desire of this remarkable bird during our time on Macquarie Island. We especially enjoyed our spell at a small colony at Sandy Bay, numbering around 6000 birds. Despite challenging conditions the following day, we were able to marvel at the spectacle of the Lusitania Bay colony from zodiacs where up to 100,000 birds breed. Gentoo Penguin ( p. papua) – A small colony of up to 100 birds breed around the Base at the northern end of Macquarie Island. We had lovely views of up to 20 birds amongst the Elephant Seals on our day ashore. Yellow-eyed Penguin E ( antipodes) – Up to 40 of this unique and endangered penguin observed resting and waddling down the beach at Enderby Island. A single was observed at sea near Stewart Island and some were heard at Campbell Island. e ( m. minor) – A single in Dunedin Harbour, and good looks at up to ten individuals in the water while anchored in Halfmoon Bay at Stewart Island. E (Eudyptes pachyrhynchus) – Our final penguin for the trip, and one of the most vulnerable and difficult members of the family to find. We had fantastic looks at several sheltering in a rocky cove of Halfmoon Bay at Stewart Island. Single birds were seen briefly by some in the water at Dusky and Milford Sounds. Erect-crested Penguin E (Eudyptes sclateri) – The star of Campbell Island! An endangered species that only breeds on the all but inaccessible Antipodes, we were incredibly fortunate to find a single adult amongst a colony of rockhoppers during our zodiac cruise at Penguin Bay. This was a major

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 bonus for the penguin listers among us, as Mike said at recap that evening, “seeing this penguin saved all of you a twenty-thousand dollar trip”. M (Eudyptes schlegeli) – A near-threatened species that only breeds on Macquarie Island. We had a great time observing their antics at Sandy Bay where a colony of over 20,000 birds spend the summer. Southern Rockhopper Penguin (Eudyptes chrysocome) [‘Eastern Rockhopper Penguin’ (Eudyptes c. filholi)] – We were fortunate to visit a large colony of these vulnerable penguins at Penguin Bay on Campbell Island. Many were also seen in the water from the ship as we cruised around Campbell Island. A small colony was seen distantly at the northern end of Macquarie Island. Snares Penguin E (Eudyptes robustus) – Unfortunately due to rough weather, we could not zodiac cruise at The Snares. However, we had as good views as you could hope for of hundreds of individuals of this vulnerable species from the ship as we cruised close to the island. Some of the best views were of birds in the water close to the ship.

A White-capped Albatross (L) close to the stern while in Dusky Sound, and a striking White-headed Petrel (R) at sea © M Breckenridge.

ALBATROSSES (Diomedeidae) Gray-headed Albatross (Thalassarche chrysostoma) – A subtly stunning albatross. We had great looks at up to 25 individuals of this endangered species as we cruised around Campbell Island where up to 8,000 pairs breed. Buller’s Albatross (Thalassarche bulleri) – Distant views of a couple near Carnley Harbour, were followed up by good looks at hundreds of birds at The Snares (up to 9,000 pairs breed here). Singles were seen at sea on the following three days. White-capped [Shy] Albatross (Thalassarche cauta steadi) – The most regularly encountered albatross species. More often seen at sea than near islands, but common around Stewart Island and the Fiordland coast. Salvin’s Albatross (Thalassarche salvini) – Singles observed just outside the entrance to Dunedin Harbour, off Stewart Island, and along the Fiordland coast. Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanorphis) – Treated by most institutions as two species. [‘Black-browed Albatross’ (Thalassarche m. melanorphis)] – Tens/singles of the endangered subspecies observed at sea from the 20th to the 23rd. [‘Campbell Albatross’ (Thalassarche m. impavida)] – Tens observed at sea around Campbell

