Photos: Anthony J. Luna VIEWPOINT • 2 Life in the Modern Tokyo Metropolis & Japan’s Enduring Fascination with Cherry Blossoms By Anthony J. LUNA Introduction the cherry blossoms are blooming, and Saitama, Kanagawa and Chiba prefectures) which forecasts when and where the holds about 26% of Japan’s total popula- I think for most people who are (and even cherry blossoms are likely to bloom, tion. Central to the area is the “Tokyo for many of those who are not) familiar which is a far-from-certain endeavor. Metropolis,” which is a metropolitan “pre- with Japan, it is no secret that “cherry With these reports, tentative dates of fecture” made up of administrative bodies, blossom viewing” is a popular national friends, family and colleagues, blankets, special wards and municipalities, and pastime. But unless you have actually our home-made bento (Japanese-style holds about 12.7 million people in an area “lived” it, I believe that it can really be dif- lunch boxes) stuffed with a variety of food of about 2,187 square kilometers. The ficult to appreciate the degree to which it and snacks, and persons designated to central area of the Tokyo Metropolis is is deeply a part of the Japanese modern secure a worthy viewing spot from very made up of 23 special ward areas and is culture. I have lived in Japan more than early in the morning not to be outdone by concentrated with much of the commer- eight years now, and although each year I multitudes of others targeting the same cial and business activity of Japan, and is feel this way more and more as sakura spot, we were ready for our such gather- the area I refer to generally as “Tokyo” in (cherry blossoms) start to bloom, this real- ings. This year things went well and I this article. ly struck me this year as I was planning my managed to participate in several gather- Tokyo has a population of approximate- own event and organizing my schedule to ings with friends enjoying good weather. ly 8.6 million residents in about 621 Imeet with various other friends and col- It only rained during one of our picnics, square kilometers with a population densi- leagues to identify the ideal time to get but even then, we had at least a couple of ty of 13,913 persons per square kilometer. together for hanami (flower or cherry blos- hours to enjoy. I repeat ... a population density of 13,913 som viewing). Was it all worth it? Definitely yes. persons per square kilometer! Planning a picnic or gathering sounds During the few hours one spends under The density of Tokyo can be appreciat- easy, but it can be challenging to get the the cherry blossoms with family members, ed in a very tangible sense if one were to timing right amidst busy schedules and friends and colleagues, time really does look out of a window of a large high-rise fickle weather. Although there are differ- almost stop. One has the chance to stop in Tokyo. You would almost certainly ent types of cherry blossoms, in Tokyo, and appreciate the very exquisite and pic- witness a seemingly endless sea of concrete one general type, somei-yoshino, that is turesque pink and white flowers, for which buildings as far as the eye can see. Or one popularly viewed by the Japanese only Japan is so famous, that vanish almost as can ride one of the main commuter trains blooms for about 10 days! What this soon as they appear, and is reminded (as is in Tokyo during the rush hour and would means is that if one works during the evident in many Japanese historical and likely encounter a number of commuters week, he or she has very limited time dur- modern poems and songs regarding (with briefcases in hand) frantically ing the weekdays or evenings to successful- sakura) that life is fleeting. At the same squeezing themselves (often with the help- ly plan a number of gatherings under the time these gatherings provide an opportu- ing hand of a station employee) into an sakura trees with family, friends and col- nity for the renewal of relationships with already impossibly crowded train car as the leagues in line with popular annual tradi- those who are important to you. doors are slamming shut. tion. One small … well, not so small … Tokyo – A True Metropolis Gourmet Food & Concrete dilemma is that the cherry blossoms do not themselves announce to the world According to Japanese government As many living in Tokyo would attest, the specific days they will bloom. sources, about half of Japan's 127 million being one of the most international and Accordingly, we, as many others in Japan people were concentrated in only 14% of densely populated cities in the world does do, started our plan by viewing two fore- the total land area in Japan as of 2006. As have its advantages. The Tokyo casts on the television. One report, of a result, the population in this area is Metropolis has more than 240 museums, course, forecasts the weather because rain extremely dense. Within this area, the world-class performing theater and arts, can put a damper on your picnic. But Greater Tokyo Area has the highest con- luxury stores that compare with those in the other reports the “sakura front,” or centration of Japan’s population. any other major city, over 3,600 hotels the trend in Japan at that time in which The Greater Tokyo Area (including and numerous great restaurants specializ- 46 JAPAN SPOTLIGHT • July / August 2008 VIEWPOINT • 2 Cherry blossom viewing at Ueno Park Cherry blossoms outside an urban complex in Shinagawa, Tokyo ing in just about any food. Most recently, over 1,200 cherry trees, which are viewed (794-1185) and was a custom in Kyoto Tokyo was awarded 191 stars to 150 daily by thousands of people and is the site which spread to Edo (today’s Tokyo) dur- restaurants by the famous Michelin Guide, for numerous group picnics sometimes ing the Tokugawa Shogunate (1603- which is more stars than any other city in larger than 20 people each. If you visit 1867) as cherry trees were transplanted to the world. Furthermore, despite the rush- during the cherry blossom season, from the Edo region. Early cherry blossom hour crowds, public transportation is early in the morning, you will behold viewing was done as part of a ceremony excellent and one does not need a car to masses of people flowing through the park held at the beginning of planting in which get around in Tokyo. Accordingly, Tokyo taking pictures with their cameras (and that year’s harvest would be forecast based is a city of great diversity of choice and camera phones) and congregating on mats on the conditions of the cherry blossoms, convenience. under the trees eating food and typically and was also practiced principally by the On the other hand, along with the large consuming large amounts of alcohol nobility and upper classes. Cherry blos- concentration of people and buildings, for (which seems to be a socially acceptable soms later would become symbols of both those who live and work in Tokyo, they and natural part of hanami) for time peri- Buddhism and the samurai class. Since are faced daily with high food and proper- ods as short as a couple of hours or as long about 1688, cherry blossom viewing par- ty prices, long commute times … and as most of the day and/or evening. In ties spread to the general population and crowds. For the many that commute to addition to the cherry blossoms them- has endured to the present. Tokyo from neighboring locations, to say selves, there are numerous foods and other Japanese history is rich with wood- the least, the days start very early and end products such as sakura tea (some offered block carvings, paintings, poems and late, and the pace is fast. Along with this, by the most exclusive hotels), sakura pota- other evidence recording the long tradi- notwithstanding the hundreds of parks to chips, sakura ice cream and sakura tion of cherry blossom viewing. Today, and gardens located in Tokyo according to bento lunch boxes, to name a few, which one can also find numerous pop songs government data and the creative use of are released seasonally and amount to big and contemporary art dedicated to the greenery throughout the city and in build- commercial business. cherry blossom. As a testament to the ings, the sheer number and scale of large For students, this time period often importance of the cherry blossom in concrete buildings in such a compact area overlaps with the end of the prior school Japanese society, the blossom is even can mute any real presence of greenery year and is a time to reflect on the past and engraved on the 100 yen coin. and open space. prepare for the new school year or the big next step. For companies, often this time An Enduring Custom A Modern Sanctuary signals the end and start of its fiscal year and similarly is a time to reflect and/or cel- While the times have changed remark- Undoubtedly, one of the principal rea- ebrate. For visitors, this is a time to visit ably from the Heian period of over 1,000 sons hanami is such an exciting time is and see in vivid detail the Japan that is years ago, cherry blossom viewing is an that it provides people, particularly in often popularly portrayed by numerous enduring custom today in Japanese soci- crowded cities like Tokyo, a chance to paintings, pictures, postcards and movies.