4 Wonderful Colours! Périgord Vert

Périgord Blanc Périgord Périgord Pourpre Noir 4 Wonderful Colours! To book your holiday, please contact LOISIRS ACCUEIL PÉRIGORD This reservation service is able to book accommodation (seasonal rental properties, B&Bs), hotel rooms, mobile-homes on campsites, or holiday village chalets throughout the département. Themed packages, such as cookery courses, tours by car, and hiking, cycling or canoeing trips can also be booked through this service.

For online bookings, log onto: • www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr • www.perigord-reservation.com For further information: E-mail: [email protected]

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Castle Troglodyte village

Abbey Museum Parks and gardens

Prehistoric cave Beautiful garden For brochures and other documentation: Caves with stalagmites Tourist Office E-mail: [email protected] Prehistoric site, Lake shelter, cave 4 Wonderful Colours!

CONTENTS A Tale of Four Colours ...... 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 An ever-changing landscape • From the Green Périgord to the White Périgord • Via the Purple Périgord and the Black Périgord

Wonderful History ...... 6 - 7 An exceptional cultural heritage - 450,000 years of history • Prehistory • Castles, churches and abbeys

Wonderful Places to Visit ...... 8 - 9 • Beautiful villages and Towns of Art and History

Wonderful Nature ...... 10 - 11 • Rivers • Parc Naturel Régional Périgord-Limousin • Delightful gardens • Outdoor Pursuits - Hiking - Public leisure areas

Wonderful Gastronomy ...... 12 - 13 A Paradise for the Senses • The black Périgord truffle and foie gras • Cep mushrooms, Périgord walnuts and chestnuts • Strawberries and Bergerac wines Products of the highest quality

Wonderful People ...... 14 - 15 Local Skills and Traditions • Markets • Arts and Crafts

Wonderful Places to Stay ...... 16 Accommodation

PUBLISHER: Dordogne Tourist Board - 25, rue du Président Wilson - B.P. 2063 - 24002 PÉRIGUEUX Cedex DESIGN & LAYOUT: www.creationlambert.com - Route du Maine - 24150 - +33 (0)5 53 61 02 60 PHOTOS: Amridesign - DT Dordogne - Dominique Repérant - Alain Dupuy - Philippe Jacques - Le Coz - Spadzone - OT Brantôme - OT Périgueux Alain Devize - Pub Image - Semitour - Roulland - Nidos - OT Bergerac - OT intercommunal du Périgord Noir - CIVRB - Laugery - Leroux - Auberge de la Truffe TRANSLATION: Telelingua - www.telelingua.co.uk 1 A TALE OF 4 COLOURS

Green Périgord Extending across the most northerly swathe of the Dordogne département, the Green Périgord takes its name from its profuse vegetation and numerous streams and rivers (such as the Dronne, , Auvézère and Bandiat), as well as its varied natural landscapes and rich historical heritage. These natural assets have led to the creation of the Parc Naturel Régional Périgord Limousin, which extends across two départements. One of the park’s main aims is to protect and conserve local resources and traditional skills.

On the border with the Charente, natural features such as meadows, wooded hills, cultivated fields on chalky plateaux, and the lakes and trees of the Forêt de la Double combine to create the gentle and harmonious landscapes of the Val de Dronne.

The attractive natural landscapes of the region are further embellished by its charming traditional houses, Romanesque art and fine architecture visible in towns such as Brantôme and St Jean de Côle.

2 A TALE OF 4 COLOURS

White Périgord

Situated in the heart of the département, the White Périgord takes its name from the whiteness of the region’s stone, which is so prized by sculptors. The area is crossed by the Isle and Auvézère rivers, which offer excellent fishing, and is also home to Périgueux, the old city of Vesunna with its Gallo-Roman remains. Périgueux, the capital of the département, is a “Town of Art and History”, with narrow streets bordered by townhouses in its protected historical districts and the Saint-Front cathedral, a stopping point along the Way of St James UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This region is traditionally known for its homely cuisine, often flavoured with truffles, a local delicacy which is highlighted at the eco-museum in Sorges. Regional produce, such as strawberries and fatted ducks and geese, has pride of place in the lively markets which are held here throughout the year.

