An overview of the origins of the upland Responsible recreation – can others enjoy Signposts environment of tomorrow what we enjoyed today? The websites listed below will help you learn more about Northern This short guide aims to help you understand more about Northern Ireland’s uplands Why do we walkers and climbers seek refuge in the uplands of Northern Ireland? Ireland’s upland environment and the habitats and species we find there: and the species that depend upon these areas for their existence. Upland is defined For most it will be a mixture of the physical challenge, the serenity and the beauty www.activelifestyles.org – help care for the Mournes as a as land above the level of agricultural enclosure. The altitude at which this occurs of these landscapes. It is not just the land though, it is the life underneath, on top conservation volunteer. varies but is typically above 150m in Northern Ireland (the word ‘montane’ is used to and above that makes our uplands so special. Challenge yourself to think of a trip describe the highest fringes of the upland ecosystem >600m in NI). that was not enhanced by those that call our recreation space their home. The www.belfasthills.org – detailed biodiversity section; volunteering colour of mountain grasses, the flight of a peregrine, the smell of heather. opportunities. The 180,000 hectares of upland habitats in Northern Ireland (13% of total NI area) www.butterfly-conservation.org - identify butterflies and moths; derive their particular plant and communities as much from their position on Spending our spare time in the uplands produces some of our most treasured and species to look out for. the Atlantic fringe and moderate altitude, as from the rocks upon which they are worthwhile experiences. The quality of the natural landscape contributes, but the founded. The prevailing southwesterly weather systems produce a mild wet oceanic really memorable moments come from our meetings with wildlife. www.ccght.org – natural heritage of the Antrim, and climate whilst our latitude also brings a colder drier influence from the European Causeway Coast AONBs. mainland. Blanket bog prospered well under high annual rainfall (~2 metres on Our engagement and interaction with the living components of Northern Ireland’s

www.doeni.gov.uk/niea/biodiversity - how we’re protecting in Fermanagh) and strong icy blasts kept the tree line low helping montane fragile upland ecosystems are unavoidable. We humans hold most of the cards that Northern Ireland’s habitats and species. heath to develop on the summit of Slieve Commedagh (Mournes). will determine their fate. For the upland environment to continue providing uplifting and enthralling experiences we believe everyone who goes there should become www.habitas.org.uk – a wealth of information on different aspects of Climate generated the glaciations which carved our mountains and it is climatic more aware of the impacts we are having on the places we cherish. And by raising the natural environment. factors which power their continued erosion. Wind, rain, ice and sun combine to create our understanding of the flora and fauna we encounter we can make better opportunities and define limits for all life forms in the uplands including ourselves. choices to minimise the effect our recreation has on their existence. www.helpingthehills.ie – initiative promoting a quality approach to Thirty thousand years ago the entire island was covered in ice, glaciers froze and then management of upland path erosion. grated into history all of Northern Ireland’s plants and . Ten thousand years ago Of course recreation is not the only activity carried out in the mountains. All www.mournelive.com – information on landscape, biodiversity and their retreat revealed bare rock surfaces and drift accumulations which became the 180,000 hectares are owned and managed, some by private trusts and individuals heritage of the Mournes. substrate upon which a succession of plants and animals set up home. and some by public bodies, e.g. Northern Ireland Water and the Forest Service. As there is no legal right of entry to private land (other than a small number of www.nmni.com/cedar - submit your flora and fauna sightings to Each parent rock that these drift accumulations came from weathers to produce a public rights of way) recreational users depend on the goodwill and tolerance of CEDaR (see below). soil with a specific nutrient menu available for uptake by plants. In overview, quite landowners. We can all help maintain this goodwill by learning more about hill www.rspb.org.uk – identification, distribution maps, videos and acidic and nutrient poor soils form over Mourne granites, calcium carbonates