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Relaxed Rhodes ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I RELAXED RHODES SEE & DO ● Beware of Greeks bearing goats ● Out of sultry high season, — it means you’ll end up spending a the 350 steps to the super-cute whole afternoon lunching local-style church at Tsambika don’t seem too (on the aforementioned meat). Amid painful, especially given the knockout the pine forest of the hinterland, coastline views of Rhodes Town to Apollona village has lots of restaurants the north and ancient Lindos to the and is a much-loved spot for long south once you get there. Below you is Sunday meals. The dish to order Tsambika beach, the best on the island, is tender baked goat casserole with calm waters, loads of empty sand with giant beans. and a smattering of decent tavernas. ● It takes a while to do the weekly ● Not a beach person? Take a wander shop on Rhodes, and involves trips into the green interior, passing through to the world’s sleepiest high streets. shady oak forests scented with wild Start in Siana and wander along a lane sage. A four-hour hike up the wooded where a scattering of stores and mountain of Profitis Elias delivers market-stalls sell locally made deliciously cool hill breezes and BE A GREEK thyme-scented honey and olive WINE BUFF clear views all the way to Turkey Coach parties oil. Then drive the 15km to Embonas (we recommend the book Walking head to the two big village to taste wine produced by on Rhodes by Paul van Bodengraven wine producers the island’s vintners. It’s potent, Emery and CAIR, and Marco Barten, published by One if not award-winning. but we would Day Walks Publishing; available at recommend a visit amazon.co.uk, from £6.55). to the charming ● Take to the water. Curving like and friendly a backbone at the bottom of the micro-winery ● The Medieval citadel of Lindos is Kounaki (kounaki island, the strange, desert-like spit straight out of a movie epic. White wines.gr) of sand at Prasonisi is blustery to buildings tumble down the hillside in Embonas say the least. Its western beach is like outsize sugar cubes, hemmed in popular with kite-surfers, but a gentler by a mountain and a fortress; between breeze and shallow sea on the eastern them, the narrowest streets hide edge mean prime windsurf-lesson shaded cafes and cool boutiques. territory. Falling in is half the fun Climb the hill (on foot or by donkey) to (prasonisicenter.com; two-hour the fourth-century acropolis (entry £5) equipment hire, £32pp). and see the whole city laid out before you, then bathe like a local and jump ● Shop, bar- and restaurant-hop into the water from the jetty, where through Rhodes Old Town, Europe’s instant day-tripping boats from Rhodes Twilight zone: oldest inhabited Medieval city. Town arrive. Swim to the right, through left, the entrance A Unesco World Heritage site since to Rhodes harbour; escapes jade-coloured water, where there walking the line; 1988, it has four kilometres of pebbled are caves to explore. Tsambika beach lanes and alleyways to explore behind its old defensive walls. Leather goods and jewellery are the things to buy, and you can pepper your shopping with pitstops at hip bars and trad tavernas. ● Take the ocean road. Hire a car Relaxed Rhodes to explore Rhodes’s sleepy west Want this popular Greek island all to yourself? Now’s the time… coast, darting between the tiny seaside towns south of Ixia, passing turquoise coves that make bathing The hordes have disappeared, the late-summer sun is still shining, and stops irresistible. At Kritinia, follow the it’s less than four hours away. It doesn’t get any better than Rhodes right road as it heads high into the hills. Your destination: Bakis Brothers in Embonas now. Add empty beaches, a seductive Medieval citadel, a surprisingly (00 30 22460 41247; mains about £11), leafy interior and life lived firmly in the slow lane — all together, it’s the for a plate of the best grilled meat recipe for a truly laid-back getaway. By Lee Mannion to be found on the island. If you’re wondering why octopuses are hanging from the rafters of so many houses, it’s because sun-drying is the traditional Greek way to tenderise them. > 140 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL OCTOBER 2014 OCTOBER 2014 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL 141 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I RELAXED RHODES EAT BEACHES & SWIMS ● Laid-back beach shack ● Sundowner scene BANANA BEACH BAR, TSAMBIKA ISLAND BEACH BAR, KOLYMBIA (Mains about £5) WHAT TO Because: It’s the best place in Rhodes DRINK Because: Pre-holiday stress goes out Skip time to catch a sunset, with