~ I WA~RJ"'~A.H St-\l~ 'HER.I~E 'S.Tf..>O'-I I HISTcg..'1 ~ A~CHA.C=:OLOG."'" I ,I I I I I .. I ,I

, , I . ". il 1I I I, I I I I;. ( ,I ~ WENDY THORP I Consultant Archaeologist 78 Australia St, .1 Camperdown 2050 Ph (02) 516 3381 I

I HISTORICAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL RESOURCE OF WARRINGAH SHIRE I for THE WARRINGAH SHIRE HERITAGE STUDY

I May 1988 I .1 .1 I I I I I .1 I I 'I L ,- I I INDEX

1.0 Preface to the Report 1 I 1.1 Parameters of the study Area 1 1.2 Initiative for Study 1 1.3 Obj ectives 1 I 1.4 Methodology 1 2.0 The Geographic Pattern of Sett1ement 3 2.1 Phase I 1788 - 1880 4 2.2 Phase 11 1880 - 1920 5 I 2.3 Phase III 1920 - 1950 7 2.4 Phase IV 1950 - 1988.....•...... 8 2.5 Conelusions 9 I 3.0 The Development of the Built Environment 11 3.1 Phase I 1788 - 1880 12 3.2 Phase 11 1880 - 1920 13 3.3 Phase III 1920 - 1950 13 I 3.4 Phase IV 1950 - 1988...... •.....•...... 14 3.5 Conelusions 15 4.0 The Development Mode1 ...... •...... 17 I 4.1 Factors Influencing the Survival of Archaeological Sites 18 4.2 The Data Base...... •.20 4.3 The Model 21 I 4.4 Conelusions 23 5.0 The Survey 24 5.1 Early Nineteenth Century Evidence....•...... 25 I 5.2 Later Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Century Evidence 25 5.3 Later Twentieth Century Evidence...... •...... 25 5.4 Conelusions...... •.. 25 I 5.5 Implications for Management P1anning 25 I I I I I I ,I I I I I 1

I 1.0 PREFACE

I 1.1 PARAMETERS OF THE STUDY This study is concerned with the land encompassed by Barrenjoey to the north, the Pacific Ocean to the I east, Pittwater to the west and an artificial boundary on the south which approximately follows the lines of Mona Vale Road, Vineyard street, Samuel I Street, Cabbage Tree Road, Torumba Avenue, Gilwanga Drive and McCarrs Creek Road. Scotland Island is also included in the study area as are a number of I parcels of land on the western shore of Pittwater. I 1.2 INITIATIVE FOR STUDY This study is one component of a heritage study being undertaken for the Warringah Shire Council by I Brian McDonald Architect Pty Ltd. I 1.3 OBJECTIVES Three major objectives have been defined for this work. 'These are: I 1.3.1 To define a predictive development model for the study area. I 1.3.2 To assess the archaeological potential of the study area. 1.3.3 To survey the study area both as a means of testing I the predictive model and to record any archaeological sites located during the work. I 1.4 METHODOLOGY The development of the area has been defined in the I separate archival analysis. Detailed site survey was not considered to be a viable tool for the heritage study. This is common to all heritage studies. I Instead, a predictive model based on the historical development of the area, as defined from the archival resource, has been prepared. This outlines areas of potential archaeological significance. The I site survey was used to test this model as well as to investigate specific sites referred to in I historical literature. The archaeology of standing buildings is not a I feature of this report. It is considered that any I I I I 2

I extant nineteenth century buildings have the potential to provide important archaeological data i£ properly investigated as do many twentieth I century structures. I I I I I ,I I I I I I I I I I I I I1 I 3

I 2.0 THE GEOGRAPHIC PATTERN OF SETTLEMENT 1788 - 1988

I Within this section the chronological periods of settlement, defined in the historical analysis, are considered in terms of a geographic pattern. This analysis determines where the earliest impact of the I built environment has occurred and where successive phases of activity have developed. The site types associated with this pattern are discussed in the I succeeding section. The historical phases used in this discussion are as I follows: Phase I: 1788 - 1880 I Settlement and Consolidation Phase II: 1880 - 1920 The Influence of the Real Estate Ventures I -A Resort for the Wealthy Phase Ill: 1920 - 1950 I Holiday and Recreation Phase IV: 1950 - 1988 I A Commuter Suburb - Exclusivity I I I I I I I I I I ------_.~.. _-_. --- I I 4

I 2.1 PHASE I: 1788 - 1880 I SETTLEMENT AND CONSOLIDATION The study area was discovered and initially explored during the earliest months of European settlement in I Australia. However it was not settled until some years later, the beginning of the nineteenth century. Earliest settlement appears to have begun I in the northern portion of the study area, to take advantage of the Hawkesbury River/Green Hills trade. At least one farmer was located at Barrenjoey by 1808. Soon after, settlement had spread to the I southern portions of the study area and Scotland Island. I All early settlement was defined by the constraints of the landscape. Steep slopes and small areas of arable soil limited agrarian based settlement to the lower slopes which could be cleared for farming and I grazing. Exploitation of the natural resources also played a factor in the pattern of early settlement. For example, Thompson's holdings on Scotland Island I exploited the maritime surroundings to establish a boat-building business and salt works. Until the later years of the century the I inter-related problems of topography and transportation precluded intensive settlement in the district. Large grants were made, for example I Napper's and Therry's which, when combined, encompassed most of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. But settlement on these was sparse. In 1861 it was said of the district that "farms were few and far I between" . By the later years of this phase settlement, along I with communications, had spread out and improved. Land in Mona Vale,'McCarrs Creek, Lovatt Bay and Church Point was settled in small, isolated pockets. I Roads had been established, steamers took people to Newport and a post office and telegram station had been established. However, the distance, difficulty of access, lawlessness and uncertainty of the I district combined to retard settlement and confine it to those small pockets of agriculture established during the early years of the phase and the tiny I proto-urban centres established during the latter. I I I 'I I ~--~------~------I 5

I 2.2 PHASE II: 1880 - 1920 I THE INFLUENCE OF THE REAL ESTATE VENTURES - A RESORT FOR THE WEALTHY I During the last decades of the nineteenth century more land on the peninsula was developed for settlement but population still remained low I density. Additional land at McCarrs Creek, Towlers Bay, Lovatt Bay and Church Point (all established areas of settlement) was granted .and large estates I were surveyed and offered for sale at Careel Bay and Bay View. Earlier grants, including Therry's and Napper's, were sold and subdivided. I However, the problems of communication experienced during the preceding phase continued to hamper intensive settlement. Only at places where regular I transportation was available, primarily Newport, did some form of development take place and this remained low key as visitation was seasonal. I. At the turn of the century it could be said that the greater areas of settlement were towards the southern portion of the study area. The slight I growth here was encouraged by the tourist trade and the availability of transport for local residents. During the early years of the twentieth century this I situation was nearly reversed. The land speculation of these years at first focused on the northern area around Palm Beach. After a slow start land sales I escalated and houses and cottages for the wealthy were developed on places such as Sunrise Hill and "Pill Hill". But land in this location was, at that time, only for the wealthy through a combination of I circumstances mainly devolving, again, on the restrictions of transportation. The resultant settlement, therefore, while luxurious, remained I spaciously arranged. Following the success of the speculation at Palm Beach later sales encompassed land further south I along the peninsula; Whale beach, Newport, Mona Vale and Church Point. A similar socio-economic and spatial pattern of development occurred in these I subdivisions. A feature of this phase of development was the move away from the lower slopes to the steeper areas where spectacular views could be I exploited of the Ocean and Pittwater. By the end of this phase settlement in the peninsula I had escalated and moved out of the confines of I I I I 6

I nineteenth century development. Land over most of the study area was alienated and development occurred higher on the plateaux than had been I feasible for earlier settlers. However the constraints imposed by the terrain and transport ensured that, while settlement was more widespread than in the preceding phase, it was selective and I still relatively low key. I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 7

I 2.3 PHASE III: 1920 - 1950 I HOLIDAY AND RECREATION The developments of this phase changed the direction of development within the study area and opened up I new areas of land for more intensive settlement. The early years of this phase experienced a housing boom and land all over the peninsula was subdivided and I offered for sale to prospective home owners. However, although transportation had considerably improved by this time, it was still not reliable or far-reaching enough to support commuter traffic from I the peninsula to the city. Hence the area developed primarily for week-end and holiday traffic.

During the 1920s land was subdivided and sold at I Ocean Beach, Whale Beach, Avalon, Soldiers Point, Taylors Point, Bilgola, Careel Bay, Great Mackerel Beach, Newport, Bungan Head, Sand Point, Scotland I Island and Church Point. It could be said that, at this point, the entire study area had been alienated although the steeper areas still precluded most I building activity. The Depression put an end to this phase of development which had been characterized, still, mainly by more affluent land buyers.

I After the depression years settlement of the entire study area resumed but with the emphasis on holiday cottage and retirement house construction. This I followed the established patterns of subdivision but the growth of the small towns such as Newport and Mona Vale is particularly evident in these later years. Community facilities were established around I these centres to support the growing established and transient population. I I I I I I I I I I 8

I 2.4 PHASE IV: 1950 - 1988 I A COMMUTER SUBURB - EXCLUSIVITY The development of the study area during this final phase has been both enormous and all encompassing. I With the provision of reliable and far-reaching transportation systems the area became a viable commuter suburb for Sydney. However, the I desirability of these beach side locations in tandem with their availability to the city has now made the area, once again, an exclusive residential area.

I From the 1950s all areas of the district have rapidly increased their residential population and support facilities and conveniences. Housing stock I has escalated and can now, for a price, take advantage of all possible building sites. Latest land subdivision has taken place on the steep heights. Along with houses the towns have grown to I include retail, small business and some industrial concerns. There are few areas on the peninsula that I do not support high density settlement. I I I I I I I I I I I ! I

I 9 I 2.5 CONCLUSIONS Settlement in the study area commenced at the I beginning of the nineteenth century although the area had been partially explored in 1788 and the succeeding years of the eighteenth century. Initial I settlement was established in the northern portion of the district to take advantage of the Hawkesbury and Green Hills trade. Soon after settlement was established in the southern portion with large I grants encompassing the intervening land. All early settlement was constrained by the I landscape. Small areas of arable land occurred only at the base of the slopes; these could be cleared for farming or grazing. Exploitation of natural resources also played a role in the development and I location of early settlement. The difficulty of the terrain and the problems of I transportation constrained settlement in the area throughout the remainder of the nineteenth century. Additional land was granted in areas such as Church Point and McCarrs Creek but it evolved in small I isolated pockets. The establishment of more and better communications during the later years of this century encouraged the growth of proto-urban centres I and supported the small isolated settlements. Most of these were centred in the southern portion of the study area at the limits of available I transportation. During the early years of the twentieth century the settlement pattern nearly reversed as land I speculation around Palm Beach encouraged settlement in the north. This was generally confined to affluent buyers who could afford both the transportation and a second home. The success of I these sales encouraged further land speculation and land from Palm Beach to Church Point was subdivided. The higher slopes in these areas commenced I development at this time as the spectacular views of Pittwater and the ocean were exploited. By 1920 subdivision in the district had alienated most land I but it was selective and still relatively low key. During the middle years of the twentieth century, after the Depression, increased transportation made I the area viable for week-end trips and holidays for the less affluent. The land sales occasioned by this development completed the alienation of the land although the steeper areas precluded extensive I development. The growth of small towns during this period is particularly noticeable. I The post-war years were characterized by massive and I I I I 10

I extensive development within the study area. The improved links with the city have meant that the peninsula is now a viable, if exclusive, commuter I suburb. The developments of the final years have been all encompassing and have included greatly increased housing stock, facilities, retail and I industrial developments. I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 11

I 3.0 THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE BUILT ENVIRONMENT

I Each of the historical phases of development has been accompanied by particular developments in the built environment often typified by particular types of sites. These types are discussed in this section, I again according to the chronological phases of development. I I 'I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 12

I 3.1 PHASE I: 1788 - 1880 I SETTLEMENT AND CONSOLIDATION Phase I settlement, for most of its duration, was characterized by small farming concerns. The most I permanent of these establishments, for example Mona Vale Farm, comprised a solid timber main house and out-buildings, including barns and stables. Other, less affluent, establishments were described as I huts, mainly slab and bark. Thompson's establishment on Scotland Island appears to have been the most extensive with houses for himself and his labourers, I other out-buildings and industrial works. By the 1860s most of these early dwellings appear to have fallen into decay. Later houses, such as Bilgola House, were more sophisticated in their style and I techniques but were still classified as cottages. The longest survivor of this site type was the I Customs House group, timber houses which survived until 1976 at which time they burnt down. The community facilities established during this early period were also reasonably ephemeral. For example, I the first churches were constructed in timber.

A number of industrial sites were established during I this phase. In particular, Thompson's boat building and salt works appear to have been extensive although there are no contemporary accounts describing them. Some evidence of these sites was I visible at the beginning of the twentieth century.

Other industrial endeavours were less substantial. I The shell gatherers left little evidence of their work except the houses in which they lived and by the later years of the nineteenth century these had disappeared. The Chinese community of fishermen at I Barrenjoey appear to have mainly used tents for the shelter required by their enterprise. I The most substantial building endeavour of this phase was the construction of the stone light-house I on Barrenjoey headland. I I I I I I I 13

I 3.2 PHASE II: 1880 - 1920 I THE INFLUENCE OF THE REAL ESTATE VENTURES -A RESORT FOR THE WEALTHY

I The most obvious effect of this phase was the increase in permanent and well constructed building stock. In particular, housing benefited from this I trend. Expensive mansions located on the new housing subdivisions are typical of this period. Apart from these, new types appeared such as boarding houses, shops and hotels at public transportation termini I such as Newport and Mona Vale. Post offices and schools were also established in greater numbers during this phase. A new stone church replaced the I earlier timber st John the Baptist church. The effect of increased visitation and settlement was also evidenced in the establishment of better I roads, retaining walls and, in particular, jetties 1I both private and for public transport.

3.3 PHASE Ill: 1920 - 1950

I HOLIDAY AND RECREATION

I During this phase all the symbols of suburban development began to appear in the landscape as more people came to settle and tourism created demands for more facilities. The typical building type of I this phase was the simple, unpretentious holiday cottage and week-ender, often fibro. In addition more hotels, guest houses and restaurants were I established to cater for the tourist trade as well as retail outlets and services such as real estate agents and garages. More symbols of community development such as churches, post offices and I schools were built.

