GROWING SMALL

Dr. Elena Garcia, PhD BLUEBERRIES: GENERAL BOTANY

26 species exist in N. America, also in , • Lowbush • Highbush • Hybrids: Southern Highbush • Rabbiteye

INFLORESCENCE AND FLOWERS

• ‘Highbush’ are self-fruitful but for better yield, best to two different • Most Rabbiteye require crosspollination • Flowers require bees to pollinate; bumblebees are best

BLUEBERRY

• A true berry ripens 2-3 Stage Description months after bloom Immature Berry hard, dark green green over 100% of the fruit • color varies from blue surface Mature Berry softer, light green to black and pigment is green over 100% of the fruit found in epidermis and surface the hypodermis Green- Primarily light green, some pink pink showing at calyx end • covered with a waxy Blue-pink Primarily blue, some pink cuticle which helps showing at stem end prevent drying - known Blue Nearly completely blue, as "bloom" very little pink immediately around the scar Ripe 100% blue coloration BLUEBERRY

• Roots are fine and fibrous, and have no hairs • Roots are usually shallow and remain within the drip line of the plant • Root system distribution is limited by soil moisture and organic matter • Specific soil requirements • Low absorptive capacity • Cannot penetrate compacted soils • Low tolerance to wet or dry soils

OPTIMAL SOIL CHARACTERISTICS

• pH 4.5 to 5.2 • Organic matter 4 to 7% • Drainage Well drained

WEEDS

Weeds very detrimetal to Blueberries • must evaluate and eliminate prior to planting • avoid if possible • common problems are bermudagrass, johnsongrass, chickweed, clovers, horsetail, blackberry, greenbriar, quackgrass ,sedges

IRRIGATION

Irrigation is essential! • Drip irrigation is a preferable method to overhead irrigation due to increased efficiency and delivery where needed and reduces foliar disease incidence. VARIETY SELECTION

• Northern Highbush • Central and Northern Ark

• Southern Highbush (a relatively new type of blueberry and is a hybrid of the northern highbush and one or more native southern blueberry species. • Central and Southern Ark

• Rabbiteye • Central and Southern Ark http://www.aragriculture.org/horticulture/fr uits_nuts/Blueberries/default.htm SITE PREPARATION: COVER CROPS

• Planting the area the year prior to planting to a grain crop such as corn, or soybeans will also help to reduce future soil insect and weed problems and increase OM. • Cover crops should be plowed down at least 3-4 weeks prior to planting to allow for decomposition. • Be careful using herbicides on these crops with carryover potential, such as atrazine. RAISED BEDS

• Following cultivation of the site, raised ridges 4-6 in. high and 4 ft. wide should be formed. • On many heavier soils, important to plant a slightly raised bed. This will improve drainage during wet winter months. • In some poorly drained sites, perpendicular arrangement of rows across slopes may result in pooling of water, and rows should be aligned with the slope. PLANTING

Blueberry are purchased as either dormant bare-root plants or as potted plants • Planting of bare-root stock should be scheduled as early as possible in the spring (Feb-March) when the danger of severe frost has passed • Containerized plants can be set in the fall (Sept-Oct.), in all but the coldest elevation regions. • 2- or 3-year old nursery plants 12 to 36 inches tall will transplant well. • The roots must be kept moist at all times between digging and replanting PLANTING: USING PEAT MOSS

Blueberries grow best on soil having a higher organic matter content than most Arkansas soils. To improve growth, mix one gallon of wet peat moss with the soil in the bottom of the hole prior to planting. One 6 cubic feet bale of peat is enough for 45 plants. Sawdust, hay, or compost should not be substituted for peat moss because as these materials decompose they may stunt or kill the plants. MULCHING

• recommended for all blueberries; • materials are sawdust, pine needles, etc.; straw will break down quickly • should be surface applied in the row following planting, and kept at a 6" depth • may need to add extra N VALUES OF MULCHING

