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ISSUE 22 - SUMMER 2001 £2.50

Never-Ending Story National Mountaineering Exhibition Climber Or Leech? The New Disease Crevasse Rescue Now Get Out Of That! Foot & Mouth After The Dust Settles BREATHABLE FABRICS ALPINE ADVENTURES TROLL BICC ’’0101

SEA CLIFF PEGS • WINTER MEET • EXPEDITIONS 2001 • RURAL DEVELOPMENT

FOREWORD... SUMMITS OF DESIRE

pparently Cerro Torre is the Marilyn Munroe mountain; that is according Ato Andy Kirkpatrick. He said so in his talk at the recent interna- tional winter climbing seminar and meet hosted by the BMC and MCofS at Glenmore Lodge. Andy was talking about desire and aiming for what seems to be the most unattainable objec- tive. After seeing all those photographs of such an attractive but inaccessible looking peak I think I understood the comparison Andy was making to the ‘goddess of glamour’. During another talk Rafael Jensen from Sweden made a very press- ing point about the need to make honest and full reports about ascents. Rafael had in mind some claims about ascents on K2 and Everest, but the point related well to Cerro Torre and the scepti- cism of Maestri’s infamous ‘compressor’ bolt route with the death of Tony Egger during the descent. Later, discussing some of the tactics Looking for Marilyn? Members of the international winter meet and seminar that was used on Patagonia’s summit of desire, an enthu- supported by UK Sport, Mountain Equipment, Karrimor, Mountain Technology, Highland siastic Leo Houlding and Stephen Koch from Council and Moray, Badenoch & Strathspey Enterprise. America considered the possibility of free climb- ing Maestri’s compressor route and removing the bolts. They joked about leaving the compressor, which still in litigation, criminal liability, and insurance could create hangs high on the wall, as a monument to Maestri’s tactics and a situation like permanent FMD restrictions (who said it high point. Now what a scheme that would be: a bold statement couldn’t get any worse?). It has been invaluable that all about ethics, truth, and respect for such an awesome peak. those volunteer supporters and access representatives have been busy pressing the case locally whenever practicable At least three other truths manifested themselves during the for the lifting of FMD access restrictions. But it is also week long international gathering. Firstly, that freedom is the important that we create awareness and understanding most important thing in life; secondly, that by being positive about the normal risks of climbing and hill walking. As the you can overcome problems and have fun; and thirdly, that climb- post FMD debate progresses on the future of agriculture ers and hill walkers enjoying their freedom is good for the moun- and the rural economy we must firmly push decision mak- tain environment and those who live and work there. After three ers to recognise the economic, educational, social, and per- days of enjoying the freedom of the Highland mountains the sonal benefits of outdoor recreation and in particular climb- Scottish Executive requested that in response to the foot and ing and hill walking. Potentially there is much to be gained, mouth disease (FMD) outbreak climbing and walking should be but there is also much that could be lost. So, to protect our suspended as a precautionary measure. Which was bad news for freedoms we will need persuasive and positive arguments our visitors from as far away as China and Iran. However, the that reflect our responsible enjoyment of the risks of par- visitors took the news well, and we all agreed about the need to ticipation, our commitment to cliff and mountain conser- respond to the crisis in the agricultural community. A new pro- vation, and our support for local communities. gramme of workshops and lectures was arranged and included an excellent review by Greig Stewart from South Africa of a project Faced with not being able to go on the hill in what can in the Drakensberg mountains that exemplified how a recrea- only be described as perfect weather and conditions the tional interest can lead to support for fragile mountain environ- international winter meet decided the mountain should ments and local communities. The Cairngorm ski area was not come to them and the ‘ice olympics’ were born. Con- included in the Scottish Executive access restriction and the Chair gratulations to all those who ‘invented’ and took part in Lift Company generously offered discount ski-ing to our the fun of friendly competition on and around the Glenmore ‘grounded’ international visitors. This was a very kind offer, but Lodge climbing towers; it was quite simply brilliant. So, a it did expose some hard to rationalise logic by the Scottish Ex- positive attitude and flexibility made the best of the FMD ecutive that downhill skiing in the Cairngorms was an acceptable situation. If you are looking for some enjoyable alterna- risk to the spread of FMD but winter climbing was not. How- tive events do not forget the National Mountaineering ever, one outcome of the FMD crisis is the much wider recogni- Exhibition opening in July at the Rheged Discovery Cen- tion that climbing and walking are by far the most significant tre near Penrith, nor the Entre-Prises & BMC Festival of contributors to the rural economy in the Highlands and many Climbing on 7 to 9 December at the NIA in Birmingham. other open countryside regions. Let’s hope by then we will have seen the end of the FMD access restrictions. Let’s also hope that any new agricul- It was planned that this issue of Summit would focus on liabil- tural policy and rural development takes full account of ity issues and the growing trend towards litigation, but because the value of and our strong desire to enjoy the freedom of of the extra reporting on the FMD crisis this subject has been climbing, hill walking and mountaineering. carried over to the next issue. However, as a preview Ian Dunn of Entre-Prises climbing walls gives a personal view on the liability ‘disease’ that could affect all our activities. The success last year of the passing of the Countryside and Rights of Way Act reduced the burden of liability on landowners. However, current trends General Secretary

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22 1

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 1 24/04/2001, 11:46 AM 28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 training opportunities formembers. and goodpracticeadviceprovides BMC publishesawiderangeofsafety their ownactionsandinvolvement. The accept theserisksandberesponsible for these activitiesshouldbeawareof and personal injuryordeath.Participants in eering areactivitieswithadangerof climbing, hillwalkingandmountain- Readers ofSummitareremindedthat RISK &RESPONSIBILITY mitted atthesender'srisk. for publication,howeverthesearesub- Every careistakenofmaterialssent address [email protected]. sent to theaboveAlex at Messenger Contributions forSummitshouldbe The primaryworkoftheBMCisto: and thefreedomtoenjoytheiractivities. climbers, hillwalkersandmountaineers The BMCpromotestheinterestsof of theBritishMountaineeringCouncil. is themembershipmagazine Summit Neither theBMCnorGreenShiresPublishingaccept Readers areadvisedtotakereasonablecarewhen Paula Taylor &LindsayCrossley responsibility forinformationsuppliedinadverts. PUBLISHED &PRINTEDBY e-mail: mem BMC, 177-179BurtonRoad, W W W W W tion formembers. Provide and excellence. programmes includingyouth Support equipment. practice, facilities,trainingand Promote mountain conservation. ments andpromotecliff Negotiate Fraser Ingham&LisaUndery GreenShires Publishing Northants,NN168UN Telford Way,Kettering elcome to Manchester M202BB Display Advertising Display Fax: 01536382501 www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 01536382500 Tel: 01536382500 Fax: 01614454500 Tel: 01614454747 22 PUBLISHING EDITORIAL responding toadverts. servicesandinforma- Gill Wootton eventsandspecialist Classified and adviseongood [email protected] accessimprove- issue 22 of

2 FEATURES REGULARS CONTENTS 22 18 14 12 10 31 8 4 37 37 37 EuropeanAlps 37 37 37 sport. A newdiseasecouldkillour breath ablefabrics. An indepthlookat neverthing you knew. Crevasse rescue-every changing views androles. Rural development; future ofthecountryside. dust settles?Alookatthe What happenswhenthe Climber orleech? Breathe easy Get outofthat Eat theview Foot &Mouth MLTB update Access news News Latest MLTBnews. Rural development. New poster, Peak railway, Exchange, BMCAGM. reminder, China BICC results,Gri Foot andMouth, Troll 8 8 8 Foot&Mouth 8 8 24/04/2001, 11:48AM Credit: Payne Cover: Un-namedtrekkingpeak, Pakistan 52 37 34 28 26 24 44 33 40 cliff pegs. Sobering thoughtsaboutsea Last thoughts first timers. Alpine Adventure-tipsfor Travel special Report ontheindoorseason. Troll BICC&BBC This year'strips. Expeditions exhibition introduced. The newmountaineering story Never-ending Winter Meet'01. Report ontheunusual Winter meet Upcoming events. Briefing Area calendarandAGM. Arena Foot andMouth. Personal perspectiveson Counting thecost. Forum 12 12 12 Eattheview 12 12 4 4 4 News 4 4 4 LETTERS

SWISS SUCCESS wards with due caution, splitting up on TRANCEIVERS Let me introduce myself first: I’m a 34 old reaching easier ground. Three of us chose a Thanks for sending me the new issue of Swiss woman working as a professional snow plod across easy ground with a shal- “Summit”. I couldn’t help noticing that in editor, author and translator specialized in low slope, diagonally upwards to the ridge. an issue that begins with a picture of Roger mountaineering. Regarding what is said in Suddenly the ground moved – a strange Payne just before being avalanched, and fin- the article in Summit 21, I can say the fol- sensation. A swimming action was a natu- ishes with an article on someone else who lowing for the German speaking countries: ral response – little awareness of what was has been avalanched, that the paragraph on Women writing about climbing are gener- happening or length of time or movement. tranceivers in the article “Avalanche!” is ally well accepted nowadays - but there are It stopped after a short time and we three hardly encouraging of their use. They are only very few who write and publish. In were OK – it must have been a relatively simple to use, and most people would value Switzerland, I’m the only woman who is shallow windslab that thankfully stopped their lives rather higher than the cost of a publishing regularly in the field of moun- in even-gentler ground just below. The to- transceiver. They are only of limited use to taineering and making a living out of it. For tal drop further down, over steeper ground climbers who are not using them when they this, though, it’s not necessary, as the re- was sobering – well over 500 ft. We get avalanched! Off-piste skiers and board- port suggests, to “climb hard” - much more grouped on a tiny ‘island’ of rock in the ers should do more than consider them - it important is the simple fact that your texts middle of the snow debris. Dave hammered is standard practice nowadays to use them should be written well! But what does a peg in and we belayed each other out of when off-piste/touring. “well” mean besides the fact a text has to be the avalanche area to safer ground. No written in a good style and with correct harm done. So the point made in the Sum- Willie Todd grammar? Personally, I’ve made the experi- mit article was right – the greatest risk is in ence that you can be extremely successful modest slopes, often preferred by BUMBLING BRITISH? writing emotionally intense texts - by “tak- hillwalkers. I am a keen ski mountaineer and I read ing advantage” of our emotional side. I get Rob Collister’s article in Summit 20 with very positive feedback after texts which are Ralph Crouch interest. However, I was surprised to see personal, honest and emotional - which has how little coverage was given to the dan- nothing to do with climbing hard. It can be THE PRICE OF GREED ger of avalanches, in contrast to specific about a hard climb, but it’s not the must. We are a commercial climbing centre, skiing techniques. Ski-mountaineering is If you want to make a living of your writ- AALA licensed and with SPA qualified nothing like skiing on piste with slightly ing, the most important thing is to find staff. We run hundreds of sponsored ab- trickier snow: it is like the difference be- your “niche”: the thing you’re fond of and seil events every year for all the major tween sailing in a reservoir and setting off you want to specialize in. However the charities at venues all over the UK. How- into the Atlantic. Lack of knowledge is eas- one thing you shouldn’t try to sell, at least ever, we do have a strict policy of run- ily the biggest killer in the mountains in the in German speaking countries, is poetry - ning them only from buildings and man winter months; most often, it is a case of no magazine will publish it! But generally made structures. We have refused in the off-piste skiers out for kicks, but it affects spoken, there is an audience for women past, on the grounds of our ethics as climb- too many ski-mountaineers as well. One of writing about mountain issues - you just ers and as representatives of our NGB, the endearing features of the British char- have to write good quality! So, I would to run them from Avon Gorge, Burrington acter is a bumbling, amateurish approach like to encourage other women to write, as Combe,Wintours Leap etc. to a new skill, but skiing across a steep, I’m convinced we have a slightly different Today I have been asked to run one from wet layer of snow on a stratum of ice is a “voice” as most men - base your texts on Malham Cove. I refused but, sadly, I bad place to learn by experience! Luckily, what you’ve experienced, or on what you know full well that the charity concerned help is at hand. All the public authorities like to do the most! will eventually find someone else who issue snow bulletins which are available by will agree, as they have in the past. They fax, internet or phone. Much of this infor- Christine Kopp will hold the same qualifications as our- mation is schematic and does not require selves and therefore should have similar knowledge of a foreign language. Don’t set IT DOES HAPPEN ethics. The only way to stop these un- off in the Alps without them! I found the Avalanches article in the last welcome, inappropriate events happen- issue interesting – the more so after my ing on our crags is for all of us to adopt Lucian Comoy personal experience in the Scottish High- the same response and not allow the lands. It was February at Glen Nevis and pound signs to light up our eyes at the The Summit prize for best letter goes five of us met up to finally agree on ‘having expense of our ethics. My plea to the to Wendy Sampson. Well done BMC is to publicise this practice and to Wendy, and a Nitro Rucksack is on a look’ at NE ridge of Aonach Beag, having its way. actively discourage it in any way that may excluded many other possibilities on the The Berghaus Nitro has a 24 litre capacity and be deemed appropriate. Ben and elsewhere due to recent snow. It’s features a limpet compression system. In 1998 the a long haul up past Steall to the bealach and Nitro was awarded a Millennium Product Award Wendy Sampson, The Rock Climb- down into the corrie. We proceeded up- for design and innovation. ing Centre, Chudleigh

