Dear

Subscriber TheGEMüTLICHKEIT Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland The Price of Gas in Europe A longtime subscriber recently emailed an article about worldwide gas b a s e l prices. His accompanying comment Basel, Switzerland’s second city, is known for its location on the Rhine where three na- was, “Get the pass, ride the train.” tions are joined, and for a relaxed lifestyle that’s said to be the least uptight in the country. The article noted that, at $2.72 per gallon for regular unleaded, gasoline ou understand a lot about Basel If location is everything in real es- is, in relative terms, a bargain for when you realize that its airport tate, then Basel is a prime example of Americans, while Canadians pay $3.68. Y is the Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg how location has molded the history, Though it’s much cheaper in places like Airport. Basel, you see, is in Switzer- economy, art, and architecture of this land, but Mulhouse old European city as it developed into a Cairo ($1.17), Kuwait City (85 cents), by Sharon Hudgins Tehran (32 cents), and Caracas (six is a French town and modern metropolis. cents), the subscriber’s reference was Freiburg is in Germany. The airport The Rhine River curves through undoubtedly to the $6.04 per gallon name is concrete evidence that multiple Basel, bisecting the city into Grossbasel price in Paris and $6.82 in Berlin. cultures have shaped this city on the (Greater Basel) and Kleinbasel (Lesser converging borders of three nations. He has a point. The car I drive here Basel), with the historic central part Basel (or Bâle in French) is, of course, in Oregon has a 22.5-gallon tank and of the city on both banks of the river Swiss but it also serves as a ‘big-city’ for requires high-octane gasoline. Premium comprising the Altstadt (Old Town). the Black Forest area of southwestern unleaded is currently about $3.27 per In former times, Grossbasel was the Germany, and for portions of Alsace in gallon, thus an 18-gallon fill-up is ecclesiastical side of the city, site of the northeastern France. Münster nearly $60. But if we were gassing up in massive red sandstone (Ca- thedral) built between 1019 and 1500, Berlin the tab would be $123. Thinking Each of these regions has left an originally a Catholic church, now a of the cost of gas in those terms, one imprint on Basel that goes far beyond Protestant one, where the Catholic hu- can understand and sympathize with the name on the airport. Customs, lan- manist philosopher Erasmus is buried. our reader’s “ride the train” comment. guages, and cuisine all bear the mark of their influence. In the Middle Ages, Grossbasel was also But let’s not ditch that car too Continued on page 3… quickly. The European vacation driv- ing experience is a different one than in North America. Cars in Europe are Zürich Airport’s Hidden Charms smaller and get better mileage. In ad- mongst those who love to watch ing on foot. It can also be joined via dition, the flexibility and convenience planes, Zurich Airport has a numerous paths from Kloten. The loca- of a car offers certain advantages over A singular reputation for excel- tion is difficult to miss as the road and even the most frequent European rail lence and, at a time when the Swiss franc the executive terminal both sit at the schedules. Seeing Europe by automo- exchange makes Switzerland a very end of Runway 28, the primary takeoff bile is still a highly desirable travel pricey destination, by Ron Kuhlmann runway for short and medium haul mode and, in many cases, cheaper than the airport and its flights. Follow your eyes and ears. rail travel. Since Germany is our “beat” attractions provide an inexpensive day Facing the executive terminal, a we’ll use prices in that country to make of exploration and observation certain to path leads to the right and continues a few rail-car comparisons. please kids as well as most adults. down the entire perimeter fence of the It is now possible to rent a compact A Walk in the Woods airport. On the left, you can observe the car for one week in Germany for about airport operations as Runway 14/32, $227 including value-added tax, road Adjacent to the security fences the strip on which all aircraft land, is tax, and unlimited miles. That’s $32.40 around the airport’s perimeter are just beyond the perimeter fence. On the per day. Keep it a second week and trails that allow for a delightful stroll. right is a small stream and fields that the price drops to $30.79/day. With air, The shortest and best of these is on the reflect the bucolic landscape one associ- four-doors and a decent-size trunk, a western perimeter, next to Runway ates with the Swiss countryside. 14/32. The path is accessed just beyond compact such as a Ford Focus or VW- Continued on page 10… Golf is more than adequate for two or the executive terminal at the end of Bi- Exchange rates as of 8/3/2010 menzaltenstrasse. This road is reached even three persons. With a gas engine 1 euro = $1.32 a compact car in Europe gets about 35 from the main terminal by walking or Swiss franc = $0.96 Continued on page 2… taking a bus to Fracht and then continu- 1 gallon diesel, Germany=$5.75 www.gemut.com August 2010 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com DEAR SUBSCRIBER is in second-class. Of course, since the towns is not always ideal, and some Continued from page 1 rail pass is limited to eight days travel, villages are served only by bus. The on six of your 14 days you will be with- trip from Freiburg to Garmisch-Parten- miles per gallon. Diesel is cheaper and out transport. Also, many towns and kirchen, for example, is at least six hours cars with diesel engines get much better villages are not served by rail. The car, (driving time is about four-and-a-half) mileage than gas-powered ones. When on the other hand, is yours for the full and involves at least two train changes. renting a car in Europe you have about two weeks to drive wherever your heart Big edge to the car. a 50-50 chance of getting a diesel engine desires, over the most remote backroads Itinerary #4: City Tour of Frankfurt- which would lower fuel consumption to and to the tiniest hamlets. Hamburg-Berlin-Dresden-Munich, 14 around 45mpg. In fact, a diesel engine Itinerary #2: Frankfurt-Southern days. This is exclusively a big city itiner- will reduce fuel cost by about one-third. Bavaria-Salzburg-Vienna-Munich, 14 ary; fly into Frankfurt, fly out of Munich, Unfortunately it is rare that any Euro- days. With liberal side trips the distance with visits to Hamburg, Berlin and pean rental car supplier will guarantee in will be about 1,000 miles, with a gas cost Dresden. At $30.79 per day the rental car advance that you’ll be given a car with a of $192 and $129 diesel. Add fuel and price is $431. For 950 miles of driving, diesel engine. parking ($150) to the rental price and gas will cost $182 and diesel $122. Add Let’s cost-compare car and rail travel the total cost is $773 gas and $710 diesel. $300 for parking and the total cost to over five itineraries for two persons: (This calculation does not take into ac- drive is $913 with gasoline powered car, Itinerary #1: Frankfurt-Berlin-Mu- count that fuel in Austria is about $1 per or $853 with diesel. nich, 14 days. Begin the rental in Frank- gallon