REGIONE LAZIO

REGIONE LAZIO ASSESSORATO ALLA CULTURA, SPETTACOLO, SPORT E TURISMO Where history meets the sea GuideGuide toto thethe archeologicalarcheological treasurestreasures ofof thethe coastcoast ofof LazioLazio

Free distribution REGIONE LAZIO ASSESSORATO ALLA CULTURA, SPETTACOLO, SPORT E TURISMO

Via Rosa Raimondi Garibaldi, 7 00145 Roma Ph. +39 0651681 - Fax +39 0651684134 www.regione.lazio.it Where history meets the sea AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DEL COMUNE DI ROMA Via Parigi, 11 - 00185 Roma Ph. +39 06488991 - Fax +39 064819316 Editorial project: APT Rome Visitor Center Carried out by Vitesse - Rome Via Parigi, 5 - 00185 Roma www.romaturismo.it AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA Scientific Board: Superintendence for DELLA PROVINCIA DI ROMA Archeological Assets of Lazio Via XX Settembre, 26 - 00187 Roma Superintendent Anna Maria Reggiani Ph. +39 06421381 - Fax +39 0642138211 www.oltreroma.it Editorial Supervision/Coordination: AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI FROSINONE Adriana Amici Via Aldo Moro, 465 - 03100 Frosinone Ph. +39 077583381 - Fax +39 0775833837 Text: Alessia Petruzzelli www.apt.frosinone.it AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA Graphics and cartographic drawings: DELLA PROVINCIA DI LATINA N. Pietravalle, S. Ranalli Via Duca del Mare, 19 - 04100 Latina Ph. +39 0773695404 - Fax 0773661266 www.aptlatinaturismo.it Translation: Francesca Caruso AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI RIETI Photos: Archive of the APT of Rome, Simonetta Via Cinthia, 87 - 02100 Rieti Panzironi, Archive of the Superintendence for Ph. +39 0746201146 - Fax +39 0746270446 www.apt.rieti.it Archeological Assets of Lazio

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA On the cover: DELLA PROVINCIA DI VITERBO Gaeta, Viola Tower (Simonetta Panzironi), Piazza dell’Oratorio, 2 - Palazzo Doria Pamphili background image the fortifications of the Roman 01030 San Martino al Cimino (VT) coast in a print of 1557 Ph. +39 07613751 - Fax +39 0761379233 www.apt.viterbo.it www.provincia.vt.it Printed by: Stilgrafica - Roma

The text and illustrations of this publication may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without permission. REGIONE LAZIO

Where history meets the sea

The civilizations and people who inhabited Lazio contributed with their achieve- ments and ingenuity to create the greatness of Roman civilization and, as in a natural process of osmosis, were in turn permeated by it. The power, wealth and politics of Rome lived also outside the City, and bestowed honour and prestige to the people and places Rome was an integral part of. Of these places and these people not enough has been said. The Regione Lazio has deemed it particularly useful and enjoyable to recall, through a simple publication, how the grandeur of Mediterranean civilization that arrived from the sea, landing on the coast of our region - Lazio - has always maintained a relationship of enriching exchange with the sea. “Surprising Lazio! - Where History meets the Sea” aims at divulging history and information regarding Lazio off the beaten track, those places in which history meets the sea and that preserve their traditions and some of the most precious archeological treasures in the world, an authentic heritage of humanity too often overshadowed by the magnificence of the Capital. The intent of promoting knowledge of the refinement and wealth of the most important places on the coast of Lazio led to the idea of accompanying tourists and visitors to all those places that to this day evoke the very origin of our cultu- ral history, through the visit not only of spectacular archeological sites, but also of the most famous seaside resorts, in a brief journey through the local traditions of the present and the fascination of the past.

Luigi Ciaramelletti Councilor for the Promotion of Culture, Entertainment, Sports and Tourism REGIONE LAZIO

Where history meets the sea

Index Itinerary Page Page Itinerary

1 VULCI • CASTRO 3 7 TARQUINIA 2 3 CIVITAVECCHIA 11 15 CERVETERI • S. MARINELLA • 4 S. SEVERA (PYRGI) 5 FREGENE • FIUMICINO 19 (PORT OF TRAJAN) 23 OSTIA ANTICA • SEA OF ROME 6 7 LAVINIO • ARDEA • TORVAIANICA 27 TOR S. LORENZO 35 ANZIO • NETTUNO 8 9 TORRE ASTURA • SATRICUM 39 43 S. FELICE CIRCEO • SABAUDIA 10 11 TERRACINA • VIA APPIA 47 51 SPERLONGA • FONDI 12 13 GAETA • FORMIA 55 59 MINTURNO 14 ITINERARY 1 VulciVulci •• CastroCastro

From the sea to groves of olive trees, we cross the valley of the Fiora river, among thousands of Etruscan tombs and a truly uncontaminated nature.

On the border with Tuscany, in the remains of the Etruscan and Roman heart of Tuscan-Lazio Maremma, periods are not the only treasures of we find a green and lush landscape, the area of Vulci and Castro, pow- among places and people erful Etruscan towns that developed rich in history and thriving commerce with the Greek traditions. The world and dominated the Etruscan precious area of Viterbo for centuries.

Vulci: the Museum of the Castle

Archeological highlights

walls (C4 BC), made up of rec- Vu l c i tangular blocks of tufa that The ruins of one of the largest protected the city for centuries, and most powerful Etruscan the podium in tufa blocks of an city-states stand on a vast lime- Etruscan temple (C5 BC), vari- stone platform on the banks of ous rooms of a high class domus Vulci: Domus of the Cryptoporticus, viridarium Tthe river Fiora. The remains of the late republican period from both the Etruscan phase culture. It reached its peak and a small temple (sacellum) and the period of Roman dom- between the end of the C7 BC dedicated to Hercules. The ination are in good conditions. and during the entire C6 BC, magnificent Ponte Vulci was an economically when numerous stone, bronze dell’Arcobaleno, a bridge from thriving centre thanks to com- and pottery workshops flour- the C1 BC, dominates the mercial contacts with Greece ished. The archeological area entire area and crosses the Fiora and the East that influenced its maintains the original set of river at a height of 30 metres.

3 ITINERARY 1

Churches and monuments

Vulci: National Archeological Museum in Archeological highlights the rooms of the Castello dell’Abbadia with findings ranging from 2500 to the C1 BC. Ischia di FRANÇOIS TOMB Castro Castro: Civic Museum “Pietro e The area of the necropoli, Turiddo Lotti” with findings dating around the city, preserves thou- A stronghold of Etruscan ori- from prehistoric times to the Roman sands of tombs of different types: gin, it reached its peak in the era. Closer to the sea, do not miss case, chamber, corridor, as well C7- 6 BC as a city dependant the Rocca di Montalto di Castro. as graves and tumuli. Access to on the city-state of Vulci. The the precious tomb (in the area of necropoli, located on the hilly Food Ponte Rotto) from the C4 BC is around the modern city of gained through a 27mt-long cor- Castro, provide the only proof of the existence of the ancient “Canino” extra-virgin olive oil is a typical prod- settlement (perhaps known as uct of the Etruscan area Statonia) of which no trace is of Viterbo. Deep green in colour, it left as its original structures has a full and pleasant smell, and a were razed to the ground in fragrant, fruity taste. “Panunto” 1649 by order of Pope (“greasy-bread”) is the best way of Innocent X. The numerous enjoying the new oil at the oil mills tombs, that for centuries pre- in the period of milling. served unimaginable treasures, “Strada dei Sapori”: www.info.tuscia.it are worth a visit. Wineine

Vulci: Bath complex, calidarium The Pride of Lazio wine production is the ridor and contains frescoes, Aleatico di Gradoli, a mostly preserved in Villa Albani rustic red with a fresh, smooth in Rome, representing the saga fruity taste, best enjoyed when of the Vibenna brothers and of fairly young. Servius Tullius, at the time of the The minimum 12° of alcoholic struggle against the Tarquins for content can reach 16° in the strong sweet variety, ideal for the control of Rome. sweets and desserts. Castro: excavations TOMB OF THE INSCRIPTIONS Dating from the C4 BC, it con- Crafts tains numerous inscriptions on the walls and on the large slabs Woodwork is in the ROME on the doors leading to the vari- Superintendence for Archeological traditional style and ous chambers. Assets of Southern Etruria produces domestic objects such as Piazzale di Villa Giulia, 9 salt pestles, ladles and carving TUMULUS OF THE CUCCUMELLA 00196 Roma forks. The area is also known for ph. +39 06.3226571 Also located in the area of Ponte the many shops of ceramists who fax +39 06.3202010 have been inspired for centuries by Rotto, the imposing tumulus of Email: shapes and designs of the Etruscan the Cuccumella measures 18mt [email protected] school. in height and 65mt in diameter.

4 Vulci • Castro

RISERVA NATURALE MONTAUTO

Capalbio Laghetto del Pellicone

Abbadia Necropoli Etrusche Vulci Borgo Via Aurelia Carige PARCO Pescia NATURALISTICO

Romana DI VULCI Fso. Timone Stazione Chiarone

Graticciara Montalto F. Fiora di Castro Marina di Pescia Romana

Montalto Marina T. Arrone Vulci: lake on the Fiora river

Parks Mar Tirreno We are in the uncontaminated Maremma area of Tuscany and Lazio, where the wealth of natural and archeological treasures has banned invasive human activities. The Oasis (340 ha) is crossed by Marina Velca the river Fiora that runs in the Pellicone, a lake inhabited by vari- higher section as if in a deep bed ous species of fen-birds, including 0246810km of volcanic rocks and further herons and egrets, as well as otters, ahead forms the Laghetto del the true symbol of the area.

Fairs / Events Local curiosities Shopping

From August 1 to The Enel Powerstation The Lungomare (seafront) is the 31st , the “Alessandro Volta” of Montalto really the heart of Marina di Estate Montaltese: di Castro. An enormous structure in Montalto, popular for promenades theatre and con- the area of Pian Dei Cangani. Set up among stores, ice cream shops and certs at the Castle for the production of nuclear energy, little produce markets. The typical of the Abbadia of it was converted in a multi-com- fish market is in the area of the moo- Vulci, with tastings and activities bustible fed plant. Guided tours of ring at the mouth of the Fiora. for children, in a truly festive and the nuclear equipment in July and Strolling through the streets of nearby folkloristic atmosphere. August, evening tours. Visitor Center Tuscania we can find interesting anti- ph. +39 0766 898324 que stores.

5 ITINERARY 1

Vulci • Castro

Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS For Montalto di Castro, from In Marina di Montalto, in the Vulci (VT): National Rome, Via Aurelia up to the natural wet dock formed by the Archeological Museum km110, or the Autostrada mouth of the Fiora, typical ph. +39 0761 437787 Roma-Fiumicino, detour for shelter for small crafts, especial- Ischia di Castro (VT): Civic the A12 direction Civitavecchia ly fishing boats. Museum “Pietro and Turiddo and the Aurelia again, direction Lotti” ph. +39 0761 425400. Montalto. For guided tours: From Viterbo, SS Cassia Nord ph. +39 0761 425067 and detour in direction of Natural Park Of Vulci: Tuscania. Vulci: WWF Lazio Delegation archeological promenade, ph. +39 06 6892951 the Museum of the Castle ph. +39 06 6896522

Vulci: lake on the Fiora river VULCI CASTRO ItinerariesItineraries MARINA DI MONTALTO FIUME FIORA In the Natural Park of Vulci we can walk along stretch of the paths following the course of the Fiora, or fine sand, close to the Mediterranean bush. choose tourist itineraries on horseback in the val- Charming boat rides can be arranged in the area ley of the Fiora, along the ancient roads that led where the river Fiora meets the sea and where, from Vulci and Castro to the sea. amidst vegetation and inlets, we discover shores The Marina of Montalto is beautiful, with its long inaccessible by land and typical wood huts.

Seat of the APT Viterbo AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI VITERBO Piazza dell’Oratorio, 2 - Palazzo Doria Pamphili 01030 San Martino al Cimino (VT) Ph. +39 07613751 - Fax +39 0761379233 www.apt.viterbo.it www.provincia.vt.it

6 ITINERARY 2 TarquiniaTarquinia

Etruscan frescoes and historic aristocratic palaces, the wild sea and the quiet countryside, the splendid Etruscan -Viterbo town with its ten centuries of history will not disappoint us.

Art city of the Mediterranean, Tarconte, after whom it was named Tarquina is famous for its signifi- Tarchna, it was later, and until cant Etruscan archeological patri- 1922, called Corneto. mony, although the modern town Today, with its Lido, it is also a has preserved architecture and treas- well known beach resort, with ures from the Middle Ages and the beach clubs, hotels, sports and 1800s. Founded by the legendary leisure facilities.

Tarquinia: Town Hall

Archeological highlights

blocks of “macco”, a limestone Tarquinia common in the area, which can The first human settlements in be seen today in the section the area date from prehistoric north of Porta Romanelli. times. Later, between the C10- It included the Acropolis that 9 BC villages continued to rise constituted its original nucle- Tin the area of the Civita, even- us, and housed a sacred area tually forming the proper city. with a structure dating from the C7 BC. THE ETRUSCAN CITY The ancient city also had an It stood on a hill east of the one imposing temple, the Altar of modern Tarquinia is located on. the Queen, (C4 BC), one of It was surrounded by a set of Tarquinia, historical center: detail the largest temple in Etruria (its defensive walls (C5 BC) in base measures 77x35mt ) built

7 ITINERARY 2

Churches and monuments

The National Museum is one of the most important Etruscan Archeological highlights museums in Italy. Palazzo Vitelleschi. The Castle known as Matilde of Canossa’s with the Tarquinia, Tomb of the Orco: “Velca Maiden” on the site of an archaic temple. Church of Santa Maria in Castello and the “Tower of Dante”. The The pediment was decorated NECROPOLIS OF MONTEROZZI with relief figures in terracotta, From the C7 BC to the Roman Duomo, with frescoes by Antonio del Massaro, known as il Pastura, a including the magnificent era, the Hill of Monterozzi was painter from Viterbo (1508-1509). “Winged Horses” now on dis- the site of the most important play in the Museum of necropolis of nearby Civita, Tarquinia. located at a slightly higher point. Food Tarquinia was a rich and pow- 6000 tombs were dug out of the limestone, many of them pre- Ferlenghi mushrooms serve examples of archaic paint- are typical of the area ing and represent a slice of and are also used to prepare very Etruscan life and customs, with tasty seasoning for the traditional egg scenes of banquets, games, horse fettuccine. The nearby Monti Cimini are rich in chestnut groves and races, hunts and floral decora- Canepina is known for a delicious tions. In order to preserve this variety of chestnut, the “marrone”. Tarquinia, inestimable archeological patri- Excellent production of organic red National mony, only some of them are and yellow apples. Museum: open to the public, including the “Winged Horses” famous “Tomb of the Augurs” (530 BC), with a single chamber Wineine erful city from the C8 BC to with almost entirely painted the C3 BC, a commercial and walls, the Tomb of Hunting and The typical wine of industrial centre, famous for its Fishing” (520-510 BC) and the the area is the metal and bronze work and for “Tomb of the Bacchantes” (510- Tarquinio, pleasant the production of pottery. It 500 BC). Yet the treasures of the red or white, it should be enjoyed also gained political power and tombs are innumerable: stone while young. extended its dominion inland and terracotta sarcophagi, vases up to the ford of the Tiber, thus made by famous Attic ceramic taking control of the commerce artists, local pottery and signifi- of central Italy that came cant Etruscan inscriptions, through there. It developed carved and painted. relations and exchanges with Greece and the East since its Crafts origins, as indicated by the rich Antique jewels and import of products, including ROME faithful craftmade precious ones, found in tombs Superintendence for Archeological reproductions inspired and in the sanctuary/emporium Assets of Southern Etruria Piazzale di Villa Giulia, 9 by Etruscan styles are produced by of Gravisca on the sea. 00196 Roma local goldsmith art. ph. +39 06.3226571 Artistic ceramics and terracotta, fax +39 06.3202010 also faithful to the shapes and dec- Email: orations of the Etruscan school, [email protected] are the symbol of the Tarquinia handicraft.

