JULY 2017 | Our 39th Year AndrewHarper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

GRAND CHATEAUX, GOURMET CUISINE, PIONEERING WINERIES COVER PHOTOGRAPH Château de la Treyne / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER COUNTRY HOTELS OF THE DORDOGNE THIS MONTH

he Dordogne is one of France’s of the war. The region later prospered BORDEAUX TO CAHORS On a 10-day trip through the Dordogne and Lot most entrancing regions, with thanks to its wine, with the river acting valleys, I explored one of the most beautiful and a cinematic beauty that seems as a conduit to the more populous north, T culturally rich areas of France...... 1-7 almost too perfect to be real. Curv- but a vine pest and railroads conspired to ing gracefully through a landscape of ruin this trade. The Dordogne became a vineyards, pastures and orchards, the backwater, ensuring that its idyllic land- PANAMA CITY UPDATE The capital’s old city, Casco Viejo, has emerged Dordogne River is often lined with steep scape remained more or less unmarred as a fascinating destination...... 8-9 hills and limestone bluffs riddled with by modernity. caves. And on seemingly every convenient But the Hundred Years’ War (1337- rise stands a château, sometimes alone, 1453) is relatively recent history. Cro- MEXICO CITY REVISITED A boutique hotel in the upscale Polanco district sometimes surrounded by a medieval Magnons who lived in the area left a rich provided a fine urban sanctuary...... 10-11 village of golden stone. legacy of cave paintings and etchings, The Dordogne valley looks like a dating back some 15,000-plus years. The  Find additional stories, video and more fairy tale now, but it owes its appearance astonishingly sophisticated compositions photography of my trips at AndrewHarper.com. to having been the front line during the at Lascaux are the most famous, and the Andrew Harper travels anonymously and Hundred Years’ War. Richard the Lion- recently opened replica, Lascaux IV, is pays full rate for all lodging, meals and heart occupied the imposing Château a highlight of the region. And before the related travel expenses. Since the launch of de Beynac, and not far away at Castillon Cro-Magnons arrived, Neanderthals this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels (now known as Castillon-la-Bataille), the lived in the Dordogne for hundreds of and restaurants have been selected on a English and French fought the final battle thousands of years. The valley has an completely independent basis.

Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Exterior, garden pool, our Grand Standing Room, roasted pork at Bistrot de la Place, and river trout at the Gastronomic Restaurant at Le Vieux Logis / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

unusually strong link with deep human On the edge of the tiny, tidy village of Our first accommodation, a Comfort history, and sometimes the connection Trémolat, Le Vieux Logis occupies a Room (one step up from a Standard), was feels astonishingly palpable. small collection of buildings overlooking small but pretty, with wood floors, a queen formal topiary-studded gardens, a swim- bed, a table with a coffeemaker, a tiny work fter renting a car in Bordeaux, it ming pool and a broad lawn fringed with desk and a towering antique wardrobe Atook all my willpower to press on mature poplars. A former farm dating that concealed the minibar and a televi- through the vineyards of Saint-Emilion to the 16th century, Le Vieux Logis feels sion. Windows shaded by heavy brown to Bergerac, a lesser-known region that comfortably worn-in but not worn-out. and green canvas drapes overlooked the nowadays makes wines of real quality and The two lounges to the left of reception gardens. In the marble-floored bath, the interest. Look for rich reds from Péchar- have plush furnishings upholstered in white-tile shower was separate from the mant and carefully crafted Sauternes-like burgundy velvet and tartan wool, invit- tub. As I had requested a larger room if whites from picturesque Monbazillac. ing relaxation by the fire. A third lounge one became available, the staff moved us Having enjoyed an impressive tasting at to the right, beyond the bar, has a cozy, after our first night to a nearby Grand Château Tour des Gendres, we headed clubby vibe, with wood paneling, leather Standing Room, a double upgrade. This to my longtime recommendation in the armchairs and another woodburning category is much better suited to a couple, region, Le Vieux Logis. fireplace. Overall, the atmosphere is styl- with more storage and a larger bath. In many ways, this 23-room property ish without being trendy. This is a hotel The staff provided similarly thought- is my ideal of a French country hotel. with real charm. ful service throughout our stay. Too often I sit in a lounge or by a swimming pool without acknowledgment from passing BORDEAUX DORDOGNE employees. But at Le Vieux Logis, wher- ever we chose to relax, we had to wait only DO LASCAUX IV a minute or two before someone came 5 RD OG NE R. BERGERAC FONT-DE-GAUME by to inquire if we needed anything. In 4 1 & LES COMBARELLES both dining options too, the service was MONBAZILLAC CHATEAU SARLAT 1 Le Vieux Logis (94) DE BEYNAC polished and professional. We had an 2 Château de la Treyne (96) VEZAC elegant dinner of seasonal small plates 3 Château de Mercuès (92) LA ROQUE- 2 CHATEAU TOUR in the airy Michelin-starred Gastronomic 4 Château des Vigiers (86) GAGEAC DES GENDRES Restaurant, and in Bistrot de la Place, a 5 Les Sources de Caudalie (95) ROCAMADOUR casual, friendly spot down the street CHATEAU DE BONAGUIL LOT also run by Le Vieux Logis, I relished the LOT R. PUY-L’EVEQUE deceptively simple, deeply flavorful dishes PECH MERLE PARIS CLOS 3 accompanied by excellent local wines. GARO TRIGUEDINA CHATEAU DORDOGNE N BORDEAUX NE CAHORS SAINT-CIRQ LOT LAGREZETTE rom Le Vieux Logis, we made day R LAPOPIE . Ftrips along the Vézère Valley, visiting 020 40 MI prehistoric sites such as Font-de-Gaume, 020 40 KM a cave where you can see 19,000-year-