in farming, forestry and other upland occupations and understanding how we as recordings of bird sounds. Fermanagh’s limestone give rise to highly alkaline fertile soils with the dolerite of responsible visitors can minimise our impacts on their livelihoods. and basalt of the Antrim Plateau somewhere in between. Add into this www.ulsterwildlife.org – learn about and help protect the wildlife on cake-mix the effects of spatial variations in shape, aspect and altitude and one can your doorstep. begin to appreciate how many distinct habitats have arisen. Summary case study: Dogs in the Hills www.wildflowersofireland.net – photographs, descriptions and distribution maps for wildflowers. On any given mountain trip we are likely to cross several of these, sometimes in When and where we take our dogs is an issue in many locations, but particularly great swathes of a single habitat such as blanket bog but more often as a complex so in the uplands, due to the sensitivity of the environment and the presence mosaic that includes purple moor grass, upland heath and blanket bog. of grazing animals. Concerns include: disturbance to ground breeding animals; See it! Record it! Your help is needed! transmission of parasites to wildlife; nutrient enrichment from faeces; stress

Blanket bog as its name suggests develops in upland areas of high rainfall and caused to sheep by chasing, and injury or death from biting. None of these are Hillwalkers and climbers visit inaccessible upland locations more often of Northern Ireland’s Uplands Ireland’s Northern of nutrient poor acid soils. Made up of partially decomposed plants, it can cloak insignificant and all are impossible to reverse. than most amateur naturalists. Consequently many upland species are

slopes up to 30° and be 3m deep. In common with nearly all of our upland habitats, seriously under-recorded. By submitting sightings to the Centre for

An Insight to Key Flora and Fauna Fauna and Flora Key to Insight An blanket bog is an EU priority habitat. In recognition of their international importance The failure of a minority of dog owners to keep their dogs on a lead or under Environmental Data and Recording (CEDaR) you could give a valuable Wildlife Northern Ireland is obliged to develop and act on Habitat Action Plans for these effective control has exhausted the goodwill of landowners in many hill areas. In insight into health of a species and its habitats; information that will areas (see www.doeni.gov.uk/niea/biodiversity). consideration of this Mountaineering Ireland has adopted a policy of ‘no dogs on inform decisions about future management of the uplands. Visit the

the hills other than with the landowner’s permission’. CEDaR website and register as a recorder. Use your smartphone The argument that Ireland’s uplands should be considered more a cultural landscape or camera to photograph the species, then upload to your recorder

than a natural or wild one should resonate well with all those who play or work here. account. Without clear-felling of the ancient forests, burning of scrub and grazing our uplands Mountaineering Ireland hopes that this guide adds to your engagement with the Walking would be unrecognisable and most likely impenetrable. That is not to say that their natural environment. Leave No Trace awareness courses cover practical skills to Walk Safely integrity is undervalued. Upon leaving the tarmac road you will be on land that not help us take better care of the places we use for our recreation activities. only is owned and worked, but most likely carries legal protection from one or more For tips and advice on how you can safely enjoy a walk in Northern designations, e.g. ASSI (Area of Special Scientific Interest), SAC (Special Area of Take your share of the responsibility for protecting these special places. Visit Ireland’s hills and countryside download Mountaineering Ireland’s Walk with Conservation) or NNR (National Nature Reserve), and these truly are special places. www.leavenotraceireland.org to find out how you can reduce the impact of Safely leaflet: www.mountaineering.ie/hillwalking/WalkSafely. We all have a part to play in respecting and upholding the balance between feeding your recreational activity. on the golden egg and looking after the goose that laid it.

uplands, the robin-sized stonechat is 22 often seen perched on a fencepost or a 25 27 gorse bush. Distinctive in appearance, yet easier to recognise by its call which sounds like two stones being banged together (hence ‘stone-chat’). Cold wet seasons with reduced populations have a dire effect on their numbers. Most stonechats breeding in uplands move to Mountaineering Ireland lower altitudes in autumn.