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 3 24/04/2001, 11:52 AM NEWS Foot & Mouth - Troll BICC - Festival of climbing Foot and Mouth - Things can only get better! BMC advised people to avoid livestock and respect restriction notices. The re- sponse from climbers and walkers has been excellent. Within days of the outbreak, a ‘Foot and Mouth Location Watch’ was set up on www.thebmc.co.uk to pro- vide the latest access infor- mation for all regions of Eng- land, Wales and Scotland. At the same time, the BMC has lobbied national and local government, and major land- owners to open up low-risk For the latest Foot and Mouth The Foot & Mouth Location Watch land and public rights of way info for all climbing and at www.thebmc.co.uk as soon as possible in order walking areas in the UK, check The outbreak of Foot and Mouth Disease to save the rural economy, particularly all out the Foot and Mouth Location and the closure of much of the country- those involved with the outdoor industry Watch on www.thebmc.co.uk side since late February has been arguably who have seen their turnovers down 80% the biggest crisis to hit the rural economy over the past few months. for the past 50 years. From the start, the The & BMC Festival of Climbing Don't forget this date for your diary! The Troll BICC ’01 - another great success Entre-Prises and BMC Festival of Climb- ing is taking place on 7-9th December 2001, at the National Indoor Arena in Bir- mingham. This is the biggest event in the UK for climbers, hillwalkers, and moun- Another highly successful Troll BICC taineers. Where else can you watch top series was held at five venues this season. class climbers, enjoy leading lecturers, and Awesome Walls, the Welsh International snap up some pre-Christmas bargains all Centre, Bristol, The Foundry, and Leeds under one roof? Tickets will be on sale Wall, all played host to the UK's leading soon - check adverts for details. climbers for some action packed events. A full report of the Troll BICC is on page 34 New cave ‘discovered’ of this issue, and full results are on www.thebmc.co.uk. The BMC would like in South Wales to thank all of the volunteer helpers, host Entre-Prises (UK) Ltd have recently com- venues, and the sponsors Troll, Entre- pleted the fabrication of the world’s first Prises, Rock Designs, High Mountain truly authentic artificial cave. The cave is Sports and On the Edge. about 150 metres in length with a vertical range of 6½ metres, an active streamway, Another great event this season was the and a five metre waterfall pitch halfway along S7 British Bouldering Championships - its length which finally runs into a sump. A large central chamber (complete with stalac- Top competition action at the Foundry and there's a full report on page 35. tites) has four emerging passages all with hidden obstacles - low bedding planes, Troll BICC ’01 Results S7 BBC ’01Results squeezes, tight bends, boulder constrictions etc. A series of sprayed concrete layers have Senior Male Junior Male Senior Male Junior Male been applied to a steel reinforcing mesh and 1. Chris Cubbit 1. Jamie Cassidy 1. Malcolm Smith 1. Paul Smitton the internal surface has been sculpted to give 2. Gareth Parry 2. Paul Smitton 2. Gareth Parry 2. Jamie Cassidy scallop marks, cracks, flowstone etc. The 3. Steve McClure 3. Stewart Watson 3. Nic Sellers 3. Jack Rowlands caving complex offers 1 – 2 hours of caving for a novice group, but will also appeal to Senior Female Junior Female Senior Female Junior Female experienced cavers who wish to practice 1. Lucy Creamer 1. Jemma Powell 1. Lucy Creamer 1. Emma Twyford some SRT on a wet pitch or want to have a 2. Karin Magog 2. Sadie Renwick 2. Claire Murphy 2. Jemma Powell go at passing the squeezes. Contact the Welsh 3. Abigail Egan 3. Emma Twyford 3. Kath. Schirrmacher 3. Rosie Shaw International Climbing Centre for more in- formation: www.indoorclimbingwalls.co.uk

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NEWS Annual gathering - Alpine club symposium

BMC Annual Gathering The evening dinner was held at the Jurys This year’s BMC Annual Gathering was Hotel, Cardiff, and a high turnout of guests held in Cardiff, the first time the BMC were treated to a fine dinner and topical AGM has travelled to South Wales. Fes- speeches from Lord Dafyd Elis-Thomas, tivities kicked off on Friday night, with a Presiding Officer for the National Assem- packed audience for the two slide shows, bly for Wales. by Crag Jones and Carl Ryan. Then dur- ing Saturday morning there were a range New Stanage Guide of seminars and workshops for interested out soon members. The Access workshop was par- With the stop-gap reprint in the shops ticularly well attended, as a result of the already, it’s more good news with the new current situation, and several interesting edition of the BMC Stanage guide due out views were heard and debated. Meanwhile in the Summer. And with a bit of luck, a popular seminar entitled “Organising Stanage will be open again too! Cicerone Events And Improving Your Skills” was Press was considering publishing another running at the Welsh International Climb- guide to Stanage, but have decided to con- ing Centre. This provided hands-on train- Marko Prezelj - keynote speaker at the centrate on launching several important ing in belays, anchors, navigation, per- 2000 Alpine Club Symposium. new books in its European and interna- formance coaching, and event organisation tional walking and climbing series. Nepal - Alpine Club for over 25 members of local clubs and Symposium 2001 youth groups. Summit, the Information Service and the website were discussed BMC Draft Huts Marko Prezelj, the highly gifted Slovenian with interested parties, and the Member- climber was keynote speaker at the Al- ship Services Team gave a presentation Policy pine Club Symposium held at Plas y on the evolving services of the BMC to The BMC Huts Co-ordination and Advi- Brenin in November. The theme was club and individual members. sory Panel (HCAP) has written a draft “China and Tibet” and plenty of advice The afternoon was taken up with a well huts policy and would welcome comments was given on how to get permits and grant attended BMC AGM and Open Forum. from hut users and BMC members. The applications. The 2001 Symposium will The Open Forum gave members a chance draft policy is available from the BMC st cover Nepal, and is on Saturday 1 De- to air their views on a typically wide vari- office or as a download from the website cember. If you would like to be added to ety of topics, and a summary of the AGM www.thebmc.co.uk/thebmc/download/ the mailing list, just email: sec@alpine- is covered in Arena of this issue. download.htm club.org.uk, or phone 020 7613 075.

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ACCESS NEWS

nomic benefits of climbing and Respec’ due! walking in the countryside. The BMC has a new access awareness The Rural Development poster - you shouldn’t be able to miss it in panel, chaired by agriculture your local climbing shop or wall. The new specialist Ken Taylor, aims to poster, designed to highlight the BMC’s identify practical and policy campaign for responsible access to the out- initiatives to help maximise doors, can’t be overlooked with its bright socio-economic benefits to orange, yellow and red format. Don’t just local communities. In a related be amused, read and practice the messages, initiative the BMC is assist- and give the countryside its due respect! ing CCW with a new ‘Cycling and Walking Strategy for Wales’. This should present Markfield Quarry new opportunities for local The local council is hoping to acquire participation in access Markfield Quarry from Tarmac and plans projects, as well as potential to open the site up as a recreational area long term economic benefits and nature reserve. The council is commit- to the rural communities. ted to access for climbers, as part of its development plan, and if the sale goes New Access through they will be looking for help and advice from the BMC and local climbers. Maps The mapping of access land Foot and Mouth under the CRoW Act is now The BMC is keeping track of all Foot underway, with different ap- and Mouth restrictions online at proaches being adopted in www.thebmc.co.uk. But remember, even England and Wales. The Coun- if a crag is declared "open", it may still be tryside Agency has identified subject to seasonal nesting restrictions. Do two ‘lead’ mapping areas - one check the Regional Access Database be- covering Lancs, Cheshire, the fore you rush off! The New Respec' Due poster Peak District and part of York- shire, and the other in south- ern England. New ‘Draft’ Peak Railway Proposal- maps for the northern area are expected to update be presented to Local Access Forums for consultation this autumn, and wider con- The plan to re-open the Derby-Matlock sultation is also planned. The mapping railway formed part of the Strategic Rail process raises many questions for climb- Authority Agenda published on March ers and walkers: the status of limestone 13, 2001. Derbyshire Dales County Dales is still uncertain for example, and it Council and RailTrack had committed is possible that cliff edges or escarpments £800,000 on a feasibility assessment, but may be used as boundaries of access land no official work has so far taken place. with access to cliff bases being restricted. The proposal would have dramatic con- Also, the case has yet to be made for the sequences, not only for recreational ac- inclusion of isolated pockets of land (e.g. tivity in the Chee Dale area, but also on Robin Hood’s Stride, Cratcliffe and the wildlife and nature of this part of the Almscliff) as open country. Another im- Peak District National Park. portant issue is the interpretation of ‘im- The Strategic Rail Authority Agenda proved or semi-improved grassland’ which ranked the importance of the proposal in will not be classed as open country under the lower half amongst other such the Act. The BMC is seeking clarification schemes, describing it as of "7-10 years from the Government on all of these is- immediacy". It is unclear what this state- sues. Anyone with concerns about the ment means in terms of work on the pro- mapping of access land – particularly in posal and the BMC is trying to gain clari- northern England - should contact Dave For the latest Foot and Mouth fication. However, it seems unlikely that Turnbull at the BMC. info for all climbing and work will start soon. For anyone who’s walking areas in the UK, check interested, the Strategic Rail Authority out the Foot and Mouth Agenda can be found on their web site at The Southern Sandstone Location Watch on www.opraf.gov.uk Open Meeting www.thebmc.co.uk Rocks on your mind? Then come and talk BMC & Rural Development about it at the Southern Sandstone Open For the latest access info on Against a background of increasing eco- Meeting, 7pm, May 13th, at the Junction more than 600 crags in nomic problems in rural and agricultural Inn, Groombridge. The meeting is an open England and Wales - check communities in England and Wales, the forum and anyone with an interest in out the Regional Access BMC Access Committee has set up a southern sandstone conservation and Database (RAD) on specialist panel to investigate the eco- climbing is welcome. www.thebmc.co.uk

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ACCESS FOOT & MOUTH What Happens When the Dust Settles? By Dave Turnbull, BMC Access & Conservation Officer markets through BSE. Today British farming is at a new low - wallowing in the mud, carcasses and burning embers of hundreds of thousands of sheep, cattle and pigs, slaughtered to curb the spread of a disease which has triggered the greatest social and economic upheaval in Britain since World War II. In March the government estimated that FMD could peak at around 4400 cases sometime in June, by which time, up to 50% of all live- First of all, I must declare an interest. As well as stock in Britain may have been slaughtered, and burnt or buried. being BMC Access & Conservation Officer and a Even if FMD is controlled before it gets to this stage, one thing keen climber, I also come from a sheep farming is for sure, the structure and nature of British agriculture will family in the North East and have seen several close change significantly once FMD is brought under control. farming friends devastated by the slaughter of their livestock since foot and mouth hit the country. As Tourism and the outdoor industry the outbreak enters its third month and debate Few people could have predicted the impact that FMD would increasingly focuses on the future of British have on tourism and the outdoor industry. The case for tourism agriculture, Summit assesses the implications of has been strongly made and the Government has already com- agricultural change on land use and access in the mitted itself to rate relief and wider ‘recovery’ measures. Retail- British countryside. ers and hoteliers in the Lakes, Snowdonia, Dartmoor, the York- shire Dales and the Peak have reported incomes down by 50- So much has been written about foot and mouth disease (FMD) in 90%. Of the 938 licensed outdoor education centres in Britain recent weeks that it is hard to know where to start. FMD is a huge around 80% have been forced to close and lay-off staff whilst the tragedy for livestock farmers, and its economic impact on tourism, remainder are operating on reduced programmes. the outdoor industry and rural life in general has been enormous. The Government's message that ‘the Countryside is Open’ is Agriculture contributes only1.2% to British GDP yet FMD has something of a con - country roads and village antique shops may brought the countryside to a virtual standstill - tourism on the be open but footpaths and land in low risk areas (e.g. areas which other hand comprises 7% of GDP. Government statistics show are not grazed) have remained closed for too long. The good news that tourism contributes £64bn to the national economy and that however is that things can only get better! Local authorities and £12bn of this comes from visitors to the English countryside alone. major landowners such as the National Trust, Forestry Commis- More than anything else, the losses incurred so far by retailers, sion and MoD have already re-opened some areas and this trend hoteliers and outdoor education centres, emphasises the funda- will continue over the summer as the pressure for access increases, mental importance to the national economy of access to the coun- and FMD is gradually brought under control. tryside. As it is, ‘access’ has had a high profile in recent years as the Countryside and Rights of Way Act has passed through parlia- What does the future hold ? ment, but if ever the Government needed proof of its economic Less farmers – more diversification importance, the blanket closure of much of the countryside since For many farmers, the loss of their livestock will be the final nail late February has provided the evidence. in the coffin. Many will go out of farming altogether and those that remain will face tough decisions and an uncertain future. Agriculture in crisis Government compensation may pay off the huge overdrafts most At the end of 2000 with an average farm income of £7800pa, farms operate under, but whether the banks will be keen to re- British farming was on its knees after a decade of decline fuelled invest in the industry is a different matter. For some, the answer by cheap foreign imports, reduced subsidies, a strong pound and will lie in diversification into new forms of agriculture and greater weak euro, reduced red meat consumption and the loss of export exploitation of tourist markets.

