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Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA vol. x • issue 7 www.stitchworld.net Technical Editors StitchWorld PAUL COLLYER (UK) Technology and Management in Sewn Product Industry CLAUDIA OLLENHAUER-RIES (GERMANY) Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI Technical Correspondent TUSSHAR KUMAR Design & Production TechBytes RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL 8 Product diversification PEEUSH JAUHARI SATYAPAL BISHT Photo Editor JIAMPreview JITENDER MEERWAL 10 JIAM 2012... Ready to Manager Advertising showcase technology meant for mature markets Kornit Breeze, displayed at JIAM, ensures printing RAGHAV SOOD - 08826000378 at the lowest price compared to any other digital Subscription Enquiry printing system RANI MAHENDRU - 011-47390000 CompanyReview 22 world Class Manufacturing Publisher & Managing Director Personified Exclusive RENU MOHINDRA - 09810058986 insights into Madura’s Suit Manufacturing Facility Head Office Contact Communications B-32, South Extension, Part-I, TechTalk New Delhi-110 049 30 Outsourcing – Phone: 011-47390000, 24602283 An Unexplored Alternative The 2261HP showcased at JIAM, is a reverse- arm lap felling unit, three needle chainstitch for Fax: 91-11-24604597 34 how to Choose a Lean Consultant? double lap seaming on jeans, casual trousers, and E-mail: [email protected] , workwear [email protected] 38 Performance Measurement Tools – 3 : Cutting and Web associate: www.stitchworld.net Production Planning Editorial Enquiry E-mail: [email protected] , [email protected] NewsTrack Phone: 41646999, 24602283 44 india: Prateek Apparels Printing targets Rs. 100 crore for the next financial year Ask Advertising Aids Pvt. Ltd. 88, DSIDC, Okhla Indl. Area, Phase-I, 46 india: Sprayway introduces Dry Silicone Spray for New Delhi-110 020 Phone : 26816824 machine’s needle lubrication A view of the part preparation assembly in progress, at Madura's suit manufacturing facility All Rights Reserved © 2009 by Contact Communications

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EDITORIAL

hy the international single brand retailers, especially the 'fashion brands', would Whave an objection to the Government stipulation of 30% mandatory sourcing from local SMEs in the case of 100% foreign investment, is beyond me… when in fact many of these retailers are already sourcing a chunk of their products from Indian manufacturers. Take the case of Gap, which is doing around US $ 1 billion buying from India, which would be between 20 to 25% of its total sourcing… why would then it be difficult for them to increase the buying and achieve the target? Even other single brand retailers like Zara, H&M, M&S, Esprit and many others are actively sourcing from India in huge quantities. Of course, it would help retailers if their buying for both their international operations and Indian operations is clubbed together to comply with the 30% mandatory local sourcing norm as set by the Government. This will have some distinct advantages for the country besides easing the pressure on the retailers… the most obvious will mean more FDI in the country, which will help in achieving the target of 25% share of manufacturing in the GDP by the year 2022 and simultaneously generate better employment opportunities since the garment industry is labour intensive, in addition it will also mean greater opportunity for the exporters already working with the brands. Since these retailers would be complying with the international norms of quality and compliances, both social and environmental, it would help the local industry to mature from being an unorganized setup to an organized industry. It will also help them scale up their operations, build operational efficiencies and improve capital and human productivity. Madura is a true benchmark company and strives for excellence in all its endeavours… A visit to the suit manufacturing unit of the company was an eye opener for the StitchWorld team. In this issue we highlight its manufacturing and management practices that set it apart. This monthly also previews the technology that will be on display at the upcoming JIAM fair. The focus is on automated machines to cater to the mature market where labour saving is a priority, not that these technologies are not popular in developing economies. With most consultants in the market claiming to be Lean experts… choosing the right consultant is almost as critical as implementing Lean for success. The article “How to Choose a Lean Consultant?” has some useful tips from Lean professionals in the field.

Deepak Mohindra Editor-in-Chief

Read and comment on my blog at http://stitchworldmagazine.blogspot.com

SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 7 CMYK

TECHBYTES

Why are Indian manufacturers/exporters not diversifying into different product categories like back packs, luggage, sports equipment, soft toys and many others, which may be complementary to their manufacturing abilities? Do we lack the capability to work on a new product or is it the lack of will to Q venture into a new category that stops such diversification?

Industry responds...

The garment export business is in a real tight situation Very often, manufacturers of these product categories are because of the increased labour cost, the cost of money and driven in partnership or support of brands or retailing. You also the bottlenecks of the poor infrastructure impacting the would not diversify into the product category and then look for overall cost of the product. To diversify into a new product the customer. is like setting up of a new factory, which requires new set of Given the chance, I would like to get into a product which skilled manpower and proper infrastructure. The unavailability requires a greater degree of technical expertise, as well as of the same makes the whole idea of diversifying a very some degree of automation. Perhaps luggage/backpacks risky affair. Also, now labour is moving out from the garment would be worth examining from the point of view of business and looking into other opportunities, adding to the diversifying. problem. STEPHEN VERGHESE The Government is least supportive in terms of providing the Managing Director, Nuvocraft Apparels India Pvt. Ltd., required infrastructure like roads, transportation, electricity, Bangalore maintaining highways and ports, among others. No proper training institutes are present to upgrade or train the unskilled workers and whatever we have is inadequate. Diversifying for these stated products are not so easy because: GAUTAM KAUSHIK  Need of Heavy duty machines: Currently most of garment President, Allure India, New Delhi exporters are using light to medium duty machines. Work- aids/attachments and specialized machines are totally different from existing/traditional garment manufacturing I do not think that Indian manufacturers/exporters lack the equipments. capability of diversifying into various categories. It depends on:  Lack of technical knowhow: Exporters have to create a  Product demand vs. available capacity, totally different team for these products. From sourcing  Expertise required, of raw material to shipping is going to be different and this will attract most of their personal valuable time in  Investment required, experimenting only.  Are there economies of scale, rather than compete with the  Lack of skilled labour availability: Most of the workers “cottage industry”. manufacturing bags and luggage work in small clusters and If the demand is there, then all of the other issues can be they are hired on piece-rate basis. addressed. Each of these products require varying degrees  Buyers are not the same: Garment exporters have to start of expertise, and entry into any of these product categories from scratch as far as marketing is concerned, buyers have requires a planned strategy for entry, rather than dabble in different divisions for these products. them for the sake of filling capacity or diversifying. Some of the products require some specialized equipments, and  Few garment manufacturers have already added home unless you are seriously looking at manufacturing it, you may furnishing and made-ups in their product range as these not get economies of scale or quality required for the more products attract less effort as main material, i.e. FABRIC is premium products. There is also the question of capability in same as garment. all aspects of the supply chain, from sourcing of raw material to I would like to diversify into home furnishings because there understanding the customer requirements. won’t be any investment in machinery hence reducing the

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financial cost for the project. Also, skilled labour and technical staff is available readily. SIDHANT DHINGRA Director, Orient Clothing, Gurgaon

I think, as an exporter I would like to diversify into new products to offer more to my customers. But just the will is not enough to do so. One requires labour and machinery to make this happen and it's not just like that any worker can do so. Availability of highly specialized workers and machineries is still a big question to deal with. Even if the right investment is made, the number of orders are decreasing hence increasing the risk of such a huge investment. KESHAVANAND B R Seven Hills International, Bangalore

I don’t think that diversification of products is a good idea as it demands huge capital investment hence involving greater risk. It is not a strategy that you can imply immediately and come up with new products. Diversification means building up a setup from the scratch, hence making it a long and tedious journey to introduce a new product in the market. To manufacture any product other than garment, skilled labour requirement tops the list. All other limitations still exist in the industry making it very difficult to even think of changing or diversifying into new products, however in the future if there is any need for diversification, I would go for a product related to garment only and not bags or any other product. AKSHAY AGGARWAL MD, Amod Exports, Mumbai

TechBytes StitchWorld October 2012 Question Do you think outsourcing some of the core in-house operations like pattern making to organizations specializing in the same, having latest technology with better skilled manpower, can actually improve the timelines and the quality of the product, leading to cost savings? What all aspects of apparel manufacturing can actually be outsourced, and why? What other factors should one keep in mind and work on before outsourcing any service?

Write your comments to us by 20th September 2012 at: [email protected] or post your views online through our website: www.stitchworld.net/techbytes

SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 9 CMYK

JIAM Preview

Japan is a key technology supplier to the sewing product industry. Over the years numerous key innovations and patents can be attributed to this industry, which brings yet another Japan International Apparel Machinery (JIAM) trade show. The fair is slated to showcase well known Japanese pioneers like , Brother, Yamato, Kansai Special, along with other global technology providers in sewing and other ancillary products such as motors to automatic changers to anything and everything which can be associated with quality and innovation to the industry under the theme ‘Creative Linkage – Innovative Technology for a Prosperous and Comfortable Lifestyle’.

JIAM 2012... Ready to showcase technology meant for mature markets

nder the theme Another area of concentration consideration. Mauser Spezial many technology suppliers will ‘Creative Linkage’, is sustainability... Green introduced the environmental also be inviting their customers Uthe show intends to technology is the focus label “Envio-Line” that to the show, bearing all the present ideas from various of many technology guarantee customers an expenses and few feelers other sectors to the apparel manufacturers today – JUKI, environmentally friendly available with StitchWorld and industry, by Brother, Pegasus, Siliconi, production process energy confirms the same... A Chinese fusion of different products, Duerkopp Adler, Zoje, Typical, saving while doing their company has confirmed that applications and materials. Jack, Gerber and Lectra are part to protect our nature it would be inviting about 100 This concept also emphasizes only some of the companies and future. In the field of of its good customers to see its on collaborations between with concentration on “Drive Technology”, has latest product innovations. companies working within the sustainable options, which introduced a new generation The fair is indeed relevant in apparel and textile industry they also showcased at major of sewing drives that stand out the wake of the slowdown in but in varied segments. This technology fairs held in 2011. due to their low use of energy the EU and US, resulting in a would not only present apparel All these companies claim and are manufactured without very difficult six months for and textile manufacturers' to make their products not lead, cadmium, mercury, etc. many technology providers options for revitalising in only under strict sustainable making them compliant with with three bigwigs from the slow market, but also by environment, but also less RoHS requirements and are Japan namely, Juki, Brother aligning with various other hazardous to the ecology therefore environmentally and Pegasus showing revenue companies to become a and consuming less energy friendly. In washing losses from 20% to 40% due complete solution provider. while improving performance equipment, saving on water to stagnant demand in the It is interesting to note that when compared to their consumption and chemicals Indian, Chinese and European all of the sewing technology older versions. used is also a focus area. markets. Even the forex played participants will be its part in the losses. But showcasing technology, which Juki has built the philosophy Bringing technology near to hope is what is keeping every is high-end, but focussed on of the company around the the apparel and other soft company, whether Japanese, saving manpower. Automated concept of sustainability goods manufacturers, the Italian or German moving machines for operations like aptly termed as ‘Eco-Mind show is slated to be a big ahead prodding them to relook holing and button declaration’. The Group success attracting designers, at their target customers. attachment are among the started the ‘eco-products bespoke manufacturers, The focus is now shifting to popular machines that will authorization system’ meant luggage industry, laundries, car small quantity niche players be showcased by many of the to deliver new products which seat cover manufacturers and in mature markets, which exhibitors. As markets mature, exceed the old products in other niche players attached require latest technology to labour saving machines is performance, marketability, to the sewn product industry. upgrade and meet challenges becoming a priority. and environmental Past experience shows that of smaller runs.

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JIAM Preview

Kornit Digital to focus on ‘Innovative technology for a prosperous and comfortable lifestyle’

articipating in the JIAM in bridge technology, it helps for printing on any textile Ptune with its theme Kornit economize ink consumption. substrate, be it fabric for will showcase its industrial An ideal printing system upholstery, curtains or and commercial printing for e-commerce, limited dress materials. solutions for the apparel edition niche designs, The new Kornit Allegro is and textile industry.“Visitors corporate T-shirts and other just 7 metre long digital would actually discover new promotional wear, Breeze printing line comprising ideas to further increase is built with an integrated of a fabric feeding unit, the design quotient of pre-treatment system printer with Spectra their products, along with incorporating industrial Polaris Industrial print solutions for doing the same,” grade print heads, making heads, in-line drying & Sandeep Mehta says Sandeep Mehta, Sales & Sales & Marketing Manager – the machine perfect for curing and a winding Marketing Manager – India, India, Kornit Digital commercial use. It also unit post-curing.“You can Kornit Digital. The company  enables printing at the lowest directly print one roll of The Indian digital would be present with its cost compared to any other cotton followed by blended top line of direct-to-garment printing market is likely digital printer. fabric, followed by polyester printers, namely, Avalanche- to exceed US $ 180 Paradigm is a Digital Printing and so on. It means the DC-Pro, Breeze and Paradigm, million and moreover Station, which can be printer can cater to different along with Allegro direct-to- import data of the interfaced to an automatic market verticals with textile digital printer. current fiscal shows screen printing carousel. This such as one roll can be The Avalanche-DC-Pro 6-8 machines are being solution is about combining curtains, next one can is meant for industrial be saree roll followed by installed per month all the best of both the worlds production and has capability – analog screen printing and knitwear fabric with Lycra,” over India. Availability of ‘Digital Discharge digital printing. avers Sandeep.Truly, Allegro as well as demand now Printing’ in combination With this combination, it is not only redefines Pigment with white ink. This enables is for mid and high possible to print a file which Printing on , but also discharge printing with production machines, can have any number of creates symphony of colours varying amount of white indicating the fact that colours at high resolution like no other textile digital ink providing flexibility to and also have screen effects printing system can. digital textile industry achieve the desired ‘feel’ and using glitter inks and/or HD Talking about the digital is scaling up the ‘colour definition’. As this inks,or doing gumming for printing scene in India, maturity curve. model is equipped with dual foiling or caviar beads. With Sandeep opines that the a unique and high-end print Indian digital printing market head configuration, is likely to exceed US $ 180 the productivity million and moreover import is high, making data of the current fiscal this the most shows 6-8 machines are viable solution being installed per month for printing allover India. Availability as high fashion well as demand now is for garments mid and high production at lowest machines, indicating the printing cost. fact that digital textile and Due to Kornit’s path garment printing industry breaking technology, is scaling up the maturity digital printing Direct- curve. “Value addition with On-Textiles without Digital Printing will remain pre-coating and subsequent a key factor for the industry Kornit Breeze ensures printing at the drying can be achieved, to stay competitive,” lowest price compared to any other digital printing system using the same set of inks concludes Sandeep.

