FRIENDS• of the San Juans •

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Special Edition | Farming in the San Juans

Spring 2007 From the What is Sustainable Farming? Director... by Katie Hover, Lacrover Farm There has been a lot of buzz lately sustainability, he has set up the fences Farm to Plate…Healthy Local around the word “sustainable” – and other infrastructure on his farm to Food in San Juan County sustainable housing, sustainable living, make handling his cattle less physically and sustainable farming. So what demanding. We are devoting our spring newsletter does it mean to be sustainable? We to farming in San Juan County. In can easily say what sustainable is not: There is also a community model of this issue you will meet some family it doesn’t mean fast; it doesn’t mean sustainability. As noted in Cornell farmers, and read about agriculture cheap, and it doesn’t mean easy. University Primer on Community Food Systems: “Reaching toward the practices, education programs, efforts The Community of Family Farms goal of sustainable agriculture is the to protect farmland, and outlets to buy defines sustainable farming as responsibility of all participants in the island-grown food. Supporting local “an agriculture whose methods do system, including farmers, laborers, farmers can solve some of our biggest not deplete soil, water, air, wildlife, policy makers, researchers, retailers and environmental challenges like reducing or human community resources”. consumers.” There are farmers who argue that fuel use, pesticide consumption, and We all play an important part in a maintaining our rural land use pattern. sustainability means excluding all off- farm inputs, such as fertilizer and feed. sustainable food system. For example, Agriculture dramatically shapes the sustainable farmers need customers Scott Meyers of Sweet Grass Farm environment. The fate of the Puget for their products, outlets need to be believes that there is also a personal created for customers to easily find Sound/Georgia Basin region and component to sustainability that locally grown food and regulations the survival of many endangered needs to be considered. “How long regarding land use and water quality species largely depend upon farmers, will the farmer be able to do the type need to be enforced. Sustainable ranchers and private forest owners; of physical work that is required farming is truly a community-based these same landowners also serve as to run the farm?” To help his own effort to benefit the whole environment. the frontline against sprawl. Through good stewardship practices, San Juan County’s farmers produce a bounty of healthy food - as well as clean air, clean water and habitat for fish and wildlife. The local food movement in San Juan County is alive and thriving. But, farm and food production policies could do much more to meet the needs of farmers, consumers and our community. Unless we provide farmers and landowners with adequate tools and incentives, many of the photo by Mark Gardner biggest environmental challenges will not be met. That’s why FRIENDS is FRIENDS of the San Juans working with farmers to develop new P.O. Box 1344, Friday Harbor, WA 98250 • 360-378-2319 www.sanjuans.org approaches that meet the needs of OUR MISSION - To protect the land, water, sea and livability of the through science, education, law and citizen action. agriculture without compromising the BOARD OF DIRECTORS - San Juan - Ralph Hahn, John Marx, Mark Gardner & Larry Marx, environment. Orcas - Roger Collier, Irmgard Conley, Tom Owens, Patti Pirnack-Hamilton, Farouk Seif & Janet Alderton, Enjoy the Spring and Summer Harvest. Shaw - Lynn Bahrych, Jon Christoffersen & Fred Ellis,Lopez - San Olson & George Lawson STAFF - Executive Director - Stephanie Buffum Field ([email protected]) Science Director - Tina Whitman ([email protected]) Development Director - Shannon Davis ([email protected]) Office Manager - Jana Marks ([email protected]) Staff Attorney - Amy Trainer ([email protected]) Newsletter design by Tif & Gif Creative • Cover photo by Mark Gardner Stephanie Buffum Field Printed on recycled paper

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Our Community Food System: Farming in the San Juan Islands by Katie Hover, Lacrover Farm

It’s a great time to be a farmer in the find ways to keep farming viable in the lamb, and pigs for pork. Our decision San Juan Islands. More residents are islands. All these groups know that you to move to came aware of the importance of buying can’t have farming in San Juan County after an exhaustive search, yet was locally grown food products, especially without farmers. immediate: we found the perfect piece vegetables, fruits, and meats. Seasonal of property, we found a supportive Agriculture is part of the history of the and year-round residents have learned farming community that we could San Juan Islands. Many of the multi- that produce picked at the height of learn from; and, over time, we found generational families who live here have ripeness tastes better and has superior an enthusiastic and caring customer been farming in the islands for over a nutritional value. Those who are base. We can’t imagine doing this century. The rural character of these concerned with global warming and anywhere else. our dependence on fossil fuel, know islands - the open spaces, the wide that food grown in your own back vistas - depends on agriculture. Over Our passion for farming is shared yard, or within a 50 or even 100 mile twelve thousand acres throughout the by most farmers here. In 2006, the radius, reduces transportation and county are designated Open Space/ Agricultural Resources Committee energy costs. Supporting local farmers Agriculture by the San Juan County surveyed the approximately 200 county strengthens the local economy. And, Assessors office. Agriculture is an residents engaged in agriculture. given our dependence on the ferry important aspect of island life. When asked why they farm, these farmers and food producers were system, local agriculture provides food My husband I are farmers on San Juan passionate in their answers. They love security for our community. Island. We have a diversified, certified and enjoy their work. They desire to organic, 30-acre farm where we grow Farmers in the islands enjoy more feed themselves and provide healthy fruits and vegetables, raise chickens than just the support of their happy food for others in the community. customers. The San Juan County for meat and for eggs, raise sheep for Agricultural Resources Committee (ARC) is an advisory body working with policy makers and farmers to address ag-related issues such as regulations, marketing, and farmland preservation. State University Extension - San Juan County provides information and educational opportunities to island farmers & gardeners. There are movements to create more year-round outlets for locally grown food and more restaurants are featuring locally grown meats and produce. There are also local organizations - the San Juan County Land Bank, the San Juan County Conservation District, the San Juan Preservation Trust, and the Friends of the San Juans - who are working not only to preserve farmland but also to Paul Lacrampe tends to the chickens at Lacrover Farm. Photo by Bill Pawek

