It wasn’t the perfect hike, but it’s about as close as I’ve been lately. Wasting Time in the It wasn’t that the weather was absolutely clear—in fact, the first day was North Cascades overcast and clouds were erasing the upper trail with a wide expanse of white. It wasn’t that the solitude was unbroken either—this was Fourth of July week- end, after all. But the varied experience was about as rewarding as any I’ve had in the moun- tains. There were wildflow- ers, wildlife, rain, clouds, sun, and views. A crystalline sunrise behind Mount Challenger and Mount Redoubt. An old forest by Andrew Engelson lookout, grueling climbs, and more panoramic views. Routefinding on snow, camping alone on the shore of an azure lake, a startled family of ptarmigans. And did I mention the views? Just another few days wasted in North Cascades National Park. CHIEFELBEIN

The trail was the S

Hannegan Pass route to AVE D Copper Ridge and Copper Lake. It’s just the start of a The pinnacle of overnight hiking: North Cascades National Park offers challenging and network of trails leading rewarding overnight trips. The distances are long and trails steep, but the payoff is a into the heart of some of chance to see some of the most spectcular mountains the world has to offer. Here, a the most rugged and hiker enjoys the view of Forbidden Peak from Sahale Arm. solitary mountains in the the world. was as if these gorgeous old mountains I’ve always loved North Cascades The Hannegan Pass Trail to Copper would only deign to show themselves in National Park. We were both born the Ridge is a sampling of all the National the pre-dawn glow, when the glaciers same year, 1968. And I’ve always been Park has to offer, a 23-mile round trip stand out in crisp relief and the razor fascinated with how few roads there are route that takes you to views of the sharp ridges cut into the profound blue here. The North Cascades Highway rugged peaks that make North Cas- sky. And all under a sliver of a crescent slashes the park in two, but the road cades National Park so distinctive: moon, of course. itself is within the Ross Lake National Mount Ruth, Mount Shuksan, The pleasures of the North Cascades Recreation Area. Other than a few Whatcom Peak, Mount Redoubt, must be earned, and are therefore that trailhead roads, the road to Cascade Mount Challenger, and the Pickets. much more delicious when you Pass, and the Stehekin Road (which has What was so extraordinary about this discover them. There are plenty of to be reached by boat, and is now hike was the way the peaks refused to dayhiking opportunities here—Cascade mostly washed out) you’ve got to see come out in mediocre light. No midday Pass and the trip up Sahale Arm is one the park by trail, on foot. washed-out haze for these peaks—it

August 2005 WASHINGTON TRAILS 1 Hope feet of cord)—although many 40 159 3 ERVICE 49 3 VANCOUVER 64 Abbotts- 79 40 3 256

S 64 campsites in the park now 1 ford 78 Hozomeen Osoyoos 126 ARK Campground British Columbia have bear-proof poles or P 27 9 Washington Grand 5 43 542 ROSS LAKE NRA 97 Forks Glacier 395 lockers. 542 49

ATIONAL Bellingham NORTH C 44 ASCADES 79

N Several great trails are 71 Concrete NATIONAL PARK 20 24 23 39 8 97 C 5 37 97 UN A 8 20 13 20 accessible from the North IT NA VICTORIA Burlington 156 20 ED DA Marblemount Winthrop S Sedro- 395 TA Mount Vernon Omak Cascades Highway. Thornton TE Woolley Rockport S LAKE Twisp 34 5 CHELAN 530 55 155 Lakes, with its spectactular Darrington NRA 153 64 46 76 103 74 50 122 view of Mount Triumph; the 9 80 EVERETT Coulee Dam Golden Horn and Cutthroat

118 Chelan Pass area on the Pacific Crest 190 2 97 SEATTLE 405 86 2 Wilbur Distances are shown in gray. 40 138 Trail north of Rainy Pass, and Miles are given first, with 64 kilometers below. 90 the Easy Pass-Thunder Creek 5 Wenatchee route, which takes you on a rugged trail into the high, Founded in 1968, North Cascades National Park offers 390 miles of maintained trails. glaciated basin of Fisher Creek. of the most rewarding hiking In the southern half of destinations in the state. the park, Cascade Pass NGELSON Likewise, hiking on the E beckons. No camping is