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JIAM Preview

with ight at the forefront of in cutting time and 50% unison feed for securing Rdelivering products aimed reduction in compressed PFAFF and assembly seams on at improving the productivity air consumption. “The to present automotive interiors. The and reducing the cycle time, machine’s creative take-up Powerline machine is equipped with a the Chinese major CHNKI lever makes the maintenance series of new reliable trimmer Precision Sewing Machine more convenient, reducing for short thread ends (5 mm) would be present at the the machine downtime by automates for and a device for a neat JIAM show with its wide a significant amount,” adds car seats and start which avoids birds’ range of automated sewing Zhang Zhangsheng. The interiors nests on the bottom side machines, with special focus direct-drive of the fabric. Also under on buttonholing machines. CBH-1780 provides 10% Speaking to StitchWorld, higher sewing efficiency and Zhang Zhangsheng, General reduced maintenance cost, Manager, CHNKI said, “We due to absence of ‘rotational work hard to design the belt’ mechanism. machine which can offer With a 20,000 sq. metres higher productivity with fewer manufacturing facility in workers. For example, with China, CHNKI is manufacturing CBH-1790-Y22-II, one worker almost 80% of its spare parts can operate two machines in-house, exporting to more together and in one operation than 20 countries. Talking three are created about the Indian garment on each machine.” The other manufacturing sector, Zhang technologies that CHNKI Zhangsheng said, “With would proudly present at the the development of Indian fair are the MEB-1580 eyelet economy, the computer

The single needle flatbed Powerline 2545 is a specialty sewing machine, CBH- controlled machines will machine with unison feed for securing and assembly seams on 1780 direct-drive buttonhole be the big trend in the near automotive interiors

faff Industrial has seen the Powerline range, the present with cutting edge Pmany ups and downs Powerline 2596 double CHNKI in its evolution, but one needle postbed unison automates for button holing factor which has actually feed machine is available kept the company on the for top stitching on car forefront of sewn product seats and other interiors, technology is its quest for will be present alongside delivering highly automated other innovations from the machines for sewing company. The machine is 3-dimensional structured equipped with a pneumatic- clothing. The German controlled seam centre guide pioneer, manufacturing for exact decorative seams sewing machines and related in the automotive and home technologies, Pfaff Industrial upholstery section. together with Pfaff Singapore The new generation Pfaff and its Japanese sales partner 3590 Freely programmable Libera, will showcase a large-field computer With the CBH-1790-Y22-II one worker can operate two machines together range of machines under its stitchers enable efficient and in one operation three buttonholes are created on each machine Powerline series, along with top-stitch and decorative the Pfaff 3590 large-area stitching operations. machine and CBH-1790 future in the garment industry. stitcher and Pfaff 8301 & With a large sewing area straight buttonhole machine. To stay competitive, we think seal welding machine, at the of 500 X 300 mm, the The MEB-1580 eyelet the technology providers JIAM show. machine is equipped with buttonholer is the world’s should devote more efforts Under the Powerline range, high-end engineering first machine with a vertical and funds to keep improving the single needle flatbed for precise control and scissor-cutting mechanism, the technology of each Powerline 2545 is a specialty operational reliability. which enables 40% reduction product in different aspects.”

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JIAM Preview

ptimizing cutting room the development of its new role the Indian garment industry Ooperations and other range of Vector cutters have needs to review its production related aspects of product given birth to a complete, Lectra methods. “Technology development is the first step in integrated and unique offer, to introduce adaptation is currently very low, the process paradigm of Lean which enables our customers the futuristic so this issue must be addressed manufacturing, and Lectra to benefit from better control first and foremost. Furthermore, has more than three decades and optimization of their VectorFashion manufacturers need to adapt of experience in providing production, which in turn iX automated technology-sharing practices; cutting room optimization increases their competitiveness cutting system green initiatives and Lean manufacturing, incorporating them into their processes. Once this is implemented, the change in terms of productivity may reach anywhere in the range of 20-50% or in some cases even 100% compared with today’s operations. A 5-8% improvement in cost-efficiency could be achieved based on current standards. If these things happen, the industry will become much stronger, even at today’s price points,” he concludes. 'Under covers'... VectorFashion iX that will be launched at the show solutions. Working with scores and profitability,” adds Harari. of companies around the The innovation is equipped world, Lectra has established its with a user-friendly touch name not only among fashion screen, video assisted spread and apparel but also among control and several other manufacturers of automotive trouble shooting devices for upholstery and wind mills. preventive maintenance. The French pioneer would be Very positive of India’s launching VectorFashion iX at growth potential Harari the JIAM show, which equipped reasons, “India has a strong with Dynamic Vacuum Control domestic market and is the enables high pressure fabric largest producer of cotton holding and up to 15% worldwide; when raw material reduction in energy usage. “The is produced domestically, this VectorFashion iX is well suited is an important competitive to the target markets of the advantage versus other JIAM show due to its flexibility countries. So, by leveraging and efficient management of both raw material availability smaller quantities, enabling and the domestic market Just-In-Time inventory systems,” available for consumption, the says Daniel Harari, CEO, Lectra. Indian garment industry will The new Vector enables continue to grow.” He adds manufacturers to save that with the ability to do energy, reduce the number of small runs, India is very well workers per machine, and also positioned to play a key role in reduce errors in production, the garment market globally, thereby saving money and more so after the signing of positively impacting clothing the Free Trade Agreement manufacturers’ bottom with Europe. line.“The exceptional means Harari, however, feels that to be implemented by Lectra in prepared to take on a bigger

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JIAM Preview

140342-01 high speed direct- is the core feature of this drive machine buttonhole model. But Duerkopp Adler not just and the DA 650-16 sleeve beside the unrivalled quality about apparels, focus on global setting sewing machine. the new version promises sewn product industry However, the highlight would apparel manufacturers a be the 580-341 Premium good payback, due to many Automatic chainstitch eyelet additional features,” avers ny show where innovation buttonholer with Multiflex Bernd Bräuer, Heading and quality is of utmost cutting system. the company’s global A sales division. importance cannot be With the automatic eyelet  We see a split complete with Duerkopp buttonholer, 580-341 Duerkopp Adler has always in the market. Adler’s presence… JIAM is buttonholes of different been in-tune with the One will look for no different. The German shapes and lengths with or changing demands of the pioneer’s innovations without thread as well sewn product industry, cheaper labour are most sought-after for as round eyelets can be sewn and is currently focusing destinations manufacturing suits, denim without time-consuming on making its sewing to compensate jeans, trousers, car seats, change of cutting blocks or automates energy-efficient. “What could be saved in the backlog in airbags and other products knives. Combined with the requiring heavy-duty but trimmer for needle thread, terms of energy has already productivity quality sewing. The company looper thread and lower been saved in case of DC but others will would be present at the gimp thread cut short, it is motors and people should look towards direct- JIAM show – promising its possible to produce different stay in India drive options for greater support to all sewn product buttonholes without any and work hard reduction in the energy manufacturers seeking follow-up work on one single consumption,” says Bräuer. to improve their quality and productivity. The work station. The buttonholes Another area where energy company’s showcase would and round eyelets productivity. For can be saved is by reducing include the DA 580-141-01 programmed by the operator these customers, the consumption of Premium CNC-Buttonhole are sewn sequentially. compressed air in the facility Duerkopp Adler Automat, DA 550-867 sewing The corresponding cut and Duerkopp Adler is will offer automatic length is allocated fully station for documented working on the replacement  automatically. This ensures machines. airbag tearing seams, M-Type of compressed air for often maximum efficiency, even Bernd Bräuer H867-290362-70 for versatile needed functions. “More Global Sales Division for small lot sizes. “As the twin-needle operations savings than investment cost Duerkopp Adler name expresses “flexibility” in heaviest materials, 281- for the first two years is the target of Duerkopp Adler,” asserts Bräuer. Bräuer advices the industry to focus on reducing their manufacturing costs, for With the automatic eyelet buttonholer, 580-341 which total control over buttonholes of different shapes the direct labour cost and and lengths with or without gimp thread as well as round productivity is a must.“We eyelets can be sewn without see a split in the market. One time-consuming change of cutting blocks or knives will look for cheaper labour destinations to compensate the backlog in productivity but others will stay in India and work hard to improve their productivity. For these customers, Duerkopp Adler will offer automatic machines, similar to what was done when the same tendency took place in Northern Europe,” concludes Bräuer.

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JIAM Preview

ibemac has always been at The 2261HP is a reverse-arm out seams, plus top stitch Vthe forefront of delivering lap felling unit, three needle operations. “A special belt automated sewing solutions Vibemac to chainstitch for double lap puller enables fast feeding to the apparel industry for showcase pocket seaming on jeans, casual and perfect matching manufacturing denims jeans design unit and trousers, and workwear. between the sewn parts. After and trousers. The Italian feed-off-the-arm The machine is particularly the sewing, the puller device pioneer with more than 30 machines suitable to sew back yoke, is like a guide for the chain years of experience in servicing back rise, inseams and coming out. It will control the global apparel industry and guide the chain into the would be present at the JIAM chain cutter device,” explains show, making its presence Alessandro. The innovation felt at the world stage for due to its remarkable high- technology. “We would be speed of 5200 RPM can present with some of our most sew up to five inseams in a sought-after innovations like minute. The 2262HP is another the 1010V4 DCS pocket design variant of the machine, and unit, the 2262HP feed-off- is equipped with a smart the-arm reverse lap felling puller system and chain unit and the 2261HP feed- cutter, which enable faster off-the-arm sewing machine,” production at the speed of said Alessandro Signorini, 3700 RPM. Both the machines Sales Manager, Vibemac. The although made for sewing company’s products would heavy material can easily be be showcased at the booths changed for doing lighter of Mitsubishi Electric, Yamato fabrics, with the help of the The 2261HP is a reverse-arm lap felling unit, three needle chainstitch for and Seiko. double lap seaming on jeans, casual trousers, and workwear optional light fabric kit.

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JIAM Preview

till 2007 the company was China visit India, Pakistan and manufacturing 120 cutters, Bangladesh very frequently. Yin Science & Technology but now it is manufacturing “However, India is serviced Riding high in India with a long-term plan around 800 cutters every year. by Yin, Japan because the Focus on car upholstery, home furnishings The company sold around expectation of the industry is 650 cutters all over the world high on quality and they are and industries using non-woven textiles last year.“Only recently the willing to pay for that price, such as windmill company installed a cutter but they want assurance that in Surat and will shortly be their ROI is going to come out on time,” says Yimin Ni. e-strategizing its installing a hanger system business plans too with another cutter. We With manufacturing units Respecially for the have started getting good in Japan, China, Germany Indian market, Yin Science response from the industry,” and R&D centres in Japan & Technology, providing says Yimin Ni. and Romania, Yimin points complete cutting room On being questioned why out that the company is a solutions and overhead India now when so many solution provider, as they hanger systems other technology suppliers have the ability to offer for optimizing already have an established customized solutions for production, and presence in India,Yimin was specific requirements. He represented by very spontaneous with his further emphasized on Yimin Ni, Manager reaction, “Now is the time continuously improving – South Asia the industry needs highly their products as per explains, “Though automated systems to reduce the suggestions and we have been in manpower involvement and requirements of the India for about at the same time increase customer, due to which their five years, it is quality and productivity.” machines are now 20 per cent faster than the ones only now that we Yin would be shortly opening have put together offered by them previously. its own offices in north and Giving an example, he the right team south of India to improve including our explained how the company the service levels, “Our supported a home textiles India partner.” initial clients in India are He adds, “India is supplier in the Gurgaon- very important to us as they region of India to develop among the top would be the stepping stone priority apparel the largest cutting area on for the second generation single machine. “Since the manufacturing of clients,” adds Yimin. He manufacturer needed a nation for Yin.” was also very emphatic that larger cutting area for larger The realization for unlike other service providers, panels, our Chairman, a Yin came when maintenance and supply passionate engineer, with the the company of spares are not a profit help of our team of experts, “We will show some saw drop in business at centre for the company – the came up with a solution to future concepts of home where the apparel companies are dependent develop a 3.5 m X 3 m cutting cutting in the form of manufacturing companies had on the number of machines area which would not only a CNC cutting machine started closing or downsizing it sells. "In the past four years increase the cutting speed at the JIAM fair. This due to increasing labour and we have accumulated spare but also be suitable for the concept will overturn other input costs. parts comprising of 80 per kind of fabrics they are the traditional and Initially, 80 per cent of the cent of the machines, and handling,” says a proud Yimin. even modern cutting the rest 20 per cent are the company’s revenue was Focussing on catering to a techniques, using ones which don’t break down derived from sales made in wide array of industries the most advanced easily, like the motors, and the Chinese market, but now Yimin Ni agreed to the fact technologies. A 3D body the domestic market share cutting head, and few gears that a lot of improvements measurement system has reduced to 50 per cent, etc. while spares like screws have to be made in our and an automatic while the balance is from and nuts are standard and machines regarding the spreading machine will international sales. can be procured from the cutting height, blade strength, also be showcased.” The acceptance of its product local market,” said Yimin Ni. cutting area and the cutting Yimin Ni Manager – South Asia, internationally can also be To ensure the best technical software, to encompass Yin Science & Technology gauged from the fact that support, the trained staff from everyones requirement.