A trip to the White Périgord would not be complete without a visit to its castles, delightful villages and museums dedicated to local crafts and traditions. 4 Wonderful Colours!

3 A TALE OF 4 COLOURS

Purple Périgord Vineyards and bastide towns are the two jewels of the Purple Périgord, situated to the south-west of the département. Standing in the heart of these famous vineyards which cover an area of 12,000 hectares (the region has 13 appellation contrôlée vineyards, including , Pécharmant and Montravel) is the town of Bergerac, often mistakenly associated with Cyrano, the famous long-nosed character created by novelist Edmond Rostand. However, the town does boast the French author Michel de Montaigne as one of its native sons.

The old town of Bergerac has retained much of its 14C, 15C and 16C architecture, including many half-timbered houses. The development of the town was closely linked to the wine industry and the proximity of the Dordogne river. As a result, Bergerac is the ideal base for exploring the region’s vineyards and old villages.

The fortified towns known as bastides (, Beaumont, , Lalinde, Molières etc) bear witness to the conflict between the French and English which took place in the Périgord from the 12C onwards.

4 A TALE OF 4 COLOURS

Black Périgord In the south-east of the département, the Black Périgord is recognised worldwide for the wealth of prehistoric remains in the Vézère and Dordogne valleys and has been designated as an International Centre for Prehistory. The Vézère valley is home to some of the richest prehistoric sites in Europe, including Palaeolithic sites, caves and natural rock shelters. Fifteen of these decorated sites are classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The Dordogne river meanders between impressive limestone cliffs and holm oak forests. This valley has a concentration of the most beautiful buildings of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, including castles perched on rocky promontories, the villages of Domme, Beynac and La Roque-Gageac and, of course, Sarlat, officially classified as a “Ville d’Art et d’Histoire” (“Town of Art and History”).

With its lauze stone roofs, Sarlat has retained much of its extraordinary architecture, characterised by medieval houses and Renaissance mansions. Most of its monuments are listed or protected historic monuments. 4 Wonderful Colours!

5 AN EXCEPTIONAL CULTURAL HERITAGE – 450,000 YEARS OF HISTORY

Prehistory The Vézère valley, which takes its name from the river running through it, is also known as the Valley of Mankind. The valley is one of ’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, thanks to the many prehistoric sites found here. Homo sapiens settled in the limestone cliffs here, and it was also in this valley, particularly around Lascaux, that prehistoric art first developed.

In Montignac, the original Lascaux cave (dubbed the “Sistine Chapel of Prehistory”) is no longer open to the public but a facsimile shows faithful reproductions of many of its most beautiful frescoes.

The two galleries reproduced illustrate parietal art from Cro- Magnon through to Magdalenian man.

There is a concentration of major sites in and around de Tayac, which together form a coherent group of prehistoric remains: these include paintings in the Font de Gaume and Bara-Bahau caves; the engravings at Les Combarelles; the Abri du Poisson; Bernifal; the Abri Pataud; Laugerie Haute; and Laugerie Basse.

At the heart of this open-air “museum” in the Vézère valley, the National Museum of Prehistory reflects the continuing developments in archaeological research. Re-opened in 2004, the museum now houses the largest Palaeolithic collection in France, with exhibits such as worked stone and bone, decorative art, burial items and fauna; it is also home to the world’s leading collection of engraved and sculpted stone from the Palaeolithic period.

Interactive displays and audiovisual sequences help to provide an informative and educational introduction to the prehistoric period.

Caves and crystallised chasms The Black Périgord is also known for its many underground caves which are open to the public, such as the Gouffre de Proumeyssac in , the Grottes de la Halle in Domme, the Grand Roc in Les Eyzies de Tayac, the Grotte de Maxange in Le Buisson de Cadouin, and the Grotte de near .

6 AN EXCEPTIONAL CULTURAL HERITAGE – 450,000 YEARS OF HISTORY

1,001 castles Among the thousand or more castles located in the Périgord, many are open to the public, allowing visitors to enjoy this magnificent aspect of the region’s heritage. Castles include the Château de Jumilhac (13C-18C), perhaps the most romantic residence in the Périgord Limousin area; the Château de Puyguilhem (16C), with its Loire valley-style architecture; and the majestic and imposing Hautefort castle, just a stone’s throw from the Auvézère valley. Also worth a visit are the Château de Losse, its silhouette reflected in the Vézère river; the Château de Castelnaud on the southern bank of the Dordogne, standing opposite Marqueyssac and its gardens; and Beynac, a formidable fortress dating from the Middle Ages. The Purple Périgord also has its fair share of castles, including those of , Monbazillac and Biron.