8 Tarquinia

SELVA DEL LAMONE Tuscania Montalto di Castro F. Fiora

T. Arrone 0246810km

Via Aurelia

Montalto

Marina MartaF.

Riva dei Tarquini Via Aurelia

Tarquinia Mar Tirreno Tarquinia

Necropoli Etrusche Marina Velca

Tarquinia Lido Gravisca Parks Porto Clementino F. Mignone Saline Riserva Naturale Via Aurelia The Regional Natural Saline di Tarquinia Reserve “Selva del Lamone” is in the area of the municipality of Farnese at the border between Lazio and Tuscany. It is a S. Agostino truly luxuriant park in which, among A12 wild flowers, mushrooms, squirrels and buzzards, we can enjoy an excur- Tombe sion along the paths and rest in the Etrusche areas equipped with facilities. Scàglia Fairs / Events Local curiosities Shopping

The Procession of the This is the birthplace of The historical center Resurrected Christ is on Easter Sunday Vincenzo Cardarelli (1887- offers shops and in Tarquinia. The statue of Christ, 1959), 20th century poet and writer workshops selling weighing six quintals, is carried by six- who dared a return to Italian classi- various craftmade objects, among teen men, the so-called “brothers”, pre- cism in his nostalgic poetry. He won the colours of artistic ceramic and ceded by blank shots of the typical dou- the Strega Prize in 1948. Do not miss wrought iron objects. The ble-barreled gun from Maremma. On Etruscopoli, a vast cave of macco Lungomare (seafront) near the August 15, the Procession of the containing reproductions of Etruscan Lido is ideal for an evening pro- Virgin to the Sea, with the pageant of tombs with their furnishings and a menade or a game of golf in the boats and paraments. plastic model of the Civita. nearby sports clubs on the coast.

9 ITINERARY 2

TarquiniaTarquinia Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS From Rome, Via Aurelia up to The coast of Tarquinia has wet the km 90 or the Autostrada docks with laying up for small Roma-Fiumicino, detour for crafts. A12 direction Civitavecchia. Tarquinia Lido: Il Porticciolo - From Viterbo SS Cassia Sud up Fanelli - Ostili. to Vetralla and continue Marina Velca: Darsena towards Monteromano.

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Regional Natural Reserve “Selva del Lamone” ph. +39 0761 458741 ItinerariesItineraries

South of the Lido of there in the Middle Ages, Tarquinia, we find the marine enlarged in 1748 by Pope area of the Saline, a natural Clement II and since then reserve and archeological park known as Porto Clementino. with a fascinating example of Unused for a long time, its industrial archeology. The area structures were converted into includes the ruins of the sanc- a penal settlement in the last tuary of Gravisca, founded at century. The salt pan plant the end of the C7 BC as a dates to the early C19 AD and Tarquinia: Tower commercial and port call creat- has large shallow vats used for ed for commerce with foreign- the production of salt whose ers, Greeks and Phoenicians, bad quality caused the enter- who could also practice their prise to be abandoned. own religions there. Its decline began at the end of the C3 BC and in 181 BC it became P. C LEMENTINO a Roman colony. A SALINE Tarquinia: detail of the port was built GRAVISCA Clementine Port TARQUINIA

Seat of the APT Viterbo AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI VITERBO Piazza dell’Oratorio, 2 - Palazzo Doria Pamphili 01030 San Martino al Cimino (VT) Ph. +39 07613751 - Fax +39 0761379233 www.apt.viterbo.it www.provincia.vt.it

10 ITINERARY 3 CivitavecchiaCivitavecchia

A journey through the history and colurs of a town with a strong seafaring vocation and intense, charming characters, for demanding visitors in search of variety.

The large Port and the imposing renamed in 849 AD, and preserved Forte Michelangelo tell the story of to this day. Strolls through the the city and its past greatness: from greenery and natural springs, and the Etruscans to the Romans, from excursions out to sea will offer us the Byzantines to the Saracens, it visions of past eras in the form of was thanks to the Church that archeological remains and natural Civitas Vetula was rebuilt and beauty. Civitavecchia: Forte Michelangelo

Archeological highlights

reference for the commercial and the villa and the baths, document- Civitavecchia social life of the region. ed until the end of the C5 AD. VILLA OF THE TAURINE BATHS The area of the Taurine Baths, We recognize the most ancient Significant ruins of the Roman north of the Roman town, con- part by the technique used to Town of Centumcellae that grew sists of a structure from the C1 build the walls, the opus almost by the large Port built by the BC extending over about 2 reticulatum, with the decorative VEmperor Trajan in 106 AD, have hectares. This imposing bath arrangement in a diamond pat- survived in the port area and in complex is the most representative tern of the cubilia (wedge-shaped the outskirts of the modern town. of the Roman civilization in tufa blocks) visible in the rectan- We know that Centumcellae was southern Etruria, and was rebuilt gular portico framed by columns. an important commercial centre, by Trajan and enlarged by The more imposing section dates especially in Roman imperial Hadrian by exploiting the sulphur from imperial times and is in times and during the decline of springs. The presence of “double” brickwork (opus latericium). the empire it remained a point of rooms indicates the intense use of Corridors and small service cham-

11 ITINERARY 3

Churches and monuments

Forte Michelangelo - The largest and most imposing th Archeological highlights fortress erected in the 16 century to protect the only port close to Rome. It was built by Pope Julius II della Rovere on a project by the architect bers connected the areas of the Bramante from Urbino and complet- calidarium (pools with hot water) ed in 1535, under the supervision of and the tepidarium (hall with Michelangelo who also completed medium temperature), as well as the upper section of the donjon. the laconicum, the section for steam baths. Also, changing rooms, waiting rooms, reading Food rooms, lavatories and boilers in The sea offers an antipasto what was truly a villa devoted to of “lumachelle di mare” wellbeing and equipped to cater Civitavecchia: baths of Trajan with garlic and parsley, small octopus to many visitors. The presence of Civitavecchia-style and rich fish soup. a second level and a terrace with a Spring of the Ficoncella and was The Monti della Tolfa provide fresh pavilion roof above already known for its therapeutic sheep milk ricotta, ideal to prepare the calidarium, qualities by the Etruscans of the sweet ravioli. The Hazelnuts of Monte gave the villa area. According to legend the Cimino, have been grown in the an impos- source of sulphurous water Viterbo hinterland since the 1950s. ing appear- was accidentally discovered “Strade dei Sapori”: www.info.tuscia.it ance. by a bull scraping the Today we ground with its hoof and Wineine can still this episode originated the admire name of the baths, also known The DOC Colli as “Baths of Trajan”. Etruschi Viterbesi is pro- Female goddess from the C1 BC duced in 37 municipali- ties of the province of Viterbo. This wine is both white (sweet or sparkling) or red (sweet, novello and sparkling) and is start- ing to be greatly appreciated thanks to the improvement of the “greghet- to” vine, that has a red berry.

Crafts Young Marcus Aurelius San Martino al Cimino is remains of the magnificent ROME Superintendence for Archeological a famous woodwork cen- mosaics that covered the pools Assets of Southern Etruria tre, known above all for the pro- and halls of the bath complex, Piazzale di Villa Giulia, 9 duction of rustic furniture and along with rich and refined deco- 00196 Roma objects for the home, and tradition- rations on columns and walls. ph. +39 06.3226571 al kitchen utensils. fax +39 06.3202010 A mechanical and hydraulic pipe Crafted leather items are a classic Email: in Tolfa with its timeless handbags, system provided water to the vari- [email protected] but we also find belts, wallets and ous areas of the complex. The creative objects for the home. water came from the nearby 12 CivitavecchiaVia Aurelia La Farnesiana

F. Mignone

S. Agostino Allumiere Tolfa A12

Tombe Via Aurelia Etrusche MONTI Scàglia DELLA TOLFA Terme Taurine

Fonti di Ficoncella

Civitavecchia Porto turistico Riva di Traiano Fosso RioFiume Mar Tirreno

A12 Torre Fosso di Castelsecco Marangone Via Aurelia

I Grottini Capo S. Marinella Linaro Santa Severa Pyrgi Parks (Sant. di Leucothea)

NATURAL PARK OF THE MONTI ents chestnut trees and beech, and DELLA TOLFA - A hilly plateau of the typical fauna are the boar and volcanic origin, covered with the wolf, but other species at risk woods and reaching a maximum alti- of extinction, such as otters, martens tude of 638mt. and wildcats, can also be found. Immediately past the coast area A great place for bird-watching, the behind Civitavecchia, it appears with Park offers the opportunity to spot 0246810km sections of Mediterranean bush, the royal kite, that still lives here strawberry trees, cork and mastic among eagle-owls and red wood- trees. Higher up the vegetation pres- peckers.

Fairs / Events Local curiosities Shopping

The Feast of Santa Firmina, A picturesque and Traditional shops and modern patron saint of the city and of tasty tradition, gath- boutiques in 16th century set- sailors is on April 28, a fascinating pro- ering sea urchins to greet the tings and archeological cession to the sea and the blessing of “Spring at the Sea”. Between remains: a stroll along the town the waters, and fireworks. February and March, the cliffs streets is like a journey through time On August 15, the Palio Marinaro: the near Capo Linaro become popu- in the area around the harbour that reconstruction of the historic expulsion lated with groups of friends gath- has maintained its medieval structures of the Saracens in front of the Forte ering sea urchins on the rocky and the imposing complex of the Michelangelo and a huge fish-fry in the seabed and eating them on the Roman port. Fourth weekend of the piazza for the Sagra of the Padellone. spot with good fresh bread. month, antique fair (ph. +39 0766 5901)

13 ITINERARY 3

CivitavecchiaCivitavecchia

Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS From Rome, Via Aurelia direc- “Marina Riva di Traiano” Port Port of Civitavecchia tion Grosseto up to Tarquinia; or A highly - equipped tourist port, This commercial port is used Autostrada Roma-Fiumicino, a point of reference for naviga- above all for connections with detour for A12 up to tion in the Mediterranean. South Sardinia by ferry or hydrofoil. Civitavecchia, Via Aurelia direc- of the city, it has 12 wharves for Sailing is forbidden. tion Grosseto, exit Tarquinia. a total of 1100 berths for boats; Harbour Office the access canal is over 4m deep ph. +39 0766 35993 and has a rocky bottom. ph. +39 0766 501717

ItinerariesItineraries Springs of Ficoncella

Towards the coast, south of for days spent swimming in the sea the town, the cliffs and and sunbathing. Civitavecchia nord, turn left and seabed await us for truly The Springs of Ficoncella - follow the signs). exciting scuba-diving in According to legend, this spring, which we can discover close to the one at the Terme tau- Hiking on the Etruscan Appenine: sunken wrecks and sub- rine, was near an enormous fig tree. the Monti della Tolfa and the splen- merged archeological remains. The water (56°) gushes from the did ancient towns of Tolfa and For organized excursions: Centro limestone, it doesn’t contain any Allumiere In this area, immersed in Diving - Porto “Marina Riva di hydrogen sulfide and so doesn’t have the beauty of the natural park, we Traiano”. the typical bad smell. The spa com- can discover traces of prehistoric CIC Porto Turistico Riva di Traiano - plex functions all year round and human settlements and remains of Km. 65,500 offers cures for many internal and the Etruscan civilization, the ph./fax +39 0766 505220 external pathologies as well as areas necropoli of “Grottini” and of ph.+39 333 6195385 for relaxing and beneficial bathing. “Pian della Conserva” and the tem- [email protected] (Via delle Terme di Traiano, ple of “Gasceta dei Cavalieri”. If we go north instead, we find the before the junc- Beach of S. Agostino, with its tion for ALLUMIERE dunes, sand and beach clubs, ideal TERME TAURINE RIVA DI TRAIANO TOLFA FICONCELLA Seat of the APT Rome

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI ROMA Via XX Settembre, 36 - 00187 Rome Ph. +39 06421381 - Fax +39 0642138211 www.oltreroma.it

14 ITINERARY 4 CerveteriCerveteri • S.Marinella S.SeveraS.Severa •• Pyrgi Cool waterfalls and brooks along an itinerary rich in archeological sites, amidst age-old fortresses and ancient submerged ports, sulphur springs, doc vineyards and beaches with splendid waves.

Along the Via Aurelia, our virtual woods and the sea, at the height of guide in this journey through south- the Promontory of Capo Linaro. ern Etruria, we come across green The archeological patrimony of this area is of inestimable value, every corner reveals its prehistoric, Etruscan and Roman origins. The more recent history of Cerveteri and Santa Marinella proves the sensitiv- ity of later generations for their cul- tural heritage and for the beauty of the area.