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JIAM Preview

stitching. The Italian pioneer technology. It performs a including the electronically is also the inventor of the neatly sewn button that controlled thread tension, AMF automatic template stitching stands away from the jacket neck height, stitch depth, system, which is called the front with a tightly wrapped different sewing speeds for Reece Autojig. Being among the and no unsightly thread individual sewing phases, etc. geared with top players in the apparel showing on the underside The machine can handle wide automates for industry present at JIAM, of the garment. All sewing range of ranging from button sewing AMF Reece will be presenting parameters are simply set shank buttons to 2, 3, 4-hole its latest version of the on the touch screen display sew-through buttons. and button holing electronic button stitching and wrapping machine MF Reece is known world together with the high Aover as a manufacturer speed electronic chainstitch of specialty sewing machines imitation sleeve buttonhole for the apparel industry. Some machine. of the most sought-after The electronically controlled products of the company are button sewing and wrapping a variety of eyelet buttonhole machine, EBS Mark II has machines, special application been developed hand-in- high-speed electronic hand with high-end Italian chainstitch machines, suit manufacturers. This lockstitch pocket welting unique machine duplicates machines as well as machines the quality of hand sewn using the hand stitch buttons by using patented The high speed electronic chainstitch imitation sleeve buttonhole machine S-4000 ISBH Indexer suitable for jacket sleeves, would technology for decorative AMF Reece floating needle also be showcased at the fair

SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 17 CMYK

JIAM Preview

ith the mantra ‘Right for Loiva, Anshuman Dash, speed of 3000 SPM, this Wsolutions at the right India representative of sewing machine delivers price’ Loiva has captured Loiva says, “We still have to high productivity. Using significant share in the highly explore 70% of the market, fully programmable LCD competitive global market. which is good as people operation panel it is possible The Korean pioneer would are now actually going to select the button type be present at Yamato’s booth towards automation for (Shank/Flat), button height at the JIAM show, with its productivity improvement and wrapping & knotting popular innovations – Button and operational flexibility.” frequency. Despite its wrapping and knotting many advanced features, Machine ST-10 and the Digital The button wrapping the machine is very easy Button Feeder ST-12, along machine ST-10 used for to operate, because the with Pneumatic edge guide knotting and wrapping of dynamic design of the FD-45 fixed on a Yamato buttons after providing machine allows a single workstation for side seam. looseness in a button operator to handle two Positive about the market stitch machine, provides a machines at a time. Operator strengthened stem of button has to just feed the button and in the process helps into the slot and push the button-hole fit easily start button and on the into the button placket. completion of the cycle time, Loiva geared with suitable Also, after fixing the button machine stops automatically automation for greater operational there is no expending and the thread gets trimmed. efficiency and flexibility view of the button hole. The patented ST-12 button With the maximum sewing feeder attachment would prove to be another crowd puller at the fair. The innovation has a robotic mechanism device used to feed the buttons to The patented the button clamp of the ST-12 button feeder attachment button sewing machine. No would prove to operator is needed to align be another crowd puller at the fair the holes of the button. With its increased feeding speed, the sewing machine head speed can be used up to its maximum, which results in higher productivity. It can be easily installed to any brand of lockstitch button sewing machine. Anshuman pressed on the fact that people should first understand the requirement of any automation or system and then invest for total utilization. “Cheaper production cost and greater flexibility depend on a lot of Cheaper production cost and greater flexibility aspects subjective to every depend on a lot of aspects subjective to every company, and if one is not able to define them,neither company, and if one is not able to define them, automation nor a system can neither automation nor a system can ever work. ever work,” he concludes. Anshuman Dash India representative of Loiva

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JIAM Preview

etal or needle detectors world-class needle detectors screens to have a look at any Mmay seem to be just and fusing machines, with accessory or individual part another inspection machine Hashima introduction of its range of in detail. “For example a basic in an apparel manufacturing present with X-ray inspection machines, needle detector won’t be able facility, but can actually cost X-ray inspection has taken the technology to inspect a bra with a ferrous the manufacturer the entire machines level to new heights by under-bust wire, which would production order, if they fail removing the use of coils and only be possible with the X-ray to perform their job optimally. magnets for the purpose of machines,” adds Nasiruddin. The present technology ferrous accessories and effects metal detection. Speaking Equipped with simple foreign level of needle detectors has of power fluctuations, external to StitchWorld regarding the object auto detection system, already resolved the issues temperature and vibrations new developments, Khaja foreign objects are surrounded on performance. The Japanese of detecting ferrous needles Nasiruddin, Country Manager with red lines for ease of pioneer Hashima known for its in presence of various non- – India, Hashima said, “This the viewer. Along with the technology would have a overlapped image processing wider reach as it would not technology, parts within fabric only cater to the needs of layers can be easily recognized, apparel manufacturers but also like bra’s under-bust wire. With to that of footwear and bag high-precision linear X-ray manufacturers.” sensor, foreign objects up to The HNX-500/600 range of 300 µm can be captured. For X-ray inspection machines is a longer operating life, the equipped with dual screen machine has been equipped displaying two different images with Auto-Aging and Auto- at a time – coloured and black Cooling functions, and even & white. Individual screens the X-ray dosage during each The HNX-500/600 range of X-ray inspection machines can also be split into 4 smaller inspection is controlled.

SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 19 CMYK

JIAM Preview

computerization of sewing The HX6800-AK series machine speed of 8000 RPM. machines to tackle the rising machines are equipped with The overlock machine has Hikari manufacturing costs. The various automated functions cloth edge sensor which to focus on company would be present at like thread trimmer, thread can efficiently control the futuristic the JIAM event, showcasing suction, lifter fabric wastage, improving its range of direct-drive and sensors, increasing the the working efficiency and and energy- lockstitchers and overlock working efficiency by 30%. overall sewing quality of efficient sewing machines. The machines can sew at the the products. sewing The H8800C and H9180 automates series of direct-drive machines have a control box fitted in the machine body, ong gone are the enabling total control while Ldays when ‘Made in sewing. Both the machines China’ sewing machines are equipped with an were considered low on additional LED light at the technology. Hikari Precise needle point; also the H9180 Machinery Science & has an electronic thread Technology is a leading wiper. The direct-drive servo computerized sewing motors not only enable 60% machines and related to 70% energy conservation equipment manufacturers, but also greatly reduce which is well appreciated energy loss due to belt by the industry for its transmission with no belt The HX6800-AK series overlock machines are equipped with various focus on automation and abrasion pollution. automated functions, increasing the working efficiency by 30%

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SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 21 CMYK

Company Review

The suit manufacturing facility of Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd. was started way back in 2001, by the name of Crafted Clothing with an initial capacity of 400 suits per day, which was later increased as per the rise in demand to 2500 suits and 4000 trousers per day. The facility manufactures suits for all of Madura’s brands, namely, Louis Philippe, Van Heusen, Allen Solly and Peter England, both for the men and women segment. The manufacturing facility is a culmination of visits to various suit manufacturers around the world by the team before establishing the factory. Team StitchWorld recently visited the facility, specializing in Made to Measure (MTM) segment, to better understand the many criticalities of suit manufacturing and how Madura has maintained the title of ‘World Class Manufacturing’ since its inception.

World Class Manufacturing Personified Exclusive insights into Madura’s Suit Manufacturing Facility

ith quality and has 3 lines for jackets and 9 to 3000 pieces per day by on-time delivery lines for trousers, translating the next year to satisfy the Wat its core, Madura into near-about 337 sewing growing demand of its in- Clothing machines for jackets and house brands. “The machines has always 423 for trousers – a total have already been purchased outdone of 760 sewing machines and we are currently training standards along with 185 pressing and people,” informs Jayarajan. set by itself ironing machines. “We are However, he admits that suit by not only arguably the biggest suit manufacturing is a seasonal focussing brand house in the market business, and it is difficult on concepts today,” says Jayarajan K R, to ensure 100% capacity of Lean General Manager – Category utilization, therefore in the manufacturing Operations (Suits and lean period the company also but also Trousers), Madura Clothing does production for other keeping proudly. “The distribution ratio domestic brands and at the employee of sewing machines between same time takes up export engagement the part preparation lines and orders also, during this period. and final assembly keeps changing “Almost all the Indian brands involvement as per the style in production have been manufactured at the but is roughly 65:35 in case at this facility at some point core of its of jackets and 35:65 in case of One of the of time or the other,” avers handmade operations. The facility was trousers,” he adds. Jayarajan. “We are very flexible suits from setup under the guidance the premium The company is now in terms of order size which collection of of Italian technicians for the looking at increasing the varies from 1 piece to 300-400 Madura first two years, and currently suit manufacturing capacity pieces per buyer. The people

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Company Review

“Getting the people is difficult, retaining them is more difficult. By conducting two Employee Satisfaction Surveys’ (ESS), the whole gap between what is being done and what is required has narrowed down to a great extent. After every survey, a team actually looks into all the issues, as the problem might have evolved or changed after the first survey.” Jayarajan K R, General Manager – Category Operations (Suits and Trousers)

The Madura involved in manufacturing reducing the sampling cost across shoulder, sleeve length management are multi-skilled to handle but also the store space and across chest. Currently different styles and requirement for MTM, Madura uses 3D measurement weathered the changeovers,” he adds. considered very critical, solutions in its R&D but not at recession to Being a premier and the in the current scenario of the store level as of now due the numerous biggest suit brand house in high retail cost. Also, earlier to the cost factor. initiatives India, Madura was the first to we used codifications to The company re-launched communicate the customers undertaken by introduce Made-to-Measure the MTM service last year services for the Indian requirements, whereas in the with a lot of improvements the company customers in 2006-07, under new system we capture the under Louis Philippe brand. regarding people- Louis Philippe, extended entire requirements right “We have improved our management, subsequently to Van Heusen. from personal details, fabric, capacity as well as the quality style, measurement and training, But at that time Madura of Made-to-Measure products had difficulties in managing alteration details through by adding handmade jackets development and 60-70 different samples per web-based software such in half and full canvas, which Lean. Moreover, store due to which it had to that the data flow between is a premium category. Some since the exporters discontinue the service for two the store and the factory is of the Made-to-Measure years. In the same two years, seamless and online,” avers suits retail up to US $ 2500,” didn’t have work, Madura focused on training Jayarajan. Patterns being the says Jayarajan. In handmade, most of the labour its workforce both at the retail key to any MTM garment, most of the operations like was automatically and manufacturing end to measurements at the retail chest canvas preparation, employed in our work upon the criticalities of end have to be taken precisely chest canvas attach, armhole Made-to-Measure business.“In and hence proper training stitch, sleeve attach, button – units, ending the the current system there is was also given to retail both on front and sleeve, already very minor no need of so many samples personnel regarding how to decorative pick stitch on front, labour shortage. which helped in not only take key measurements like bottom lining close, etc. are

Team Madura – (L-R sitting) Baraneedharan B, Group Technical Manager; Jayarajan K R, General Manager – Category Operations (Suits and Trousers); Srinath K C, Group Manager – WCM; P M Devadas, General Manager – Industrial Engineering; and Joseph Peter, Manager Quality with other team members

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Company Review

SUIT MANUFACTURING

The cutting room is equipped with auto cutters and spreaders from Gerber Cut panel preparation is done in the cutting room only, like closing darts, etc.

Bundling is very critical for the whole manufacturing process due to the A view of the lining part preparation assembly in progress number of panels in a suit both for outer fabric and lining

Sleeve attachment to the suit is done on specialized machines The final assembly comprises of 35% of the total machines in the line, i.e. from Duerkopp Adler approximately 38 sewing machines

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Company Review

“Among the group, our unit recorded the highest number of Kaizens. We have a rate of something like 8.98 Kaizens per employee. We have a hard copy record of all the 25-30 thousand Kaizens that we have done.” Srinath KC, Group Manager – WCM

done by hand, whereas the body shape; Ultra Fit – Slim at remaining long seams like chest and waist compared to side seam, centre back seam, Classic Fit; Times Fit – Italian lining seams, sleeve seams classic fit-shaped chest and are done by machine. For waist as per body contour and premium handmade suits, is comfortable; and Futura – there is a separate section Italian Slim Fit that is slimmer altogether with craftsmen at chest, waist, armhole specially trained under Savile- and perfect at shoulder. All An innovative Kaizen is attached to a Kansai machine, which only requires the operator to press the clutch, while the waistband is prepared. The Row technician. Savile-Row these can still be customized sensors at the roll automatically stop at the pre-fed length Bespoke is the acknowledge according to individual home of the best bespoke preferences in their body tailoring in Europe. “Fine measurements at various price craftsmanship is what sets ranges in 80 different fabric apart Savile-Row from all and lining options. other suit manufacturers. “We have developed a The attention on detail from detailed measurement a single stitch to the fit to capturing system at the the fabric is quite exquisite,” store which gives the explains Jayarajan. required information to the The Madura brands regularly factory about the fit and conduct anthropology study body measurements of the of different regions in the customers. Based on this input, country and also collect the CAD personal customizes regular feedback of changing the pattern on the specialized customer preferences and Gerber CAD system for MTM trends; based on these inputs and it is stored for future Bundle of a single suit’s parts is made after the part preparation processes, for passing the same to the final assembly different fits are developed. references. The system and Currently Madura offers MTM team ensures the 11 different fits across all delivery of the suit as per its brands, of which 4 are the customer specification exclusively available for Louis within a time period of two Philippe’s MTM customers weeks from taking the order,” that offers them a unique elaborates Jayarajan. opportunity to create their Premium wool fabric is own masterpiece – a Tuxedo, sourced mostly from Italy, mandarin or any suit of their while the other fabric choice, spun from luxury options are sourced from blend of the finest fabrics, India and China. Linen ranging from poly wools fabrics manufactured at and linens to Super 150s the Group unit Jayashree Merino wool. A wide range of Textiles, are used for the Made-to-Measure suits with MTM segment. Most of the 90 different style options in fabrics are exclusive for MTM four different fits, namely, customers and are not used Final inspections of the suits in progress, with focus on defects like open arm hole seam, uneven button hole placement and crown Classic Fit – comfort at chest for manufacturing shaped seam cross and waist – perfect for stout readymade suits.

SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 25 CMYK

Company Review

SUIT FINISHING

Right side of the suit finishing line with all the finishing equipments as per Left side of the suit of the same finishing line usage in sequence

Pressing machine for pressing of shoulders with individually controllable Pressing machine for setting and finishing of sleeves (separate machines vertically mounted frames for right and left side)

Carousel pressing machine for both front and back sides of the suit Button holing in process after all the finishing operations have been completed

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Company Review

TROUSER MANUFACTURING

A view of the Lean sewing line with all the part-preparations and final The indigenously developed overhead material handling system has eased assembly made part of a single line, minimising the material movement the in-line material flow to a great extent as a push of a button is only and hence one of the 7 Wastes required to move the pieces forward

Finishing of the back pocket, side pockets, and crotch are A view of the finishing area, wherein trousers are hung on a line of hangers scrutinized in the checking just after completion of sewing moving from machine to machine

Pocket and side seam pressing in progress Final checking of the finished trousers is adjacent to the finishing area

SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 27 CMYK

Company Review

“I think an exporter caters to huge Implementation of GSD has helped order, and he would run a single style for days, whereas if you would Madura to go Lean see our business, on a single day, minimum 20-25 styles are running In 2000, Madura established its first Industrial on the shop floor. Managing the same Engineering Department with 6 GSD licensed is where our training and activities for operator and staff improvement practitioners after a time period of 12 years. helps us.” Lal Sudhakaran heads a team of 10 GSD licensed P M Devadas, General Manager – practitioners. “We might have had installed the Industrial Engineering system only around March this year, but we have been working on the same principles since Madura's World Class Manufacturing first and then presents it at inception. It is a long legacy,” avers P M Devadas, Through People forums like Kaizen Melas will General Manager – Industrial Engineering, Madura Involvement be given due credit. It also Clothing. Madura has long encourages others to do something on their part. For Devadas believes that GSD is actually a Lean tool and highlighted the ‘World Class monitoring and managing people who wish to go Lean should adopt it. “All of Manufacturing’ status of its manufacturing facilities, which these Kaizen projects, Madura this is not a theory, they are tools. A lot of research represents the company’s has nurtured a team of 6 Black has been invested in their development. Had it been conformance to the seven belts and 64 Green belts in only theory, globally people wouldn’t have been using principles of – reducing lead Six Sigma. “Among the group, the same. The entire process is broken down into times, increasing speed to our unit recorded the highest operations, while doing analysis of operations through market, cut operations costs, number of Kaizens. We have video, you find out opportunities of reducing the non- exceed customer expectations, a rate of something like 8.98 value added activities,” he adds. manage the global enterprise, Kaizen per employee. We have maintained a record of all the The newer version of GSD has a lot of applications. streamline outsourcing processes and improve 25-30 thousand Kaizens that Apart from one of the popular uses of arriving at the business performance we have done,” says Srinath. Standard Minute Value (SMV), it has other modules like visibility. Out of this, increasing One of the biggest challenges the one that can do the costing. For example, a shirt speed to market and lead of suit manufacturing is has a number of features – different collars, different time reduction were one maintaining the premium pockets, and different cuff. GSD has a module in which of the major changes that nature of the product where one can take the main product and then add features. happened in Madura, when quality is the only thing that Madura is presently using GSD only for deciding the company started its Lean matters and to control it, the operations breakdown, arriving at the SMVs and journey about three years everything narrows down cost per minute, but in the near future the company ago. “In the garment industry, to workforce management. would utilize it fully, even for costing applications. one of the biggest problem Workers are taken to the stores to understand what “Improvements can’t be quantified as of now due to is the dormancy and the kind of customers they are the nascent nature of the project, but we expect that quantity in stock which is not getting sold and is later manufacturing for. is more than 20% at least. The resultant would be even discounted. due to which not more as it would be clubbed with the Real Time Data Another very good initiative only a Lean Manufacturing falling on the same lines – Collection System that would be implemented in the setup is required, rather a Large Skill Interactive Process coming months,” adds Devadas. Lean Supply Chain needs to (LSIP), in which lower and At the end of the day for a successful implementation be developed,” said Srinath non-management people of every system, the workforce should be trained and KC, Group Manager – WCM, are divided in groups of 500 made a part of the whole implementation process, Madura Clothing. employees and addressed for an assured success. “We took the video of the old With Kaizen as the backbone either by a store manager, retail manager, head of operation and the new operation, and showed both on consistent improvement manufacturing, group the videos simultaneously on a big screen along with at Madura, the company has president or even by a Louis timings. Comparing the two, when the operators found implemented a ‘Listen Kaizen’ scheme under which a person Philippe customer. the improvement in sewing times and an opportunity who wishes to suggest a A group of employees to earn more, they were actually convinced of the better method or develop a from across all the garment benefits of the new system,” explained Devadas. Kaizen, instead of discussing manufacturing facilities with seniors, implements it of Madura were takens, by

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flight, to one of Aditya Birla’s non garmenting units which are a role model in terms of world class manufacturing to see what the difference is. They studied the 165 best practices and how best they could be adapted at the garment facilities. One of the 64 practices which were adopted was the Lowest Machine Breakdown reward, under which operators were trained on a basic level to maintain their own machines, The best way instead of losing time in to improve the waiting for the maintenance personnel. Each machine is productivity given a Green circle if it works is by using without a single breakdown the latest throughout the month. At the technology, end of the year, the operator with the highest number of believes Green circles gets rewarded. Madura. So, “The basic difference here is currently real that had it been some other apparel company trying to time data learn something new, it would monitoring have gone on to study some system with other apparel company,” RFID is being reasons Srinath. implemented On an individual level, employees are trained and for gaining guided to deliver and perform clarity better. With this enhanced regarding an performance they are recognized and appreciated. operator's Value leaders are spotted efficiency, among them and are instantly work-in recognized and rewarded. This performance-driven process, recognition and development production gives the employees a high. status, hourly It also helps them personally targets and and professionally to make a career in the organization time allotted which in turn helps them to per operation. be independent in the society and manage their families. “Facilities like medical, primary education, dental care, crèches, health camps for the families and arranging micro finances are some of the internal employee's welfare initiatives that the company performs, concludes Srinath.

SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 29 CMYK

Tech Talk

With the global apparel market constantly changing, volumes depreciating and the number of styles increasing, the necessity of a talented and efficient sampling room has amplified more than ever. Moreover, in times like the present slowdown, while the buyers are cost cutting and exporters struggling with reducing margins, the apparel industry is looking for solutions that reduce costs while maintaining the quality to retain preferred status from the buyer. Pattern outsourcing has emerged as a viable option for retailers and manufacturers to accomplish their objectives, without incurring running cost of in-house operations. StitchWorld spoke to some upcoming and popular pattern outsourcing service providers, about the many criticalities of their business. Pattern Outsourcing – An Unexplored Alternative

he pattern outsourcing But the list of services that can CAD operators on leave or service providers have be outsourced is not limited have left the job without prior Tevolved as a relief to small to just patterns. “Adding more notice, or they may not be or medium size manufacturing value to services, we also getting the expected fit,” units which are not capable of do flat sketch development, avers Rajeev. availing the latest technology fashion illustration, print Ravi Kapoor, MD, Tukatech on CAD and specialized development, line sheet (Asia) agrees that it is a machinery for sample development, sample making misconception that only manufacturing as per buyer and data/file conversion, small companies use pattern demands due to limited capital ”informs Rajeev Sharma, outsourcing services. “The resources. These companies MD, Fashion2File. Quite bigger players usually contact provide their customers with unexpectedly, even large us for CAD conversions, or solutions like pattern making, setups with in-house CAD when tough patterns are to grading and digitization or systems approach these be made, for complicated plotting. They may even work specialized companies for grading and more tight for tech pack development, their services. Rajeev who markers. Also to check marker making or cut planning. has been in the pattern if the markers they have “For the domestic market, outsourcing business for 15 made are efficient enough digitizing and pattern grading years has about 180 domestic or can be improved.” The is the most popular while for and 12 international clients, pattern outsourcing solution the international market, tech some of whom are big players. providers claim to have an packs and pattern making “There are numerous reasons edge over the in-house setup are more in demand,” says for the big companies to of even the most technology Dinesh Divakaran, CEO of outsource their work which savvy factories. “It is not only Apparel BPO. includes sudden workload, about the technology, we are

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Tech Talk

An average of 4-5 styles are Almost all the pattern making service handled by each of the pattern providers deliver the first release of masters per day not only for patterns within 24 hours. Usually it takes making new patterns but also for 2 or at times 3 alterations before the grading and other purposes patterns are ready for production

specialists in pattern making, we are able to cut down on fit basic pattern drafting to 3D isn’t far behind, getting15 grading and marker making. corrections before a physical fit simulation services, with styles for grading, 18 for We do conversions from one prototype is sewn,” avers pattern making cost going up patterns and 10 for tech packs CAD system to another within Dinesh. The CAD softwares to $ 100 per style of a trench almost everyday. Tukatech minutes. The CAD conversion that are being used by these coat from as little as $ 2 for claims a similar figure, whereas capability is usually absent service providers are varied. marker plotting per a relatively new Apparel in garment units across the While Fashion2Fit is using running metre. Resources easily produces globe. Also we are experts Opticad, Apparel Solutions One can understand the 20-25 patterns per day. in making the most efficient depends on Richpeace, and demand of this service by Though the end requirement markers and in testing the fit,” Apparel BPO trusts OptiTex the fact that an established may be the same the way reasons Ravi. and Gemini CAD systems. company like Fashion2Fit the information is conveyed Sriniwas Sharma, Director Tukatech obviously uses the gets as many as around varies. “Sometimes we receive of Apparel Solutions, indigenously developed 40-45 styles a day for pattern the complete techpack with another pattern outsourcing TukaCAD, SmartMark, making, 20-23 styles a day all the details of a garment, at service adds,“80 per cent of and Tuka3D. for grading, 20-25 styles for times we get just the picture the companies that have CAD With these advanced marker making and about and very basic measurements are not using them efficiently. softwares, the range of 19-20 styles for data and in some cases we receive They basically use it for marker services offered expands from conversion. Apparel BPO the sample and we have to making, as the patterns are usually made manually. They are separately digitized and uploaded because of which grading them becomes quite a headache. And sometimes even the personnel operating the CAD are not adequately trained. Here we can perform everything under the same roof with personnel who have the best knowledge of pattern making and CAD.” Interestingly, at Sometimes we Unfortunately CAD We do conversions from most companies there are receive the complete skilled pattern makers one CAD system to no dedicated in-house fit techpack with all the are still a handful in another within minutes. technician and the job is details of a garment, the industry and there This ability is usually being handled by the at times we get just is always a shortage absent in garment units pattern master. the picture and very of skilled manpower, across the globe. We The other feature that gives basic measurements, especially during the are experts in making these pattern suppliers and many a time we peak season. The cost the most efficient an advantage in terms of receive the sample and benefit comes into markers and in testing technology is the use of 3D we have to replicate effect during a lean the fit. We use our modelling for fit approvals it. But, anyhow we season. If you were own Tuka3D software during sampling. Tukatech have to be ready to be outsourcing, then you for that. It reduces is a premier in this field with able to make patterns would not need to pattern, proto and their own Tuka3D software with best possible retain a team and pay sample development for virtual fitting and draping. information available salaries even when and approval time “3D fit options are increasingly with the factory.” there is no work...” drastically.” used by us for fit approvals RAJEEV SHARMA, DINESH DIVAKARAN, RAVI KAPOOR, during sampling. Using this MD, Fashion2Fit CEO, Apparel BPO MD, Tukatech (Asia)

SEPTEMBER 2012  StitchWorld 31 CMYK

Tech Talk

The companies which had Tabular representation of the price of various pattern-related been in the business of service providers by all the major pattern outsourcing for pattern outsourcing service some time now, recognize providers in India that there has been a Services Cost shift in the kind of orders Pattern making they receive. “As fashion Shirt/Top/ $ 30-$ 35 is changing more rapidly Blouses the number of styles are Trousers/ $ 30-$ 35 increasing by the day, Shorts Cargo pants/ therefore a lot of pattern $ 35-$ 40 making is required. Volumes Shorts 80 per cent of the The iterations during are decreasing and style Skirts $ 25-$ 30 companies are not sample approvals are variations are increasing Dresses About 40$ using CAD efficiently; a critical bottleneck too with a greater emphasis Camisole $ 30-$ 35 they basically use it in pre-production on fits,” argues Ravi. But Jackets $ 60-$ 80 Coats/ for marker making, activities of apparel if the number of styles is $ 80-$ 100 Trench coats as the patterns are manufacturing. It is increasing it becomes logical Pattern grading usually made manually. wiser to give work that manufacturers establish 1-6 sizes (up to 10 $ 30-$ 37 Therefore digitising, to those who are an in-house capacity for pattern pieces) uploading and grading specialized in the job. pattern making to cut down For extra no. of them becomes quite a Currently, there is an the cost. Dinesh counters pieces or sizes/ $ 2 headache. Here we can apprehension about the argument, “An in-house per size perform everything data secrecy, once capacity for pattern making Marker making may sound most desirable Production Markers under the same that can be ensured per material group $ 30 roof with personnel there should not be for any manufacturer, but (Solid Fabrics) who have the best any looking back unfortunately CAD skilled Production Markers per material group knowledge of pattern for apparel pattern pattern makers are still a $ 40-$ 50 handful in the industry and (Check or Engg. making and CAD.” Making BPOs.” Fabrics) there is always a shortage SRINIWAS SHARMA, DR. PRABIR JANA, Plotting (per $ 2 Director, Apparel Solution Professor, NIFT, Delhi of skilled manpower running metres) especially during the peak File conversions $ 5 per file season. So, even having a $ 50-$ 135 as Tech pack replicate it, but in all cases we is very obvious. However, fully equipped CAD system per styles and development have to be ready to be able we have developed some is not enough unless you details required to make patterns with best Microsoft based excel have skilled pattern makers Pattern digitizing $ 1.5 per part possible information available forms to fill for each service behind it. The cost benefit NB: with the factory,” says Rajeev. so that we could provide *3D virtual prototyping and cut planning comes into effect during is also performed by some of the pattern Sriniwas claims that he also them one page where all a lean season. If you were service providers on request of the develops designs for the related information can be outsourcing, then you customer. manufacturers. provided to us,” informs would not need to retain a *Approximately $ 5 extra are charged for lining patterns. Almost all the companies Rajeev. Nevertheless, many team and pay salaries even deliver their orders within 24 tend to believe that with the when there is no work. No hours, and may add another corporate and professional fixed overheads can be a 24 if the order is for the culture sweeping into the boon during these times. Most of the pattern international market. The garment industry, such ”Rajeev goes one step ahead outsourcing providers has patterns don’t generally need communications are not and adds, “I think this is one the same pricing and delivery more than 2-3 alterations to an issue.“Even if we are not of the reasons that such times; however, they tend achieve the optimum fit, but directly in contact with the services can be offered as a to gain advantage over each the situation becomes more buyers, most corrections stand-alone business model other through exclusive tiring when the company is can be conveyed effectively at a very competitive price. It technology and services. All not working directly with with a few photographs has been quite challenging of them are capitalizing on the buyer. “The reason is that and sketches sent over for every organization to an uncharted segment of the we have to work with the the internet. We have now do everything in-house and industry and are motivated factory team and they are started working with a live control every process and to take advantage of the lead working with the buyer’s team video link which is much at the same time being they have owing to be the first therefore the information loss more effective,” says Dinesh. cost-effective.” in the business.