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And they generally agree that they Horse Drawn Produce as Kathryn noted “I don’t sit well.” farm, “Because I like it and want to Having livestock included in their preserve the land.” farming operation has helped their The farm owned by Ken Akopiantz sustainability, as everything they need This is true for all the farmers that I and Kathryn Thomas is, to me, the to build their soil for growing their spoke with in writing this article. I epitome of what a working farm should vegetables comes from their animals. wanted to find out what the farmers look like. There are large, functional thought about their own farming Ken and Kathryn sell their produce outbuildings: a three-sided building and meat (lamb and pork) to residents operation: the challenges, the risks, where they sell their produce and meat; the joys, and the successes. There and visitors all over Lopez Island a beautiful, sturdy, multi-use barn with through the Farmers Market, their are a few threads that run through a hay loft; a Quonset hut used to raise my interviews with our local farmers. farm stand, and at Blossom Organic their pigs; and a milking room that is Grocery, in Lopez Village. They also First of all, there is a huge satisfaction also used for intern housing. When in knowing your customers, seeing the sell to restaurants on Lopez and Orcas I was there on a Monday morning, Islands. They believe that there is a people who are buying your products, there were chickens gently clucking as and getting face-to-face feedback huge market available to local farmers. they grazed around the farm, gentle They also believe that by having a (with most of it being really good). mooing from the cows in the barn, Secondly, everyone is trying to be variety of different products for sale, and pigs outside digging in the dirt. more people are willing to come to more sustainable, requiring less off Because of all these animals, there was farm inputs, and making the land and their farm. “Having the meat and eggs a large furlough of composting grass, encourages one-stop shopping – the environment better than when they straw, and animal wastes, ready to be found it. people are already coming to the farm, applied to the garden where Ken will and now they can pick up all they need The following are snapshots of a few be planting. for the evening meal,” explains Ken. farms and farmers involved in our The farm on Port Stanley Road is Sweet Grass Farm community food system. There is not protected by a San Juan Preservation enough space to do justice to all of the Trust conservation easement. Ken and Lopez Island incredible people helping to bring local Kathryn have a diversified farm and, farming to our plates. Sweet Grass Farm is also on Port as such, lead extremely full lives. But Stanley Road on property protected by a San Juan Preservation Trust easement. But if Ken and Kathryn are produce farmers, Scott Meyers is a grass farmer. Seeing Sweet Grass Farm from the road is a visual delight. The dark brown cows, all Waygu beef cattle, contrast deeply with the bright green grassy fields. Scott and his wife Brigit own 80 acres and lease the adjacent 120 acres. They have developed the entire swath into fields of emerald green. Scott has worked hard to get the fields to look this way, using neither irrigation nor fertilizer. Using Managed Intensive Grazing, a method of pasture management, the

Ken Akopiantz washes vegetables from his farm, Horse Drawn Produce. Photo by Debby Hatch