Santa Severa: the Castle

Archeological highlights

princely furnishings. The turn- Cerveteri ing point of the mid C6 BC NECROPOLIS OF THE led to the appearance of the BANDITACCIA first “Dye-shaped Tombs” One of the richest burial intended for the deceased of grounds of ancient Cerae, mod- the middle class, arranged in a Nern Cerveteri, used from the regular way along streets and C9 BC. Today we can still visit Cerveteri: the Museum squares. many of the 2000 tombs situ- C8 BC), in which small circu- The importance of the ated along a path enclosed in lar cavities were excavated to Etruscan necropoli is tightly the tufa. They can be divided house urns containing ashes, connected to the fact that the into three types, starting from followed by the phase of the domestic environment of the the Villanovan period featured large monumental tumuli (C7 deceased was reconstructed in by the rite of cremation (C9- BC), funerary chambers with their tombs, and their lives

15 ITINERARY 4

Churches and monuments

The Odescalchi Castle in S. Marinella dates from the C15 AD and was built over the remains of ancient Archeological highlights Punicum and of the Villa of Ulpiano from the C3 AD. Odescalchi Castle in S. Severa (C11 AD) and Renaissance were represented through village, between the remains of the paintings, decorations and ancient town of Pyrgi and the Temple of objects. This patrimony has Leucothea. Cerveteri - Romanesque made it possible to study the Church of S. Maria Maggiore. history and customs of the Etruscan people, as only a few Cerveteri: Catacombs Food of their towns have survived ancient course of the Via owing to the use of perishable Aurelia, built in 241 BC, at the materials such as mud and straw time of censor C. Aurelio From the sea, the ancient recipe for chickpea soup for their homes and buildings. Cotta, to permit the Roman with prawns or squid in its own ink. conquest of Etruria, Liguria, In the trattorias of Cerveteri, there is ARCHEOLOGICAL AREA AND and the Gallic tribes of the great demand for dishes with game, ANTIQUARIUM OF PYRGI north. The structure of the like egg pappardelle with hare or Initially the Etruscan settle- bridges proves the high level boar ragout. Lets not miss a season ment of Pyrgi dominated the reached by Roman civil engi- taste of the artichokes of the plane sea in front of the Etruscan city neering, as can be seen at km between Cerveteri and Ladispoli, of Caere. Next to the empori- 59.700, near the Fosso di tender, tasty and without thorns. um stands a sanctuary of Castesecco between the Via immense value dedicated to Aurelia and the sea, where we Wineine Leucothea, emerged from the find the Bridge of Apollo, with beach south of the Castle of three arches and a curvilinear Cerveteri is one of Santa Severa. Two temples structure. In the vicinity, we the DOC wine from the C6 and C5 BC are can also see the Bridge of areas of the Etruscan still accessible The port com- Largo Impero (remains of the territory of Viterbo. The poet Martial plex reached the height of its arches) and in a palm grove, praised their deliciousness and defined splendour at the time of the arches of the Bridge of Via the white wine of ancient Cerae as thriving trade and maritime Roma, all dating from the late “the main nourishment of the gods”. commerce of the glorious republican period. An excellent wine (11°) to accompany a meal, sparkling or sweet white, and Caere, between the end of C6- also remarkable reds, dry or sweet. 5 BC. Following the decline of the city and the sack led by Dionysious of Siracuse (384 Crafts BC), the sanctuary was aban- doned and then confiscated by Some workshops in the ROME the Romans who in the course Superintendence for Archeological historical sections of S. of the C3 BC built the castrum Assets of Southern Etruria Marinella and S. Severa of the Roman colony over it. Piazzale di Villa Giulia, 9 offer models of historical ships and 00196 Roma reproductions of the typical fishing ph. +39 06.3226571 boats. The ancient tradition of “buc- ROMAN BRIDGES fax +39 06.3202010 chero”, a type of archaic Etruscan The territory of Santa Email: pottery from the C6 BC, with a Marinella preserves numerous [email protected] shiny black surface, survives today in ruins of Roman bridges on the the art of decorative pottery.

16 Cerveteri • S.Marinella • S.Severa • Pyrgi

MONTI DELLA TOLFA Terme Stigiane

Terme Taurine Monumento Naturale Caldara di Manziana Fonti di Ficoncella Civitavecchia

Fosso RioFiume

A12 Torre Fosso di Castelsecco Marangone Castel Giuliano Via Aurelia

I Grottini Necropoli Capo A12 S. Marinella della Linaro Tomba Banditaccia S. Severa Etrusca Pyrgi Via A (Sant. di Leucothea) urelia Mar Tirreno Cerveteri Riserva Naturale Cerenova di Macchiatonda Campo di Mare Marina di Cerveteri Torre Parks Flavia

NATURAL RESERVE OF and fauna, such as Ladispoli MACCHIATONDA: South of Santa coots, egrets, wild Palo Severa, a coastal marshy landscape ducks and the Castello awaits us. Truly uncontaminated, it rare fen-hawk. From Rome, at Km Odescalchi is a protected area and seat of the 50 of the Via Aurelia. Cultivations Faunal Oasis managed by the WWF. of flowers in the fields and in green- The regional natural reserve extends houses in the plane from S. Severa between the Mediterranean bush to S. Marinella, offer an exceptional and the sea and is inhabited by view, especially with the multi- 0246810km numerous protected species of flora coloured varieties of carnations.

Fairs / Events Local curiosities Shopping

Cerveteri - The Grapes The sophisticated aristocratic Typical products in the area and Wine Festival in the families of Caere craved to of the Port of Santa last week of August is a display the works of Euphronius, Marinella, or in the Renaissance vil- special occasion to discover the one of the most famous painters in lage of Santa Severa. The detached grapes and wines produced in the the ancient world, in their homes A houses of Santa Marinella, examples area of the Colli Ceriti. vase he painted, the chalice-shaped of the Art Nouveau or “floral” archi- Ladispoli - In the second weekend Crater dating from the C6 BC, now tecture of the early 1920s, lead us of April the city celebrates the at the Metropolitan Museum in back to the Belle Epoque, among Artichoke Festival. At the end of New York, was in fact found among stuccoes, colours, floral decorations in July, the Melon Festival. others in the ruins of Caere. iron and glass.

17 ITINERARY 4

Cerveteri • S. Marinella S. Severa • Pyrgi Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS From Rome, Via Aurelia direction S. Marinella - Odescalchi Civitavecchia until the Cerveteri Tourist Port: at the foot of the junction (or continue to castle by the same S.Marinella/S.Severa); or autostra- name, a port for da to Fiumicino Airport, A12 285 berths and in branch direction Civitavecchia, exit the wet dock a slip- to Cerveteri/Ladispoli (or follow- way for small crafts. Services, ing exit to S.Marinella/S.Severa). boatyards and laying up. Rocky and muddy bottom 1 to 5mt. USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS S. Severa - Wet dock with Natural Reserve of Macchiatonda buoys and chains for the WWF Lazio Delegation berthing of small boats. ph. +39 06 6892951

S. Marinella: the beach ph. +39 06 6896522 ItinerariesItineraries

Terme Stigiane: In the woods of 58°. There are also grottoes for The beach of Santa Marinella is the Monti della Tolfa, this ancient natural steam baths at 51°. Spa famous among surf enthusiasts for spring was already known to the centre “Il Bagnarello”. Via Terme di its sandy seabed, and has beach Etruscans and the Romans. The Stigliano - Canale Monterano clubs and sports facilities. Scuba waters and mud baths have (Rome). Ph. +39 06 9963428. diving tourism at Santa Severa, in numerous therapeutic applications At Marina di Cerveteri, with its the ancient Etruscan port of and, between June and typical white houses in Moorish Pyrgi, departing from the Castle September, we can enjoy a day of style, we can spend a lovely day at and from the Borgo. At the week- real wellbeing at the spa complex, the sea, with clear waters and nat- end, group excursions led by among the natural springs from ural oases, and enjoy one of the expert archeologists. Archeosub - which alkaline-iodic-salty-sul- most popular sections of TERME Ph. +39 06 99607059 phurous water gushes forth at a the coast of Lazio. STIGIANE temperature varying from 36° to S.MARINELLA S.SEVERA CERVETERI Seat of the APT Rome

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18 ITINERARY 5 FregeneFregene •• FiumicinoFiumicino

A hectic intercontinental airport in the background for a blend of different environments and attractions. Extensive pinewoods and deserted beaches, ancient and modern ports, archeological memories. Exchanges between the river and the the coast, Fregene is a haven for sea, the land and the sky, have many Romans. The sandy shore and always been a feature of the economic the beaches equipped with facilities and social life of this area, still firmly have always created a tranquil, attached to its fishing tradition. If relaxing atmosphere in the daytime Fiumicino is the economic heart of and a festive, glamorous one at night.

Archeological highlights

ing work for the construction of Fiumicino the airport of Fiumicino at the THE PORTS OF TRAJAN AND end of the 1950s. CLAUDIUS Numerous structures of the Port When the Emperor Claudius of Trajan have on the contrary decided to build a port north of remained intact, including the TOstia, the old call on the Tiber with works of canalization. The enormous hexagonal pool (the had already proven to be insuffi- “portus Ostiensis” was completed sides measure 357.77m) and the cient to support Rome’s river in 64 AD, after the tragic loss of surrounding warehouses, dams, traffic. Work began in 42 AD over 200 ships in a storm in 62 lighthouse, temples, baths and with the awareness of the risk of AD, and led to the first settle- even a private theatre. The the area silting up, and included ment of the ancient city of Emperor Trajan wanted to over- a dock of 80 hectares, two large Portus. Today we can admire its come the inefficiencies of the piers and a lighthouse, along remains that came to light dur- Port of Claudius, subject to con-

19 ITINERARY 5

Churches and monuments

Museum of Roman Ships - Inaugurated Archeological highlights in 1979, it houses the keels of four mercantile ships form the C3-4 AD, a “gondola- shaped” fishing boat and frag- stant silting up, and built this ments of other ships found in massive structure starting in 1958 during excavations for the 106AD and completing it by construction of the nearby airport 112AD. Leonardo da Vinci.

NECROPOLIS OF ISOLA SACRA Fiumicino: chamber tombs in the necropolis Food OR OF PORTO This burial ground, perfectly early as the C6 AD, may come preserved to this day thanks to from the presence in the area of Seafood cuisine reach- the age-old process of silting up Christian monuments. es excellent standards here. If we consider of the Tiber river, contains The necropolis appears with products of the land, tombs of the inhabitants of the monuments emerging from the we cannot overlook the tasty and ground and tombs arranged in tender carrot of Fiumicino, await- parallel rows creating actual ing IGT recognition. paths. The structure of the fam- Meat from the cattle-breeding in ily tomb is typical, a square the plane of Maccarese is also very chamber with the remains of a good. family and furniture in brick- work (beds) or ovens and wells Wineine used to organize funerary ban- quets. The chambers and The area is also known facades were finely decorated for the “Vignanello”, with paintings, stucco, mosaics a wine from Tuscia and numerous inscriptions produced in the which have contributed to province of Rome. In the reconstructing the lives of the varieties of white, red and rosé, the deceased and an image of the Greco is the most appreciated type lower middle classes of the area, when still young as an aperitif and, made up of artisans and mer- after two years of aging, to accom- pany fish dishes. chants. Fiumicino, Porto: votive aedicule Crafts ancient Porto, built between the C1-3 AD. It stands on a Elderly fishermen have handed strip of earth washed by the ROME, OSTIA ANTICA Superintendence for Archeological down to younger generations Tyrrhenian sea and isolated Assets of Ostia the techniques for the manu- from the mainland south and Via dei Romagnoli, 717 - 00119 Roma facturing and maintenance of east by the Tiber, north by a ph. +39 06.56358099 fishing nets. Tradition and technol- connecting channel between fax +39 06.5651500 ogy coexist in the shipyards on the Sito internet: the river and the sea excavated banks of the Tiber: designing and www.itnw.roma.it/ostia/scavi/ creating boats the traditional way, by Trajan in occasion of the Email: but with innovative materials and [email protected] construction of the Port. The sophisticated software. name Isola Sacra, mentioned as 20 Fregene • Fiumicino

Bonifica delle Via Aurelia Pagliete Fiume Arrone Torre Maccarese A12 ROMA Fregene Bonifica di Castel Maccarese Malnome

Bonifica di Focene Porto Ponte Galeria RISERVA DEL LITORALE ROMANO Aeroporto Intercontinentale Leonardo Da Vinci

Fiume Tevere Fiumicino Porto di Traiano Ostia Antica Isola Sacra Ostia

Lido del Faro Via Cristoforo Colombo Castel Lido di Ostia Porziano

TENUTA DI Parks CASTEL PORZIANO

The State Natural Reserve of the the Port of Trajan Roman Coast has been established offers splendid views Tor Paterno north and south of Rome, from thanks to the intervention for the Palidoro to Fregene, and includes a protection of the arboreal patrimony Mar Tirreno rich, monumental pinewood. It is a and the creation of pedestrian paths. protected area with typical The itinerary of the visit should Mediterranean bush flora, such as include a stop at the Belvedere strawberry-trees and juniper. point, among eucalyptus, pines, the On the Via Portuense, in Fiumicino, occasional holm-oak and the fra- 0246810km the Natural Archeological Park of grance of bay and linden.

Fairs / Events Local curiosities Shopping

Fiumicino - The second Splendid villas immersed in the The area of the wet dock Sunday of June, the Fish Festival shady pinewood of Fregene of Fiumicino is ideal for quiet with fishing contests, fairs, a music provide privacy to many VIPs strolls, in a holiday atmosphere, and band and 10 quintals of fried fish who have always loved the tranquili- a stop for an ice cream at one of the in a huge and characteristic ty of the beach resort but also enjoy many good gelaterie. On the side of “Padellata”. evenings on the shore. Famous Torre Clementina, in the most October 5 is the feast of the patrons include Giulietta Masina ancient section of the city, the char- Sant’Ippolito, Patron saint of the and Federico Fellini after whom the acteristic fish market, open every town, with a charming procession two sides of the seafront promenade evening around 5pm when the fish- of boats out to sea. have been named. ing boats return, is worth a visit.

21 ITINERARY 5

Fregene • Fiumicino

Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS From Rome, Via Aurelia direc- Fiumicino tion Civitavecchia up to the Porto Canale: with 20 berths, Fregene junction, or the autostra- maximum length permitted 20m. da for Fiumicino Airport, Porto Canale di autostrada A12 direction Fiumara Grande: Civitavecchia, exit for Fregene. at the mouth of To Fiumicino: autostrada for the Tiber, on the Fiumicino Airport up to the air- right bank. port, Via della Scafa in direction of Ostia, junction for Fiumicino. Darsena di Traiano: with access from Porto Canale, ideal for the USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS mooring of small boats. Museum of Roman Ships Isola Sacra Via A. Guidoni, 35 Darsena Netter: with access Fiumicino Airport from Fiumara ph. +39 06 6529192 Grande. ph. +39 06 65010089 Porto Romano: a small wet dock ItinerariesItineraries with access from Fiumara Grande. A truly original excursion can Via Portuense, be experienced at the Natural 2264 - Fiumicino Harbour Office Oasis of Porto: romantic rides (RM). Fiumicino: the Oasis of Rome - Fiumicino on horse carriages to enjoy the Guided visits: Porto ph. + 39 06 65617349 beauty of the park and visit ph. +39 06 5880880 ph. + 39 06 65617376 the three shores of the Lake of Trajan. Excellent observa- NECROPOLI LAGO DI tion points for bird DI PORTO TRAIANO watching too. OSTIA ANTICA

Seat of the APT Rome

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22 ITINERARY 6 OstiaOstia AnticaAntica SeaSea ofof RomeRome The colours and lights of a radiant land that shares the rhythms and trends of the capital in a typical seaside spirit.