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 Island, and a portion of the 25,000 pairs that breed on Campbell Island observed nesting on cliffs. Also observed en route to Macqaurie Island the following day. Darker underwings and a creamy-yellow eye distinguish it from the nominate subspecies. Sooty Albatross (Phoebetria fusca) – A single north of Macquarie Island was observed by at least one participant and Zegrahm staff member, Sam, who identified it with photos. A very lucky find! Light-mantled Albatross (Phoebetria palpebrata) – Tens of this remarkable seabird were enjoyed on several occasions during the trip. Some of our most memorable experiences were that of courting birds right overhead at Campbell Island and a pair with a fluffy youngster on Enderby Island. We also saw individuals on Macquarie Island and at sea to the north of the island. Royal Albatross (Diomedea epomophora) [‘Southern’ Royal Albatross (Diomedea e. epomorpha)] – Unforgettable views of individuals nesting on Campbell and Enderby Islands. Singles observed at sea on at least seven separate days. [‘Northern’ Royal Albatross (Diomedea e. sanfordi)] – Up to 35 individuals of this endangered subspecies were observed around Taiaroa Head near Dunedin on the first day of the trip. We had great looks at adults on their nests, from a hide, and of individuals flying just offshore. Wandering Albatross (Diomedea exulans) – A familiar species, but with a confusing array of plumages and subspecies. We encountered Wanderers on several occasions, but most were seen on the return from Macquarie Island and along the Fiordland coast. [‘Snowy’ Albatross (Diomedea e. exulans)] – The nominate subspecies. Several identified from photos taken while at sea between Macquarie and Auckland Islands. [‘Gibson’s’ Albatross (Diomedea e. gibsoni)] – The most common subspecies in the region, breeding on several of the Sub-Antarctic islands. Singles/tens of various ages seen at sea south of the Auckland Islands and along the Fiordland coast.

SOUTHERN STORM-PETRELS (Oceanitidae) Wilson’s Storm-Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) – Five birds seen together while cruising around Campbell Island. Gray-backed Storm-Petrel (Garrodia nereis) – Singles observed at sea on at least three different occasions. Black-bellied Storm-Petrel (Fregetta tropica) – Singles observed on our first two days at sea, with up to 50 birds seen at sea during the 25th.

A Southern Giant-Petrel (L) on Macquarie Island, and a Buller’s Shearwater (R) along the Fiordland coast © M Breckenridge.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020

SHEARWATERS & PETRELS (Procellariidae) Southern Giant-Petrel (Macronectes giganteus) – Singles on Campbell and Enderby Islands, with good numbers at Macquarie Island including several striking white morph birds. Far less common overall than Northern Giant-Petrel. Northern Giant-Petrel (Macronectes halli) – Singles/tens seen every day at sea and on each of the Sub- Antarctic islands. Cape [Pintado] Petrel (Daption capense australe) – Singles/tens seen at sea on several occasions. Common around Campbell Island and The Snares. Typically seen flying as close to the stern as possible! White-headed Petrel (Pterodroma lessonii) – A striking and graceful petrel of the southern oceans. Up to 60 individuals observed at sea between Campbell and Macquarie Islands, then up to 120 birds on the northwards leg to the Auckland Islands. Mottled Petrel (Pterodroma inexpectata) – A small, but distinctive petrel that breeds in the region. Singles/tens observed at sea north of Macquarie Island, around Stewart Island and along the Fiordland coast. Cook’s Petrel (Pterodroma cookii) – Singles at sea around Stewart Island and the Fiordland coast. Fairy (Pachyptila turtur) – Singles/tens at sea around The Snares and Stewart Island. Antarctic [Dove] Prion (Pachyptila desolata) – Very common in waters north of and around Macquarie Island, with over 200 birds seen each day from the 22nd to 25th. One bird was found on deck on the 30th. White-chinned Petrel (Procellaria aequinoctialis) – Singles/tens on our first day at sea and along the Fiordland coast. Up to 80 birds at sea heading north from Macquarie Island. Buller’s Shearwater (Ardenna bulleri) – An attractive shearwater, at least 15 individuals spotted amongst the Sooty Shearwaters on two different days cruising along the Fiordland coast. Sooty Shearwater (Ardenna grisea) – The most common seabird in the region. Singles/tens/hundreds seen every day at sea, with huge concentrations (<100,000) around Carnley Harbour and The Snares. Subantarctic Shearwater L (Puffinus elegans) – One bird spotted amongst the Sooty Shearwaters as we were approaching Carnley Harbour. Common Diving-Petrel (Pelecanoides urinatrix) – Singles on several occasions at sea, including one bird found on deck. Well over 500 birds seen at sea around The Snares and Stewart Island.