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Tech Talk

With many in the industry going in for Lean implementation as a way to save on wastages and curb cost of production, the number of consultants that have mushroomed over the last two years is confusing… Most consultants working in the industry today have started using the word ‘Lean’. Everyone seems to have become a Lean consultant… Lean sigma, Lean productivity, Lean manufacturing…, but are these consultants really conforming to the concept of Lean? With the term Lean being freely used and abused, no clear-cut demarcation on who is actually a Lean consultant has emerged. Team StitchWorld discussed with three top consultants, who have been working extensively with the Lean concept, on making the right choice; their observations and advises are very directional when choosing a Lean consultant…

How to Choose a Lean Consultant?

e all know of Clearly defining stand to look at yourself. If situations where expectations… that’s the case, shut your eyes consultants come when standing in front of the W Every expert agrees that there into a plant, put in a few mirror. This first step might be has to be a synergy between Lean tools, pat a few backs the most difficult part of the the expectation of the client Many (including their own) and whole process.” and the Lean consultant. companies tend then leave. But is the job However, Hank is most vocal He further suggested that really done, was he the right to overlook the on the issue. He argues, “When only when the expectations person for the job, will the harmony in a seeking a consultant, Lean are crystal clear and written, implementation give long- consultant’s or otherwise, the first step is then the process of selecting thought process term results…, these are some to look in the mirror. Stare at an appropriate candidate of the questions that crop when selecting yourself and ask what it is that should begin. “Don’t rush up. Many consultants/client will satisfy your needs. Not the into this. Treat it much like them, which failures happen because the “things” to accomplish them, you would if you were hiring means how two parties have different that’s the consultant’s job, someone to fill a position in seamlessly a expectations and have but the “results”. Remember, your company. Share a copy consultant can not clearly visualized the satisfaction is simply reality of your written expectations project’s successful outcome. blend with a meeting expectations. with them and decide which As Hank Olszewski of The Visualize the successful one is the best that FITS the company’s Sew Lean Company puts end results (these are your job,” he advices. Aligning corporate it, “The importance of clear expectations) and how goals is critical. “Corporates culture. expectations in being satisfied satisfied you will feel when can work on long-term plans with a consultant’s work and they are met. Then write it all in driving Lean across, but the consultant being satisfied down. Do not skip any part of owner-driven companies look with his/her own work as well.” this first step even if you can’t at improvement within 24

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Tech Talk

hours; everything is short- Another major debate is With more than 20 term which is opposed to whether the consultant for years of experience,he Lean where the mind is set for Lean solutions should have understands the long-term, and this is where experience of the specific intricacies of progressive the benefits can be collected industry to be successful. bundle and Lean after 1 to 2 years of intensive Hank feels that being an Lean efforts,” reminds Charles outsider may in fact be an manufacturing systems, Dagher, CEO, Dagher advantage. “Judge their and has actually grown Consultancy. expertise by investigating from a line supervisor their experience with Lean to a Lean expert. He Formal education overall and in your industry specializes in 5S, kanban, or shop floor specifically. However, don’t plant engineering, single- discount someone solely experience… piece flow and operator on the fact that they are To derive the best results, not experienced in your Hank Olszewski training projects. while some experts feel industry,” he advises. Though The Sew Lean Company that a formal education in CJ acknowledges that when Lean is significant, they all it comes to Lean consultants, unanimously agree that it does not matter whether A professional Industrial experience and body of they have same industry past achievements is more Engineer with an MBA, experience because it is a important, as the industry he has worked as a set of tools, principles and is a very ‘hands-on industry’. consultant in the National concepts to teach and drive/ “There are no certifications Productivity Improvement direct on implementation for Lean expertise and every of the same. However, he Programs carried out in consultant develops their adds, “It will be an added Sri Lanka, Bangladesh own tools to suit the industry advantage if the consultant and Pakistan. Specific needs,” says Dagher. has the same industry areas of expertise However, Chandrajith experience as he can better include just-in-time Wickramasinghe (also share or understand the systems, materials popularly addressed as CJ), situation to trouble shoot.” handling, and production CEO, Corrigo Consultancy Dagher argues that Charles Dagher and performance clarifies that there are though any consultant CEO, Dagher Consultancy management programs. a couple of universities with just-in-time expertise and institutes that offer might be able to assist in certificates/belts like Green, improving the industry Black, etc. in Lean, which with some limitations, as gives credibility to the the improvement is mostly With more than 15 consultants.“I have a Master related to the connection years of experience in Black Belt and Executive of processes to shorten the industry, and over a certification from INSEAD lead time and eliminate any decade of experience in Business School France, but replication in procedures, MAS Holding, Sri Lanka, for a consultant what really the question here is that CJ has attended INSEAD matters is how the consultant apparel sector differs gained his knowledge about from other manufacturing Business School, France Lean and where has he sectors such as automobile, and IIM, Bangalore. applied those,” he says. Adds pharmaceutical, electronics, He holds expertise in Hank, “Formal schooling, etc. where their processes areas of green factory degrees, and certificates are are driven by automation setup, human resource not the only means to gaining as opposed to apparel management, business intelligence. Look more for sector which is still driven process re-engineering how they make sense of by manpower who perform Chandrajith things and how they figure their job through established Wickramasinghe (CJ) and material handling CEO, Corrigo Consultancy out what needs to be done.” work methods that yield to systems.

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Tech Talk

“Don’t discount someone on the fact that they are not experienced in your industry,” advises Hank while Dagher reasons that the apparel sector might not benefit to the fullest by engaging the expert from other sector.

revenue. “Having said this, with handling minimum 10-15 culture not a physical the apparel sector might successful implementations change,” concludes Dagher. not benefit to the fullest by as a consultant. “Work engaging a Lean expert from experience, prior to becoming Who's the best – any other sector compared a consultant as Sensei or senior Independent or to a Lean expert from apparel managerial position holder, Consultant Group responsible for implementing sector,” reasons Dagher. Hank believes that Lean concepts in a reputed Indeed the apparel industry independents work better. organization, which had is driven by systems and “When a Lean consultant successfully transformed work methods for better has a tricky problem to solve, to Lean enterprise, is also labour utilization since the cavalry doesn’t need to important,” avers CJ. labour is the main driver of be called in. Lean is about revenue, generated from Blending with the creativity and common their productivity, which is team sense. He/she just gets more the result of a good process imaginative. Problems need (flow) and efficient work Perhaps one of the biggest more creative solutions, methods (cycle time). “In factors, which many not more consultants,” companies tend to overlook the improvement process he argues. While, Dagher when selecting a consultant, (pertaining to lots of wasteful agrees with him that a is the harmony in the thought motions due to lack of consultant is a facilitator with process, which basically standardization), most Lean a goal of aligning everyone means how seamlessly the experts from other sector within the factory to drive consultant can blend in won’t focus on work methods improvements, he points out with your corporate culture. due to their lack of technical that sometimes a consultancy “Make sure the candidate and engineering skill and firm can have an edge. “One is aware of your corporate knowledge. Lean at Toyota consultant is enough, but culture and determine if his/ was built by the engineering some consultancy firms her personality fits in. Be team not by managers,” share roles as well, by having sure to let him/her know avers Dagher. more than one consultant how his/her work must be since apparel is built on aligned with achieving your History of management, finance, implementations… company’s mission and goals. Also determine, how many of systems and methods. Having determined that your workers and the other This might require several the consultant has the staff will interact with him/her consultants’ expertise and right attitude to handle the and decide if the candidate’s probably one consultant challenges of the industry, it is personality enhances or won’t have the skill required important to look at how they upsets your team working to cover all areas,” he reasons. handled their past projects together,” says Hank. With the successful which most resembled the Dagher is very critical of the implementation of Lean specific need of the factory. consultants currently working dependent on two pillars “Be sure to ask for not-so- in the industry. “Most of the – respect and teamwork – successful results as well as consultants in India and CJ is honest when he says, triumphs. If they have none, Bangladesh who have “Independent consultant with ask how they would handle heard about Lean in the complete knowledge or team your need. Keep in mind that past few years and claim of consultants with shared Lean is more about being themselves as experts, are knowledge, both would work clever and imaginative than limited only to physical out to be the same. But what just using tools out of a box,” change as they are copying really makes the difference argues Hank. concepts from one factory to is that the client should have CJ emphasizes that the another but Lean is beyond a team dedicated for Lean consultant should have in- that, it is about creating a implementation to get best depth experience in industry continuous improvement out of a consultant.”

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Stitch World

SEPTEMBER 2012 CMYK

Tech Talk

Garment industry over the years has adopted various key performance measures from different industries and invented some of their own. In the third part of the article series, Mausmi Ambastha, a budding entrepreneur providing IT solutions for the apparel industry, Director and Founder of intelloCut, with years of experience as a consultant and a former faculty at NIFT, discusses a collection of performance metrics being used in the industry, for enhancing both the operational and financial performance of a business. Some of these measures may not be part of scientific analysis or give a holistic picture but they do serve the purpose for which they have been designed and are being successfully used.

Performance Measurement Tools – 3 Cutting and Production Planning In the third part of the article series on Simple Performance Measurement Tools, the author discusses performance measures from cutting, planning and human resource related areas.Cutting is considered to be the most important operation in apparel manufacturing because firstly, it handles the costliest material resource – the fabric. Secondly, the spreading and cutting process is irreversible; the concept of repair or alteration does not work here. Further, and most importantly, due to over-emphasis on measuring sewing department performance, there is a sheer neglect of measuring the spreading, cutting and planning performance. This results in building up inefficiencies, leading to erosion of cost advantages.

Cutting used in textile industry. As per the marker to total available fabric. PhD thesis, “A Study of Productivity Marker efficiency is calculated for The performance metrics in this and Financial Efficiency of Textile department are mostly focussed on one marker at a time and cannot Industry of India”, submitted by fabric, the most expensive resource. be generalised for the entire order. Zala, Virambhai S to the Saurashtra This metric is mostly automatically Material Productivity: This is an University in 2010, the average calculated by CAD machines. indicator of the output or value material productivity of Textile generated per unit of material used. Industry is 4.07. This study was done Area of marker Marker used for garments = Output (value or unit on financial data of seven prominent efficiency Total area of marker Material or value added) = textile companies of India. productivity Value of raw Area of marker used for garment: material used Example: Factory XYZ bought 4200 metres of fabric at the cost of Rs. 46 The CAD system calculates the area This is a fundamental re-examination per metre for order A1. They produced of all the patterns placed on the of how, when and why materials 2000 garments and sold them at the marker. are used. This measure shows cost of Rs. 300 each. Total area of marker: This is simple how effectively material is used Therefore, Material Productivity is multiplication of length X width. through the system. Any material (2000X300) / (4200X46) = 3.10. left in the fabric store is also a Marker efficiency above 80% to 85% waste as it will be disposed of at Therefore, order A1 generated Rs.3.1 is considered good. However, this a much cheaper rate.This is not a for every Rs.1 of material used. value can vary depending on the very common metric in garment Marker Efficiency: This is the pattern shapes (say bias skirts) and industry but has been extensively ratio of fabric actually used on the restrictions on pattern placements

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Tech Talk

“Both the aspects of cutting and spreading handle the most costly raw material – the fabric, and their operations are also irreversible in nature. Still due to overemphasis on the sewing floor, there is sheer neglect in measuring various critical aspects of both the spreading and cutting departments. The measures discussed would surely serve as a stepping stone for an apparel manufacturer.” – Mausmi Ambastha