France National Capitals Cities 250,000-899,999 International Boundaries Major Rivers 0210 0 40 Miles Cities 75,000-249,999 Adminastrative Boundaries Intermediate Rivers HIDEAWAYAdministrative Capitals Cities 25,000-74,999 REPORT JULY 2017 Highways Lakes Cities 3,000,000+ Cities 0-24,999 2 Primary Roads 0210 0 40 KM Cities 900,000-2,999,999 Minor Primary Roads Local Primary Roads Liqueurs at Distillerie Louis Roque old paintings in situ; Les Combarelles, a massive wood mantelpiece, walls paneled smaller cave rich with similarly ancient in red silk damask and a wide Aubusson engravings; and, farther north, Lascaux tapestry. We had a delicious candlelit IV. One of the most spectacular stretches dinner of white asparagus with a walnut of the Dordogne River starts just east of crust, morel duxelle and lemon sabayon; Le Vieux Logis, where immense castles flawlessly cooked local lamb with multi- and steep medieval villages appear on the colored carrots; and a delicate dessert of horizon like film sets. In season, this is mille-feuille topped with vanilla custard the stretch for a cruise in a gabare (tradi- and orange gelée. Our knowledgeable tional wooden cargo ship) or a leisurely and personable waiter also acted as PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER / paddle in a canoe. sommelier, recommending some fine We visited in early spring, which Cahors pairings, both red and white. In meant that no cruises or canoe rentals summer, it’s also possible to dine on the CRAFT SPIRITS were yet available, and some of the broad terrace overlooking the river. We bout 10 minutes from the Château de la region’s Michelin-starred restaurants had an apéritif there each evening as ATreyne, on a rather unpromising street were closed. In compensation, we had the sun set. After dinner, I liked to take in Souillac, the Distillerie Louis Roque still major sites like the Château de Beynac my digestif in the adjacent wood-beamed produces its spirits largely by hand, going so and the extraordinary gardens of Fragonard salon, with its Renaissance-era far as to manually apply labels and sealing wax. Marqueyssac almost entirely to our­- woodburning fireplace and comfy sofas, One of the English-speaking employees, Jessica, selves, and ordinarily overcrowded or sometimes in the wood-paneled library led us on a tour of the facility, including through towns like La Roque-Gageac and Sarlat just off the bar. the barrel-aging room and the distilling room, were blessedly quiet. Our palatial junior suite, Louis XIII, where the copper stills looked as if they might A little past the Dordogne’s most also overlooked the river and came with have been borrowed from the adjacent museum. famous towns stands the remarkable parquet floors and Fortuny-like red It was fascinating to learn, for example, that the distillery uses only the fruit in its walnut Château de la Treyne, a romantic silk damask fabric covering the walls. liqueurs, harvested in late June, as opposed to castle perched on the edge of a limestone Serpentine wooden columns supported the walnut itself, which develops in autumn. I bluff above the river. Surrounded by a canopy over the firm queen bed, and a quite enjoyed the well-balanced Apéri Noix, a almost 300 acres of formal gardens and large inlaid work desk bore a silver tray sweet vermouth-like apéritif that would surely forest, the château’s central tower dates with complimentary treats: walnut cake, be superb in a Manhattan, as well as the Eau from the 14th century, but most of the candied walnuts, prunes in Pineau des de Noix, a 40-proof liqueur redolent of walnut 17-room hotel was built some 300 years Charentes liqueur and a crystal decanter and cherries that started syrupy but finished later. The small, barrel-vaulted entry hall of walnut wine (like slightly nutty sweet dry. The plum brandies were also delicious: The barely hints at the grandeur of the rest vermouth). A contemporary striped sofa two-year-old La Vieille Prune had a wonderful of the castle. faced a wardrobe concealing the minibar Mirabelle flavor mixed with cinnamon, whereas The most spectacular space is the and television. In the hall, a closet afforded the eight-year brandy felt richer and calmer, building more slowly and finishing on a Louis XIII salon, home to the château’s plenty of storage. The modern red-marble satisfyingly woodsy note. We spent about an Michelin-starred restaurant, with a soar- bath felt luxurious, with a deep Jacuzzi hour on our casual and friendly private tour, ing ceiling of deep octagonal coffers, a tub, separate shower with a rainfall head and I highly recommend doing the same if craft spirits are at all of interest. Louis XIII salon, white asparagus, lamb with sweet potato purée, gardens, and our junior suite at Château de la Treyne

/ PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER JULY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 Exterior, view of the Lot River from our Junior Suite, cliffside pool, Junior Suite bed and sitting area, monogrammed towel, and view from our bath at Château de Mercuès