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ACCESS

Rural Economy in Decline How Can We Help? Eat the View By Ken Taylor View from the plantation, Stanage. You’d have to have been bivvying on the summit of Credit: Alex Messenger Mt Vinson not to know about the Foot and Mouth Disease (FMD) crisis that is currently hitting the hill farmers treat their farming as a way of life, re-building devas- British livestock industry. This catches British tated areas might be too much. But, as the saying goes you agriculture at a low ebb - the result of falling cannot “Eat the View”. Many are genuinely having to face leav- incomes, BSE, and swine vesicular disease. ing the industry unless they can diversify and supplement their income elsewhere. We are all familiar with the seemingly ubiqui- Diversifying into B&Bs, teashops and campsites hasn’t made tous teashops, farmhouse bed and breakfasts, so this is hardly farmers immune to the economic devastation in the wake of the something new. FMD storm (many aren’t very happy about the Right to Roam But maybe climbers and walkers can do more to support the legislation either, but that’s another story). Yet, temporary loss people who look after the hills and mountains for us. I recall, of access to the countryside has underlined how much we value with some embarrassment, a recent trip to Wasdale to go ice it. So, what can we do to help the people who look after it for us climbing. I had a wonderful day, on perfect ice, in perfect weather while we’re back at home enjoying the spoils of our increasing and arrived home having not spent a single penny in the Lake wealth? District (carefully propping my National Trust membership card against the windscreen to avoid even having to pay for parking!). During the foot and mouth crisis The first priority is to rid the countryside of the disease. Obvi- Eat the view ously, no one is sure how the disease is being spread and so The Countryside Agency has recently launched an initiative called MAFF have adopted a ‘precautionary’ approach (i.e. if in doubt “Eat the View”, and the BMC is investigating how it can encour- - close it). The best thing climbers and hill-walkers can do is age its members to help. One idea is to attempt to encourage follow the rules even if they appear overly cautious. Not only is climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers to meet their needs for it important that we do not spread the disease, it must be seen food, accommodation, entertainment, and gear in the outdoor that we are not spreading it. MAFF are concerned that, as peo- areas, as opposed to their home base. ple tire of the bad news and other items grab the headlines (e.g. Maybe we should all cough up a few quid to stay at a proper the general election), people will relax and ‘forget’ to stick to the campsite, rather than seeking out that quiet spot for a night or rules. It is likely that areas of the countryside will be progres- two of wild camping. The outdoor industry (including outdoor sively opened up as the outbreaks become confined to specific education centres and retailers) can help too. For example, Plas y areas. So, until we get the all clear - please keep off what you’re Brenin provides employment for local people, a venue for local told to keep off. community meetings, and a focus for farmers to voice their con- I’m sure many people will be having the same thoughts as me cerns about access issues. The centre also buys a percentage of - where else can we go to get out in the hills - Spain, France, the its meat from a local farmers’ co-operative, ensuring that money Alps? Instead, perhaps, we could consider a change. There’s goes back into the local economy. always climbing walls, or other sports such as road cycling or No one answer can fit all. But take time to stop and think what even golf. each of us can do to support the local people and communities in the areas that we value most highly. How can we help rural economies? At some stage, the crisis will have passed and those in the rural communities affected will set about putting their lives back to- Ken Taylor has been an environmental consultant gether again. It is something of a hackneyed expression that farm- for the past 20 years and a BMC Access Committee ers are always moaning. Maybe they have cried wolf in the past, member since 1990. He runs Asken Ltd and his but this time many are facing extremely difficult circumstances. clients include the Countryside Agency and MoD. For some, FMD will be a life changing experience. Whilst many

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28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 12 24/04/2001, 12:23 PM

CREVASSE RESCUE

It is glaciation, cloaking the mountains in snow and ice, splintering rocks into fantastic shapes through the freezing and thawing of water in cracks, that makes alpine mountains so spectacular, exciting and potentially hazardous.

Rob Collister from Plas y Brenin takes a closer look at the infamous and uniquely alpine danger – crevasses, and the legendary art of crevasse rescue.

Glaciers Glaciers are the bodies of permanent snow, hardened by time and pressure into ice, that flow out of the mountains. They are fed by the heavy snowfalls of winter then melt in the warm temperatures of summer. When the melt rate at the snout (front) of a glacier is greater than the rate of advance caused by gravity, it is said to be retreating. For the last 100 years the world’s glaciers have been retreat- ing, growing steadily smaller and becoming covered with rock that falls onto the ice from the surrounding moun- tains to form moraine. A moraine-covered glacier is, in effect the rubbish tip of the mountains, and about as much fun to walk on, but there are far more sinister hazards to be found lurking in this environment. Glacier ice is a plastic substance, soft enough to flow downhill, but stiff enough to crack when stressed. Such stress occurs on the outside of a bend, whenever the bed surface steepens, or at the sides where friction causes the ice to flow slower than in the centre. In all these cases, a glacier will split open to form crevasses. These can be anything from a centimetre to fifty metres wide. Larger crevasses are invariably scary to look at, and seem to try and suck you into their dark blue depths, but in reality it’s the smaller ones of one to two metres across that are the nastiest, being less obvious but quite wide enough to fall into. And although glaciologists tell us that crevasses rarely exceed 50 metres depth due to pressure constraints, this is scant consolation for the hapless climber.

(TOP) Crevasse rescue practice on a Jonathan Conville course. (RIGHT) Now what? Wait patiently

NO EASY WAY OUT WAY NO EASY and hope your friends have mastered the arts described on pages 16-17! Credits: Payne 14 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 14 24/04/2001, 12:24 PM ALPINE SKILLS

climber needs to have a similar length of rope in coils, tied off, for use in a rescue. Do remember that whatever the size of the party, do keep well spaced out even when stopping for a break. There have been a number of cases when the combined weight of two climbers coming together for a breather proved too much for a crevasse bridge which has collapsed, killing them both. Remember, too, that the inside of a crevasse is a bitterly cold place, however hot it may be on the surface, and that snow is extremely abrasive to skin. Always wear gloves and at least a long sleeved shirt when travelling on glaciers. Weaving your way As you delicately progress across the glacier be alert for all suspi- cious signs such as dimples, cracks, and hollows. If you are con- fronted by a suspicious-looking hollow in the snow, probe it with your axe or a ski-stick. If the axe goes straight through, or the crevasse bridge collapses into the depths, try again elsewhere! It is not unusual to have to weave back and forth across a glacier, crossing or jumping each individual crack at its narrowest or safest point. Late in the season, the only bridges remaining may be wildly improbable cantilevers of dripping ice. Often, they are stronger than they look, but take no chances. Arrange a belay or stake, take a strong sitting stance, then cross on all fours to spread the weight as much as possible. Break Through Sooner or later, however, you will go through a crevasse whose Roped up for glacier travel, note the tied off coils. Credit: Payne existence you never suspected. Whether you plummet to the bottom, find yourself dangling on the end of the rope contem- plating a bright circle of daylight somewhere above, or merely Look out – there’s a crevasse about! feel your legs kicking in space while icicles tinkle far below, will In summer, the lower parts of most glaciers, when not covered depend entirely on your partner. with moraine, become bare of snow, revealing ice, a so-called “dry If someone on your rope does suddenly take the plunge then glacier”. Here crevasses are without malice and provide useful falling backwards will always be more effective than trying to places to practise ice climbing and rescue techniques. But higher thrust an axe into the snow or attempting a boot-axe belay. It all up when masked by snow (a “wet” glacier) they become a very happens very quickly and there are no substitutes for alertness, different proposition. Identifying possible crevasses under snow quick reactions and a tight rope. Admittedly, that is easier said is a skill only mastered by experience, often only a faint dimpling than done at the end of a long tiring day, but ironically that is of the surface to the right or left may be discernible, perhaps precisely when the bridges will be at their weakest. leading to an open hole some way off, and after fresh snow even such subtle clues are hidden and extreme care is required. Dilemma Time Glaciers are at their safest in spring when there is still a lot of Should the worst happen, dangling on the end of a rope is consid- winter snow about, and freeze-thaw is strengthening the bridges. erably more comfortable with a chest harness or with the high In summer, crevasses are relatively safe early in the morning attachment point provided by taking coils over one shoulder, when the snow is (or should be!) frozen hard, but by the after- tying them off with a full hitch and clipping the bight of rope noon it will have softened and bridges will be in a precarious remaining into the belay loop of a sit-harness. This system is state. As the season goes on, crevasses become increasingly most effective if the coils are kept as short as possible without open. By the end of August, glaciers that were straightforward being uncomfortable and the bight is also kept short so that the ski runs in April can be all but impassable. impact of a fall comes first onto the sit harness; the function of the coils is only to prevent the upper body falling back with the Rope Up! possibility, especially with a heavy sack, of inverting. Unfortu- As a rule always rope up on a wet glacier, tracks in the snow or nately, holding a fall into a crevasse is much easier with a low other unroped parties are no guarantee that a glacier is safe and attachment point. A sudden pull to a chest attachment is likely there have been fatalities even on well-used hut walks like the to pluck one head first towards, or even into, the crevasse. Argentière glacier. There is a lot of misconception about roping One solution to this dilemma is for the person in front, being the together, but the key to safe glacier travel is to have little or no most at risk, to have an improvised chest harness as described, while slack in the rope. Bodyweight combined with the friction of the anyone else on the rope has a low attachment point. rope biting into the crevasse lip are normally sufficient to hold a Another possibility is for everyone to have a chest fall, but only if there is no slack, coils in the hand just increase the attachment but to also have a short prusik loop on length of a fall and the difficulty of stopping it. the rope at arm’s reach in front of them; this acts as a There is definitely safety in numbers when it comes to glacier hand loop to pull on, giving an extra split-second in travel. The more people there are on a rope, the less chance there which to fall backwards and dig the heels in. is of the whole party disappearing forever down the same hole, nonetheless, it is still wise to keep well apart. 10m between each Turn over to find out how to get out of a crevasse. climber is ideal for a rope of three or more. However the more And even better, check out the BMC Alpine usual, and more hazardous, situation is a rope of two, in which Experience video for definative advice on alpine case it is worth having 15m of rope out. At the same time, each techniques. Only £10 to members. Order by phone, or the online shop at www.thebmc.co.uk BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22 1 5

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 15 24/04/2001, 12:24 PM ALPINE SKILLS Scenario 1 The leader of a party of three has fallen through a bridge and the Now get out of this! combination of some initial slack and subsequent stretch in the Make no mistake, rescuing someone from a crevasse, or extricating rope has left him swinging in space ten feet down. The rope has yourself is NOT easy. You are only likely to be successful if you are cut deeply into the snow and the other two climbers are lying on totally familiar with the techniques involved and have practised them their sides with the rope tight to their harnesses (diag. below). in a fairly realistic situation e.g. on snow as opposed to a warm, dry climbing wall. On the other hand, be wary of practising in situations that are too realistic – there is a lot that can go wrong! The ideal training venue is a wind scoop or a natural hollow on a glacier that has a corniced lip but is visible and easily accessed from the other side. Many outdoor centres offer alpine training courses including crevasse rescue, and if in any doubt as to your own ability, consider a few hours of expert training.