Immersed in the greenery of the pinewood, eternally washed by the sea, this section of the coast tells an age-old story in which the remains of ancient Ostia facing the Borgo of an ancient city waited until the last century Ostia Antica: Castle of Julius II for the birth of modern Ostia: the Sea of Rome.

Archeological highlights

phase of decline in the C3 AD Ostia Antica with the progressive decrease of ARCHEOLOGICAL AREA AND trade and commerce in the port EXCAVATIONS OF OSTIA ANTICA of Ostia and the consequential In the C3 BC, the poet Ennius abandonment of the town. and other ancient Roman sources Ostia Antica: excavations The tour of the excavations of Aattributed the foundation of the C4 BC and is due to the fervent Ostia Antica begins along the city to Ancus Marcus, fourth activity of the port. It gained Decumanus Maximus, the main king of Rome, yet evidence of the greater autonomy from Rome in axis of the ancient city, from the existence of this colony estab- the C1 BC, in a moment of Porta Romana to the Porta lished at the mouth of the Tiber demographic and economic Marina, and leads us immediately (Ostia from “ostium”: river development and its history was into the rich and extensive ruins mouth) and of its first settlements always tied to the activities of the of the urban structure of the city and military function date to the Port, until it entered an inevitable in the Roman era.

23 ITINERARY 6

Churches and monuments

In the medieval- Renaissance Borgo of Archeological highlights Ostia Antica, the Castle of Julius II, an example of Renaissance military architecture Constructions on a single level, of the early 1500s. The Church of but also tenement complexes Santa Aurea from the 1400s, with developed around a central court- the Bishop’s Palace (Episcopio) yard. Warehouses and shops, and the frescoes executed by Baldasarre Peruzzi in the 1500s. baths and latrines, guild offices with signs and descriptive mosaics. Food The main attraction of the ruins is the entire area north of the A simple and tasty typical Decumanus, including the Ostia Antica, excavations: Insula of the product, the tellina, used Square of the Guilds and the Aurighi to season spaghetti in one Theatre that together provide floor has survived - with an exter- of the most ancient sea extraordinary evidence of the nal wall and a covered corridor. recipes. If you have a Only later, at the time of Cladius, sweet tooth, don’t miss was the site enriched by a portico the traditional krapfens, plain or with a cream filling in a historic and raised with a second level to pastry shop from the 1930s in the house the seats of the collegia, the historical centre of Lido. guilds that led their commerce there. The temple at the centre of the square was erected on a podi- Wineine um at the time of Domitian Ostia Antica, excavations: the Theatre among gardens and open spaces The lack of a typical wine commercial life of Ostia and adorned with statues. of the Roman coast allows Rome in the imperial era. us to mention some excellent The joint project dates to the DOC products of the Roman province: the legendary Frascati, a Augustan period and the Theatre white wine produced north of the - attributed to Agrippa, minister Colli Albani, light and best when of the emperor at the time and young, Velletri, from the southeast who died in 12 BC - is a very side of the Colli Albani, white, red ancient building entirely rebuilt with a fruity taste, and spumante. in brickwork in the C2 AD and Ostia Antica, excavations: the Square of restored numerous times. Its pres- the Guilds ent capacity is of 2700 seats and Crafts it is still fit for use, with the The ancient city and the sea- orchestra, the cavea, the service ROME, OSTIA ANTICA side one offer every variety of corridors and the portico with Superintendence for Archeological crafts, from pottery and the tabernae alternating with Assets of Ostia Via dei Romagnoli, 717 - 00119 Roma wrought iron to the creation steps to reach the tiers of seats. ph. +39 06.56358099 of jewelry. In the characteristic The Square of the Guilds, fax +39 06.5651500 Borghetto dei Pescatori, at the behind the Theatre, originally Sito internet: Lido, the manufacturing of fishing consisted of a simple structure: an www.itnw.roma.it/ostia/scavi/ nets is still handed down for local Email: use and women create lovely straw enormous square (107x78m) - of [email protected] which the magnificent mosaic baskets.

24 Ostia Antica • Sea of Rome

Bonifica di Maccarese

Bonifica di Focene Porto Ponte Galeria Aeroporto RISERVA DEL Intercontinentale LITORALE ROMANO Leonardo Da Vinci Acilia

Fiume Tevere Fiumicino Lago di Traiano Via del Mare Ostia Antica Isola Sacra Ostia

Lido del Faro Via Cristoforo Colombo Castel Castel Porziano Fusano Lido di Ostia Villa di TENUTA DI Parco Pineta Plinio CASTEL PORZIANO di Castel Fusano Mar Tirreno Laurentum

Tor Paterno

0246810km Tenuta di Ostia: beach club Capocotta Parks

This section of the coast has a very of Ostia Antica. The protected area is port, we find rich vegetation, an authentic garden featured by the presence of pines, and the Natural on the sea. The State Natural the typical fragrances of the Oasis managed Reserve of the Roman Coast Mediterranean bush such as strawber- by LIPU and includes the Urban Park of the ry-trees and juniper. recently instituted, for the protection Pinewood of Castefusano, embedded The Reserve also protects the dune of and repopulating of bird species. The in the city and accessed both from the Beach of Castelporziano, south of protected area also includes the Tower the Lungomare di Levante - Viale the Litorale di Ostia, far from the of San Michele, a fortification erected Mediterraneo - and from the Piazza inhabited area and rich in vegetation. against Saracen raids on a project by of Castefusano, from the internal side On the west side, just behind the new Michelangelo.

Fairs / Events Local curiosities Shopping

The first Sunday of June in Ostia Antica, Ostia Lido At the Lido, Via delle the Borgo of Ostia Antica and the surrounding area, Baleniere is similar to the is the day of Santa Aurea are part of the XIII Municipality, Corso, with shops, bou- with a solemn procession, the most populated and extensive in tiques and a lot of action. fairs, shows and fireworks. Italy with over 250.000 residents. Lets enjoy a visit to the The Lungomare (Seafront) of The town hall is in the Palazzo del historical center and its lovely Art Ostia, especially in the summer- Governatore, an Art Nouveau build- Nouveau detached houses, starting time, offers sports events, shows, ing (1924), designed by Giovanni from the nearby Pontile (wharf), theatre, book fairs, art exhibits and Fasolo, with beautifully decorated restored in 1956 and projecting lots more. arched windows. out into the sea for 125mt.

25 ITINERARY 6

Ostia Antica • Sea of Rome

Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS From Rome, Viale Guglielmo Ostia Marconi towards EUR, Via del Marina Porto di Roma: wet Mare junction up to Ostia docks for boats, including larg- Antica (or continue to the Lido er ones, with access from di Ostia). Fiumara Grande, on the left bank. Depth from 1.30 to USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS 2.50mt. LIPU Ostia Tourist Port of Rome: a private

Ostia: the coast dunes ph. +39 06 56342257 marina, with over 800 berths and modern facilities, with ItinerariesItineraries access from Fiumara Grande. Ph. +39 06 561881 The Pinewood of Horseback riding through the Characteristic dock of the Castelfusano, in the State pinewood and the dunes in Canale dei Pescatori, by the Natural Reserve of the Roman every season. The highly Coast cannot be missed for equipped beach clubs, along homonymous Borghetto. The panoramic bike excursions, 10 km of shore, offer innova- shallow seabed and bridges allow with cycling routes and more tive ways of enjoying the Sea access and small boat traffic. demanding itineraries in the of Rome all year round: fit- Harbour Office interior for mountain-bike ness, wellness, entertainment, Via Litoranea, 211 enthusiasts, along the remains relaxation in flower gardens ph. +39 06 5670155 of the route of the ancient Via and walks on the beach in Severiana, the coast road that every season. led from Ostia to Lake Averno. CASTELFUSANO

LIDO DI OSTIA Via Severiana

Ostia: the fishermen district Seat of the APT Rome

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26 ITINERARY 7 Lavinio •Torvaianica Ardea •Tor S.Lorenzo

Soft colours, silence and the slow rhythm of an exceptional archeological area, famous for the myth of Eneas. Between the countryside of Lazio and the Mediterranean bush, rural culture and maritime traditions.

The Mediterranean dune is the prevail, along with history and the true, eternal protagonist of the his- fascination of the myth of Eneas. torical happenings of this coastal According to legend the hero landed area south of Rome, often forgotten here with his fellow-Trojans and but favoured by hikers and tourists later founded the ancient Lavinio: in search of lovely beaches. Views in Lavinium, named after his wife Tor Caldara which natural elements still Lavinia.

Archeological highlights

series of altars measures about Lavinium 50mt and is a very impressive ARCHEOLOGICAL AREA OF site. According to legend, the PRATICA DI MARE: THE Trojan hero Eneas, considered THIRTEEN ALTARS AND THE the ancestor of the Romans, HEROON OF ENEAS landed south of the city. Pratica di Mare: excavations AArcheological evidence indi- The findings brought to light cates the C9 BC as the date of Latin people. The walls and the during excavations are excep- origin of the ancient city. It bath complex of the ancient tionally important: imported used to stand on a hill about city are still partially visible. In Greek material from the C6 20 kilometers from Rome, on 1957 the first of the 13 altars BC, two bronze sheets with a the present site of Pratica di of the Sanctuary connected dedication in Latin to the Mare and was a highly impor- with devotion to the Penates Greek gods Castor and Pollux tant religious centre for the was discovered. The entire (500 BC), elements that have

27 ITINERARY 7

Churches and monuments

Ardea: the Manzù Collection. The museum Archeological highlights houses the works the artist donated to the Italian State in 1979. Sculptures, Ardea: Genucilia dish medals, jewels and etchings for a contributed to stress the role of total of 400 pieces that document Lavinium as religious centre the artistic development of the and for the spreading Greek Ardea great sculptor who chose Ardea as influence into Roman culture. The first settlements date to his city of adoption. The sacred area of the the Bronze Age and in the Iron Sanctuary originated in the Age two villages occupied the Food mid C6 BC and includes the acropolis. The city acquired a tumulus tomb attributed to certain power only in the Eneas, whose cult developed in C7BC, when it became capital “Puntarelle”, the tender part of the city in the late C4 BC of the Rutuli - a people distinct Catalonian chicory when the Romans obtained from the Latins but part of the shoots are especially tasty and fra- hegemony over the Latins. League of the Alban people - grant in this area and are seasoned and it developed its architec- with a homogenous dressing made ture. The acropolis used to with salted anchovies (without contain many structures and bones), garlic, extra virgin olive still houses a magnificent oil, vinegar, salt and black pepper. example of Roman basilica which appears as a rectangular hall (45.80x23.80mt) facing Wineine the area of the forum with six- teen entrances divided by If we wish to taste a wine pilasters, and a portico with from the area we can choose columns on the eastern side the DOC Colli Lanuvini, culti- that provided access to the vated and produced in the south- west area of the Albani Hills. It’s a Lavinium: bust of temple. Built in the late C2 female statue BC, the basilica shows evidence good dry white wine, ideal with of restructuring in the delicate vegetable dishes or fish, and the Amabile type goes well SANCTUARY OF MINERVA Republican era as indicated by with local baked sweets. The Outside the city, on the eastern the opus reticulatum tech- Superiore (12°) is excellent. side, stand the ruins of the nique. Sanctuary dedicated to the cult of Minerva - the goddess of Crafts war but also venerated as the goddess of the mens, intelli- This coastal area of ROME gence, and as the goddess of Superintendence for Archeological Southern Lazio, peace - found in 1977 along Assets of Lazio caught between land with an extraordinary votive Via Pompeo Magno, 2 - 00192 Rome and countryside, deposit of over 70 terracotta ph. +39 06.32659653 maintains its manu- statues, including a magnifi- fax +39 06.3214447 facture of straw bas- Web site: kets. In different cent statue of Minerva, and www.archeolz.arti.beniculturali.it shapes but also traditional, they images of young girls almost Email: have always accompanied daily [email protected] portrayed from real life, dedi- domestic activities. cated to the goddess. 28 Lavinio • Torvaianica • Ardea • Tor S. Lorenzo

RISERVA NATURALE DI Pomezia CASTELPORZIANO E CAPOCOTTA Via Pontina

Pratica di Mare Lavinium

Secche di Tor Paterno

Rio Torto Torvaianica Ardea Aprilia Spiaggia di Rio Torto

Fosso della Moletta

Via Pontina Mar Tirreno Tor S. Lorenzo Landriana Marina di Ardea Torre Campo S. Lorenzo di Carne Lido di Colle Romito Lido dei Pini

Nettunese

Lido dei Gigli Lavinio Lido di Enea Riserva Naturale di Tor Caldara Lido di Cincinnato Lido delle Sirene Lido di Marechiaro Nettuno

Anzio Tor Caldara: the beach 0246810km

Parks Fairs / Events

We are in the heart of the Natural mountain” reaches 18mt Ardea - The Palio in Reserve of the Estate of below sea level. The reef is the first weekend of Castelporziano, among the dunes of inhabited by numerous ani- June animates the town with his- the Estate of Capocotta. Ahead of us mals and plants, including the rare toric parades. In April, Spring at lies a protected natural marine area that Posidonia Oceanica, and deeper still the Landriana, the famous gar- is truly unique in Lazio: the Shoals of the beautiful red Gorgonia (closely dening fair, enlivens the town with Tor Paterno, a rocky formation that related to coral), along with morays, bright colours. looks like an island on the flat and congers and bass. On the surface, in Tor San Lorenzo - The Feast of sandy seabed. Its maximum depth is certain seasons, we can see lovely dol- San Lorenzo Martire, August 6 60mt and the peak of this “underwater phins and rare species of sea birds. and 7.