Churches and abbeys Located along the UNESCO World Heritage route to Santiago de Compostela, the Abbaye de Cadouin is the most important example of monastic architecture in the Périgord. Its cloister is a masterpiece of the Flamboyant Gothic style of architecture, dating from the 15C and 16C. The Cathédrale Saint-Front in Périgueux also stands along the same pilgrim’s route.

The Abbaye de , near Périgueux, is another architectural gem worthy of particular note.

On the border of the Dordogne and the Charente, the Romanesque churches around Ribérac, mostly built during the 12C, are a charming feature of the small villages of the Dronne valley. The Abbaye d’Échourgnac in the middle of the Double forest is a working abbey where the nuns still produce excellent jams and the Périgord’s oldest cheese, the Trappe d’Échourgnac. Wonderful History

7 BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES AND TOWNS OF ART AND HISTORY

Beautiful villages full of character The Périgord is known for its many unspoilt, picturesque medieval towns and villages, such as Montferrand du Périgord, and St Geniès, where visitors with a love of old stone buildings will delight in strolling around the charming narrow streets. Some are officially classified among the most beautiful villages of France (“Plus Beaux Villages de France”). These include Saint Jean de Côle; Saint Léon sur Vézère; , a medieval town on the confluence of the Vézère and the Dordogne rivers; Beynac; La Roque-Gageac, which nestles at the foot of a cliff on the north bank of the Dordogne; Domme, a bastide village built by the French king; Belvès, a medieval town with seven bell towers; Monpazier, a bastide town built by the English; and the village of Saint-Amand-de-Coly, the most recent village to be classified. Bastide towns and villages The charming stone bastides or “new towns” were built in the Middle Ages as part of a plan to create urban areas in rural surroundings. Built on both sides of the Dordogne river, they played an important strategic role in the Hundred Years’ War between the French and English. Considered to be a perfect example of a bastide town, Monpazier is without doubt the jewel of the Périgord bastides. Founded in 1284 by Edward I of England, it has retained many of its original medieval features, including its ramparts, central square surrounded by arcades, and regular grid-style street plan. Another older bastide, this time built by the French, is the town of Villefranche du Périgord, situated on the main route south towards the Lot et Garonne département. An important cep mushroom market takes place in season in the town’s market hall. Whether they were built by the English, like Beaumont du Périgord (designed in the form of an H in memory of Henry III, the father of Edward I), and Lalinde, or by the French, like Domme, Molières and Eymet, these “new towns” are a charming and quintessential feature of the Périgord.

8 BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES AND TOWNS OF ART AND HISTORY

Towns of Art and History Périgueux, the capital of the Périgord, has a rich history dating back over 2,000 years. From the ancient Gallo-Roman town of Vesunna to the heart of the medieval and Renaissance district, the town has 39 buildings listed as Historic Monuments in one of the largest conservation areas in France. The ancient town of Périgueux is represented in a new museum, the Musée de Site Gallo-Romain Vesunna, designed by the architect Jean Nouvel and opened in 2003. This museum is home to the ruins of the Domus of Vesunna, a large Gallo-Roman villa adorned with exceptional wall paintings.

The medieval and Renaissance conservation area extends around the Cathédrale Saint-Front, one of the landmark religious buildings along UNESCO’s Way of St James World Heritage site.

Périgueux’s Wednesday and Saturday markets are lively and bustling, especially in winter, when the region’s award-winning foie gras markets are held here.

Sarlat is a medieval town which grew up around a large Benedictine abbey of Carolingian origin. The old buildings here, with their traditional façades and lauze stone roofs, have been carefully restored, thanks to a special law governing the restoration of conservation areas. Today, most of these buildings are listed Historic Monuments, including the emblematic Maison de la Boétie.