Stage 1 The first step is for No 3 to construct an anchor. Assuming that No 2 can take the weight alone, No 3 moves forward to do this just behind No 2. Doing it further back could leave them short of rope, unless they are carrying a second one.

With a thin snow cover, the best anchor is likely to be provided by ice-screws, ideally at least two of them, 18 inches apart, and linked with a sling so that they are equally loaded. This can be achieved simply by tying an overhand knot near one end of the doubled sling to create two separate loops. The short loop is clipped into the nearest ice-screw, the longer loop into the furthest; adjust the position of the overhand knot so that a karabiner clipped into the bottom of each loop, at the knot, will load both screws simultaneously.

With a thicker snow cover, the belay of choice will usually be a horizontally buried ice-axe, preferably strengthened with an axe or hammer placed vertically No.3 constructs an anchor in front of it (a T-axe belay); then clove-hitch a long sling to the mid-point of the shaft. If there is plenty of space and plenty of rope, a snow bollard is a good alternative, especially if a couple of axes or ski-sticks are placed at the back to prevent the cheese-wire effect.

(LEFT) Bollard Belay, T-axe belay, and equalised ice screws

Stage 2 Next, transfer the weight of the fallen climber from No 2 to the anchor. This can be achieved by putting a prusik on the live rope (a French prusik is best as it can be released under load if need be), then linking it (DIAG.) Weight being to the anchor with slings. transferred onto belay. No 2 eases himself Note victim has suspended cautiously forward until his rucksack from his all the weight is being harness, this will make the taken by the prusik. The hauling easier. rope from 2 to 3 should (RIGHT) Axe belay taking then be clove-hitched the weight. into the anchor, just in case, and slack taken in as No 2 unties. NO EASY WAY OUT WAY NO EASY

16 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 16 24/04/2001, 12:25 PM Stage 3 Now the lip can be prepared, and the other end of the rope must be dropped to the victim. More often than not, the live rope will Stage 4 have dug in so deeply that it will be impossible to use. Loose While No 2 is establishing contact and preparing the lip, No 3 can be snow must be hacked away from the lip (preferably a few feet to setting up a pulley system. There are many possible methods but the one side of our friend down below) and ice axes, ski sticks or a traditional Z pulley is tried and tested and as effective as any. The new rucksack placed at the edge to prevent the new rope cutting in. If live rope to the victim passes through a karabiner on the anchor, and there seems to be a danger of losing them, they may need to be is brought back towards the crevasse where a French prusik is attached attached to the old rope or to a vertical axe belay with a prusik. to the live rope as close to the edge as is safe. What is now the haul All this can be done by, say, No 2, protecting himself with a long rope is clipped into the prusik and brought back towards the anchor prusik to the live rope. This stage is very important if the hoist is thus completing a Z shape in the rope, which gives a mechanical to be successful, but because alpinists usually practise on rock advantage of 3 to 1. This means that to lift the victim one foot, three or on a dry area of glacier, it tends to be underestimated, if not feet of rope will have to be hauled in, so that the prusik on the live overlooked altogether. rope will almost certainly have reached the anchor before the climber has been extricated. To hold his weight while the prusik is slid back down the rope towards the crevasse, another French prusik is put on The Z pulley system the live rope and clipped to the anchor with a separate krab. This acts as a clutch, allowing the rope to run freely while it is being hauled in, but taking the strain when the haul rope is released. Devices like the Ropeman and the Tiblock can be used as alternatives to prusik loops, and there are several different types of prusik knot. It is worth experimenting to discover the pros and cons of each. A small pulley on the hoisting prusik is invaluable in reducing friction and weighs next to nothing.

Stage 5 Assuming there are no problems getting the new end of rope down to the victim, No’s 2 and 3 can now start hauling. With only two on the surface it will be hard work! The original rope, probably still dug deep into the snow, is best left slack as the victim is hoisted, lest it catch at the lip. (Obviously, if the snow cover is thin and the rope has not cut in very far, it may be possible to use the original rope to haul, which will speed up the whole rescue considerably.) No 3, still attached to the original rope with a prusik, acts as a link-person to the victim throughout and is on hand to help as he or she crawls thankfully over the lip.

Scenario 2 Now imagine your partner has plunged down a crevasse and you are alone on the surface with the rope taut to your waist. You are unlikely to hear your partner (no matter how loudly he or she shouts). If your partner is familiar with the techniques for prusiking you might just be able to lie there and let them get on with it. However, your partner may not be in a position to get themselves out. So, you will have to construct an anchor and transfer the load while still holding their weight which is not easy. Once that is accomplished you should try and make contact with your partner to assess the situation (you can belay yourself towards the edge using the spare end of the rope). To hoist them out you will probably find an ordinary Z pulley insufficient. Alternatives include getting your partner to help in an assisted hoist, or increasing the mechanical advantage of the Z pulley. You can double the mechanical advantage of the Z pulley by adding an extra strand in the hauling system by using the spare end of the rope, or better still by using a length of static cord or tape (a 6 metre length is ideal and doubles up as abseiling ‘tat’). One way of doing this is to tie one end of the extra strand into the anchor and passing the other end through the hauling prussic and linking it with a karabiner to the hauling strand. Even by doubling the Z pulley you will still need to use a very effective hauling technique by wrapping the hauling rope over your shoulder and using the strength of your legs to pull. It goes without saying that you will need adequate equipment that is easily accessible if and when someone falls into a crevasse.

Food for thought selves. There are no easy solutions to any of them, but all will Then there are all those nightmare scenarios that are worth pon- be more easily resolved if there is more than one person on the dering in an idle moment: unroped climber unconscious at the surface, and all can be avoided by being roped up and keeping bottom of a deep crevasse; unroped climber wedged in a con- slack to a minimum. As always, prevention is far better than striction; roped climber 20ft down and unable to help them- cure. Good luck!

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22 1 7

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 17 25/04/2001, 11:27 AM EQUIPMENT BREATHE DEEPLY Rob Wylie from Mountain Hardwear takes a look at waterproof breathable fabrics - how they work and how they should be used.

We all know what it’s like to step out into a raging storm, be it from a tent, a climbing hut or a car. There’s nothing more satisfying than donning your mountain armour and feeling the elements thrash feebly against your seemingly impenetrable outer layer. That’s probably why people are sometimes so disappointed, thinking they had cheated nature’s forces, that feeling of high elation leading to a slow realisation that driving rain has penetrated your defences.

At times like this you realise that all waterproof forms into water vapour. The structure of the inner protective breathable jackets are not created equal. moisture barrier allows the water vapour to pass through it, but Especially when your climbing/walking partner prevents rain from coming in. This is due to the fact that water revels in the fact that they continue to remain bone vapour molecules are much smaller than liquid molecules. How dry. Your loss (of comfort) is their gain (in smugness). much the fabric ‘breathes’ depends upon the inner barriers ‘resist- How did you get it so wrong? ance to evaporative transfer’. This rate of breathability is widely termed RET. The lower the RET rating the higher the breathability, What makes a fabric waterproof & breathable? because the resistance to vapour transfer is less. That’s why dif- All waterproof fabrics have an outer layer, or face fabric. The ferent fabrics can have different levels of breathability (or com- main function of the face fabric is to provide a flexible & durable fort), even if the Delta T or conditions are identical. outer shell. The inside of the face fabric is either laminated or coated with a protective moisture barrier. This barrier is the part What is a DWR? that does all the work of keeping you dry and comfortable in wet DWR stands for Durable Water Repellency. A DWR is a chemical conditions. It prevents water ingress from the outside and allows treatment that is applied to the outside of the face fabric. This moisture vapour to escape, keeping you comfortable inside. DWR treatment makes water hitting the face fabric surface bead up and run off, like rain on a window. After extended use the DWR If it's that simple, don’t all fabrics perform pretty treatment on all face fabrics wears out. Water hitting the fabric much the same? surface starts to give the impression of soaking into the face, rather In a word, no. Firstly face fabrics differ significantly in abrasion than beading up and running off. When this happens it isn’t imme- resistance, tear strength, weight and water repellency. It’s im- diately necessary to re-proof the garment using TX Direct, Grangers portant that the jacket has the right face fabric for the job. You Extreme or similar proofing agent. You can easily restore the DWR wouldn’t want a nice soft handle, low tear resistance fabric on a water beading qualities of the fabric by applying heat, usually by full mountain shell, no matter how pretty it might look in the washing & tumble-drying. The DWR treatment held within the shop. Likewise, on the protective moisture barrier, whether a face fabric melts at reasonably low temperatures spreading to the membrane or coating, the range of breathability and durability outer face, allowing the water to bead once again. DWR treatments on offer is vast. can wear out quickly in certain situations, smoke from campfires for example greatly reduces the effectiveness of DWR treatments. How can one fabric be more breathable than an- Despite claims to the contrary, no manufacturer has developed a other in the same conditions? permanent DWR finish. All DWR treatments wear off over time To understand why breathability can differ, you have to first and eventually need re-proofing. understand why/how breathable fabrics work. Regardless of the product: Gore-Tex, Sympatex, Conduit, H2n0 etc. they all work, Is durability all about the face fabric? or ‘breathe’ by temperature differential (Delta T). When the Face fabric is certainly important, but the prime factor in deter- environment on the inside of the jacket is warmer than the envi- mining long term durability is the overall fabric construction. ronment on the outside a driving force is created. The higher the Membranes and coatings are thin and fragile, they need protect- Delta T, the higher the driving force and the more the fabric will ing on the outside (the function of the face fabric) and on the ‘breathe’. The perspiration you create when active outdoors trans- inside (the function of the lining). Serious mountaineering shells

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28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 18 24/04/2001, 12:26 PM

EQUIPMENTEQUIPMENT

A typical mountain jacket, showing features to look out for:

GettingGetting thethe rainrain in!in!

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28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 20 24/04/2001, 12:26 PM EQUIPMENT

