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------REPORT --ON -A ------BIRDING ----TRIP --TO -----NEPAL ~!H = ~Q!H f~~gY~gX !~§~
This report details a birding trip made by Mike Turnbull (M.T.) and Peter Kennerley (P.R.K.), two Hong Kong based birdwatchers, to Nepal in February 1989.
We flew directly to Kathmandu from Hong Kong on Royal Nepal Airlines. Ground arrangements were made in advance via Kathmandu Travels and Tours in Kathmandu who made all accommodation and transportation arrangements for us. This proved to be rather expensive but saved us immense amounts of time which would otherwise have been spent on public transport. Despite the cost, if visiting Nepal again, we would certainly make similar arrangements.
We concentrated on the lowland areas, spending most of our time in the Kosi area and Chitwan National Park at Sauriya but we also spent several days in the Kathmandu Valley which proved to be surprisingly interesting, especially Phulchowki. In fact, several more days could have been productively spent in the valley and surrounding hills and this will probably be done on our next visit.
We used "A Guide to the Birds of Nepal" by Carol Inskipp extensively and found it to be accurate throughout. As such, no directions or maps are included in this report as they can all be found in that publication. We followed the itinerary detailed below during our visit.
4th. Arrival in Kathmandu in Kathmandu from Hong Kong late evening on Royal Nepal Airlines.
5th. Visit to the summit of Phulchowki and walk down to the road below the quarries.
6th. Phulchowki, from the area near the tea huts to the road below the quarries. Late PM in the Godaveri Botanical Gardens.
7th. Drive from Kathmandu - Kosi Tappu, stopping en-route at Hetauda.
8th. Kosi Tappu & Kosi Barrage.
9th. Kosi Barrage. lOth. Kosi Tappu and drive to Sauriya (Chitwan National Park). ll-14th. Sauriya/Chitwan National Park.
1 15th. Sauriya to Kathmandu.
16th. Summit of Phulchowki to road below quarries.
17th. Godaveri Botanical Gardens and lower slopes of Phulchowki up to the gorge above the quarries.
18th. Spent exploring Kathmandu.
19th. Nagerjung from the summit to the entrance gate.
20th. Return to Hong Kong.
By following the above itinerary we recorded 340 species which we considered to be surprisingly good in the time available. A complete list of the species seen is attached to this report. ------PHULCHOWKI Phulchowki was visited on 5th,6th,16th,and 17th February. The visit on the 5th was to the summit were we arrived at 0700hrs. We spent the whole day walking to the base of the hill which took some 10 hours with excellent birding en route. Initially, the summit was extremely cold with temperatures down to _12 0 C and very few birds evident. As the sun hit the slopes birds became active and within an hour we were encountering mixed feeding flocks comprising White-browed Fulvetta's, Stripe-throated and Whiskered Yuhinas, Black-throat~d Tits and Black-capped Sibias. Within these flocks, many other scarcer and therefore more interesting species could often be found including Hoary Barwing, White-collared Blackbird, Chestnut-tailed Minla and Yellow-browed Tit. The real highlights of the morning were stolen by 3 Crimson browed Finches (1 male, 2 females/immatures) feeding by the side of the road and subsequently seen again several times as we decended the road, an immature male Rufous-bellied Bush Robin hopping about in the middle of the road just like the numerous Red-flanked Bluetails and a flock of Black-throated Parrotbills moving rapidly through the low bamboos but pausing long enough to give memorable views. As we decended, the day became hotter and birds fewer with little of interest being seen until we were on the lower slopes in the late afternoon. We then began to encounter bird flocks again but at this altitude the species were quite different to those seen higher up the hill. Laughing-thrushes were now numerous with White-throated, Striated and Chestnut-crowned being seen. Other birds of interest were Nepal Fulvetta, Black-faced, Chestnut-crowned, Golden-spectacled and Grey-hooded Warblers, Blue-winged Minla and Mountain Bulbul.
