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Istanbul — Life Beneath the Bosphorus Text and Photos by Ateş Evirgen

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Istanbul — Life Beneath the Bosphorus Text and Photos by Ateş Evirgen Istanbul — Life Beneath the Bosphorus Text and photos by Ateş Evirgen 23 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Istanbul Entrance of Golden Horn (Karakoy side) featuring Galata Tower built by the Genoese during the Byzantine period Istanbul—a metropolis of over The city ceased to be the Turk’s ‘capital’ 15 million inhabitants—is one of with the foundation of the Republic of Tur- key in 1923 by Kemal Ataturk. Yet, thanks the world’s most populous cit- to its rich heritage and ever-expanding ies, and thus, naturally, Turkey’s population, it maintains and increases its largest and most important city, importance with each passing day. both economically and cultur- Istanbul has been given various names throughout the ages—names associated ally. Indeed, Istanbul remains with different stages of the city’s history. one of the oldest cities in the In historical order, these are: Byzantion, world. It was the capital of the Augusta Antonina, Nova Roma, Constan- Roman Empire between 330–395 tinople, Konstantiniyye, Islambol and Is- tanbul. Intriguingly, this giant metropolis is AD, the Eastern Roman Empire also home to a significant natural habitat. between 395–1204 AD and With many of its dwellers unaware of between 1261–1453 AD, the Latin it, spectacular natural phenomena have been continuing for millions of years Empire between 1204–1261 AD, around this city. Millions living here do not and finally the Ottoman Empire realize that it is located on Europe’s larg- between 1453–1922 AD. est raptor migration route; thousands of A seagull on the coast of Buyukada An underwater cavern beneath Buyukada. PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver on reef at Tavsan Island in Istanbul 24 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Entrance of Bosphorus from Marmara side (left) Common travel lobster Istanbul later ovulate. This journey fin tuna (Thunnus thynnus), makes the Istanbul Straits Atlantic bonito (Sarda sar- one of the most dynamic da), blue fish (Pomatomus regions of the world for fish- saltator), Atlantic mackerel ing. Those migrating fishes, (Scomber scombrus), chub who first lay their eggs and mackerel (Scomber japoni- then thoroughly become cus), and horse mack- fed when the water cools erel (Trachurus trachurus). down, begin to migrate Hence during this journey, back and pass through the starting from small to big, straits in order to return to these fishes also become their homes. bait for others. During rich Most famous of these times of this migration in the fishes are the northern blue- past, it was also common IUCN red-listed angular roughshark (Oxynatus centrina) Buyukada, Istanbul (right) birds pass through Istan- bul’s skyline twice a year. With this feature, Istanbul is located on the most important bird migra- tion route in the world. Knowledge of this by the citizens of Istanbul might indeed be the last hope for Istanbul’s gradually disappearing nature. Bosphorus Strait But the real migration is the one ing Asia from Europe and divides the two-way passing of marine of “fishes” that has been occur- the city by name as Asian and organisms between the Medi- ring periodically for thousands European. It is a narrow and terranean and the Black Sea. of years through the Bosphorus curved waterway approximately However, few people recognize Strait, connecting the Black Sea 30 kilometers in length; and a this aspect of the Bosphorus. with the Sea of Marmara. In es- waterway that provides a pas- Indeed, fishes coming from the sence what gives Istanbul its true sage for life in water. Mediterranean and the Aegean character is the strait of Bospho- In addition to being an eco- are forced to pass through this rus, which allows the city to rest system securing a delicate strait in order to be thoroughly on two continents. Indeed, this balance, the strait acts as an lubricated in the waters of the strait forms a boundary separat- ecological tunnel regulating Black Sea, rich with nutrients, to Diver with violescent sea-whip (Paramuricea clavata) on reef 25 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Where modern technology enhances old fashion diving travel Istanbul W4 5mm STYLISH SILVER DESIGN LOADED WITH FEATURES. W4 is the latest back-zip wetsuit from Waterproof. After nearly 30 years of experience of making wetsuits we have put all our knowledge into this high-quality suit with an eye-catching retro-futuristic design. The 3D anatomical design, with pre-bent arms and legs with stretch panels and gender specific construction ensures a comfortable fit and a relaxing body position in the water. 