all utilise a laminated mesh liner on the inner surface. Under a hats (at the expense of better breathability). You really have to microscope this laminated lining looks very similar to a fishing decide on your intended end use. Multiple pockets are great for net. It protects the membrane or coating, but easily facilitates the storing gear but lower situated pockets are a pain as they get in passage of water vapour. This construction is described as 3 the way whilst active. Another common mistake is to think that Layer. This type of construction also yields the lightest weight a jacket is better because it has 4 pockets rather than 2. It’s for strength. 2 Layer construction has a loose mesh liner on the usually a bad idea to ‘load’ heavy items in your outer shell, you inside, rather than a laminated mesh. Contrary to popular belief will find this quite fatiguing (especially when not wearing a the primary function of the loose mesh liner isn’t to aid pack) as the jacket will tend to hang from your shoulders. Ac- breathability. It is to increase durability. It doesn’t matter if the cess zippers that allow you to store items in the pockets of your fabric is a coating or a membrane, 3 Layer construction is always inner layers are a nice idea as they also double as a venting far more durable than 2 Layer construction, in every single case. option. With the exception of Gore-Tex Paclite (discussed later) an un- lined jacket is either not very durable or not very breathable (or Pit Zips both) when compared to 3 Layer. Anything that allows you to get rid of unwanted heat is a good idea. True, you have a large zip in the front of all jackets, which You’ve blinded me with science can you summarise? is pretty effective for cooling off. But what if it’s lightly raining The more demanding user should only consider a 3 Layer type or you are climbing? Pit zips do offer fairly efficient venting and construction. Colder weather means better breathability and in when used in conjunction with body or pocket vents, large mild conditions it’s more important that you have a highly breath- amounts of cool air can be pumped around the inside of the able product (as the Delta T driving forces will be lower). Recent jacket. In the past Pit Zips have added bulk and weight to jack- steps forward in membrane technology have evolved a new gen- ets, but new zip technologies have partly solved these prob- eration of Gore-Tex fabrics, called XCR (short for Extended lems, allowing for much easier instant access. Comfort Range). 3 Layer XCR offers a staggering 40% increase in breathability over the Classic 3 Layer Gore-Tex, with no sac- Water Resistant Zippers rifice in durability. Gore-Tex also simultaneously launched a 2 You’ve probably all seen them, shiny zips that look pretty cool. Layer version of XCR, a good product, but significantly less Many people describe them as “like a dry suit zip” but this isn’t breathable and less durable than the 3 Layer XCR version. the case. These zips are classed as water-resistant as they can’t hold back any water pressure. Water running over a surface i.e. What about the Gore-Tex Paclite that you mentioned? not falling onto it, has surprisingly low water pressure, hence Paclite is sometimes described as a 2½ Layer construction. Rather when water-resistant type zips are used correctly (with a small than a laminated mesh on the inner of the membrane Paclite has flap covering them) they are particularly effective at keeping a pattern of small polymer dots. These dots do the same job as water out, minimizing bulk and weight. Water-resistant zips are the 3 Layer laminated mesh (they protect the membrane) but used exposed to the elements but they must have a waterproof with significant weight and pack size savings (hence the name pocket behind the zipper, preventing the inevitable seepage of Paclite). Unlike unlined garments, Paclite is still very durable water entering the inside of the jacket. Do these zips spell the (due to the dots) and very breathable, although not as breathable end for the ‘standard’ zipper? No. Water-resistant zippers work or durable as 3 Layer XCR due to a difference in the membrane well when they are flat and in a straight line, bend them or crease technology and construction. them, like under the arm for example and they do tend to open. Water-resistant zips are also fairly stiff in operation and par- Fabric, Features and Fit for Function ticularly expensive. Durability wise these zips are tested to Fabric is only a third of the story. After all it’s not what you’ve 100,000 cycles which is more than adequate for most needs! got, but what you do with it. Mountain users require a very Therefore water-resistant zips are certainly a worthwhile inno- different set of features to the dog walker, this is where design vation, but not practical in every application. and innovation comes to the fore. The exploded diagram on the opposite page illustrates some common jacket features. Waterproof stretch fabrics Waterproof fabrics with stretch already exist. It’s quite a nice Mountain Hoods concept and certainly conjures up ideas of total freedom of move- Hoods should be able to fit a helmet underneath if required. Some ment. Current stretch fabrics however do require fairly high hood designs use acres of fabric to compensate for poor fit. It’s levels of mechanical force to engage the stretch. They also make easier to cut, sew and tape fabric in straight lines and, let’s face it, some compromises on durability. Stretch panels in strategic the head is a melon shaped object. Check for ease of hood adjust- places (away from main wear areas) make more sense than jack- ment using a gloved hand, single pull cords are far superior in this ets made entirely from stretch material. area, especially when you can’t see the cord lock behind your head. When the weather turns foul you’ll need a good seal around Other considerations before purchase the face to prevent water ingress and a good hood will turn with Jackets and fabrics are a little like football teams. Don’t ask a your head. If it’s windy and your hood isn’t in use, some type of mate who’s an avid Liverpool supporter to explain the merits of roll down facility is a nice touch. Winds tend to rush up vertical the Manchester United back four and expect to get a 100% surfaces so it’s an irritation to have your hood constantly flap- impartial answer. Don’t get too bogged down in fabrics and ping around. With the recent advances in lamination and glueing, features - give some thought to fit. Cheaper jackets tend to use hood bills (or peaks) have become fairly advanced. Laminated lots of fabric to compensate for poor fit. Go to your nearest fabrics, as well as being stiffer, also trap less moisture. The specialist outdoor store that is staffed by climbers. It shouldn’t ‘thick-wire-in-the-peak’ approach is fairly old hat. Of course be too difficult to find someone who has used many of the look for a stiff peak, one that will withstand a stiff wind. jacket/fabric combinations on offer and will be familiar with the merits and disadvantages of each one. Explain the conditions Pockets that you usually find yourself in and what activities the jacket Venting pockets backed with mesh are pretty cool (literally!). will be used for. Next time you could be the one smiling whilst But then Gore-Tex pocket bags are good for storing wet gloves/ everyone else can’t wait to get home and dry out.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22 2 1

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 21 24/04/2001, 12:29 PM LIABILITY CLIMBER

OR LEECH? A new disease could kill our climbing walls A personal view by Ian Dunn, Entre-Prises UK, Climbing Wall Manufacturer

Unfortunately at the moment a number of insurance compa- nies are known to have paid out of court for an easy life. Under- standable from their point of view as going all the way to court is serious bucks, but this unfortunately encourages the leeches to make even more claims. When an insurance company is ready to fight the leech often slimes away, or often more accurately the truth is the marginally brighter no win no fee leech, pulls out ‘cos he knows he’s on to a loser. In a few great cases the leeches have Accept the responsibility. If you want to pushed all the way and lost, how sad! dangle around fine, but don't blame others if So if you don’t want to pay higher entrance charges to get into it all goes wrong! walls, please don’t make ludicrous claims and please encourage anyone you know who is thinking about it, not to be so selfish. I’ve heard of claims that are so ridiculous they’re laughable, but One of the things I used to love about our sport unfortunately true. One guy fell inside a chimney – the claim - was its freedom from rules, regulations and people ‘chimneys are dangerous and shouldn’t be built’, another fell telling me what to do. I’m afraid though that these from the top of the wall because he hadn’t clipped in, and why? days may be coming to an end because our sport - because there was no sign telling him to clip in. And then has been infected by something worse than Foot there’s the endless tedious people who’s hold span; or those and Mouth disease. who find the flooring not to their liking, or wait for it, those who slipped because the hold was dirty! It seems in climbing at the moment, or should I more specifically I’m sure 99.9% of you who are reading this feel like I do. What say at climbing walls, there is a new breed of climbing leech, the hell has gone wrong with the world? Climbing is all about inspired by adverts from ‘No win, No fee’ lawyer leeches, en- assessing the risk, weighing up a situation, making decisions, go couraging them to make claims every time they break a nail. Yes or not, and taking the necessary safety precautions. If you fall I’m afraid it’s a sad fact but there are now dozens and dozens of and hurt yourself, feel daft, brush yourself down and limp away so called climbers trying to cash in on this little game. or try again. Just try to imagine for a minute that it’s your fault, But who do they think pays? It may be the insurance company you got it wrong, your assessment was flawed, you’re going to that pays the leech, but you can be sure that they’re not going to do it better next time. If you’re one of those leeches who thinks be losing out, so it’s down to you and me in the end. Insurance great who can I sue?, please just crawl back under your rock, for walls has more than doubled over the last year and the wall you’re not wanted in the climbing world. managers are going to have little choice but to pass it on in higher Oh, and by the way if you’re a Centre Manager, and you’re not entrance charges. So now some new leech comes to the wall, is being sued yet, I’m afraid you soon will be. It’s a disease and it’s forced to pay £6 to get in, feels ripped off, so takes a dive and catching, perhaps this article is encouraging even more? So if sues for £20K. Next time the slimy little worm dares show his your holds are dirty, your flooring’s not fixed and as soft as a face, the new charge is £7. It’s a vicious circle that we have to feather, you’ve not had your wall serviced for ages, your light- break, because there’s no end to it. ing’s not perfect, and you’ve not finished writing those risk assessments, and notices that you’ve been working on for ages, Increased litigation will: take care some leech is going to find a way to get you! - Increase the entrance costs to walls, In the next issue of Summit Forum will give a - Limit future developments as cash is tied up, full report on liability issues, the trend towards - Discourage entrepreneurs from opening new walls, criminal prosecution, plus advice on how to - Possibly close some walls to under 18’s altogether, reduce the risk of litigation. If you have any - Limit the design and interest of new walls, experience (good or bad) or a point of view (for - and may well even end up closing some walls down. or against) please write in, or email - Who’s the winner? [email protected]

22 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 22 24/04/2001, 1:04 PM

REPORT WINTER MEET '01 A personal account of the BMC/MCofS International Winter Climbing Meet 25 Feb - 3 Mar 2001, Glenmore Lodge, Scotland By Stuart Ingram, the lucky meet co-ordinator. Now that everyone had settled, partner- Kirkpatrick, Marko Prezelj, and Andrej ships began to form themselves, and Tues- Stremfeld. Full advantage was taken of the day saw parties venturing far and wide - presence of many of today’s leading pro- Shelterstone, Hell’s Lum, Meagaidh, and the tagonists, and everyone very generously con- Ben all seeing attention from meet partici- tributed their time. pants. Further afield, a band of Slovenians But this was just the warm up for the final were roaming the far North knocking off Saturday's action, the first ever Ice Olym- hard routes at an impressive rate. In the pics! A full day of events to test the limits of corries, White Magic (VI,7) was receiving our guests' strength and cunning: stretcher Excellent conditions. Credit: Ian Parnell multiple ascents, and there were rumours races, blindfold ice climbing, drytooling race, flying about a desperate new route Heinz leashless pull-ups, ice-axe flinging, snow- Given the amazing and Zak and a party of Austrians were on (even- man building and chocolate eating were all unusually good climbing tually to become Happy Tyroleans VII,9). inflicted upon the hapless visitors, helped conditions encountered at the last The weather had showed a marked improve- along by a steady supply of Gluhwein from winter meet, I worried that the ment and everyone was enjoying the great the kitchen and liberal bribing of the judges. guests at this year’s event would conditions. Things seemed to be working After a great day of fun, the inevitable vigor- get a more realistic picture of out fine and I was starting to relax, but the ous ceilidh rounded things off on a high note. what winter climbing in Scotland spectre of foot and mouth was beginning to The meet had achieved its objectives de- is usually like, and wondered if I loom large. spite considerable opposition from the shouldn’t be outside doing a sun With concerns increasing, everyone was weather and epidemic disease – our guests dance or something, and praying determined to get out on Wednesday but as had experienced real Scottish winter climb- for good neve. I ferried busloads of climbers upwards into ing conditions, exchanged views on issues the gloom, it was becoming clear that this of mutual concern, shared experiences and 44 guests of all abilities from 19 countries as could be the last day of climbing. At midday strengthened international relationships diverse as Iran, China, Israel and South Af- the Scottish Executive asked the Lodge to within our sport. Thank you to everyone rica were on the way to meet 40 British suspend all outdoor activities, effectively who attended, hosts, guests, and of course hosts and try their hands at the unique style ending all climbing on the meet. At that the Lodge staff; your energy and commit- of climbing that Scotland offers. True to evening's briefing, the BMC, MCofS and ment made the week what it was. form, as they descended on Glenmore Lodge Glenmore Lodge asked all the climbers to The meet was sponsored by UK Sports, in a confusion of delayed flights and lost consider the consequences of the foot and Mountain Equipment, Karrimor and Moun- baggage, the weather lived up to its reputa- mouth outbreak for local communities, and tain Technology and generously supported tion and showcased strong winds and cloud to respect the decision to stay off the moun- by the Highland Council and Moray, along with a couple of feet of snow. Things tains in an attempt to limit its spread. Some Badenoch & Strathspey Enterprise. were looking decidedly grim, but after an guests found the situation confusing (skiing evening briefing and welcome, everyone was still allowed? Disinfectant foot baths? Mem- ensconced in the lodge and looking forward bers of the public still climbing?) but re- to the corries on the ‘morrow. spected the wishes of the BMC/MCofS and Monday dawned, and the weather was the Lodge, and stayed off the hill. positively grinning in anticipation at the may- However, as meet co-ordinator I was now hem it was going to cause. But everyone got in the difficult position of occupying 80 amongst the whiteout and spindrift with en- climbers for three days without letting them Winter Meet 2001 Statements thusiasm, routes such as the Genie (V,6) and go climbing! As I sat and wondered what The Meet also agreed the following: · Savage Slit (V,6) proving the most popular. else could possibly go wrong (earthquake? The prize for the longest day out went to 1. Climbers and mountaineers should have a basic freedom Meteor strike? The bar runs dry?), Anne to climb. This freedom includes the choice of climbing style the American team of Meg and Steve who Arran swung into action with an inspired which should be in keeping with established traditions and discovered that starting up Fallout Corner sensitivity to the environment. · programme of alternatives (VI,7) in the twilight Heinz Zak and Florian Schranz provided 2. Ascent reports should provide a complete and accurate means you are in for all description of the climbing style used and difficulty of the a seminar on high performance winter climb- sorts of fun. A full-on climb. ing. Lodge instructors George McEwan and plateau navigation night- 3. Climbing and mountaineering activities should be Steve Blagborough made full use of the out- carried out in a sustainable manner, primarily by adopting a mare ensued, and back door stone wall and indoor drytooling wall minimum impact approach, with the intention of preserving at the lodge we were in their practical training session. John mountain environments for future generations. poised over the panic Dunne and Anne Arran ran performance rock 4. Climbers and mountaineers should follow recognized button when they even- good practice codes such as the UIAA Kathmandu climbing classes at Inverness Wall, who tually staggered in. “Is Declaration. kindly allowed meet participants free ac- it always like this?” 5. Mountain activists should always show support for local cess. John Cousins chaired a grading com- Meg asked over her din- communities and rural economies, of which they are an parison session and discussed UIAA stand- integral part. ner of 70/- and crisps. ards for voluntary leaders, and a stellar pro- Several knowing smiles 6. Support should be given to programmes working for the gramme of lectures developed - John Dunne, conservation of mountain and wilderness areas. were her only reply. Kevin Thaw, Al Mullin, Ian Parnell, Andy Glenmore Lodge, 3 March 2001

www.thebmc.co.uk/world/intern/winmeet.htm www.scotlandonline.com/outdoors/climbing.cfm Christian Beckwith (USA) showing websites: www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/news/wintermeet.html good form in the pull up competition.