1. Helps keep soil cool in summer 2. Helps retain soil moisture 3. Adds organic matter, helps in nutrition 4. Improves soil structure 5. Helps reduce weed pressure

Do not incorporate the mulch in the soil BLUEBERRY PRUNING

• Concepts 1) Pruning is done to balance the fruiting and growth for the following year. 2) Excess pruning will increase fruit size, but decrease yield 3) Under pruning will result in smaller fruit and less new growth for next year's crop, although higher current yield 4) Thicker stems usually produce more and larger fruit BLUEBERRY PRUNING

Pruning in years 1-4 • remove flower in years 1 and 2 • remove small, twiggy growth at the base of the plants (optional) • objective is to encourage maximum growth for years 1 and 2 LOCATION OF FLOWER BUDS

Flower buds form at the ends of the shoots (arrows). A few will be present on the newly established plants and more will be present next spring. All should be removed the first two years to encourage plant growth. BLUEBERRY PRUNING

Mature plants - 5 years and older 1. Remove all twiggy or short growth from the base of the plant 2. Remove any dead wood 3. Remove approximately 1 cane (at the plant crown) for every 6 canes present. Choose the oldest cane for removal. Usually a maximum of 3/plant removed. 4. Thin out brushy growth in the upper (fruiting) portion of the plant. • Time of pruning - dormant season; late winter best to allow removal of any winter kill REMOVING EXCESS GROWTH

Some blueberry varieties produce excessively twiggy growth. An excess number of fruit buds form on these twiggy growth. By removing it, the excess buds are removed. The remaining buds produce larger, better quality berries. STRAWBERRY STRAWBERRY MORPHOLOGY STRAWBERRY MORPHOLOGY

• Crown - the compact stem which bears the leaves and axillary buds • axillary buds can develop into a runner, or branch crown. This development is based on the environment and nutritional status of the plant. STRAWBERRY MORPHOLOGY

• Runners - stolons which originate from axillary buds in the crown • produce "daughter" plants at the terminal of the stolon • stolon rooting is known as "pegging" • runner production varies as to and environment and is encouraged by long days and warm temperatures STRAWBERRY MORPHOLOGY

• Roots- arise from the base of leaves on the crown • primary roots live for up to one year • 50-90% of roots are in the upper 6" of the soil

STRAWBERRY MORPHOLOGY • Fruit- the commercial, edible fruit is an aggregate type, not a berry • the achene is the actual fruit, containing the seed • fruit development period is 20-50 days after ; mean development period = 30 days • fasciated fruit - misshapen fruit which are often flat • fruit size is dependant on achene number and size due to hormone production during achene development STRAWBERRY- CULTURAL PRACTICES

• Soil • salt problems can be critical; usually from previous fertilization • pH range of 5.5-6.5 • light soils (sandy loam, etc.) best; high organic matter preferred • if soil was previously covered with sod, white grub worms are a potential problem • best to cultivate field the season or before or plant a crop not a host for grubs STRAWBERRY- CULTURAL PRACTICES

Drainage • air and water drainage essential; choose a site higher than the area around it if possible • poor drainage can lead to root diseases Slope • southern slope is usually earlier , but greater frost risk • Avoid steep slopes (higher than 5%)

A source of high-quality water IRRIGATION

• IS required for reliable production • Care with irrigation during fruit ripening • usually 1"/week needed; more can be wasteful due to shallow root system PLANTING DEPTH: CRITICAL BLOSSOM REMOVAL

• dormant plants set in the spring contain flower buds; these buds will develop flowers and fruit and compete with the vegetative activities of the plant such as leaf area, runnering and ultimately daughter plant establishment

• should be pinched off; pulling off can result in the plant being dislodged from the soil FROST DAMAGED BLOSSOMS

The strawberry blossom on the top is frost injured. The pistils (female flower parts) are darkened and killed, while the stamens (male parts) and the rest of the flower show no injury. The strawberry blossom on the bottom has not been frost injured. FLOWERING TYPES