and side jets, a single well-lit vanity and performed in its cellar nightclub. The is on the piano nobile (originally its rooms walls covered in wood-framed mirrors. hotel closed a few years later, and the served as lounges), it had soaring ceil- Fresh flower arrangements decorated current owner, Georges Vigouroux, bought ings surrounded by elaborate moldings, the entire junior suite. I also appreciated the property as much for its vineyards capping walls papered in burgundy and judicious technological touches, such as as its castle. He dug up the front lawn to gold. In the parquet-floored living room, an iPod dock. build an underground winery, sometimes a dramatic black Empire daybed with Ever-present management and well- drilling through solid rock, to create bronze bust finials faced a marble-topped trained, friendly staff ensured that our one of France’s first “design” wineries table and a nonfunctional fireplace. The stay was a pleasure from start to finish. I intended to draw tourists. The restored round bedroom, with a canopied king checked out with real regret and turned front garden is its roof. bed, occupied part of the turret, with south, heading away from the Dordogne The personable general manager, walls some six feet thick. The work desk River into the Lot Valley. We paused in Yann Potet, gave us a tour of the facility, its was tucked into a curious, windowless the ridiculously vertical medieval town of contemporary design a striking contrast niche in the wall, hidden behind a door. Rocamadour — a madhouse in summer but with the rest of the hotel, and organized The television was also covert, concealed almost empty when we visited — as well a tasting of its wines. I associate Cahors within a gilded mirror. as the lesser-known-but-no-less-dramatic with tannic, sometimes impenetrable Tall windows overlooked the gardens town of Saint-Cirq Lapopie. In between is Malbecs, but these wines had excellent facing the entrance and the sweeping the cave of Pech Merle, notable for both balance and integration. Try the rich Lot Valley. The double window in the prehistoric paintings and its forests of and complex 2011 Cuvée Malbec 6666 bath presented my favorite panorama. stalactites and stalagmites. From Saint- or the forceful 2009 Malbec Cahors, the Mirrors affixed to its shutters hung over Cirq Lapopie, we followed the Lot River, château’s “icon” wine. Even the Chenin the dual vanities, but when we opened which carves a curvaceous half-canyon Blanc, which doesn’t qualify as Cahors them, we could see a lengthy stretch of through the landscape, with a wall of because it’s white, deserves attention, the river and a vast swath of unspoiled limestone always looming over one bank with ripe fruit and impressive focus. pasture alongside it. I loved brushing or the other. Potet proved extremely knowledgeable my teeth each morning as the sun rose, about the wines and Cahors terroir in casting the river and the landscape in a ocated just past the region’s capital, general; had I not known he was the rosy glow. The red-marble bath itself was L Cahors, the Château de Mercuès general manager, I would have guessed otherwise not entirely to my taste. The is visible from miles away, perched high he was a sommelier. large tub was European in style, with a on a hill rising steeply from the Lot. The The Château de Mercuès now has hand-held shower (there was no walk-in 13th-century castle served as the home 30 guest rooms in addition to its world- stall), and to the right of the sinks was a for the bishops of Cahors (the names of class winery. We reserved a Junior Suite, rather incongruous alcove clad in silver which are written in a chapel inside) and a personable staff member led us to prism paper and furnished with a clear until France officially separated church La Tour d’Angle (the corner tower), the Lucite armchair. Mrs. Harper dubbed it and state in 1905 and evicted the clergy. door of which opened to the hotel bar. the “disco nook.” It became one of the first 10 members Fortunately, three doors separated the The newly Michelin-starred Le Duèze of Relais & Châteaux in 1959, and in bar from the bedroom, ensuring that we also mixed the traditional and contem- the 1970s, Nina Simone and Edith Piaf always slept in peace. Because the suite porary, with ornate Empire stucco work

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2017 / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER VINEYARD VISITS

ordeaux sucks up all the oxygen, leaving little air for the wines of the Dordogne Band Lot valleys. But vintners in both regions have rededicated themselves to quality in recent years, producing wines worthy of far more attention than they receive. We visited three wineries during our stay, in addition to the Château de Mercuès, and discovered delicious bottlings in each.

Château Tour des Gendres Secluded on a hill, this biodynamic winery has been a driving force in changing Bergerac wines from simple to serious. Winemaker- owners Luc and Martine de Conti met us when we arrived, and the charming Martine led our tour and tasting. Though my French is halting from lack of practice, my appreciation of the wines was obvious, and she offered to give us some tastings from the fermentation tanks as well. The Sauvignon Blancs (including one aged partially in amphorae) were delicious, as were the ripe and well-structured Merlot-based blends. But I absolutely fell in love with the rich and refined Conti-ne Périgourdine Muscadelle and the sensational Le Saussignac, a well-balanced Sauternes-like blend (including an eagle bursting from one of Chenin Blanc and Sémillon redolent of honey, green peppercorn and orange peel. corner) on stylishly beige walls and, in Château Lagrézette This award-winning Cahors winery looks like a proper grand a smaller back room, brightly colored French estate, with vineyards sweeping up to a hill crowned by a 15th-century paintings inspired by Velázquez’s “Las château. The castle is private, but we had a fascinating tour of the gravity-flow Meninas.” We opted for the truffle-themed winery below, which was built in 1992. I was amazed to learn that each layer of soil menu, with dishes such as an “open ravi- was preserved as the winery was dug into the hillside, and then later replaced one olo” topped with lightly crusted foie gras by one, in order to maintain the integrity of the vineyard’s terroir. The premier Le accompanied by asparagus and truffle Pigeonnier wines from beneath the castle were superb; the Viognier tasted fragrant jus, and tender veal sweetbreads with and fat while maintaining its focus, and the Malbec offered gorgeously rich, dark black truffles from Lalbenque and a fruit, a note of violets and elegant, well-integrated tannins. Also try the beautiful rich potato purée. Buffet breakfasts in and deep Paragon Massaut, from vineyards near Puy-l’Evêque. this space were equally delightful; after the first day, our cheerful server always Clos Triguedina A short drive southeast of picturesque Puy-l’Evêque (where we remembered exactly how we liked our had a passable lunch with a magnificent view at the Hôtel Bellevue), Clos Trigue- coffee and eggs. dina was the first winery to produce a 100 percent Malbec in Cahors. Winemakers We used Château de Mercuès as a had always blended in Merlot and sometimes Tannat. The region plans to finally base for exploring the Cahors region classify its vineyards in the near future, and Clos Triguedina stands in grand cru along the ever-scenic Lot River, enjoy- territory. Owners Jean-Luc and Sabine Baldès showed us the century-old vines ing tastings at nearby wineries such as that make Triguedina’s preeminent wine, Probus. The 2007 vintage vibrates in the Château Lagrézette and Clos Triguedina mouth, with notes of leather and spice adding complexity to its dark fruit. They and exploring medieval towns such as also showed us the construction site of a sleek new tasting room, complete with a Luzech, Puy-l’Evêque and Cahors itself. space in which to do a tea ceremony for VIP Asian visitors. Don’t miss the chance to try The New Black Wine made in the style of old Cahors, in which some of the e then drove northwest from the grapes are heated and dried before fermentation. WLot through unspoiled countryside, stopping at the magnificent half-ruined Château Lagrézette / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER Château de Bonaguil en route to our final hotel, the Château des Vigiers, a 25-room golf resort near the exquisite Monbazillac wine region. Centered on a 16th-century castle fronted by immaculate fairways, a handful of enigmatic ruins and an octagonal dovecote, the property seemed impressive at first. But although I could have happily spent three or four days exploring the vineyards of Monbazillac, I was soon glad that I’d booked just one night at the Château des Vigiers. Golfing