less than in Germany.) With this itinerary, only four rail furt and end it at the Munich Airport. An eight-day Germany-Austria journeys are required and since the four- Stops along the way include Berlin. With Saverpass is $730 second-class and $848 day Germany Twin Pass for two persons liberal side trips within Germany, the first-class. Add $100 for taxis and local is priced at $364 second-class and $482 total distance driven will be about 1100 transport and the train numbers are $830 first-class, rail is the hands-down choice. miles. We’ll assume your compact car and $948. Advantage automobile. Itinerary #5: Frankfurt-Paris-Zürich- gets 35mpg, though with diesel it will Itinerary #3: Countryside tour of Continued on page 12… be about 45mpg. For the price of fuel in Southern Germany, 10 days. This itin- Germany we’ll use the August 1 figure erary misses major cities and includes Using Gemütlichkeit of $6.72 per gallon of gas for a total fuel small towns on a circuit of Southern Ba- • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts outlay of $211. With diesel at $5.80 per are often available for longer stays. varia, the Black Forest and Franconia for gallon, the fuel cost for a diesel-powered • All hotel prices include breakfast unless oth- a total distance of 850 miles. The com- erwise noted. car would be $142. Add parking fees of pact rental car is $320 and, since there • Local European telephone area codes carry $150 and your total cost for the rental car the “0” required for in-country dialing. To phone are no major cities, parking is reduced to for two weeks is $792 ($723 diesel). establishments from outside the country, such $50. Gas is $163 (diesel $110). That makes as from the USA, do not dial the first “0”. A Germany Twin Pass that allows the total rental cost $533 with a gasoline- travel within Germany on eight days in powered car and $480 with diesel. Back Issues Website a one month period is $518 second-class, Many back issues in PDF format from January 1993 The German Twin Pass for six days or $702 first-class. Add $100 for taxis and are available free to subscribers only at www.gemut. second-class travel is $432 and $592 first- com. To access the issues, enter the user name and public transportation and your total cost class. Add $100 for local transport and password published in this space each month. The is $618 second-class and $802 first-class. the rail travel cost is $532 or $692. Rail new codes are: Score one for the train, provided travel travel connections among small German User Name: asel Password: 5652

Vol. 24, No. 7 Hotel Restaurant Rating Key August, 2010 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Publishers: RobertRobert H. H. & & Elizabeth Elizabeth S. S. BestorBestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor: Executive Editor: RobertNikki H. Goth Bestor Itoi Contributors: Contributors: Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, JimTom Johnson Bross Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: PaulS haronT. Merschdorf Hudgins Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionOnline Services: Dept: KurtKurt SteffansSteffans SubscriberSubscriber T Travelravel S ervices:Services: Andy andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura RiedelRiedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 UpCountry Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 for 10 issues, $49 via email. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

Gemütlichkeit  August 2010 http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com Basel Basel Basics floors of a superbly restored medieval Continued from page 1 Population: 200,000 mill near the Rhine. In addition to view- ing the fascinating historical exhibits on home to the bishops, priests, and monks Elevation: 244 meters (800 feet) paper-making, writing, and printing, that served the Catholic Church, as well Visitor information: Tourist & Ho- you can see paper being made with old as the craftsmen whose skills were in tel Information, Steinenberg 14 (at wooden, water-powered equipment; great demand as the city expanded. Barfüsserplatz), CH-4010 Basel, tel. make paper by hand yourself; watch Symbolic of the city’s wealth and power +41/61-268-6868, fax 268-6870, info@ demonstrations on paper marbling, is the ornate red Rathaus (Town Hall) on basel.com, www.basel.com. Addi- printing, and bookbinding; and learn the Marktplatz, the hub of Grossbasel’s tional information about Basel’s muse- how to write with a quill pin. Even the Altstadt. ums at www.baselmuseums.ch. gift shop is an educational experience. On the other side of the river, Klein- Driving distances: For pure pleasure, spend time in basel began as two fishing villages that the delightful Puppenhausmuseum grew to become the secular side of the Berlin 863 km/539 miles Bern 94 km/58 miles (Doll House Museum) on a corner of the city during the Middle Ages. After the busy Barfüsserplatz. There you’ll find Frankfurt 328 km/204 miles religious Reformation and cultural a wonderful collection of thousands of Renaissance in the 1500s, these urban Geneva 260 km/162 miles charming teddy bears, from tiny to gi- social and geographical distinctions on Munich 395 km/247 ant, inhabiting hundreds of doll houses both sides of the Rhine declined in im- Paris 571 km/357 and stage settings. Then take a tram to portance. Meanwhile, Basel’s economy Strasbourg 139 km/86 miles the pleasant suburb of Riehen to see the flourished from the paper-making and Vienna 828 km/miles interesting Spielzeugmuseum (Toy Mu- printing industries that began in the seum) in the historic Wettenstein house, Zürich 85 km/53 miles 1400s, the manufacturing of silk ribbons whose rooms display old wooden toys, Nearest airports: in the 17th century, the establishment EuroAirport Basel- model trains, paper theaters, stuffed of major chemical and pharmaceutical Mulhouse-Freiburg, just across the animals, board games, and other child- firms in the 19th and 20th centuries, and, border in France, is 6 kilometers from hood treasures. throughout Basel’s history, access to the city center and is served by several trade along the Rhine River. international airlines. Zürich Interna- But there’s more to Basel than mu- seums. Enjoy a relaxing stroll along Switzerland’s oldest university tional Airport is 72 km (45 miles) from Basel. the Rhine promenade on both sides of was founded in Basel in 1460 and soon the river. Although Basel is connected Rail connections: became a center of humanist learning Basel is a major by six bridges over the river, it’s more and debate. And Basel has long prided transportation hub with 3 railroad fun to cross on one of the little wood- itself on the intellectual curiosity, open- stations in the central city, all with en, water-powered ferries that ply the mindedness, and tolerant attitudes of its excellent connections to other Euro- Rhine from four locations. Just ring the inhabitants. Today it’s also considered pean cities: Swiss SBB, French SNCF, bell on the jetty to summon the ferry- to be “the cultural capital of Switzer- German Badischer Bahnhof. man from the other bank. The boat is land,” home to nearly 40 museums, plus Public transportation: Excellent tram tied to a cable strung across the river, numerous art galleries, theaters, and