BOOBIES & () Australasian e (Morus serrator) – Single observed at sea just outside the heads of Breaksea Sound.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020

An Auckland Islands Shag showing its distinctive red eye-ring on Enderby Island © M Breckenridge.

CORMORANTS & SHAGS (Phalacrocoracidae) Little Pied (Microcarbo melanoleucos brevirostris) – Over a hundred individuals observed along Dunedin Harbour, with singles seen around Stewart Island, Fiordland and Lake Dunstan. Great [Australasian] Cormorant ( carbo novaehollandiae) – Tens at Lake Dunstan. E (Phalacrocorax [Stictocarbo] punctatus) – Tens at Taiaroa Head near Dunedin and at Dusky Sound. Pied Cormorant (Phalacrocorax varius) – Singles each day in Fiordland. Stewart Island Shag E (Phalacrocorax chalconotus) – Two distinctive subspecies that may warrant full species status. [‘Otago Shag’ (Phalacrocorax c. chalconotus)] – A breeding colony of over 100 birds was observed below the albatross hide at Taiaroa Head near Dunedin. [‘’ (Phalacrocorax c. stewarti)] – Singles observed in Halfmoon Bay at Stewart Island. Auckland Islands Shag E (Phalacrocorax colensoi) – Endemic to the Auckland Islands. Up to 60 individuals observed around Enderby Island, collecting nesting material and breeding on cliffs along the north end of the island. Campbell Islands Shag E (Phalacrocorax campbelli) – Endemic to Campbell Island. Up to 50 individuals observed around Campbell Island. M (Phalacrocorax purpurascens) – An attractive blue-eyed shag, endemic to Macquarie Island. Up to 70 individuals observed nesting at the base, and smaller numbers at Sandy and Lusitania Bays.

HERONS, EGRETS & BITTERNS (Ardeidae) Great [Australasian] Egret (Ardea alba modesta) – Single bird at Milford Sound. White-faced Heron (Egretta novaehollandiae) – Tens in Dunedin Harbour, and singles in Doubtful Sound and at Glentanner.

IBISES & SPOONBILLS (Threskiornithidae) Royal Spoonbill (Platalea regia) – Up to 20 individuals along the and at Taiaroa Head.

HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES (Accipitridae)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 (Circus approximans) – A common sight over farmland, being one of only two raptors in New Zealand. Singles/tens around Dunedin, Te Anau, and north of Queenstown.

OWLS (Strigidae) Morepork E (Ninox novaeseelandiae) – A single bird found roosting in a tight spot on Ulva Island. Located by a party of South Island Saddlebacks allowing views for all. New Zealand’s only endemic owl.

FALCONS & CARACARAS (Falconidae) New Zealand Falcon E (Falco novaeseelandiae) – A very lucky sighting for some of an individual on Enderby Island.

NEW ZEALAND E (Strigopidae) Kea E ( notabilis) – An endangered and enigmatic , fond of dismantling cars! Heard by some during a zodiac cruise in Bradshaw Harbour. Great views of an individual the following day in the carpark at The Chasm near Milford Sound. New Zealand [South Island] Kaka E (Nestor m. meridionalis) – Up to eight birds allowing great views on our first day at Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin. Singles on Ulva and Stewart Islands.