JULY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Château des Vigiers / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

DORDOGNE BOOKSHELF

visitor to the Dordogne could be forgiven for A thinking that the Cro-Magnons, who arrived in the region some 40,000 years ago, were the area’s first inhabitants. But Neanderthals lived in the Dordogne for approximately 350 millennia before the Cro-Magnon interlopers appeared. Author Beebe Bahrami worked in the field with archaeologists excavating Dordogne Neanderthal sites for several years, and in her new book, Café Neandertal, she seeks to rehabilitate the reputation of our ancient and enigmatic cousins. She uses the new spelling of the German valley in which the species was first identified in order to distinguish Neandertals, the 27 holes of the resort is doubtless a ering an ancient locker room with badly which, evidence shows, pleasure; I just wish I could say the same stained carpeting. I have experienced were quite intelligent of the treatments in its highly touted few spas that were more poorly laid out and adaptable, from the stereotypically Maria Galland Beauty Spa. A short walk or maintained. clumsy and barbaric from the château, this faces a small Life in the château was only a slight Neanderthals. Bahrami relates her own experi- and uninviting outdoor swimming pool. improvement. At check-in, I felt less than ence learning about Neanderthal culture, which Inside, the spa feels claustrophobic, with encouraged when the front desk asked if keeps the book readable and lively, interweaving the hot tub and sauna pressed against we understood the meaning of “turndown interviews with various experts she meets. Nor is windows looking into the narrow entry service.” Our Prestige Room had fine golf- the beauty of the Dordogne lost on Bahrami; she hall. Mrs. Harper had a perfunctory course views, an original mantelpiece devotes ample prose to the pleasures of present- and occasionally asymmetric scrub and and attractive blue-and-white toile de day southwestern France. I found the book to be a desultory massage that was nothing Jouy wallpaper, but its green-dotted beige an excellent introduction to what we have discov- more than an exercise in moisturization. carpet was in dire need of replacement. ered about the Dordogne’s Neanderthal history. The therapist also failed to offer tea or I liked the soaking tub and well-lit dual But, as Bahrami makes clear, we will likely always have far more questions than answers. water afterward. Meanwhile, I wandered vanities, but the curtained white-tile

BOOK COVER: COURTESY OF COUNTERPOINT PRESS COUNTERPOINT OF COURTESY COVER: BOOK through the rest of the facilities, discov- shower stall was unattractive. Downstairs, we relaxed in one of the several clubby lounges for some time Le Vieux Logis A94 without anyone asking if we might like a LIKE The warm, attentive and anticipatory service; the plush but cozy décor; the fine gourmet restaurant and drink. And because the Michelin-starred charming bistro; the outdoor pool amid formal gardens. DISLIKE Even Grand Standing Rooms aren’t especially large; book an Apartment if possible. GOOD TO KNOW The Michelin-starred La Tour des Vents, under the same restaurant was closed, we were obliged ownership, is an ideal stop for lunch near the vineyards of Monbazillac and Bergerac. Grand Standing Room, $430; to dine in Brasserie Le Chai, a former Apartment, $540. Le Bourg, Trémolat. Tel. (33) 5-53-22-80-06. vieux-logis.com winery. My cep mushroom velouté and duck confit both tasted fine, but the Château de la Treyne A96 presentations were unrelievedly brown LIKE The dramatic blufftop setting; the excellent cuisine served in palatial surroundings; the gardens and hiking trails; our regal Junior Suite with magnificent river views. DISLIKE The outdoor pool is a rather long walk from and unappealing. the château; the “house apéritif” and local prune brandy were shamefully overpriced, which we discovered only too In short, the Château des Vigiers has late. GOOD TO KNOW The Michelin-starred Pont de l’Ouysse is a five-minute drive away. Deluxe Room, $530; Junior few redeeming qualities other than its golf Suite, $800. La Treyne, Lacave. Tel. (33) 5-65-27-60-60. chateaudelatreyne.com course. Instead, finish your circle of the Château de Mercuès A92 Dordogne and Lot regions at Les Sources LIKE The panoramic views of the Lot Valley; the on-site winery; the stylish and historic restaurant; our Junior de Caudalie, set amid the vineyards of Suite’s dramatic Empire décor and memorable views; the helpful and cheerful service; the large outdoor swimming Château Smith Haut Lafitte, about half pool. DISLIKE Our Junior Suite’s lack of a proper shower; its absence of a master light switch; its pretty but very an hour from Bordeaux’s airport. With creaky wood floor. GOOD TO KNOW Under the same ownership is Château de Haute-Serre, an acclaimed Cahors winery and restaurant 30 minutes to the southeast. The Michelin two-star restaurant Le Gindreau is 15 minutes a Michelin two-star restaurant and a in the opposite direction. Junior Suite, $400; Suite, $460. Route du Château, Mercuès. Tel. (33) 5-65-20-00-01. celebrated spa offering “vinothérapie” chateaudemercues.com treatments, Les Sources de Caudalie ends A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. a swing through southwestern France in Visit AndrewHarper.com for information. Château des Vigiers (86) was not up to the required standard. appropriate style. H

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2017 NOTABLE RESTAURANTS

Le Bistro des Glycines In between touring prehistoric caves and troglodytic castles, I recommend lunching at this contemporary restaurant on the outskirts of Les Eyzies, within walking distance of the National Museum of Prehistory. Rather than eating in the main restaurant, we opted for a delicious lunch in the bistro: rosy confit of foie gras with sweet and spicy cubes of apple gelée, and flaky (but underseasoned) cod with walnuts and carrots, accompanied by a minerally glass of Bergerac Sec. 4 Avenue de Laugerie, Les Eyzies. Tel. (33) 5-53-06-97-07.