Single croppers or Junebearers • respond to short days and produce one crop • Everbearers • actually produce 2 main crops: one in the Spring and one in late Summer • often do not produce many runners • Day neutrals • multiple cropping types • do not depend on day length for flower induction; long day plants; becoming more common in many new cultivar development programs • Commercial production

BRAMBLES (RASPBERRIES AND BLACKBERRIES) BLACKBERRY AND RASPBERRY

• Family: Rosaceae • Blackberries and dewberries • fruit with receptacle (torus) • Red and black raspberries • fruit hollow, receptacle remains on the pedicel Raspberry Morphology FRUITING HABITS Primocane • Vegetative, first year growth • Growth begins in the spring • Buds form at the leaf axils • Axillary buds begin to differentiate when the terminal stops growing at the end of the season • In some species of raspberries, primocanes will flower in the fall— primocane fruiting or fall fruiting • More common in red raspberries, seen in some black and purple raspberries

FRUITING HABITS

• Floricane fruiting (second year of growth of the primocane): • Blackberries • Black and Purple Raspberries - usual type • Productivity of a cane is correlated to floricane diameter • U of A has released some primocane fruiting blackberries

ADAPTATION

Blackberry • not adapted to areas with extreme winter cold; this limits production in North U.S. • not adapted to hot, dry windy plains • can withstand fluctuating temperatures of the South

Raspberry • adapted to cold climates; up to -50° F survival • not adapted to humid and hot climates • fluctuating winter temperatures are a problem in the South, since they have a short rest period and leaf out too early SITE SELECTION

Adapted to a wide range of soil types, light to medium texture best • good water drainage is essential; water table not within 3' of surface • pH range of 5.5-6.5 • crown can be a problem if site has been heavily infested area • full sun needed • wind can contribute to cane breakage; wind break may be needed PLANTING Blackberries: 1) root cuttings - pencil sized, 4-6" long, space 2' apart, 3-4" deep, horizontally 2) plants - prune back to a 4-6" stem; space 2-3' apart' occasionally 4' Use plants for thornless cultivars since roots do not sprout as readily Raspberries • plants, space 2-4' apart; set at same depth as grown in the nursery • virus free plants very important in raspberry planting • plant during the dormant season; late winter or early spring best

Make sure plants are kept moist while planting. POLLINATION

• All raspberry and blackberry cultivars grown in Arkansas are self-fertile.

TRELLISING

Erect Blackberries and Black and Purple Raspberries • some growers use 2 wires; one along each side of the row to support the canes Semi-erect and Trailing Blackberries • must be trellised

Red Raspberries • are erect-growing but usually are supported by some type of trellis HORIZONTAL 2-WIRE TRELLIS PRUNING GRAPES TYPES OF GRAPES

1) European Vitis vinifera 2) American Vitis labrusca 3) French hybrids • Hybrids between native American spp. and V. vinifera 4) Other native American Species MUSCADINE GRAPES

• Muscadine grapes (Vitis rotundifolia) • Very resistant to common grape diseases • Do not cross readily with bunch grapes • Unique flavor and texture • Adapted to warmer climates • Plant only in areas where winter temperatures do no fall below 10 F GRAPE MORPHOLOGY • Trunk • - grows from a bud of a rooted cutting • - growing point is the apical part where new leaves develop - region of cell division and elongation • - is permanent and supports the aboveground part of the vine GRAPE MORPHOLOGY

Stem • - on mature vines, grows from the trunk or other renewal point • - new growth or current season's growth is a shoot • - a mature shoot after leaf fall is a cane • - the internode is the area between buds • - the node is the area that contains a leaf and a bud GRAPEVINE: GENERAL STRUCTURE FRUIT STAGES

Veraison SUNSHINE

• Amount of sunshine • - maximum sunshine needed for high development • - training system and vineyard design should maximize light utilization POLLINATION

• Most grapes are self-fruitful and do not require pollinizers; however, pistillate muscadines (e.g., 'Fry', 'Higgins', 'Jumbo') must be interplanted with perfect- flowered cultivars for pollination. • All grapes require pollination for fruit set. • Pollination is accomplished by wind, and to a lesser extent insects.

