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Adelaide Hills the guide. adelaide hills Within easy reach of the city centre, the Adelaide Hills is emerging as a popular destination boasting idyllic views, great wineries and impressive brews,. WORDS MaTT presTon PHOTOGRAPHY caTherine suTherland Once a slightly daggy weekend destination, restaurants, providores and wineries open where to eat South Australia’s Adelaide Hills are now during the week, the Hills are on the verge The Mallee Grill becoming decidedly hip. The cool-climate of becoming a seven-day attraction. The public bar and bottle-o have shifted wines, picturesque valley views and It helps that no wine region is closer to a into a new extension, leaving the gorgeous Germanic pioneer tradition (which once state capital than this wide ribbon of rolling old verandah’d hotel, with its clean, almost saw cynics dub the town of Hahndorf hills to the east of Adelaide – especially as Georgian lines, as home to the smart dining “Schnitzeldorf” thanks to its socks-with- the Princes Highway whisks you up into room. Here, the occasional white leather sandals tourist crowd) remain. But now, the centre of the Adelaide Hills in minutes. wing-backed chair, pendant lights with but as more city-slickers take to the hills to All these factors add up to make it a classic geometric statement shades, and a huge settle, and more of the region’s acclaimed weekend away or rewarding longer stint. mirror at one end of the room, add drama 58 delicious. Lemon myrtle muffins at The Essence Fine Foods. Clockwise from right: Three Brothers Arms Hotel; relaxed dining at Jimmies; a Chocolate at No. 5 creation; Simone Joyce of Woodside Providore; The Lane Vineyard; oxtail tortellini at Bridgewater Mill; the view from Nepenthe; idyllic Bridgewater Mill. to the cream-and-white space. Daniel to the service and an unrivalled location in There are three other options at this end Lawrence’s internationalist menu ranges an old working flour mill on a tree-lined of the freeway. Jimmie’s (6 Main St, Crafers, from braised pork belly with prawns and creek. When chef Le Tu Thai’s food fires – (08) 8339 1534) is a relaxed but well-turned black vinegar dressing to gratinated as it does with a dish of butter-tender out pizza restaurant offering some unusual scallops and steaks cooked on the grill. To venison with an intense Armagnac and Middle Eastern-inspired toppings such as finish, share a plate of light, freshly made mushroom sauce and frizz of fried kumara pumpkin with zaatar. For something doughnuts dunked in a silky but robustly – eating here can be the sort of perfect smarter, try Piccadilly Restaurant at Mount flavoured coffee mousse. Stirling Hotel, languid experience you wish for on holiday. Lofty House (74 Summit Rd, Crafers, (08) 52 Mt Barker Rd, Stirling, (08) 8339 2345. The wine list ranks owner Petaluma’s 8339 6777) with Craig Graves’ modern wines alongside benchmark European fine-dining menu and a wine list studded peTaluMa’s BridGewaTer bottles. Besides their famous Hanlin Hill with local luminaries like Geoff Hardy’s K1 Mill resTauranT riesling, try Petaluma’s shiraz viognier, shiraz or the Paracombe sauvignon blanc. For so long the pinnacle of Australian supple chardonnay and almost viscous but For a restaurant with a grand view of regional dining, Bridgewater Mill remains subtly apricot viognier. Mt Barker Rd, the plains, try The Summit at the lookout one of SA’s main attractions. This is thanks Bridgewater, (08) 8339 9200. (Summit Rd, Mt Lofty, (08) 8339 2600). the guide. The lane Vineyard The essence fine foods where to eat – pubs This new arrival is burning brightly as This is a laid-back spot for a breakfast Three BroThers arMs hoTel one of the Hills’ most popular lunch spots, of smoked salmon and scrambled egg Shane Ortis used to run a funky restaurant thanks to panoramic views from the baguette, or for owner Susannah’s at the Aldinga beach kiosk on the Fleurieu modern glass box with wide verandahs. fresh-baked apple and lemon myrtle Peninsula. A tree-change has seen him It also helps that they’ve snared one-time muffins. The Essence Fine Foods also move on, with partner Mel Pritchard, to Auge chef Glenn Carr to whip up a menu make take-home meals such as tuna this old English-style pub complete with that ranges from simple assemblies like mornay and lasagne. Shop 7, 49 Mt roaring fires and hand-pumps for pulling black olive tapenade and goat’s curd with Barker Rd, Stirling, (08) 8339 7703. pints of Old Speckled Hen. Like most of the crisp sourdough croutons, or silky pubs up this way, there’s a pool table in the pappardelle with radicchio and Italian chocolaTe aT no. 5 public