This phase is also noteworthy for the development of I recreational facilities, for example Council constructed swimming baths, yacht clubs, bowling clubs and surf clubs. Historical monuments, obelisks I and plaques were also erected during this phase. I I I I I ~-~------~~~. -_._._~._ .. - I 14

I 3.4 PHASE IV: 1950 - 1988 I A COMMUTER SUBURB - EXCLUSIVITY The trends in the development of the built environment begun during the preceding phase I culminated during this period. Housing stock escalated with new types appearing, the middle class suburban home and unit development. The current I equivalent of the 1920s mansions have also been added to the landscape. I The community facilities begun in the preceding phase were extensively added to during this period with more schools, post offices, retail outlets (including shopping centres), garages, recreational I facilities, small industries and a hospital being constructed for the increased population. Roads have been extended and improved. However, . during this I period accidental and planned destruction of earlier sites has become a feature. I I I I I I I I I I I I ------I I 15

I 3.5 CONCLUSIONS

Earliest settlement of the study area was I characterized by small farming concerns, generally slab or other timber construction. These varied in size and complexity according to the wealth of the I owner and the functions undertaken at the property. By the l860s most of these early establishments had begun to fall into decay. The longest survivor of I this group was the Customs House group which survived until 1976. Houses from the later nineteenth century were more I sophisticated in style and technique than their earlier counterparts but, in general, they were at best cottages. Few industrial enterprises of these I years left many traces past their lifespan. Thompson' s salt works on Scotland Island are said to have left visible remains until the turn of the century but this was the exception rather than the I rule. Most industries required little support structures. The most substantial structure from this phase was the stone light-house constructed on I Barrenjoey headland. During the later decades of the nineteenth century and early years of the twentieth century housing I stock dramatically increased both in numbers and style. Mansions built for the wealthy to use as week-enders appeared along the beaches, particularly I Palm Beach. In addition, support facilities for the new settlers and tourists appeared such as guest houses, restaurants, schools, posts offices and churches. Roads, wharves and jetties were built to I aid communication to and within the district. The Depression ended the great phase of "mansion I building" but following it, with the increased accessibility of the area for the average worker as a weekend trip or holiday, the holiday house became the pre-eminent type. All the symbols of suburban I development began to appear in the landscape and around the towns. Hotels, restaurants, ·retail outlets, community facilities were all built in I increasing numbers. Recreational facilities, in particular, were built in a diverse range of types including club houses for various sports and I swimming baths. The suburbanisation of the landscape culminated in the final phase of settlement. Community facilities I expanded and diversified including shopping centres and a hospital and small industrial concerns I appeared. The increased population required more I I I I 16 I housing and this, along with escalating land prices, encouraged the growth of two new types; the middle I class suburban house and the unit. I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 17

I 4.0 THE DEVELOPMENT MODEL

I The archival analysis has analysed the area in terms of chronological development and the reasons behind that settlement. This report has discussed these periods from a number of viewpoints; the geographic I pattern of settlement and the development of the built environment in response to those trends. 1I In this section factors which have influenced the survival of sites are considered and the extant data base, with respect to known or documented sites, is I examined. The purpose of this analysis is to establish a model of development for the study area over time which I may be tested against the survey results. From this model it is possible to make predictive statements concerning areas of archaeological sensitivity within the study area. It is a means by which areas I of high, medium or low priority are identified for active management planning. I I I I I I I I I I I I ~I I 18

I 4.1 FACTORS INFLUENCING THE SURVIVAL OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL I SITES 4.1.1 Ephemeral Construction and Sparse Distribution I This factor is more true of the earliest phase of settlement and is allied with the extensive later development of the area. I As discussed in the preceding section most early houses were timber in construction and even the more substantial examples, such as Mona Vale Farm, had I already fallen or begun to fall into decay by the l860s. The nature of the buildings suggests that little initial impact would have been made on the archaeological record and this would have been I distributed over a wide area because of the sparse settlement pattern of the early years. I Little was left by the later nineteenth century, a situation caused by the insubstantial nature of the sites and the extent of redevelopment of the same areas. The most obvious sign of earlier occupation I was in the changed topography and cover, for example grass replacing timber stands and exotic introduced I plant species. The majority of industrial concerns of the earliest phase left very little impact on the landscape. Shell gatherers required little support facilities I for their labour and the fishing community apparently relied on tents for shelter. The most substantial industrial concern, Thompson's salt I works and boat building yard on Scotland Island, apparently still had visible remains at the turn of the twentieth century. However, later development I has removed these traces. No visible trace remains of Therry's drilling at Avalon golf links. Timber getting, like most early settlement, is primarily recognizable for the effect it has had on the I landscape rather than for material remains of the industry. I This factor is less true of later phases of development with the possible exception of the fibro week-ender which has gradually been replaced by more substantial dwellings as land has commanded greater I prices in the district. I I I I I I 19

I 4.1.2 Natural Disaster and other Processes

I The effect of this factor on early settlement is unknown, however, fires are claimed to have destroyed a number of houses during the twentieth century. The Customs House group was destroyed by I fire in 1976.

other natural processes, for example the erosion I caused by the sea, have also played a part in removing traces of past activity. For example a number of rock baths have been obliterated through I wave action. I 4.~.3 Subdivision, Urbanisation and Redevelopment More than any other single factor these have accounted for the removal of substantial areas of I archaeological interest. The extensive development of the twentieth century has meant that traces of earlier evidence have been destroyed by modern I construction. This is not only true of early nineteenth century material but many turn of the century houses and I other facilities have been demolished to make way for new development. The high land prices have ensured that any vacant land has been developed I generally once and often more than once. I I I I I I I I I I I 20

I 4.2 THE DATA BASE

I No historical archaeological work has been undertaken in the study area to date. Existing Heritage Registers record only the sites of the I Customs House and Barrenjoey Light-House and associated sites such as the graves. The current survey is the first comprehensive analysis of the I area. Archival literature from the turn of the century until the middle years of the twentieth century I often records the fact that archaeological sites existed at that time. For example, plans of the area show a wharf to have existed in c. 1900 related to the Thompson industrial undertakings and eyewitness I accounts of the same period mention timber members still visible that related to the stocks for boat I building. Many local histories of that period refer to sites of old houses, cemeteries, quarries, ballast heaps and jetties which were extant at the time. In 1981 I the National Trust identified the sites of a jetty, paving and foundations of cottages associated with the Customs House. Most of these are no longer I visible (cf Section 5.0). It may be concluded that archaeological evidence of former sites did exist until the early years of the I twentieth century, however, the current state of the resource was unknown prior to this survey. I I I I I I I I I r

1I 21

I 4.3 THE MODEL

I 4.3.1 The Eighteenth Century: 1788 - 1800 The available evidence suggests that, after the initial exploration of the district in 1788 and I subsequent years, no European settlement occurred there. Occupation of the land was limited to I aboriginal settlement. 4.3.2 The Early Nineteenth Century: 1800 - c.1850 I The earliest settlement of the district began in the northern portion of the peninsula to take advantage of the river trade. It was small scale, mainly I farms, sparsely distributed and agrarian based. It is likely to have left little impact on the archaeological record and most of this is likely to I have been removed by later settlement. Settlement in the south had begun by 1810 and followed the pattern established in the north with I the same consequences for archaeological evidence. The central portion of the study area was encompassed in two large grants which were not I greatly developed. Industrial enterprise was mainly related to the exploitation of natural resources and required little in the way of support facilities. The exception was Thompson's works on Scotland I Island which appear to have left evidence until the beginning of the twentieth century. I By the middle of the century most of the early dwellings were decaying and the major impact of early settlement is likely to have been in the altered topography and vegetation; through clearing, I grass cover and the introduction of exotic species. Natural disaster may also have taken a toll on early I sites. 4.3.3 The Later Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Century c I 1850 - 1920 The developments of the later nineteenth century were more sophisticated than those preceding, I however, the distribution of settlement continued to be sparse, settling mostly in the south near transportation termini. More houses and community facilities, transport and communication systems were I established which are likely to have removed traces of earlier settlement although it is clear from I documentary evidence that some evidence, in a few I I 1 -~._-~_._-~~~~~~~~~~~~-~~~~-~~~~------~---~~ I 22

I cases quite substantial, survived through these years. Small towns began to be established. This pattern is particularly true of the later years I of this period when the impact of land subdivision and speculation was most felt. Community facilities began to diversify and housing stock greatly 'I increased. Settlement continued to expand in the southern portion of the study area but the northern area was focused, particularly for weaithy I residential settlement. Fires caused the loss of some sites during this I period. 4.3.4 Later Twentieth Century c. 1920 - 1988 I From the 1930s onwards all land within the study area was extensively developed for residential, commercial and recreational facilities. Major I townships have developed and residential space is at a premium. New housing types, the week-ender, the suburban house and the unit, have been constructed I to meet new demands. The-impact of this development on that preceding has been immense. There are few places in the study area I that have not been developed at least once and this suggests that any trace of archaeological evidence which may have survived from the nineteenth century I has more than likely been destroyed by the later intensive development. I I I I I I I I I 1 I 23

I 4.4 CONCLUSIONS

I The following may be concluded from the model: That archaeological evidence pre-dating 1800 is I unlikely to exist. That archaeological evidence of nineteenth century occupation did exist in the early years of the I twentieth century. That this evidence is likely to have been extensively, if not completely removed except in I very rare cases, by later development. That the majority of evidence in the area is likely to date to the twentieth century and is this will be I mainly in the form of standing structures and features such as buildings, jetties, pools, roads I and houses. I I I I I I I I I I I I 1 I 24

I 5.0 THE SURVEY

I Based on the findings of the predictive survey and with specific sites identified from the documentary resource a sample survey was taken over the study area. Intensive survey was not considered practical I or warranted given the results of the predictive survey. It is possible that some sites have not been located by this sample, however, it is suggested by I the predictive analysis that this is unlikely. The results of this survey and their implications for management .planning are discussed in this I section. 'I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 1 I 25

I 5.1 EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY EVIDENCE

I The only archaeological site which could be located and assigned to this period was that of the Customs House group. The extensive archaeological evidence identified by the National Trust in 1981 is no I longer obvious. Some tiled areas and terracing are visible but none of the features identified by the earlier survey. No other archaeological evidence was I located which could be assigned to this phase.

I 5.2 LATER NINETEENTH AND EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY EVIDENCE The major archaeological site identified for this I period is the light-house and associated graves. One later nineteenth century house site has been located, that of "Shifting Sands", on Currawong Beach with an associated tidal pool leaving some I remnants behind. One grave site, that of Frederick Oliver, has been identified at Elvina Bay and two stone jetties, one at Elvina Bay and one at Towlers I Bay may also date to this phase.

I 5.3 LATER TWENTIETH CENTURY EVIDENCE The remnants of a tidal rock pool, which are likely to date the 1920s, have been identified at Bungan I Head.

I 5.4 CONCLUSIONS The survey located very little archaeological evidence and this appears to be a true reflection of I the state of the historical archaeological resource within the peninsula and a confirmation of the predictive statement for the reasons outlined in I that analysis. I 5.5 IMPLICATIONS FOR MANAGEMENT PLANNING The historical archaeological resource ·.of the peninsula appears to be severely limited. It is, I therefore, important to conserve, where possible, those few remainders of earlier settlement particularly of the nineteenth century. Active measures should be taken to preserve the jetties and I protect the grave, house, pool and Customs House sites. I I I I WENDY THORP Consultant Archaeologist

I 78 Australia St, Camperdown 2050 Ph (02) 516 3381 I I

I THEMATIC DEVELOPMENT HISTORY OF WARRINGAH SHIRE for I THE WARRINGAH SHIRE HERITAGE STUDY

I May 1988 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I

I INDEX 1.0 Preface to the Report..•.•...... ••.•...... ••.. 1 I 1.1 Parameters of the Study...... ••...... •.... 1 1.2 1nltiative for study 1 1.3 Obj ectives 1 1.4 Methodology 1 I 1.5 Abbreviations Used in the Text ~ .. '.' .2 2.0 Thematic Development History..•...... 3 2.1 Thematic Periods 5 I Phase I 1788 - 1880 Settlement & Consolidation..... 5 Phase II 1880 - 1920 The Influence of the Real Estate Ventures -A Resort for the Wea1thy..•..•..15 Phase III 1920 - 1950 Holiday & Recreation.••...•• 23 I Phase IV 1950 - 1988 A Commuter Suburb - Exclusivity 30 2.2 Historic Themes 35 I Topography 35 Transportation 37 Scenic Values 39 Leisure and Tourism.....••...... •.••...... 41 I The Influence of the Real Estate Speculators and Developers 43 Industry 44 I A Sense of History....•..•...... ••.•...... 46 3.0 Bibliography 47 I Appendix: Chronology for the Warringah Shire.~ 51 I I I I I I I I I I I 1

I 1.0 PREFACE

I 1.1 PARAMETERS OF THE STUDY This study is concerned with the land encompassed by Barrenjoey to the north, the Pacific Ocean to the I east, Pittwater to the west and an" artificial" boundary on the south which approximately follows the lines of Mona Vale Road, Vineyard street, Samuel I Street, Cabbage Tree Road, Torumba Avenue, Gi1wanga Drive and McCarrs Creek Road. Scotland Island is also included in the study area as are a number of I parcels of land on the western shore of Pittwater. I 1.2 INITIATIVE FOR STUDY This study is one component of a heritage study being undertaken for the Warringah Shire Council by I Brian McDonald Architect Pty Ltd. I 1.3 OBJECTIVES Two major objectives have been defined for this I work. These are: 1.3.1 To define major thematic periods of development for the study area. I 1.3.2 To define the major historic themes in the development of the study area. I The two strands of the study are intended to provide .~ an understanding of the chronological development of the area from first settlement as well as the reasons for that settlement. This data provides the I basis for informed assessments of inventory items, both standing and sub-surface. It is not intended as a detailed social historical account of the area; I this is best provided by local histories. The purpose of this research is to provide the overview I rather than concentrating on the microcosm. 1.4 METHODOLOGY I Historical research has been undertaken in the major archival repositories of Mitchell Library (which has included historical map, plan and subdivision plans I searches, newspaper and journal accounts, local histories, pictorial material, real estate accounts, tourist information etc.; in the Royal Australian I Historical Society library (for early local I I 2 I

historical accounts and for journal articles which I provided earlier research material prepared on the subject area and post office histories); the Lands Department for various maps and the state Archives I Authority of New South Wales for maps, plans and surveyor's information. I In addition, local history collections of the Manly and Pittwater Historical Society and Manly Library have also been investigated.

I The archival analysis has been arranged in two major sections: Thematic Periods I Historc Themes Following these is an extended bibliography and a I chronology is appended. I 1.5 ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THE TEXT JRAHS Journal of the Royal Australian Historical Society I SMH Sydney Morning Herald I ML HIfcheJ1· LbYtlAf I I I I I I I I I I -I I 3

I 2.0 THEMATIC DEVELOPMENT HISTORY

The development history which has been prepared for I Warringah Shire comprises two main elements, Historic Themes and Thematic Periods. These are explained in the following paragraphs. In addition I to these major discussions an Appendix has. been included which provides a chronology of major events I in the development of the study area. Historic Themes The historical research for this study has I identified a number of themes which characterize and explain the development of the study area since the beginning of European settlement. The principal I historic themes have been defined under the fOllowing titles: I Topography Transportation I Scenic.Values I Leisure and Tourism The Influence of the Real Estate Speculators and DeveloPl?rs I Industry A Sense of History Many of the themes are closely inter-related. They are included separately because each emphasises.a slightly different, but important, aspect of the :1 area's development.

I Thematic Periods Some themes, including some of those preceding, I characterise the development of the area during particular periods. Four major thematic periods have been defined for the study area. These are: I Phase I: 1788 - 1880 Settlement and Consolidation I Phase II: 1880 - 1920 The Influence of the Real Estate Ventures I -A Resort for the Wealthy I I -, I 4

I Phase Ill: 1920 - 1950 Holiday and Recreation Phase IV: 1950 - 1988 I A Commuter Suburb_ ~xc hJsl\Jrt'1 A series of dominant characteristics have been I selected to represent these main thematic periods. However, it is clear that each period has inter-related events, not all of which fit exactly to the time scale. For example some real estate I speculation did occur before 1880, but it is the period 1880 - 1920 that is most significant for this I aspect. This discussion is not intended to provide a detailed social history of the study area. It is I meant to provide a chronological framework in which to locate sites, structures, relics and places and assess their significance against the background of the local development. Considerable detail is I provided in the Chronology. I I I I I I I I I I I I I 5 I I 2.1 THEMATIC PERIODS 2.1.1 PHASE I: 1788 - 1880

I SETTLEMENT AND CONSOLIDATION

I The first phase of settlement in the study area is characterized by a number of key issues. In particular, these are the initial exploration and early settlement in the form of small farms and, I later, larger grants. Industrial activities were established and early communication systems linking Pittwater with Sydney. By the end of the phase the I beginnings of community development emerged evidenced by the establishment of churches, schools and other public facilities. However, for most of I this long period, the peninsula and surrounding lands were isolated from the mainstream of settlement. This isolation lent an atmosphere of mystery to the settlement. A certain degree of I lawlessness further inhibited settlement. On 21 January 1788 Governor Arthur Phillip landed at I Manly. By 15 April of the same year he had commenced an exploratory trip from Manly towards Pittwater (1) and travelled through the area of Beacon Hill and French's Forest (2). Pittwater was not sighted on I this trip. On 2 March 1788 Phillip arrived at Barrenjoey Headland and made camp on the opposite shore. On 3 March he explored the northern side of I Broken Bay as far as Dangar Island. The party then turned and examined the southern shores (3). I On 5 March Pittwater was sighted and Phillip recorded that;

"immediately around the Headland that I forms the southern entrance into the bay there is a branch which is I think the finest piece of water I ever saw, and I which I honoured with the name of Pitt water. It is, as well as the south-west branch, of sufficient extent to contain all the navy of Great Britain, but has I only eighteen feet at low water on a I narrow bar which runs across the 1. Gledhill, P.W. Manly and Pittwater Its Beauty and progress. , 3. I 2. McDonald, c. E. & Henderson, C.W. The Manly Warringah story., 13-15 I 3. Ibid. , 15 I I -I 6 I I entrance." (4) The investigation of the area during the remaining years of the eighteenth century was accomplished by both official and unofficial exploratory trips. The I earliest detailed survey of the area appears to have occurred in the early part of September 1789. The waters of Bay View, Newport, around Church Point and I McCarr's Creek were investigated at this time (5). By 1792 William Dawes had walked from Manly to Barrenjoey and subsequently published a map which I marked the land above Careel Bay as good pasture for sheep (6).