OLD WORLD PARROTS (Psittaculidae) Red-crowned Parakeet [Kakariki] E ( novaezelandiae) – Tens on Enderby and Ulva Islands. Yellow-crowned Parakeet E (Cyanoramphus auriceps) – Much less common than Red-crowned Parakeet. At least two individuals observed on Ulva Island. Eastern I (Platycercus eximius) – Introduced from Australia. A few birds seen briefly around Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin.

A (L) at Orokonui near Dunedin, and a Red-crowned Parakeet (R) on Enderby Island © M Breckenridge and Mike Bertin.

NEW ZEALAND WRENS E (Acanthisittidae) E (Acanthisitta c. chloris) – A tiny denizen of New Zealand’s native forests. Typically encountered in parties, making high-pitched calls. Most people had an assortment of views from Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin and Ulva Island.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020

HONEYEATERS (Meliphagidae) Tui E (Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae) – A large and attractive honeyeater with a fantastic repertoire. Singles/tens at Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin, Enderby, Ulva and Stewart Islands. E ( melanura) – Singles/tens heard or seen most days on the South Island, also on Enderby, Ulva and Stewart Islands.

THORNBILLS & ALLIES (Acanthizidae) Gray Gerygone E (Gerygone igata) – Singles heard on several occasions during our time on the South Island, and good views of several on Ulva Island.

WHITEHEADS E (Mohouidae) E ( ochrocephala) – At least 10 individuals of this endangered forest species observed feeding and calling in small parties on Ulva Island where they have been reintroduced. [Brown Creeper] E (Mohoua novaeseelandiae) – Singles observed at Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin, on Ulva Island and in Fiordland.

BELLMAGPIES & ALLIES e (Cracticidae) I (Gymnorhina tibicen) – Singles observed in farmland around Dunedin, Te Anau and north of Queenstown.

FANTAILS (Rhipiduridae) E (Rhipidura f. fuliginosa) – Ten/singles seen each day while on the South Island, with individuals also observed on Ulva Island. A striking black morph bird was observed in a hawking frenzy with several other fantails at Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin.

WATTLEBIRDS E () South Island E (Philesturnus carunculatus) – A unique and striking species in the small ‘New Zealand Wattlebird’ family. Once widespread, now only found on pest-free offshore islands, including Ulva Island, where we had great views.

AUSTRALASIAN ROBINS e (Petroicidae) E ( a. australis) – A stocky and confiding inhabitant of native forests in New Zealand. Amazing views of several at Orokonui Sanctuaru near Dunedin, and several heard/seen in Fiordland. [‘Stewart Island Robin’ (Petroica a. rakiura)] – Endemic subspecies to Stewart Island. Up to 20 friendly birds were encountered on Ulva Island. E (Petroica m. macrocephala) – A pretty and petite robin with a high-pitched song. Singles observed at Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin, on Ulva Island, and Fiordland. [‘Auckland Islands Tomtit’ (Petroica m. marrineri)] – Several birds observed close to the beach on Enderby Island. Not as distinct a subspecies as those on The Snares.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 17 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020

Two endemic representatives of the Australasian Robin family – a Tomtit (L) from Enderby Island, and a South Island Robin (R) at Orokonui near Dunedin © M Breckenridge.

LARKS (Alaudidae) Eurasian Skylark I (Alauda arvensis) – An individual observed bringing food to a nest right outside the albatross hide at Taiaroa Head near Dunedin, and a couple of birds at Glentanner.

GRASSBIRDS & ALLIES (Locustellidae) New Zealand Fernbird E (Poodytes p. punctatus) – One or two birds observed by some while at Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin.

SWALLOWS (Hirundinidae) Welcome Swallow e (Hirundo neoxena) – Singles observed in flight around Dunedin, Te Anau and north of Queenstown.