29 ITINERARY 7

LavinioLavinio • Ardea Torvaianica • Tor S. Lorenzo Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS From Rome, Viale Cristoforo Torvaianica, Tor San Lorenzo, Shoals of Tor Paterno: the area Colombo up to the Lido di Lido dei Pini and Lavinio have is marked by buoys and naviga- Roma, then continue along the moorings on the beach with tion is forbidden, but for boat Via Severiana coast road to laying up for small boats active rides and guided scuba diving Torvaianica, Tor San Lorenzo, during the summer season. excursions contact the manag- junction for Ardea and Lavinio ing bureau. Romanatura in this order. ph. +39 06 35403436 www.romanatura.roma.it Ardea: Raccolta Manzù Via Laurentina, Km. 32,800 ph. +39 06 9135022

Torvaianica: the dunes ItinerariesItineraries

Along the ancient course of the and the Lido di Enea. We can Sections of the basalt slabs that Via Severiana on the coast, we even ride bikes and take a quick have contributed to reconstruct- can stop and spend some time look at the Torri San Lorenzo ing its ancient course, are still at the beach. There is no lack of and Torvaianica. visible along the coast. choice: from the dunes of The ancient coast road is attrib- Capocotta to the Beach of uted to Septimius Severus and Riotorto, or else we can contin- was built from 198 to 209 AD. ue to the Marina di Ardea and It connected Ostia to southern the famous Lido delle Sirene Lazio up to the Lake of Averno. OR ORENZO ARDEA T S.L TORVAIANICA LAVINIO Via Severiana

Seat of the APT Rome

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI ROMA Via XX Settembre, 36 - 00187 Rome Ph. +39 06421381 - Fax +39 0642138211 www.oltreroma.it

30 General GeneralMap Map gene

Vitorchiano

Ostia Antica, excavations: Square of the Guilds 1 Tuscania Vulci Caprarola K EY Castro 2 Tarquinia

Seat of the APT Civitavecchia 3

Cagliari Touring Club Orange Flag Locality 4 Olbia Cerveteri S.Marinella S.Severa Fregene Embarkation Fiumicino 5 6

Itineraries Ostia Antica

Lavinio, Ardea Torvaianica e 7 Tor S.Lorenzo

Anzio Nettuno

Torre S ral map

San Felice Circeo: the Guattari Grotto Lavinio: Tor Caldara

Leonessa

Ostia Antica, excavations: Insula of the Aurighi

01530km Lavinio, Tor Caldara: beach Gaeta: view from the Church of St. Francis

Collepardo Nemi

Arpino

8 9

Astura atricum 12 S.Felice 10 Circeo 11 13 14 Sabaudia Sperlonga Terracina Fondi Via Appia Gaeta Formia Minturno ORANGE FLAG PROJECT

The ORANGE FLAG is a tourist and environmen- tal quality trademark that the Touring Club has assigned to those localities in the inland of our peninsula that pursue tourist development accord- ing to quality standards. The promotion of cultural assets, the protection of the environment, the culture of hospitality, the accessibility and availability of resources, the quality of accommodation, of restaurant services, and of typical products, are only some of the key elements for the assignment of the trademark. In this guide dedicated to the archeological sites and the most beautiful localities on the coast of Lazio, we decided to reserve the indication on the general map of the region to the seven towns of Lazio that have recently obtained the Orange Flag trademark: Arpino, Caprarola, Collepardo, Leonessa, Nemi, Tuscania and Vitorchiano, with the goal of offering an overall vision of the cultur- al and environmental patrimony of Lazio.

The ORANGE FLAG project is coordinated by the Study Centre of TCI. Info: Ph. +39 028526828 - Fax +39 028526333 [email protected]. www.touringclub.it

Touring Club Italiano ITINERARY 8 AnzioAnzio •• NettunoNettuno

We enter the heart of Lower Lazio where marine life seems distant from the rural area. The Mediterranean charms us with its sounds and colurs and reveals the stories of its origins, caught between history and myth.

As most sea towns, Anzio and and their inhabitants. Nettuno have a lively and fascina- Parks and marine reserves await ting history. Their prehistoric ori- those who wish to indulge in a rela- gins and their splendour in impe- xing trip, and those in search of the rial times have left fine archeologi- pleasures of the palate will enjoy cal treasures; commerce and the local products of very high quality. Nettuno: a detail of influence of ruling noble families the port through the ages contributed in for- ming the civilizations of these places

Archeological highlights

Anzio: sarcophagus with marine scene

Anzio This important city represents a Antium is one of the most highpoint of the Latin civiliza- ancient cities in Italy, as proven tion, it reached the height of its by archeological remains indica- splendour in the C6 BC when it Ating its existence already 150.000 owned its own fleet and control- years ago, during the Stone Age led sea commerce in the area. Yet (Lower Paleolithic). According to at that time ancient Lazio started myth, Anzio was founded by undergoing social, economic and Anzio: Nero's Grottoes Ascanius, son of Eneas, along geographical changes following with the city of Albalonga, or by gins and a parallel, similar foun- the dispute between Latins and Antaeus, son of Ulysses and the dation legend, mythology seems Romans and the constant threat Sorceresses Circe. In any case, by to have been determined to of the neighbouring Volsci providing it with such noble ori- make Anzio as important as Rome. Constantly at war with Rome, it

35 ITINERARY 8

Churches and monuments

Tower of Capo d’Anzio: erected between the C9 Archeological highlights and C10 AD, during the first raids

nd of the Saracens, to protect the Anzio: small amphora, 2 period of Lazio Civilization nearby towns of Anzio and Nettuno. was destroyed in 338 BC and mosaics and precious wall pain- Fortress of Nettuno: overlooking deprived of its political rights. It tings dating from the late C3 the sea near the old Borgo of was the end of a commercial rea- AD to the early C4 AD. Nettuno, it was built by Pope Alexander VI who commissioned lity that gave way the project to Giuliano da Sangallo. to a new era: during the republican Nettuno Food period it beca- me a residen- According to Fresh vegetables and salads tial centre with Latin tradition, can be enjoyed with the elegant villas in the present name of traditional “pinzimonio”, a simple every section of the the town originated yet ancient seasoning made with oil, city. It was here, in Anzio, Imperial Villa: from Neptunium or salt and pepper. But lets not forget fragment of fresco the sea: a large variety of fish can be the imperial villa on Navale Antium, refer- prepared according to the fisherme- the west side of the coast, that ring to the first settlement of the n’s own recipes, such as their highly both Caligula and Nero were Volsci, from the name of the god recommended stewed octopus and born. of the sea. On the highest point pasta with sardines. Also, in the Villa Spigarelli, in of the coast, where the medieval the northern area of the city, it is town would rise in later times, possible to visit the remains of a the inhabitants dedicated a tem- Wineine splendid residence with coloured ple to the deity. In the interior, between Aprilia and Anzio, there is a significant cultivation of Trebbiano, Sangiovese and Merlot. Good production of DOC wine: the “Trebbiano” white, the rosé “Sangiovese” with its characteristic orange colour and red “Merlot”. Local Nettuno wine, “Cacchione”, awaits to be recognized with the authenticated trademark for wines.

Crafts

Woodwork ROME Superintendence for is a typical Archeological Assets of Lazio craft in Via Pompeo Magno, 2 - 00192 Roma Lazio, but ph. +39 06.32659653 the province of Latina specializes fax +39 06.3214447 in the creation of rustic furniture Web site: and stuffed chairs. www.archeolz.arti.beniculturali.it Email: [email protected] Anzio: excavations

36 Anzio • nettuno

Aprilia

Horti Sangiulianei

Tor S. Lorenzo Via Pontina

Landriana Fosso dei Prefetti

Torre S. Lorenzo Campo Verde Fosso Pane e Vino

Lido dei Pini Le Ferriere

Lido dei Gigli Nettunese

Lavinio Borgo Bosco di Montello RISERVA NATURALE Padiglione Tre Cancelli Lago di DI TOR CALDARA S. Antonio Lido di Cincinnato Lido delle Sirene Lido di Marechiaro

F. Astura Nettuno Anzio Acciarella

Parks la Banca NATURAL RESERVE OF TOR ple of experimental Torre CALDARA: a little further up Mediterranean garden Astura north of Capo d’Anzio, we disco- that houses over one ver this marine reserve preserved thousand species of Mar Tirreno in the absolute respect for the plants from all over the environment. It is a WWF Oasis. world. Cared for by the The Horti Sangiulianei in Garden Department of the Aprilia are a must for plant lovers International Culture Center but also for curious people or Florida, it is also the seat of a lab 0246810km nature lovers. It is a typical exam- and a research center.

Fairs/Events Local curiosities Shopping

Anzio: The last This is the kingdom In the heart of the Saturday of June is of bluefish and in ancient town of the day of the patron Anzio there is the Anzio, in the area saint Sant’Antonio most ancient (150 of the port, it is possible to find da Padova, celebra- years) factory in Italy beach wear and local crafts. ted with a procession for the preparation of The traditional auction at the fish that goes out to sea with an evoca- sardines. market offers very fresh fish at tive pageant of fishing boats. unbeatable prices.

37 ITINERARY 8

Anzio • Nettuno

Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS From Rome, take the Via Port of Anzio: 500 berths for a Pontina up to the junction for maximum length of 15mt. Aprilia, then continue along the Muddy and variable seabed, Via Nettunense to Anzio, and ranging from 2.5 to 3mt in the along the coast road to reach quay. Sailing forbidden. Nettuno. Porto Marina di Nettuno: for sports crafts, it has 3000mt of USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS dock and 14 wharves, sandy Horti Sangiulianei: Visits can be seabed, 2.50 to 4mt depth in reserved. ph. +39 06 9269981 the quay. Marina di Nettuno - Natural Reserve of Tor Caldara: Circolo Nautico S.p.A. WWF Lazio: ph. +39 06 9805404 ph. +39 06 84497206 CONNECTIONS WITH THE ISLANDS Nettuno: the beach Port of Anzio Motorboats and hydrofoils: ItinerariesItineraries Caremar ph. +39 06 98600083 Hydrofoils: Vetor Bike and train in the Park of Torre Astura: for those who ph. +39 06 9845083 enjoy bike riding, we recom- and in the Borgo of Nettuno. mend the cycling itinerary bet- Organized group excursions ween the Park of Torre Astura possible: www.biciebike.net and Nettuno. About 40 km, of medium difficulty with areas to stop in the Park NETTUNO TOR CALDARA

ANZIO TORRE ASTURA

Anzio: the port

Seat of the APT Rome

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI ROMA Via XX Settembre, 26 - 00187 Roma Ph. +39 06421381 - Fax +39 0642138211 www.oltreroma.it

38 ITINERARY 9 TorreTorre AsturaAstura SatricumSatricum

In the footsteps of Cicero, along the ancient Via Astura, we cross the ancient countryside to reach Roman villas and the crystal clear sea.

It will seem to us to have left the tions, from the Latin origins and world behind, with Saracen towers Greek influence right to the present. on the horizon marking the rhythm of our excursion and archeological sites offering charming breaks. Countryside and sea blend in a unique, quiet landscape, a witness to ancient civilizations and tradi-

Torre Astura

Archeological highlights

Anzio, towards the Astura river Satricum and west towards Velletri and This very ancient Italic city was Palestrina from the north side. one of the first in the Pontine Satricum was embellished with area . Inhabited initially by Latin the construction of a temple people, it rose on a high ground (peripteral) - at the centre of the T Satricum: Temple of Mater Matuta west of the Astura river - at that acropolis, on the exact site of the time navigable up to the sea - in when, during the peak of its ancient “temple-hut” of the C9 the area of Le Ferriere and its splendour (C7 - C6 BC), the BC. Dedicated to the worship of history goes back from the C15 Appian Way had yet to be built the Mater Matuta, a matronal BC to the C1 BC. and the boundary wall of the deity also known as the goddess It was a rich commercial city, the acropolis of Satricum was the of Aurora, the temple was one of crucial point of a the Agro- starting point of at least four dif- the most venerated places in Pontine road system, especially ferent roads leading to Ardea, pagan Lazio, a destination for

39 ITINERARY 9

Churches and monuments

In the area of Le Ferriere (LT), the House of the Martyrdom of Saint Archeological highlights Mary Goretti. In Latina, the Civic Gallery of Modern Art with a collec- tion of paintings from the Thirties, the faithful even when the city imperial times an artificial port and the “Mario Valentini” Museum fell into decline (findings of was built near the villa and we of Numismatics, Medallistics, small votive statues left as gifts can still recognize two of its piers Graphics and Photography. The dating from the period between and its fish tanks. The villa was Gallery of Contemporary Art and the 350 and 100 BC). The Temple also serviced by an aqueduct that Antiquarium are in Borgo Sabotino. was used as a bridge to reach the nearby artificial island on which Food the residential structure extended. This is the area of TOWER dairies that daily This medieval coastal fortress was produce fresh moz- built above the remains of the zarella, butter and other fresh fish tanks of the villa of Astura, cheese products. Kiwi and oil are Satricum, excavations: detail and was connected to the main- also produced here. The sea offers exceptionally fresh products for was brought to light during the land by a brickwork bridge. fish soup and fish-fries in the clas- important excavations of 1896- Although earliest evidence dates sic maritime tradition. 1898, and the finding of valuable from 1193, it seems that the first remains has made it possible to construction was ordered by the date the structure to the C7 BC. Counts of Tuscolo, lords of Today we can admire the votive Nettuno, who to protect their Wineine cabinet found in the Temple (the rich maritime centre from the most significant collection of constant raids of the Saracen The DOC wines of non-Greek and non-Etruscan pirates (C9 - C10 AD). the area of Aprilia Italy) and the funerary objects of rule here: “Trebbiano” (whi- the nearby necropolis areas at the te), “Sangiovese” (rosé with an Museum of Villa Giulia in Rome. orange colour) and “Merlot” (red), wines with strong flavours that appropriately accompany the Kàntaros found in a varied cuisine of the area. tomb of the south-west necropolis, C5BC Crafts

In Borgo Mondello, ROME near Le Ferriere, typical Astura Superintendence for Archeological Assets of Lazio shops offer craftmade REPUBLICAN VILLA Via Pompeo Magno, 2 - 00192 Roma objects in wrought Perhaps more famous for its ph. +39 06.32659653 iron, inspired by tradi- medieval tower, this archeologi- fax +39 06.3214447 tional design. cal area south of the Astura river Web site: mouth is located on a small cape www.archeolz.arti.beniculturali.it Email: that preserves the ruins of a villa [email protected] of the late republican period. In

40 Torre Astura • Satricum

Via Pontina

Campo Verde

Le Ferriere Nettunese Cisterna di Latina OASI DI NINFA Satricum Via Pontina Borgo Canale delle Acque Alte Montello Tre Cancelli Borgo Piave Bosco di Lago di S. Antonio Padiglione Borgo Bainsizza Latina

Borgo S. Maria

Nettuno F. Astura

Anzio Acciarella Canale di Moscarello Borgo Sabotino

la Banca Foce Verde Mar Tirreno Torre di Torre Foce Verde Astura Parks

Oasis of Ninfa: an immense, flourishing homonymous river create garden created in the 1920s among the the setting for rare botani- remains of the medieval town of Ninfa cal specimen, fish, such as the macro- by the heirs of the Caetani family who stigina trout and beautiful species of had bought the town in the 1200s. birds, such as the peregrine hawk, the Today the Oasis is managed by the African golden oriole and the blue “Roffredo Caetani di Sermoneta” rock thrush, that populate the over Foundation that is also in charge of the 1850 hectares of park with its woods 0246810km ruins of Ninfa and of protecting the of bamboo, Mexican pines and local fauna. The little lake and the Japanese magnolias.