28664_Summit_Issue22new.p65 24 30/04/2001, 8:25 AM

EXPEDITIONS

EXPEDITIONS 2001

The line up of forthcoming Sail Greenland 2001 British Kun Lun Shan 2001 expeditions just seems to get After sailing from Oban to the Exploration of unclimbed and unnamed bigger and more diverse every Augpilaqtoq region, Andy White’s team peaks in the Kun Lun mountains, with the year, and 2001 will be no will be in place for some adventurous new primary aim of the first ascent of Pk 6786 exception with British teams routing in the Kanqikitsoq Fjord. and Pk6582. attempting ever more exciting East Greenland Glacier British W. Kokshaal – Too objectives in the remotest parts Surge Survey Exploration and first ascents in the of the world. Expeditions such as unvisited Kyokiar Range, Kyrgyzstan. Mick Fowler’s Kantega attempt, Geophysical research and associated an- tics to study the condition of this glacier, or Ian Parnell’s Totally Forakered British Charakusa Glacier which has not been surveyed before. experience prove that we are still Stephen Ashworth and friends will make leading the way. SMC Greenland expedition first ascents of the peaks surrounding this Stephen Reid leads his band of SMC mem- glacier in the K6 area, and explore possi- Counter this with trips such as the Rev. bers to grab the first ascent of the bilities for the ascent of this peak itself. Shepton’s Tilman-esque odyssey and you unclimbed South ridge of Dansketinde, British Solu Expedition 2001 have a real mixed bag of objectives, all of highest peak in the Staunings Alps, East First ascents of unclimbed peaks in the them worthy of support. It’s great to see Greenland. Secondary objective is a new Solu Glacier basin, Karakoram, Pakistan. some all women expeditions too, in a scene route on the South face of Sussex, a peak historically dominated by men. The popu- with only one previous ascent. British Greater Trango Expe- larity of Greenland continues, but it is by dition 2001 Greenland Winter Expedition no means the dominant destination. Alaska The first ascent of a new route in the re- Al Powell looks for the first ascent of the will be ringing to the sound of British voices, gion of the Norwegian pillar route on the North face of Tupilak 2246m in the and the Andes, Kyrgyzstan and the good East face of Greater Trango, which will be Schweizerland region of East Greenland. old Himalaya are still receiving plenty of the first British ascent of this 1400m face. attention. Lanchester Greenland 2001 Lakeland Quimsa Cruz 2001 An experienced team led by Jon White will British ‘Baroness’ expedition Attempts on unclimbed peaks around the set up camp in the Lindbergh Mountains of Matt Dickinson has assembled a strong Northern Rim of the cirque, based in the East Greenland and attempt new ascents on team of experienced climbers to make the valley East of the previously explored Khori 15 unclimbed peaks. Lucky people. Sur- first ascent of the West face of the Baron- Chuma. Time permitting; a visit to the rock rounding objectives will also be explored. ess, a major unclimbed wall. A film will be area North of Viloco will also be included. made of the ascent. British Kangerdlugssuaq Cymru Bolivia Apolobamba Fjord South Expedition 2001 Greenland 2001 – Tilman in Jim Quinn and others look for the first Ascents of virgin summits and explora- a new Millennium (year 2) British ascents of Canisaya 5706m and tion of the remote Southern approaches Rev. Bob Shepton continues his recrea- Casalala 5702m, as well as any others they to this unpronounceable Fjord. tion of Tilman’s explorations on the West can get their hands on. They will also ex- coast of Greenland, hoping to include first Scottish Southeast plore possibilities in the Cordillera ascents on rock, snow & ice and ski in Greenland Apolobamba, and make a GPS survey to addition to some very cold sailing. On a visit to Kong Frederik VI Kyst in improve mapping of the area. Southeast Greenland, attempts will be SmoG in Greenland – Slough Quitaraju SW face made on two unclimbed peaks identified Mountaineering Group Nick Bullock and Al Powell are after the in 1999 in addition to some exploration to First ascents of unclimbed peaks via climb- first ascent of the unclimbed SW face of the Northeast of this. Flora on the East- ing and ski routes in the Fraenkels Land Range. Quitaraju via new mixed lines. They will ern icecap will also be studied. also try to complete the unclimbed direct South Greenland 2001 finish to the Kranj route on the SE face of Matt Heason and friends are visiting Prins British Pik Dankova Expedition Alpamayo. Christien Sund, SW Greenland with some New routes and unclimbed peaks are pos- specific first ascents in mind on the unclimbed sibilities for Paul Knott and team in the granite spires and faces of this region. Western Kokshaal-too of Tien Shan.

28 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 28 24/04/2001, 1:21 PM British Female Bolivia Cor- Arganglas 2001 dillera Real Expedition As ever Chris Bonington explores uncharted This all female team plans to explore the territory, this year attempting the first ascent very remote central region of the Cordillera of the highest peak in the Arganglas group Real, and make the first ascent of Navado 6789m in addition to exploration of other pos- Ch’iyaruqu 6104m. Some members are on sibilities. a return visit after enjoying the country British Chakula Expedition last year. The first ascent of Chakula 6529m in the Llanberis Patagonia Northeast Ladakh area of the Indian Himalaya. An alpine style, two-man attempt of a Tagne 2001 new route on Cerro Torre. Nuff said…. Andrew Vine's team are taking advantage Scottish Cordillera Blanca of improved access to the Spiti region of The unclimbed East face of Santa Cruz Himchal Pradesh, India, to attempt the Norte 5829m will be getting some serious unclimbed 6404m Tagne which lies above attention from Jason Currie and Guy the Spiti river. Robertson in July. Sirunanch Glacier 2001 British Broken Tooth Expedi- A larger team under Colin Knowles is look- tion ing at ascents of Chalab 6160m and Tirsuli Geoff Hornby continues his string of ad- West 7035m in the Indian Garhwal. venturous trips with a crack at the first Reo Purgyil North Face ascent of the 900m East Pillar on the Bro- Expedition 2001 ken Tooth, Central Alaska. Ouch! Taking a year off from attempting Pumari Cathedral Mountains Chhish, Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Brian Davison visits the unvisited and Payne will this year be looking for the unnamed central glacial basin of the Ca- first ascent of this North Face in the thedral Mountains, Central Alaska. Geoff Kinnaur region of India. will join him (after breaking his tooth) for British Nampula Towers – exploration and new routes. Mozambique Alaskan Fake Glacier 2001 Exploration and attempted first free as- Exploration and first ascents of this prac- cents of granite towers in this remote area tically unvisited area to the East of Gla- to the South of Lake Malawi, apparently cier point (also referred to as Glacier One). only visited once before. Also to add new routes to the previously climbed towers The Totally Forakered Expe- of Mleme 1 & 3. dition Ian Parnell and Kenton Cool make an am- British Musamdam Penin- bitious trip to Alaska for three reasons – sula Expedition 2001 first ascents of the West face of Kahiltna It’s Geoff Hornby again! This time he’s Peak West, the Northwest buttress of off to Oman for some first ascents of rock Denali and the Southeast face of Foraker. pillars, specifically the West pillar of Jabal All this in one month?! Haqab. Alaska The Big Three 2001 They certainly are. Andy Parkin chases back-to-back new routes on McKinley, Foraker and Hunter and gives himself 45 days to do it!

Anglo-New Zealand Raksha BMC and MEF Funding Urai 2001 Exploration and climbing in the remote area of The BMC administers UK Sport funding for expedition the Seti valley in the far North-West of Nepal, grants. To meet the criteria for consideration for an award, with the prime objective being first ascents on teams must be attempting first ascents, or first British as- the six-headed peak Raksha Urai 6550m. cents in remote mountainous environments. The UK Sport British Kantega South Ridge excellence fund is an additional pot from which awards are Integral made to those expeditions that are felt to be of global signifi- For pre-launch details Mick Fowler’s expedition will attempt the cance, often allowing the expedition to operate at a very high of the most innovative first ascent of the South ridge of Kantega standard, giving the best chance of success. new concept in Outdoor in the Nepal Himalaya. He has been look- Carrying Equipment ing at this for over 10 years apparently! Applications for 2002 should be made to the Mount Ev- erest Foundation (MEF), which also provides substantial for a decade: Lobuche/Ama Dablam 2001 grant opportunities to exploratory expeditions from New Phone David Brady A strong British team led by Jules Cartwright Zealand. Contact Bill Ruthven, Gowrie, Cardwell Close, 44 (0) 1752 854400 are attempting the first ascents of the North Warton, Preston PR4 1SH or visit www.mef.org.uk for face direct on Lobuche 6100m and the NW further details and application forms. Closing dates are TRADE ENQUIRIES ridge direct on Ama Dablam 6800m in the Solu 31st August and 31st December. WELCOME Khumbu area of Nepal. Official Release: Friedrichshafen BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22August 2001 2 9

28664_Summit_Issue22new.p65 29 30/04/2001, 8:50 AM

ARENA

Management Committee 6 April 2001 AGM 7nd April Papers were circulated detailing the latest position on Mountain The Annual Report and Annual Accounts were adopted. The Audi- Services, the Access Trust, 2002 to 2005 Development Plan and tors were re-appointed and their report noted. The objectives in the Guidebook Committee and recommendations were put forward to 2002 to 2005 Development Plan were adopted. Gordon Adshead the Management Committee from the Organisational Structure Re- was thanked for completing his term as Honorary Treasurer. All the view Working Group. Briefing papers were circulated detailing the other officers were re-elected. Alex Lawrence was elected as Honor- various AGM Workshops and agendas for the AGM and National ary Treasurer. A motion that the per member subscription fee for Open Forum. Four new clubs were accepted for membership and individual members (currently £18.00) should be £19.50 and the per recommendations from the recent HCAP inquiry were reported. member subscription fee for members of affiliated clubs (currently The Management Committee agreed to the establishment of a new £4.25) should be £5.25 was adopted. The second resolution that “as Access Trust and agreed to accept the Mountain Services Frame- part of the BMC’s organisational review a new identity and struc- work document in principle. The Management Committee instructed ture in Wales should be created to represent climbers, hill walkers and the President and a small working group of Directors and Senior mountaineers within a co-ordinated UK framework” was also adopted. Officers to review the current situation in the Guidebook Commit- tee. The next Management Committee meeting is on 27 June 2001 at National Open Forum 7 April 2001 the BMC Office. The agenda and papers for the Management The National Open Forum followed the AGM. Topics discussed meeting will be circulated on 1 June 2001 in time for the next round included: Re-election of officers, AGM 2002, youth training, in- of Area meetings. Summit 22 will be published in early May. surance and guidebooks. Members asked questions on the above and raised other issues from the floor. Full minutes of the AGM and National Open Forum are available from the BMC office and Area Meeting calendar the web site (www.thebmc.co.uk).