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Waygu cattle are allowed to eat the grass in paddocks, or small areas, for a short time before being rotated to another paddock. This type of grazing allows the pasture to rest and re-grow, utilizing the nutrients from the livestock. Over time, the grass becomes much more lush and nutritious with greater variety, creating a better food source for the animal. It’s the cows that do all the work, turning up the soil with their hooves and fertilizing with their manure. It is Scott’s job to know when it’s time to move them to the next paddock. Using Managed Intensive Grazing techniques allows them to reduce the use of hay in the winter, which is better for the cattle and the environment. Scott and Brigit are also working with Brigit Meyers, of Sweet Grass Farms, with “Chocolate,” one of their Waygu cattle. Photo by Scott Meyer Ducks Unlimited to create bird habitat in the wetland area with “pondlets.” The Orcas Farmers Market As Scott explains, “Improving the land and adding wildlife habitat improves A local food success story... To hear large variety of produce at the Farmers’ the health and vitality of the whole Julie Miller, Manager for the Orcas Market. Soon after, Morningstar Farm system.” Island Farmers Market, tell it, the joined the market followed by Rhonda story of the growth of market in the Barbieri. Suddenly there was an Farmers have historically used animals last five years is the most exciting abundance of varieties, selection and as instruments to develop pasture thing that ever happened. Julie is quantity. Many of the farmers made and as a way to provide nutrients for an amazingly energetic woman: a it a point to bring more to the market, the soil. Horses, cattle, and sheep person passionate about local food, either by doubling farm capacity or can help with a farming operation by farmers, and the community. leasing land to grow more. keeping the grass down. Some local When Julie started managing the Farmers also started to bring more farmers, like Ken Akopiantz, use market back in 2001, there were than just fruits and vegetables – there livestock to take the place of tractor only four farmers participating. were flowers (edible ones too, thanks work. Utilizing livestock in a farming Although farmers started the market to George Orser), eggs, and value operation harkens back to the days of 36 years ago, it was known more for added products. As Julie puts it, “there the traditional “family farm.” crafts than food. The farmers who was an explosion of taste, color and were there - Brenda Harlow, George variety.” And the best part was that Heritage Farm Orser, and Rena Patty - were doing all of these products were being sold! a brisk business, but locally grown In addition to selling at the Farmers San Juan Island produce was not the focus. Julie then Markets, the farmers encouraged Sidney Coffelt, of Coffelts Jim Sesby and Christina Dahl- also started subscription services and Farm, to start selling their lamb cuts marketed to local restaurants. Julie Sesby have farmed 39 acres of land at the market. Sidney also started believes that because the Farmers since 1999. Their property has a bringing sheep skins and wool-filled Market is so successful, and because conservation easement owned by the comforters. Now there were meat and so many restaurants are featuring local San Juan County Land Bank. farm products, in addition to crafts and foods, there is a growing awareness of produce. the economic importance of farming, Their philosophy was to make a self- and preservation of farm land, in the sufficient family farm. Yet, they also In 2002 John Steward of Maple Rock Farm started farming on Orcas Island islands. thought it was important to provide and immediately started selling a more than what they needed for their

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family. An example is their WSDA Washington State University licensed raw-milk dairy. They decided to get a cow since they enjoy delicious, Extension San Juan County nutritious unpasturized milk. But as Jim notes, “you need to milk every day by Candice Jagel, Agriculture Education Coordinator WSU Extension regardless of the number of cows,” so they bought a couple of cows and went How can I start an organic seed WSU Extension organizes educational through the substantial expense and business? Can I use manure as opportunities such as Backyard fertilizer safely? Where can a farmer Barnyard, the ag business planning paperwork requirements to be able to find affordable liability insurance? course Cultivating Success, Livestock sell their milk legally. This philosophy What varieties of apples grow best Advisor training, and Master Goat also worked with their decision to sell here? Can goats or sheep control Farmer training (contact them about pasture-raised chickens: they raised noxious weeds? These are just a this November 2007 class!). The chickens for meat before, so why not few of the ag-related questions that Ag Education Coordinator, Candace do the same here and raise some for the WSU Extension office in San Jagel, sends out regular Ag Events their friends? Now pasture-raised Juan County has fielded recently. Notices and collaborates to produce chicken is an important part of their WSU Extension has been providing the county’s three farm products business. Plus, raising chickens on guides. WSU Extension also directly practical, research-based information grass provides benefits to soil which to agricultural producers in the supports the work of the Agricultural improves the quality of their pasture. County since 1919. Resources Committee (ARC) through membership, subcommittee work, and Jim and Christina also believe In the waning days of the dairy research. industry here, for example, WSU strongly in educating people about Extension helped local producers With its long history of supporting the importance of locally grown food identify new breeds of cattle for beef agriculture in San Juan County, WSU and knowing where food comes from. production. More recently, WSU Extension is also looking ahead to To that end, they conduct farm tours Extension helped develop the Mobile the future, working with farmers to of their farm, located off of Cattle Meat Processing Unit, which allows be more profitable in a changing Point Road. It is a very “hands on” producers to access wider markets economy, educating our youth about tour, with opportunities to collect with a USDA-inspected product. farming through the 4-H program, eggs, watch a cow being milked, and and fostering sustainable agriculture feed a calf a bottle of milk. The tour and a strong local food system Artichokes grow along the shoreline at ends with a horse-drawn wagon ride Nootka Rose Farm on . on the farm. All the way, Jim and Photo by Katie Hover Christina are able to provide some education about the importance of having livestock live on grass and the improved taste and nutritional value of eggs that come from pasture- raised hens. As Christina notes, “we want people to come away with the realization that there are many ways to farm and the importance of knowing your local farmer.” Our Lady of the Rock

Innovation is an important part of the work done at Our Lady of the Rock, a Benedictine monastery located on Shaw Island. Through their call to a monastic life, the endeavor to