and bus system within the city and to and the fast-flowing current propels concert halls. outlying suburbs. Free “Mobility Card” the ferry to the other side. Art lovers flock to theKunstmu - for free transportation on the city’s Every weekday until 1:30pm a color- seum Basel (Fine Arts Museum) with system, with every hotel registration. ful open-air food market featuring local its outstanding exhibits of paintings and products is held on the Marktplatz; go lection is celebrated for its outstanding drawings from the 15th to 21st centuries, early for the best selection. Shop for an- aggregation of antiquities, including including the world’s largest collection tiques on Saturdays from 7:30am to 4pm Egyptian art, Greek and Roman sculp- of works by the Holbein family. The at the flea market on Petersplatz. On the tures, and ancient Greek and Etruscan Kunsthalle Basel focuses on contempo- second and fourth Wednesdays of each vases. One of the largest museums rary, often avant-garde art. Four decades month there’s also a flea market on the of its kind in Switzerland, Basel’s of whimsical, animated iron sculptures Barfüsserplatz, from 7am to 7pm. by the Swiss artist Jean Tinguely are Historical Museum houses the most displayed in the Museum Tinguely, and important cultural history collection From the end of November until the Fondation Beyeler (in the suburb of the Upper Rhine region. It is exhib- Christmas, the oldest and largest Christ- of Riehen) has a permanent collection ited in four locations around the city: mas market in Switzerland is held in of modern art supplemented by major the Franciscan Barfüsser Church, the Basel, with 120 brightly lighted stalls temporary exhibitions each year. Kirchgarten House (an elegant private selling their wares in the Old Town on mansion), the Music Museum, and the the Grossbasel side of the river. Basel History buffs will find plenty to Coach Museum. also boasts the longest Christmas-light- them interest in Basel. The Basel Mu- bedecked street in Europe, along with Don’t miss the Basler Papiermühle seum of Ancient Art and Ludwig Col- thousands of other lighted decorations (Basel Paper Museum) located on four Gemütlichkeit  August 2010 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com on its shops and public buildings. Dur- Many hotels don’t include breakfast Contact: Hotel Krafft Basel, Rheingasse ing the Lenten season Basel celebrates in the quoted price, an item that can add 13, CH-4058 Basel, tel. +41/61-690-9130, its own famous Fasnacht (Fasching, significantly to your final bill. Those who fax 690-9131, [email protected], Carnival), which begins at 4am on the prefer a light morning meal can save www.krafftbasel.ch Monday after Ash Wednesday and lasts by breakfasting on a roll or pastry with Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 14/20 for exactly 72 hours. coffee or tea at the nearest pastry shop Hotel au Violon Travelers planning a Basel visit or bar. This is an old prison on a hill in should be aware that during the city’s Hotel prices are typically higher the heart of historic Basel that has been two major, annual international trade during the week than on weekends, and, converted into a small modern hotel. Its fairs—Art Basel (Basel Art Fair, showcas- as mentioned, are considerably elevated central location is a plus and an elevator ing classical to contemporary art) in mid- during the two big annual trade fairs, from reception whisks guest down to the June, and BaselWorld (Watch and Jewelry with most hotels booked a year in ad- busy Barfüsserplatz, a major tram ex- Show) scheduled around Easter—prices vance. change on the Grossbasel side of the river. at hotels and restaurants are considerably Prices below include breakfast unless Au Violon also houses a popular bras- higher. Without booking far in advance, otherwise noted. serie-restaurant (see restaurant reviews) it is very difficult at these times to find a and offers a quiet cobblestone courtyard. hotel room in or near the city. Hotel Krafft Rooms in the converted cells are Built in 1872 and recently completely BASEL HOTELS quiet, small, and monastically simple, renovated, the three-star Hotel Krafft each with a small bathroom, no radio When checking into a Basel hotel, offers a good combination of ’s or TV, and no decoration. Those in the each guest receives a “Basel Mobility location, comfort, and style Editor Choice former police station section are more Card” for free transportation on the at moderate prices. Situated spacious and overlook the old city. Num- city’s excellent, clean, efficient public on the bank of the Kleinbasel side of the ber 10 is large and well furnished, with a transportation system of trams and bus- river, the four-story hotel offers excel- small TV. es. But “there’s no such thing as a free lent views of the Rhine and the old city lunch.” Hotel prices do not include the on the opposite shore. There’s a literary Au Violon is perhaps best for rail additional CHF 3.20 city tax per person connection, too: in the 1920s, Nobel Prize travelers arriving without much luggage, per day, charged on your hotel bill, some Winner Hermann Hesse wrote part of as it has no parking facilities and can of which pays for those “free” transpor- his classic novel, Steppenwolf, in room even be difficult to reach by car. Parking tation cards. Number 401. in a public garage several blocks away costs CHF 25/day and there is no hotel Key Websites for the Traveler Today, each of the hotel’s 48 rooms • www.gemut.com Gateway site for discount. Very friendly and helpful staff. travelers to Germanic Europe, including car is decorated in modern style with hard- rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, wood floors and simple furniture. Num- Daily Rates: Singles CHF 120-182, and past issues (free access to back issues for ber 406 is a junior suite with a terrace doubles CHF 160-202. Breakfast buffet subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). on the Rhine, a fireplace, and tasteful CHF 15/person • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin Contact: Hotel au Violon, Im Lohnhof 4, database of hotels and restaurants, plus great furnishings. Number 15 is a spacious interactive trip planning tools standard double facing the river, with a CH-4051 Basel, tel. +41/61-269-8711, fax • www.travelessentials.com Guide- nice balcony. Although the rooms don’t 269-8712, [email protected], www. books, maps, travel accessories, luggage, have mini-bars, there’s a sitting area/li- au-violon.com all at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use discount code gemut2010. brary on each floor with free coffee and Rating: Quality 10/20, Value 10/20 • maps.google.com Amazing map re- tea-making facilities. Parking is available Hotel Der Teufelhof source. Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great in a public car park two blocks from the detail city & country. Satellite & terrain views. hotel at a 25-percent discount. Billing itself as a “Culture and Guest • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en House,” the Teufelhof comprises two German rail website, with train schedules The Krafft has no elevator. old, adjacent, completely renovated throughout Europe, as well as Germany. The breakfast buffet is served in • www.sbb.ch/en/ Swiss and Euro- buildings: the Art Hotel and the Gallery pean rail schedules an attractive large room with a terrace Hotel. But there is much more. • www.ski-europe.com Top Web re- overlooking the river; it’s also the hotel’s This somewhat quirky multipur- source for skiers with much info on Alpine resorts restaurant, which offers lunch and din- pose establishment, set on a hill in the • www.myswitzerland.com Website ner. The popular bar is in a building center of town, also houses the upscale of Switzerland’s national tourist authority across the street, which also has addi- • www.germany-tourism.de Germa- Michelin one-star Bel Etage Restaurant, ny’s national tourist authority tional guestrooms. Friendly staff. the more casual Weinstube, the Teufelhof • www.austria.info/us Austria’s Daily Rates: Standard and superior Café-Bar, which serves light meals and national tourist authority singles CHF 150-295, doubles CHF pastries, and an “Archeological Cellar” • www.historicgermany.com Web- site for an alliance of historic German cities 250-350, junior suites CHF 300-360. The where wines are poured in an under- • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on elec- higher prices are for rooms with a Rhine ground mini-museum within the old tronics for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. River view. city walls. Completing the ensemble are

Gemütlichkeit  August 2010 European Auto Rental Book Hotels Online Travel MArT Germany Car 1-week xtra day www.gemut.com www.gemut.com Opel Corsa $207 $30 A website for travelers to VW Golf (w/upgrade*) $207 $30 Three-star-plus. hotels from: Opel Astra (Auto) $327 $48 Germanic Europe VW Passat (w/upgrade*) $247 $35 Baden-Baden ...... €60 VW Passat (Auto) $393 $56 Berlin ...... €59 Book European Travel Audi A4 $379 $54 Frankfurt Airport ...... €59 Travel shopping is easy at www.gemut. MBZ C180 (w/upgrade*) $267 $38 Garmisch-Partenkirchen ...... 69 € com. You can now book hotels, purchase MBZ C180 (auto/GPS) $390 $56 Munich ...... €59 rail passes and point-to-point rail tickets, MBZ E200 (Auto/GPS) $483 $69 Munich Airport...... €49 VW Touran $347 $50 buy travel insurance, and request quotes Wiesbaden...... €72 VW Golf SW $284 $38 Graz...... €54 on transatlantic airline tickets and rental VW Passat SW $327 $47 Salzburg ...... €49 cars. Secure, one-stop European travel Audi A4 SW (GPS) $377 $54 Steyr ...... €99 shopping at www.gemut.com BMW 530 SW (Auto/GPS) $613 $88 Vienna ...... €36 Volvo V70 SW (GPS) $419 $60 Vienna Airport ...... €79 VW Sharan 7-pass $676 $97 Grindelwald...... CHF150 Your Berlin Headquarters VW Minibus 9-pass $676 $97 Interlaken...... CHF120 Austria Lucerne ...... CHF99 Hotel Art Nouveau Zürich ...... CHF110 K'Damm & Savignyplatz neighborhood Fiat Punto $237 $34 Zürich Airport...... CHF110 near many fine shops and small restaurants. FOrd Focus $253 $36 Mention Gemütlichkeit for 10% discount VW Golf (Auto) $457 $65 Mercedes B-Class $306 $44 Editor's choice. Gemütlichkeit's Peugeot 407 $327 $47 Trip Planning & Tel. 888-517-4342, Fax +49.30.32774440 Skoda Octavia $340 $49 Email: [email protected] VW Touran (Auto) $442 $63 Booking Service web: www.hotelartnouveau.de Ford Focus Wagon $283 $40 • Hotel Bookings Skoda Octavia Wagon $429 $61 Fall airfares to Europe Renault Traffic 9-Pass $643 $92 • Hotel/Restaurant Recommendations Switzerland • Backroads Itineraries Consolidator Air Fares Best fares on Lufthansa, American, Delta, Opel Corsa $263 $38 • Self-Guided Auto/Rail Tours United, British Air, LTU, Northwest, Swiss, Opel Astra $287 $41 Ford Focus (Auto) $402 $57 Ask about our individually Atlanta...... $428 Opel Vectra $409 $58 tailored 14-day “Great Little Boston...... $329 Audi A4 (Auto/GPS) $977 $140 Hotels & Restaurants of Chicago...... $489 Toyota Avensis (Auto) $476 $68 Germany” auto tours Dallas...... $410 Opel Zafira $458 $65 VW Golf Wagon $408 $58 Denver...... $645 800-521-6722 Ford Galaxy Van $579 $83 Los Angeles...... $532 Renault 7-Pax Van (auto) $757 $108 Miami...... $940 • Upgrades through 11/30/10. Discounts for longer New York...... $374 rentals. All rates quoted in this ad are as of 5/10/10, Orlando...... $430 subject to change without notice but lock-in at booking. Rates based on one-week booking . Rates Seattle...... $568 include unlimited mileage, 3rd party liability ins. San Francisco...... $637 but do not include VAT, CDW, theft insurance, Washington DC...... $445 road tax, and airport fees. Business Class ...... $2700 to $4000 Best Current Deal Fares available from all U.S. gateways • Through Nov. 30, 2010, drive a Fullsize IMPORTANT: Fares are round trip to Germany for Mercedes C200 in germany for a week for mid-week travel and do not include tax, fees, & fuel $280, including 19% VAT. surcharge. Call for a to-the-penny quote or get an email quote at www.gemut.com Cars also available in most European countries 800.521.6722 800-521-6722

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 Get the Latest Rail Prices at Gemut.com Austria-Czech Pass Germany-France Pass buying rail passes in 2010 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl Because of currency fluctuation, pass 4 days in 2 months $243 $207 $158 4 days in 2 months $430 $388 $388 $350 $301 Avg Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 33 $ 28 $ 21 5 days in 2 months $475 $428 $428 $386 $333 prices are changing rapidly. Prices 6 days in 2 months $520 $468 $468 $418 $366 CZECH-GERMANY Pass 1 Adult Saver* Youth 8 days in 2 months $611 $550 $550 $479 $428 listed here are approximations. At 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 10 days in 2 months $701 $632 $632 $550 $496 5 days in 2 months $377 $310 $310 $266 $266 www.gemut.raileuorpe.com you can 6 days in 2 months $419 $344 $344 $296 $296 Germany-Switzerland Pass 8 days in 2 months $491 $408 $408 $352 $352 1 Adult Saver* Youth securely buy the listed passes, as well 10 days in 2 months $566 $471 $471 $410 $410 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 5 days in 2 months $452 $385 $318 as many others, plus book individual EUROPEAN EAST PASS 6 days in 2 months $498 $424 $350 Austria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, Slovakia 8 days in 2 months $589 $503 $414 tickets. Or, for current prices, and to 5 days in 1 month $299 (1Cl) $209 (2Cl) 10 days in 2 months $681 $582 $479 place a rail pass order, call 800-521- Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $36 $28 ITALY Rail Pass FRANCE RAlL PASS Adults Senior Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 6722x3, though we no longer book 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 3 days in 1 month $293 $250 $268 $217 $186 3 days in 2 months $244 $199 $208 $169 $161 city-to-city tickets by phone. For Euro- Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 45 $37 $40 $ 33 $28 Avg Extra Rail Day $30 $24 $25 $20 $19 pean timetables go to www.bahn.de. Austria-Switzerland Pass FRANCE SAVER PASS 2 Adults* Adults Saver* Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl EURAILPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 3 days in 1 month $249 $215 4 days in 2 months $366 $311 $257 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 39 $ 31 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 41 $35 $28 15 consecutive days $756 $641 $491 FRANCE-ITALY PASS