The following morning, we took the taxi to the tea huts approximately Ilalf way up the hill. After only ten minutes walk beyond the huts we were watching a flock of 8 superb Cutia's feeding on sap leaking from a tree. These birds remained in the vicinity for the next hour or so and repeatedly returned to the tree to feed. Other species feeding at the tree included Rufous bellied and Greater Yellow-naped Woodpeckers, Black-capped Sibia, and Chestnut-crowned Laughing Thrush. The remainder of the morning was spent walking down the road to the narrow valley just above the quarry. This area was interesting despite the time of day and produced Grey-sided and Rufous-chinned Laughing Thrushes, Chestnut-headed Tesia and a wren-babbler seen too briefly for specific identification. The late afternoon was spent in the Botanical Gardens at Godaveri which held many species not found on Phulchowki.
The 16th was spent visiting the upper slopes of Phulchowki and a taxi took us to the summit were we arrived at 0630. Birds were much less numerous than on our visit on the 5th. The Rufous bellied Bush Robin was found once again in the middle of the road in almost exactly the same spot where it had been on the 5th and was even more confiding than before. The walk down the road produced several Kalij Pheasants, Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker, several White-collared Blackbirds and a flock of Lanceolated Jays which gave superb views as they fed in roadside trees. However, the mixed flocks of passerines were largely absent and the day was ~uiet by comparison with our two ~revious visits.
The morning of the 17th was spent at the Botanical Gardens but after lunch, several hours were spent in the narrow valley above the quarry on Phulchowki. Again, Chestnut-headed Tesia was seen well as were most of the species seen previously on the 6th. One bird seen too briefly to specifically identify was a shortwing, probably a female Blue.
We visited Godaveri Botanical Gardens briefly in the late afternoon of the 6th and the morning of the 17th February. Little of interest was seen on the 6th, probably due to a combination of too many people and rather high temperatures. However, the morning visit on 17th was excellent. We birded the area outside the gardens, mostly along the side roads to the south of the main road until the gardens opened. These produced many interesting species including Grey-sided and Aberrant Bush Warblers, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler and a flock of Tibetan Siskins feeding in the alders growing along the streams. We went into the gardens @ 0930 hours and spent the next couple of hours seeing several species which had eluded us on Phulchowki itself. These included Brown-throated Tree-creeper, Long-tailed Thrush, Rufous-bellied Niltava, White-crested Laughing-thrush, Brown fronted Pied Woodpecker, Spotted Forktail (looking very different to the birds in S.E. China which have spots rather than crescents on the mantle) and several Little Pied Flycatchers. ------NAGERJUNG
Nagerjung was visited on 19th February. A taxi was taken to the summit and the drive up the road in the early morning proved to be exceptionally interesting for thrushes. These included Grey winged Blackbird, Chestnut Thrush, Plain-backed Thrush and Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush - all seen feeding in the road .. The summit was reaclled at 0830 hours and the remainder of the day was spent walking down the road to the entrance gate which was reached @ 1700 hours.
The upper slopes were covered in a light layer of snow which had fallen the previous evening and sno~ was falling when the summit was reached. Birds near the summit were few but included a flock of Lanceo1ated Jays near the temple and several Kalij Pheasants were seen there. However, the lower slopes were much more interesting and in retrospect, more time should have been spent there. Several species not previously seen on Phulchowki were noted on Nagarjung. These included Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Red-tailed Minla, White-browed Shrike Babbler and White tailed Robin. Thrushes were generally much more numerous and one interesting flock feeding on open ground below the trees held several Grey-winged Blackbirds, Chestnut Thrushes, White-collared Blackbirds, a single Tickell's Thrush and a couple of White's Thrushes. Also seen on the lower slopes were Thick-billed Warbler, a male Slaty-backed Flycatcher and Black-throated Sunbird.
Overall, the mountain was well worth the visit and a full day on the lower slopes, walking up from the entrance gate may have been very productive.
The journey from Kathmandu to Hetauda followed the old road which forks left off the Kathmandu - Pokhara Road shortly after dropping down from the hills surrounding the Kathmandu Valley. This road goes directly into Hetauda. Even though it was largely devoid of other traffic,it still took us some five hours to reach Hetauda which we did at @ 10.30. Occasional roadside stops were made but none for more than 5 minutes in order to maximize our time at Hetauda. At the highest point on this road we passed through an area of mossy forest which had been logged but looked interesting and time spent here could have been productive. With the exception of Blue Whistling Thrush, which were abundant, very few birds were seen along this road.