(say for stripes and plaids). This is Marked fabric consumption = 585/300 Fabric Utilization: This is the an important indicator to decide on = 1.95 metres. This value does not ratio of fabric used on garments the quality of marker or whether by include wastages such as end loss or to fabric available to be used. This changing the position of the patterns end bits. metric tells us the fabric utilization the CAD operator is improving on the Achieved Consumption: This is the status of the entire order. Fabric marker or not. actual consumption achieved per generally costs 60% to 70% of the It is often observed that 80% of garment after the whole production cost of the garment. Strict controls should ensure that every inch of the garments are cut by 20% of the process is completed. This requires the fabric is used properly and is markers. Therefore, effort should extensive calculation but the result accounted for. be expended to improve marker gives a realistic image of loss of efficiency of these 20% markers material in the system. Fabric Fabric used on garments = which can result in significant amount utilization Total fabric available Total fabric of savings. Achieved bought for the style Total fabric available = Fabric consumption = One should note that the marker Total garments shipped allocated or bought for the order. efficiency only states the quality The above formula will show final Fabric used on garment = This can be of marker, there is still room achieved consumption. The losses calculated in following ways. for material wastage in a lay in on material incurred by the whole a. By weight terms of end loss, width loss and factory in terms of dead stock, end mismanaged end-bits. bits and cutting room losses, part i. Weigh one garment of each size ( garment should be Marked Consumption: Consumption change and rejection in sewing, weighed before sewing) of a garment calculated as per rejection in finishing as well as the markers made by the CAD unshipped garments are included in ii. Multiply weight with number department. In order to calculate this calculation. of garments cut in each size this metric the following steps have to If user wants to measure only cutting iii. Divide total weight by GSM and be followed: room achieved consumption then fabric width to get total metres  Make a cut order plan stating the formula should be slightly used in garments. markers and no. of plies for altered. Total fabric issued to cutting b. By Length each lay. divided by total cut garments issued i. Multiply Marker length with its to sewing department will show  Make all the markers. Marker efficiency and number the achieved consumption of of plies laid in the marker.  Calculate total length of fabric cutting room. being used on the lays. ii. The above calculation is done Example: For the previous example for each marker in the order  Divide this value by total 640 metres of fabric was finally and then sum of all gives the garments to be produced. bought(9.4% more than that required) total metres used in garments. Example: out of which 630 metres was issued to cutting department. The cutting room The above will give fabric utilization Cut Order Plan records show cutting of 315 garments. for the order. The formula can be Markers S M The factory finally shipped 290 extended to calculate overall fabric Lay 1= 100 plies S-1, M-1 100 100 garments. 25 garments were rejected utilization for the factory in a month. Lay 2= 50 plies M-2 100 in the process. Example: As per the previous example 100 pcs. of S & 200 pcs. of M Achieved consumption (factory Total Fabric available = 640 metres Marker lengths: S-1, M-1 = 3.8 metres, level) = 640/290 = 2.21metres (11.8% The fabric weight is 110 GSM and M-2= 4.1 metres wasted) the fabric width is 1.07 metres. The Total fabric needed= 3.8X100 + 4.1 X 50 Achieved consumption (cutting room) markers as mentioned in previous = 585 metres = 630/315 = 2 metres (2.5% wasted) examples are shown below:

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Tech Talk

Efficiency of a cut order plan is defined by the number of plies and lays it suggests. An inefficient cut order plan results in 4-6 cm end loss per ply, lower marker efficiency, more labour time in cutting, besides substantial amount of fabric wastage

Markers Marker Marker S M Least Total order quantity should be taken from cutting room length efficiency possible = Maximum pieces plies daily records. Lay 1= S-1, M-1 3.8 85% 100 100 allowed in a marker 100 plies metres Many factories collect this Lay 2= M-2 4.1 80% 100 Least Total order quantity information as monthly average as 50 plies metres possible = (Maximum pieces in lays a marker X Maximum well as a percentage for individual Fabric used in the garment: plies in a lay orders. This gives a general performance level of the company. a. By weight It should be noted that it is always There may be various reasons for possible to achieve the above least i. Weight of size “S” garment an ambiguous result and further possible numbers if the orders are =187.1 gms , size “M” garment = investigation may be required. 193 gms properly planned. There may be slight variation of 1% in case of Example: As per previous example, ii. Total weight of order multiple colour orders. For some the factory XYZ had an order of 300 = (100 X 187.1) + (200 X 193) pieces. The cutting room records show = 57310 gms specialized cases like placement prints, this formula may not give the cutting of 315 garments but only 290 iii. Total metres used on garments achievable solution. garments were finally shipped. = 57310 / (110 X 1.07) Cut to ship ratio = 290/315 = 92% (8% = 487 metres The factory can compare actual with least possible solutions and check garments were lost/rejected in the b. By Length if their cutting room managers are process) i. Marker 1 = 3.8 X 0.85 X 100 following the above systems and Labour Cost per minute: This = 323 metres, using the available fabric in best is a very important metric while Marker 2 = 4.1 X 0.80 X 50 possible way. calculating the price of a garment. = 164 metres It helps to quickly calculate the ii. 323 + 164 = 487 metres Production Planning labour cost that will be incurred in production of the given garment. Both the formulas achieved the same It is defined as “The technique result. The factory can use either of of foreseeing or picturing ahead Total cost every step along series of separate Cost per incurred on labour the methods for calculation. Fabric minute = operations; each step to be taken in Total available working utilization = 487 / 640 = 76.10% . minutes X No. of labour the right place, of the right degree and Cut order plan: A cut order plan is at the right time, and each operation This can be calculated over a month effective if it uses least number of to be done at maximum efficiency.” or a year to give an accurate value to plies and least number of lays while – In“Production Management and cost per minute. cutting an order. An ineffective cut Productivity” by Dayal. R. et al. To calculate labour cost of a new order plan can result in following order, its standard minute is losses: Cut to Ship Ratio:This shows the percentage of garments shipped out calculated and then multiplied to a. Additional 4 cm to 6 cm end loss cost per minute and efficiency to get on every increased ply of total number of garments cut for the order. It shows a bird’s eyeview the actual labour cost that will be b. Smaller markers may have lower of the entire system. A number close incurred during its production. marker efficiencies. to 98% will be considered very well. Example: Factory XYZ has 400 c. Higher number of plies and lays This means only 2% of garments are direct sewing operators and helpers. result in more labour time in rejected or lost in the system. The cost to company for these 400 laying and cutting operators is Rs. 32,00,000 per month. Cut to Total pieces shipped d. Higher number of plies and lays = The company works for 8 hours per ship ratio Total pieces cut may result in higher end bits and day for 24 days in a month. Therefore, fabric wastages. Total pieces shipped: This should be total working minutes per operator It is possible to calculate least taken from final packing list. = 11,520 minutes per month. number of possible plies and least Total pieces cut: This should be all Cost per minute = 32,00,000 / number of possible lays for an order. the garments cut for this order. This ( 11,520 X 400) = Rs. 0.69 per minute

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Tech Talk

If the factory makes standard product, capacity can be expressed in terms of number of pieces. However, if there is a huge variation in the products produced, then the unit of measure should ideally be number of minutes produced. This is summation of each garment produced multiplied by its standard minute value

Plan Performance Index: This potential output which ‘could’ be of waiting time before or after shows the percentage of variation produced with it, if capacity was actual manufacturing and between the planned work and the fully used. throughput time. actual work done. Produced garments or There has been a huge demand to Capacity Produced minutes reduce lead times for quicker reach Plan Achieved production utilization = X 100 performance = X 100 Capacity in terms index Planned production of garments or minutes of the product to the market. Overtime Percentage: The This helps in evaluating how efficient If the factory makes standard percentage of overtime being is your factory plan in order to meet product, capacity can be used over total working time. As your delivery dates. The ideal value expressed in terms of number overtime costs considerable amount is 100% but a 97% hit rate should be of pieces. However, if there is a of money to the company, a tight considered good. huge variation in the products produced, then the unit of control should be kept on overtime This is just a representative figure measure should ideally be number percentage. and further investigation is required of minutes produced. This is Total overtime minutes Overtime = X 100 to investigate the results. Overtime, summation of each garment Total working minutes work outsourcing, vendor delay, produced multiplied by its This can be calculated over days, quality can affect this index value standard minute value. Capacity weeks or months, representing the and the result may need further should also be expressed in overtime being used in the factory. investigation. For example a 100% number of minutes. Planning department can improve PPI may have been achieved by As stated in an article in Economic their plan in future and keep a doing a lot of overtime which is not Times, Richa Industries garment check on their plan based on these the expected result. division runs with a capacity overtime trends. On-time Delivery: This represents utilization of 88%. OTIF: OTIF (On Time In Full), the percentage of deliveries that Example: Factory XYZ has 400 or DIFOT (Delivered In Full On operators and they work at 65% a factory is able to make on-time Time), is one of the fundamental efficiency. The factory runs 24 days in without any delays or extensions. measurements for logistics a month, 8 hours each day. On-time On-time delivery performance. It measures, weather = X 100 delivery Total deliveries The factory made 2, 00,000 pieces of the Supply Chain was able to deliver 12 minutes each in the last month. or not - An on-time delivery means that the products are delivered exactly on Produced minutes = 2, 00,000 X 12  The expected product the date the exporter has promised = 24,00,000 minutes (reference and quality) to the customer. A before time Capacity = 400 X 0.65 X 24 X 480  In the quantity ordered (with delivery is equally bad as a late = 29,95,200 minutes the tolerance defined by the delivery as it needs the buyer to Capacity utilization = customer) spend on warehouse space and 24,00,000/29,95,200 = 80%  At the place agreed money. This simple indicator is a  At the time expected by the Lead Time: The lead time is the very important factor in most customer time period between the buyers' books to evaluate their Number of deliveries OTIF placement of an order and the OTIF = X 100 factory performances. Total number of deliveries shipment of the completed Capacity Utilization: Extent or level order to the customer. A short To reach a good OTIF level, all the to which the productive capacity of manufacturing lead time is a functions of the supply chain (among a factory is being used in generation competitive advantage; many which orders taking, procurement, of goods. Therefore, it refers to the customers want the delivery of suppliers, warehouses, transport...) relationship between actual output their products as soon as have to work at their best level. OTIF that ‘is’ produced with the installed possible following the placement of allows seeing at a glance; how the equipment and manpower, and the the order. Lead time consists company delivers its customers.

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India: Prateek Apparels targets Rs. 100 crore for the next financial year Defines product development and handling shorter production runs as strength

ne of the largest In 2011, Prateek Omanufacturer and retailer, Bangalore and Hubli-based Apparels also Prateek Apparels will soon established increase its hold in the export Bilteek Fashions in business by enhancing its Bangalore producing export share from the current 20% to 50% of the total sales. 2,60,000 shirts per The company, targeting for month, in a joint Rs. 100 crore in next FY, is venture with Turkey- currently manufacturing based fashion around 6,00,000 pieces manufacturer and per month and catering to brands primarily based in retailer Bilsar Europe and USA. “We are not doing low value high volume driven business which is the current mainstay of the export extend this design to delivery Bilsar, for producing high- world. We are looking to industry in India and are concept on a global scale by end men and women shirts. tie-up with international focusing on a differentiated servicing niche fashion brands Bilteek Fashions is currently manufacturers who can bring offering,” says Sanjay Dalmia, that typically do not work producing 2,60,000 shirts per in latest technology and President, Prateek Apparels in with most manufacturers in month. marketing support to further an exclusive interaction with Asia or Africa owing to smaller With the focus of the build on this,” adds Sanjay. Team StitchWorld. volumes and higher standards company on product Based on latest international Prateek Apparels of design and quality,” says development and trends, market surveys and manufactures four categories Sanjay. Currently the company manufacturing skills to research, the company’s of bottom wear namely, has 5 manufacturing facilities offer high-value fashion efficient design team develops fashion-casual shorts, dress for manufacturing formal to discerning clientele, its over 300 styles a month which trousers (formal trousers), shirts, casual shirts, jeans, biggest advantage is the are offered to their customers casual trousers (classic and women’s ethnic wear and ability to handle smaller for selection and the orders stylized) and jeans. “Our trousers. In 2011, Prateek volumes per style/option are driven by the same. Most business model is driven Apparels also established in production. “We can of the top brand names by design, manufacturing Bilteek Fashions (in Bangalore) manufacture as low as 1000 across the country such as efficiencies and the ability in a joint venture with pieces per style which enables Levi’s, VF Corp, Arvind Brands, to handle smaller order the Turkey-based fashion us to target differentiated Pantaloons to name a few quantities. The strategy is to manufacturer and retailer fashion brands across the are a part of their client list.

TRADE STATISTICS

In the first four months, In the first four months In the first five Bangladesh registered quantities imported by of 2012, exports to the months, US imports downfall in both value EU fell by (-) 10.36%, EU by China declined decreased in volumes and volumes during while values declined (-) 15.80% in volumes by (-) 4.12%, though Jan.-May 2012 in its by (-) 3.97%. The and (-) 7.94% in value, the values marginally exports to the US by (-) average UVR increased the average UVR was increased by 0.57%, 0.81% and (-) 8.61%, considerably this year Euro 15.94. Bangladesh with an average UVR respectively. The average to Euro 17.52 (per kg of registered gains of of US $ 3.22, up from UVR was US $ 2.91. fabric equivalent) from 17.94% in value and US $ 3.07 a year China saw growth in Euro 16.36 (per kg of 3.79% in volume with earlier. exports of 2.13% in value fabric equivalent) in average UVR of Euro and 1.88% in quantity same period last year. 12.67. with UVR of US $ 2.92.