It was not, however, until the early years of the 'I nineteenth century that white settlers came permanently to the area. Prior to that, Broken Bay aborigines relocated themselves at Pittwater after I the advancing white settlement had alienated them from their traditional land.

Earliest settlement of the study area, until c. I 1810, was situated mainly in the northern portion of the peninsula taking advantage of the river trade along the Hawkesbury River from Green Hills. Sea I traffic was the only direct route to the major settlement at Sydney. Barrenjoey became the major port for Green Hills. Settlement was agrarian based with wheat and oats becoming the most important I crops.

One of the earliest farmers in the area is claimed I to have been Pat Flynn who is said to have established a commercial vegetable farm at the base of Barrenjoey by 1808 (7). An extensive trade in I agriculture and timber opened up between Pittwater and Brisbane waters and the Hawkesbury. The area was, at this time, regarded as potentially good for I farming. Between 1810 and 1820 settlement commenced in the southern portion of the study area. By 1810 a I constable, Robert Macintosh Senior, was established at Pittwater growing wheat and potatoes and grazing cattle (8). Scotland Island was granted to Andrew I Thompson in 1810 (9).' Development of the island appears to have been rapid. In the same year an 18

I 4 .. Gledhill, P. W. Op Cit., 136 5. Swancott, C. Dee Why to Barrenjoey and Pittwater., 8 6. Ibid. I 7. Steege, J. (Ed), Palm Beach 1788 - 1988., 24 8. Swancott, C. Op Cit., 9 I 9. Gledhill, P.W. Op Cit., 128. I

L..-I _ -I ------~ ----- 7 I

ton vessel was launched from stocks on the island. I The boat, the "Geordy", was one of the first built in the colony and was the first major industrial endeavour of the area (10).

I By 1812 Scotland Island was offered for sale and an advertisement in the Sydney Gazette described the property as containing 120 acres of good soil, an I extensive salt works, a good dwelling house and stores, labourers' rooms and facilities for a fishery or shipbuilding. A partly built vessel of I ninety tons was in the stocks at the time of the advertisement (11). These industrial traditions laid the basis for later development.

I By 1816 it is apparent that most of the arable land had been granted in the study area. Governor Macquarie inspected the farms at Pittwater in that I year and published an abstract of land vacant and suitable for farming. None of the latter was mentioned as being in Pittwater (12).

I Howvere, the first of the large grants was made in 1816. This comprised 400 acres given to James Napper on the sand peninsula leading to and including I Barrenjoey (13). This included all of Palm Beach and most of Whale Beach. This grant was followed by a 700 acre farm surveyed for Robert Campbell at Mona I Vale in 1819 (14).

Between the 1820s and the 1840s this pattern of I settlement and development continued in the study area. The remainder of viable land was parceled out during this time. In 1821 grants of land were made I at Caree1 Bay and Bay View varying between 50 and 80 acres (15). Daniel Foley occupied the land around the site of the later Rock Lily Hotel in Mona Vale from 1821. In 1822 Robert Henderson advertised his I farm at Bilgola, infering that he had established it before that date (16). Further land was parceled out I at Mona Vale in 1824 (17). In 1827 60 acres was granted to John Farrell at I 10. Ibid., 128-9 11. Ibid., 129 12. Anderson, M. "The story of Pittwater" JRAHS Vol. VI., 179 I 13. G1edhi11, P.w. Op Cit., 120. 14. Swancott, C. Op Cit., 100 15. Gledhill, P.w. Op Cit., 148 and Swancott, C. Qe I Cit., 9 16 Swancott, C. Op Cit., 101 I 17. Palm Beach Subdivision Boxes I I 1 8 I

I present day Avalon. In 1831 land was granted at Crystal Bay and during 1832 various grants, between 40 and 200 acres, were made at Bay View (18). I In the same year Thomas Langford applied for 40 acres at Church Point (19). During the 1830s land was allocated at Careel Bay, Newport, Salt Pan I Point, Taylors Point, Stokes Point, Mona Vale, Currawong and Great Mackerel Beaches. In 1843 land grants were made at Newport and Clareville. During the 1840s land was granted at Elvina Bay and I Soldiers Point (20).

The largest of the grants was that made to Father J. I Therry. By 1833 his total land holdings encompassed the land between Whale Beach in the north to Newport in the south, from Pittwater in the west to the I Pacific Ocean in the east (21). Included were the present day districts of Whale Beach, Careel Bay, Salt Pan, Clareville, Avalon and Bilgola. I The growth of settlement encouraged the growth of better communications although the rugged terrain inhibited this development. By 1822 the first road 1I from Manly to Sydney via Pittwater was in existence (22). Further surveys were made in 1829, particularly of McCarr's Creek (23). An 1832 Australian Directory reference described the I features of the Pittwater Road and, in doing so, has left a vivid impression of the isolation of the I peninsula settlement; "At 11 1/2 miles, hut on the sea shore. The path from Pennant Hills reaches the I sea and joins this coastal road at the farm of one Foley ... (this is Mona Vale). At 13 miles, several farms and cottages. At 14 miles the Rev. Joseph I Therry has a grant here. At 14 1/2 miles the Hole-in-the-Wall being a rock projection forming a rough archway with I the shore. A little further on is a remarkable cave in the sea cliff. At 15 miles, on the left, is Careel Bay where there are two small farms and I cottages. At 19 1/4 miles, Barrenjoey. A

I 18. Swancott, C. Gp Cit., 25 19. Ibid., 37 20. Gledhill, P.W. Gp Cit., 139 I 21. Ibid., 148 22. Ibid., 4 I 23. Ibid., 12 I I 1­ 9 " I

rocky peninsula extending east and west I and joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus of sand. This remarkable spot is inhabited by three old fishermen who supply the farmers of the Hawkesbury, as I far as the river admits of navigation. They also ferry travellers across to I Brisbane Waters." (24) An 1832 letter from James Larmer, the Surveyor General, recorded a total of twelve properties at Pittwater varying in size between 30 and 640 acres I (25). In the same year the area was fulsomely praised and it was claimed that it would "only require suitable inhabitants to resemble Arcadia" I (26) . The industrial tradition established by Andrew I Thompson also continued to the middle of the century. It was reported in 1829 that" parties of shingle splitters frequently made trips to the mountains near Pittwater (27). In 1842 William 1I Oliver secured a thirty acre lease at Lovett Bay with a forest of oak on it. The oak was used for firewood in his bakery business as well as being I sold to other bakers. It was also cut for shingles (28). Shell gathering was another common enterprise. Until I 1829 it was said that heaps of shells were found in the creeks and a number of vessels were engaged in transporting" them to Sydney where they. were burned I for lime (29). By 1850 a visitor to the area reported that houses inhabited by the men engaged in shell gathering had been abandoned because the shell I beds were exhausted (30). The industry did continue, though, for some time afterwards. The fishermen at Barrenjoey had gone by that time. I Salt production, by evaporating salt water, begun by Andrew Thompson in 1810 continued to be practiced during this phase at other locations. This was said I, to have occurred at Salt Pan Cove during the 1830s in conjunction with a ship building business (31). I 24. Quoted in Ibid., 114 25. Swancott, C. Gp Cit., 9 I 26. NSW Calendar and P.G. Directory 1832. 27. Swancott, C. Gp Cit., 27 28. Ibid., 26-7 I 29. Ibid. 9 30. Ibid. I 31. G1edhill, P.W. Gp Cit., 42 I I 10 I

The close proximity of the peninsula to the river I trade of the Hawkesbury meant, perhaps inevitably,that smuggling became a profitable occupation for some in the study area. In an effort I to check this problem a Customs House was established at the base of Barrenjoey in 1843. By 1846 it was reported by the Commissioners of Customs in London that the Broken Bay (Barrenjoey) Customs I House had been successful in checking the smuggling which, prior to its construction, had been rife I (32) • After 1850 the pioneering quality of the settlement at Pittwater was gradually replaced by a growing sense of community as the tiny settlements began to I consolidate the gains of the first half of the century. However, the area still remained sparsely settled, difficult to reach and was perceived by I "outsiders" with curiosity. Equally, Sydney remained a mystery for some of the "natives". The Handbook of I Sydney for 1867 stated that, "A clergyman penetrating into the district a few years ago, found many grown up people who had never I visited the city and are, in a measure, uncivilized." (33) I Portions of the area were still unknown quantities in the second half of the nineteenth century and some exploration of these continued, for example' McCarr's Creek was surveyed by Captain Sydney in I 1868 (34). But settlement gradually spread out forming tiny pockets within the peninsula although, in 1861, it was said that farms were "few and far I between" (35). More land was granted at Mona Vale in 1853 and, between the 1860s and ~880s, land around McCarr's Creek and Lovett Bay was gradually bought I and settled in small isolated pockets (36). The first land grant at Church Point occurred in 1871 (37) . I It has been claimed, however, that between 1840 and 1863 the number of the families actually declined in the area from twenty to eight. Land use changed from I wheat and oat farming to grazing and dairying (38). 32~ Swancott, C. Op Cit. 23 33. Quoted in Ibid., 28 I 34. Gledhill, P.w. Op Cit., 125 35. "A Trip Overland to Broken Bay, the Mouth of the Hawkesbury" SMH 6.4.1861., 8 I 36. Swancott, C. Op Cit. 86 37. Gledhill, P.W. Op Cit., 121 I 38. Daily Mirror 5.1.1966 I I 1 11 I Early real estate auctions were held during this period, at Brighton (Josephtown on Father Therry's I grant near Careel Bay) in 1871 and again in 1877 (39). These did not amount to anything. The area was I still too isolated to attract real attention. Lawlessness also contributed to inhibiting settlement. In 1867 a newspaper report stated of I Pittwater that; "It is evident that a large portion of the land was under cultivation at one I time. No doubt the chief cause of the present inertia is to be found in the bad reputation of the area for agrarian I outrages. The history of the Mona Vale case (a notorious murder and property damage incident at Mona Vale Farm) reveals a condition of society within a I few miles of Sydney that might well deter persons from settling there and though the arm of the law fell on some I evil-doers there is now too much reason to fear that similar outrages will not '11 again disturb the district." (40) Crime continued to plague the area for much of the century with numerous police being sent to maintain order. Smuggling, however, was finally brought under I control and in 1870 the Customs House was disbanded although it remained in use for other functions until 1900 (41). It was destroyed by fire in 1976. I In the same location, on the headland above, a lighthouse was erected in 1868. This was replaced by the present lighthouse in 1881 (42). Some form of light had existed on the site since 1855, apparently I housed in a weatherboard building (43).

As the settlement slowly expanded, communications I and access to the Sydney became important. In 1861 the Newport to Barrenjoey Road was gazetted as was a slightly altered form of the original 1822 road. In I 1870 Pittwater Road was surveyed and in 1877 the Road from Mona Vale to Church Point. In the same year Barrenjoey Road and Bay View Road were surveyed I (44) .

39. Sharpe, A. Pictorial Memories Manly to Palm Beach., I 123 40. Quoted in Anderson, M. Op Cit., 178 41. Swancott, C. Op Cit., 24 I 42. Ibid., 19-20 43. Ibid. I 44. Gledhill, P.w. Op Cit., 123 & Sharpe, A. Op Cit.,136 I I 12 I

Finally, in 1879, Charles Edward Jeannerett, who I owned the Parramatta and River steamers Co., decided to extend his services. This resulted in the construction of a pier which ran into Pittwater at Newport. This was the first form of public transport I to the area (45). A suggestion had been made in 1869 to extend a railway service to the area but nothing had come of it (46). However, in that year a I telegraph line was commenced from Castle Hill to Barrenjoey. It was opened in the following year. A post office was opened at Barrenjoey in 1871 (47). In 1876 a telegram from Manly to Barrenjoey took two I days (48).

"Prior to 1880 Pittwater was undisturbed I by and aloof from influences of the metropolis. The traveller had been obliged to hire any old contraption he I could get to take him to Newport. In that year...a line of coaches from Manly to Newport were established... The fare was five shillings each way and if the I traveller wished to proceed to Bay View or Church Point it was necessary to hire I a boat." (49) Despite these advances the area continued to be difficult for the casual traveller to reach. An 1861 account of a journey to the district reported that I it was only accessible by horse back and took two days, return, from Sydney. Mention is made of a "tortuous mountain track" which had to be navigated I to reach the Hawkesbury (50). Another account from 1861 of "My Holiday" provides detailed descriptions of the countryside, I particularly of its rugged and barely tamed character. For example, near Careel Bay, the I traveller described; "The track, a mere bridle path, now led along the flat, then across a dank I luxuriant gully... across a creek, up a hill, round the point of the range, down the other side of the hill, across I another flat, gully, hill then onto a

45. Sharpe, A. Op Cit., 107. I 46. Gledhill., P. W. Op Cit., 149 47. Swancott, C. Op Cit., 24 48. Steege, J. (Ed)., Op Cit., 25. I 49. Quoted in Swancott, C. Op Cit.,103 50. "A Trip Overland to Broken Bay, The Mouth of the I Hawkesbury" SMH 6.4.1861., 8 I I 1 13 I I broader flat." (51) In particular, the article is noteworthy for its description of the houses established in Pittwater at that time. Mona Vale Farm was described as a !I long, low slab building faced with weatherboards and fronted by a verandah supported on rough bush posts. To the right of the house were a barn, stables and I various other outbuildings. A large area of cUltivated land contained corn stubble, sorghum, ploughed land, fallow land and barley. Cattle, pigs and poultry were kept on the farm (52). Slightly I further down the social scale a farm on the Therry grant was described as 1I " ...a homestead, small but neat, having evidently been only recently whitewashed. The paddock was now clear I of all undergrowth (but) a goodly cluster of tall trees had been left standing around the house... Inside it was the very beau ideal of cleanliness I and care... the floor, though an earthen one, was swept so clean that it more resembled a single large slab of I stone . .. " (53) At Careel Bay were "three little whitewashed slab huts with bark roofs" (54). It is evident, though, I that the habitations of the early settlers were, by the l860s, falling into disrepair. In 1867 these were generally described as decayed and ruined (55). I By the l870s a new generation of houses had begun construction, for example Bilgola House built in c. I 1870. The contemporary descriptions also mention industrial activities. Some shell gathering appears I to have still operated; "On the sands ... two boys were busied collecting shells, by filling an old I basket with the sand, and then agitating it in a water hole... (the shells) when washed clean were thrown into a boat that lay helplessly on its side close to I them. Out on the waters of the bay I floated a smart little cutter... 51. "My Holiday" SMH 2.9.1861., 3 52. Ibid., SMH 5.8.1861., 2 I 53. Ibid., SMH 2.9.1861., 3 54. Ibid. I 55. "A Ride to Barrenjoey" SMH 22.3.1867., 5 I I ~­ 14· I I probably... a shell boat." (56) However, industrial activity was not a dominant feature of this period of the peninsula's ~I development. The most spectacularly abortive attempt in this direction was the investigative drilling for coal carried out on the Therry grant during 1860. Old men were employed on the operation which reached I at least 150 feet but the attempt was unsuccessful (57). This shaft was located at Bilgola Head on what are now the Avalon Golf Links.

I At the other end of the scale was a community of Chinese established at Barrenjoey who caught and cured fish for the Sydney and Melbourne markets. The I business was described as "a good hit" (58). There was some boat or ketch building established at Bay View during the l870s (59). A list of residents and I their occupations for Pittwater during the l870s and l880s is dominated by farmers with an occasional tradesman and even less professionals, for example a stonemason, boatman, hotel keeper, fisherman, I teacher and builder (60).

By the end of the first phase of settlement, despite I the problems of distance, lawlessness and difficult terrain it is evident that the embryo settlements had consolidated and a sense of community had emerged. This is best evidenced by the public I buildings and facilities which were established at this period. In 1871 a post office was established at Barrenjoey (61) and in the same year St John the I Baptist Church was opened overlooking Newport Road (62) . I In the following year, 1872, a small weatherboard chapel was built at Church Point giving the area its name (63). The church was said to be "quite in the wilderness" (64). Also in 1872 approval was given I for the establishment of Barrenjoey Public School close to the Customs House. It opened in 1872 with I twenty-three pupils (65).

