CHRISTY CANTERBURY, MW espite a “brief” 500-year interruption by the Muslim Turks, whose invasion and occupation lasted from 1393 to 1878, Bulgaria has several millennia of wine production under its belt. In the Unit- ed States, however, Bulgarian wines—along with those of other Balkan Folk troupe at Villa nations—are just emerging on the market. And unlike the cheap and Melnik in the cheerful exports of the 1980s, which consisted primarily of international Struma River varieties and gained little traction, the nouvelle vague now reaching our Valley. shores will showcase local grapes at higher, well-merited price tags. Photo courtesy of Villa Melnik Sommelier Journal 69 key grape varieties Danube • Mavrud: This ancient, traditional red grape is Romania undoubtedly one of Bulgaria’s stars. Grown primarily in the western Thracian Lowlands Northwest Oryahovo Black Sea around Assenovgrad, south of Plovdiv, it pro- Bulgaria Danubian Plain duces scarlet wines filled with blackberry and Pleven blueberry fruit. Higher-end examples tend to Varna Iskr be oak aged, gaining longevity from their firm Serbia Veliko Tarnovo =HG=J*KQJP=EJO tannins and fine acidity. =HG=J*KQJP=EJO Bulgaria • Rubin: Created in the 1940s, this cross of Sofia Rose Valley Nebbiolo and Syrah is grown mostly in south- Karnobat Black Sea ern and eastern Bulgaria. It produces inky, Nova Zagora Burgas Stara Zagora ageworthy wines that are high in extract and rich in fruit; flavors run dark, from blackcur- *QO=H= Thracian Lowlands rant to sloe and loganberry, with hints of Struma Plovdiv Sakar violets. River Valley Haskovo Maritsa Struma Turkey • Melnik 55 (aka Ranna Melnishka Loza or Early Melnik): Grown exclusively in the southwest, where it accounts for 57% of area plantings, Greece this red hybrid was born in the 1960s out of an effort to create earlier-ripening varieties. Deeply aromatic and intensely colored, it, too, is ageworthy, thanks largely to its tiny, thick- skinned berries. • Red Misket (aka Misket Cherven): This variety has been grown all over Bulgaria for centu- ries, producing perfumed, quality-oriented white wines as well as table grapes. The name alludes to its pink skin, not a relationship to the Muscat family. • Pamid: This was once Bulgaria’s most com- mon red grape; in fact, it was popular across the Balkans. Interest waned after the intro- duction of international varieties, however, Barrels and bottles at Angelus Estate in the Rose Valley. and today it is used primarily to make wines for immediate drinking. • Dimiat: The highly aromatic Dimiat is used in Granted, Bulgarian production has been white table wines as well as high-end bran- dies. Though cultivated across the Balkans, it Christy Canterbury, MW, fraught with challenges for the past 60 years is grown primarily around the Black Sea. is a Manhattan-based or so, mostly owing to the Communist govern- wine journalist, public ment’s launch of Vinprom at the end of World speaker, and judge. She War II. This giant cooperative controlled not only writes for Decanter, Wine Although red grapes represent more than production but domestic and international com- Enthusiast, Food Arts, half of Bulgaria’s vineyard plantings, white- Beverage Media, and merce. After the resignation of Todor Zhivkov, and sparkling-wine production has grown in several blogs and is the the head of state from 1954 to 1989, Bulgarians response to export demand. Today, the country consulting editor of Rock largely pulled themselves up by their own boot- and Vine. Recent public- exports 40% of its wine to markets led by Rus- straps, with very little help from foreign inves- speaking engagements sia, Romania, Poland, the United Kingdom, the tors. But when the European Union accepted the included appearances at Czech Republic, Belgium, and Germany. VinExpo, the European country’s entry in 2007, much-needed funds Wine Bloggers’ Digital for new—indeed, impressively state-of-the-art— Wine Communications wineries and vineyards began to flow in. Conference, and the Hong Kong International Wine Ironically, it was Vinprom that instigated the & Spirits Fair. Previously, implantation of French varieties in the 1960s. she was the global bever- Both times I have visited Bulgaria, the sheer Bulgaria sits on the eastern edge of the Bal- age director for Culinary quantity of international-grape production has kan Peninsula, where it meets the Black Sea. Its Concepts by Jean-Georges astounded me. With few exceptions, wines from Wine Law of 1978 was widely regarded as the Vongerichten and the national wine director for these varieties have been the most impressive, most progressive in the Communist bloc, but in the Smith & Wollensky but I hope and expect that indigenous varieties recent years the country has needed to bring its Restaurant Group. (see box) will make a solid comeback. appellation laws in line with EU requirements. Photos by Dusan Jelic 70 August 31, 2013 BULGARIA Castra Rubra owner Jair