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Postcode ...... Please send me a copy of the Tel Nº ...... BMC Insurance Guide BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22Return to: British Mountaineering Council, 177–179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB 3 3 Alternatively request your copy by phone, fax or E-mail: Tel: 0161 445 4747 Fax: 0161 445 4500 E-mail: [email protected]

28664_Summit_Issue22new.p65 33 30/04/2001, 8:31 AM COMPETITIONS BICC’01 SEASON OVERVIEW Would the Troll BICC 2001 be a Space Odyssey? Not quite but the climbing was out of this world!

season. Karin had a disappointing round, Senior Male failing to make the final, and Lucy, despite a What would happen in the Senior Male couple of moments low down was the only category? Would twice runner up Chris one to top the final. Cubitt finally win, or would Steve So going into the final round at the Leeds McClure once more be invincible? Round Wall it was neck and neck between Karin one made us all think again as Gareth Parry and Lucy. Excellent route setting had Anne pulled off a very determined victory, and Arran and Abigail hitting the finishing jug, Steve finished 3rd behind Adam Dewhurst. but only Lucy could hold it and clip the Wales however was different, Steve eas- belay. Result - a third title for Lucy. ily beating Gareth into second, and ‘Big’ Guy Dixon filling the third podium spot. Junior Male Bristol saw a reversal of fortunes, Gaz screamed and grunted his way to 1st with The Junior Male category saw some new Chris and Adam gaining 2nd and 3rd, whilst faces making it to the podium. During Senior Female Steve could only manage fourth after his round 1 Stewart Watson showed the form foot slipped. The Foundry proved just With reigning senior female champion that saw him take the S7 British Bouldering how open this year’s male category actu- Claire Murphy absent to concentrate on title at the end of last season, getting an ally is - Chris took the victory from Steve bouldering, and no Lucy Creamer it excellent second to the relatively un- with Gareth scraping into 7th place, and looked likely that we’d have a new name known Jamie Cassidy. Then at round 2 in the showdown at Leeds was nicely set on the trophy. After the first round at the Wales, Jamie easily out qualified the rest up. Unfortunately Steve was on his way Awesome Walls in Liverpool it looked as and looked set for a second victory but a to China to take part in a BMC exchange, if that name might be Karin Magog, who nasty move on the lip of the high roof so it was down to Chris and Gaz. took victory from Alison Martindale by dispatched him, with only Ian Hollows Gareth was the first out, and got to the the narrowest of margins. The Welsh In- spotting the cunning footwork required half height rest looking comfortable but ternational Climbing Centre was the host to gain access to the headwall. he couldn’t suss out the footwork neces- for round 2, and for the first time ever Round 3 in Bristol saw the return to form sary for progress, and was to have an anx- there were more women than men, great of Paul Smitton, who had been suffering ious wait while the others climbed. When to see such a level of interest from our from 'flu at the first two rounds. The Foun- Chris emerged, the crowd knew he had to female climbers. Unfortunately for Karin dry saw Paul narrow the gap over Jamie win to take the title. He cruised up to one of those women was Lucy, who with another win, and a second went to where Gaz fell, then it was backwards and wasn’t slow in reminding people why she reigning champ Tom Lawrence. Going into forwards a few times before a hand swap has twice been champion. First place to the final this category was even more open saw him to the top. Gaz’s fingernails were Lucy, Karin second with junior team with Cassidy, Smitton and Watson all down to the bone by now, and it all hinged member Abigail Egan coming third im- within striking distance of the title. Once th on Adam Dewhurst. Adam had qualified proving on her excellent 9 place in last more the route setters surpassed them- in first place so if he topped out he’d win year's European Youth Cup. selves, Stu got to the penultimate hold be- the round and therefore Gaz would be The third round was in Bristol, where fore his elbows started pointing upwards. champion, but if he fell Chris was champ. the relatively short wall means that the Paul hit the finishing jug, could he hold it? Adam struggled past where Gaz fell but routes are “in yer face” from the start. NO. Jamie was soon in the same position was obviously in trouble and two moves The qualifier saw Lucy and Alison both as Paul, wind up for the slap, could he hold later was earthbound as a delighted Chris at the top, always worrying for the route it? YES, and Jamie was the new champion. setters, but in the final it was again Lucy Cubbit took the title. who stood on the winner’s podium, with Junior Female Karin second So another TROLL BICC is done and and Abigail This was the one that went to form. dusted, an excellent series with outstand- third. The Jemma Powell, reigning champion, domi- ing performances from the climbers. The Foundry in nated the first three rounds, with Emma BMC would like to thank all of the volun- Sheffield Twyford and Sadie Renwick finishing sec- teer helpers without whom these events played host ond and third respectively. Mind you the would not happen. Also a massive thanks to the fourth gap was narrowing compared with last to the host venues and the sponsors espe- round. Best year and the apple cart wobbled a bit at cially Troll but not forgetting Entre-Prises, performance The Foundry with Jemma failing to suss Rock Designs, High Mountain Sports and here was out the sequence on the steep arete, On the Edge. Next year will see some for- from former whilst Sadie squeezed out a couple of ex- mat changes but the quality of the per- champion tra moves to take her first Troll BICC formances will just keep getting better. Anne Arran, victory. The Leeds event produced another who got her excellent performance from Sadie, a sec- Full results and rankings are first podium ond place to take her to second overall, available at www.thebmc.co.uk place of the but it was Jemma who triumphed again, retaining her title in the process.

(CLOCKWISE) Sadie Renwick powering her way to her first BICC victory. Lucinda Hughes in the female final. 34 Stewart Watson looking relaxed in the junior male final. Credit: AlexBMC Messenger SUMMIT - ISSUE 22

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 34 24/04/2001, 1:30 PM COMPETITIONS British Bouldering Championships

The S7 BBC ’01 moved from its Sheffield home to Rock City in Hull and as ever proved to be a brilliant event. Over 80 competitors turned up to try a variety of problems from horrendously steep caves to vertical stuff on disgusting slopers. The qualifiers consisted of 12 problems, 3 had all completed four problems. Lucy came attempts with no isolation, all in 3 hours. out the winner as she had flashed all four; Tactics were different. Claire Murphy, Claire was second with Katherine third on reigning champ, shadowed her perceived countback. rival, Lucy Creamer, to make sure she did In the senior male final Malcolm had al- just enough to qualify in first place with- ready won before he tried the problem. His out wasting too many of those valuable first try saw his hands round the roof, but reserves. Malcolm Smith’s tactics were without his feet hooking the lip it had to be even simpler, being so strong that even the too much even for him, and it was. Shock hardest problems didn’t take too much out horror Malc had fallen off - you knew it of you! But in the end the qualifiers didn’t was hard. Second go he sorted his feet out produce too many surprises, and the scene and was soon at the top. Third title in a was set for the finals. row for Malcolm, when he’s on form he’s The finals were different, 5 problems on- in a different class. sight in a set sequence, and as many at- Overall an excellent event at Rock City, tempts as you wanted within a set time well supported by S7, Lowe Alpine, On limit. Problems were on the horrendously The Edge, Red Chili and Rock Designs. steep cellar board that had appeared espe- Hopefully some of the form shown in Hull cially for the occasion, the Cave, and the can be transferred to the NIA in Birming- wall. The juniors climbed first, and when ham on 7/8 December when the world’s the results were sorted we had two new best boulderers will be clambering all over junior champions, Emma Twyford and Paul the 3 Entre-Prises boulders that will be there Smitton for the final round of the UIAA Bouldering In the senior female final the results were World Cup. See you all there. Ian Bitcon looking strong in the final of the very close; Claire Murphy, Lucy Creamer, For full results of the S7 British S7 British Bouldering Championships. Ian Katherine Schirrmacher and Jo Gordon Bouldering Series, see www.thebmc.co.uk finished 7th overall. Credit: John Arran

The Entre-Prises BMC Festival of Climbing

OUTDOOR LIVE UIAA Climbing Championships Film and lecture series World Bouldering Cup Retail and trade show European Youth Cup Skills seminars International leading event Travel workshops Public dyno competition Photography showcase Junior climbing festival Mountain heritage show Public bouldering challenge ‘Come and try it’ walls

7–9 December 2001 MAKE A DATE IN YOUR DIARY

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22 3 5

28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 35 24/04/2001, 1:31 PM

alpine adventures!

A first trip to the Alps can be an exciting and rewarding new experience, and with a little forethought and preparation you can maximise your chances of success. Tim Neill, an Aspirant Guide and Plas y Brenin Instructor shares some hints and tips for those with higher things in mind this summer.

The Alps are often seen as a logical progression from the Scottish Winter and our longer scrambles – they are, so Scotland provides ideal training for a first trip. These are great environments for gaining fitness, building up the essential skills of moving quickly and carefully when you can, good route choice and time keeping. Add to this the opportunity to get to know your part- ner, so that decisions and judgements can be made on a balanced opinion and you’ve got a recipe for success; toss in some experience of journeying at night, and you’re set. And now with the summer ahead, why not start planning and laying the foundations now? (CLOCKWISE) Summit of the Matterhorn The first things you’ll notice about the Alps is that 4476m. Credit: Tom Povey. Traverse near everything’s higher and further away than you’re used the summit of Weissmies 4023m. The to, but this is not the only difference – this is a different dramatic summit ridge of Mt Blanc du environment, with a few new hazards to grapple with. Tacul 4248m. North ridge of Zinal So what can you expect to encounter? Rothorn 4220m. Credits: Payne

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snug as you can. These techniques are made clear in the many textbooks available (see book list), the article on page 14, or through alpine preparation weekends available at Plas y Brenin. Obviously crevasse avoidance in the first place is better than rescuing your partner, so concentrating on route finding skills and observing your route ahead should allow you to avoid heav- ily crevassed areas. Individual slots can be bypassed or crossed carefully at right angles. If it looks really dodgy don’t both go to the edge to look - check there is no alternative, then improvise a belay and pitch it. You can also do this to negotiate a steep bergschrund (the gap between the crag and the glacier). If your partner is jumping away from you make sure to give him enough slack, and if he's leaping towards you then reel him in. Another danger is seracs. There are few popular big mountains in the Alps where you won’t spend some portion of the ascent and descent under the threat of serac fall. Move quickly and carefully under them, it’s not the place to stop for a snack. Try and seek local advice about your chosen route, you may find out that the once benign seracs above an old classic route have now evolved into tottering jenga stacks. Finally, and very importantly, remember all things snowy and glacial deteriorate as the day warms up causing icefall, rock fall and softening snow bridges over crevasses etc. Keep to the advised timetable and if you find yourself moving too slowly, consider turning back while it’s still safe. Travelling over glaciated ground in the summer can be hot work - don’t forget sun protection, use high factor (SPF 25+) sun block, glasses and maybe even a sun hat. Remember that dark coloured clothing and helmets will absorb more heat, but how- ever hot it gets, protect yourself from the skin-shredding conse- Rocky scrambing near the top of the Aiguille de Tour quences of a slip by wearing long sleeves, trousers and gloves. Don’t worry about appearances: the fashion police are usually Rocky Scrambles absent! Fitting anti-balling plates to your crampons will also Rocky sections are the same wherever you are in the world; greatly ease moving on softer snow. there’s just more of it and a bit more loose stuff due to the freeze/ thaw. There’s also infinitely more opportunity to get lost, but Huts don’t worry, if you can easily follow a complicated scramble or Another new discovery for the novice alpinist is the world of long rock climb here then you’ll probably be okay. Mountain Huts or Refuges. Staying in these can add to the whole experience, easing the burden of the approach, giving an oppor- Altitude tunity for a decent meal and plenty of important rehydrating for Altitude is one of the major differences, above 3000m everyone is the climb ahead. The guardians also have a wealth of local knowl- prone to altitude related ailments, although how you will cope can edge about your chosen itinerary or routes you may choose in be a lottery. So, have a good acclimatisation programme, and fa- the future. Of course it will cost you, but this is often discounted miliarise yourself with the common symptoms and treatment. if you have a reciprocal rights card from the BMC or most Al- Visit the Mountain Medicine section of the BMC website, or get pine Clubs. Don’t let this cost put you off, as it’s still probably hold of “The High Altitude Medicine Handbook” – by Pollard cheaper than a night in the bar downtown. Often you’ll need to and Murdoch (also available from the BMC online shop). book your night in the hut by phoning first (numbers normally in your guidebook) and this could give you a chance to suss out the Glaciers hut rules such as whether you can cook your own meals etc. If however, you’re on a tighter budget, a “total” experience type, Your awareness of avalanche and cornice hazards from Scotland or just a big snorer there’s always bivouacking. Some mountains will be helpful, but in the Alps you’ll need another skill to add to may even be out of the way of a hut necessitating it anyway. your armoury – the art of moving swiftly, yet safely over glaci- Obviously you’ll have to carry extra gear and plan ahead. This ated terrain. The dry part of a glacier (free of snow cover) will gear should be kept to a “just” comfortable minimum as carrying obviously be easier to move on, giving a more predictable sur- more will compromise speed, time taken, fitness and consequently face. Route finding can be more obvious, and obstacles such as safety. You may be returning via the same route so a good idea crevasses are visible. Given that the area of a dry glacier is safe might be to cache your heavy gear for then. Be organised and from other surrounding objective dangers (i.e. rock or icefall prepared, don’t doss next to the hut and as always in the moun- from above) it can be a great classroom for reminding yourself of tains, never leave any mess or rubbish. There can be nothing worse rusty ice-craft skills and practising the new ones you’ll need like than a bad bivi, but conversely nothing quite like a great one. moving roped up, and crevasse rescue and hoisting. The higher part of the glacier, which will be partially or totally snow covered is the wet glacier. These hold a wealth of dangers The Valley and should always be treated with respect. Good advice is to be Remember also that a good chunk of your trip will be spent in always roped to your partner and to have your slings, prusiks the valley, resting up, planning or sitting out poor weather. Look and belay improvising gear to hand should your mate take a dive after yourself during that time so that you’re as fit as you can be into the white room. Remember any slack between you might for your trip ahead. Camping is usually the cheapest option and catapult you there too, so don’t be impatient; just keep it as it is readily available in all alpine valleys on organised campsites, Don't forget: Insurance online at www.thebmc.co.uk 38 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22