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items such as cigarettes and candy, Agricultural why can’t people have the choice to drink raw milk?” Although the Resources regulations can be a bit onerous, providing fresh, unpasturized milk is Committee an important part of the mission of Our Lady of the Rock. by Eliza Buck, ARC Coordinator The Bullock Brothers In 2005, the Board of County Commissioners established an Permaculture Farm Agricultural Resources Committee Freckles the Sheep, Lacrover Farms. Orcas Island (ARC). The ARC’s mission is to advocate Photo by Bill Pawek for the protection and restoration of Throughout these islands, there are agricultural resources in San Juan very interesting people doing very County. Current priorities include... balance prayer, work and study. They interesting things with regard to - Farm Marketing: Create new markets do this in addition to operating one sustainability. One great example and develop existing markets for San of the first WSDA licensed raw milk is the Bullock Brothers – Samuel, Juan Islands’ agricultural products. dairies in Washington. Douglas and Joseph – who are - Farmland Preservation: Identify The Benedictine Order puts great world-renowned instructors of and promote ways of retaining and emphasis on stewardship of land and permaculture, a design system increasing farmlands in the island. for creating sustainable human animals, as well as being as self- - Farm Regulation: Make specific sufficient as possible. Therefore, in environments. The Bullock legislative recommendations to County 1977, when Mother Therese came to Permaculture Homestead is a Council on laws that impact farmers. Shaw Island, she found herself with learning center and a mecca for productive and sustainable living Goals for 2007 include working two Jersey cows within a month. By with County agencies to streamline through the integration of ecology, 1981, they had created a certified regulations and fees placed on dairy and have supplied milk to landscape, organic gardening, farm stands and farm stores; residents of Shaw Island ever since. architecture, agroforestry, green or assisting the County Critical Areas The eight nuns living in communion ecological economies, and social Ordinance Review Committee with also raise rare-breed livestock, systems. the development of realistic goals for including Highland cattle and black protecting wetlands on lands zoned The homestead, which functions as “agricultural”; working toward a Cotswold sheep. They sustain the their residence, farm, nursery and permanent farmer’s market on San monastery’s substantial forest lands; laboratory, has a mixture of soil types, Juan Island; creating an agricultural spin, dye and weave the wool from elevations, and ecosystems. A large information sharing system on the ARC their flock; foster a large group of feature of their property is a marsh, website; and increasing awareness and kids involved in raising llamas and which attracts a variety of wildlife. support for agriculture in the islands. alpacas for 4-H; and make herbal Cleared brush and tree trimmings “The ARC is a very diverse group products for sale. were used as a windbreak and shelter that can examine ideas from multiple Despite this seemingly heavenly for birds. Sam pointed out co- points of view, making things as viable as possible for all parties involved. lifestyle, the nuns have very real plants and pioneers species, which The reason I am involved is because I fix nitrogen in the soil before the earthly tasks such as running a believe that Island Agriculture needs dairy within the regulations of desired plant is put in. On their land, more diverse market options for it the Washington Department of it appeared as though everything was to survive and to grow.” – Madden Agriculture. Once in awhile the placed in relationship to everything Surbaugh, Chef and ARC member. else around it. Because of the idea is floated that, because raw milk The nineteen-member committee meets is potentially dangerous, it should permaculture ethic, there wasn’t a monthly and welcomes the public to no longer be allowed. But Mother sense of gardening as a fight against attend. Visit www.sjcarc.org for more Therese asks, “If people have the nature, but rather a belief in the order information. choice to buy what’s at the grocery of the natural world. store, including proven unhealthy 6 island farming