bobbing boats the window at this waterside shack, scanning the bar in the foreground. Travel’s tip: It’s which serves bargain Greek salads. for recognisable hard to find — take a left after names — just Travel’s tip: Don’t fret about finding this you’ve passed all the bars on leafy order a Mythos place among the other beach tavernas. beer and look like Eucalyptus Avenue. Kolymbia beach Just look for the gigantic fake banana a local in an instant (00 30 22410 56250). swaying above it. Tsambika beach. ● Fish central ● Stand-out spot ST PAUL’S BAY, LINDOS MAMA SOFIA, RHODES TOWN Because: Just below the fortress of (Mains about £10) Lindos Town, this tiny bay is quiet and Because: This is the undisputed best sheltered. Travel’s tip: Take your in a line of restaurants with waiters snorkel — there are plenty of fish hiding inviting you to sit down as you wander out in this wondrous natural cove. through the Old Town: worth a stop even if you’re not hungry, and the ● Chic swim people-watching is great. Travel’s tip: KALLITHEA SPRINGS, FALIRAKI Traditional Greek dishes are the way to Because: Just a few kilometres from go here, with moussaka and stifado Faliraki’s famously debauched stretch, MENU elevated to a higher level. 28 Odos DECODED these thermal springs are more Ibizan Orfeos (00 30 22410 24469). Too shy to ask Beach Club than Rhodes Uncovered. what stifado Travel’s tip: Head inside to see restored actually is? It’s a ● Freshest fish rich, slow-cooked ’20s mosaic floors and magnificent PLIMIRI TAVERNA, PLIMIRI (Mains beef stew, heavy arches, leading to a swimming about £13) on the garlic and platform strewn with wicker sofas and Because: It’s an enchanting restaurant, rosemary. Expect white umbrellas. Kallithea Springs (00 roasted potatoes with its bright blue tables overlooking on the side 30 22410 65691, kallitheasprings.gr). the beach, and a world away from the holidaying hordes. Travel’s tip: Don’t go if you need choice. They serve only STAY ● The romantic B&B ● No kids! GET ME THERE whatever’s caught that day, grilled or ASK THE ● High life S NIKOLIS HOTEL, RHODES TOWN WRITER’S AQUA GRAND, LINDOS (Doubles GO INDEPENDENT TIP fried and charged by weight. Plimiri ELAFOS HOTEL, PROFITIS ILIAS (Doubles from £63, room only) from £95, B&B) EasyJet (easyjet.com) flies from LOCAL Not a fan of beach (00 30 22440 46003). Sofia Mailli has worked (Doubles from £55, B&B) Because: The plant-covered sandstone Because: Your break will be blissfully Liverpool and Gatwick from £27 IC pebbles? Head in Lardos, on the south Because: This is something completely H facade of this charming hotel, on a quiet to the sandier noise- and tantrum-free at this arty, one-way. Jet2 (jet2.com) flies of the island, for the past ● Famous with foodies different — a chalet built by Italians, cobblestone street in the Medieval Old shores of Pefki adults-only resort. It comes complete from Glasgow, Manchester, East seven years town beach — it’s MAVRIKOS, LINDOS (Mains 780m up in the inland forest. Travel’s Town, hides some delectable rustic- about 3km away with designer furniture, bonsai trees, a Midlands, Newcastle and Leeds about £16) tip: Ask for a room at the back, for EAD CARTOGRAP lush boudoirs. Plus, there’s a lovely scattering of modern art pieces and a Bradford to Rhodes from £207 return. H Because: Dimitri Mavrikos recently I’m from Rhodes Town but astounding views towards Turkey. shaded patio garden. Travel’s tip: location right beside the beach. Travel’s Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from won one of Greece’s top ‘Golden Hat’ I fell in love with the south Profitis Ilias; 00 30 22410 44808, Whatever you do, don’t skip breakfast. tip: It’ll take you at least 30 minutes to Liverpool, Bournemouth, East : MAIDEN awards as the chef of one of the the minute I started working here. It elafoshotel.gr. It’s served on the roof terrace, which has walk into central Lindos, which is a good Midlands and Stansted, from £86 MAP country’s best restaurants. Travel’s feels like a quieter island altogether. gasp-inducing views of the town and 1.5km away, so take a taxi to escape return. Thomas Cook (flythomascook. tip: Go at lunchtime. The restaurant’s If I have a day off, I’ll go to the huge, ● Starry stay harbour. 61 Hippodamou St, Old Town; the heat — it’ll only cost you about £4. com) flies from nine UK airports, PERSTOCK crypt-like arches and sea breezes deserted beach at Lachania. It’s pebbly RODOS PALACE, IXIA (Doubles U 00 30 22410 34561, s-nikolis.gr. Navarone Bay; 00 30 22440 49100, from £179 return. provide relief from the heat. Lindos but the water is clear.
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