consecutive days $980 $832 $636 SWISS SAVERPASS & SWISS PASS 1 month $1218 $1032 $793 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 1 Adult Saver* Youth 2 months $1719 $1461 $1118 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 3 months $2120 $1809 $1382 4 days in 2 months $351 $307 $307 $271 $232 5 days in 2 months $391 $341 $341 $301 $258 Class Class Class Class Class Class EURAIL FLEXIPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 6 days in 2 months $432 $377 $377 $332 $283 4 consec. days $399 $266 $340 $226 $299 $200 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 7 days in 2 months $473 $410 $410 $360 $313 8 consec. days $576 $384 $490 $328 $432 $290 10 days in 2 months $893 $758 $583 8 days in 2 months $513 $448 $448 $394 $341 15 consec. days $697 $465 $593 $395 $523 $350 15 days in 2 months $1173 $999 $763 9 days in 2 months $554 $483 $483 $426 $366 22 consec. days $805 $536 $685 $457 $604 $403 EURAIL SELECTPASS 10 days in 2 months $595 $519 $519 $454 $396 1 month $885 $590 $753 $503 $664 $443 3 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth France-Switzerland Pass SWISS SAVER FLEXIPASS & SWISS FLEXIPASS 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1 Adult Saver* Youth 2 or more Adults* 1 Adult 5 days in 2 months $479 $407 $312 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 6 days in 2 months $529 $451 $346 4 days in 2 months $376 $319 $265 Class Class Class Class 8 days in 2 months $628 $536 $407 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 42 $35 $29 3 days in 1 month $326 $217 $383 $255 10 days in 2 months $727 $615 $470 4 days in 1 month $395 $263 $463 $309 GERMAN RAILPASS 5 days in 1 month $457 $305 $536 $358 4 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Youth Twin Pass* 6 days in 1 month $519 $347 $609 $407 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. SWISS CARD 5 days in 2 months $536 $453 $348 3 days in 1 month $364 $277 $222 $280 $204 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6) $ 45 30 $17 $31 $23 1 month - 1 round trip $261 (1-Cl) $187 (2-Cl) 6 days in 2 months $586 $500 $381 plus 50% discount on rail tickets 8 days in 2 months $684 $582 $444 10 days in 2 months $782 $663 $506 AUSTRIA-Germany Pass SWISS TRANSFER TICKET 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 month - 1 round trip $196 (1-Cl) $130 (2-Cl) 5 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 5 days in 2 months $390 $332 $332 $285 $285 (*Prices per person, based on two or more traveling together at all 5 days in 2 months $591 $501 $384 6 days in 2 months $429 $365 $365 $315 $315 times. **Junior & Youth fares apply only to passengers under 26. 6 days in 2 months $641 $544 $415 8 days in 2 months $510 $433 $433 $372 $372 Where senior fares are offered, 60 is qualifying age.Children 4-11 pay 8 days in 2 months $740 $627 $479 10 days in 2 months $593 $504 $504 $433 $433 half the adult fare including Saverpass fares except Switzerland where 10 days in 2 months $835 $708 $541 kids under 16 are free with a parent.) 15 days in 2 months $1059 $901 $689 Germany-Benelux Pass 1 Adult Saver* Youth AUSTRIAN RAILPASS 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT PRICES: The US dollar prices on this page are 1st Cl 2nd Cl Child 1st Child 2nd 5 days in 1 month $405 $305 $305 $247 $247 based on the euro and are subject to change with currency fluctuation. Pass 3 days in 1 month $201 $140 $101 $71 Avg. Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $43 $33 $33 $24 $24 orders will be processed in dollars, but amounts charged may vary from Avg Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $28 $19 $14 $10 prices shown on this page. Product # Days 1st/2nd Class Circle one Passenger Name (First and Last as on Passport) Country of Residence Price

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Fax form to 541-488-8468 or mail to: Daytime Phone______U.S. Depart. Date______or phone 800-521-6722 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520 * 5-percent off these rates for Gemütlichkeit subscribers http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com a small theatre for cabarets, satires, and to offer the best value of any five-star been renovated, restored, added to, and concerts, and a wine-and-gourmet-food luxury property in Switzerland. Located finally, in 1874, turned into an elegant shop. directly on the Rhine in Basel’s Altstadt, brewery-restaurant. Today it retains sev- The Teufelhof’s Gallery Hotel, in a it has recently been restored to former eral beautiful historic rooms with carved former convent, has 24 rooms with white glory and is the stopover of choice for wood paneling, frescoed walls, stained walls, hardwood floors, very simple rich and famous Basel visitors (the guest glass windows, and a large and faithful furniture, and, in order to direct guests’ book is veritable Who’s Who in the world clientele. Overflow seating is available in focus to the changing art exhibits in each of politics and culture). a courtyard garden surrounded by half- room, TVs by request only. The Art Hotel The hotel’s 101 guestrooms are deco- timbered buildings. is equally modern, with eight rooms rated in neo-classic and Art Nouveau Recently the three-course “Weekend and a lone suite, all decorated by a well- styles, with antique furniture, original Menu” featured a big salad garnished known contemporary artist. paintings, and top-line modern ameni- with a generous serving of excellent fried Daily Rates: Singles CHF 190-395, dou- ties such as flat-screen TVs and Bang & liver slices, followed by tender beef filet bles CHF 255-395, suites CHF 290-560 Olufsen CD/DVD players. cubes with a mushroom-and-pepper (Gallery Hotel); doubles CHF 320-415, The elegant Cheval Blanc restaurant sauce, and a large scoop of apple sorbet suite CHF 435-560 (Art Hotel). Parking is on the ground floor rates two Michelin drenched in Calvados (CHF 61.50). On CHF 25/day. stars. the standard menu, salads and appetiz- ers are priced at CHF 9.50-24.50; soups, Contact: Der Teufelhof Basel, Leon- Daily Rates: Four categories of rooms, hardsgraben 49, CH-4051 Basel, tel. CHF 11.50-13.50; small dishes (i.e., light plus three special suites. Singles CHF meals), CHF 15.50-29.50; and meat main +41/61-261-1010, fax 261-1004, info@ 300-585, doubles CHF 510-750, suites teufelhof.com, www.teufelhof.com dishes, CHF 34.50-55.50. Try the “Cor- CHF 800-4,500, breakfast CHF 40 per don Bleu Gemsberg,” a veal cutlet filled Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 11/20 person. with ham and the restaurant’s special Ramada Plaza Contact: Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, cheese fondue, flamed with Kirsch, and Blumenrain 8, CH-4001 Basel, tel. Towering 30 stories over the city, served with excellent French fries and a +41/61-260-5125, fax 260-5060, reserva- this four-star, superior-rated hotel/office generous heap of perfectly cooked fresh tion@lestroisrois, www.lestroisrois. building, is the tallest habitable edifice seasonal vegetables (CHF 45.50). The com in Switzerland. A major portion of the extensive dessert menu (CHF 9.50-13.50) Rating: Quality 18/20, Value 17/20 structure, which is on the Messeplatz includes several ice cream and sorbet (Basel Fairground), is used for offices BASEL RESTAURANTS combinations garnished with fresh fruits. while floors 5-14 comprise the hotel. Instead of an after-dinner coffee, order a In addition to many good restaurants, refreshing Eiskaffee, a parfait glass filled The 30th-floor Skylounge Bar has Basel also boasts several fine pastry with vanilla ice cream and coffee, gar- panoramic views to Switzerland, Ger- and confection shops that specialize in nished with whipped cream (CHF 9.50). many, and France. house-made cakes, tortes, fancy sand- Contact: Brasserie Löwenzorn, Gems- All 224 guest rooms are decorated in wiches, chocolates, and marzipans. Try berg 2, CH-4051 Basel, tel. +41/61-261- a warm, modern style, with light-colored Café-Confiserie Schiesser (Marktplatz 4213, fax 261-4217, HALLO@loewen- wood furniture and floor-to-ceiling glass 19), located across the square from the zorn.ch, www.loewenzorn.ch Open windows with great city views. Rathaus since 1870; or Confiserie Bach- mann at three locations (Blumenrain 1, Mon.