The road between Hetauda and Kosi passed through some attractive sal forest but again we did not stop to investigate. As we neared Kosi, the ground became much damper and wetland species such as Red-naped and White Ibis were seen feeding by the roadside. We reached Kosi Tappu at 19.30 hours having been travelling for some 14 hours. KOSI TAPPU AND KOSI BARRAGE ------We arrived at the reserve headquarters at Kosi Tappu @ 1930 hours on 7 February and spent the next 3 ni~hts in the Government Guest House, thanks to the kindness and ~enerosity of the warden, Mr.Tika Ram Adhikari.
At first li~ht on 8th February we were surrounded by hundreds of herons, spoonbills, ibises and storks feedin~ on pools beside the embankment separatin~ the Kosi River and its floodplains from the surroundin~ land. Eventually, we got onto the embankment where a couple of Swamp Francolins gave ~ood views. The embankment itself was an excellent place to obtain views of the multitude of passerines which inhabit the tall ~rass and reeds of the floodplain. In the course of the next few hours we obtained detailed notes and photo~raphs of Paddy field , Blyth's Reed, Tickell's and Smoky Warblers. We were also able to directly compare Chiffchaff (presumably of the race 1£!~1!§) with Dusky Warbler - particularly useful in a Hon~ Kong context.
The afternoon of the 8th was spent travelling by boat from Kosi Tappu to the Kosi Barrage, hopin~ to get amon~st the duck flocks which inhabit the river. Unfortunately, a severe dust storm blew up, greatly restricting visibility (an apparent feature each afternoon in this region). We made a couple of landings on the west bank of the Kosi River and saw two Water Buffalo which Mr. Tika assured us were the real thing despite being in a herd of several hundred feral cattle. A brief view was had of Ganges Dolphin but the large duck flocks we had expected were not located. Common Teal (2000) and Northern Pintail (7000) were the most numerous species but several other species were present in smaller numbers includin~ Falcated Duck. Other species of interest included a pair of adult White-tailed Eagles soaring over the river plus a couple of Pallas's Fish Eagles in the same area, steppe Eagle, White-eyed Buzzard, Brahminy Kite amd Red naped Ibis.
The last hour of daylight was spent on the barrage itself where a Peregrine was roosting and several Great Black-headed Gulls were seen loafin~ on the sandbars alongside Herring, Brown-headed and Black-headed Gulls.
The following day we decided to investigate the area of rough grassland to the south of the barra~e but a large tightly packed flock of Northern Pintail roosting on a sandbar to the north of the barrage temporarily distracted us. Scopin~ the flock, we quickly found a magnificent drake Baikal Teal with its irridescent head pattern ~listening in the bright early morning sunshine. We watched this bird for some la minutes until the Peregrine, which had presumably been roostin~ on the barrage decided it was breakfast time. The whole flock disappeared to the north and the Baikal Teal was not seen again. - The remainder of the mornin~ was spent to the south of the barrage in a fruitless search for the 3 specialities which are
1 supposedly found there viz; Indian Courser, Bengal Florican and Hodgson's Bushchat. We found the habitat to be severely degraded; large areas of grass had been burnt off, others had been cut, there were several small settlements in the area and numerous people throughout. We would be surprised if there was a single florican left in the area but the lack of the other 2 species was rather surprising. Nevertheless, an excellent variety of interesting species were seen in the area including Long-legged Buzzard, Short-toed Eagle, Pallid and Pied Harriers, Short-eared Owl and a Lesser Spotted Eagle which was seen to kill and consume an Indian Pond Heron.
After some 6 hours, we finally gave up our search and spent tile remainder of the afternoon in the Pink Tower watching the ducks on the Kosi River. The more interesting species recorded here included 2 female/immature Red-breasted Mergansers, a male and female Scaup, 2 immature White-tailed Eagles (different to the adults seen the previous day), several Little Pratincoles and a Rufous-bellied Plaintive Cuckoo feeding in the marshy vegetation beside the road to the tower.