Les Jardins d’Harmonie Tucked into a quiet courtyard in the heart of old Sarlat, this restaurant stylishly contrasts its ancient stone walls with pink wicker-backed dining chairs. I started with a creamy root-vegetable velouté, followed by a muffin-shaped pie containing foie gras, shrimp, scallops and mushrooms. Even better was my tender saddle of lamb with a crunchy, crackling-like layer on top. The walnut cake in vanilla cream was heart-stoppingly rich — and I loved every bite. Place André Malraux, Sarlat. Tel. (33) 5-53-31-06-69.

Jehan de Valon Because we visited out of season, we had the popular hamlet of Roca- madour almost to ourselves. This restaurant is likely the best option in this touristy medieval town, with floor-to-ceiling windows affording views of the valley and competent if unexciting cuisine: langoustine ravioli in poultry consommé, fresh and clean-tasting hake fillets in sauce vierge with a root-vegetable tarte tatin, and an airy soufflé flambéed with Grand Marnier. Cité Médiévale, Rocamadour. Tel. (33) 5-65-33-63-08.

L’O à la Bouche On a broad square just outside the medieval center of Cahors, friendly and chic L’O à la Bouche has a playful décor, with an occasional Baroque-style paint- ing set into the panel molding of its gray and dusty-purple walls. I loved my appetizer of caramelized sweetbreads with savory escargots and slightly bitter rapini in a rich vinaigrette, as well as my main course of veal with a delectable crust topped with batons of root vegetables. 56 Allée Fénelon, Cahors. Tel. (33) 5-65-35-65-69.

O’ Plaisir des Sens Resolutely modern, the multiroomed O’ Plaisir des Sens stands near the heart of the most touristy stretch of the Dordogne River. Nevertheless, it remains as popular with locals as tourists, and during our lunch in the gourmet section, we heard only French (the other area is a more casual bistro). I opted for upscale renditions of classic dishes, such as little cups of escargots and cep mushrooms in garlic-parsley sauce, and a pastry-wrapped tournedos of duck in truffle-studded sauce Périgueux. A molten chocolate-filled parcel of chocolate pastry, paired with a glass of Famille Laplace Maydie fortified Tannat, was an indulgent dessert. Sous la Grande Vigne, La Roque-Gageac. Tel. (33) 5-53-29-58-53.

La Tour des Vents From this Michelin-starred restaurant under the same ownership as Le Vieux Logis, you can see a wide swath of Monbazillac vineyards and the whole of the distant city of Bergerac. The lunch tasting menu included a refreshing, Russian- inspired amuse bouche of beet ice cream atop duck tartare, a lobe of foie gras with corn purée and morels, and tender, meaty pigeon with bitter orange-glazed endive. A honeyed Monbazillac paired beautifully with some local cheeses as well as a melt-in-your-mouth dessert of amaretto cream-filled pastry accompanied by square apple slices stacked like little reams of paper. Le Moulin de Malfourat, Monbazillac. Tel. (33) 5-53-58-30-10.

Le Vinois After we settled in at this casual, contemporary restaurant near the Château de Mercuès, the waiter asked if we preferred to speak French or English. We requested English, to which he replied, “But I don’t speak English!” The food, including foie gras with gingerbread, and lamb with carrots and a crock of chickpeas, was simple but satisfying. Still, I couldn’t help wishing that Le Gindreau, a Michelin two-star restaurant nearby, hadn’t been closed. Le Bourg, Caillac. Tel. (33) 5-65-30-53-60.

From top: Fillets of hake at Jehan de Valon; poached pear at Le Bistro des Glycines; foie gras at La Tour des Vents; sweet- breads and escargots at L'O à la Bouche; and a tournedos of duck at O' Plaisir des Sens / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

JULY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 A HISTORIC DISTRICT REVIVED we walked into a small, dark room with concrete walls and a scratched-wood table covered in paperwork. Neither a PANAMA CITY’S CASCO VIEJO doorman nor a receptionist greeted us. A few minutes later, a man appeared and, having reviewed our reservation with indifference, nonchalantly said that the hotel’s only restaurant — one of our primary reasons for our stay — was closed. There being no elevator, he gruffly agreed to help carry one of our bags to our room. The two flights of steep stone steps looked as though they hadn’t been mopped since the hotel’s debut in 2010. Our suite proved to be spacious, with a separate living room, high ceilings, dark polished wood floors and a fully equipped kitchen. The bedroom was comfortable, and the bath had a nicely tiled shower. However, a concealed water heater rever- berated like a portable generator. And views of colonial townhouses from New Orleans-style balconies, as advertised on the hotel’s website, turned out to be vistas of a derelict building and an unattractive barrio backstreet. The receptionist did not seem espe-

The American Trade Hotel / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER cially surprised when we said we intended to depart the same day. ntil recently, most visitors to the restored colonial buildings have been We switched to the 50-room Ameri- Panama City were either busi- converted into high-end restaurants, can Trade Hotel, which opened in fall U ness travelers or tourists pausing boutiques, artisanal markets and hotels. 2013, housed within a 1917 historic build- in the capital on their way to the beaches Having read several positive reviews ing just a three-minute walk down the and rain forests of the isthmus. But the city about Las Clementinas, a six-suite street. The airy lobby featured ornate is now evolving into a colorful destination, hideaway hotel with a gourmet restau- columns, quatrefoil hand-painted tiles, with activities and attractions worthy of rant on the edge of Casco Viejo, we were rattan-backed rockers and tall windows. a three- to four-night stay. greatly looking forward to our stay. Alas, Charming staff members checked us in, We decided to spend our first few the experience failed completely to live scheduled a private canal and city excur- days in the historic Casco Viejo quarter, up to expectations. Our driver stopped sion for the next day, and provided a list of designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in front of a grand 1930s apartment dining recommendations. We were escort- in 2003. Bypassing the dense skyscrapers, building with an unremarkable door. ed to our Panorama suite, which offered a our driver took the Corredor Sur along Unsure whether we were at the wrong 180-degree view of the neighborhood: the the Pacific coastline to “Old Town.” There, address or had come to a rear entrance, bay peppered with ships waiting for their