Fairs/Events Local curiosities Shopping

In mid October The remains of the ancient If we are looking for shop Cisterna di Latina, cele- city were discovered in 1896 windows and bright brates the return of the by the French scholar Henri Graillot. lights, this is definitely shepherds from the mountains Since then periods of interest on the the wrong place! Along the Via with the “Festival of the Riciclata”. part of the Italian authorities have alter- Astura and the SS. Lungomare In the past it was the occasion to nated with periods of inactivity. In the Pontino we may rather meet far- exchange goods, especially cattle, 1970s, thanks to excavations led by the mers selling local, often organic the real protagonist of the event Dutch Institute of Rome, many ruins products: mozzarella, strawber- along with the cowherds of the and secrets of the ancient civilization ries, wine and excellent beef. “merca”, the branding of the herds. have been brought to light.

41 ITINERARY 9

Torre Astura • Satricum Useful Info

GETTING THERE USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS From Rome take the Via Oasis of Ninfa: guided tours Pontina up to the junction for from April to October, the 1st Aprilia, than continue along Saturday and Sunday of each the Via Nettunense in the month and special openings in direction of Anzio/Nettuno. April, May and June. Località Doganelle- Ninfa. SS.Pontina, PORTS AND DOCKS junction for Cisterna, (LT). Dock shelter on the river Rio Info: Fondazione Caetani, Viale Martino (LT). Botteghe Oscure, 32 Rome. Ph. +39 06 6873056, 9am-2pm. Civic Gallery “Mario Valentini”, Palazzo della Cultura, Via Umberto I° ph. +39 0773 652600 / 652623 Civic Gallery of Contemporary Art - Borgo Sabotino, Torre Astura ph. +39 0773 645060 ItinerariesItineraries

Torre Astura - The Tower is Excursions by boat (the panied on the located in a military area and is “Caronte) to visit the area are boat excursion as open to the public on Saturday managed by a local cooperative well. and Sunday during the year and (ph.+39 334 7133261). An asso- Info: Associazione Portatori di every day in July and August. ciation of volunteers arranges Handicap - Visitatori di Torre On the SS. Lungomare Pontino guided visits for the disabled Astura (ONLUS) we find the detour for the Tower who are met at the car park and Via Zara, 53 Nettuno and from the car park, before the accom- ph. +39 339 2287985 SATRICUM bridge, there are about 3 kilome- ters of path, for bikes as well.

Fiume TORRE DI FOCE VERDE Astura TORRE ASTURA Seat of the APT Latina

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI LATINA Via Duca del Mare, 19 - 04100 Latina Ph. +39 0773695404 - Fax +39 0773661266 www.aptlatinaturismo.it

42 ITINERARY 10 SanSan FeliceFelice CirceoCirceo SabaudiaSabaudia A pleasant green oasis amidst history and mythology. A pleasant green oasis amidst history and mythology, Mount Circeo, a natural terrace overlooking the National Park and its 20 kilometres of coast, stands out amidst the San Felice Circeo: the Tower of the golden sand of the beaches and the Selva Templars del Circeo. Our itinerary starts north with Sabaudia, the Piana dei Laghi dei Monaci, of Caprolace, of Fogliano and of Paola, and the fascinating Villa of Domitian. Looking south we find San Felice Circeo, with its lively historical cen- tre, promontory, grottoes and archeological remains. A unique excursion awaits us in the places where Homer says Ulysses landed and where his legendary love affair with the Sorceress Circe began, where history and myth have always told their tale in an enchanting and immutable natural setting.

Archeological highlights

metres of height alternates the San Felice Circeo strength of huge blocks and the ACROPOLIS refinement of small triangular At the top of Mount Circeo, in trimming dowels. the area of Le Crocette - east of the Promontory - stand the SANCTUARY Aremains of the polygonal walls Sabaudia: the Villa of Domitian Dating from the republican that surrounded the Acropolis to ancient constructions also in the period, the wide platform of defend the inhabitants of town of San Felice. On the about 1000 square metres, ancient Circei. The construction opposite side of this irregular maintains its massive supporting technique and the historical and polygon, whose original perime- walls and the polygonal blocks archeological data seem to indi- ter measured 655mt, we will marking the sacred area, which cate the C6 BC as a likely date, take a moment to consider the was probably in the open. We corresponding to the epoch of most significant section from an are still on Mount Circe and the founding of the Latin architectural standpoint, the precisely on Circe’s Peak, at an colony. We will find similar “Western Wall”, that in its 6 altitude of 504 metres.

43 ITINERARY 10

Churches and monuments

In S. Felice Circeo, the Church of S. Maria degli partially - thanks to an impres- Angeli: a sanctuary consecrated to the Archeological highlights sive restoration concluded in Holy Shroud. Museum of Sea and the the late 1980s - it was built Coast, and the Exhibit “Homo Sapiens over the remains of other villas and the Habitat”. In Sabaudia the from the Republican period, “Emilio Greco” Museum, in the Town THE GUATTARI GROTTO and is included in the Circeo Hall, houses the works of the famous National Park. The monumen- artist: bas-reliefs, plaster figures, medals tal complex consists of buil- and a vast collection of lithographs, engra- vings and drawings. dings with rich marble decora- tions and large structures devo- Food ted to the care of the body and spirit in the authentic Roman tradition. This implied the crea- Local cuisine is tied both to the sea, abounding in tion of hydraulic works and the fish, and to the land, rich San Felice Circeo: the Guattari Grotto construction of a system of in vegetables. Tradition The Promontory and its grot- cisterns. offers rustic pizza in the toes guarded astonishing evi- The villa is divided into two wintertime, and grilled or fried fish dence for thousands of years; a areas - north and south - con- in the summer: mullets, cod, bass, human cranium from the nected by long avenues and shrimp and crayfish. Neanderthal period, whose forms of life went extinct 30,000 years ago, was found perfectly intact in a hollow sec- Wineine tion on this site. Placed at the centre of a circle of stones, “Circeo” is produced in according to the most recent the area of the Pontine interpretations, the cranium coast, between Latina, was brought there by carnivo- Sabaudia, San Felice Sabaudia: the Villa of Domitian rous animals (jena maculata) Circeo and Terracina. Although whose remains, along with promenades. The northern sec- white, rosé and red varieties exist, other 600 fossil bones of 14 tion includes a large pool it is the strong-tasting dry red that species of Pleistocene fauna, (59x32mt) enclosed by corri- has recently become popular. form the treasure of this prehi- dors dating from the first con- storic ore body. struction phase of the villa. Sabaudia Crafts The numerous goldsmith ROME HE ILLA OF OMITIAN T V D Superintendence for laboratories hand down Considered one of the most Archeological Assets of Lazio the art to the new genera- imposing residences of the Via Pompeo Magno, 2 - 00192 Roma tions, creating actual “schools”. imperial era, the villa was the ph. +39 06.32659653 Creativity, taste and technique con- summer resort of the Emperor fax +39 06.3214447 tribute to innovate the product of Web site: these master goldsmiths who over Domitian (C1 AD) built on www.archeolz.arti.beniculturali.it the years have developed the special the eastern side of the Paola Email: ability to reproduce exceptional [email protected] Lake. Brought to light only ancient jewels.

44 San Felice Circeo • Sabaudia

Strada Mediana

Via Appia

Lago di Fogliano Pontinia Fogliano Lido di Latina Borgo Grappa Borgo S. Donato Lago dei F. Sisto Torre di Fogliano Monaci

Ris. Nat. Lestra Parks della Coscia Lago di Ris. Nat. Piscina THE NATIONAL PARK OF CIRCEO Caprolace delle Bagnature covers 8500 hectares correspon- Ris. Nat. Piscina Borgo Vodice ding to most of the coastal region, della Gattuccia part of the area of the Promontory PARCO NAZIONALE of Circeo and the island of DEL CIRCEO Zannone. The Park includes the archeological areas of Sabaudia, San Felice Circeo, the state-owned Sabaudia forest of 3300 hectares, 4 coast Lago lakes and the Mediterranean dune. di Sabaudia Molella Borgo We can visit the park on foot or by Lido di Sabaudia Villa di Domiziano Montenero bike, thanks to the paths and cycle Baia lanes both on the d’Argento Fonte di coast side and Lucullo towards the pro- Torre Paola montory and we can practice a bit of Grotta della Monte San Felice Circeo bird-watching Maga Circe Circeo amidst the greenery. Acropoli Faro di di Circe We point out the blooming of the Torre Cervia sea-lily in July and remind you that we are in one of the richest Mar Tirreno natural environments in Italy. 0246810km

Fairs/Events Local curiosities Shopping

In San Felice Circeo, in In these places rich The area of the Port of early September, the in myth and magic San Felice Circeo is a tra- Blue Fish Festival, an it will seem to us, as we look at ditional meeting place and ideal for authentic triumph of flavours and Monte Circeo from the beach, to a promenade along elegant bouti- traditions. recognize the profile of the legen- ques where we can find the most On August 15, Sabaudia celebra- dary Sorceress Circe laying down: prestigious brands of international tes the SS.Annunziata. her long mane of hair immersed in fashion along with typical restau- the sea, her face, with the hooked rants overlooking the sea. The histo- nose and forehead, her neck and rical center and Viale Tittoni are also chest. perfect for strolling and shopping.

45 ITINERARY 10

San Felice Circeo • Sabaudia Useful Info

GETTING THERE CONNECTIONS WITH From Rome, take the Via THE ISLANDS Pontina up to Latina, then con- Motorboat to Ponza: tinue along the Strada Mediana Linea Pontina Navigazione: to the junction for Sabaudia, ph. +39 0773 544157 then to the junction for San USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Felice Circeo. San Felice Circeo: S. Maria degli PORTS AND DOCKS Angeli ph. +39 0773 540566 San Felice Circeo: tourist port Grotta Guattari: Giardino Hotel for over 400 equipped berths Neanderthal, ph. +39 0773 548016. on the wharves. Monday and Thursday by reservation. Museum of the Sea and the Coast Torre Badino ph. +39 0773 511340 Exhibit “Homo Sapiens and the Habitat” ItinerariesItineraries - ph. +39. 0773 547770 Sabaudia: “Emilio Greco” Museum San Felice Circeo Sorceress Circe. Scuba-diving ph. +39 0773 515791 An excursion by boat along the excursions are also possible. Villa of Domitian: in the Park, in the coast, right up to the magnifi- Spa of the Spring of Lucullus area of Palazzo, district of Molella. cent Torre Paola - Near the remains of the Villa of built by Pope Paul III Domitian, we can refresh oursel- Visits must be arranged by appoint- Farnese to defend the ves with the mineral waters of ment with the Management of the nearby port - will the Fonte di Lucullo, a spring of National Park of Circeo allow us to enjoy the cold water located in a Roman ph. +39 0773 511385 beauty of the coast, grotto of the 1st century BC. NATIONAL PARK OF CIRCEO: known for its nume- The water is beneficial for ail- Management: Via Carlo Alberto, 107 rous fascinating Karstic ments of the digestive apparatus Sabaudia (LT) ph. +39 0773 511385 Info Point: “Porta del Parco” in the Torre Paola grottoes. The most and of the urinary tract. famous ones include the historical centre of San Felice Circeo Blue Grotto, the Grotto of the TERME DI ph. +39 0773 549038 and of FONTE LUCULLO Goats, the Grotto of the Sabaudia ph. +39 0773 515046 Fassellone and that of the GROTTA DI For excursions in the Park and recreatio- SAN FELICE CIRCEO MAGA CIRCE nal activities: Cooperativa Mela TORRE PAOLA Cotogna ph. +39 0773 511206

Seat of the APT Latina

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI LATINA Via Duca del Mare, 19 - 04100 Latina Ph. +39 0773695404 - Fax +39 0773661266 www.aptlatinaturismo.it

46 ITINERARY 11 TerracinaTerracina ViaVia AppiaAppia A glass of Moscato reflects the beauty of this town: intense colours, strong fragrances, traditions that last through time. Caught between the hills and the sea, surrounded by the promontories of Circeo and Gaeta, Terracina lies right there with its historical center suspen- ded between antiquity and the present. It will be like travelling through time in an instant, amidst traces of its Roman origins, the splendour of the Middle Ages and the evidence of the rebirth in the 18th century. We will then arrive at the present, rich in history and tradition, and enjoy its tourist and seaside resort setting, the long white beach, the atmosphere of the port, and the age-old tranquillity of the small fishermen’s port. Terracina: the ancient Appian Way

Archeological highlights

of the temple are to be found on Terracina the terrace above. It measured TEMPLE OF JUPITER ANXUR 18.70 x 32.56mt. and was The remains of the imposing doubtlessly devoted to the wors- sanctuary rise on the top of the hip of Venus, in spite of its name Terracina: the Temple of Jupiter Anxur Monte Sant’Angelo with its that refers to the father of the Tsplendid view. Owing to its directly in the rock from the sec- gods. historical value and its harmo- tion supported by foundations nious integration with its natural below the ground. The complex THE EMILIAN FORUM setting and the surrounding dates from the first decades of In the Piazza del Municipio, in archeological site, it has been the C1 BC and has a “facade” the heart of the old city, the ori- declared “natural monument” consisting of 12 communicating ginal pavement of rectangular and it is still possible to distin- vaulted rooms connected at the slabs of limestone still preserves guish the part that was cut back by a corridor. The remains the inscription placed by Aulo

47 ITINERARY 11

Churches and monuments

Civic Archeological Museum “Pio Capponi” Archeological highlights Piazza Municipio Terracina: historical center ph. +39 0773 707313. Info at the Culture Office Emilio, who ordered the con- towards the south, was exten- ph. +39 0773 707277. struction of the Emilian Forum. ded at different times. The Cathedral of San Cesareo The buildings in the modern greatest innovation was the (C11 AD) Piazza del Municipio square trace the ancient acropolis variant built by Trajan in the ph. +39 0773 701100. of which evidence of varying early C2 AD. Along the new relevance indicates the vastness. Appia Traianea, it was possible Among the ruins of temples, to reach Brindisi from Rome on columns, walls and the theatre, a 365-mile (540km) route that Food stands the arch beneath which the poet Horace covered in 14 the Appian Way passed and that days in 37 BC. The sea is the real provided the entrance to the The Appian Way emerges near protagonist of Terracina’s traditional Forum. During the Middle Ages Terracina at its 100th kilometer, cuisine: locally caught fish provides the cathedral of San Cesareo was in the area of Ponte Maggiore, many ancient recipes such as fried built above the foundations of where it crosses the Valle dei fish, grilled prawns and the tasty the Great Temple of which the Santi in what is actually an open fish soup.The land also provides podium in opus quadratum still archeological site. The route goes ancient flavours: stewed goat’s meat remains. up in the hilly area towards the and polenta with “spuntature” city from the Porta Romana and continues towards the eastern side with the section along the Wineine coast opened on the sea in Trajan’s era by cutting a spur of The tradition rock, the Pisco Montano. of wine The large stone slabs of basaltic making in this rock (“basoli”), typical of the area dates back construction technique of to the C2 BC., and Roman roads, make the paving the “Moscato” of Terracina dry of the Appian Way a true symbol and sweet, can still be enjoyed of the creativity, pragmatism and today. functionality that permeated the The Appian way: “basolato” Roman civilization. THE APPIAN WAY Built by Appius Claudius the Crafts Blind in 312 BC to connect Rome to Capua, the Appian The patient and silent Way is the most ancient of the ROME Superintendence for preparation of fishing great roads starting from Rome Archeological Assets of Lazio nets is the expression of and for this reason was called Via Pompeo Magno, 2 - 00192 Roma an age-old craft that is now disap- regina viarum (queen of roads) ph. +39 06.32659653 pearing. by the poet Statius. The first sec- fax +39 06.3214447 Terracina is also the centre of gold Web site: tion is the most ancient and and amber manufacture: particular, www.archeolz.arti.beniculturali.it charming jewels made by a school covered a distance of 132 Roman Email: that blends craftmade techniques [email protected] miles, corresponding to 195 km and goldsmith art. and following Rome’s expansion 48 Terracina • Via Appia