56. "My Holiday" SMH 2.9.1861., "3 57. Ibid., 6.4.1861., 8 I 58. Ibid. 59. Swancott, C., Gp Cit., 30 60. Described in Ibid., 11-13 I 61. Ibid., 24 62. Gledhill, P. Gp Cit., 132 63. Ibid. I 64. SMH 2.10.1871., 3 65. Steege, J (Ed)., Gp Cit., 25 I I I 1 15 I I 2.1.2 PHASE II: 1880 - 1920 THE INFLUENCE OF THE REAL ESTATE VENTURES -A RESORT I FOR THE WEALTHY

During the last decades of the nineteenth century I more land on the peninsula was developed for settlement although it still remained a low density area. Some areas became popular picnic destinations and weekend trips from Sydney. Occasional hotels and I boarding houses were built to cater for this trade and more services were established both for the permanent settler and casual visitor. Real estate I speculators surveyed estates but nothing came of the initial interest except a heightened awareness of I the attractions of the district. The 1880s saw land prices boom in Sydney and land in the study area was speculatively purchased in response to this trend. However prices, in I particular for seaside properties, took a dramatic tumble following the 1890s depression. This economic pattern is evidenced by land sales in the Peninsula I during these decades. However, as a result of this growi~g awareness, from 1900 onwards many of the early properties were I subdivided by real estate speculators and the area was extolled, and sold, on its virtues of pleasure and leisure possibilities and health-giving I qualities. It was also recommended as an excellent investment opportunity. Beach houses were built and I it became an area for the wealthy. The latter was partly occasioned by the continuing difficulty of access, particularly towards Barrenjoey, and the time required to reach it. Only I the wealthy could afford the luxury of time required to reach Pittwater. I Following the expansion of settlement during the later years of the preceding phase more land grants were made during the 1880s at McCarr's Creek, Lovett Bay, Towlers Bay and Church Point (1). In 1880 the I New Marine Township of Newport was surveyed and McCarr's Creek was surveyed soon after. Choice villa estates were being offered at Careel Bay on Stokes I Point as early as 1881. The Bay View Estate was

I 1. G1edhi11, P. Manly and Pittwater Its Beauty and Progress., 128 and Corbett, A. Church Point and I McCarrs Creek A Nostalgic Look at the Past., 12 I I ~ 16 I

surveyed in 1883. Oliver's grant at Lovett Bay was I surveyed in 1890 to form thirty allotments called the "Vetnor Estate". In 1893 a Crown Land sale was held at Mona Vale for the village of Turimetta, I although nothing much came of this (2). Real estate agents advertised land in the district as being "extra desirable" as a resort for metropolitan I citizens (3). The large early grants were, during this period, purchased and subsequently subdivided. In 1881 the I government purchased the former Napper grant at Barrenjoey (4) and in 1886 Father J. Therry's grant was sold privately. Portions of the latter were I resold in 1900 and 1913 (5). Despite the sale of land, though, the settled areas remained low key. For example, a visitor to Newport I in 1880 reported that it was only represented by one house, at present, but that the site appeared "peculiarly eligible" for a township (6). In 1887 it I was reported that, although some land had been sold in recent years there, there was no township and no buildings expect a dilapidated hotel (7). The town I was surveyed in 1888. By 1890 Newport could boast one hotel and one boarding house (8). By 1904 the population of I Newport was 100 and it was said to be a "busy place" (9). Mona Vale in 1905 was said to be "a considerable settlement, including two stores" (10). I The increase in facilities can be" attributed to the increased interest in the area for leisure activities; picnics and day trips. For example in I 1889, while the facilities at Newport were still limited, the Tourist Bureau stated that the traffic from Manly to Newport during 1887-8 was slightly in I excess of 2000 with an increase in traffic of 50-70%. It was common practice to charter steamers for trips to Newport and on more than one occasion

Palm Beach Subdivision Boxes "Lane Cove and Pittwater" in The Town and Country Journal 28.8.1880., 402 Gledhill, P. Op Cit., 120 Swancott, C. Dee Why to Barrenjoey and Pittwater., 68 . "Lane Cove and Pittwater" in The Town and Country Journal 28.8.1880., 402 Newport Post Office History. "Picturesque NSW - Manly to Pittwater Sydne!;i Mail 21.6.1890 Quoted in Gledhill, P., Op Cit., 140 Swancott, C. Op Cit., 81 I I 1 18 I I 1/2 to 3 1/2 acres sold for 18 to 20 pounds. It was not until 1911/12 that land sales in the area escalated. This was aided by the fact that, during this decade, the rules prohibiting surf bathing as a I dangerous and immoral act were relaxed. This led to an increased interest in seaside land. In 1911 two successful auctions were held at Church Point of 25 I blocks followed by another thirteen. Subdivisions were also made at Ocean Beach (19). The sales brochures described the scenery and transport and I stated that the area was "one of the finest week-end estates ever offered in Sydney a property well I worth investigation by every man and woman who enjoys boating, fishing and I bathing at their best" (20). In January 1912 another sale was held on behalf of the Barrenjoey Land Company. This time all the land was sold; it fronted onto the· ocean and Pittwater I (21). At the end of 1912 a second subdivision was made at Palm Beach for the same company. Much smaller blocks were offered and roads had been I built. The prospectus for the sale stated that, "There will be a ready market for such land. Indeed once a purchaser you'll I probably remain an owner - this land will quickly be too costly to I replace" (22). Other blocks were offered in 1912 at Newport and Mona Vale and in 1913 at Newport which was described I as a "mecca for health and pleasure seekers." Clareville Beach Estate was offered in1914 (23). The boom in land sales was encouraged by what was termed the "universal Saturday Half Holiday" which afforded I more people more leisure time. A contemporary discussion stated that, I "The demand for weekend lots by the water is growing wonderfully. It, the enforcing of the universal Saturday Half Holiday in Sydney, is going to make this I the greatest 'weekend year' the city has

I 19. Ibid. 20. Real Estate Brochure, Church Point. A. Rickard and Co. Ltd Auctioneers and Realty Specialists. I 21. Steege. J. (Ed). Gp Cit., 34 22. Ibid. I 23. PaLm Beach Subdivision Boxes I I ~~------~~~-~~.~-~---- 1 19 I I ever known." (24) Much was made also of the pleasure activities so readily available including surfing, bathing, sailing, rowing, fishing and na~ural scenery all I close to Sydney. Health consciousness was also a major selling point; I "After toiling all the week in your office, warehouse or place of business, for your health's sake you should take I as much healthy relaxation as opportunity affords; and what better means than owning an allotment at Palm Beach...not too close yet not too far." I (25) •

The appreciation ~f the natural resources of the I area were encapsulated by the dedication of Ku-Ring-Gai Chase in 1894. In 1906 the first Pittwater Regatta was held. One of the first houses built on the Palm Beach subdivisions was a I guesthouse built by the Palm Beach Land Co. on the corner of Florida and Palm Beach Roads. It burnt I down in 1926 (26). Between 1914 and 1920 most of the choice land in the peninsula was auctioned. In 1914 Careel Ocean Estate I was sold. In 1917 the Bushranger Estate was auctioned and land above Newport. In 1918 land at Bay View and Careel Bay was sold. In 1919 auctions were held at Whale Beach and Winjie Jimie, Newport I and in 1920 the Waterview Estate at Church Point was subdivided. I As a result of the increased interest in the area communications and access were forced to improve and expand. In 1880, following his construction of the pier at Newport, Jeannerett acquired more land at I Newport as well as a small local steamer and the mail contract in the same area. A coach service was begun between Manly and Newport (27). However, I contemporary reports still claimed that a trip to the area was not "an odyssey to be undertaken lightly" because of the difficulty of transport (28). An 1885 advertisement gave the coach timetable I from Newport to Barrenjoey as twice a week and a

I 24. Real Estate Brochure, Church Point. A. Rickard and Co. Ltd Auctioneers and Realty Specialists. 25. Land Sale Brochure, Palm Beach. Raine and Horne 1912 I 26. Steege, J. (Ed). Qp Cit., 46 27. Sharpe, A. Qp Cit., 107 I 28. Steege, J. (Ed) Qp Cit., 32 I I ~ 20· I

special trip from Manly to Pittwater left every I Saturday and returned on the Monday (29). In 1887 a wharf was built at Church Point and a store was opened with boats for hire. In 1888 a I telegraph station was opened at Newport. By 1889 it was common practice to hire a steamer to make the trip to Newport but in that year an Act of I Parliament was passed to authorise the construction of a railway to Pittwater and tram to Manly. The project did not proceed.

I In 1901 a wharf was built at Bay View near the Post Office. A Manly to Pittwater Tramway League was formed to lobby this cause. In 1902 the Manly system I began construction but it was never extended to Pittwater (30). In 1906 the first motor bus service was conducted between Manly and Newport (31). I Between 1915 and 1920 touring cars took passengers from Narrabeen to Church Point. These were superseded by buses (32).

I The subdivision of the large estates also occasioned in many cases improvements in this direction. Prior to the 1911 auctions at Church Point a number of I improvements were made to the land in the form of retaining walls and jetties. The 1912 Palm Beach sales created more roads in the district. In the ,I same year a small wharf was built just south of Observation Point and a ferry service was established from Newport to Palm Beach. In 1920 the main road from Palm Beach to Newport was completed I and the Barrenjoey Road was surfaced' in bitumen (33) .

The new owners of land on the peninsula were I wealthy; old families and professional people, doctors, lawyers and wealthy semi-retired I businessmen. "In the early days of the motor car the wealthy were usually the first to own I one. During weekend jaunts to Palm Beach they came to appreciate its natural beauty and built their holiday and retirement homes while the less affluent I settled for a fibro cottage within coo-ee of the tram terminus at I 29. Quoted in Gledhill, P.W. Op Cit., 149 30. McDonald, C. Stories of the Peninsula "The Local Tramway Service"., 68 I 31. Sharpe, A. Gp Cit., 137 32. Corbett, C. Gp Cit., 5 I 33. Steege, J. Gp Cit., 34 I I 1 21 'I I Narrabeen." (34) The houses they built reflected their economic and social class. After WWI many lavish "beach houses" I and homes were built, particularly at Palm Beach. They included "Craigie-Lee", "Florida House", "Winbro Hill", "Tidapa", "The Moorings" and many others. Established houses were sometimes modified il or replaced to fit in with the new elite. For example the original Bilgola House, a weatherboard cottage, was replaced in 1919 by a much grander I house. As an indication of the "gentrification" of the area, the unimproved capital value of ratable land increased from 223,000 pounds in 1907 to 440,000 pounds in 1912 to one million pounds in 1922 I (35) .

Perhaps the best example of this trend was the I construction of "Bungan Castle" in 1919 by A.W. Albers on land purchased at Bungan Head. The castle, fortress, battlements, tower and all, was only used for week-end parties until 1944 when Albers came to I live permanently there until his death in 1959 (36).

In addition to houses, many community facilities I were developed during this phase to cater for the expanded settlement and population. In 1880 the Newport Hotel was opened and in 1886 the Rock Lily ,I at Mona Vale. Post offices were opened at Bay View in 1882, Newport in 1889 (although this was an "unofficial" office), Newport in 1898, Mona Vale in 1905 (temporary), Church Point in 1909, Mona Vale in I 1913 and Palm Beach in 1914.

Public Schools were opened at Bay View in 1884, I Newport in 1889 (replaced in 1900), Mona Vale in 1906 (temporary) and Pittwater in 1911. The Church Point Chapel was used as a school between 1884 and 1888. In 1887 a block in the district was dedicated I for a new school.

Telephone exchanges were established at Palm Beach I in 1891 (with four subscribers), Bay View in 1893, Barrenjoey in 1913 and Newport in 1914. A telegraph I' and telephone office opened at Mona Vale in 1908. st John the Baptist Church was opened at Mona Vale in 1907 (replacing an earlier structure at a I different site).

34. Sharpe, A. Gp Cit., 132 I 35. Via1oux, A. Manly and Warringah Shire., 73 36. Swancott, C. Gp Cit., 114 I I I ,\ 22 I

The community which had evolved by the twentieth I century was expressed by the proclamation of shire boundaries in 1906. The first meeting was held of a nominee Warringah Shire Council in the same year and the first meeting of the elected Council was held II later in that year. II I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I -I 23 I I 2.1.3 PHASE III: 1920 -1950 HOLIDAY AND RECREATION

I During this phase the area became a popular resort and holiday destination for all economic classes. The eased bathing restrictions encouraged this I process and the greater access to the car also aided the development although, for the majority, the continuing problem of access precluded this area as a viable commuter suburb. Restricted access also I acted to keep land prices down. The popular conception of the place was still of a fairly distant and isolated location which one went to I specifically for a holiday. It was not considered to be part of the greater urban development. I The 1920s coincided with a housing boom and an ethic of owning your own house. During this decade Warringah had more subdivided land than occupied land thanks to the real estate speculators (1). Real I estate agents of the time offered particular types of sites to appeal to specific images. Subdivisions at Mona Vale were sold as "choice seaside sites. I Holiday visions. Suggesting a glorious time beside the sea." (2). Lots at Great Mackerel Beach were offered as "a delightful chance to the city dweller" (3). Various tourist brochures and publications were I produced during this decade detailing the scenic attractions, facilities and transport connections. The area was described as "The Riviera of Australia" I (4) • "Two basic facts lay behind the subdivision boom of these ten years (the I 1920s): demand for land by prospective home owners and demand from wishful thinkers or speculators. Both were I encouraged by the real estate industry and large suburban land holders seeking to make quick profits. Land subdivision I could be a most lucrative business especially in the days when developers were not required to provide fully made roads and kerbing and guttering and had I no responsibility for the provision of I 1. Spearritt, P. Sydney Since the Twenties., 50 2. Arthur Rickard and Co. quoted in Ibid., 46-7 I 3. A. W. Horning quoted in Ibid., 48-- 4. Port Jackson and Manly Steamship Co. Manly I The Beautiful and Glorious warringah. I I 1I 24 I other utility services." (5) The 1920s saw the last of the great real estate auctions on the peninsula. In April 1920 there was 11, an auction of Brown's Blocks at Pittwater and lots at Ocean Beach. Lots were also offered at Great Mackerel Beach but failed to be sold (6). In 1921 the first subdivisions were made at Avalon and lots I were offered at Whale Beach, Soldiers Point, Taylors Point and Church Point (7). I During 1922 land was sold at Bilgola and Careel Bay, described as "virgin bush with the hillsides covered with Christmas Bush and flannel flowers" (8) and lots were offered again at Great Mackerel Beach (9). I In 1923 land was auctioned at Newport and Taylors Point, the latter called "The Pearl of Pittwater" and boasting the "finest palm groves in the city" I (10). In 1924 land was subdivided at Ava10n and Bungan Head; the latter had been on sale since 1920 (11). Land was sold at Sand Point in 1925 and in 1926 Johnstone's Estates were subdivided near the I former Township of Brighton on Careel Bay (12).