bar, but the 120 international and sausage, to a wedge of stylishly unadorned There’s usually something a little twee local bottled beers – and Barossa Valley almond, walnut and pine nut tart. To and touristy about chocolate cafes. And Brewing’s trial organic ale on tap – are drink, there’s the vineyard’s own pinot although you’ll find this place popular pretty unique. The wine list is similarly grigio, while their shiraz and cabernet are with the traditional ‘socks-with-sandals’ interesting and well-priced, and the menu pick of the reds. Ravenswood Ln, Hahndorf visitor, owners Sophie and is also a cut above with slick modern dishes Hahndorf, (08) 8388 1250. Peter Zervas have managed to set up a such as Kangaroo Island marron with lime sexy, contemporary cafe in this pretty and ginger butter, or salt-and-pepper soft- where to eat – cafes 1850s stone cottage. Another plus is that shell crab bumping heads with cut-above orGanic MarkeT they pay as much attention to the coffee counter meals like a great beef cheek pie. 40 At this organic-retailing pioneer, you’ll as they do to their range of sculptural Venables St, Macclesfield, (08) 8388 9265. find chook, grog and Paris Creek’s local chocolate mousse cakes, or the handmade As well as their fancy Mallee Grill biodynamic butter and yoghurt, plus an chocolates that come in from New York, restaurant (see Where to Eat), The Stirling organic greengrocer and cafe. Here the Melbourne and nearby Balhannah. Hotel also has a decent bistro menu in its day might start with a smoothie of 5 Main St, Hahndorf, (08) 8388 1835. funky main bar, which offers everything yoghurt, wheatgerm, honey and banana, from meaty duck and fennel sausages on before ramping up to light lunches such B–d farM paris creek a bed of lentils with a rich gravy, to as cauliflower and coriander soup. These serious producers of great yoghurts, chicken or veal parmigiana. 5 Druids Ave, Stirling, (08) 8339 4835. quark (a fresh, white European-style For more traditional counter meals, cheese) and other dairy goodness have you could try the Balhannah Hotel (78 woodside proVidore been champions of biodynamic milk since Main Rd, Balhannah, (08) 8388 4119), the With clean modern lines and an open 1988. Now they’ve opened a little modern Oakbank Hotel (207 Main Rd, Oakbank, fire, Simone Joyce’s popular cafe is a bit of weekend cafe, too. Be sure to check out (08) 8388 4267) or the Stanley Bridge a local gem, not least for a menu that their new range of cheeses, including a Tavern (41 Onkaparinga Valley Rd, leaps from lamb burgers and a rabbit and rather impressive tilsit. Paris Creek Rd, Verdun, (08) 8388 7249), which seem to prune pie with walnut butter beans, to a Meadows, (08) 8388 3339. take monthly turns at being the best bet. neat range of vibrant Sri Lankan dishes The Locavore (49 Mt Barker Rd, made to authentic recipes from Simone’s Bullock’s wood Oven eaTery Stirling, (08) 8339 4416) offers more of a grandmother. Top picks include the John Bullock’s woodfired oven pumps big city bar experience and such great lampries (meatballs with stock-cooked out some of the best food in the Adelaide drinking snacks as nuggets of ‘popcorn’ rice) seafood curries, preserved-lime-zest Hills. Here, impeccable thin-crust pizzas chicken, or potato chips mixed with chilli raita and a wonderful okra pickle. They’re are topped with largely local produce, sauce and local venison chorizo. also open on the first Friday of every including Lobethal feta and olive oil from For steins of Bavarian beer, wursts of month for dinner. 69 Onkaparinga Valley the local Ngeringa grove. You’ll also find all denominations and groaning plates of Rd, Woodside, (08) 8389 9510. a deliciously chewy and thick fig and kranskies, head to the German Arms frangipane tart; and just about the best Hotel (69 Main St, Hahndorf, (08) 8388 ruBy’s orGanic café coffee around, which is made (and served) 7013) or the 160-year-old Hahndorf Inn This modern, coeliac-friendly cafe uses with an obsessive care. They do good (35 Main St, Hahndorf, (08) 8388 7063). the skills of local ladies to bake the cakes bread, too, and we also love the long Both do breakfasts for the ravenous. and pulls a decent latte from Fairtrade communal table on the pavement. Yes, For even more meat, try Zorro’s beans. For lunch, try one of the salads or Bullocks is a real gem. It’s a shame they’re Charcoal Grill, (60 Main St, Hahndorf, the popular polenta stack. Shop 3, 29 Mt currently closed on weekends. 46 Gawler (08) 8388 1940), which also spit-roasts Barker Rd, Stirling, (08) 8339 6262. St, Mt Barker, (08) 8391 3331. meat on the street on weekends.
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