3D-moulded real rubber kneepads are perfect for the diving instructor who spends a lot of time on his/her knees in the water while teaching. Double smooth-skin seals at arms and legs, adjustable neck and a 10mm spinepad, with an extra seal at the backzipper work together to keep the cold water out. Seals are designed to fit WP boots and gloves. All zippers in top class Vislon from YKK. The Bronze slider in the back zipper ensures trouble- free function for many years. ToughTex panels at elbows and knees, Bonded HiQ Nylon Thread and 100% CR Neoprene in all panels - quality in every detail. Polybius depurator crabs (above) and jellyfish (left), Yassiada, Prince’s Islands The W4 also features double computer strap anchors with anti slip, comfort front neck zipper, Back then, those great white sharks Diving inner plush lining, seat and shoulder antislip that got caught in fishing nets and Even so, the coasts of Istanbul at the reinforcement. lines were sold for money. But today, exit of the strait are busy diving loca- those old shoals don’t pass through tions for scuba divers. One top loca- these straits anymore. Overfishing and tion is “The Princes’ Islands”, close to pollution have reduced the fishes in the Anatolian side of Istanbul. These these seas, whilst premature fishing islands, also dubbed the “Istanbul has further prevented the arrival of Islands”, consist of nine large and larger fishes who eat them. In turn, this small islands and two rocks near their has caused the disappearance of shore. Five of them—Büyükada, Hey- large tuna which live off these fishes, beliada, Burgazada, Kınalıada and and subsequently of the great white Sedefadası—constitute a district of The WPAD™, or the Waterproof sharks who track them. Istanbul and are still inhabited. Personal Accessory Dock, is a soft artfully constructed docking Scuba divers and underwater pho- There is no continuous and regular station located on the right thigh used for attaching our expandable tographers cannot be expected to settlement on the smaller islands of pocket. remain indifferent to this, a sea life that Sivriada, Yassıada, Kaşık Adası (Spoon for great white sharks (Carcharodon used to host such a habitat until recent- Island) and Tavşan Adası (Rabbit Is- carcharias), the most dreadful and fa- ly. Having said that, due to strong cur- land). These small islands are the main mous hunters of the seas, to enter the rents and busy sea traffic, strait coasts dive spots for divers in Istanbul—espe- Sea of Marmara and progress to the are not only unsuitable for scuba diving cially Sivriada, Yassıada and Tavşan Bosphorus Strait, in search of shoals but they are moreover dangerous. Adası, in terms of diversity, would eas- they pursued. ily compete with top dive locations in www.w a t er pr o o f.eu 26 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Istanbul Common starfish (Asterias rubens), Balikciadasi, Prince’s Islands (above). An exotic species first noted in 1995, transported to Istanbul shores by way of ships’ ballast waters from the North Atlantic; Sea anemone, or Sagartia elegance (right) the Mediterranean. in Turkey’s southern coasts, in terms One cannot expect not to find of water temperature, visibility and remains of ancient civilizations in the other characteristics. Yet the Sea of seas of a city that served as capi- Marmara and the Black Sea show tal for the Byzantine and Ottoman many differences from the Mediter- Empires. Indeed, it is very common ranean Sea by way of structure, to come across ruins during dives. A living organisms and other factors. Byzantine shipwreck of archaeologi- As an extension of the Mediter- cal value was discovered 60 to 70 ranean Sea, the Sea of Marmara feet deep underneath the south- shows significantly more similarities ern side of Sedef Adası (Mother of with the North Atlantic Seas. Due to Pearl Island). Therefore, Sedef Adası the development of international remains the only island closed for sea transport and maritime traffic, recreational diving out of them all. most species that do not belong to these seas, carried by ships’ ballast Marine life waters, show exotic diversity of life in A large part of Turkish coasts (includ- the Marmara. Thus there is a palpa- ing the Aegean) reveals a Medi- ble excitement of the many divers terranean character. Therefore, taking photos of various sea crea- of population growth and human organisms which could be seen in a tures at those Istanbul coasts. activity in those areas, adverse dive off southern European shores Wild life on Istanbul shores displays environmental conditions brought are quite similar to organisms found a great variety. However, as a result about by urban lifestyles and indus- Diver with soft coral (Alcyonium palmatum) at Tavsan Island, Istanbul 27 X-RAY MAG : 66 : 2015 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Istanbul silver Janolus cristatus nudibranch (above); Squid eggs laid on a branch (right) of a long gorgonia-type coral (Spinimuricea klavereni) trial waste have been the primary can be true “muck diving” zones.
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