By 1927 the Palm Beach Land Company owned all the I land from Avalon to Palm Beach. Further lots were sold at Sand Point in this year and in 1928 an auction was held for a land subdivision at Whale I Beach. In 1930 Palm Beach Estate was further subdivided south of Cabbage Tree Boat Harbour. This appears to have been the last great land sale on the peninsula. During the later 1920s Scotland island I underwent significant redevelopment in the form of roads, parks, tennis courts, wharves and swimming I baths (13). "Everything was well organised and ready to boom when the Depression descended and for many years there was little I interest in buying land anywhere, on the island or mainland... an expression meant to indicate something pretty I worth1ess... (was said to be) as valuable I 5. Spearritt, P. Gp Cit., 46 6. Palm Beach Subdivision Boxes 7. Ibid. I 8. Swancott, C. Dee Why to Barrenjoey., 126 9. Palm Beach Subdivision Boxes 10. Ibid. I 11. Ibid. 12. Ibid. I 13. Ibid. I I ~I

25· I

as a block of land on Scotland Island." I (14) • The Depression put an end to the real estate speculators and allowed for the change to a broader I social spectrum holiday area. This change in emphasis is evidenced by the development of establishments such as Barrenjoey House, a guest I house and restaurant, as well as the formation of numerous leisure facilities and associations. For example, in 1921 there was a resolution to form the Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Club and in 1924 the I Palm Beach Golf Club was formed. Newport Surf Life Saving Club was formed in 1933. I By the 1930s the townships were still largely undeveloped but the future direction of the area was encapsulated by a contemporary publication 1 advertising the district; "Within a comparatively few years, where Nature reigned in all its I primitive grandeur, there has been a very marked development. Modern transportation has ushered in a new I era, and settlement has been very rapid. Following the old coaching days to Rock Lily and Newport, where I, a trip into warringah Shire was a rural outing, came the electric tram service to Narrabeen. This inaugurated a period of activity I which has been intensified with the past few years, and land values, especially for sea frontages, have I reached phenomenal amounts. In every centre in the shire there has been expansion, and thriving towns give promise of bigger things in the near I future... The potentialities of Warringah Shire are unbounded. Far sighted speculators have already I secured choice positions, but there are still thousands of sites for thee business man and home seeker, as well, in the estates which are I being rapidly subdivided. The finest garden suburbs in Australia will, with the completion of the North I Shore Bridge and railway development, be found within I Warringah Shire. It is a centre for 14. Corbett, A. Church Point and McCarr's 1 Creek. A Nostalgic Look at the Past., 27 1 I 1 26 li I, golden opportunities." (15) Advertisements for the area stressed the "numerous and popular surf beaches... most of them furnished 1 with complete and up-to-date life-saving equipment, I operated by efficient and enthusiastic Surf Clubs" or "the capacious rock baths for women and children" as well as the natural and man-made attractions I: including "beautiful Pittwater Bay with its numerous inlets for sailing, rowing, swimming and fishing (with) boats for hire at Church Point, Bay View, I, Newport and Pa'lm Beach" as well as golf links at Mona Vale, Avalon and Palm Beach (16). Pamphlets were produced advocating the health-giving I qualities of the area. For example one titled "Hiking for Health" , suggested a number of walks to Palm Beach, Avalon and Mona Vale (17). Contemporary descriptions conveyed Pittwater as a sanctuary from 1II the city; "(Pittwater) ...the peaceful playground of I a busy city: meet place to retire to adjust one's perspective when work grows wearisome and details assume wrong I' proportions" (18). In addition, the availability of transport was ,I: stressed for the potential holiday maker. However this still required a tram ride to Narrabeen and then a bus trip, "with modern parlour buses", to I~ Mona Vale, Newport, Avalon, Bay View, Church Point, Bilgola, Whale Beach and Palm Beach (19). A proposal for a train service as far as Newport had been made in the 1920s but this never eventuated (20). From 1938 the tram service to Narrabeen ceased I and buses went directly from Manly (21).

1 During the first decade of this phase the wealthy 1 continued to build fine homes, although less in number than in the preceding phase. Houses such as I' "Willeroon" (1923), "Northview" (1923), "Mandalay" 15. Joubi1ee Souvenir of the Municipality of Manly 1877 - 1927 I 16. Ibid. 17., ,Hiking for Health Explore Manly, Frenchs Forest, warringah. 1936 I, 18. "Pittwater Lovely Arm of the Hawkesbury" sydney Mail 28.12.1938., 12-13 19. Joubilee Souvenir of the Municipality of Manly 1877 I - 1927 20. Jennings, G. The Newport Story., 56 1 21. Corbett,A. Gp Cit., 5 I I I I 27

I (early 1930s), "Skye" (early 1930s), "Villa d' Este" (1933) and "Wendy" (1936) were built during this period but the Depression also curbed this phase of I deve~opment (22). More typical of development during these years was the growth of the small towns. For example, in 1927, I Mona Vale had achieved a population of 350 with 114 houses (23). In 1928 Newport had twenty houses, a hotel, public school, large motor garage and two shops. Within half a mile of the post office were I seventy houses. Within half a mile of the beach were three shops, an estate agents, a butcher's shop, 150 houses, a refreshment room and cabaret. I Significantly, approximately 40% of the houses were occupied only on weekends and holidays (24).

A 1927 report on the development of Warringah stated I that; "A large proportion of the houses are of I new fangled fibro cement construction and many of them don't profess to be I more than week-end cottages." (25). An annual report for 1935 described building operations as "almost approaching a mild boom" (26) and the shire population figures reflect this I development; 4900 in 1914, 13,400 in 1924 and 18,000 in 1937 (27). I In addition, more public utilities were established. For example, schools at Oxford Falls (1928) and Ava10n Beach (1950); st Michae1s Church of England (1924); a post office at Newport beach (1928) and a I temporary office at Ava10n (1933). An automatic telephone exchange was switched on in 1934 and electric light and a city water supply was I established to the peninsula during the 1930s. The progressiveness of the area is exemplified by the formation of an "Advancement League" during this I decade. The 1940s and 1950s saw the development of more I recreational facilities to- complement the trade such

22·. Steege, J. (ed) OF Cit., 62 - 64 I 23. Swancott, C. OF Cit., 83 24. Sharpe, A. OF Cit., 108 25. Quoted in Spearritt, P. OF Cit., 43 I 26. Annual Report December 1935 Barrenjoey Peninsula Advancement League. 27. 150th Anniversary Celebrations Manly 1788 - 1938 I Souvenir programme I I I I 28

I as bowling clubs, surf clubs, yacht clubs etc. Some land subdivisions were created during this period, for example the Hollywood estate offered near Bungan Head (an earlier division of 1936) and a subdivision I on Newport Heights in 1949 (28).

Transportation and access to the area still remained I the key problem. Bus services had been establisQed from Newport but the journey still remained lengthy. It was not until 1938 that a direct Wynyard to Palm Beach bus service was inaugurated. Some local 'I improvements were made to the roads; a quarry was established in 1935 for road making purposes (29).

I Along with the greater number of people both visiting and moving into the area a sense of history and the past emerged. In 1924 the first meeting was I held of Manly-Pittwater Historical Society. The society was responsible for the erection of a number of monuments commemorating past events. For example in 1929 a monument was unveiled on the Sand I Peninsula to commemorate the naming of Pittwater by Philip. In 1935 an obelisk was unveiled on the site of the first lighthouse. In 1939 a monument was I unveiled in Manly commemorating the first trip to Pittwater. In 1943 a monument was unveiled at McCarr's Creek to commemorate all the surveys of the I area from 1789 (30). Concern for the vanishing physical evide~ce of the past was also expressed as early as 1932 when the I original Church Point Chapel was demolished amidst great criticism (31). Concern for the natural environment was also evidenced by the purchase of I land at Avalon in 1937 by the Wildlife Preservation Society to form an Angophora reserve. This was opened in 1938 (32).

I Some minor industrial activity developed during this phase, some linked to the Depression. At Church Point, during the later 1920s or early 1930s, a team I of timber getters moved in. All the mature ironbarks were cut out on the slopes for use as telegraph poles, possibly between Mona Vale and Palm Beach. She-oaks were also cut out to be used in bakers' I ovens (33).

I 28 Palm Beach Subdivision Boxes 29. Annual Report December 1935 Barrenjoey Peninsula Advancement League. I 30. Gledhill, P. Op Cit., 2, 3, 121, 128 31. Corbett, A. Op Cit., 5 32. Gledhill, P. Op Cit., 143-44 I 33. Corbett, A. Op Cit., 22 I I I 29 I

In 1947 two oyster leases were granted at McCarr's I Creek for catching spat. The leases were located on the western shore and were permitted shore farming for up to 50 metres from the HWM. They consisted of I rows of tarred sticks laid on platforms. These lasted until the 1970s (34). I In 1959 a dredge was placed in McCarr's Creek with a high timber structure in the mangroves and a road leading to -it. A permissive occupancy was granted to dredge for sand. Considerable environmental damage I occurred before the removal of the operation in 1973 (35) . I The developments of this phase were the most dramatio for changing the character and quality of the study area since its initial exploration. A I local historian claimed that, lithe development of the area since then (WWI) has been fantastic, it has changed I from an outlying holiday resort centre to a densely settled residential area" I (36) • The latter, though, is more probably true of the succeeding years. During this phase all aspects of the study area changed. The social and economic I pattern developed from exclusively a resort for the wealthy to a wide spectrum holiday destination. The housing stock reflected the changing social I composition and usage of the area. Facilities and utilities were developed to meet the new demands of the area including transportation, services, I schools, post offices etc. The complete suburbanisation of the district and its role as a dormitory suburb of Sydney was completed I in the succeeding phase, largely due to the improved transportation systems. I I I

I 34. Ibid., 22-23 35. Ibid., 23 I 36. Swancott, C. Gp Cit., 10 I I I • 30 I

I 2.1.4 PHASE IV: 1950 -1988 I A COMMUTER SUBURB - EXCLUSIVITY "For a long time Palm Beach escaped the harsher realities of building, partly I because of the distance from the city and the general inconvenience of travel and also because only a relatively few affluent people could afford a second I home. For a long time the settlement remained small with just a handful of shops providing necessities and houses I well screened in bush on large blocks of land. Since WWII the area has seen a distinct change in the pattern of I dwellers and there are now increasing numbers of commuters living permanently on the peninsula. The legacy we inherited is under attack from a more I mobile community." (1).

During this phase the area finally became part of I the urban context and it was now viewed as a viable dormitory suburb of Sydney although it still retained its leisure time qualities. 'In this phase land prices acted to create a certain exclusiveness I in the study area as the above quotation demonstrates. However, some light industry moved in and transport to the city greatly improved. More I urban facilities were provided for the residents sometimes, as demonstrated by recent events, against their will.

I The development of the study area during this time is more concerned with suburbanisation. It was a period that coincided with generally favourable I housing trends. "Economic development boomed after the I war in response to a host of factors. The resulting full employment facilitated the entry of prospective home owners into long term financial I commitments such as the purchase of a home. Finally it appears that which had remained a myth for most suburban I families - a home of one's own - could

I 1. Steege, J. (Ed). Palm Beach 1788 - 1988., 11-14 I I I I 31 I

I now become a reality." (2). The potential for suburbanisation of the area was made possible, finally, by the introduction of I reliable and direct transportation which coincided with a period when the car became available for the masses. The most important of these initiatives was I the construction of the Warringah Expressway, commenced in 1965. However transportation,' particularly within the area, had begun to improve by the 1950s. For example by 1955 regular ferry I services had be~n established around the peninsula (3). A bus depot was opened at Mona Vale in 1970. I The effect on the district is demonstrated by the rapid development of local facilities. At Church Point in the 1950s,

I "The area developed quickly. The Pasadena was revamped a couple of times ending up as a motel with a restaurant and several I shops beneath. Storekeepers changed, a reliable ferry service was established and a rival service station started in I opposition. Work boats and barges operated for the cartage across the water of building materials. Costin's old store and boatshed became a I mini-market with take-away food and post office.". (4) I At Newport the population had increased to 1200 by 1949 and escalated to 3000 during seasonal periods. Housing construction escalated to meet this influx and there were ten resident builders in the town I during the mid 1950s (5). There were also, at one stage, nine real estate agents (6). Between 1947 and 1961 Warringah increased its population by 187% from I 32,856 to 94,440 (7).

The popularity of the area resulted in escalating I land prices. A block purchased for eighty pounds in

2. Kass, T. "Cheaper Than Rent: Aspects of the Growth I of Owner-Occupation in Sydney 1911 ­ 1966" in Sydney City of Suburbs M. Kelly (Ed)., 89. 3. Burgess, Cruise-guide Broken Bay and the I Hawkesbury River 1955., 26 4. Corbett, C. Church Point and McCarr's Creek., 7 5. Jennings, G. The Newport Story., 64 I 6. Sharpe A., Manly to Palm Beach., 108 7. Allport, C. "Castles of Security. The NSW Housing Commission and Home OWnership 1941 ­ 1961" in Sydney I City of Suburbs M. Kelly (Ed)., 103. I I I 32 I

1941 was valued at 1500 pounds in 1964 and a good I house with a good view cost between 12,000 and 18,000 pounds (8).

I As early as the 1950s the area was perceived to be a place for the wealthy; I "There is little class distinction in recreation. The rich tend to go to the northern beaches Newport, Avalon, Whale Beach... Palm Beach - while the I workers throng the yellow sands of Bondi, Coogee and Maroubra; but you cannot tell a man's income in a pair of I swimming trunks and the Pacific surf is a mighty leveller." (9)

, The same sentiments were expressed in 1964 when it I was claimed that, " ...in particular Palm Beach, had I suffered from an inrush of 'nouveau riche'. Palm Beach is very cliquey. Beneath its informal air of gaiety I snobbery is rampant ... and only among the young, sporting in the surf or on the beach, does it seem to disperse." I (10) By 1971 it could be stated that, I "The town hamlets (of Church Point and Bay View) by any standards are wealthy and exclusive. One stretch of road is I known as 'Millionaires' Row'" (11). In a sense the resort of the 1920s had been restored I in the post war years. By 1960 it could be claimed that "comparatively few of the houses are used as week-enders" (12); a clear I statement of the suburbanisation of the district. The 1961 census showed a ratio of 3.7 resident workers to each local job in Manly Warringah. This I was the highest percentage for any Sydney district 8. McNicholl, D. "The Palm Beach story Very Cliquey" The Bulletin 8.2.1964., 13-15 I 9. 1958 Quoted in Spearritt, P. Sydney Since the Twenties., 219 10. McNicholl, D. "The Palm Beach Story Very Cliquey" The Bulletin 8.2.1964.,13-15 I 11. Sunday Australian 28.11.1971 12. Hoxton, E. and Foot, R. Palm Beach Souvenir Guide I 1960 I I I 33 I

I (13) • It is a reflection of the number of increased job opportunities afforded by the increase of local I industry and retail in the area during this period. For example, in the period 1962 - 1967, engineering works, car repair and spraying shops, boat builders, I a drug manufacturer, clothing manufacturer, plast~cs works and a timber yard were established in the district (14). This is in addition to an increased I retail sector. In addition to industry more urban utilities such as schools were established (Loquat Valley School Bay I View in 1947, Avalon Public School in 1950, Pittwater High in 1962, Sacred Heart Infants in 1965, Barrenjoey High in 1968). More churches were I built ( st Davids Anglican Palm Beach in 1958 and Newport Beach Church of st Michael and All Angels in 1960). Avalon Beach post office opened in 1964. A fire brigade station was established in 1967 and I Mona Vale District Hospital in 1964. In 1966 Mona Vale Hotel/Motel, including a large shopping centre, was established. During 1987/88 a new shopping I facility has been opened at Palm Beach, attracting in its planning stages much criticism from local residents. In addition to these, the navy established facilities in Pittwater during the I 1950s. The development of leisure activities continued to I keep pace. The Pacific Club, Palm Beach, was opened in 1954, Mona Vale Bowling Club in 1957, Avalon Beach Bowling and Recreation Club 1958 and Mona Vale Memorial Hall in 1966. In 1962 a Bible Garden was I begun at Palm Beach, one of many parks and gardens developed for recreation. In 1966 Palm Beach Golf Club extended its boundaries. In 1971 a 243 boat I marina was built at Church Point and in 1980 a two million dollar boat launching ramp was opened at Bay I View. By the later 1960s it could be said that, "A very extensive development has taken I place in the whole area over recent years particularly in such spheres as business, tourist traffic and I residential activity... The building growth of the district has been enormous I particularly during the last five years. 13. Quoted in Spearritt, P. Op Cit., 132 I 14. Swancott, C. Dee Why to Barrenjoey., 83 I I I 34 I

I Homes have been built in every type of allotment as well as a large number of home units on the beach front and nearby I areas." ('15). This rapid development, however, caused some concern for the effect on the environment. In 1963 a Shire I of Warringah Planning Scheme was adopted. By' 1971 it was Council policy to allow no further subdivision on the western shores of Pittwater (16). In 1972 Warringah Shire Council froze home unit development. I This eased in 1978 (17). In 1984 a Draft Environmental Plan was put on exhibition which recommended for actions such as the zoning of Palm I Beach almost entirely for single dwellings and open space and recreation (18). I Active measures have been taken for items of the built and natural heritage. For example, a Permanent Conservation Order was placed on "Hy Brasil" at Clareville in 1981 and a dune stabilisation I programme has been initiated at Palm Beach. Unfortunately there have been great losses in this area during this phase. In 1976 the Customs House I site was destroyed by fire. "It is a matter for regret that so many of the old houses have disappeared. Fire I in many· cases in the days of hurricane lamps and even bush fires account for some ... but then came progress allied to I lack of interest in the old places which.. fell prey to the developers ... During the past decade (1970s) not all I of the new houses built have harmonized with the old originals but lately there has emerged an interesting trend towards I older architectural forms ." (19). The current desirability of the area as a place to live is reflected in the increased land prices and I the local concern for the preservation of the environmental heritage. In response to this concern and as part of a state wide move to establish planning for this aspect Warringah Shire Council has I commissioned a heritage study of the area. I

15. Ibid., 83 I 16. Manly Daily 25.8.1977 17. Sharpe, A. Gp Cit., 139 18. Steege, J. (Ed)., Gp Cit., 110 I 19. Ibid., 71 I I I 35 I