an incredible amount of produce on a variety of farms scattered around Waldron Island. The Bensels and the Thorsons have been farming on their own land for over forty years; Rebecca Moore and her partner Carla Larmore have been farming since 1999 on leased land owned by the Ragen family. The excellence and productivity of their farms is due to a variety of factors, including a lot of hard work, years of experience, and the necessity of making a living on an island that doesn’t have a wide selection of industries to choose from. As Margaret notes, “If we want to stay here, we need to find something to do that makes money.” Living on Waldron, which has no electricity or ferry service, provides other challenges as well. But the farmers on Waldron believe that this lack of “modern Blue Moon Produce at the San Juan Island Farmer’s Market. Photo by Mark Gardner day conveniences” helps them be productive. “We aren’t so pulled by a S&S Homestead Farm vehicle for education in the principles variety of things to do; it’s much easier Lopez and practices of sustainability and self- to focus on farming,” was how Steve reliance. S & S Homestead provides Bensel put it. Theirs is not a life for Another very important name in food for the community through a everyone, but for those of us who enjoy sustainability is Henning Sehmsdorf farm stand and Community Supported the produce from Waldron Island and S & S Homestead Farm. Henning Agriculture. Close interaction with farmers, we are thankful that they are owns the farm with his wife, Elizabeth local residents, farm tours, and here. Simpson. Together they have created demonstrations are a regular part of Thirsty Goose Farm not only a well-run, economically their work. San Juan viable sustainable farm, they have Nootka Rose Farm, also created an important classroom Since 1974, Jim and Lisa Lawrence environment for Washington State Thousand Flower have been farming on a beautiful University’s Center for Sustaining Farm, Blue Moon piece of property tucked away near Agriculture and for the Lopez Island the middle of San Juan Island. It School District. Produce, Waldron was Lisa, as our real estate agent, and From the start, the farm has been Come to the San Juan Island Farmers’ Jim, the farmer, who said “we need managed according to the principles of Market in July and you will notice a more farmers in our community,” that ecological agriculture as articulated by bountiful display of vegetables and helped us decide to move to San Juan Rudolph Steiner, integrating animal flowers at three booths close together. Island. Jim wants farmers to succeed and plant production to build a self- This would be Steve and Linnea here. He has been actively working reliant, biologically, and culturally Bensel of Nootka Rose Farm, Joel and toward that goal as a member of the sustainable ecosystem. Henning Margaret Thorson of Thousand Flower Agricultural Resources Committee believes that a small, integrated farm Farm and Rebecca Moore from Blue (ARC). Lisa is president of the board can be an exceptionally effective Moon Produce. All of them grow of the San Juan County Land Bank,

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and her family has been fishing and farming in the islands Opportunities for our Future for generations. There are so many incredible opportunities for farmers on The overriding philosophy of Thirsty Goose Farm has the San Juan Islands, but there are also some very important been “to make money by raising healthy, sane food.” It challenges. These challenges mirror those happening on was Jim and Lisa’s income from fishing that “grew” the a national level. The average age of the farmer is quickly first greenhouse, where Jim began growing tomatoes. That rising – my husband and I are in our mid-40’s, yet are became profitable enough to allow him to build a second considered some of the “younger” farmers around. There greenhouse. The increased profits allowed for a barn, which is a desire to attract younger people to the islands to farm, became his entry into raising sheep. but land prices are high. There is an opportunity for In asking why he farms, Jim answered beautifully. “It’s preservation organizations, like the Land Bank and the the aesthetic, the romantic, the beauty, the joy of working Preservation Trust, to lease their land, but the long-term the land and producing food that is important.” Jim has lease agreements are complicated. seen many changes in sustainable farming on these islands None of these challenges are insurmountable and island since moving here. He is excited by the extensive farmer farmers are working together, and with the community, on involvement in the political process as evidenced by the solutions. Farming has been, and will continue to be, an formation of the ARC. extremely important component of our island life.

What You Can Do…

• Support your local farmers! • Choose a diet rich in locally grown foods. • Eat less processed food and enjoy better health. • Educate your neighbors and friends about the benefits in taste and nutrition with local food; have them over for a meal made with local food. • Visit Local Farms. It’s a great way to find the freshest products available and see a working farm. • Buy a share in a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA). • Get on a farm email list so you know what’s fresh weekly. • Request that your local grocery store, school, and senior center carry more local produce. • Shop at stores that sell local produce. • Go to the Farmers Market on your island. • Ask where items on a restaurant menu come from and express an interest in eating locally. Better yet, support restaurants that you know buy local food. • Get involved in a food gardening project at school or senior center; if there isn’t one, start it. • Participate in a community garden or start a home vegetable garden. Share the excess with neighbors, a community kitchen or food bank.

Ripe tomatos from Thirsty Goose Farm. Photo by Mark Gardner

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Farm to School Programs in the Islands by Katie Hover, Lacrover Farm Students at Lopez Island School participate in growing and cooking their own food. Photos from the LIFE Program Farm-to-school programs are a great way to educate and involve children in learning where their food comes from. There are a variety of programs, ranging from small to through site visits. All of this is designed to strengthen large throughout the county. children’s understanding of where food comes from. Friday Harbor Elementary School has a small garden plot Rhea Miller, former San Juan County Commissioner and and some dedicated WSU Master Gardener volunteers current director of LIFE, is passionate about the program who work with the children, weeding, planting and because, as she puts it, “Food is the largest issue in our harvesting their produce. Orcas Island has a larger farm- future.” Not only has our health been compromised due to-school program that involves the entire school and some to our heavily processed diets, but with the demise of of the local farmers including John Steward of Maple Rock fossil fuel, it will become imperative to be able to grow our Farm, Mimi Anderson at Morning Star Farm, and Vern own food as we will no longer have the energy-dependent and Sidney Coffelt from Coffelts Farm. The children meet supply chain. the farmers who grow their food through school visits and Generally speaking, kids learn eating habits from their field trips. parents. But they do change their behavior regarding The largest and most sophisticated farm-to-school model food when they learn to grow and cook it. That is why, in San Juan County is LIFE – Lopez Island Farm Education in the Lopez School, the portable kitchen and the gardens Program. There is a large garden at the school that is are such an important part of the curriculum. Rhea tells part of the K – 5 curriculums. S & S Homestead Farm is stories of elementary kids asking their parents to buy the instructional site for Lopez Island middle and high- vegetables, preferably those from the local farms they school students. LIFE hopes to establish a sustainable, on have visited. Because the kids are completely involved campus “garden-to-cafeteria” program integrated in the K- with all aspects of their school lunch, they are excited 12 curriculum and create a partnership with local farmers about eating their fruits and vegetables.