Mountaineering Ireland is the representative body working on behalf of 25 Skylark all walkers and climbers on the island of Ireland. Membership is open to Anthony McGeehan Alauda arvensis Anthony McGeehan clubs and individuals. In addition to providing a comprehensive range of 17-19cm services to members, Mountaineering Ireland’s work includes: protecting Can be difficult to distinguish from the Anthony McGeehan the mountain environment; improving and securing access; providing 22 Raven meadow but their song is helpful. he flutters down. opportunities for young people to experience our sport and supporting Corvus corax The male skylark defends his spring The skylark’s distinctive head crest rises skills development amongst all walkers and climbers. For more 60-68cm territory by ascending 50-100m where up when alarmed. In the uplands they 27 Peregrine Falcon information on Mountaineering Ireland visit www.mountaineering.ie. The largest of the crow family, these resident are a common sight and he hovers, warbling incessantly before feed mostly on seeds from grasses Falco peregrinus sound of the mountains. Intelligent and sociable they communicate using up to 30 plummeting to the ground. The skylark and sedges. Once a common farmland 38-49cm Mountaineering Ireland invites feedback on this leaflet to different calls; but it’s the deep, croaking “prruk, pruk” that draws attention. The reaches greater heights, stays aloft bird changes to cereal production and The fastest creature on the planet, the peregrine falcon streamlines itself [email protected]. raven’s tumbling flight, diamond-shaped tail and long wings with ‘fingers’ at the longer and may chirrup for 15 minutes increased use of pesticides now mean to dive at speeds of over 320km/h to strike its prey with a single fatal end all aid identification. at a stretch. The meadow pipit’s song is the upland margins have become blow. When not attacking, the peregrine flies with a series of short wing Follow us on Facebook @ www.facebook.com/mountaineeringireland Ravens feed mostly on carrion but will eat berries and beetles. A strongly territorial shorter, thinner in sound and he sings as important for summer breeding. beats and alternating glides, tilting to show its pale under-feathers and bird, normally seen alone, the youngsters form social groups before settling down broad pointed wings. Thanks to all who contributed and mating for life. Loud screeching calls near rocky ledges may declare the presence of 26 a nest. Climber avoidance of nest sites from March to June is essential This publication was funded under the Northern Ireland Environment to help ensure peregrine numbers continue to increase away from near Agency NGO Challenge Fund 2014, which was administered by Although several bird species play host extinction in the 1960s. Northern Ireland Environment Link. 23 to the , whose intrusive egg always mimics its host, the meadow pipit Support and information was gratefully received from: is its preferred nursemaid. The meadow 28 Red Grouse Hills Partnership; Butterfly and Moth Conservation NI; pipit drops down to lowland for winter. Lagopus lagopus 28 Causeway Coast and Glens Heritage Trust; CEDaR; DARD Forest 33-40cm Service; Froglife; Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark; Mourne Heritage When disturbed red grouse explode Trust; National Trust; NIEA; NI local authorities; NMNI; PSNI; Ring 24 into flight with rapid wing beats and Andrew Kelly Andrew Kelly of Gullion AONB; RSPB; Gateway Landscape Partnership; a loud, “quarrack-rack -rack”. Grouse Wildlife. In addition to those who provided photographic images, are squat, plump, medium-sized game Mountaineering Ireland is very grateful for the advice of Anthony 23 Meadow pipit 26 Wheatear best seen as it flies low between birds that are dependent on heather McGeehan, Mary Tubridy, Mike Maunsell, Paul Dunlop, Philip Watson, Anthus pratensis Oenanthe oenanthe rocky perches is the origin of its old for food, shelter and nesting. Roy Anderson, Teresa O’Hare and particularly Vincent McAlinden. 14-15cm 14-16cm English name ‘white arse’. Often seen The loss of heather moorland Our most numerous upland bird, whose Anthony McGeehan A delightful sign of summer, wheatears in pairs, the male is more striking with through wildfires, over-grazing Cover photograph: Annalong Valley, , courtesy of call provides the ambient sound of the are the earliest visitor to Ireland’s a wraparound eye band (shades). and fragmentation from forestry Derek Watters. hils. Meadow may be small and mountains arriving from Africa in late Relatively noisy birds, their ‘chacks’ (like plantations has had a disastrous a bit ordinary to look at; but in spring 24 Stonechat March or early April. They time their the sound of two stones being knocked effect on the grouse population. the male’s simultaneous parachuting Salixcola torquatus arrival to coincide with the emergence together) interspersed with ‘wheets’ will The highest densities remaining in and singing display is a remarkable 12-14cm of . The wheatear’s white rump, attract your attention. Northern Ireland are in the Antrim Billy Clarke performance. Resident and commonly found in the Hills and the Sperrins. Beautiful mountains. Fragile environment. A special experience. 