-Sat., 11am-midnight, Sun. 10:30am- Situated directly on a tram line only Centralbahnplatz 7, Gerbergasse 51). Be 11:30pm two stops from the Altstadt, the Ramada sure to taste Basel’s special gingerbread Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 16/20 Plaza is a pleasant and convenient place call Läckerli (or Leckerli, “delicious”) sold to stay in Basel. Restaurant Schlüsselzunft at the Läckerli Huus shops (Gerbergasse In the heart of Basel’s Altstadt, not Daily Rates: Singles CHF 175-510, dou- 57 and three other locations in the city). far from the Marktplatz, Schlüsselzunft bles CHF 175-651, breakfast buffet CHF For a tasty, healthy, inexpensive lunch, combines traditional and modern cuisine 29.90 per person. (The higher end of the stop by one of the “soup bars” named with the same flair that melds old and daily rates is for superior doubles, junior So’up (Dufourstrasse 7, Am Fischmarkt new in its décor. The elegant, recently re- suites, and suites.) 10), which serve four different soups stored guild house dates from the 1300s. Contact: Ramada Plaza Basel Hotel & made fresh daily from seasonal organic Conference Center, Messeplatz 12, CH- ingredients, accompanied by salads, fresh Fish is a specialty, although meat 4058 Basel, tel. +41/61-560-4000, fax bread, and fruit. dishes are of equally high quality. 560-5555, basel.plaza@ramada-treff. The business lunch (Monday-Friday, ch, www.ramada-treff.ch Brasserie Löwenzorn 11:30am– 1:30pm) is especially recom- Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 16/20 The oldest section of this popular mended: two courses, with a choice of

Altstadt ’s two appetizers and a meat or fish main Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois restaurant dates back near- ly 700 years. Through the cen- Editor dish (CHF 52), or three courses, with a Choice The Three Kings, one of Europe’s turies, the ancient structure has choice of cheese or dessert (CHF 63). À oldest city hotels, is thought by many Gemütlichkeit  August 2010 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com la carte appetizers and soups are CHF Contact: Brauerei Fischerstube, perimeter, but this is a considerably lon- 14-26; meat and fish main dishes, CHF Rheingasse 45, CH-4058 Basel, tel. ger walk. By continuing on Bulachstrasse 36-58; and desserts, including house- +41/692-9200, fax 692-9220, info@res- into Oberglatt, it will become Bahnhof- made exotic sorbets and fine pastries, taurant-fischerstube.ch, www.restau- strasse and take you to the rail station CHF 11-18. A good wine list, too. rant-fischerstube.ch. Open Mon.-Fri. from which you can return to Zurich or Contact: Restaurant Schlüsselzunft, 25 10am-2pm, 4:30pm-midnight, Sat.-Sun. the airport. Freie Strasse, CH-4001 Basel, tel. +41/61- 2pm-midnight The walk will take two to four hours 261-2046, fax 261-2056, kontakt@ Rating: Quality 10/20, Value 10/20 depending on one’s pace and the number schluessel-zunft.ch, www.schluessel- Brasserie Au Violon of stops made to watch the goings-on. Be zunft.ch. Open Mon.-Sat. 9am-11:30pm, sure to carry water as there is none until This restaurant in the Hotel au Vio- Sun. 11:30am-11pm the viewing area has been reached. As lon features an atmospheric dining room Rating: uality alue with most paths in Switzerland, the route Q 15/20, V 15/20 with traditional French brasserie decor. is well marked and maintained. Restaurant Hasenburg Patrons are also served in an open-air The small, cozy Hasenburg (aka dining area in a tree-shaded cobblestone On the Airport courtyard. The menu focuses on French Chateau Lapin) serves traditional Swiss For those interested in plain old cuisine plated in a chic style, though and French cuisine in a casual ground- plane watching, Zurich offers two excel- quality among the various dishes is floor, wood-paneled dining room. lent options. Exiting the main terminal somewhat uneven. Appetizers, such as Service is also available upstairs in two on the arrivals level and walking to your shrimp cocktail with pink grapefruit and fancily decorated little “white tablecloth” right, you will come to a small site from endives, are CHF 24-30, while meat and rooms, and outdoors on a terrace facing which busses to the observation deck on fish dishes are in the CHF 32-40 range. a picturesque old square. the roof of Terminal E can be boarded. Try fillets of fish on sauerkraut with They operate at roughly half hour in- The lunch menu (meat, vegetables steamed potatoes (CHF 32). Desserts tervals and you may stay as long as or pasta, and salad) is reasonably (CHF 10-14) include a chocolate molten you like. There are machines for snacks priced at CHF 22.50, but many cus- lava cake with white chocolate ice cream and drinks and a speaker on the terrace tomers come for the 13 varieties of (CHF 14). The three-course Saturday broadcasts the conversations between excellent, meal-size Rösti (Swiss hash lunch menu is CHF 36. browns, CHF 16.50-23.50), including the aircraft and the tower. There are also Rösti cooked with onions, garlic, bacon, Contact: Brasserie au Violon, Im Lohnhof a few toy airplanes on springs for small cheese, mushrooms, and/or ham. Some 4, CH-4051 Basel, tel. +41/61-269-8711, children to ride. The cost is CHF 2. fax 269-8712, [email protected], are topped with a fried egg. But by far the most spectacular activ- www.au-violon.com Open Tues.-Sat., ity is a ramp-side bus tour of the airport Contact: Restaurant Hasenburg, Schnei- 11:30am-11:30pm dergasse 20, CH-4051 Basel, tel. +41/61- facilities. Offered on weekends and mid- Rating: Quality 11/20, Value 10/20 261-3258. Open Mon.