A couple of hours were spent around Kosi Tappu in the early morning of loth before leaving to drive to Sauriya. A flock of @ 300 Lesser Whistling Duck were seen, a species which had so far eluded us but little else of particular note was seen.
We stopped briefly at Hetauda on our way to Kosi to search for the Ibisbills which are regularly recorded along the Rapti River. We found three with little difficulty where the road runs close to the river some 6 Km to the west of Hetauda. Also of interest here was an unusual EbY!!Q!£2EY! warbler which was provisionally identified as a Smoky Warbler PbY!!Q!QQEY! [y!!g!Y~ni~r· However, several birds of this species were recorded' at Kosi. Tappu the following day and were quite different (but had identical calls). It is possible that it was a bird of the race E~f~!!Q~!~DY~. A description of this bird is appended to this report. ------SAURIYA
We spent S nights at Sauriya, 10th-14th February. eaGh day visiting different localities both inside and outside Chitwan National Park. While being an excellent area for birds, it would probably have been better to have spent this time at Tiger Tops where the forest is more extensive and less disturbed. We found it difficult to get into primary forest but when we did, the birds seen there were more intersting. than those recorded in the much disturbed secondary forest around Sauriya.
We visited the area of sal forest to the west of Sauriya on the 11th. This was however some 90 minutes fast walk from Sauriya and since we were moving quite slowly, we did not reach it until lunchtime by which time bird activity was much reduced. The walk was through seemingly endless small villages and cultivated land which produced little of interest. By late afternoon, the birds began to reappear but these were mostly the commoner species which we were subsequently to encounter most days in good numbers.
The 12th was spent within the National Park, walking along the jeep track leading away from the Rapti River. This was much more interesting as this track went through grassland and sal forest, the grassland producing several Indian Rhinoceros plus Chestnut crowned and Aberrent Bush Warblers. The sal forest held Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, White-tailed Robin, Pale-chinned Flycatcher and numerous small bird parties which invariably contained Blyth's Leaf and Greenish Warblers, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch and lesser numbers of other species incuding Bronzed Drongo, Striped Tit Babbler, Himalayan Golden-backed Woodpecker, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch etc etc.
Having now got a feel for the area, we again went into the National Park on the 13th and went straight to the good area of sal forest which we had reached at lunchtime the previous day. Arriving at @ 0930 we followed the tracks through the forest and had an excellent days birding. A small pool in the forest was attracting numerous swifts down to drink and in the space of 20 minutes, we obtained stunning views of Himalayan Swiftlet, White rumped Needletail, Pacific Swift and Crested Tree Swift. The forest itself held Blue-bearded Bee-eate~ a pair of Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons sitting in a bare tree, Greater-necklaced Laughing thrush, White-rumped Shama, Large Cuckoo-shrike, Grey-capped Prinia, etc. The more open areas produced a couple of Sirkeer Malkohas and White-bellied Drongo while the grasslands near the river contained Large Grass Warbler and White-tailed Bush Chat.
On the 14th, we visited an area locally known as "the Lakes of 20,000 Birds". This is something of an exageration. The lakes were very unproductive, holding Lesser Whistling Duck and Bronze winged Jacana but very little else while the surrounding forest was very badly degraded. We did however find a pair of Grey headed Fishing Eagles at their nest and a pair of Brown Fish Owls
1 at their daytime roost which marked the highlights of a rather dull morning. The afternoon was spent driving around the National Park in an open-top Jeep - hopeless for birds but we did obtain good views of numerous mammals including Chital, Sambar, Hog Deer, Smooth-coated Otter and Sloth Bear - which spent some 30 seconds in the middle of the road deciding whether to attack us or not. Good views were also had of a Black Francolin, also in the middle of the road while numerous Mugger Crocodiles were seen basking on the banks of their favoured pool.
We departed Bauriya ® 0900 hour~ and arrived in Kathmandu ® ij~O hours, seeing little of interest en-route. The Pokhara Kathmandu road is in an appalling condition; extremely dusty, very deep pot holes and too much traffic. We probably spent a couple of hours longer on this road than we would have needed had it been in good condition. If
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