Terrace pool, central courtyard, and our Panorama suite at the American Trade Hotel / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2017 Our Condo Suite, and its view at the Waldorf Astoria Panama / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER the pool looked as though it could use a good scrub, and the accumulation of leaves and dead bugs in the water was uninviting. While we were there, the sushi restaurant was closed, but BRIO Brasserie was an appealing option. The Waldorf is conveniently located (especially for those on business), and the staff are amiable, but overall the property is not up to the standards of the brand. When it first opened, the hotel looked out across the bay, but a high-rise built in 2015 has turn to pass through the Panama Canal, at the restaurant, and there are many blocked the view. For leisure travelers, Frank Gehry’s multihued Biomuseo and better options within walking distance. the American Trade Hotel is a much more the high-rise-studded downtown in the With its gracious staff and old-world appealing choice and provides a genuine distance. Its interior décor featured white charm, the American Trade Hotel seam- sense of place. H wainscoting, floor-to-ceiling windows lessly blends historic architecture with framed by ivory curtains and black trim, 20th-century conveniences. Despite Biomuseo, located at the entrance to the Panama Canal a small round table complemented by two minor shortcomings — towels at the leather chairs and hardwood floors made pool seemed to be in limited supply, and from logs reclaimed from the bottom of toiletries in the room were not replaced the canal. The bath had a marble vanity every day — it is a delightful property with limited counter space, Aesop toilet- that embodies the spirit of Casco Viejo. ries and an oversize glass walk-in shower. The Waldorf Astoria Panama in There was no door separating the bath downtown Panama City opened in 2013 from the bedroom, so privacy was limited. in advance of the centennial celebrations The air-conditioning was effective, as of the Panama Canal in August 2014. As GEHRY MUSEUM were the high-speed ceiling fans. the first Waldorf Astoria property in Latin Although our accommodations were America, this 130-room hotel set in a colorful jumble of folded shapes located very comfortable, noise from Plaza 36-story tower near the central business A on the far end of the Amador Causeway, Herrera, which fronts the property, could district had my hopes high. Biomuseo stands at the Pacific entrance to the sometimes be heard at night. Compli- At check-in, we were upgraded from a Panama Canal. With more than 44,000 square mentary earplugs provided a solution. Deluxe Room to a Condo Suite. The latter feet of exhibition space, this unconventional (Rooms on the other side of the hotel are featured an open-plan design, with a free-form building has eight display rooms for close to the cathedral, whose bells chime living room appointed with an L-shaped permanent exhibitions related to technology, science and art. Like the Guggenheim Museum throughout the day.) couch, a bedroom with a king-size bed and in Bilbao, Spain, the edifice is asymmetrical The hotel offers a variety of amenities, a small kitchen with a refrigerator and and includes renowned architect Frank Gehry’s including a square pool with underwater microwave. Though the neutral palette trademark sloped metal canopies. In this case, lights flanked by a deck with chaises of the space was relaxing, the furnish- an open-air atrium is encircled by two levels of longues, plus a fitness room. A central ings were worn. The vast stone-tiled bath galleries topped by undulating roof panels of courtyard with tropical plants in cream came with a rainfall shower, but the water different shapes and sizes clad in red, blue, green, pots is furnished with bistro tables, pressure was poor and the temperature yellow and orange. The museum celebrates the Bertoia wire-frame chairs and white- never went hotter than lukewarm. The history and impressive ecological diversity of and-black-striped banquettes. A reading most peculiar characteristic was a long Panama. The emphasis is on the cross-migration room with an Oriental rug, brass lights rectangular glass window above the bed of animal and plant species that took place and a palm-print couch is adjacent to that looked straight into the shower. when the isthmus rose to create a land bridge between North and South America more than 3 the courtyard. The ground floor encom- The property does offer a swimming million years ago. The Worlds Collide exhibition passes a bakery-café, a restaurant for pool with bar service, a deck with skyline highlights the evolutionary progress of species Panamanian-Continental cuisine and a views, a large fitness center and a spa with as they struggled to adapt to new climates and cocktail bar. We rarely saw guests dining an array of treatments. Unfortunately, environments. The impressive (and slightly dizzying) Panamarama display has 10 oversize American Trade Hotel A91 screens that project audiovisual renderings of LIKE Traditional design; modern amenities; gracious staff. DISLIKE Unexceptional restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW environmental experiences, including flying over The calendar of complimentary activities offered by the hotel changes weekly. Super Cuarto, $280; Panorama, $400. a forest canopy, plummeting down a waterfall and Plaza Herrera. Tel. (507) 211-2000. acehotel.com swimming with sharks. I recommend setting aside preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. enough time to stroll through the lush six-acre A Las Clementinas (84) and the Waldorf Astoria Panama (89) were not up to the required standard. biodiversity park. © BIOMUSEUM / FERNANDO ALDA FERNANDO / BIOMUSEUM ©