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Italy: CAD Modelling Ergonomics offering ‘Measurements India: Al-Rkayan Apparel and to Mannequins’ for Mass Customization Exports invests Rs. 32 crore to double capacity n a market increasingly garments and the design Iturned to globalization of ergonomic products. l-Rkayan Apparel and Exports, and considering the time These dummies are built Aa Mumbai-based jeans of crisis, it is fundamental on the Theory of Body manufacturer, getting into new to guide companies Shapes© by the founder markets for exports, will soon toward a targeted and owner of the company double its capacity. The company, production based on real Silvio Quattrocolo. with a turnover of Rs. 36 crores, and anthropometric studies According to this theory currently producing 4,000 pieces carried out in different each person can be per day, has started its new unit in countries. CAD Modelling classified into the proper 7,500 square metres in Ambarnath Ergonomics offers a morphological family. Fx- near Ulhasnagar (Maharashtra) with system to standardize all FIT software, which helps an investment of Rs. 32 crore. The these data and provides in the identification of the washing unit here is almost ready solutions for Mass correct body shape of the to commence operations while the Customization in order to scanned subject, is the sewing plant with a capacity of 4,000 The Formax® increase sales and save mannequins added value of the entire pieces per day will be operational by resources. made on the system; by a comparison the coming January. basis of real CAD Modelling anthropometry between the subject Talking exclusively to StitchWorld, Ergonomics, taking of the human and the anthropometric body Prabhakar Shetty, Managing advantage of the large database, it is possible to Director of the company said, “We database built over more Body-ScanFIT® system, identify the correspondent selected Ambarnath to setup our than 40 years, provides the only 3D portable body shape for both the new unit because this place under innovative solutions body scanner in the upper and lower part the MIDC (Maharashtra Industrial for the textile and world. The easy setup of the body, providing Development Corporation) has the clothing industry; the and calibration make it important information to right infrastructure and facilities and Formax® anthropometric the right tool to get body apparel manufacturers more importantly washing/dyeing mannequins, tailoring volumes and forms in on how to guarantee the is allowed here. Also, the workers are dummies, or more few seconds. Exploiting perfect fit and comfort. readily available as 50 per cent of precisely the real anatomy, the extensive know-how Some brands that for the labour here is migratory and we made on the basis of in anthropometrics, CAD years have relied on CAD are providing them accommodation real shapes and volumes Modelling Ergonomics Modelling Ergonomics’ along with training facilities.” of the human body. The developed the fit apparel solutions are D&G, Gucci The two-decade old company has its company, to provide mannequins Formax®, Kids, Coin/Oviesse, Silvian own domestic brand and is also doing innovative solutions to anthropometric dummies Heach, Zara, Britax and job work for well-known brands like its customers, developed for fitting activities of many others. Pepe Jeans, Spyker, Raymond and Westside. The company is known for its washing capabilities and Shetty INDIA STATISTICS claims that their company is the only one in Mumbai using Municipal water In Jan.- April 2012, In the first five For India, nightwear for washing not the underground India exported months, the total has always been a water, as the ground water does not 9.34 million kg of exports of dresses growth category; produce good results on washing. trousers worth Euro to the US were during the first With the enhanced capacities, the 181.04 million to 24,85,440 dozens five months, India company is now planning to export jeans to Egypt and Russia. With a total the EU. During the worth US $ 219.60 exported US $ production capacity of 8,000 pieces period export value million. The category 32.30 million worth per day after expansion, the strategy decreased (-) 7.88% saw declines of (-) of nightwear with is to dedicate 50% of its production to over the same period 1.43% in value and 13.44% growth in exports. Shetty is very hopeful to get in 2011, while the (-) 10.65% in volume value and 26.44% orders from Russia in the next season total quantity fell by against the same in volumes. and is looking at a growth of 150%. (-) 17.30%. period last year.

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News Track

India: Sprayway introduces Dry Silicone Spray for sewing machine’s needle lubrication

he 65-year-old pioneer in The Dry Silicone Spray is a Tthe field of aerosols and unique innovation for handling sprays for the apparel and problems related to needle textile industry, Sprayway holes and needle breakage, USA has added the dry while sewing. As the machines silicone spray to its already work at high speeds, and there well-accepted line of spot is a lot of friction generated lifter, lubricant sprays, fusing when the needle passes machine belt cleaners, no through the fabrics, the needle fray sprays and adhesives. gets heated up and has the The company has been tendency of creating a needle active in India for the past 12 hole in the fabric or even years helping end-users to breaking. With the help of the improve their productivity, non-stainable lubricant, the efficiency, quality and cost- needles would actually get

effectiveness. “We have been heated up, enabling reduction Vasant Bhat (L), Country Manager – Sprayway India with Ravi from doing great service since our of minimum 40-50% in the Wellknown Syndicate, Sprayway's Tirupur agent entry in the Indian market problems arising due to the due to our focus on the needle breakages and heat utility and cost-effectiveness up. “The spray not only has As the world’s number one as 18 industries with its full of our products, with numerous advantages but quality Aerosol manufacturer range of aerosol and wipes respect to an Indian apparel also is efficient in working as a since 1947, Sprayway USA products. Today, Sprayway manufacturer,” says Vasant single spray remains effective situated in Chicago, Illinois, is products have already been Bhat, Country Manager – for a minimum period of 6-8 very proud to help, strongly sold and used in more than 80 Sprayway India. hours,” adds Vasant. service and support as many countries with much success.

India: Marcodie registers success with the new MD Sigma linear screen printing machine

ith a strong legacy in Marcodie says that the success machine’s capacity as per the one may get as many modules Wthe field of screen and is due to the innovative path user’s requirement, has given as your printing technology digital printing, Austria-based breaking linear screen printing us the definite edge from our needs. Modules can contain Marcodie has in a short period machine MD Sigma. “Apart competitors,” avers Babu. printing heads as well as of time captured substantial from the presence of various The machine is equipped dummy stations. share in the booming features like single blade with innovative Single Blade “We are getting more and more Indian printing scene. system, squeegee pressure System which claims of enquiries for the machines, Speaking exclusively to Team regulator, flood/speed printing up to 95% of the from north and south regions StitchWorld, Lenin George control and ultra-light pallets, screen size. The machine has alike. We are installing in Babu, Regional Sales Manager, the ability to expand the 100% flat,ultra-light pallets prominent companies, Sunlight which are extremely solid Group is one such example,” and heat resistant. The multi- informs Babu. functional touch panel is Founded by two professional chemical resistant and easy to engineers Dietmar Poetscher handle, and accepts finger tip (Didi) & Marco Hofbauer, commands. The machine also Marcodie has an unbeatable has a front and rear micro- experience and undisputable registration system which is background in the field of movable in all directions. The screen and digital printing and machine can print image of is committed to providing high 60 cm x 95 cm and has the quality and robust products to production capacity of 1200 the industries and customers (L-R) Marco Hofbauer, CEO, Marcodie; Dong Jin Kang, Managing Director, pieces per hour. MD Sigma is demanding high standards and Batee Design - Marcodie's Indian Reprsentative; Lenin George Babu, Regional Sales Manager, Marcodie; and Dietmar Poetscher, CEO, Marcodie; unlimitedly expandable, and value for money.

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News Track

India: Grafica’s Nano-prinTex the world’s first India: Texperts brings Green Project all-electrical-mechanical line of automatic Water Saving Technology for Indian textile printers Apparel & Textile Industry

reen Project W.S.T. Ltd., Bangladesh is one of the Gmost recently established organizations which helps optimize garments, steam, compressed air and electrical energy savings in the dyeing processes. Addressing the complexity of the entire value chain, from the fibre & to the readymade garments, W.S.T. (Water Saving Technology) is represented in India by Texperts, an international textile sourcing and marketing organization. With the vision of saving water and aiming at sustainable factories with minimal cost, W.S.T.’s implementation of the technology in textile

industry to save water has been accepted by Hanish Mehta, GM Sales, Grafica Flextronica (2nd from left) with his team Clean Development Mechanism (CDM) under the administration of PEAR Carbon Offset and the rafica Flextronica, prinTex has been meticulously company is going to conduct their examination in Gwith a state-of-the- designed with the inner working art manufacturing facility of the printing operations along with a fully equipped exceptionally simplified, fast educational and training and extremely easy to operate. centre (DMI) located at Vasai in The touch screen panel is kept Thane district, is emerging as a simple to let the operator company to be reckoned with follow easy steps with clear for screen printing technology. legible icons for easier non- Overwhelmed by the response language comprehension, so to its Nano-prinTex (DTG textile that nothing is overlooked or screen printing machine) in 6, 8, compromised. The machine has 10 and 12 colours along with a higher image to frame ratio necessary drying equipment which considerably enhances the print quality for more exact Dr. Wolfram Engel, President & CEO, Green Project WST such as Nano-Texdryer (compact (centre) and Sharad Sanghai, Director, Texperts (extreme right), electric dryer) and Nano- reproduction. Also available is with their team FlashTex (an intelligent flash an index system manufactured curing system), along with using CNC laser-cutting Bangladesh at Grameen Knitwear Ltd. and Landmark the ever popular Nano-Screen technology to achieve perfect Fabrics Ltd., two leading textile manufacturers in Maker 5-in-1, a complete in- repetition accuracy of each Bangladesh that are exercising Green Project with pallet without the burden and house screen making solution W.S.T.’s technology to save water and energy. “For complications of unnecessary aimed at inculcating quality all dyeing houses in the world now, water saving is expensive servo drives. The culture among garment printers, not an option, it is a must!” exerts Sharad Sanghai, high quality pressure-die cast Hanish Mehta, GM Sales, Grafica Director, Texperts. aluminium squeegee head Flextronica says, “When it comes The focus on the company’s program is on the use provides exceptional rigidity to implementation and service, of water-efficient dyes and chemicals, and also and strength for constant we are amongst the few who educating the organization on water conversation. dependability. Micro registration provide on-site as well as off-site “By only selecting the right kind of chemicals and system is available for screen training to our customers, which dyestuff, 50% of the water consumption can be frame movement with reference is a 3-day workshop organized reduced; moreover if one starts working as per mark and locking device. Fully at our DMI institute within the international standards a further reduction of 70% hardened WPS steel cams are premises of Grafica’s factory.” in the water consumption can be achieved. Our used for index movement to minimum target is to reduce the consumption Grafica claims that Nano-prinTex maintain consistent repetition of water for one T-shirt from 25 litres to 10 litres,” is the world’s first all-electrical- accuracy and to achieve perfect explains Sharad. mechanical line of automatic registration, thereby reducing textile printers. The Nano- wear and tear.

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News Track

India: Stage ERP – a veteran solution, developed exclusively for garment industry India: S Roque brings a premier printing solution with RoqPrint Basic No other software in the very close to ISO Standards as “market provides the level of industry’s best practices are integration between various incorporated in the software. departments as well as we Stage ERP is a comprehensive do,” says APS Velu, Director – solution which has industry Business Development, Ecotech right modules namely, Costing, Software Pvt. Ltd., in reference Order Entry, Production to its Stage ERP, which has Planning, Process Planning been specially designed for (BOM), Purchase, Inventory, the apparel & textile industry. Packing, Documentation, T & A, Velu, a veteran of the apparel Accounts, Payroll, Sampling, MIS industry and having more Reporting and Retail. It ensures than 17 years of experience transparency of information with an illustrious clientele across the enterprise with (L-R) Franscisco Oliveira, Chemical Engineer & Sales Manager, Ventil Aqua; Ramesh Ganduri of Spoorthi says, “We are being used by privilege of access. Automatic Technologies; and Jorge Fernandes, Export Manager – leading garment manufacturers BOM can be generated from Europe, Asia & Africa, S Roque to streamline business and garment specification and raw integrate information across material calculation for work ortuguese pioneer S Roque has been offering departments. Our system is orders to units/vendors is also Pprinting equipment for the textile industries, successfully implemented in done automatically. Orders making its mark in the Indian market with prominent companies like K-Tex, can be consolidated in terms the help of its innovation, the RoqPrint Basic automatic direct-to-garment screen printing machine. The machine ensures quality of printing while keeping the whole process cost-effective and it comes with 16 colours and 18 honeycomb aluminium pallets. The squeegees work with pneumatic or electric movement on every print-head. One can assign individual command functions on all print-heads through a central command LCD screen. Print-heads have a high-lift position for quick and easy frame cleaning. The machine has individual print and flood controls for speed, height, angle and stroke length. The machine comes in 6 variants, two M and 4 XL models. Maximum print area is 16’’ x 20’’ (M) / APS Velu, Director – Business Development, Ecotech Software Pvt. Ltd. 20’’ x 28’’ (XL) and maximum production pieces (3rd from left) with his team per hour are1050 (M) / 1000 (XL). The machine comes with the option of a laser marker and Laguna, Raymond’s, Pantaloons, of destination, category, and choice of pneumatic screen holder – U-clamp and by even Vardhman Textiles assortment.The software or systems. It is also compatible with in the north.” ensures integration from vacuum suction pallets, and available in 8 to 18 The success of Stage ERP is inventory, imports, exports and carousel options. payroll to financial accounts. because of its ability to handle “The machines have got a very good response all kinds of manufacturing units, Software also generates time from the industry both in the north and the south from woven and knit apparel and action/alarm to prompt user regions, and the E Roque printers are installed in manufacturing to fabric units activities. It even shoots auto- companies like Eastman Exports and AKR Textiles to spinning facilities, as well generated emails to relevant to name a few,” says Ramesh Ganduri of Spoorthi as manufacturing persons for amendments to Technologies, the Indian representative of the units, and it takes the shortest orders and specification. It may company. The company produces and markets 13 time to implement in the also perform capacity planning different products, and serves customers all over entire facility. Ecotech claims for factories. The data on the the world. that implementing Stage software is efficiently secured would bring the organization and cannot be hacked.