-Sat.until 10pm day on Wednesdays, the tour provides Rating: Quality 11/20, Value 11/20 Zürich Airport an up-close view of the airport and its Continued from page 1 operations that may be unique in the Brauerei Fischerstube world. The hour and a half tour (multi- In the historic “Fisherman’s Dis- The path is well used by folks bik- lingual on request) includes views of all trict” on the Kleinbasel side of the ing or walking dogs so that the walk the airport functions, including a drive- Rhine, the Fischerstube is a mecca for has a communal feel as well. There are through of the fire station and the snow beer lovers. Patrons quaff four kinds benches at intervals for a sit-down if removal equipment storage area. of good Ueli-brand beer brewed on the necessary. As one reaches the end of the path, it curves to the right but clearly Finally, the bus stops at an area premises (Spezial hell, Lager hell, dunkel, midfield that sits at the junction of the weizen) and served in five sizes, from visible on the left is an aircraft spotting location, directly under the final ap- two main runways where participants 10 cl (CHF 2.40) to a whopping two are allowed to disembark and watch liters (CHF 29.20). proach to Runway 14. There is a parking lot, canteen with drinks, snacks and take-offs and landings just meters away. Out front is the simple beer tavern, bathrooms. During daylight hours the I know of no other airport where such the copper brewing tanks are at the rear area is populated with Swiss aviation spotting opportunities are offered. It was of the building, and a small dining room buffs as well as a great many families on not just the kids who were fascinated by is in-between. Upstairs is the terrace. outings. If you have or rent a bike, you the activity! The cost of this excursion is The Fischerstube offers a good se- will be one of many stopping to watch CHF 8 for adults and definitely worth lection of snacks, appetizers, and light planes approach. the price. Even those having no particu- lar fascination with aircraft are bound to dishes to accompany your beer (CHF This area is just off Bulachstrasse at 6-21), as well as larger meat main dishes be intrigued by a fully loaded 747 taking the far end of the airport (from the termi- off just meters away. (CHF 32-43) and fresh fish by weight at nals). By walking east on Bulachstrasse, daily market prices. The brewery also you have the option of walking back to The best time to take the tour is be- owns Restaurant Linde next door. the airport via paths that ring the other tween 11am and 1pm as that is the time Gemütlichkeit 10 August 2010 http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com that a great many of the intercontinental flights depart. Visit the Homes of Famous German Artists So for parents looking for kid Though they don’t seen to enjoy the mainstream popularity of their Italian, friendly activities, aircraft buffs wanting French and Flemish colleagues, over the centuries many great artists have called a special treat, or anyone interested in Germany home. The places where they lived shaped and influenced their work. the workings of an airport up-close and Some of their houses are still in historic condition and open to visitors. personal, Zurich (www.zurich-airport. • A collection of works by Albrecht Duerer can be viewed in the Nürnberg com) provides a unique and reasonably house where he lived from 1509 to 1528. His wood cuttings and altar pieces from priced experience. that period achieved a worldwide renown they have never lost. Today the house Ron Kuhlmann is the former San Fran- hosts a museum and visitors can tour Duerer’s workshop and living facilities. cisco station manager for Swiss Air and Guided tours are offered in English. www.nuernberg.de now writes about the airline industry for a • Expressionist Emil Nolde, an important member of the Brücke movement, variety of trade publications. settled in Seebuell, a small village in northern Germany near Denmark. The flow- er garden of the house he designed in 1927 was the subject of some of his most NEWS/DEALS famous paintings. The home’s angles and shapes reflect the Bauhaus architecture n Royal Castle Celebration: King Lud- of the ’20s and each window on the ground floor, where Nolde’s studio was lo- wig II, Bavaria’s “mad king” who built cated, offers a view of the garden. The house, which contains a collection of his three flamboyant castles and drowned in work, is open to the public. www.nolde-stiftung.de Lake Starnberg under mysterious circum- • Max Liebermann was one of the most influential painters of German Im- stances, will be remembered next year at pressionism. He lived most of his life in Berlin and, in 1909, began work on his “Twilight of the Gods,” part of the “Great summerhouse, a villa on Lake Wannsee, where he lived and worked from 1910 Bavarian Exhibition 2011” at Castle Her- until his death. His garden was the subject of more than 200 paintings and today renchiemsee on a island in the Chiemsee. the Liebermann Villa is a magnificent museum celebrating its 100th anniversary. For the first time since his death 125 years www.liebermann-villa.de ago some of the castle’s unfinished rooms • A renowned German expressionist* painter is Paula Modersohn-Becker. will be open to the public. See the video The last creative years of her life, until her death in 1907, were spent in the artist at www.hdbg.de/ludwig/ colony of Worpswede near Bremen. Her home has been accurately restored and is n Castle Photo Op: For fine views of open to visitors. The connected museum exhibits paintings by Modersohn-Becker two Bavarian castles, Neuschwanstein and fellow artists. www.worpswede.de and Hohenschwangau, take a boat trip * The difference between Impressionism and Expressionism? Here’s one explanation: on the Forggensee. From June 1 through if it looks like something real but is not too detailed, it’s Impressionism. If it doesn’t look October 15 boats depart Füssen nine like much of anything it’s Expressionism. times daily. http://bit.ly/b9ZbQi n New Hotel for Berchtesgaden: Since ation of German designer, Bernhard Will- with breakfast, Vienna Card for public the closure several years ago of the helm and come in a hand-numbered box transport, and free entry to a selection gemütlich, family-run Hotel Geiger, Ber- with a certificate of authenticity. Franz of Vienna sights. Prices start at E89 per chtesgaden has been without top-class 24ks are not cheap, but you guessed that person. Book at the Vienna Tourist Office accommodations. In May, however, Ho- already. There are also stores in Berlin, website, www.wien.info/en. tel Edelweiss, a modern, four-star prop- Paris and Zürich. Mykita Shop Vienna, 1 n Leipzig Deal: The home of J.S. Bach and erty opened in the heart of town. It touts Neuer Markt 14, www.mykita.com the renowned St. Thomas Boys choir offers typical Bavarian food and elaborate well- n Third Man Echoes: For many of us, two nights with breakfast in a first-class ness facilities. A double room in sum- ringtones are a puzzling phenomenon. If hotel, a five-hour guided city tour and mer with breakfast and dinner is €178. you’re among those who “get” the sat- admissions to art museums. Prices start at (Berchtesgaden, of course, is known as a isfaction of having your mobile phone $125. www.ltm-leipzig.de favored hideaway of Adolf Hitler. That make a distinctive sound when someone n era of the region’s history is fascinatingly Great Swiss Hikes: What Switzerland calls your number, it’s our duty to report archived by Geoff Walden’s “Third Reich Tourism judges to be its country’s most that you now can download a ring- in Ruins” website at http://www. enjoyable hikes are found in a useful tone looselybased on the “Harry Lime thirdreichruins.com/bgaden.htm.) section at www.myswitzerland.com. Theme” (from the 1949 movie The Third There you’ll find a description of 32 hikes n Expensive Shades: Buy the sunglasses Man) at www.wien.info/en. Sadly and and, for each, a short video dubbed in worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in the Sex inexplicably, the theme’s haunting zither English, and basic information such as and the City movies at the Mykita Shop is forgotten in this 21st century version. degree of difficulty, suggested fitness Vienna. Her golden reflective cheaters n Vienna Hotel Deal: “Viennese joie level, distance, approximate hiking time, are called “Franz 24k,” (as in 24-karat de vivre” is the title of a package that location of starting and ending points, gold) after the great Austrian downhill includes three nights in a four-star hotel and directions to the starting point. skier Franz Klammer. They are the cre-