MONTI AUSONI Monte Calvo Ruderi di Sibilla

F. Amaseno Fondi Monte S. Biagio

Via Appia MONUMENTO Torre NATURALE dell’Epitaffio Via Appia CAMPO SORIANO Monte Leano Lago di Fondi canale Acqua Chiara

F. Portatore

Via Flacca Lago San Puoto Tempio di Giove Anxur Torre Sta. Anastasia Porto Terracina Lago Lungo Badino Mar Tirreno Sperlonga

Parks

The natural and geological Area of Camposoriano extends about 3km, from Terracina to Sonnino. From the valley, up through the hilly area, we meet the Madonnina cultivated areas and orchards, this of Leano (676mt) looking over the protected natural area, declared Pontina Plane, and arrive in the “Natural Monument” by a regio- heart of this Karstic territory with nal law, should not be missed. 0246810km its large rock formations that look like stone icebergs. Between its

Fairs/Events Local curiosities Shopping

Sea Festival: around the Founded as a fishing Shops and canteens middle of July a procession of boats, town, Terracina is where we can find local decorated in honour of the Virgin twinned with as many as eight craftsmanship and gastronomical Mary of the Carmel, follows the cities: Bad Homburg (Germany), specialties. “paranzella”, the boat that has the Cabourg (France), Coira The very central “Corso” Anita privilege of transporting the image of (Switzerland), Bad Monford Garibaldi offers elegant boutiques Mary out to sea.The third Saturday (Luxembourg), Mayrhofen and traditional shops, but also pla- and Sunday of the month the (Austria), Jurmala (Lettonia), ces in which to discover local Antique Fair “Cinque Piazze” in the Exeter (Great Britain), and Pécs customs. Historical Center. (Hungary).

49 ITINERARY 11

TerracinaTerracina •• ViaVia AppiaAppia

Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS From Rome, take the Via Fishermen’s Canal Port Pontina, then the province road Port of Terracina: 156 in direction of Sezze up to Depth from 2,80mt to 3,50mt. the intersection with the Via And two docks for sports crafts Appia. Continue south along the Via Appia up to Terracina. Foce Badino: Great Canal of Badino( for nautical assistance) USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS river dock from 2,10mt to Natural and geological Area 2,70mt of Camposoriano. Foce Sisto: along the homony- Info ph. +39 0773 727759 mous river, suitable for small boats CONNECTIONS WITH THE ISLANDS District maritime office Motorboat port for Ponza: ph. +39 0773 720060 Mazzella ph. +39 0773 723406

The Towers of Leano and the sea at Terracina

ItinerariesItineraries

Following the Litoranea in the 3rd century AD. Flacca (Coast Road) that starts A great opportunity for a bike from Terracina and reaches ride or a walk through the Sperlonga and Gaeta, we can Mediterranean bush. partly trace the route of the road opened SPERLONGA TERRRACINA GAETA Litoranea Flacca

Seat of the APT Latina

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI LATINA Via Duca del Mare, 19 - 04100 Latina Ph. +39 0773695404 - Fax +39 0773661266 www.aptlatinaturismo.it

50 ITINERARY 12 SperlongaSperlonga FondiFondi

From the Monti Ausoni to the sea; typical products, vegetables and wines await us in a climate of sincere cordiality. This area, amidst hills, lakes and the sea, was favoured by illustrious ancient Romans as a holiday resort. The fascinating medieval fortresses were erected in later times as defense from the pirates sailing on the Tyrrhenian Sea, and today provide unique views. The sea Sperlonga shares with nearby Fondi, located higher up, is one of the cleanest in Italy and the surrounding natural oases and parks are the treasures of a landscape that has remained virtually intact.

Sperlonga: Porta Carrese

Archeological highlights

sists of the main body of the vil- Sperlonga la, the bath complex, the residen- THE VILLA OF THE tial section, the grotto with the GROTTO OF TIBERIUS nymphaeum, and a basin ending The residential complex is attri- in a pool with a imperial tricli- buted to the emperor Tiberius nium at its centre from which Tbecause historians Suetonius and the sculptures of Deeds of Tacitus mention the collapse of a Hercules could be admired. The grotto (spelunca) in which the Sperlonga: Villa of the Grotto of Tiberius precious sculptures were in fact emperor was saved by Sejanus. Erected on the side of a natural found in the famous Grotto of The site was brought to light at sea grotto, it is the most grandio- Tiberius (nymphaeum), recon- the end of the 1950s during se of the summer residences built structed and are now on display excavations for the construction on the coast of Lazio between the in the adjoining National of the modern Via Flacca. C1 BC and the C2 BC. It con- Archelogical Museum of

51 ITINERARY 12

Churches and monuments

Sperlonga: The National Archeological Museum Archeological highlights houses reconstructions of the large sta- tuary groups related to the myth of Ulysses. Fondi: The historical center typical “Roman quadrilateral” with the Caetani Castle ( C13- C15 plan, with the Cardus and AD). Opposite the Castle, the Decumanus - dates from the C4 Renaissance Palace of the Princes (C15 BC, as indicated by the techni- AD). Cathedral of St. Peter (C12 AD) que of the polygonal walls. built above a temple dedicated to Jupiter. The Fondi Antiquarium, housed in the cloister of Saint Francis Food Villa of the Grotto of Tiberius: the vivaria (present seat of the Town Hall), and the stibadium contains a statue of a man in a Tradition offers vegetables Sperlonga. They represent the toga from between the end of the and salads “in pinzimonio” , myth of the great Greek hero and C2 BC and the beginning of the with the excellent local extra are often of impressive propor- C1 BC, and a limestone funerary virgin olive oil. Soup with tions. Their late Hellenistic style relief of the late Republican “erbe pazze” – chicory, wild fennel, anticipated the date of their period. Numerous other objects and borage, picked in the fields – or making to the C1 BC. constitute the archeological patri- with peas and fresh onions, are The most curious feature was the mony of this ancient civitas famous. We can also find delicious large fish farm fed by springs romana. watermelons and grapes.

and provided with a system that Sperlonga: Roman wall made the sections used for fish hatching emerge from the brac- Wineine kish water of the lake. Already in the C2 BC, the area of the Fondi plane offered the fundanum and the famous caecubum, considered one of the best wines in Italy. Thanks to its great commer- cial success it was exported to Gaul already in the C2 BC. The Cecubo produced today is a dry red wine.

Crafts Sperlonga, Museum of the Villa of Tiberius: Ulysses Sperlonga offers refined ROME Superintendence for woodwork, wood inlay Archeological Assets of Lazio and wood mosaics that Fondi Via Pompeo Magno, 2 - 00192 Roma decorate furniture and objects. The creation of rustic fur- According to legend, the city was ph. +39 06.32659653 fax +39 06.3214447 niture is also significant. founded by Hercules. In the C6 Web site: BC Fundi was a Volscan city, yet www.archeolz.arti.beniculturali.it the central urban nucleus from Email: the Middle Ages -that recalls the [email protected]

52 Sperlonga • Fondi

Orto botanico Fondi

Monte S. Biagio Via Appia Via Appia Torre dell’Epitaffio

Lago di Fondi canale Acqua Chiara

Itri Lago San Puoto Tempio di Giove Anxur Torre S. Anastasia Lago Lungo

Sperlonga Villa Romana Parks Grotta Mar Tirreno di Tiberio The Regional Park of the Riviera di Ulisse Torre S. Agostino consists of three areas fea- tured by particular envi- ronmental and cultural values: the Regional Park of Giànola - Monte di Didactic and underwater iti- Scauri, the Regional Park of Monte neraries, boat rides and sea- Orlando and the natural monument watching sessions in a setting where that is the Promontory of the Villa nature and archeological assets of Tiberius and the Capovento coexist in perfect harmony, can be Tower – Punta Cetarola. The sea arranged. Fondi: Botanical Garden washing the shores of the Villa of of the Monti Ausoni with the typical Tiberius is a Blue Oasis and entru- flora and vegetation of the area. 0246810km sted to the custody of WWF Italy. Guided visits can be reserved.

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Fondi: September 10 is the An agricultural area Shops and typical day of the procession in already in Roman restaurants and trat- honour of the Madonna del times, today Fondi is torias provide lots of Cero. International Folklore the seat of one of the most impor- local colour to this Mediterranean Festival “Città di Fondi”. Every year, tant fruit and vegetable markets town made up of white medieval from the 16th to the 19th of August, in Italy, (the M.O.F) through houses and lovingly cared-for balco- Exhibit of Ancient Agricultural which tons of produce transit nies. The fragrance of sweets and Tools, folk groups from the 5 conti- every year. delicacies fill the streets until late at nents and local groups present their night, when the real heart of the customs and traditions. summer nightlife starts beating .

53 ITINERARY 12

Sperlonga • Fondi

Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS From Rome, take the Via Sperlonga: small municipal port Pontina up to Latina, then con- for small fishing boats and small tinue along the Strada Mediana wet dock for tourist water crafts. up to Terracina. From Terracina, USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS follow the coast road (litoranea) 213 up to Sperlonga or conti- Sperlonga: National Archeological nue on province Museum Via Flacca km 16.300. road 7 up to Info: ph. +39 0771 548028 Fondi. Park of Giànola ph. +39 0771 614268 Regional Parl of Monte Orlando ph. +39 0771 450093 Regional Park of the Riviera di Sperlonga: Torre Truglia Ulisse ph. +39 0771 557341 ItinerariesItineraries

The Beach of the Bambole, of Flacca already in Roman times. Bazzano, d’Angolo and of the From the site where the Canzatora. Spartivento Tower stood until Torre Truglia, on the extreme recently, we can identify the point of the Sperlonga promon- remains of the ancient road with tory, is a fascinating place, con- the substructures of the original Sperlonga: the port nected with the landing of the route. From the modern Via pirate Barbarossa in 1534. Flacca, follow the signs for the Via Flacca: south of Sperlonga, path of the Torre Spartivento. one of the loveliest sections of the coast of Lazio, crossed by the Via TORRE GROTTA DI TRUGLIA TIBERIO SPERLONGA TORRE SPARTIVENTO

Sperlonga: remains of the Spartivento Tower

Seat of the APT Latina

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI LATINA Via Duca del Mare, 19 - 04100 Latina Ph. +39 0773695404 - Fax +39 0773661266 www.aptlatinaturismo.it

54 ITINERARY 13 GaetaGaeta FormiaFormia

The Gulf of Wonders Nature has truly outdone itself here: on the slopes of the Monti Aurunci, down towards the hills broken up by rough promontories, we arrive at the coast and suddenly discover its many spectacular inlets, coves and views. The origins of these cities are ancient and their history is intense. Gaeta was a maritime Republic and seat of the Bourbon monarchy, and Formia was well known by the ancient Romans who loved its shores and built their villas with piscinae and ports there. And the myth of Ulysses returns once again as he may have landed here on his journey home…

Formia: the Tower in the Piazza S. Erasmo

Archeological highlights

Gaeta half of the C1 BC. As was typi- MAUSOLEUM OF LUCIO cal in most mausoleums of the MUNAZIO PLANCO period, a statue of the deceased The mausoleum at the top of was placed at the top of the MMonte Orlando was dedicated tumulus, as indicated by the to General Lucio Manuzio presence of a supporting Planco, founder of Lyon Gaeta:view with Mausoleum of Lucio pilaster at the centre of the (Lugdunum) and of Basilea Munazio Planco tomb. A circular corridor with (Raurica), in the Augustan era. of the mausoleum is crowned four cells surrounded the struc- Only the concrete nucleus lined by a Doric frieze and military ture and shows one of the most with blocks of stone, round in symbols recalling the achieve- ancient examples of brickwork shape and with a diameter of ments of this important politi- in mixed style of brick and net 29,50mt, has survived. The top cian who lived in the second pattern.