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Cooking with Local Foods by Katie Hover, Lacrover Farm

Madden Surbaugh, owner/chef at Steps Wine Bar and Two other local chefs from San Juan Island who have been Café on San Juan Island, is passionate about cooking with using locally grown food for years are Tim Barrette and local foods. “I cook with local foods because the taste Laurie Paul at Market Chef. Like Madden, they appreciate is far superior. The freshness of the produce and meats the seasonality of using local food and are inspired by what’s means that it lasts longer. Because my dishes focus on a available during the season. With the increasing number of particular ingredient, it is particularly important to have farmers, there is more variety over a longer period of time. that ingredient be the best. The food from the farmers Also, thanks to the Islands Grown Farmers Cooperative on these islands is incredible.” Madden, a member of the and their mobile USDA certified slaughter unit, fresh grass- Agriculture Resources Committee, has created relationships fed lamb and beef is more readily available. with the farmers by seeing what they have. One of his Both Madden and Tim also believe in supporting major suppliers is Nick and Sarah Jones from Jones Family local farmers. Madden states, “I feel so much better Farms. “I was at the farm where they raise cattle and the knowing that my food dollars are going to someone in my pastured pigs and told them that I want their pork.” It is community, rather than being sent to a large corporation now one of the more popular items on the menu. like Sysco. That is very important to me.”

Madden’s Recipe for Broccoli Soup

2 Lbs. Locally Grown Fresh Broccoli 3 ea Sweet Onions Diced 6 ea Garlic Cloves Minced 1 Tbsp Yellow Mustard Seeds ½ Gallon Whole Milk 4 tbsp butter 2 ea fresh lemons Sea Salt & Fresh Ground Black Pepper

In large soup pot heat 4 tbsp Butter till just starts to froth. Add Mustard seeds stir quickly. Add Garlic & Onion cooking until garlic smell is strong (3-4 minutes). Add Broccoli & Milk. Bring to light simmer and cook until broccoli is tender. Using blender puree soup until smooth (do this in small batches so hot soup does not splatter everywhere). Hint: for brighter green soup, add a few fresh spinach leaves to blender while soup is pureeing. Season soup with sea salt, fresh ground black pepper & fresh lemon juice. Garnish with a little Extra Virgin Olive Oil & Dallop of Crème Fraiche or Sour Cream. Enjoy!

Broccoli Soup from Steps Wine Bar & Cafe. Photo by Tawm Perkowski 10 island farming

Farm Land Conservation by Katie Hover, Lacrover Farm

County-wide, there is growing awareness of the need to conserve farm land. We are fortunate to have multiple organizations in San Juan County working to do this. The San Juan County Land Bank was first voted into being in 1990 with a mandate “to preserve in perpetuity areas in the county that have environmental, agricultural, aesthetic, cultural, scientific, historic, scenic or low-intensity recreational value and to protect existing and future sources of potable water.” The primary source of funding is a one percent real estate excise tax paid by purchasers of property in San Juan County. During the past 18 years, the Land Bank has purchased conservation easements on 1,082 agriculture acres. Christina Dahl-Sesby works the fields at Heritage Farm, which is protected by a San Juan County Land The properties that the Land Bank Bank conservation easement. Photo by South Bay Photography has targeted for preservation this year are important and include the 195 Another entity actively involved integrity on these lands is currently acre Coffelts Farm on Orcas Island, a in the preservation of farm land is being investigated. variety of farms in the fertile Central the San Juan Preservation Trust, FRIENDS, as well, is actively pursuing Valley area of Lopez Island, and 155 a private, non-profit conservation the goals of farmland protection, by acres in San Juan Valley on San Juan organization. The mission of the San providing land use expertise to farmers, Island. Juan Preservation Trust is “to preserve supporting various initiatives and and protect open spaces, scenic views, Lincoln Borman, Director of the Land through education about the importance forests, agricultural lands, habitats, Bank, understands the importance of of locally grown foods. When asked watersheds, riparian corridors, not only protecting farm land, but also about the value of agricultural land to wetlands and shorelines in the San Juan making it productive. As the bumper the islands, Stephanie Buffum Field, Archipelago.” sticker says, “It isn’t farm land without Executive Director for FRIENDS farmers.” Farm properties that are The Preservation Trust has protected remarked, “By protecting farmland we protected by easements need to have approximately 2500 acres of farmland are protecting our homes and habitats. a Farm Resource Management plan via Conservation Easements. Tim Healthy locally produced food is in the created in conjunction with the San Seifert, Executive Director, realizes interest of all our residents. Today over Juan County Conservation District. that the oversight of these properties is fifty percent of all parcels in the islands These ensure that best practices are an issue. He notes, “the Preservation have been developed. Where and how used with regard to water and farm Trust is best at protecting the land, but we develop the next fifty percent of wastes. They are also looking at we need to start being proactive about our parcels will affect our food quality, creating a long-term lease on a 60 acre the management of our agriculture water quality, water quantity, forests, parcel on San Juan Island, to encourage properties.” Putting together a strategy farmlands, fish and wildlife, and our land management using livestock. for how to best preserve the farming sense of this place.” 11 island farming