Amid these authentic medieval surroundings, the Saturday morning market brings life and colour to the town centre, with its fine selection of regional produce. The old southern-style parish church has been restored by the architect Jean Nouvel (who also designed the Gallo-Roman Vesunna museum) and now houses the covered market. Wonderful Places to Visit

9 WONDERFUL NATURE

The Périgord is a natural paradise of unspoilt countryside. Known for its gentle river valleys, the area is also home to a variety of impressive landscapes, including granite rock in the north, the Double and Landais forests, the hills of the White Périgord, the gorges of the Auvézère, and the limestone plateaux to the east of the département – a varied mosaic that provides endless opportunities for nature lovers. Rivers So many rivers cross the Périgord – the Dordogne is undoubtedly the most famous of these, but others, such as the Vézère, Isle, Auvézère, Dronne, Bandiat, Loue, Coly and Céou also have their own indelible charm. Having played a major role in transporting goods in the past, these waterways are now popular for leisure activities such as fishing, canoeing or boat trips on a traditional gabare. Water has always been used as a force of energy and a number of old buildings bear witness to this. Examples include paper mills (Moulin de la Rouzique), flour and walnut oil mills (Moulin de la Tour), paper manufacturers (the Papeteries de Vaux) and forges (Savignac Lédrier). Parc Naturel Régional Périgord-Limousin Extending across the départements of the Dordogne and Haute Vienne, this park is perfect for hiking and getting away from it all. The park covers 1,800km2 of protected countryside with a range of rare flora and fauna. Delightful gardens and towns full of flowers Other natural features in the region include 33 parks and gardens, 14 of which have been awarded the “jardin remarquable” label. These gardens are very different in tone and atmosphere, ranging from the Classical-style gardens of the Manoir d’Eyrignac, listed as a Historical Monument, to the formal gardens at the Château d’Hautefort, the romantic hanging gardens at Marqueyssac, or more contemporary gardens such as the Jardins de l’Imaginaire in Terrasson. The Périgord is also home to 13 towns and villages which have been recognised by the France in Bloom organisation with awards ranging from one to four flowers; Périgueux and Bergerac have won the National Flower Prize for several years running.

10 OUTDOOR PURSUITS

With our extraordinary natural landscapes, countless paths, trails and rivers, the Dordogne is the perfect destination for outdoor pursuits enthusiasts. Hiking The Périgord alone has close to 1,130km of long-distance footpaths, known as Grandes Randonnées (GR). These include part of the Way of St James heading to Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain, and the GR 36, which skirts the prehistoric sites of the Vézère valley. Not forgetting the additional 5,600km of paths and circular walking routes. Cycling and mountain biking The majority of our bike trails are suitable for mountain bikers, with centres located at , Brantôme, Cherveix-Cubas, Lalinde, Vitrac and Biron. Cycle-touring enthusiasts can take advantage of the Périgord’s 28 road-based routes, which together cover a distance in excess of 2,000km. The Dordogne’s “green” cycle routes include a specially adapted 17km stretch of former railway line between and Saint-Pardoux la Rivière in the Green Périgord. In the Black Périgord, it is possible to cycle from Sarlat to Grolejac/Cazoules, while in the White Périgord, the route from Trélissac to Marsac passes through Périgueux. Horse-riding There’s plenty of space in the Dordogne in which to enjoy a wide range of equestrian activities, including endurance trails and trekking. The “Le Périgord en Cheval” (Périgord on Horseback) brochure highlights 900km of marked trekking trails and overnight stops for riders covering one of our long-distance equestrian routes. Alternatively, why not embark on a tour of the Green Périgord by horse-drawn caravan? Aquatic adventures On a warm summer’s day in the Périgord, there’s nothing quite like an invigorating river descent by canoe. The combination of water and exploring the sights and landscapes at the foot of the cliffs of the Dordogne, Vézère, Dronne, Isle or Auvezère rivers is a pleasure without equal. From Easter to October, over 60 local companies offer a range of aquatic adventures along some of France’s longest waterways. Public leisure areas

The Conseil Général de la Dordogne (Dordogne Local Authority) has created seven Wonderful Nature dedicated leisure areas and one green route, all of which can be used for free by the general public. Open to local residents and visitors alike, these public facilities offer a range of leisure activities (swimming, hiking etc) and areas of interest to explore. The list includes two protected areas of natural beauty (the Campagne du Bugue forest and the Grand Etang de la Jemaye, a lake close to the Le Parcot farm), the Mallet reservoir, the Rouffiac outdoor pursuits centre, the Grand Étang de Saint-Estèphe (a man-made lake with facilities for disabled visitors), the Trémolat aquatic centre on the banks of the Dordogne, the forges at Savignac Lédrier, the gorges of the Auvézère, plus the green route between Thiviers and Saint-Pardoux la Rivière.