55 ITINERARY 13

Churches and monuments

Gaeta: Sanctuary of the Montagna Spaccata inclu- Archeological highlights ding the Chapel dedicated to Saint Filippo Neri, the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and the Church of SS. Trinità. Byzantine Church of San Giovanni a MAUSOLEUM OF LUCIO Formia Mare (C 12 AD) and the Golden SEMPRONIO ATRATINO Grotto, a Renaissance chapel with pre- This other mausoleum was THE TOMB OF C.D. CICERO cious paintings of the C 16 AD. Formia: dedicated to Lucio Sempronio The most significant monu- Church of Santa Maria ad Martyres. Atratino (born in 73 BC), and ment in the vast archeological is located in the area of area around Formia, it is locat- Food Atratina, incorporated into ed along the Appian Way, in modern buildings. Only parts the direction of Itri, at km. of the circular corridor in con- 139. The attribution of this Gaeta: famous for its tasty black olives and the traditional crete and of the funerary cham- mausoleum is a mere hypothe- “tiella”, a rustic pizza filled with vege- bers have survived. The original sis, given the absence of precise tables, anchovies, small octopus and stone covering was re-utilized indications, but it can be dated seafood seasoned with garlic, capers during the construction of the to the C1 BC on account of and olives. Formia: The city of oran- bell tower of the Cathedral of the building technique and the ges and tangerines offers traditional Gaeta. This mausoleum also style. It is an imposing tower- Neapolitan sweets, such as the belongs to the classical type, like structure, placed at the famous “pastiera”. A typical product and so used to have a tumulus centre of a burial ground sur- of the area is Lenola goat cheese. rounded by a wall in limestone reticulate style with pillow- Wineine shaped stone blocks. The typical wine of the area, pro- duced from Formia to Campania, is the Falernum, a white wine with very noble origins, straw-coloured with green nuances. Formia: two images of the tomb of Cicero at the centre with a statue of the deceased at the top. The tomb Crafts was decorated with a Doric frieze with objects connected Gaeta: celebrated every ROME with priesthood. The lituo, the Superintendence for year at Christmastime, typical staff of the augurs whose Archeological Assets of Lazio the production of arti- order Atratino belonged to, Via Pompeo Magno, 2 - 00192 Roma stic crèches is the spe- appears numerous times. A ph. +39 06.32659653 cialty of local craft, and quote from Suetonius, men- fax +39 06.3214447 is inspired by the deep faith and Web site: strength of the religious culture of tioned again by Saint Jerome, www.archeolz.arti.beniculturali.it the people. helps us date his death, which Email: arrived quite late, in 7 AD. [email protected]

56 Gaeta • Formia

MONTI AURUNCI

Itri

Ventotene: Villa of the Augustan era Via Appia Trivio Parks

Via Appia The sea in front of the town has been declared Blue Oasis and the Formia Torre marine area is managed by the Vendicio Scauri WWF with scientific and didactic Giànola activities. Fishing, navigation and PARCO DI GIÀNOLA E mooring are obviously forbidden. Porto Salvo DEL MONTE DI SCÀURI The seabed is rocky and rich in flo- Gaeta ra and fauna, including the Mar Tirreno Oceanic Posidonia, that we can 0246810km Torre admire on particular boats with PARCO Viola transparent sides. MONTE ORLANDO Gaeta: view from the Church of Saint Francis VENTOTENE: This island of volcanic origin, along with the nearby Santo Stefano, is a protected sea and land natural reserve that preserves remains of ancient Roman villas and fish farms among birds, reptiles and sea-mammals of various species.

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Gaeta: in August, the Sea In 1861, when Gaeta Gaeta: take a pleasant Festival with the spectacular was the capital of the walk through the procession of boats in Kingdom of Naples and King Francis Borgo, along Via honour of the Madonna of II resided in the Villa Caposele, the Indipendenza known as “il budel- Porto Salvo. Formia: at Christmas, surrender of the city was signed lo”, and passing under the arch of living crèches are set up along the there. Mementos of Bourbon culture the Madonnella. The ancient streets and in the town square. June and of the Piedmontese siege are on houses, the liveliness of the shops, 2 is the feast of the patron saint, display in the Central Historic the delicious smell of the local cui- Sant’Erasmo, bishop of Antioch, Cultural Museum “Cardinale De sine, will truly make us feel in the martyred in the ancient city in 303. Vio” in Gaeta. heart of the Mediterranean.

57 ITINERARY 13

GaetaGaeta • Formia

Useful Info

GETTING THERE Port of Santa Maria: in Gaeta, in the motor-ships and hydrofoils for the From Rome, take the Autostrada A1 district of Sant’Erasmo, this small islands, the wide dock also reserves an in direction of Naples up to the exit port offers moorings for small boats. area for a lively touristic port. for Cassino, continue along the SS Port of Gaeta: In the low season “fish- Darsenetta Lido Scogliera: in 630 and then north on the coast high- ing-tourism” is offered with the guid- Vindicio the protective cliff barrier way up to Formia, or further to Gaeta. ance of expert fishermen. We set sail creates an ideal shelter for boats. on a real fishing boat at 7am and sail Porto Caposele: is a tourist port and PORTS AND DOCKS out to sea, four miles from the coast. the seat of a nautical club Gaeta Equipped with fishing lines and bait, (ph. +39 0771 25025) Nautical Base “Flavio Gioia”: the whatever the outcome is, we will tourist port (200 berths) is in a shel- have lunch on board with freshly CONNECTIONS WITH tered roadstead and has a dockyard caught seafood and fish. Gaeta Sea THE ISLANDS and laying up. Excellent reference for Tour: ph. +39 0771 461086 From the Port of Formia connec- nautical tourism. Lungomare Formia tions to the Pontine Islands are Caboto, 98 - ph. +39 0771 311013 Porto Nuovo: besides commercial provided all year round by motor- www.basenautica.com and fishing boat traffic, docking for boats (around two hours for Ventotene, a little longer for ItinerariesItineraries Ponza), or with hydrofoils (55’ for Gaeta: From the town we can fol- Formia: Following the Via Appia, Ventotene, 70’ for Ponza). It is pos- low the signs for the Promontory after the km5 from Formia, we sible to transport cars but severe of Monte Orlando, the main range find a junction indicating Torre traffic limits are enforced on the of the peninsula of Gaeta. A nice Giànola. Remains of a small islands. Info and reservations: walk along the path up to the top ancient Roman port (C1 BC) Caremar - ph. +39 0771 23800 / will take us about 1,30h round await us in a surreal atmosphere +39 0771 22710 trip, if we arrive by car at the par- with crystal-clear water and king lot and continue on foot. We Mediterranean bush, in the Vetor - ph. +39 0771 700710 are in the Regional Park of the Regional Suburban Park of USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Riviera di Ulisse that preserves the Giànola-Monte Scauri. Mausoleum of Lucio Munazio FORMIA TORRE Musum of Palazzo De Vio Planco, among palmettos, age- GIÀNOLA Piazza Cardinale De Vio, 9 old carobs and wild orchids. GAETA ph. +39 0771 464293 PARCO MONTE ORLANDO

Seat of the APT Latina

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58 ITINERARY 14 MinturnoMinturno

Rural and maritime traditions, a spa park and a marine oasis promontories and beaches, a medieval town and Roman ruins: this is the double identity of Minturno, contained in a single history. We are in Lower Lazio where, the natural oasis, we will discover an caught between the sea and the hills, area rich in history. The very ancient two cities share the fame and glory Roman and Aurunci origins, the deriving from the wealth of the domination of the Lombards, archeological remains and the state- Saracens and later of the Normans, liness of the medieval town. In followed by the struggle for power Minturno: between the Promontori d’Oro and among noble families (Caetani, Roman Theatre d’Argento, the ancient golden Colonna, Carafa) lasting until Garigliano and beaches immersed in 1806, are evidence of the strategic importance and wealth of the area.

Archeological highlights

by 296 BC, Minturno reached Minturno the height of its splendour in ARCHEOLOGICAL AREA the C2 BC, as indicated by the OF MINTURNAE presence of temples, porticoes, The vast archeological area con- baths, the macellum, a theatre tains the most ancient settle- and an amphitheatre within the Ament (castrum) in Minturno, circuit of the city walls in opus where the large town whose quadratum. A colony with a remains are still visible devel- lively commercial and social oped in later times. In the pre- Minturno, excavations: opus reticolatum life, with an agricultural area Roman era, the inhabited sec- was the construction of the closer to the hills and a residen- tion of the town already pos- Appian Way that made com- tial section along the coast, in sessed a character of its own, merce flourish and brought full the vicinity of the port and even in its urban layout, but it development. A Roman colony shipyards.

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Churches and monuments

The Medieval Town is known for its exceptional Archeological highlights vaulted ring road. The Baronial Castle (C 9 AD), where Thomas Aquinas was a guest in 1272. Church of Saint Francis (C 14 AD), THEATRE with the convent and the cloister. This magnificent structure built Collegiate Church of Saint Peter in the Augustan era (C1 AD), (C 11 AD): open to worship, it is a with its cavea, scaena and magnificent church with three naves. orchestra, is the real symbol of ancient Minturnae, and is still fit for use. During the radical Minturno, Giànola: Roman Port Food restoration of 1942 most of the its course. The concrete struc- tiers of seats were reconstructed ture started in the area of Capo The area has handed revealing that the full capacity D’Acqua, at the foot of Mount down flavours and recipes from the cuisine of the sea of the theatre could reach 4600 Spigno Saturnia, and was erect- and the hills with obvious references spectators. ed between the end of the to the tradition of Campania, as in republic and the beginning of the production of buffalo mozzarel- AQUEDUCT the imperial era. The aqueduct la. In Spigno Saturnia, near The aqueduct was originally 11 met the city walls - in opus Minturno, we can taste some “gliu km long and has survived in a quadratum of tufa - at the zeppolone”, very tasty omelets with long sequence of arches that Porta Gemina, named after its eggs and fragrant wild vegetables. make it possible to reconstruct two openings. Wineine

The typical wine of the area is the Falernum, straw-coloured with shades of green. It is worth tasting another wine, produced inland, in Atina, towards the border between Campania and Abruzzo. It is the Atina DOC, a more recent red with a fruity scent and a full, dry taste (12°).

Fairs/Events

ROMA Every second Sunday Soprintendenza per i Beni of July, Minturno Archeologici del Lazio relives one of its ancient local tradi- Via Pompeo Magno, 2 - 00192 Roma tions (C14 AD), connected with its ph. +39 06.32659653 rural origins. The “Sagra delle Minturno: archeological area fax +39 06.3214447 Regne”, also known as the “Offerta Sito internet: del Covone”, in honour of the www.archeolz.arti.beniculturali.it Madonna delle Grazie. The “vigila- Email: [email protected] tori” beat the harvested corn, made into bread for the poor.

60 Minturno

MONTI AURUNCI

Ausente

Terme Spigno Saturnia di Suio

Minturno

Via Appia

Torre Scauri Giànola Marina di Minturno Minturnae PARCO DI GIÀNOLA E DEL MONTE DI SCÀURI Mar Tirreno

0246810km

Minturno: Church of S. Pietro apostolo

Parks Local curiosities

REGIONAL MARINE PARK OF res of the Mediterranean The ancient origins of GIÀNOLA AND OF THE MONTE bush, inhabited by foxes, wea- Minturno date to C 5 SCAURI: an oasis comprising the sels, hedgehogs, and reptiles BC, when the Ausoni territory between Formia, Scauri by the protected marine area settled at the mouth of and Minturno. In between the “Blue Oasis”, managed by the Garigliano and built land and sea, on a small peninsula WWF Italy. We can practice their stronghold. The inhabitants ending at the Monte Scauri (128m), sea-watching, with due respect for later moved inland to the site of the we can explore geological and the environment, among archeologi- present town of Minturno, which Karstic formations and their colours, cal ruins of the Roman era (Temple in antiquity was named Traetto scents and sounds, the typical featu- of Janus, C1 BC). after the boats used to ford the river.

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MinturnoMinturno

Useful Info

GETTING THERE PORTS AND DOCKS USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS From Rome, take the In the beach resort of Marina di Blue Oasis WWF Italy Autostrada A1 in the direction Minturno, in the area of Sez. Aurunca of Naples up to the exit for Spiaggia Monte D’Oro, a pic- ph. +39 0771 683850 Cassino, then continue south to turesque tourist port for small the end of the coast highway up boats offers shelter in between to Minturno. the Monte D’Oro and the Monte D’Argento: “Darsena Flying” ph. +39 0771 683925

Minturno, Monti di Scauri: pebble beach

ItinerariesItineraries Minturno, Giànola: Roman Port

The typical “pebble beach” Spa of Suio: In the plain of the from the Latin exsurgere, mean- awaits us on the coast, in the river Garigliano, numerous ing rise - it is still possible to beach resort of Scauri that with springs originating from a single indulge in this ancient, healthy Marina di Minturno offers a underground stratum, created a custom, even just for a day, in wide shore, with very fine sand spa park of cold water, thermal one of the perfectly equipped alternating with sand and rocks, and hypo-thermal, that vary in spa complexes. in the context of thick temperature from 15° to 64° C. Terme di Suio - Via delle Terme, Mediterranean vegetation Classified as sulphurous, bicar- Castelforte (LT). between the Promontories of bonate, calcic, alkaline, earthy, Ph. +39 0771 607925 the Monte D’Oro and the the water has therapeutic prop- www.comune.castelforte.it Monte D’Argento. erties already known in antiqui- SUIO The small Port of Giànola, in ty, when the Roman aristocracy the homonymous Natural Park, chose the “Aquae Vescinae” for was built over the remains of relaxing, healthy holidays. TORRE MINTURNO the ancient fish tank of a At the Spa of Suio - in antiq- GIÀNOLA Roman villa. uity called Suji or Sugi MARINA DI MINTURNO

Seat of the APT Latina

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI LATINA Via Duca del Mare, 19 - 04100 Latina Ph. +39 0773695404 - Fax +39 0773661266 www.aptlatinaturismo.it

62 Where history meets the sea Where history meets the sea REGIONE LAZIO ASSESSORATO ALLA CULTURA, SPETTACOLO, SPORT E TURISMO

Via Rosa Raimondi Garibaldi, 7 00145 Roma Ph. +39 0651681 - Fax +39 0651684134 www.regione.lazio.it Where history meets the sea AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DEL COMUNE DI ROMA Via Parigi, 11 - 00185 Roma Ph. +39 06488991 - Fax +39 064819316 Editorial project: APT Rome Visitor Center Carried out by Vitesse - Rome Via Parigi, 5 - 00185 Roma www.romaturismo.it AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA Scientific Board: Superintendence for DELLA PROVINCIA DI ROMA Archeological Assets of Lazio Via XX Settembre, 26 - 00187 Roma Superintendent Anna Maria Reggiani Ph. +39 06421381 - Fax +39 0642138211 www.oltreroma.it Editorial Supervision/Coordination: AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI FROSINONE Adriana Amici Via Aldo Moro, 465 - 03100 Frosinone Ph. +39 077583381 - Fax +39 0775833837 Text: Alessia Petruzzelli www.apt.frosinone.it AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA Graphics and cartographic drawings: DELLA PROVINCIA DI LATINA N. Pietravalle, S. Ranalli Via Duca del Mare, 19 - 04100 Latina Ph. +39 0773695404 - Fax 0773661266 www.aptlatinaturismo.it Translation: Francesca Caruso AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA DELLA PROVINCIA DI RIETI Photos: Archive of the APT of Rome, Simonetta Via Cinthia, 87 - 02100 Rieti Panzironi, Archive of the Superintendence for Ph. +39 0746201146 - Fax +39 0746270446 www.apt.rieti.it Archeological Assets of Lazio

AZIENDA DI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA On the cover: DELLA PROVINCIA DI VITERBO Gaeta, Viola Tower (Simonetta Panzironi), Piazza dell’Oratorio, 2 - Palazzo Doria Pamphili background image the fortifications of the Roman 01030 San Martino al Cimino (VT) coast in a print of 1557 Ph. +39 07613751 - Fax +39 0761379233 www.apt.viterbo.it www.provincia.vt.it Printed by: Stilgrafica - Roma

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REGIONE LAZIO ASSESSORATO ALLA CULTURA, SPETTACOLO, SPORT E TURISMO Where history meets the sea GuideGuide toto thethe archeologicalarcheological treasurestreasures ofof thethe coastcoast ofof LazioLazio

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