I 2.2 HISTORIC THEMES I 2.2.1 TOPOGRAPHY Landform I The topography of the peninsula was one of the most decisive factors in the development of European settlement in the area. There is very little level land. Steep slopes are formed by the Bilgola and Bay I View Plateaux and small plateaux, ridges and gUllies are common. Swamps and lagoons were also features along with the sand dunes at, for example, I Barrenjoey. The peninsula form itself, allied with the topography within it, limited traffic to specific channels. However, some pockets of arable I land were available for cropping and the area, cleared of vegetation, permitted grazing. I Influence on Settlement Despite the difficult terrain the initial assessments of the area concluded that there were I several areas suitable for cultivation. These were all on the lower slopes where, after the timber cover had been cleared (and utilised), grass cover suitable for grazing could be established or the I local soil exploited for cereal or orchard cropping. However, the nature of the area, limited resources and difficult access, precluded intensive I settlement. For most of the nineteenth century the area remained sparsely settled. The scenery which has resulted from the topography I has always been a major attraction for the district (cf Section 2.2.2). In particular it has attracted the wealthy who have built homes to take advantage. I of the natural attractions. Later settlement has utilised the slopes and plateaux to exploit the views and vistas. The topography, however, has also I influenced this development, favouring a particular socio-economic group. As it has been noted, "With only a limited area of level land, I and most of that already alienated, the remaining hillside allotments, though permitting superb scenic views, present I structural building problems involving costs beyond the pockets of less I affluent people." (1) I 1. Swancott, C. Dee Why to Barrenjoey., 10 I I I 36 I

I Access The development of the study area is most closely linked with the availability, or otherwise, of I transport. The latter has been subject to the topographical problems of the peninsula. The difficult terrain severely limited the development I of roads and tracks. A single main track had been established by 1822 and for most of the first half' of the nineteenth century this remained the prime I means of communication. The steep terrain, however, also limited the types of communication; single horseback was the most I effective means of navigating the terrain for most of the nineteenth century. This also ensured that portions of the area were not even extensively explored until the second half of the nineteenth I century. There are a number of descriptions of travelers' journeys to the district during the later nineteenth century and all stress the difficulty of I access as well as the beauty of the scenery. The remoteness and uncertainty of what the area contained increased the common perception of the 1I area as mysterious and romantic. The situation of the northern portion of the study area to the Hawkesbury settlement has also been I influential. As a port was required for the local trade it enoouraged the development of the Customs House and the degree of shipping resulted in the I construction of the lighthouse. The effect of this factor was to focus early settlement towards the Hawkesbury trade rather than south towards Sydney. Strong ties towards the greater metropolitan area I were not achieved until technological changes in transportation, and better roads, were able to I overcome the topographical challenges. I I I I I I I I I 37

I 2.2.2 TRANSPORTATION Transportation, or lack of, has been as ,decisive a factor on the development of the study area as the I topography and is, indeed, closely inter-related to the former. I Effects on Settlement For most of the nineteenth century the peninsula was mainly accessible by water. Early settlement focused I towards the north where river trade came down the Hawkesbury and the earliest industrial enterprises of the area were concerned with, amongst others, :1 ship building. Later in the century steamers still provided the major means of transport to the picnic destinations at Newport. The lack of available and ,I reliable land transport, mostly occasioned by the circumstances of topography, precluded intensive settlement until well into the twentieth century.

I A single road was in existence by 1822 and for mo~t of the first half of the century remained the primary means of access and communication for the I area. Contemporary descriptions, however, of the state of this road, at times a "bridle track", clearly indicate that it was difficult to navigate and precluded heavy traffic, a drawback to I settlement. It was not until the 1860s and 1870s that I alternative means of land based access, in the form of sealed Barrenjoey and Pittwater Roads, became available. Coaching runs were established to service I the district. The increased access encouraged more settlement and it is certainly no coincidence that the earliest real estate speculation dates to this period. The often made promise, never fUlfilled, of I a train or tram line to the peninsula also encouraged land speculation. The extension of a tram terminus to Narrabeen, which met with coaches or I buses to reach the peninsula, was the beginning of the district's "availability" to the general public. I The greater availability of transport during the 1920s onwards "sold" the area as a holiday retreat. From the 1930s bus services were available and local I efforts were made to improve the roads. These improved roads meant that, during the twentieth century, motor cars and buses could reach the I peninsula. However, as the car was affordable only by the wealthy until the 1940s-1950s, it was inevitable that permanent settlement in the area was I generally limited to that economic group while the I I I I 38

I less affluent could only afford holidays and week ends by making the tram trip to Narrabeen and catching a bus and hiring a boat thereafter. It was not until the car became affordable by the masses I that the peninsula was opened up as a dormitory suburb. This also depended on the construction of new and better roads. The latter did not occur until I the middle to later twentieth century. Isolation

I The isolation induced by the limited transportation encouraged a certain degree of lawlessness in the 1I district. Smuggling and "agrarian outrages" became common and, because of the terrain affording such useful cover, difficult to control. The area gradually acquired a reputation and this further I inhibited settlement during the nineteenth century. It also added to the mystery surrounding the district in the public eye.

I The expanding communication network of steamers, roads, telegram services and the like, established during the later nineteenth century, broke down the I isolation experienced during most of that century. The advent of the car, coach and bus during the next century completed the process.

I Isolation has been beneficial to the environment. The low key settlement of the nineteenth century did not greatly intrude into the natural values of the I area as it did so in many other areas. Early and mid twentieth century settlement has also respected the environment, if exploiting it for inflated land I prices. It has only been during recent decades, as the district has become more accessible, that extensive damage has begun to occur in both the I natural and built environment. I I I I I I I I 39 I

I 2.2.3 SCENIC VALUES Early Appreciation

I Governor Phillip's exclamation that Pittwater was "the finest piece of water (he) ever saw" was the first of many superlatives made about the district. I Even early surveyors were moved to record items such as "romantic" creeks and it was likened to Arcadia (1). As one local historian has noted, though, the early settlers took up their abodes here "for the I sake of the produce of the land rather than the beauty of the scenery" (2). I The earliest visitors to the peninsula were all struck by its scenery and beauty. One traveller stated that,

I "for diversity of scenery... I will venture to affirm cannot be equalled in so short a distance as thirty miles in I any part of Australia and will well repay the trouble of the journey. It (3) I Others were moved to contemplate the "wild Salvator Rosa landscape" (4) or were reminded of the Itlake scenery ,in the old land" (5). The dedication of Ku-Ring-Gai Chase in 1894 encapsulated the public ,I appreciation of the scenic values of this area.

I Later Interest and a "Selling Point" By the end of the nineteenth century, after the beginning of land speculation in the area, other I attractions such as fishing, climbing, boating and "botanising" came to be appreciated and used as a selling point along with the scenery. In 1900 it was I said to be,

" ... a beautiful district a perfect I paradise of delights to the man fond of scenery and the open air, of fishing and

I 1. Govett on McCarrs Creek., 1830 quoted in Swancott, C. Dee Why to Barrenjoey., 84 2. Ibid., 18 I 3. "A Trip Overland to Broken Bay the Mouth of the Hawkesbury." SMH 6.4.1861.,4 4. "My Holiday" SMH 5.8.1861., 2 5. "An Adventurous Trip to the Hawkesbury" Town I and Country Journal 24.11.1883., 979 I I I I 40 I

I Climbing and botanising and boating." ( 6) •

During the major period of land speculation, between I 1880 - 1920 and as part of the tourism drive of the later years to 1950, the scenic attractions of the area were the main selling points for tourism and I real estate. Land was sold on the basis of its being "in the district of extensive sea-scapes" (7) or as being the "Rhine of Australia or the"Riviera of Australia" or, less ambitiously, "the most beautiful I estate in New South Wales". I Tourists were lured by vivid descriptions: "warringah Shire forms a magnificent estate, one of the most beautiful in the world. It reaches out from the rocky I headlands of Queenscliff and Harbord in glorious panoramas of golden sands, foam flecked surf, woodland dells, flowery I forests and picturesque lakes to distant Barrenjoey. The winding road from Manly leads through hills of verdant bushland I and vales of green, while the sapphire seas of the Pacific Ocean sing their glad anthem as they lap the golden sands of beaches... Nothing more beautiful I could be found than the perspective from this road...magnificent headlands and golden.bays succeed each other in grand I profusion whilst magnificent amphitheatres clad with Australian bush I form a most picturesque setting." (8) The value placed on such scenery, in association with the other at~ractions of the area, ensured that by the final phase of settlement the district had I become synonymous with expensive, advantageously sited homes. I I I 6. "In the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase" Sydney Mail 7.4.1900., 806-8 I 7. Whale Beach Real Estate Brochure Palm Beach Subdivision Boxes 8. Joubilee Souvenir of the Municipality of Manly 1877 I -1927 1 I- I 41 I

I 2.2.4 LEISURE AND TOURISM The topography and scenic values of the area, discussed in preceding sections, have ensured that I this area was particularly important for its leisure possibilities which, in turn, encouraged tourists I and holiday makers to come to the area. Sight-seeing began in the area as early as the' 1850s. One traveller at that time stated that, I "The toil worn citizen who is able to spare a few days ... will find it much cheaper, as well as more healthful (to I visit the district) ... than to visit the interior towns." (1) However, the restricted access and difficult terrain I stifled this pursuit until communications improved; By the later years of the nineteenth century attractions such as fishing, boating and climbing I were already appreciated as an integral part of the area and one of its attractions for prospective buyers. Linked to this was the idea, actively I promoted by the early twentieth century real estate agents, of the health giving qualities of the area. By the 1880s coaches had been established to Newport I and steamers took large crowds to the district for picnics and day trips. This activity encouraged the growth of hotels, boarding and guest houses as well I as providing a market for house letting. The area was promoted as one of the "finest fresh air resorts near Sydney" at the turn of the century (2). By the twentieth century lots in the area were sold to I buyers who were told "for your health's sake you should take as much healthy relaxation as I opportunity affords." (3) Twentieth century land sales .promoted the idea of buying a week-end cottage in the area to take I advantage of the local attractions. For example properties at Ocean Beach were sold as "one of the finest week-end estates ever offerea in Sydney­ property well worth investigation by every man and I woman who enjoys boating, fishing and bathing at I 1. "Pittwater, Brisbane waters and the Hawkesbury" SMH 30.1.1850., 2 2. "Picturesque NSW - Manly to Pittwater" Sydney Mail I 21. 6. 1890., 1368 I 3. Land Sale Brochure Palm Beach. Raine and Horne 1912 I I I il 42

their best" (4). This was encouraged by the I declaration of the "universal half day Saturday holiday" which allowed more people more leisure time. The eased restrictions concerning public I bathing also aided this process as well as generating interest in sea-side resorts. I The latter, in particular, encouraged the growth of facilities such as Council constructed rock baths and the formation of Life Saving Clubs to support the growing appreciation and involvement with water I sports. In addition to these facilities numerous other leisure based centres were developed to attract and cater for a wide market; golf clubs, I bowling clubs, boat hire businesses, yacht and sailing clubs, parks and gardens, tea rooms and even a cabaret at Newport. Walking brochures I detailed a number of hikes in the area. The leisure aspects of the area greatly influenced the development of the built environment. Not only I hotels, boarding houses and the like, housing stock very much reflected the usage of the area. At first dominated"by wealthy "beach houses" and retirement I homes, by the period of recreation and holiday makers, week-end cottages became a dominant element in the landscape. The escalating cost of land values ensured the growth of units, particularly on beach­ I side locations. I I I I I I I 4. Real Estate Brochure Ocean Beach Palm Beach I Subdivision Boxes I I I I 43

I 2.2.5 THE INFLUENCE OF THE REAL ESTATE SPECULATORS AND DEVELOPERS Until the later nineteenth century the study area I was sparsely settled and little visited. During the early 1870s a number of real estate auctions were attempted for land at Careel Bay. These were not I successful. This may be attributed to the lack .of support facilities, predominantly transportation. However, the sales did heighten interest and I awareness of the potential of the district. By the end of the nineteenth century circumstances had altered to support the development of real I estate speculation. Picnicers and day trippers had helped to open the area and create more interest, increased transportation made access more available and the 1880s had brought a boom in land prices and I sales. The depression of the l890s temporarily halted the momentum of the later years of the nineteenth century but from 1900 onwards land I speculation and development provided the drive for permanent settlement. I Promoting the area on its values of scenic attractions, leisure qualities and investment opportunities, large areas of undeveloped land were subdivided and sold over the entire peninsula. More I than any other factor, the latter changed the face of development in the area and provided the direction for twentieth century development. Real I estate speculation escalated during the holiday and recreation phase of 1920 - 1950. The increase in population brought about by this speculation I encouraged the development of services, better transport, facilities, townships and housing stock. I I I I I I I I I 44 I

I 2.2.6 INDUSTRY Industry has not been a dominant feature of the district throughout its history but it has provided I valuable economic support and impetus at various times. Mostly it has been related to the I exploitation of local resources. Early Industry The earliest "industry" 6f the area was agrarian I based; crop farming, orcharding and grazing. The products of this endeavour formed a valuable trading commodity with the settlers on the Hawkesbury. I Secondary industry began with Tnompson's boat building and salt works establishments on Scotland Island. Ship building in various forms was a feature of the nineteenth century in various locations. Salt I production by evaporation was also practiced at a number of locations. I Exploitation of the natural resources as a means of industrial endeavour is a feature of early industry in the area. Shell gathering, for transportation to I Sydney and reduction for lime, was a successful and reasonably extensive operation until the 1860s. Commercial fishing was also practiced at this time by a community of Chinese at Barrenjoey. The fish I were salted, packed and sent to Sydney and Melbourne. The business was very successful and incidentally supported, by its maintenance of an I informal supply depot, a number of local settlers. Timber-getting in various forms has been practiced since the 1830s. Timber was used at first for I kindling and shingles and other building materials. During the 1930s Depression it was used for I telegraph poles. Later Nineteenth Century Industry I Most of the industries mentioned above continued in some form throughout the later nineteenth century with the exceptions of salt production and shell gathering. One unsuccessful industrial venture I during these years, underlining the unsuitability of the area for heavy industry, was the abortive coal I drilling attempts on the Therry grant. Twentieth Century Industry I During the early years of this century the industrial element waned. Some minor industry was carried on through the depression years, mainly I timber getting, but it had become a very minor I I I I 45

I aspect of the district's development. Most industries of the earlier part of the century were directed, again, at exploitation of natural resources, sand dredging and oyster leases. Later I twentieth century industry has been directed at small urban businesses such as clothing manufacturers, plastics works and timber yards or I related to the leisure industry, for example surf board construction. I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I 46

I 2.2.6 A SENSE OF HISTORY As more people moved into the area and established homes a sense and appreciation of past history I emerged, exemplified by the formation of the local historical society during the 1920s. The society has been responsible for, and very active in, promoting I and making local history accessible to the' general community. A large number of monuments have been erected throughout the shire to commemorate various historical events relevant to the development of the I area.

Along with this sense of place and evolution has I been a growing practical demonstration of concern for the heritage of the area. As early as 1932 local residents expressed criticism of the decision to I demolish the original Church Point church. Active measures were also taken at this time to preserve remnants of the original vegetation; the formation I of the angophora reserve was directed to this end. This environmental concern and awareness has continued into the later twentieth century. Resident I action has been instrumental in preserving the qualities of the area. Local history has been actively promoted by the production of a number of local histories. Permanent conservation orders and I National Trust listings have been placed on a number I of items. I I I I I I I I I I 47 I

I 3.0 BIBLIOGRAPHY

Manly the Beautiful and Glorious I Warringah. The Official Illustrated Guide to Manly and Warringah Shire I The Port Jackson and Manly Steamship Co. 1935

I Newport Beach post Office ­ Official Post Office History Director of Posts and Telegraphs I Sydney N.D.