outskirts of the park— NDREW allowed at the pass itself A whether out of Heather (way too many boots here) Meadows east of Mount but a few sites are available Baker or the high tarns of at the toe of Sahale the Golden Horn area north Glacier. Those with plenty of Rainy Pass on the Pacific of time to burn can try the Crest Trail—is readily Cascade River to Stehekin accessible from major route, a classic cross- roads. Cascades trip that takes But the interior of the you over Cascade Pass, park is a place that few see, down to a sidetrip into because the mileages are beautiful Horseshoe Basin, high and the routes some- and eventually out to times difficult. The deep Cottonwood Camp and interior of North Cascades the shuttle bus to Stehekin. National Park is a place Another overnight off the Home Sweet Home: Park Service rangers Alex Hom and Tony where climbers and off-trail Cascade River Road is Hornstein at the summit of Copper Mountain. For the patient bushwhackers practice the Lookout Mountain- hiker, the North Cascades offers history, difficult trails, wildlife art of masochism. The Monogram Lake, with and some of the most amazing views anywhere. names of the peaks attest to views to Eldorado Peak. the difficulties encountered Nobody said the North here: Mount Terror, Mount Challenger, to spare. The route to Copper Ridge Cascades were easy. That’s what makes Mount Despair, Forbidden Peak, offers lovely campsites and a good trail. them so rewarding. Sweat-inducing and—for the lucky, Mount Triumph. But, because it’s one of the few trails in switchbacks, troublesome weather, and Many trails (such as the aptly named the northwest corner of the park, it’s a long hikes deep into remote Brush Creek Trail) are thick with new popular route. The Park Service has backcountry. But also: magnificent growth each year, and the park’s limited instituted a first-come-first-served wildflower displays, huckleberries in resources are sometimes not enough to reservation system for most August, blazes of color in autumn, keep up with the thick underbrush of backcountry campsites. Your best views of gnarly peaks and truly wild devil’s club and salal. Mountaineer Fred strategy, particulary on a weekend, is to wildlife: everything from black bears to Beckey, who was instrumental in arrive as soon as the ranger station ptarmigan. Like life, some of the best exploring the peaks here, dubbed these opens (for the Copper Ridge hike, in hikes are filled with joy and hardship. hopelessly lush foothills “Green Hells.” the tiny town of Glacier on the Mount The North Cascades have an abun- Still, there is hope for the sane Baker Highway). You’ll also want to dance of both.
backpacker who has time and stamina bring along bear-bag (stuff sack and 35

2 WASHINGTON TRAILS August 2005 Where to Waste Your Time A selection of great overnights in the North Cascades

There’s a guidebook called Don’t Thornton Lakes Waste Your Time in the North Round-trip: 10.5 miles, CHIEFELBEIN

Cascades by Kathy and Craig S

1 – 2 days AVE

Copeland (Wilderness Press, D 1996). I’ve always had to chuckle Elevation gain: 2,600 feet at that title—as if spending time in, 400 feet out anywhere in the North Cascades Either a day hike or an overnight could be considered a waste. (there are few campsites here, so Better one day wasted in the North get your reservation early, on a Cascades than a day spent weekday preferably), this steep trail profitably in Redmond or Seattle. leads to several deep lakes at the Here’s a sampling of trips that will base of Mount Triumph. To get let you experience the difficult there, drive the North Cascades pleasures of North Cascades Highway 11 miles east of National Park. Remember, Marblemount, turning on Thornton A camping paradise on Ruth Arm, backcountry permits are required Creek Road, 5 miles to road’s end. above Hannegan Pass. for all overnight trips in the park. For more information, call the Creek Campground is thought by Sourdough Mountain many to be the most beautiful part North Cascades Wilderness Round trip: 11 miles, Information Center at (360)873- of the park. To reach the trailhead, 4500, ext.39 or visit www.nps.gov/ 1 – 2 days drive Highway 20, 6.2 miles east of noca/hiking.htm. —A.E. Elevation gain: 5,100 feet Rainy Pass to a spur road and trailhead. Some of the most awesome views of the park: to Diablo Lake far Hannegan Pass and Golden Horn below, east to Jack Mountain and Round trip: 23 miles, Copper Ridge north and west to the jagged Picket Round-trip to Copper Range. This is the historic lookout 2 days minimum Lake:23 miles, 2 – 3 days where poet Gary Snyder spent Elevation gain: 2,700 feet in, Elevation gain: 4,500 feet summers spotting fires in the early 600 feet out 1950s. Trailhead to Sourddough is in, 1,100 feet out This is a place that isn’t actually in located in the tiny town of Diablo, the park, but should be. It’s a Unforgettable views from an old behind the covered swimming pool. landscape of high meadows, grand lookout, crystaline blue lakes, and views and tiny mountaintop tarns. a jaunt up 6,186-foot Hannegan Trailhead is at the north side of Peak make this a jewel of a hike. Easy Pass to Thunder Creek Rainy Pass on Highway 20. Hike Beyond Copper Ridge, you can One-way (park cars at each north on the Pacific Crest Trail 5.5 descend to the Chilliwack River for trailhead): 19 miles, 3 –4 days miles to Cutthroat Pass; the route a 34-mile total loop trip that takes Elevation gain: 5,300 feet then continues on the PCT to you to Whatcom Pass via a brushy Nothing is easy about this trip: 19 Granite Pass, and at 2 more miles a route and creek ford back to miles of rough, steep trails, a tricky stream and camp. From here a faint Hannegan Pass. To reach this footlog over a creek , and more than trail leads north to Lower and Upper trailhead, drive highway 542 to one vertical mile of elevation gain. Snowy Lakes with views to Golden Nooksack River Road 32, driving But this multi-day trip into Fisher Horn and peaks in every direction. 6.7 more miles to Hannegan Creek Basin and on to the Colonial Campground and trailhead.

August 2005 WASHINGTON TRAILS 3