1 8 12a 12b 12c 1 Irish Hare 12 Heathers Lepus timidus hibernicus All three heathers commonly found Length 50-60cm in Ireland provide vital food, offer Native and unique to Ireland, the stability to friable peaty soils and Irish hare is a sub-species of the create habitats essential to the life mountain hare found throughout cycle of animals, insects and birds. northern Europe. Hare numbers Helen Lawless Each heather variety has a distinct have declined due to changes in soil preference and when all stages farming practice at lower level, of growth from young shoots to aged however they remain relatively would be no bogs in Ireland. Sphagnum woody plants are present, heather common in the uplands. mosses make water acidic; this prevents plays a central role in a healthy Neat, flattened vegetation amongst the decay of dead vegetation which upland habitat. grassy tussocks is an indication of results in the build-up of peat and the The loss of heather to wildfire or Zoë Devlin Zoë Devlin Helen Lawless a hare’s resting place called a form. formation of bogs. severe overgrazing has disastrous Forms provide concealment, shelter Sphagnum can hold up to 20 times its effects on the many animals, birds, 12a: Ling or vulgaris is the 12b: Cross-leaved heath or Erica 12c: Bell heather or Erica cinerea and a view of the surrounding area. own weight of water, made possible frogs and insects that shelter most abundant of our heathers; it is tetralix is found in wetter places. is the classic mountain heather As the hare’s eyes are set in the side by masses of miniature capillary-like beneath its evergreen canopy, feed tolerant of most soils and found almost Plump bell-shaped flowers hang in bringing great swathes of purple to of its head its field of vision is almost tubes and spaces similar to a natural on shoots or sip nectar from its anywhere in the mountains. Note the a bunch at the top of the stem. Note drier hillsides. Vivid purple bell-shaped 360°. When disturbed, the hare sponge. This capacity for absorption, and flowers. very small, and very pretty flower heads. the blue tinge to the leaves that flowers grow in groups along the Front dashes across hillsides at speed, its acidity which inhibits the growth of Bees gather nectar from ling and The leaves are overlapping and appear grow in a crossed formation. plant’s wiry stems. The leaves grow possibly reaching up to 50km/h. Back bacteria and fungi, led to the harvesting bell heather, which in turn makes to cling to the stem. in threes, with tufts of shorter leaves During snowy winters white of Sphagnum for use as a wound tasty and much sought-after honey, where the longer leaves join the stem. or partially white hares can dressing, particularly during World War I. most notably the Mourne Heather occasionally be seen in Ireland. Anthony McGeehan Honey. You may notice tiny holes in bell heather flowers; these have been <80cm Jul-Oct <30cm May-Sep <50cm Jun-Sep 10 drilled by bees to extract the nectar. presence could be the discovery of 25km/h seeking females and showing 2 a sett (with signs of fresh digging or their red underwings. There is reason discarded bedding by the entrance), a for their hurry; emperor moths have no distinctive 5-toed footprint, or tufts of mouths, they do not feed as adults and 13 15 18 20 stiff grey hair caught on a fence. only live for a week or two. The sett is a system of underground In summer you may happen across the tunnels and chambers which may be impressive emperor caterpillars (up Helen Lawless occupied continuously for hundreds to 6cm long) basking in the sunshine. of years. Badgers typically live in These form tough cocoons in which they social groups of two to six; in the spend the winter, emerging for their brief 10 Fir Clubmoss Robert Thompson uplands groups tend to be smaller winged freedom next spring. Huperzia selago and badgers can be solitary. The most common of Ireland’s four species of clubmoss, fir clubmoss is a 18 Lichens 7 mountain specialist not often found below Cladonia floerkeana Front Teresa O’Hare Back 5 300m. Fir clubmoss gets its name from Commonplace, yet bizarre, Robert Thompson Zoë Devlin its resemblance to a miniature fir tree. lichens grow only where the local Clubmosses are amongst the oldest 15 Round-leaved environment is pollution free. Their 20 Purple Moor-Grass 2 Fox known plants. During the Carboniferous pioneering ability to establish in Molinia caerulea Vulpes vulpes period (350 million years ago) Sundew locations too hostile