150th Anniversary Celebrations, I Manly 1788 - 1938: Historical Review of Manly and Warringah Souvenir Programme. I (ML F981.1/19)

Anderson,"M. "The Story of Pittwater" I JRAHS VI 1920., 161"- 197 Barrenjoey Annual Report 19~5 Peninsula (ML 981.306/1) I Advancement League

Cahill, J. Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Club, I 1921 - 1981 The First Sixty Years 2nd Edition I 1981 Corbett, A. Church Point and McCarr's Creek A Nostalgic Look at the Past. Claudette Moffatt I ND

Council of the Joubilee Souvenir of the I Municipality of Municipality of Manly 1877 - 1927 Manly 1927

E.B. Studios Bilgola - Gem of the Northern I Beaches Sydney I N.D. Gledhill, P. W. "Barrenjoey Headland and Lighthouse" Sea Land and Air Nov. 1921., 577 I -79 I Gledhill, P. W. Manly and Pittwater Its Beauty and I I r I 48

I Progress Warringah Shire Council 1946

I Hardie & Gorman Whale Beach Estate in the District of Extensive Sea-Scapes, Pittwater. Land Sale Brochure I 1918 (ML Q981.1/H)

Jennings, G. The Newport Story 1788 - 1988 I Aramo Pty Ltd. 1987

I Kelly, M. (Ed) Sydney City of Suburbs New South Wales University Press I 1987 McDonald, C.E. Stories of the Peninsula Manly Warringah Child and Henry Publishing Pty Ltd I 1980

McDonald, C. E. & The Manly Warringah story I Henderson, C.W.T. Paul Hamlyn 1975

MacDougall, T. & Manly - Warringah Sketchbook I Bishop, S. Sydney 1976

I McNicholl, D. "The Palm Beach Story - Very Cliquey" The Bulletin 8 February 1964., 13­ I 15 Myers, F. Beautiful Manly I N.D. Phillips, E. Hiking for Health - Explore Manly, Frenchs Forest and Warringah I Port Jackson and Manly Steamship Co. Ltd I 1936 Raine & Horne Palm Beach - Barrenjoey. Palm Beach Estate Land Sale Brochure I 1912 (ML Q981.3/R) I Rickard, A. & Co. By the Lake Pittwater - An Illustrated Description of One of the Finest Week - End estates Ever I Offered in Sydney. I I I 49

I 1910 (ML 981.3/R)

Sharpe, A. Pictorial Memories Manly to Palm' I Beach Atrand Pty Ltd I 1983 Spearritt, P. Sydney Since the Twenties Hale and Ironmonger I 1978 Steege, J. (Ed) Palm Beach 1788 - 1988 Palm Beach Association I 1984

Swancott, C. Dee Why to Barrenjoey I D.S. Ford 1967.

Vialoux, A (Ed) Manly and Warringah Shire I Local Government Publishing Co. 1922

I Wheeler, J.S.N. "The Early Days of Bayview, Newport, Church Point and McCarr's Creek, Pittwater" I JRAHS 1940., 318 - 340 Newspaper Daily Mirror 5 January 1966 Paragraphs Daily Telegraph 25 February 1971 I Manly Daily 21 May 1970. 23 May 1970 24 October 1970. I 9 November 1972 25 August 1977 28 July 1981 4 July 1981 I 28 November 1981 29 October 1983 Pacific Times 29 July 1971 I Sunday Australian 9 November 1971 (These paragraphs were extracted from the Manly and Pittwater I Historical Society card file which did not reference page numbers)

"In the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase" Sydney I Mail 7 April 1900., 806 - 808

I.. "Picturesque New South wales I Manly to Newport" Sydney Mail-21 June 1890., 1368 - 1375 I "Pittwater Lovely Arm of the I I 1 I 50

I Hawkesbury" Sydney Mail 28 December 1938., 12-13

Sydney Morning Herald 2 October I 1871., 2 28 January I 1870., 5 "Pittwater, Brisbane waters and the Hawkesbury" Sydney Morning I Herald 30 January 1850., 2-3 "A Trip Overland to Broken Bay, the Mouth of the Hawkesbury" I Sydney Morning Herald 6 April 1861., 8 "My Holiday" Sydney Morning Herald I 5 August 1861 p2., 12 August 1861 p2., 26 August 1861 p3., 2 September 1861 p3., 9 September I 1861 p3. "A Ride to Barrenjoey" Sydney I Morning Herald 22 March 1867., 5 "Lane Cove and Pittwater" Town and Country Journal 28 August 1880., I 402 "An Adventurous Trip to the Hawkesbury" Town and Country I Journal 24 November 1883., 977 Town and Country Journal 6 August I 1881., 272 Subdivision Boxes (ML) Avalon I Newport Palm Beach I Pittwater I I I I I

I ~~ ----~------1---­ I 51

I APPENDIX: CHRONOLOGY FOR WARRINGAH SHIRE I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I -I I 52

I CHRONOLOGY

I Phase I 7 May 1770 Captain Cook names Broken Bay but may have I been referring to Narrabeen. 21 Jan. 1788 Phillip lands at Manly. I 5 March 1788 Phillip names' Pittwater after William Pitt the Younger, then PM of England. Phillip's despatches record "immediately round the I Headland that forms the southern entrance into the bay there is a branch which I think is the finest piece of water I ever saw and I which I honoured with the name of Pitt water. It is, as well as south-west branch, of sufficient extent to contain all the navy of Great Britain but has only eighteen feet I at low water on a narrow bar which runs across the entrance". I 15 Ap. 1788 First exploration trip towards Pittwater from Manly by Phillip. Sept 1789 McCarrs Creek, waters of Bayview, Newport, I Church Point surveyed by Capt John Hunter. 1792 William Dawes walked from Manly to I Barrenjoey and published a map marking the land above Careel Bay as good pasture for I sheep. 1796 Aborigines at Broken Bay complain to governor of settlers driving them from tne river. Requested a certain portion of the I banks be assigned as their own. Governor agrees to this and it seems most congregated in Pittwater. Claims that many middens and I sites visible 1808 One of first farmers in the area Pat Flynn I growing vegetables under Barrenjoey . 1810 Constable Robert Mackintosh Sen. established at Pittwater growing wheat and potatoes and I grazing cattle. A completely isolated area. Up to 1842 wheat and oats the principal products of the area. By 1810 the area busy. I farming community. I 1810 Scotland Island granted to Andrew Thompson. I

'"------I ~--~~------I I 53

I Nov 1810 Ceremony to mark the launching of an 18 ton vessel at Scotland Island. The boat one of the first built in the colony called the I 11 Geordy" . 1812 Scotland island advertised in the Gazette as containing 120 acres of good soil, extensive I salt works, a good dwelling house ~nd stores, labourers rooms and every convenience suitable for a fishery or shipbuilding. Also a partly built vessel of I ninety tons in the stocks. John Dickson claimed ownership of the land. I 1813 Scotland Island again advertised for sale . I 1814 Scotland Island again advertised for sale . 1815 Scotland Island again advertised for sale now divided into 13 lots. I 16 Mar 1816 400 acres known as Larkfield Farm granted to James Napper on Sand Peninsula leading to Barrenjoey. This grant remained virtually I intact until 1900, the area virtually undeveloped. 1816 Macquarie inspected the farms at Pittwater I and nearby and published an abstract of land vacant and suitable for farming. None mentioned at Pittwater which suggests that I all arable land taken by that time. 1819 Farm of 700 acres surveyed at Mona Vale for I Robert Campbell. ·1819 Constable sent to the district to preserve I order. 1819 Scotland Island, now the property of R.A. I Murray, advertised for sale. Not sold. 31 Mar 1821 50 acres to Henry Gasken with a frontage to Careel Bay. Grant made by Gov. Bourke on 6 I July 1833 . 1821 Peter Patullo who had 80 acres at Bay View had a house where Bay View Golf links are I now . 1821 . Daniel Foley occupies land on site of later I Rock Lily 1822 First Road from Manly to Sydney via I Pittwater and Gordon in existence. This ran I I I I 54

I through Brookvale via Miles'Gully. 1822 Bilgola farm advertised. I 1824 Land grants at Mona Vale. 29 Oct. 1827 Grant of 60 acres to John Farrell adjoining I Therry's 1400 acres. (At Avalon) 1829 Govett reported that on a visit to I Pittwater: "In the deep recesses of the neighbouring mountain, where the finest timber may be found, parties of shingle I splitters frequently resort... ". 1829 Up to this date heaps of shells were found in the creeks and a 'number of vessels were I engaged in gathering them. 1829 McCarrs Creek surveyed by Surveyor Govett I who described it as a "romantic creek". 1829 Therry's land surveyed. The portion near Careel Bay named the Township of Brighton I or Josephtown. 1831 Land grants at Crystal Bay. I 1832 Australian Directory reference records that at a point 1.5 miles south of the Hole-in-the-Wall the various features along I the Pittwater Road were: "At 14 miles the Rev. Joseph Terry has a grant here, At 14 1/2 miles the Hole-in-the-Wall being a rock I projection forming a rough archway with the shore. A little further on is a remarkable cave in the sea cliff. At 15 miles, on the left is Careel Bay, where there are two I small farms and cottages. At 19 1/2 miles, Barrenjoey. A rocky peninsula extending east and west and joined to the mainland by a I narrow isthmus of sand. This remarkable spot is inhabited by three old fishermen who supply the farmers of the Hawkesbury, as far as the river admits of navigation. They also I ferry travellers across to Brisbane Waters." I 1832 Land grants at Mona Vale. 1830s At Salt Pan Cove salt obtained by condensing sea water in a large iron tank. Shipbuilding I also carried on here. 1830s Grants at Careel Bay, Newport, Salt Pan Point, Taylors Point, Stokes Point, Mona I VAle, Currawong Beach, Great Mackerel Beach I I I I 55 I 29 JUly 1832 Letter of James Larmer Surveyor General records the measurements of farms at Pitt water: 12 properties varying from 200 to 40 I acres.

30 Oct. 1832 200 acres granted to Robert McIntosh at Bay I View bounded by 40 acres to Robert McIntosh Jnr, 80 acres to Jeremiah Bryant and P. Patullos 80 acres.

I 1832 Thomas Langford applied for 40 acres within half a mile of Church Point.

I 31 Aug. 1833 1200 acres granted to the Rev. Therry in fulfillment of a promise of 1825. Received a further 200 acres adjacent to this grant in I 1837. Total area of the two grants was from Whale Beach on north to Newport on south, from Pittwater on west to Pacific on east and included the now district of Whale I Beach, Careel Bay, Saltpan, Clareville, Avalon and Bilgola. I 6 July 1833 Thomas Warner received 50 acres on the peninsula that divides Pittwater from Careel Bay.

I 15 Aug. 1834 640 acres to William Lawson at Lamberts Peninsula leading from McCarrs Creek to west Head. A number of other early grants here as I well •

1842 William Oliver secures 30 acre lease at I Lovett Bay. Cuts timber onit. 25 Ap 1843 On the flat below the lighthouse near a I jetty was opened the Customs House. 18 May 1843 Grant of 60 acres to John Farrell at Long I Beach Newport. 23 May 1843 John Dickson died leaving Scotland Island to his sons.

I May 1846 Commissioners of Customs in London reported that the Broken Bay (Barrenjoey) Customs House had been successful in checking the I smuggling which had been rife previously .

30 Jan. 1850 Letter in SMH reports a visit to Pittwater I where houses of the men employed in shell gathering had been abandoned in consequence of the shell beds being exhausted. Mentions I that it is little frequented by people from I I 56

Sydney. 1853 Land grants at Mona Vale. I 1855 Joseph Benn and Charles Jenkins each rent a portion of Scotland Island as farmers. I 17 Nov. 1855 First reference to a light displayed from Barrenjoey Head in a WB building. 1860 Father Therry begins exploration for coal on I his grant (bore on the s-e corner of the Avalon Golf links). Used elderly men and I hutted them here. A dismal failure. 6 April 1861 Newspaper report records the difficult journey to Pittwater and mentions the Chinese community which dries fish for the I Sydney market. Established at Palm Beach near the jetty. I 31 May 1861 The Newport Road to Barrenjoey Road gazetted July 1861 Article titled '''My Holiday" in SMH describes I the area. Impression of great wilderness and fairly difficult terrain. Describes Mona Vale Farm as long low slab building faced with weatherboards. Also mentions I outbuildings and cultivated areas. Mentions othe~ small farms in the area on Therry's grant. Describes shell gathering at Careel I Bay and three small huts. Refers to the Chinese fishing community who also kept the only depot on the peninsula for the supply of tea and sugar. Described the Custom I House, mens huts, boat house, jetty paved paths and seat on the summit as well as the I wooden "sentry soldiers". 8 Nov. 1861 Road to Pittwater established in 1822 gazetted; made a slight diversion from the I original track meeting the latter at Brookvale. 1862 Original timber Customs House replaced by I substantial stone structure. A boatman's cottage, boathouse and stone jetty also I built. 1863 Father Therry explores for coal near Bilgola Head. A 220 ft shaft sunk. Located on what I is now the Avalon Golf links. 1863 Mona Vale farm, after lying vacant for some I time after the murder of Foley the original I I I 1 57

resident, rented by James Therry nephew of 1 the Rev. T but it was burnt before he could occupy it. Some considerable lawlessness at I this time. 1867 Newspaper report states that of Pittwater "it is evident that a large portion of the 1 land was under cultivation at one time." Goes on to say that it is no longer so because of lawlessness and it deters some I from settling there . 10 July 1867 Motion carried in Parliament to erect a 1 lighthouse at Barrenjoey. 1868 McCarrs Creek surveyed by Capt Sydney who 1 called it Pitt Inlet. August 1868 Completion of two white towers (20 and 12 feet), 390 feet apart costing 300 pounds established at Barrenjoey. Temporary fixed I white lights installed. Named Stewart Towers 1869 First suggestion to have a railway to 1 Pittwater. Nothing came of it; 1869 Telegraph line under construction from 1 Castle Hill to Barrenjoey . 1860s- 1880 Land around McCarrs Creek bought and settled I in small isolated pockets . 1 Jan. 1870 Telegraph office opened at Barrenjoey in 1 Custom House. 1870 Customs House disbanded. 1 Nov. 1870 Pittwater Road surveyed. 1870s Reference to Shaw Brothers building ketches I at Bay View. 1871 Real estate auction of Marine Village Brighton (Josephtown) Pittwater. I. 1871 William Oliver granted land near Church Point. 1 1 Aug 1871 Post Office opened at Barrenjoey. 21 Sept.1871 st John the Baptist Church opened at 1 Pittwater. A wooden building 30' x 16' on land overlooking the ocean on Newport Road. An adjoining cemetery neglected and I forgotten. Said at the time to be the first I I I I 58

I erected in that part of the colony. ~872 Small weatherboard Methodist chapel built at I Church Point giving the area its name . 12 Ap 1872 Approval given for the establishment of Barrenjoey Public School close to the I Customs House. Opened that year with.23 pupils. 1874 Plans prepared for a permanent stone I lighthouse at Barrenjoey . I 1877 Road surveyed from Mona Vale to Church Point 28 Ap 1877 Real Estate Auction of East Brighton I Oct. 1877 Barrenjoey Road surveyed Nov. 1877 Bay View Road surveyed

I 1879 Contract let for the construction of the present lighthouse at cost of 16,695 pounds. I 1879 Charles Edward Jeannerett who owned Parramatta and River Steamers Co. decided to extend services; resulted in building a pier I running into Pittwater at Newport. I I I I I I I I I I ------, I I 59

I Phase II 28 Aug. 1880 Newspaper report mentions only one house at Newport but it was very "eligible for a I township"

1880 Jeannerett acquires land at Newport (former I Basett-Darlley estate) and built what later became the Newport Hotel. Also acquired a small local steamer and the mail contract. I Also began a coach' service between Manly and Newport. This led to the development of Newport around the pier and hotel. I 1880 McCarrs Creek Trig station erected. 1880 Newspaper report says that a journey to Palm I Beach was "not an odyssey to be undertaken lightly" because of the difficulty of transport .

I 15 Ap 1880 Foundation stone laid at Barrenjoey lighthouse. I 1880s Jenkins and Benn gain title to Scotland Island . I 1880 WB Newport Hotel opened. 1880 Waterview Estate (41 acres) granted at I Church Point to Mr Brown. 1880 New Marine Township of Brighton surveyed. I 1880 - 1888 Grants made along McCarrs Creek, Lovett Bay, Towlers Bay and Church Point. 20 July 1881 Lighthouse completed, designed by James I Barnet. First light a fixed dioptric red.

8 Sept 1881 Govt purchased sand peninsula leading ~o I Barrenjoey, formerly part of Larkfield Farm grant. I 1881 Villa sites offered at Careel Bay. 21 Aug. 1882 Post Office opened at Bay View. I 1883 Trig station established on the hill above Church Point. I Jan 1883 Bay View Estate surveyed . 1884 Barrenjoey Trig Station near the Signal Mast I at the lighthouse in existence by 1884. I I I I 60

I 1884 Pittwater Public School opens at Bay View . c. 1886 Rock Lily Hotel at Mona Vale reconstructed I in brick. 8 Nov. 1886 Therry's grant sold to W.T.A. Shorter. I 1884 - 1888 Church Point chapel also used as a school The only school in the district. 25 Feb. 1887 A block dedicated as site for a new school I at Church Point

1887 Wharf built at Church Point and Jim Booth I opened a store and let boats for hire. 1887 Visit by postal inspector at Newport reports I that little development evident. Reported that some land had been sold a few years earlier but there was no township and no I buildings except a dilapidated hotel. 1888 Newport surveyed. I 1888 Pittwater Public School (brick ) and residence opened.