“Farming In The San Juans” Resource List

Orcas Island San Juan County Agricultural Resources Farms Listed Committee Bullock Brothers Permaculture Homestead This not a complete list of our island www.sjcarc.org www.permacultureportal.com farmers... for a more extensive listing of Eliza Buck - 378-6621 [email protected] San Juan County Farmers, Farm Product San Juan County Land Bank Guides are available from the WSU Maple Rock Farm www.co.san-juan.wa.us/land_bank Extension Office for San Juan, Orcas, and www.maplerockfarm.com 378-4402 Lopez Islands. Electronic versions are 845 Pinneo Road also online at http://sanjuan.wsu.edu/ 376-5994, [email protected] San Juan Preservation Trust agriculture/AgMarketing.html www.sjpt.org Coffelts Farm 468-3202 San Juan Island 1071 Crow Valley Road 376-4357, [email protected] Lopez Island Farm Education Program Lacrover Farm www.lopezclt.org/sard/websiteupdate.htm 935 Mitchell Bay Road Morning Star Farm Rhea Miller – 468-3654 www.LacroverFarm.com 376-5994, [email protected] 378-3515, [email protected] Orcas Island Farmers Market Orcas Farm www.orcasislandfarmersmarket.org Heritage Farm 376-3276, [email protected] 221 Heritage Farm Lane Steps Wine Bar and Café 378-2872, [email protected] Other Resources Listed www.stepswinebarandcafe.com 370-5959 Thirsty Goose Farm 531 Boyce Road Washington State University Extension Market Chef www.thirstygoose.com San Juan County 224 A Street, San Juan Island 378-5575, [email protected] sanjuan.wsu.edu 378-4546 378-4414 Shaw Island

Our Lady of the Rock Monastery Blue Moon Farm, Waldron Island. www.ourladyoftherock.com Photo by Katie Hover 468-2321 Lopez Island Horse Drawn Produce 2823 Port Stanley Road, Lopez 468-3486,[email protected] Sweet Grass Farm 866 Bakerview Road www.sgfbeef.com 468-4450, [email protected] S & S Homestead Farm 2143 Lopez Sound Rd. 468-3335, [email protected] Waldron Island Nootka Rose Farm 317-8239, [email protected] Thousand Flower Farm 472-0574, [email protected] Blue Moon Produce 317-8130, [email protected]

12 friends news

On-site Sewage Workshop for provision that prohibited more than 5,000 square feet of construction on Management Excavators a single parcel. Trendwest disagreed and sued the County. On March 2nd, In 2006, San Juan County Health and FRIENDS of the San Juans recently Superior Court Judge Alan Hancock Community Services formed a citizen partnered with the San Juan County ruled in favor of the County, upholding advisory committee made up of State- Conservation District and hosted the Hearing Examiner’s and FRIENDS’ licensed septic designers, wastewater a “Land Development Permits and interpretation. system inspectors, septic tank Practices- the good, the bad and pumpers, realtors, shellfish growers, the ugly” workshop for professional and environmental organizations to excavating, landscaping and building Tidal Energy Update develop a comprehensive management contractors. Over 70 land development On February 22, the Federal Energy plan for operation and maintenance professionals attended this unique Regulatory Commission (FERC) issued of on-site sewage systems in San Juan workshop to hear presentations on local preliminary permits to the Public Utility County. Shannon Davis represented and state environmental regulations District No. 1 of Snohomish County FRIENDS on this committee. Plan and best management practices for (SnoPUD) to study the feasibility of development was in response to a state wetlands, shorelines and stormwater. proposed tidal energy projects in Spieden requirement that the twelve Counties This successful workshop brought and San Juan Channels. FRIENDS bordering the waters of Puget Sound together local and state permitting successfully intervened in the preliminary develop and submit an On-site Sewage agencies, land use consultants and permit applications last summer. The System Management Plan to the State private contractors and will help issuance of the permit allows SnoPUD to Department of Health by July 1, 2007. all participants improve protection conduct investigations, collect data and After 12 months of work, the committee of resources. The workshop also prepare a license application. The permit has completed a draft plan which was strengthened relationships between does not grant SnoPUD the right to presented at public meetings. The county and state managers and will disturb land or install test units. SnoPUD plan is designed to provide effective improve coordination of resource must obtain all necessary federal, state management of on-site sewage disposal protection and permitting efforts in and local permits prior to conducting any systems countywide by identifying and the future. Generous funding support studies. To view the actual permits, go to correcting failing systems, eliminate was provided by the Puget Sound FRIENDS website at www.sanjuans.org. public health hazards, and maintaining Action Team and The Russell Family our pristine water quality. Copies of the Foundation. Protecting Orcas from draft plan are available by calling Health & Community Services at 378-4474 or Deer Harbor/Trendwest Vessel Impacts on the County’s web site (www.co.san- In November 2006, NOAA Fisheries juan.wa.us). Comments on the proposed Trendwest is seeking to enlarge its Deer Service released a proposed Recovery inspection requirements will be Harbor resort. Last spring, FRIENDS’ Plan for the Southern Resident Killer accepted at the Board of Health public staff attorney argued, and the Hearing Whale population. Based on comments hearing currently scheduled for June. Examiner agreed, that Trendwest’s proposal violated the interim hamlet it received, NOAA issued an Advance Notice of Proposed Rulemaking on