WHITE-EYES, YUHINAS & ALLIES (Zosteropidae) e (Zosterops l. lateralis) – Colonized New Zealand from in the early 1800’s. Singles/tens observed on several occasions on the mainland, Campbell, Enderby, Ulva and Stewart Islands.

THRUSHES & ALLIES (Turdidae) Song Thrush I (Turdus philomelos) – One or two individuals observed by some at Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin and on Enderby Island. Eurasian Blackbird I (Turdus merula) – Singles observed on several occasions, including Campbell, Enderby, Ulva and Stewart Islands.

STARLINGS (Sturnidae) European Starling I (Sturnus vulgaris) – Singles/tens observed on several occasions, hundreds around Queenstown. Singles observed on Macquarie (!), Enderby and Stewart Islands.

ACCENTORS (Prunellidae) Dunnock I (Prunella modularis) – Seen by some on Enderby Island and around Dunedin and Queenstown.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 OLD WORLD SPARROWS (Passeridae) House Sparrow I (Passer domesticus) – Tens around Dunedin, Te Anau, Queenstown, and on Stewart Island.

WAGTAILS & PIPTS (Motacillidae) Australasian [New Zealand] Pipit (Anthus n. novaeseelandiae) [‘New Zealand Pipit’ (Anthus n. aucklandicus)] – The subspecies found on Campbell and Auckland Islands. We observed several confiding individuals on Campbell and Enderby Islands.

FINCHES, EUPHONIAS & ALLIES (Fringillidae) Common Chaffinch I (Fringilla coelebs) – Singles observed at Milford Sound and near Twizel. European Greenfinch I (Chloris chloris) – Singles observed at Orokonui Sanctuary near Dunedin and in Queenstown. Lesser Redpoll I (Acanthis cabaret) – Tens observed on several occasions, including all the Sub- Antarctic islands, apart from The Snares. European Goldfinch I (Carduelis carduelis) – Singles observed around Dunedin and north of Queenstown.

OLD WORLD BUNTINGS (Emberizidae) Yellowhammer I (Emberiza citrinella) – Singles observed by some at Orokonui Sanctuary and north of Queenstown.

One of many confiding ‘New Zealand Pipits’ (L) on Enderby Island, and a pair of young bull Southern Elephant Seals (R) jostling on Macquarie Island © M Breckenridge.

MAMMALS

RABBITS (Leporidae) European Rabbit I (Oryctolagus cuniculus) – Singles in fields near Dunedin and Queenstown.

EARED SEALS (Otariidae) Antarctic Fur Seal (Arctocephalus gazella) – Single/s on Macquarie Island near the base. New Zealand [Australasian] Fur Seal e () – Singles observed on several occasions at sea and on land. New Zealand [Hooker’s] Sea Lion E (Phocarctos hookeri) – Endangered, with a total population of

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 19 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020 10,000 making it possibly the world’s rarest sea lion species. Singles on Campbell Island and a large colony on Enderby Island.

SEALS (Phocidae) Southern Elephant Seal (Mirounga leonina) – Hundreds of these giant and flatulent species observed brawling, lounging and snoring while on Macquarie Island.

BEAKED WHALES (Ziphidae) Shepherd’s [Tasman’s] Beaked Whale L (Tasmacetus shepherdi) – Two or three individuals observed porpoising several times in rough conditions approximately 20 nautical miles NW of Macquarie Island. A distinctive, but rarely observed species, with most sightings from New Zealand, Tasmania, and Argentina.

MARINE DOLPHINS (Delphinidae) Common Bottlenose Dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) – Multiple pods observed in Dusky and Doubtful Sounds. Killer Whale [Orca] (Orcinus orca) – A loose pod of at least 10 individuals gave great views as they porpoised close to the ship while anchored offshore of Lusitania Bay at Macquarie Island.

A nesting colony of King Penguins at Sandy Bay on Macquarie Island © M Breckenridge.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 20 Sub-Antarctic Islands of New Zealand, 2020