for other plants A coarse perennial grass, Length (inc tail) 100-120cm clubmosses were the dominant plant life Drosera rotundifolia (such as bare rock) is the result of characteristic of wet peaty slopes and A member of the dog family, though Sivi Sivanesan, Froglife and are likely to have grown up to 30m Sunshine colours radiate from this tiny a symbiotic partnership between a valley bottoms. Purple moor-grass some scientists now claim foxes tall. Today’s clubmosses are much smaller and beautiful plant. Found only in wet fungus and an alga. has narrow, purplish flower-heads share more characteristics with cats, Roy Anderson (5-12cm) but their basic structure has acid bogs, the sundew lures insects to Lichens grow extremely slowly in a in late summer. It brings delightful the red fox has the largest natural altered little. their death, by catching them on long variety of shapes and colours, such shades to the hills in autumn when 7 Frog Clíona Ní Bhréartúin distribution across the globe of any Rana temporaria sticky hairs. The added food value from as leaf shapes or colourful trumpet- it turns a rich, reddish brown, before land mammal other than man. 5 Common Heath Hibernates Nov-Jan digesting insects helps the plant survive like stalks. Careless footwork on rock dying off to a buff colour. Foxes are extraordinarily Moth Body Length 6-9cm 11 13 Heath Spotted Orchid on impoverished peat soils. Historically or on peat could wipe out several Its characteristic tussock growth opportunistic, omnivorous predators, Ematurga atomaria Frogs are surprisingly common in the Dactylorhiza maculata used to cure all manner of ailments decades of growth. More than 1,100 creates a mosaic of humps and feeding on carrion, small mammals Wingspan 22-34mm uplands, where wet vegetation and open Ireland’s most common orchid, found in from warts to whooping cough, sundew lichen species have been identified hollows that add refuge value for (particularly rodents) and ground- Flight April – Aug water provide safety to breed, hibernate damp acid soils. Observed up close the displays a pretty little white flower atop a in Ireland. Cladonia floerkeana is a wildlife but can making for difficult nesting birds. Depending on habitat Look out for the delicate common and hunt. The skin colour is highly varied. exquisite beauty of orchids is revealed. slender stalk. bog specialist and one of a number of walking. and season, prey can heath moth flying above heather They can change their skin tone to match Orchids grow slowly, taking several years red-tipped lichens commonly known contribute 30% or more of the diet. on warm days in late May and early their surroundings within a few hours. to flower. Orchid seeds carry no food as ‘matchstick’ lichens. The cup- As food is scarcer in the uplands June. Males are easily identified by The females lay 1000-5000 eggs reserves, making them incredibly light for <10cm Jun-Aug shaped lichen to its right is another of <100cm Jun-Aug a fox’s territory may range up to their large combed antennae which (spawn). Despite starting off with vast successful wind dispersal. Survival after Ireland’s 48 Cladonia species, 1,000ha. Although the fox’s night they use to seek out females. numbers frogs are in serious decline germination is dependant upon infection C. chlorophaea. vision is five times better than Common heaths, and other moths, due to heavy predation, habitat loss and Helen Lawless with a mycorrhizal soil fungus. Dormant humans they hunt more by sound are an important food source for disease. The lucky ones might make in winter, this orchid’s distinctive spotted 16 21 than sight. many upland animals. Only a tiny it to be eight! All sightings should be leaves are noticeable in spring. 19 fraction of eggs laid by a female will recorded. In winter frogs hide in frost- 11 Bog Asphodel successfully survive to adulthood, free sites, such as under old heather Narthecium ossifragum 3 most being taken by birds during stumps, grassy tussocks and deep inside A delicate and beautiful flower that is at <30cm May-Aug their larval or caterpillar stage to feed stone walls. its best on boggy ground. The compact to hungry nestlings. The caterpillar of flower spike turns deep orange and the common heath feeds off heather. 