11 A PARADISE FOR THE SENSES

THE CULINARY TRADITIONS OF THE PÉRIGORD

The cuisine of the Périgord has its roots in traditional recipes based around wonderful local produce. Markets bear witness to the culinary abundance and high quality of products which are part and parcel of daily life here; this is particularly the case in winter when market stalls are overflowing with the region’s most famous products, in particular truffles and duck and goose specialities.

The black Périgord truffle and foie gras Reaching maturity after the first frosts of the winter, the black Périgord truffle (or Tuber Melanosporum) is the most aromatic of the world’s seventy species of truffle, with a special harvesting technique relaying on the use of an animal “truffler”, which nowadays is most frequently a dog. From January onwards, local production can be found on stalls in the markets at Sorges, Périgueux, , Sainte Alvère and Sarlat.

Foie gras, produced from both ducks and geese, is another of the Périgord’s star seasonal products, the quality of which is assured via the IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) label guaranteeing that foie gras is produced within the boundaries of the “Canard à foie gras du Sud-Ouest Périgord” appellation. Goose foie gras is currently in the process of obtaining IGP status. From November to February, small producers can be seen selling foie gras and other duck and goose products such as confits, gizzards and fat in our local award-winning duck and goose markets (marchés au gras).

Cep mushrooms, Périgord walnuts and chestnuts Cep mushrooms are most often used in fricassee dishes and stuffings, as well as in pommes de terre à la Sarladaise, a typical potato dish from Sarlat. Dependent upon the weather, mushrooms start to appear in our region in August and September. In Monpazier, or under the half-timbered covered market in Villefranche du Périgord, “locals” are the only people allowed to sell their harvest.

The onset of autumn also brings with it the annual walnut harvest, where production in the département is the second highest in France. This delicious nut can be enjoyed in myriad ways, either on its own or as the main ingredient in oils, liqueurs, jams, cakes or sweets. In 2001, four varieties were awarded AOC “Périgord walnut” status, namely the Corne, Marbot, Franquette and Granjean walnuts. A journey along the Walnut Route (Route de la Noix) is the perfect way of finding out more about this emblematic nut.

The chestnut tree is one of the most widely found species in the Périgord and is grown for its wood, its hoop-shaped branches and its fruit. The chestnut is an integral part of our culinary heritage.

12 A PARADISE FOR THE SENSES

Périgord strawberries Six varieties of strawberry are grown in our region, in particular on the slopes around the village of in the Périgord Blanc: - the Garriguette, a spring strawberry - the Elsanta, a Dutch variety - the Cigaline - the Seascape, Mara and Selva, varieties known as “double-cropping”

The second largest strawberry-producing département in France, the Périgord’s priority is to produce fruit of the highest quality. Strawberries planted in the open on specially selected strips of land, and with a guaranteed minimum sugar content, have been awarded the “Fraise du Périgord” IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) label. Bergerac wines The Bergerac vineyards are another important part of our prestigious heritage. The area encompasses a superb variety of wines with thirteen AOC appellations spread across 13,000 hectares of vineyards. Production is mainly red and white, with some rosé also produced. Appellations d’Origine Contrôlées: Reds: AOC Bergerac, Côtes de Bergerac, Pécharmant and Montravel Dry whites: AOC Bergerac and Montravel Semi-sweet whites: AOC Côtes de Bergerac, Côtes de Montravel, Haut Montravel, and Rosette Sweet whites: AOC Monbazillac Rosés: AOC Bergerac

In order to promote this extraordinary wine heritage, the Maison des Wonderful Gastronomy Vins de la Région de Bergerac has developed a special Wine Route (Route des Vins). Members of the “Destination Vignobles” association situated along the route will be delighted to share their knowledge and passion for wine with visitors.