28 Feb. 1888 Barrenjoey Public School closed and pupils I sent to Bay View Public.

25 Mar 1888 st John the Baptist Church moved from first I location by bullock dray to Bay View Road because of parishioners moving away from I earlier location. April 1889 Newport School opened. I 22 Dec. 1888 Telegraph office. opened at Newport . 21 May 1889 Letter from Tourist Bureau states that the traffic from Manly to Newport during 1887-8 I slightly in excess of 2000 with an increase in traffic between 50-70%. It was common practice to charter steamers for trips to I Newport and on more than one occasion more than 1200 passengers had been conveyed in one day.

I 30 Nov. 1889 "Unofficial" post office opened at Newport . 1889 Act of Parliament passed to authorise I construction of railway to Pittwater and tram to Manly but did not gain local support I 1890s Shaw Brothers building ketches at Shaws I I I I 61

I Creek Bayview. By 1890 Tourist agencies established and houses let. I 1890 Newspaper report mentions one hotel and one boarding house at Newport. Mentions how I popular it has become in recent years 1891 Palm Beach telephone exchange opened with" four subscribers. I 1892 Pittwater Public School name changed to Bay View School.

I 14 Feb. 1892 Sydney "pushes" of young men and women terrorise Newport but on this day defeated by hired toughs. Newport returns to quietly I doze. 30 Sept 1892 First inspection made of area to be known as I Ku-Ring-Gai Chase. 1893 Bay View Post Office created a telephone I office 1893 Crown land sale at Mona Vale for village of Turimetta.

I 14 Dec. 1894 Ku-Ring-Gai dedicated as a national reserve I 1894 Barrenjoey School closed. 8 Nov. 1900 CT issued covering the Chase. I 31 Dec. 1900 Custom House at base of Barrenjoey closed . 1900 New stone school opened at Newport. I 1900 Barrenjoey Land Company purchased for 500 pounds all the land between Palm and Whale Beach (ie the Napper grant). Divided it into I 18 blocks some over 74 acres. Put up for auction but none sold. A sale pamphlet described the blocks as "good level grazing I country" . 1900 Part of Therry grant resold. I 1901 Bay View Wharf, near P.O. built.

1904 Population of Newport 100 and claimed to be I a very busy place. I May 9 1904 Barrenjoey Post Office closed . I I I 62 I

Sept 1905 Real estate auction Scotts Green Point I Newport and Crystal Bay 24 July 1905 P.C. receiving office opened in a Mona Vale I store

1905 Description of ~ona Vale "There is a I considerable settlement including two stores in the vicinity of Mona Vale... " I 1905 Newport population 100. 7 March 1906 Boundaries of Shire proclaimed. I 14 June 1906 First meeting of nominee Warringah Shire Council. July 1906 Pittwater (Bay View) School closed, pupils I transferred to Mona Vale opened in that year in rented premises. I October 1906 Scotland Island surveyed for auction 10 Nov. 1906 . Scotland Island put up in 121 lots for I Public Auction. 22 Nov. 1906 Last meeting of nominee Council. Elections I for representative council preceded this. 3 Dec. 1906 First meeting of elected Council. I 1906 Report states that "new subdivisions in the vicinity of the Rock Lily Hotel (Mona Vale) and that blocks of land of approximately 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 acres were selling for about 18 I to 20 pounds". I 1906 First Pittwater regatta held 1906 Land auctions at Mona Vale I 1906 First motor bus service between Manly and Newport.

1907 Improved capital value of ratable lands I 223,000 Pounds.

4 Feb. 1907 New stone st John the Baptist Church opened I at Mona Vale . 1907 Track made from McCarrs Creek to Coal and I Candle Creek . I 1907 Brock estate auctioned I I I ---~- I 63

I 1 Jan. 1909 Church Point Post Office opened. 1910 Report states that Mona Vale had "one hotel, I two stores and a bakery". 1910 Real estate brochure for By the Lake describes the great fishing etc and states I that "the demand for weekend lots by the water is growing wonderfully and the enforcing of the universal Saturday half holiday in Sydney is going to make this the I greatest weekend year the city has ever known" . I 1909 Roche estate and Church point estate auctioned. I 1911 Pittwater Public School opened 1911 Mona Vale School opened I 16 Mar 1911 Real estate auction of By the Lake Pittwater (Church Point) in 25 blocks first owned by David Walker. Prior to the sale some I improvements were made in the form of retaining walls, jetties etc. Another sale of thirteen blocks in the same area was on an area of 40 acres taken as a conditional I purchase tenure from the crown in 1866. It was only minimally developed prior to the I subdivision. 1912 Improved capital value of ratable lands I 440,000 pounds. 26 Jan. 1912 Another sale on behalf of Barrenjoey Land Company. All the land sold . These fronted onto the ocean and Pittwater. One house in I existence from which ,sale took place. Still in existence. I 20 Apr 1912 Real estate auction Calverts Beach Newport and Mona Vale. 26 Dec. 1912 Real estate auction 2nd subdivision Palm I Beach for Barrenjoey Land Company. Much smaller blocks and more roads built; Florida Road, Sunrise and Palm Beach Roads all I named. Prospectus said "There will be a ready market for such land. Indeed once a purchaser you'll probably remain an owner ­ I this land will quickly be too costly to replace." It also mentioned surfing, bathing, sdiling, rowing, fishing, wild I natural scenery all under three hours from I I I I 64

I Sydney. Another four houses in existence. The first house built after the subdivisions was the Palm beach guesthouse, the only one at the time. Other houses followed all beach I front.

1912 Small wharf built just south of Observation I Point and a ferry service established from Newport to Palm Beach. I 1912 Auction brochure states "After toiling all week in your office...for your health's sake you should take as much healthy relaxation as opportunity affords and what better I means ... than owning an allotment at Palm Beach" I 1 Feb. 1913 Telephone office opened at Barrenjoey 1913 New brick P.O. at Mona Vale .

I 1913 Cabbage Tree Club Palm Beach commenced as private home for W. Chorley . I 1913 Part of Therry grant sold. 1913 Ayction at Newport

I 1914 Careel Ocean Estate offered for auction . I 1914 Unofficial P.o. at Palm Beach. March 1914 Telephone exchange opened at Newport. I 1914 Population of Warringah Shire 4900 1914 Clareville Beach estate auctioned I 1914 - 1915 Norfolk Island Palms planted on Palm Beach . I 1915 "Craigie-Lee" built at Palm Beach. c. 1915 "Florida House" Palm Beach built. Also many houses at "Pill Hill" (extending into 1918).

I 1915 - 1920 Touring cars from Narrabeen to Church Point I 1916 "Windyridge" built at Palm Beach. 19 Jan. 1917 Bushranger Hill estate sold at Public I Auction and land above Newport. 19i7 Work commenced on home which is now HQ for Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Club. I "Winbro Hill" Palm Beach built. I I I 65 I I 1918 Newport telephone exchange opened with seven subscribers. Palm Beach exchange also opened I with 4 subscribers. 10 Ap 1918 Real estate auction Lamberts Bayview and I Caree1 BAy. 6 Dec. 1918 WB church of st Joseph moved from Brighton (Josephtown) to Narrabeen .

I c. 1919 Group of Houses in Florida Road by Peddle (Pre 1920) and Thorpe: "Tidapa", "The Moorings", "Back I 0' 'Moon" 1919 "st Andrews Cottage" Palm Beach built.

27 Jan. 1919 Real estate auction Whale Beach . I Real estate auction Winji Jimie Newport .

1919 Land at Bungan Head purchased by Mr A.W. I Alvers. Shortly after this he built "Bungan Castle " from stone quarried on the spot . I c. 1919 Stone war memorial built at intersection of Barrenjoey and Pittwater Roads. By James I Booth . I I I I I I. I I I I I 66

I Phase III 1920 Waterview Estate Church Point subdivided. I 1920 The main road to Palm Beach from Newport completed. The Barrenjoey Road bitumenised. I 1920s Ocean Road/Beach Road continued to join up with the northern extremity of Barrenjoey' Road. I c. 1920 Nucleus of Bay View Golf Club established by Mr and Mrs Orr on their private property • I 10 Ap 1920 Real estate auction of Browns Blocks Pittwater and Ocean Beach. Also at Great MAckerel Beach but these failed to sell. I 1921 First subdivisions of land at Ava10n. il 1921 Resolution to establish the Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Club. First boat shed located middle of beach then loved to south end. I 1921 Auctions at Whale Beach, Soldiers Point, Tay10rs Point and Church Point. 1922 Local publication is lyrical about the I scenery and how unique it is and mentions the splendid public accommodation at Newport. Mentions the people "lucky enough I to build homes in the area". Improved capital value of ratable lands one million ~ounds.

I 1922 Land sold at Careel Bay, Great MAckerel Beach and Bilgola. I 1923 Barrenjoey House built as a guesthouse and restaurant Also "Willleroon". Also I "Northview" . 1923 Land auctioned at Taylors Point and Newport 21 Aug 1924 First meeting of Manly-Pittwater Historical I Society. I 21 Sept 1924 st Michaels Church of England opened. 1924 Palm Beach Golf Club formed . I 1924 Population of Warringah Shire 13,400 I 1924 Land subdiv~ed at Avalon and Bungan Head I I I I 67

I 1925 Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Club extended. 1925 Land sold at Sand Point I 1926 Warning Tower erected on Palm Beach. 1926 Johnstone's estates subdivided at Careel I Bay. 1927 Advertisement in Jubilee Souvenir describes the shire as the "Playground of Sunny New I South Wales" 'and "Beautiful Pittwater Bay with its numerous inlets for sailing, rowing, swimming and fishing. Boats and I launches for hire at Church Point, Bayview, Newport and Palm Beach". Also numerous and popular surf beaches, capacious rock baths, I golf links, motor bus services. 1927 Joubilee Souvenir spells out the natural attractions and the real estate importance I of the area. Includes good descriptions of woodland dells, flowery forests, foam f'lecked surf etc. Discusses land values I which have become phenomenal~ subdivisions, speculators etc 1927 Mona Vale had c. 114 houses and a population I of 350. 1927 Palm Beach Land Company owned all the land I from Avalon to Palm Beach. Engaged Jack Webster to build roads from Avalon to Palm Beach. A house built for him at Whale Beach. I At that time Whale Beach totally undeveloped 1927 Land sold at Sand Point I 1928 Active interest shown in forming a new shire north of Narrabeen called Pittwater Shire I but nothing came of it 1928 Description of Newport mentions 20 residences, a hotel, public school, large motor garage and 2 shops. Within half a mile I of P.O. were 70 residences. Within half a mile of the beach were 3 stores, estate agents, butchers shop, 150 residences, a I refreshment room and cabaret. About 40% of the homes were only occupied during weekends and holidays. I 12 Nov. 1928 Newport Beach P.O. opened as opposed to Newport P.O. Had a trunk line, telegram and I telephone facilities. In a general store. I j I ------I 68 I 1928 Oxford Falls Provisional school opens. I 1928 Auction for land at Whale Beach. 19 Jan. 1929 Monument unveiled at West Esplanade Manly to I commemorate Phillip's landing in 1788. 25 Sept.1929 Monument unveiled on the Sand Peninsula to commemorate naming of Pittwater by Phillip . I Later 1920s Timber cutting at Church Point for telegraph poles. Also big development at Scotland island by Mr Fitzpatrick; two roads, I Catherine Park, tennis court, three wharves, swimming baths but the depression killed off I interest. Early 1930s "Mandalay" Palm Beach built. Also "Skye". I 24 Jan 1930 Electric light switched on to the district . 7 June 1930 Oxford Falls School opens • I 21 Dec. 1930 Methodist Church services commenced in a private house. 1930 Palm Beach estate subdivided south of I Cabbage Tree Boat Harbour. April 1932 Church Point Chapel demolished amidst much I criticism. 6 Aug 1932 Barrenjoey light replaced by an unattended 1 automatic group flashing white light 15 May 1933 Avalon Beach Post Office established in a I temporary location at a store. 1933 "Villa d'Este" built ~alm Beach 1 18 Dec 1934 Automatic telephone exchange switched on 13 July 1935 Obelisk unveiled on the site of the first I lighthouse. 1935 Report of the local advancement league noted the considerable development of peninsula in I 1935; building operations "almost approach a mild boom". Also noted improvements to services, roads, transport. Noted a quarry I opened on Barrenjoey Road above 'Bilgola Beach for road making purposes 1 1935 Official Guide stresses the beauty of the I' I -I I 69

I area the "Riviera and Lido" df Australia 1935 Building operations described as being in a I mild boom. 1936 "Wendy" built Palm Beach.

I 1936 Dressing sheds built on Palm beach.

1936 A booklet titled "Hiking for Health" I describes a walk Manly, Warringah Palm Beach and describes it as "The Playground of Sunny New South Wales"

I 1937 Beginning of construction of McCarrs Creek Road into Ku-Ring-Gai Chase. Other roads in I the Church Point district. Jan. 1937 The Wildlife Preservation Society purchased land at Avalon to form the Angophora I Reserve. Opened 19 March 1938 . 1937 Hordern Estate dedicated to Warringah Shire I Council as public space. 1937 The Cabbage Tree Club Palm Beach formed . I 1937 Population of Warringah Shire 18,000 . 1938 Palm Beach described as "one of the show I places of the Commonwealth". 1938 Royal Prince Alfred Yacht Club established I at Green Point. 19 Mar 1938 Angophara Reserve Avalon opened . I 4 Oct. 1938 Wynyard to Palm Beach bus service commences 1939 Monument erected in Boyle Street Manly commemorating first exploratory trip to I Pittwater. 22 May 1943 Monument unveiled at McCarrs Creek to all I the surveys from 1789 1947 Oyster leases at McCarrs Creek I 1948 Rock Lily "restored" . I 10 Dec. 1948 Bay View Golf Club formally registered. I I I -I I 70

I Phase IV Aug. 1950 Avalon Beach Public School opened. I 1954 The Pacific Club Palm Beach formed .

1955 Regular ferry services established within I the district I 1957 Mona Vale Bowling Club established . 1958 Avalon Beach Bowling and Recreation Club opened.

I 1958 st Davids Anglican Church Palm Beach built . June 1960 Newport Beach Church of st Michael and all I Angels opened. 1960 A local guidebook states that comparatively I few of the houses are used as weekenders . Jan 1961 Small concrete marker erected on Scotland Island commemorating the granting of the I island. c.1962 Pittwater High School opened.

I 1962 The "Bible garden" Palm Beach commenced. 1963-1967 A number of light factories opened in the I area: two engineering shops, four car repair and duco spraying works, four boat builders, a drug manufacturer, clothing manufacturer, I plastics works, timber yard . 1963 Shire of Warringah Planning Scheme adopted. I 13 Jan. 1964 Avalon Beach Post Office opened in Old Barrenjoey Road. I 1964 Mona Vale and District Hospital opened. 1964 Rise in land values demonstrated by an article in the Bulletin which quoted a block I purchased for 80 pounds in 1941 worth 1500 pounds in 1964 and a good house with a view I worth 12000-18000 pounds. c. 1965 Sacred Heart Infants School opened I 1965 Warringah Expressway commenced. 1966 Mona Vale Rex Hotel - Motel opened, the I first licenced hotel since the Rock Lily. I I 1 1 I- 71

1 Included a shopping complex. 2 Nov. 1966 Mona Vale Memorial Hall opened.

1 May 1967 Original two roomed Mona Vale school demolished. I 1967 Fire Brigade station opened at Mona -Vale . I Feb. 1968 Barrenjoey High School opens. 27 Jan 1970 Mona Vale bus depot opens • I 1971 Marina built at Church Point 1971 Council policy to allow no more subdivision I on the western shores of Pittwater. 1971 Home unti development frozen. I 1976 Site of Custom House destroyed by fire . 1980 Boat launching ramp at Bay View

I 1981 Description of the Custom House site mentions clearly identifieable site of C.R., a cottage, site of identifiable jetty, cobbled paving, sites of three other I cottages . I 1981 PCO "Hy Brasil" 1984 Draft Environmental Plan I I I I I I I I I