Over 70 attend Workshop for Excavators, Landscapers & Contractors Orca & Kayaker, by Mark Gardner

13 friends news

March 22nd to regulate vessel effects on combine biological and landowner data Imagine No Litter... Orcas. Both FRIENDS’ comment letter to improve voluntary conservation and the Federal Register Advance Notice programs. Funding for FRIENDS San Juan Island’s of Proposed Rulemaking are available at Shoreline Protection Program was www.sanjuans.org. NOAA will consider provided by the Russell Family Anti-Litter Initiative and address all substantive comments Foundation, the Charlotte Martin On San Juan Island, FRIENDS has received by June 20, 2007. Foundation, the Puget Sound Action joined with over 40 businesses and Team and the Salmon Recovery Locally, FRIENDS is working with the organizations to lend a helping hand Funding Board. Whale Museum, the Marine Resources in solving the litter problem. The San Committee, Ocean Advocates and Juan Island Anti-Litter Initiative is Orca Relief, as well as state and federal Climate Change sponsoring a new campaign to help agencies, to advocate for a County Lecture: Archaeology tackle the Island’s litter problem. It’s ordinance that would provide the Orcas called “Imagine No Litter!” and is protection from vessel effects, including of the San Juan Islands: modeled on the widely used adopt-a- noise, pollution and disturbances, this road program. Lori Stokes, co-founder summer. A Race Against Time of the Initiative, observes that our litter On Tuesday May 1, FRIENDS hosted problem belongs to all of us and it Shoreline Landowner’s Presenters, Julie Stein and Amanda won’t go away unless all of us do our Taylor of The Burke Museum and part. So, “Imagine No Litter!” and call Receive Stewardship University of Washington, in the Lori at 378-4643 or email her at lori@ rockisland.com if you are interested in Guide and Survey West Sound Community Hall, on Orcas Island. They shared the results adopting either a road or a beach area. This May, all shoreline property owners of their two years of archaeological FRIENDS will continue to collect beach will receive a copy of FRIENDS Living fieldwork conducted in the San Juan litter data through Initiative volunteers with the Shoreline Stewardship Guide Islands. During their investigations and who sign on to adopt a beach. along with a shoreline protection sampling at shell midden sites, they survey. The Shoreline Stewardship have been able to create a timeline Thanks David Guide provides information on local of prehistoric Native American ways FRIENDS Board and Staff would like shoreline habitats and resources like of life. Presenters also discussed the to thank outgoing board member, forage fish, eelgrass, kelp and salmon. nature of erosion in this area, and the David Sarver for his years of dedication There is also important information impact of erosion on archaeological and support. David’s enthusiasm for on shoreline permitting requirements, interpretations. This was the first in conservation and expertise in fiscal ways to conserve your property, and a series of Climate Change Lectures management make him a valuable a landowner resource guide. Using FRIENDS has planned; for more member of our conservation family. results from the shoreline protection information visit www.sanjuans.org. David will be participating on our board survey, FRIENDS of the San Juans, as an ex-officio member. We appreciate the San Juan Preservation Trust and your ongoing assistance David! the San Juan County Land Bank, will

living with the shoreline

 A Stewardship Guide for San Juan County Property Owners

2007 Stewardship Guide Deer Harbor Marina, by Mark Gardner David Sarver

14 please join us...

Please join Friends of the San Juans for an evening with Art Wolfe “On Puget Sound...” Slide show, talk and book signing Saturday, May 19, 2007 7:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. San Juan Island Yacht Club , Friday Harbor, San Juan Island

NON PROFIT ORG. US POSTAGE PAID FRIDAY HARBOR P.O. Box 1344, Friday Harbor, WA 98250 WA 98250 360.378.2319 • www.sanjuans.org PERMIT NO. 38

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