OTHER FRUITS AND NUTS FIGS

• Easy fruit to grow! • Highest fiber fruit! • Weirdest sex in plant kingdom! • Sycophants are fig-eaters • Easy to propagate! • Can’t find fresh in stores!

FIG TYPES

1. Caprifig. "Male", but actually bears both staminate and pistillate flowers. Inedible; used to pollinate Smyrna and San Pedro types; grown outside the orchard, picked prior to wasp emergence, and hung in baskets in . 2. Smyrna fig. Requires pollination for fruit set, but wasp does not oviposit in fruit, styles too long. One main crop/yr, the "second" crop; first crop is very light, only a few fruits/. 'Calimyrna' is the only Smyrna cultivar grown in , and is the most widely produced cultivar. 3. Common fig. Parthenocarpic; first crop borne on 1-yr-old wood, second crop borne on current season's growth. Most commercial cultivars are found in this group: 'Mission', 'Kadota' (syn. 'Dottato'), 'Magnolia' (syn. 'Brunswick'), 'Brown ', 'Celeste' 4. San Pedro fig. Combined characteristics of Smyrna and Common figs. First crop - parthenocarpic, called "brebas"; second crop - requires pollination by wasp. Rarely cultivated commercially. WHERE FIGS SET FRUIT

• Breba Crop • Last year’s wood

• Main Crop • This year’s wood

Brown Turkey HOW TO GROW FIGS

• Plant them • Don’t over feed • Minimally prune • No pollination • No sprays • Protect tender ones in winter

• FULL SUN!

FIG VARIETIES

• Many synonyms! • Dark Varieties • Light Varieities FIG VARIETIES

Parthenocarpic Brown Turkey = Texas Everbearing – bronzed colored figs, longer season, most common, 10oF Celeste – light bronze colored figs, prefered taste, slightly more cold hardy 0oF Kadota – green figs Hunt – bronze, will not fruit after cold damage Ischia – green figs, will not fruit after cold damage Magnolia – Bronze with white flecks

HARVEST

Necks wilt and fruit droops if produce milky latex not ripe

Latex can be a skin irritant TO HASTEN RIPENING

• Add drop of oil to ostiole. • Aids in late varieties like Celeste’s main crop PROPAGATION

 6 to 8 inch cuttings in late winter or fall Root Suckers Layering PECAN CULTURE

• Deep rooted • Deep, well-drained soil • Soil pH of 6 to 7 • Native vs.Improved • Cross pollinated • Disease resistance • Ripening date • Large trees PECAN CULTURE CONT. • Pecans are wind pollinated • Separate male and female flowers on same tree • Early pollen shed vs. late pollen shed PECAN SCAB ON FRUIT STINKBUG DAMAGE AMERICAN PERSIMMON

• Native to eastern US • A small to medium sized tree to 60 feet with a round-topped crown of crooked branches. In forest stands the stem may be straight, tall, and slender • Fruit needs to be eaten when fully ripe • An unripe fruit “will draw a man’s mouth awire with much torment. When a persimmon is ripe, it is as delicious as an apricot” AMERICAN PERSIMMON PAWPAW

• Also known as the “Hoosier bananas” • Native to the temperate woodlands of the eastern U.S. • The American Indian is credited with spreading the pawpaw across the eastern U.S. to eastern Kansas and Texas, and from the Great Lakes almost to the Gulf. prove the pawpaw is indigenous to the U.S. • Fruit combines the best banana, vanilla custard, pineapple, and mango • Young trees need shade

PAWPAW POMEGRANATE

• Nice ornamental , 6 – 12 ft • Thorny branches • Generally not productive in AR because of fall cold snaps and late spring frost, and winter temperatures below 10oF

POMEGRANATE

Fruiting varieties – vase shaped flowers Wonderful, Sweet Spanish Paper Shell, Ruby Red, Granade, Non-fruiting Varieties – bell shaped flowers