JULY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 CONTRASTING BOUTIQUE HOTELS A HIT AND A MISS IN MEXICO CITY

espite its extensively report- Cortázar. However, the focal point of the Artes, is a great place to pick up gifts to ed problems with crime and space was an extraordinary spiral rose- take home.) Dpollution, Mexico City remains a wood staircase. The bedroom was the smallest space fascinating metropolis, with tree-lined Having been checked in by friendly in the suite but came equipped with a avenues, verdant parks and numerous and smiling staff, we ascended to our widescreen television, a comfortable fine museums. The capital is at its most Corner Suite. This was spacious, with a bed with a white suede headboard, and beautiful when the purple jacaranda full-size living room featuring a double- a soft leather chair and ottoman set. blooms in early springtime. sided fireplace; clean-lined furnishings; The sumptuousness of our accommoda- I prefer to stay in Polanco, where a subtle palette of gray, black and white; a tions offered a sense of escape from this gourmet restaurants, name-brand shops glass writing desk; and a dining area with huge, bustling city. A well-furnished and high-end galleries combine to create seating for six. The opulent marble bath wraparound terrace was appointed with an upscale, walkable neighborhood. Set contained a powerful rainfall shower with a small lavender plot and four succulent in a seven-story 1950s residential build- eight water outputs, rich wood cabinetry planters, but the view of downtown, with ing with a glass-and-brick exterior, the with a roomy marble countertop and dual its garish billboards and innumerable 35-room Las Alcobas hotel is located on vanities, and a jetted hydrotherapy tub high-rises, was a reminder of the less the district’s main Avenida Presidente (which could be run only by the personal gracious aspects of Mexico City. Masaryk. Ushered through a discreet butler during certain hours of the day). Amenities at Las Alcobas include a entrance, we stepped into a stylish and The artisanal soaps custom-made for small spa with a wide range of massage refined lobby with a mirrored black- the hotel by the local Manos que Curan treatments employing natural oils from marble floor, modern Italian furnishings skin care company were a nice touch. (Its regional herbs, plus Via Corta coffee, and artwork by local painter Roberto flagship store, near the Palacio de Bellas chocolate and almond-and-walnut scrubs. A diminutive gym is also available. There Our Corner Suite at Las Alcobas / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER is no swimming pool, but private yoga and Pilates classes can be arranged. The property also offers two first- rate restaurants, both popular with local residents and guests alike. Anatol serves Italian-influenced seasonal cuisine and is more formal than Dulce Patria, the Mexican restaurant overseen by well- known chef Martha Ortiz. The latter has an exuberant color scheme, with scarlet velvet banquettes, ruby-red wine glasses, metallic gold walls and pink floors. The space, though borderline kitschy, tailors to a wide clientele because of its delicious, constantly changing menu. The spicy mole enchiladas with a requesón-and-squash- blossom filling and grilled plantains were delectable, as were the cornmeal-crusted salmon, and the turnover with corn, tuna and habanero sauce. Las Alcobas is a sophisticated oasis, with staff members who are unfailingly gracious and obliging. Children under age 7 are not permitted at the hotel, so it Las Alcobas A96 is ideal for couples in search of a haven LIKE Convenient location; flawless service; excellent restaurants; custom-made soaps in bath. DISLIKE Lack of peace in the stylish Polanco district. of buzzing hotel bar. GOOD TO KNOW Las Alcobas has recently opened a second hotel under the same name in Further research took us to Down- the Napa Valley. Corner Room, $540; Las Alcobas Suite, $1,420. Presidente Masaryk 390A. Tel. (52) 55-3300-3900. lasalcobas.com town Mexico, a boutique hotel located a

preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. short distance from the Zócalo, Catedral A Downtown Mexico (87) was not up to the required standard. Metropolitana and Templo Mayor. This

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT JULY 2017 From left: Chilacayotes, huazontles, cactus ceviche, and shrimp flautas at Quintonil / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER 17-room property occupies a restored palace, two floors of which are taken up with galleries, boutique shops and food outlets. The reception desk was in a cramped room past a row of scarf, jewelry and hat stores. As well as being hard to spot, it felt tightly packed, with three other couples checking in. The sluggish pace of the casually dressed employees was frustrating, as there was no place to sit. We were offered shots of Herradura tequila by one of the staff members as an apology for a 20-minute wait before eventually being escorted to a service elevator, as the antique steel-and-copper DINING DISCOVERIES elevator was not functioning. (It was not fixed during our stay.) uring my stay in Mexico City, the celebrated Pujol restaurant was closed tempo- The hotel’s modern industrial Drarily as it relocated to the Polanco district. Fortunately, there is no shortage design primarily features concrete of appealing alternatives. Here are the three restaurants that I most enjoyed. walls, cement tiles and brick accents. In the common areas, this décor felt Dulce Patria Even if you’re not staying at Las Alcobas, this colorful spot serving atmospheric, balanced by original stone upscale cuisine inspired by recipes from a variety of Mexican regions is a note- arches and ornate detailing, plus a worthy stop. The spicy mole enchiladas with squash blossom filling and grilled central colonial courtyard with a green plantains were delectable, as was the cornmeal-crusted salmon served with clams canopy of 100-year-old laurel trees. marinated in a chile pepper sauce. Complimentary sweets at the end came on a But our accommodations seemed cold colorful rotating plate. Chef Martha Ortiz’s buzzy restaurant draws in locals and and uninviting. Our Colonial King room tourists alike with its high-quality fare, convenient location and lively atmosphere. had attractive clay-tiled floors and high Anatole France 100. Tel. (52) 55-3300-3999. ceilings but was sparsely decorated and Jaso The charismatic husband-and-wife team Jared Reardon and Sonia Arias are dimly lit. The bath lacked a privacy door, the driving force behind this gourmet establishment. Locally sourced ingredients and the shower was shielded by nothing are used to create contemporary Mediterranean-inspired dishes. The chef’s menu is more than poor-quality ringed shower highly recommended. Attractively presented dishes were served at a choreographed curtains. A step led down to a bedroom pace. Our appetizer of grilled shrimp on a slightly sweet lemon-and-chabacano (a containing a simple queen bed with one native apricot-like fruit) purée, topped by a slice of jamón serrano, was a highlight. centered reading light and a single tan And the artichoke hearts accompanied by toasted almonds, green apple slivers leather slouch chair. The lack of storage and creamy quinoa are not to be missed. Mains included a pavé of salmon with a space, bedside tables and bottled water shiitake mushroom risotto and black-truffle salsa, and fresh seared tuna served was disappointing. The room was stuffy with a lobster, lemon, carrot and black bean salsa. The stark gray interior could and hot, and the air-conditioning was not have used some artwork, and the dim lighting did not make reading the menu an functioning. We called down to the front easy task, but the delicious fare and attentive staff compensated for these flaws. desk to have them send somebody up to Newton 88. Tel. (52) 55-5255-4409. fix it. When nobody arrived, we stopped at the reception on our way out to dinner Quintonil After training at Pujol for a time, talented young chef Jorge Vallejo and mentioned it again. We were brusquely opened this jewel box restaurant, discreetly located on a quiet block perpendicu- told that the electrician would come when lar to the main Avenida Presidente Masaryk. The narrow dining room features a he could. Upon our return two hours later, minimalist décor with light wood paneling and clay pottery. Despite the restaurant’s the issue had still not been resolved. They being full, the noise level never irritated. Vallejo puts fresh produce, primarily eventually brought in four standing fans sourced from his own kitchen garden nearby, at the forefront of the menu. While that were noisier than they were effec- a multicourse tasting menu with optional wine pairings is available, we chose to tive. With no other room available and order à la carte. The sweet shrimp wrapped in zucchini slices over a citrusy squash an early flight the next day, we did our blossom, chile pepper and onion salsa was a standout. The cactus ceviche with best to sleep. beetroot and orange was also a delightfully tangy starter. There is no wrong choice With a young and trendy clientele, among the half-dozen main courses. We chose the braised pork jowl with winter and service and amenities that are both lettuces and a tamale-like corn puff, and a tasty dish of chilacayote squash in a subpar, Downtown Mexico is precisely homemade mole with basil microgreens. The mamey panna cotta with sweetened the sort of contemporary boutique hotel corn crumble and a luscious mamey seed ice cream made for a perfect dessert. that I heartily dislike. H Newton 55. Tel. (52) 55-5280-2680.