Gemütlichkeit 11 August 2010 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com European Gas Prices We Recommend Per Gallon Regular Unleaded, Aug. 1, 2010 This listing of good value, mid-priced hotels in popular desti- nation cities is intended for fast reference. Additional hotels and links to hotel websites is in the “Hotels” pages at www. Austria $5.80 Netherlands $7.38 gemut.com. Hotels are arranged in price order, higher to lower. Belgium $6.74 Norway $5.56 Berlin Hotel Art Nouveau, Leibnizstr. 59, tel. +49/030/327 7440, Czech Rep. $5.66 Portugal $6.50 [email protected], www.hotelartnouveau.de Denmark $6.35 Slovakia $5.66 Hotel Domus, Uhlandstrasse 49, Germany D-10719, tel. +49/030/882041, fax 882 0410, [email protected] France $6.40 Slovenia $5.66 Bern Hotel Bristol, Schauplatzgasse 10, CH-3011, tel. +41/31/311 Germany $6.72 Spain $4.92 0101, fax 311 9479, email [email protected] Hotel Kreuz, Zeughausgasse 41, CH-3000, tel. +41/031/329 Hungary $6.20 Sweden $5.71 9595, fax 329 95 96, [email protected] Italy $6.59 Switzerland $5.81 Lucerne Hotel Wilden Mann, Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-6000 Luzern, tel. Luxembourg $5.61 U.K. $6.10 +41/041/2101666, fax 2101629, [email protected] Hotel Cascada, Bundesplatz 18, CH-6003 Lucerne, tel: +41/041/226 80 88, fax 226 80 00, [email protected] The Eurail Select Saver Pass for five Munich News/Deals Hotel Exquisit, Pettenkoferstr. 3, tel. +49/089/ 551 99 0, fax Continued from page 11 countries is sold only in first-class and 551 99 499, [email protected]. for 10 days travel costs $1262 for two. Hotel Acanthus, An Der Hauptfeuerwache 14, D-80331 n Hot Dates Germany: The fields Add $300 for taxis and local transport to München, tel. +49/089 / 23 18 80, e-mail: [email protected] around Weimar produce great onions, Hotel Kraft, Schillerstr. 49, tel. +49/089/594823-24, fax 550 and its annual Onion Market features get a rail total for this itinerary of $1562. 3856, [email protected] Rothenburg ob der Tauber an “Onion Queen,” 550 market stalls, In making the transport decision Reichs-Küchenmeister, Kirchplatz 8, Rothenburg o.d. and an estimated 350,000 visitors. It’s on this itinerary, rail devotees will cite Tauber, Germany D-91541, tel. +49/09861/97 00, fax 97 04 Thuringa’s biggest festival. October 8-10. the stress of driving 2,500 miles, while 09, [email protected] Hotel Hornburg, Hornburgweg 28, D-91541, tel. www.weimar.de rental car advocates will point to the +049/09861/8480, fax 5570, [email protected], freedom and flexibility of auto travel. www.hotelhornburg.de One of the world’s great maritime Salzburg & Environs exhibitions is Hamburg’s International Both will be right. Schloss Haunsperg , A-5411 Oberalm bei Hallein, Ham- Boat Show, Hanseboot. This year’s event Generally speaking, trips that in- merstrasse 32, tel. +43/06245/80662, fax 85680, info@ schlosshaunsperg.com is the 51st and takes place October 30- clude only major cities are least expen- Hotel Struber, Nonntaler Hauptstrasse 35, Austria A-5020 tel. November 7. www.hamburg-messe.de sively done by rail, especially if the train +43/0662/843 728, fax 843 728 8, [email protected] Hotel Jedermann, Rupertgasse 25, Austria A-5020, tel. The annual Frankfurt Book Fare at- travel is in second-class. On the other +43/0662/873241-0, [email protected] tracts 300,000 visitors, 10,000 journalists, hand, trips exclusively in the country- Vienna and more than 7,000 exhibitors from 100 side are best done, both logistically and Hotel Römischer Kaiser, Annagasse 16, A-1010, tel +43/01/512 77 51 0, [email protected]. countries. It’s said to be the most impor- financially, by rental car. The less certain Altstadt Vienna, Kirchengasse 41, tel. +43/01/526 3399-0, tant event of its kind in the world. Octo- gray areas are itineraries that combine fax 523 4901, [email protected], www.altstadt.at ber 6-10. www.frankfurt-book-fair.com both urban and country travel. Pension Aviano, Marco-D’Aviano-Gasse 1, tel. +43/01/512 8330, fax 512 8330 6, [email protected] Spectacularly-lit buildings, colored Of course, the equation changes Zürich Hotel Florhof, Florhofgasse 4, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. laser illuminations and glorious spec- dramatically when there are more than 41/01/261 4470, fax 261 4611, [email protected] tacular fireworks finale are featured two persons traveling together. The Hotel Arlette, Stampfenbachstrasse 26, Switzerland CH- during Berlin’s annual Festival of Lights. step up to an intermediate size car that 8001, tel. +41/01/25 20 032, fax 25 20 932, hotel.arlette@ bluwin.ch The city’s great landmarks shimmer and can accommodate four persons adds Frankfurt Airport shine October 13-24. www.berlin.de only about $6 per day to the cost of Steigenberger Esprix Hotel Frankfurt Airport, Cargo City Süd, D-60549 , tel. +49/069/69 70 99, fax 69 70 94 44, the rental. The increase in the cost of [email protected] dear subscriber fuel—gas or diesel—in an intermediate Hotel Birkenhof, von-Eiff-Str 37, Hanau-Steinheim, D-63456, Continued from page 2 car over a compact, is about six-percent. tel. +49/06181/648 80, fax 64 88 39, info@HotelBirkenhof. de, www.hotelbirkenhof.de (25-minuted from airport) Rome-Vienna-Munich, 21 days. This is a But while the cost of a rental car is the Hotel Dreieich, Frankfurter Str. 49, Langen , D-63225, tel. scaled down “grand tour” itinerary that same whether there are two or four +49/06103/91 50, fax 52 030. [email protected] passengers, rail travel is based on per Munich Airport mixes major destination cities with stops Daniel’s Hotel, Haupstrasse 11, Halbergmoos-Goldach, D- also in smaller towns. person rates. Thus if all four travel- 85399, tel. +49/0811/55120, fax 551213, info@hotel-daniels. ers are adults, the cost of rail travel de, www.hotel-daniels.de The price to rent a compact car doubles while the cost of auto travel Hotel Hoyacker Hof, Freisinger Landstrasse 9a, D-85748 drops to $28.60 or $601 for the 21 days. Garching b. München, tel. +49/089/326 9900, fax 320 7243, rises marginally. Even if two of the four [email protected] We estimate total miles at 2,500 with are children, the cost of train travel will Zürich Airport gas costs at $450, diesel at $322, and increase by 50-percent. Mövenpick Zürich Airport, Walter-Mittelholzerstrasse 8, parking at $300. Total auto travel then CH-8152 Glattbrugg, tel. +41/01/808 88 88, fax 808 88 77, In the final analysis, for most of us, it [email protected] pencils out to $1351 with a gas-pow- Hotel Fly Away, Marktgasse 19, Zürich-Kloten, CH-8302, tel. ered car and $1223 with diesel. comes down to personal preference.—RHB +41/01/804 4455, [email protected]

Gemütlichkeit 12 August 2010