Agopian with Wines of Balkans social-media director Dusan Jelic. There are now two regional designations, or Pro- tected Geographical Indications, splitting the country roughly in half with the Balkan Moun- tains (Stara Planina) as a dividing line; the north- ern part is called the Danubian Plain, while the south is referred to as the Thracian Lowlands. The north has a more continental climate; the south—protected by the mountains from cold, northerly winds—is more Mediterranean. But there are also 51 official subzones, or Protected Designations of Origin. Overall, Bulgarian wine- makers generally refer to seven major wine areas, listed here from approximately north to south. Danubian Plain: This area of north-central Bul- garia stretches from the Romanian border (the Danube River) to the foothills of the Balkan Mountains. The climate is so extreme that win- ter frosts can kill vines, and the summers are hot and arid. Annual rainfall averages 24 inches. Northwest Bulgaria: This rather mountainous corner of the country, bordering the Danubian Castra Rubra cellar (top) and tasting room (above) in Sakar. Plain, also stretches to the Balkan Mountains. Wine-grape production was more developed in where the Balkan Mountains offer protection the Communist era but has waned in recent from northerly weather patterns while providing years; new estates such as Chateau Burgozone excellent slopeside ventilation. Although the val- and Borovitza Winery are bound to turn this ley is the birthplace of Red Misket, many other situation around. grapes thrive as well. Black Sea: The Black Sea region, which is further Sakar: This region on the country’s south-central subdivided into 32 farming districts, encom- border with Greece, named for the local moun- passes the entire eastern border of the country. tain range, is home to such recent start-ups as Some of the nation’s largest and oldest winer- Castra Rubra and Katarzyna Estate. With the ies—including the commercial Black Sea Gold Aegean Sea only 43 miles away, a mild climate and LVK-Vinprom Targovishte—are based here, and aerating breezes make for excellent growing working with about 30% of Bulgaria’s vineyard conditions. land. Because of the maritime influence, the cli- Thracian Lowlands: South of the Rose Valley in mate is milder than it is farther west. central Bulgaria, this is the country’s largest Rose Valley: The central Rose Valley is also wine region. The eastern portion, between the known, less picturesquely, as the sub-Balkan Rose Valley and Sakar, is a fertile area well known region. Famed vineyards, such as those owned for farming. Rustic and über-modern winemak- Photo by Dusan Jelic (left); todayphotos courtesy of Telish/Castra Rubra (right) by Rose Valley Winery, are located here, ing coexist here, with whites and bubblies mak- Sommelier Journal 71 Chateau Burgozone owners Svetla Marinova and Stefan Marinov. Bania Nova Zagora +359-2-421-4065 angelusestate.com Importer: Masciarelli Wine Company www.masciarelliwine.com This winery, completed just in time for the 2012 harvest, would make even a Bordeaux châ- teau owner envious. Located near Nova Zagora in the Rose Valley, with 262 acres planted exclu- sively to international varieties, it gained an elite reputation as soon as its first wines hit the mar- ket in 2009. Lozenetz St., 22 Chateau Burgozone winery (top) and vineyards (above) in Northwest Bulgaria. 1421 Sofia +359-2-963-1763 ing headway. Although Western Thrace, home of castrarubra.com the red Mavrud, once focused almost exclusively Importer: McM Imports on single-varietal wines, its blends are shining www.mcmimports.com brighter with each vintage. Established in Sakar in 2004, this brand is Struma River Valley: Tucked into the southwest the younger sibling of the Telish winery on the corner of Bulgaria, the Struma River Valley is its Danubian Plain. Its bottlings are stylish and de- warmest wine region, with a strong Mediterra- licious, thanks in part to consultant Michel Rol- nean influence. From the town of Melnik comes land. Entry-level labels include Dominant, Nim- the region’s signature grape, in numerous vari- bus, and Via Diagonalis; Butterfly’s Rock and ants including Melnik 55, Melnik 82, and Mel- Castra Rubra are the premium wines. nik Ruen. Oryahovskoshosestr. No. 1 3341 Leskovets, Oryahovo The following wineries show special poten- +359-973-58844 tial, but my list is by no means comprehensive; www.burgozone.bg many others make tasty wines worthy of enjoy- Importer: House of Burgundy ment and contemplation. www.thehouseofburgundy.com Photos by Ognyan Panov 72 August 31, 2013 BULGARIA Chateau Burgozone tends nearly 250 acres of newly planted vines along the Danube River, 425-590 feet above sea level. Within the vineyard lie the ruins of the Roman fortress for which the estate is named. Every time I see the label, I think of “Bourgogne,” and though the resem- blance is coincidental, these wines are indeed elegant in style.