JULY 2017 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!

ike most editors, I receive a daily blizzard of L press releases, most of which merit a cursory glance, followed by a sharp tap on the delete key. But, occasionally, one arrives that seems not only interesting, but also to possess some wider significance. A good example of the genre turned up just the other day. It came from One&Only Resorts, several of whose properties I recom- mend. (For many years, One &Only Palmilla in Los Cabos has been a mainstay of the Andrew Harper Readers’ Choice Awards.) The release announced that the company had decided to create a Swirls of topiary in Les Jardins de Marqueyssac, Vézac, Dordogne / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER new division called Nature Resorts. Hitherto, One&Only has been known chiefly for beach properties, most of which are extremely lavish NEW AND NOTEWORTHY and lacking few of the conventional trappings of luxury: high-thread-count Italian linens, expansive Changing Times at Cap Juluca baths clad in entire hillsides of marble, Michelin- For many years, Cap Juluca has been a favorite resort of Harper members. Located starred restaurants helmed by globe-trotting culi- on the Caribbean island of Anguilla, it is set on one of the world’s most beautiful nary celebrities, and so forth. So what’s with the new nature thing? I wondered. My attention firmly white-sand beaches. Created nearly three decades ago by Linda and Charles Hickox, grabbed, I read on. It seems that the intention the property has recently been acquired by Belmond, a company that already owns of Nature Resorts is to offer “once-in-a-lifetime La Samanna in St. Martin and Maroma Resort & Spa on Mexico’s Caribbean coast. experiences,” and its first property, One&Only At the end of the 2017-2018 winter high season, Belmond plans to add 25 beachfront Nyungwe House, will debut in Rwanda this villas and suites, bringing the total number of accommodations to 121. All the existing October. The 22-room resort stands at the edge of rooms will be completely refurbished, and the spa will be significantly enhanced. the Nyungwe National Park, a tract of untouched rain forest containing 13 species of primates, Positano Comes to Miami including chimpanzees. In addition to the wildlife, Eighty-seven years ago, the founder of the Firestone Tire and Rubber Company, Harvey guests are promised “interactive, immersive Firestone, opened The Surf Club on Collins Avenue, in the North Beaches area of experiences with the local community.” In virtu- Miami, for his friends and the glitterati of the day. In March, the club reopened, now ally all the travel trend forecasts for 2017, experts identified the most important development as encased within a striking new 77-room Four Seasons hotel designed by star archi- being a move away from “luxury” to “experiential” tect Richard Meier. And in a considerable coup, the Sersale family, owners of the travel. Apparently, now that the inhabitants of our legendary Le Sirenuse resort in Positano, have been persuaded to open an American global village go just about everywhere, bragging branch of their Michelin-starred La Sponda. Set within the Club’s restored Peacock rights are increasingly hard to acquire; you have Alley, Le Sirenuse Miami will now serve a menu of southern Italian-Mediterranean to do something one of a kind. Furthermore, the cuisine under the supervision of 32-year-old chef Antonio Mermolia from Calabria. near-universal obsession with Instagram requires “unique experiences” in order to facilitate the Singita Upgrades in South Africa and Tanzania construction of a “personal brand.” So here it Set on a private concession within Kruger National Park, Singita Sweni Lodge is an was: a real-life demonstration of the experts’ intimate six-room escape long favored by the publicity-shy. The property recently prescience. Personally, I am lukewarm about reopened following a major upgrade that included the addition of a show kitchen, making predictions, not least because every year, I feel obliged to issue a groveling apology for a glass-walled lounge and an expanded outdoor dining deck. A secluded new Pool having gotten them so abjectly wrong 12 months Suite — which can be connected to an adjacent unit to accommodate a family — offers earlier. But presumably One&Only has done its an additional level of privacy. Another superlative option for families is provided by market research. And as its guests tend to be my Singita Serengeti House in Tanzania, a residence of four suites overlooking the plains readers, I will have to consider what all this entails of the western Serengeti. This, too, has recently been reimagined, with an extended for the Hideaway Report. One&Only may be onto master suite, a full gym, a spa suite, a media room and an updated tennis pavilion. something. For a while now, I have suspected that the ultimate luxuries are no longer beluga and The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Cristal, but places with neither Wi-Fi nor a cell Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, phone connection. So, back to nature it is. P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2017 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Copy Editor Stacy Hollister Photo Editor Arielle Berger