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Falls Creekcreek Flashdance FALLSFALLS CREEKCREEK FLASHDANCE Slip-sliding away: cross-country skiing at Falls Creek, Victoria When it comes to skiing, down isn’t the only way to go. Dedicated downhill skier Bronwen Gora clips on a pair of Nordic skis for Australia’s premier cross-country race. FOR SOMEONE WHO spent much of her childhood in the Far from being downhill’s poor cousin, cross-country skiing is now 1980s strapped in to a pair of skis, cross-country skiing seemed a sport renewed. Fresh young faces are hallmarks of the sport, among confined to earthy types. Unlike downhill skiing, where the heel is them Australian cross-country Olympic team members Phil fixed to the ski, in cross-country skiing, only the toe is clipped in, Bellingham, Esther Bottomley and siblings Aimee and Callum allowing the heel to lift so the skier can glide along. Watson. New fans are clicking in to the lighter, skinnier skis, attracted While the rest of us zoomed down groomed runs in flash outfits, to the sport’s fitness benefits and relative ease of learning. Even a cross-country skiers donned baggy, weatherproof clothes and cross-country newcomer can race alongside Olympians. wandered off into the bush on skinny skis. All that sliding around The Victorian ski resort of Falls Creek is the headquarters of PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS HOCKING on flat ground looked slow and boring. How things have changed. Australian cross-country skiing, with the largest network of JUNE 2014 QANTAS 57 SKI FALLS CREEK Falls Creek in winter; racers line up for the 2013 Kangaroo Hoppet (left) groomed trails in the country. Every August, the alpine resort hosts Australia’s premier long-distance cross-country ski race, the Kangaroo Hoppet, one of 16 events that comprise the Worldloppet Ski Federation’s FIS Marathon Cup over four continents. The Kangaroo Hoppet attracts top competitors from around the globe alongside regular enthusiasts. While the main race is a marathon 42km, two shorter courses – the 21km Birkebeiner and the 7km Joey Hoppet – offer the inexperienced a chance to sample the sport. Easier to master than downhill skiing, the technique required for cross-country skiing is similar to sliding along a freshly waxed floor in socks and can be picked up in a few days. “Anyone who can slide their feet can cross-country ski,” says Snowdon demonstrates: bend the knees, lean forward and slide one instructor Richard Snowdon. leg forward while poling with the opposite arm. After a few minutes Compared to the stiff and heavy boots used for downhill, cross- of dedicated practice, the wobbles dissipate, replaced by a relaxing country boots feel more like highly technical trainers. Cross-country sensation of gliding. skis and bindings are also lighter than their downhill counterparts. Next lesson: skate skiing. Unlike classic cross-country skis, which Lighter jackets, but more layers, are recommended as the skier’s body have a fish-scale pattern on the base to stop them sliding backwards, heats up faster than on the slopes. But the biggest difference between skate skis are completely smooth and razor-edged. The idea is to the two styles is the cost – most cross-country trail networks are free, skate along vigorously, feet pushing from side to side in a V motion, or relatively inexpensive to access, whereas resort lift passes can as opposed to sliding directly forward. Skate skis are faster and more cost more than $100 per day. dynamic, hence more difficult to master. At first, balancing on the edges of the skis while trying to propel myself forward is frustrating. A PREPARATORY LESSON at Falls Creek Nordic Centre The skis slip away from beneath me and I stumble like a drunk. But feels like a wise move in the lead-up to the Hoppet. The Nordic after about 20 minutes, I begin to glide and the endorphins kick in. Centre is the gateway to the resort’s 65km of free, groomed cross- Skate skiers are known as the marathon runners of snow sports and country trails. This network flows through a bewitchingly beautiful the sensation is certainly addictive. landscape of snow-laden gums, open snowy plains and babbling Both cross-country skiers and skate skiers follow the same aqueducts that feed the Rocky Valley Dam on the Bogong High groomed trails, ideally on firmly packed snow. In competitive cross- Plains next to Falls Creek. country skiing, there are races specifically for classic cross-country. Such peaceful communing with nature is, however, only possible But most races, particularly sprinting and biathlon, require skate once the art of moving on cross-country skis has been mastered. At skis as they are quicker. first, wobbles abound. Unlike their wider, more