13 A QUALITY STRATEGY FOR QUALITY PRODUCTS

In addition to previously mentioned AOC and IGP labels, a number of initiatives have been undertaken by local producers to further enhance the reputation of the region’s high-quality products:

- Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC): Limousin apples (grown in the Green Périgord). - Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP): Agen prunes (Purple Périgord). - Labels Rouges (red labels): Limousin and Blonde d’Aquitaine beef, “sous la mère” and Limousin veal, pork from grain-raised pigs (porc au grain du Sud-Ouest), Périgord free-range poultry (volailles fermières du Périgord). - The “Cabécou du Périgord” goat’s cheese in the shape of small round discs.

Year-round holiday ideas Food festivals - Truffle Festival in Sorges (January) - Walnut Festival in , near Hautefort (third Sunday in August) - Strawberry Festival in Vergt (August)

In the autumn - “Grain d’Automne” Festival at the heart of the Bergerac vineyards - “L’Automne Gourmand” in the Parc Naturel Régional Périgord-Limousin - Chestnut and Cep Mushroom Festival in Villefranche du Périgord (October) - Turkey Festival in (November)

14 LOCAL SKILLS AND TRADITIONS

Farmers’ markets Numerous markets, exclusively made up of local producers, are held in villages across the Dordogne.

Special markets These markets, held in Périgueux, Sarlat, Thiviers and Excideuil, provide an opportunity to source the very best local products in the Périgord and to participate in related events and activities. These markets are held between December and February and feature local guilds, performances by folklore groups and tastings.

L’Union des Confréries du Périgord The Guild of Périgord Brotherhoods comprises eleven confréries representing the high quality and diversity of local produce and bears witness to the knowledge and expertise of those who live in the Périgord.

Artists and Artisans The Dordogne, one of the cradles of mankind, whose rock walls provided the canvas for the earliest artists, remains a hugely popular and welcoming region for myriad artists and craftspeople. Sculptors, copper- and wrought-iron workers and cabinet-makers are among the sixty or so artists and artisans who have signed up to a quality charter and whose workshops can be found along a specially created Arts and Crafts Route.

Visits to local companies Around forty local businesses with varying skills and expertise are open to the public. Wonderful People

15 WONDERFUL PLACES TO STAY

Visitors to the Dordogne can choose from a wide range of high-quality accommodation options:

• 241 classified hotels • 7 tourist residences • 217 fully equipped campsites • 13 residential leisure parks • 1 children’s gîte • 14 holiday or stopover gîtes • 5,500 furnished rental properties, 2,526 of which are officially classified • 3,000 bed & breakfasts, 262 of which are officially classified • 15 classified holiday villages

In total, around 110,000 beds…

The Dordogne also offers unbeatable value for money in its numerous restaurants, as shown by the many distinctions awarded by food guides. The region also has twenty or so Michelin-starred establishments or highly recommended restaurants with a reputation for high-quality yet reasonably priced fare. Why not try some of the specialities of our local chefs,

Wonderful Places to Stay thirty of whom have come together as part of “Les Toques du Périgord” (Chef’s Hat) association.

16 A holiday in the Périgord? We'll book it for you! www.perigord-reservation.com Périgord Pourpre Périgord Blanc Périgord Vert Périgueux-Lyon: 5hr Périgueux-Toulouse: 3hr Périgueux-Paris: 4hr Périgueux-Bordeaux: 1hr15min FromBergerac • FromPérigueux,Périgueux-Parisreturn • Access fromParis(500km) Noir Périgord Scotland (Edinburgh) - Belgium (Brussels-Charleroi) - TheNetherlands(Amsterdam) - 9flightsfromEngland - Bordeaux-BergeracD936(100km) • Bordeaux-PérigueuxA89(120km) • Paris-PoitiersA10>Poitiers-AngoulêmeRN • Paris-LimogesA20>Limoges-PérigueuxRN21 • > Angoulême-PérigueuxD939 25, rueduPrésidentWILSON-B.P. 2063-24002PÉRIGUEUXCedex Comité DépartementalduTourisme delaDordogne Web :www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr E-mail :[email protected] Tel. +33(0)553355024 Fax +33(0)553095141

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