8 Mosses remains distinctive long after flowering. Helen Lawless Sphagnum The scientific name ossifragum means 14 Ireland has many types of mosses, ‘bone breaker’ and refers to the old belief including more than 20 Sphagnum that after grazing on this plant the bones Helen Lawless 21 Bilberry/Blaeberry 6 species. Sphagnum mosses can be of sheep and cattle became brittle. In Vaccinium myrtillus distinguished by their vivid green and fact all the vegetation that shares the Zoë Devlin Found growing on dry heaths, this red hues found in soft clumps on top of same habitat is calcium deficient; bog 19 Sweet Vernal Grass dwarf shrub is deciduous. Leaves very wet, peaty soils. Each head looks asphodel was not the sole culprit. Anthoxanthum odoratum return in spring and pink ball-shaped like the bloom of edelweiss. Bright green 16 Tormentil One of the first spring grasses to flowers follow soon after. Harvesting Sphagnum serves as an indicator of very Potentilla erecta re-grow on hillsides, it is an important the delicious black fruits in summer <25cm Jul-Aug Harm Deenen wet flushes. Tormentil is found in many habitats early food source for grazing animals. is a celebrated ancient folk ritual. The Without Sphagnum mosses there but its small, bright-yellow flowers are Sweet scented; it tastes of vanilla local community around Front Back Andrew Kelly abundant in the mountain environment. when chewed and grows in tufts all still gathers to pick bilberries on 6 Emperor Moth Note the four heart-shaped petals set in across upland areas. Blaeberry Sunday at the beginning of Saturnia Pavonia 9 Lizard stone walls. front of the green square sepals. The use The Latin odoratum means “smell as August. In many parts of Ireland the 3 Badger Wingspan 50-60mm (male) Zootoca vivipara The name Z. vivipara means unlike of tormentil root for tanning leather was well” by rubbing the leaves between highly nutritious berries were picked Meles meles 60-80mm (female) Hibernates: Oct-March. other egg-laying reptiles; lizards give recorded in 1727 at a time when Ireland your hands the sweet vanilla hay for export to Britain, especially during Length (inc tail) 90-95cm Flight April–May Length (inc tail) 10-16cm birth to live young. was particularly lacking in trees. smell is released. Surprisingly, dried the two great wars. Bilberries are A shy, nocturnal hunter, with an The emperor, as its name suggests, is Ireland’s only native reptile; commonly To avoid capture, if caught a lizard can It still has uses in complementary sweet vernal grass has been used to closely related to the blueberries of omnivorous diet similar to a fox, the largest moth in Ireland. In spring found near walls and rocky places. shed its tail, leaving the hunter with a medicine today. cure hay fever. North America. badgers are rarely seen on the you may see a red blur as the males Shy and easily disturbed; it may be the twitching stump. The surviving lizard hills in daylight. Evidence of their hurtle across the uplands at up to sight or sound of one disappearing can grow a new, shorter tail, but this Rob Ward <20cm May-Sep after basking in the sun which catches takes much valuable energy. <50cm Apr-Jun <60cm Apr-Jun your attention. Lizards hibernate under Due to its elusive nature, record all 4 Ground Beetles Beetle species make up 25% of thick grassy tussocks or deep inside sightings. 14 Common Butterwort Carabus Nitens all known life forms on earth, with Pinguicula vulgaris 17 Length 13-18mm about 400,000 species described, Robert Williams, Froglife Common on bogs and wet rocks, 17 Bog Cotton water, thanks to an ingenious snorkel This distinctive member of the and perhaps as many more waiting 9 this pretty violet-like plant is a killing Eriophorum angustifolium technique where air is transported Carabidae or ground beetle family to be identified. machine! It has evolved a way of (common cottongrass) down through the plant to its roots may be found on upland blanket supplementing a lack of nutrients from Eriophorum vaginatum in anaerobic peat up to 60cm below. bog. Ireland has 211 species peaty soils by becoming carnivorous. (hare’s tail cottongrass) Hare’s tail cottongrass lacks this of ground beetles, or ‘clocks’ as 4 The distinctive yellow-green leaves The unmistakeable white heads of bog special feature and will be found they are often known. Northern feature numerous glands that secrete cotton are common on blanket bog growing in tussocks on drier ground. Ireland holds important European a sticky fluid which traps and dissolves and wet heath. Common cottongrass Unlike true cotton, the hairs of populations of C. nitens, yet there insects that come in contact with the has multiple heads and hare’s tail cottongrass lack tensile strength. are no recorded sightings south of leaf. There is little chance of escape a single head. Each cotton top is a Despite this up to about 100 years ago Carlingford Lough. as butterworts possess the strongest mass of minute seeds with fine hairs, they were mixed with wool or cotton Many ground beetles vomit on their natural glues known. designed to disperse easily in the wind. and used in the manufacture of cloth, prey and then wait for the digestive A swathe of common cottongrass may carpets and roofing felt. It was also enzymes to make their food more warn of unsafe walking terrain as the used to stuff pillows, make candle- <10cm May-Aug fluid and easier to eat. plant is capable of thriving in standing wicks and as tinder to start fires. Roy Anderson Helen Lawless