stable downhill cousins, cross-country skis are only about 5cm wide. For an experi- COME RACE DAY, I’m still wobbly on the skate skis so enced downhill skier, they feel like matchsticks. Clipped in at the choose to compete on classics (most of the competitors are wearing toes and holding a pair of poles as high as my arm pits, I watch as skate skis). The assembly area bustles with colour. Fancy-dress HOPPET PHOTOGRAPHY: MATT HULL; SNOW SCENE: WILLIAM MEPPEM/BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU 58 QANTAS JUNE 2014 SKI FALLS CREEK ONLINE SOUTHERN SNOW SHOWS For the lowdown on the best skiing in Australia and New Zealand, visit qantas. com/travelinsider The 2014 Kangaroo Hoppet will be held on August 23. hoppet.com.au The Gully Bar & Restaurant by Three Blue Ducks: parsnip and artichoke soup (above left) and hot chocolate outfits range from simple crowns of wattle to animal onesies. It is STAY & EAT Summit Ridge wonderfully egalitarian, with Olympians preparing for the race with Alpine Lodge everyone else. The anticipation is palpable, magnified by the fact QT Falls Creek 8 Schuss Street, Falls Creek. that after a snowy, stormy week, it’s all sunshine and blue skies. 17 Bogong High Plains Road, (03) 5758 3800. All three races take place simultaneously, with starts staggered at Falls Creek. (03) 5732 8000. summitridge.com.au 10-minute intervals from 10.30am. Sections of the three courses also qtfallscreek.com.au Winner of numerous regional intersect at times, which means that Olympians from Australia, These chic, self-contained one- to awards, Summit Ridge’s restaurant Russia, Canada and the US ski alongside fanatics and enthusiasts three-bedroom apartments have serves elegant à la carte fare such of every stripe, including parents pulling children in sleds. balconies with spas overlooking as rabbit ballotine stuffed with Loudspeakers call competitors to the start. First off are the expansive mountain vistas. The apple and black pudding. Kangaroo Hoppet racers, followed by the Birkebeiner participants. breakfast and dinner buffets are Accommodation includes rooms Then the Joey Hoppet starting gun fires and I’m swept up in the sumptuously presented and the and suites, and the lounge has adrenaline of the race. The route winds around the Rocky Valley pampering continues at the QT’s couches and a log fire. From $125. Dam, taking in expansive views of the high plains. The few gentle luxurious SpaQ (open during the hills prove challenging and I’m thankful for the cardio training I did winter season). From $368. The Gully Bar in the weeks leading up to the event. I’m also envious of the skate & Restaurant by skiers who whiz past on their metal edges. Pretty Valley Three Blue Ducks The excitement ramps up when, towards the end of the Joey Alpine Lodge 3 Sitzmark Street, Falls Creek. Hoppet course, I hear cries of “move aside” and “front runners” 10 Slalom Street, Falls Creek. thegully.com.au coming from behind. The Kangaroo Hoppet race leader, Russian (03) 5758 3210. prettyvalley.com This ski-in/ski-out restaurant Olympian Alexander Legkov, flies past as if propelled by a giant fan. This family-friendly lodge offers beneath the Huski apartments The reigning champ goes on to win the 42km race in one hour, 27 simple rooms in the same building is run by Sydney chefs Darren minutes, 32 seconds. The first Australian across the line is Callum as the large dining, lounge and bar Robertson and Mark LeBrooy, who Watson, who places fifth. Phil Bellingham finishes eighth, and in area, which has alpine views. For honed their talents at Tetsuya’s – 25th spot, Esther Bottomley is the fifth woman across the finish line. higher-end accommodation, the and it shows. Think pork belly with Fortunately, I get to watch them all, after finishing the 7km race adjoining Ropers two- and parsnip puree or slow-cooked in 51 minutes, 31 seconds, placing 188th out of 319 participants (the three-bedroom apartments have lamb shanks with a tomato and winner is teenager Liam Burton in 17 minutes, 51 seconds). I choose wi-fi, plasma TV, fully equipped red wine jus. Local wines and craft to look on the bright side. Not only did I beat 131 other competitors, kitchen, balcony and ski storage. beers are also on the menu and I’ve also crossed the same finish line as several Olympians. Two-night lodge package (full the coffee is excellent. Open for The Three Blue Ducks board) from $550; two-bedroom breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, team at their Falls For airfares to Victoria call Qantas on 13 13 13 or visit qantas.com apartment from $1000. June-September. WILLIAMPHOTOGRAPHY: MEPPEM/BAUERSYNDICATION.COM.AU Creek restaurant 60 QANTAS JUNE 2014.
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