Afghanistan's Ultimate Test of Manhood: Polo with a Carcass
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Sports FRIDAY, APRIL 8, 2016 MAZAR-I-SHARIF: An Afghan horseman controls his horse during a game of the tradition- MAZAR-I-SHARIF: Afghan horsemen compete for a veal carcass during a game. al sport of buzkashi during celebrations for the Persian New Year. — AFP photos Afghanistan’s ultimate test of manhood: Polo with a carcass MAZAR-I-SHARIF: With their whips cracking players and spectators. In fact, even the horses neighing horses, an unruly scrum of riders bat- are all male. “All the chapandaz you see here tled in a muddy field for the headless carcass of are former mujahideen fighters,” Abdullah a calf-this is the Afghan sport of buzkashi. Quraishi, a former buzkashi player. “They first Passion, raw aggression, horsemanship and a fought against the Soviets in the 1980s before fierce competitive instinct were on display in waging a fight against the Taliban. Peace has country’s biggest annual tournament held in now returned to this area,” he said referring to northern Mazar-i-Sharif city, set against a back- the relatively tranquil province of Balkh, of drop of the snow-peaked Hindu Kush moun- which Mazar-i-Sharif is the capital. tains to celebrate the Persian New Year. A wild winter pastime, buzkashi is believed A ferocious version of polo, Afghanistan’s to have originated in central Asia, reputedly national sport is not for the faint hearted. The around the time of 13th century emperor action is fast and furious as hundreds of horse- Genghis Khan. Legend has it that the sport was men known as chapandaz dressed in colorful initially played by warriors using the corpse of a robes, baggy trousers and leather boots — defeated enemy. The sport still has a proud fol- wrestle over the dead animal, fighting off com- lowing, primarily among northern Afghanistan’s petitors eager to snatch it away. ethnic Uzbeks, Turkmens and Tajiks. The rider who manages to scoop up the heavy carcass, often after sliding down per- ‘Men compete with horses’ MAZAR-I-SHARIF: Afghan horsemen look on as others compete for a veal carcass during ilously close to the ground, charges across the The game has key parallels with politics in a game. dusty pitch, swerves around a pole and drops it Afghanistan, a country that has seen numerous into a small circle to score a point. “If you don’t power swaps and invasions over the course of teeth, or use them to hit other competitors as a livelihood. Those who manage, after the mad whip the horse hard enough, the horse will be centuries. Observers argue that a rough and much as their horses. Despite its inherent vio- dash around the field, to hurl the carcass back too slow and another chapandaz will grab the tumble atmosphere and pumped up show of lence the game is a welcome distraction in a into the circle and score a goal, usually earn goat,” warns Gulbudin, a 61-year-old spectator. might are common to both. country decimated by decades of war. cash prizes-sometimes thousands of dollars if “The sport inspires great passion.” The sport is also seen as a symbol of prestige “Buzkashi has been a sport for (hundreds) of the game is sponsored by a wealthy warlord. An adrenalin rush swept through the audi- and power for Afghanistan’s affluent, who years,” said Haji Sharif Salahi, president of the “Many years ago at a buzkashi event ence despite the dangers as the wild contest, alone are capable of buying the best horses, buzkashi federation in Balkh. “Vice President organized for a wedding, the prize was $7,000 held in late March, raged. The game, banned paying for the best players and funding their General Dostum (former warlord) wants to and a Toyota Prado. It was I who won it,” under the 1996-2001 hardline Taleban regime, own pitches. Buzkashi players certainly have to export buzkashi to other destinations such as beamed 48-year-old Pahlawan, who claims to is the ultimate test of the Afghan male. It is seen be talented horsemen, as they stay balanced at Dubai and the United States.” have won several competitions over three as a rite of passage into manhood in male-dom- high speeds and must remain onboard despite Players of the sport compete for individual decades. “In buzkashi, men compete with inated Afghanistan. rivals trying to push them to the ground. as well as team glory, but for professional riders horses. It is a sport, a passion and a way to Not a single woman was in sight among the Players often hold their whips between their like Hassan Pahlawan, buzkashi is a way to earn earn a living.” — AFP MAZAR-I-SHARIF: An Afghan horseman watches as a horse rolls in the dust as others are MAZAR-I-SHARIF: Afghan spectators watch as horsemen compete. prepared to take part in a buzkashi match..