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News Track

India: Hi Tech Sewing Systems – The preferred complete apparel manufacturing solutions provider

i-Tech Sewing Systems Director, Hi-Tech Sewing His a proficient machine Systems. A significant part of solutions provider, managed the net earnings of Hi-Tech by a team of experienced is spent on developing some engineers and focused of the most modern facilities towards providing its clients to impart training in the a one-stop-solution for all areas of CAD/CAM, industrial kinds of machinery. The sewing machines and company represents some productivity equipment. of the best brands like Kesavamoorthy, overwhelmed Winda, Pegasus, Brother, by the response from the Kansai Special, Max, Hugo industry added, “Slowly Max, Ricoma, Salli, Cornely the industry is improving Barotta, etc. Hi-Tech provides and with time we are also solutions for all aspects of increasing our product manufacturing including range as per the day-to-day S. Kesavamoorthy, Managing Director, Hi-Tech Sewing Systems (extreme right) with his team cutting room, sewing areas, response.” The company is finishing, storage and vigilant in providing optimum transport systems, material after-sale-service and has a saves a lot of time in pattern It has an optimized design, dedicated staff of 15 people handling, spares, services, automation functions, higher rotational speed, and to cater to the same.With training, etc. “The company like automatic pattern an ergonomically-designed reference to the competition is dealing in automated making, automatic grading, model meant for easier and in the market, Kesavamoorthy machines only with the automatic sleeve, patch comfortable operations. states, “Our service and aim of minimizing cost and etc. The system ensures The machine has a totally growing product range are labour. The CAD/CAM systems that the job becomes easy, enclosed type direct-drive our strength.” from Winda are among the yet free of any mistakes. needle bar which puts an products that the company is Winda is an intelligent Winda CAD system boasts end to the dust invasion looking forward to sell,” avers pattern design system with the efficiency by 100-200%, and oil leakage and reduces S Kesavamoorthy, Managing user-friendly tools which claims Kesavamoorthy. the abrasive damage. The Winda 3D fashion and textile machine in this series are design software is another equipped with the up-to- A significant part of the net earnings of intelligent product from date patented presser foot Hi-Tech, for menswear, kids whose independent fabric Hi-Tech is spent on developing some of the wear, innerwear and home hold-down piece can be most modern facilities to impart training textile designing, and can adjusted as per the changes in the areas of CAD/CAM, industrial sewing perform functions like 3D in cup-seaming width so machines and productivity equipment. style design, sketch design, that the edge curling can technical sheet design, fabric be effectively avoided design, draping, etc. during high-speed sewing The other machine that operations.The machine is Hi-Tech has bought to the also equipped with an HR market is the super high- silicone oil device which speed overlock sewing can effectively reduce the machine 900 series which needle temperature and has recently been developed a forced oil return device by Zoje Sewing Machine to avoid oil leakage.The Co. with several self-owned machines of this series national patents. The run at the maximum RPM The Winda pattern cutting machine is one of the most machine is apt at overlap of 8500 and are available sought-after product from and ornamental stitches on in 14 models, along Hi-Tech various types of knits, woven, with numerous optional denim and home furnishing. attachments.

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News Track

India: Angel India gears up to face Apparel and Textile Sector with its range of cutting plotters and laser engraving solutions...

ince 2005, Angel India from providing the tested industry but its Shas been engaged in solutions, our effective after- cutting plotters importing, supplying and sales-support ensures trouble- and laser engraving trading a wide assortment free functioning through a equipments require of imaging and printing setup of a wide network of special mention. solutions. “The products distributors and engineers, FC4500 and FC2250 offered by the company have which is much appreciated by models are two been chosen for its durability, the industry,” says Anil. flatbed cutting accuracy and functionality,” plotters from The company, which has says Anil Kumar, Director, Graphtec, suitable for earned a good name in the Angel India CAD CAM Pvt. plotting and cutting advertising industry as a Ltd. The wide range of laser paper patterns and supplier of quality solutions, engravers, cutting solutions, for prototyping or marking solutions, printers, is now eyeing apparel and small production scanners, flat bed cutting leather sector as a dealer for runs in rigid materials plotters provided for the Mimaki textile inkjet printer, such as polyamide, apparel industry are first Graphtec cutting plotters and cardboard, micro tested for their performance GCC laser engraver machines. flute board. The qualities in the company’s All the three companies are plotter can cut at in-house testing facility.“Apart well known names in the maximum speed of 750 mm/sec. FC2250 Anil Kumar, Director, Angel India series is an advanced model CAD CAM Pvt. Ltd. with wide tool line up such as vacuum suction device, Patented SmartACT motion electrostatic adhesion and control technology allows laser magnetic sheet. Both the to fire steadily and travels fast, models come with plug-in enabling the working object software – cutting master2, to receive consistent levels of which allows direct cutting laser power output. With this from graphic applications. innovative function, users will D-cut master software is significantly save job running available as an option in time and boost productivity. FC4500 and FC4510 for easy Other features include a and accurate cutting of pre- control panel with graphic icon printed images with varied display that allows the user functions such as setting up to change laser parameters of the cut sequence, deleting, and manage various jobs by sorting, etc. prioritising them. Laser engraver is the other Maintaining a growth rate of most talked about machine 15-20% from past few years, from Angel India. GCC Angel India has more than LaserPro Spirit GLS is one 100 clients from apparel of the most advanced laser industry which fills them with engraver with the extra large optimism.“I can say from my working area of 38” x 24”. QSM experience that this industry (Quality Speed Mode) helps in has to replace its conventional maintaining 100% engraving methods to grow further. quality while operating at the Indian textile market is so maximum speed. The machine big that everybody has an structure has convenient opportunity to enter this pass through front and rear field, one has just to tap the doors to accommodate long customers to get business,” working pieces with ease. says Anil.

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Tech Review

Cost-effective and versatile interlock machines from Megasew Looking for a dealer for the Indian market

egasew, from Ming-Jang MGroup, a professional industrial sewing machine brand from Taiwan established in 2005, pays high attention to all possible requirements of a sewing operator while pursuing its sustainable policies in making energy- The MJ62GX (GXD), is the first MJ2600SD-356/EWT, is the efficient machines. They flat seaming machine patented first small cylinder bed interlock have earned the reputation with dual differential ratio machine with left side fabric of making their machines feeding trimmer user-friendly and maintaining quality of the feeding by the company normal clutch motor. Even machine for which claims that all the design of the needle minimum other brands have Single clamp is patented making it downtime. differential ratio feeding easier to clean and less prone “As a result, of only. In a Single differential to damage. various man- feed system, the gap MJ2600SD-356/EWT from management between the front and Megasew is the first small initiatives rear feed dog changes cylinder bed interlock we have with changing differential machine in the global market more than 40 feed ratio, increasing the with left side fabric trimmer. world patents possibility that in the highest The company boasts of on new gap setting of differential cylinder circumference as less designs and feed ratio system, the light as 250 mm and claims it to be technology in fabrics may easily wrinkle smaller than that of the rival our company’s as it is difficult to cross the models which is between name,” says thick seams. Whereas, in a 265 mm to 270 mm. Distance James Huang, Dual differential feed ratio from the middle needle drop Owner mechanism, the front and point to the left side of the of brand rear feed dog is so adjusted cylinder is only 41 mm. This Megasew. that the gap between them is a premium advantage for The company always remains the same. small tubular cover stitching is a leading Therefore, the feeding is operations and the fabric James Huang, Owner, Megasew manufacturer comparatively smooth, can be easily handled to of highly giving no chance of light perform a perfect seam even robust 4 needle flat seaming fabrics getting wrinkled in sewing kids wear or small machine, and interlock down or crossover seams tubular work. stitch machine for knitwear getting stuck between two The patented electric foot garments. “All machines, . lifter design works more motor, stands, and table are The machine is a 4 needle efficiently and is more completely made in Taiwan 6 thread feed of the arm durable. Also the built-in to ensure quality standards,” interlock flat seaming LED effectively lights up informs Huang. While the machine with 4200 RPM. the sewing area and saves company has a huge presence It has a special design for energy. A 3 needle 4 thread in Bangladesh, they are now patented hidden oil sealed machine with an RPM of eyeing the Indian market, and container to prevent oil 4500, also has a built-in looking for a dealer. leakage from the needle direct-drive computerized The MJ62GX (GXD) series bar. The design of the motor motor. Different attachment of the brand is the first flat base is of dual purpose and options of electric or seaming machine patented it is changeable between pneumatic thread trimmers with Dual differential ratio mini servo motor and are also available.

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Forthcoming Events

TRADE FAIR/TRADE SHOW Screen Print India GTE (Garment Technology Expo) Inkjet Forum India – 3rd Date: 5th to 7th September 2012 Date: 1st to 4th March 2013 International Inkjet Conference Venue: Mumbai, India Venue: New Delhi, India Date: 29th-30th November 2012 Website: http://www.screenprintindia.com Website: http://www. Venue: Mumbai, India Brief: Screen Print India Exhibition is an garmentechnologyexpo.com Website: http://www.inkjetforumindia.com international level exhibition held biennially Brief: Garment Technology Expo- Brief: Inkjet India 2012 will be the first since 1994. The primary objective of this Delhi 2013 International aims to offer a ever exclusive Digital Textile Conference exhibition is to promote the screen printing complete sourcing platform to apparel in India. It will focus on both commercial industry by arranging an interface between manufacturers. The exhibition will focus and technical topics to examine the all segments within India and across the on a wide range of garment machinery, market potential and challenges in this globe. The exhibition has evolved over the accessories and support services from sector. The conference will cover various last two decades and the 2012 edition will India and different parts of the world. aspects of digital textile printing including be the 10th in the series. Latest technology, live demonstrations, equipments, inks, fabrics, pre/post new products launches and technical processes and industry experience. JIAM (Japan International seminars will be an integral part of Apparel Machinery Trade Show) the show. The exhibition provides an TAI to hold 10th International & Date: 19th to 22nd September 2012 interface between the industry 68th All India Textile Conference Venue: Osaka, Japan members and technology providers Date: 1st December 2012 Website: http://jiam2012.com/us/ in all segments. Venue: Mumbai, India Brief: A celebrated exhibition of Website: www.textileassociationindia.org international apparel machinery, the Japan Texprocess Brief: The Textile Association of India International Apparel Machinery Trade Date: 11th to 14th June 2013 (TAI), Mumbai Unit and TAI, Central Show (JIAM) has been held every three Venue: Frankfurt, Germany Office will jointly hold the All India Textile years since 1984 to considerable acclaim Website: http://texprocess.messefrankfurt. Conference 2012. Under the theme “World from industry participants around the com Textiles – Challenges towards excellence”, world. The past nine shows have been Brief: Texprocess is a 4-day show for the meet will discuss topics like Textile a great success, showcasing the latest processing textile and flexible materials. business potentials of BRIC regions and Being hosted by Messe Frankfurt machinery from leading manufacturers in possibilities of trading in local currencies; Exhibition GmbH at Frankfurt Exhibition Japan and elsewhere. This time the theme Textile business in Asian countries; Grounds, Germany, the show is directed zone is “Japan Quality Unit”. Financials– Banks & Institutional support towards providing a single most platform for textile projects; Environmental issues & for showcasing automation technology International Textile Machinery overcoming these regulations; Innovation for the garment and textile processing Exhibition in textile machinery; Textile operation/ industries, CAD/CAM, information Date: 2nd to 7th December 2012 process with unconventional energy technology, cutting, design and product Venue: Mumbai, India sources; Development potential in non development, distribution logistics and Website: http://www.india-itme.com apparel sector among others. many more. Brief: This year ITME is showcasing textile technology, machinery, FICCI-TAG 2012 Conference accessories and services by 620 SEMINAR/WORKSHOP Date: 10th December 2012 exhibitors from 42 countries and with Venue: Mumbai, India 1,00,000 visitors expected. It is the 9th SDC India & NIFT, Mumbai Website: http://www.ficci.com India International Textile Machinery Date & Time: 12th September 2012, Brief: Key stakeholders of the Apparel & Exhibition. Venue: NIFT Campus, Kharghar, Navi Textile Industry will be seen together and Mumbai. sharing their views and experiences on Garmentech Website: www.sdc.org.in important subjects at the FICCI-TAG 2012 Date: 16th to 19th January 2013 Brief: The Society of Dyers & Colourists Conference. With the theme, “Thriving in Venue: Dhaka, Bangladesh (SDC) India, in association with National the Era of Constant Change: Challenges Website: www.garmentechdhaka.com Institute of Fashion Technology, will In Textile & Apparel Industry”, the Brief: Being organized by Zakaria Trade hold the lecture in its ‘Monthly Lecture discussion will focus on addressing issues & Fair International, Garmentech 2013 Series’ on“Removing time complexity such as trends in fibre demand, innovation will be the 12th edition of the session in textile supply chain”, addressed by in products and machinery, sourcing and the most comprehensive technology Ms.Rajeshree Netalkar,and intends to strategies, building efficient supply trade show for the apparel industry in help the audience understand the ‘Textile chain, etc. Alok Industries is a partner Bangladesh. Supply Chain’. for this event.

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Tech Event

Poland: Sharda Group India: EH Turel & Co. concludes ‘Bellary Jeans Tech organizing India Expo in 2012’at a high note

Poland ellary, a mini-Bangladesh harda Group, a Bhilwara based Bin denim jeans was the Sintegrated textile company, target of EH Turel & Co., spinning as well as weaving the agent for Vibemac and Pfaff, when they recently fabric and manufacturing made- organized the ‘Bellary Jeans ups and garments, is looking at Tech 2012’ show in Bellary, promoting businesses in Poland. The Karnataka. The industry company in association with Lodz even being small, with International Fair will organize “India smaller setups between 2 to Expo” Fair from 24th to 27th April 10 machines reacted very 2013. This is the first event in Poland Viraf Turel of EH Turel & Company (2nd from left) with Veeru positively to see the latest Maknur of Vibemac India (3rd from left) intracting with visitors that will present full-scale offer to sewing technologies for the Indian products to this country. specific applications, which Being small does have many with a bank to partner their “In four days’ event, three days would they never thought would challenges and biggest is private exhibition to sanction be dedicated to B2B transactions be possible. “It was like a the arrangement of finance small loans. “We had an and the last day would be for fission reaction, an operator Even though the hunger for amazing show,” he added. promotion of Indian tourism, cultural would take permission from new machines was there, “This experiment of educating and cuisine,” shares Amit Lath, CEO us to call his friends to make they could only see and various small-small apparel & Managing Partner, Sharda Group them see and appreciate the admire the innovations. To manufacturing hubs will of Companies & Sharda Europe Co. best,” said Viraf Turel of EH address the issue, Viraf Turel continue in all parts of the Ltd. – Poland,. Turel & Company. made special arrangements country,” concluded Viraf Turel.

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