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(wild camping is usually banned). The next Switzerland? cheapest alternatives are Gites or Dortoirs, Elsewhere, Switzerland has a lot to offer with masses of high moun- equivalent to our bunkhouses. These are well tains via relatively modest routes. Arolla, situated above Sion in the run with all mod cons and often somewhere to Rhone valley is a popular venue for many alpinists in the Pennine store gear while you’re in the mountains. or Valais Alps. A good hut system gives access to fantastic intro- You’ll find useful information about poten- ductory peaks like the Pigne d’Arolla, La Luette or the Pointe de tial valley bases in guidebook forewords. All Vouasson. All between 3500 – 3750m, these peaks are found in the the other information in there concerning Valais West guidebook. The other section in this book concerning routes, hut approaches, cragging etc. is often the Moiry Valley could also give you a few ideas, such as the designed to be followed with the use of the popular Pigue de la Le or the Bouquetins traverse. The new Valais local maps. You can buy maps from our better Alps East volume also suggests many more suitable itineraries es- Almagellerhutte with climbing shops, which will help your plan- pecially the Saas Peaks, provided you’ve acclimatised on some of the Dom group in ning. It’ll also give you time to get them lami- the mountains previously mentioned. Many of these alpine giants background. nated (it rains in the Alps too!). However if are also surprisingly accessible from lifts and their super efficient you can’t get them here, don’t worry, they’re huts, so it’s no surprise that this area is a popular venue for those available everywhere in the Alps. bagging 4000-ers. Do make use of the local tourist or guide’s office. These are very useful sources of information on accommodation, local Insurance telepheriques, mountain railways and the all-important weather Bolting is not always bad. Reasonable bolting on Insurance is highly recommended for the Alps, since rescue is not Le Ticket, forecast.Peigne Slabs, Unless Chamonix. you’re in Chamonix Photo: Payne. or Zermatt you’ll have to translate this, so make sure you understand a few key phrases, free, unlike the UK. Although an E-111 form will cover normal especially “grand beau temps”. For those with web access, the health care, rescue and repatriation are not included. Don't risk it. net can provide some good forecasts too, though rarely as de- tailed as those on offer at the guides office. Further Reading Handbook of Climbing, Fyffe and Peter, BMC Alpine Experience So where to go? Video & Pack, BMC Mountain Medicine Information Sheets. All The Alps extends from Slovenia in the east to the Peaks of the available at www.thebmc.co.uk Ecrins and Maritime Alps in Southern France, and contains a wealth of contrasting destinations. Contacts Insurance - the BMC - apply online at www.thebmc.co.uk Chamonix? For a day with a guide contact BAMG on 01690 720386 Chamonix Mont Blanc is a popular destination for many and Plas y Brenin also run preparation weekends - 01690 720 214 rightly so. Well documented and easily accessible, with quick and easy access to the mountains at the hint of a good forecast. However. it is more of a destination for experienced mountain- eers, those seeking Alpine rock climbing, or increasingly com- CICERONE GUIDE BOOKS monly, those who just like to party and talk about it. NEW Ecrins? walks A more obvious choice for a first time in the French Alps and would be the Ecrins. Much more mellow, normally better weather and generally much less busy except popular and climbs guided peaks like the Barre des Ecrins, Dome de Neige or Mt. Pelvoux. Also the distinct lack of telepheriques (read: big Europe walk-ins!) and laid back valley bases give a more rounded mountain experience. The chain of peaks on the north side of the glacier Blanc (Mt. Agneaux to the Roche Faurio) provide great climbs by their easier routes, neither too long nor too objectively threatened. A number of them could easily be climbed reliable in a trip based at either the Glacier Blanc or Ecrins hut (al- practical though busy main season). Also approachable from La Berarde or Ailefroid is the standard route of Pic Coolidge, a good intro- well illustrated ductory peak in a wild and inspiring setting, and like the peaks Trekking informative mentioned previously, this would give you a great grounding in value for money using a hut, varied route finding, snow and rock. the Alps

Essential Equipment (For a one-day glacial climb) www.cicerone.co.uk Light and durable waterproofs Helmet FREE catalogue Ice axes, crampons Sun protection for over 280 guides Gloves and spares Food and drink Harness Map, guidebook Tel 01539 562069 2 slings with krabs Compass, altimeter Fax 01539 563417 2 prusik loops, 2 locking krabs Head torch and fresh battery 2 ice screws Spare clothing and bivi bag Available from all good outdoor shops and bookshops Cicerone Press, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe, Cumbria LA7 7PY Plus one rope and first aid kit between you. This should all fit comfortably in your sack with hopefully no room left to be filled with extra stuff that’d just slow you down! EXPLORE THE WORLD

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28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 39 24/04/2001, 1:34 PM FORUM COUNTING THE COST For many people Foot & Mouth means more than just a few cancelled weekends. The cost to outdoor centres, shops, and other businesses is growing. Here are just a few personal perspectives of the current crisis.

There was a real sense of optimism in the Llanberis business community before all this started, but that confidence to invest has been swept away. Despite the harshness of the situation, we are determined to fight our way through these hard times and keep developing Llanberis as an exciting and friendly destination for those with a passion for the outdoors.

The Outdoor Centre By George McEwan, Glenmore Lodge I can still remember it vividly. Friday the 23rd February. The Scottish Performance Winter Climbing Seminar was due to kick off that evening. My boss, Tim Walker, Principal of Glenmore The Company Lodge, came up to me and said that we may have to cancel due to By Dick Turnbull, owner of Outside Foot and Mouth. Initially I thought it was a wind up, but the Business is bad! Not just bad but really bad! And what’s more, seminar went ahead, athough we took what precautions we felt it’s not my fault! Traditionally you’d think that was a farmer were appropriate – cleaning and disinfecting boots etc prior to speaking. Well today it’s the location based outdoor equipment going out on the hill . Yet events escalated very quickly to a level industry bemoaning its fate. Of course it’s not completely true out of our control. as good businesses are able to withstand periods of poor trading. On the following Wednesday when I came back off the hill How long they can go on depends on how well they have run whilst on the BMC International Climbing Meet, the news all of their businesses in the past. We’ve been going for nearly 15 years us had been half expecting awaited us. The hill is closed. That and we have worked hard to ensure that our business is strong by evening, as Roger Payne outlined why we were being asked not judging our pricing correctly, giving good service and by putting to go on the hills of Scotland, I noticed the same expression of all the profit back into the business. That, and the support of our surprise and disbelief on the visiting foreign climbers faces as the customers, the local bank and our suppliers in the outdoor trade reality of what was being said sank in. is what will give us the chance to survive and save our employees The immediate reaction from the mountaineering world was and our own livelihoods. very positive and supportive of the farmers' plight - despite the Make no mistake this crisis will ruin some people - and all of superb weather and excellent conditions, the climbers stayed off us if it goes on long enough. Now is the time when communities the hill. However, for many outdoor instructors and guides, a have to act together to ensure everyone gets through. After this, much worse consequence was looming. The winter is the busiest we will need a new logic to correct the balance of the rural economy, time for instructing, and most of us are self-employed freelanc- as what is happening today makes no sense to man or beast. ers. Of course, this means that if you don’t work, you don’t get paid and with the hills closed to the public, course providers The Shop were cancelling all their winter courses and the demand for guided By Simon Panton, Manager, Outside, Llanberis climbs had tailed off to nothing. By Thursday morning a lot of The foot and mouth crisis has hit our business hard. Whilst a outdoor instructors were looking at no money coming into their number of crags have been opened as a result of pressure from bank account for the foreseeable future, with this prospect the outdoor industry and the climbing community, the general stretching well into the summer and beyond. There is also a access restrictions to the hills has dramatically reduced the number knock on affect. High street retailers suddenly find that they of visitors to the area. We are currently facing a 70% reduction in have no one to sell their gear to. If the retailers are not selling gear trade, and I have had to cut our staffing levels by a third. Obvi- then there is no reason to order it from the manufacturers, so ously the immediate impact on the local economy is severe, but they find their orders being cancelled and so it goes on, my feeling is that the future prospects for the area are even bunkhouses, B & Bs, hotels etc etc. bleaker. Smaller, independent businesses will certainly go bust, Limited access has now been restored with restrictions such as and those that do survive will be weighed down with excessive agreed access points, use of disinfectant baths etc. so we are able debt for many years to come.

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28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 40 24/04/2001, 1:35 PM to continue at least some of our normal programme of activities. groups; Alun rightly said that this has illustrated the sheer amount However, with no forthcoming financial aid packages or support of money that walkers and mountaineers bring into rural commu- from the government on the horizon, by the end of this foot and nities. As I have said, the situation is under review. The restric- mouth outbreak it will not just be the farming industry that has tions are in place because it is not yet possible to say with confi- been badly affected, but the professional outdoor world as well. dence that the disease has been contained within certain areas. As it is too early to say what has happened with regard to the disease The Climber and where it is, the restrictions must remain for the time being. By Martin Crocker The restrictions will be lifted when veterinary advice states that it In addition to media reports and the site controls/notices estab- is safe to do so. However, that time has not yet come. lished in the area, I see (as a matter of course in my job) what might be described as fairly typical foot and mouth policy and BMC Access and Conservation Officer operational responses from an ‘Infected Area’ County Council. By Clare Bond From a health professional perspective, it is clear to me that the The Foot and Mouth outbreak began on Burnside farm, Heddon- national and local reaction, evidenced by access controls, is woe- on-the-Wall, Northumberland, in mid February, and the rest fully unsatisfactory, primarily because: well…I’m sure you all know what happened next. It was a busy week in the BMC office; the first Monday was chaos, constant 1. It is not based upon risk-assessment principles (i.e. risk of a phone calls and no information to give anyone. A month later it human activity transmitting disease); e.g. theoretical restrictions would be easy to say that there has been no progress; the phones upon Avon Gorge access when there is no local evidence of wild are still ringing and emails continue to pour in. However, things deer; theoretical restriction on Brean Down when bouldering and have definitely moved on. There is now a more co-ordinated and ‘lower-off climbs’ can be accessed via beach at virtually all times. positive response, with concerted moves towards strategies and away from the fire fighting that occurred in the first week or so. 2. It is not based upon site-specific evaluations (though - at long This should hopefully mean that the frustrated among you can last - it looks as though the obvious is dawning upon the politi- get out and enjoy your sport and those that rely on the country- cians). side and rural tourism can resume their livelihoods. For many it has been an exercise in restraint, but the impact has 3. It is based upon the legislative ease of exercising control (rather been much greater for those who earn their living from the out- than combating risk) i.e. blanket closure of all rights of way. door trade. The facts and figures that we received in the office after an informal request for information about job losses and 4. It is inequitable (some things can go on, some cannot) e.g. economic impacts were quite staggering. Not only for the sums Leigh Woods opposite Avon Gorge is closed, yet there are a involved but for the broad range of the impact, from gear shops whole load of forestry workers tree-felling at the current time; to individual instructors, one-man cafes all the way up to the non-essential roadworks in ‘Infected Areas’ with workers within National Mountaineering Centres. spitting distance of sheep; sheep on country roads; Bath and I have also received much praise on behalf of climbers, hill West Festival etc. etc. walkers and mountaineers who have respected access restric- tions from farmers, environmental and statutory bodies alike. 5. It does not incorporate, strategically, the option of access with Over the past few weeks we have been working with these precautions (disinfection). bodies to open up access to ‘low risk’ areas. I only hope that by the time you read this, there will be many more places in the The short-term (i.e. sub-one month) expectation of society to country open for you all to enjoy this summer. Thanks to all of keep away altogether from the real countryside may not have you who’ve helped in any way. been an unreasonable initial governmental response. In the longer term however, without a risk-of-transmission rationale to clo- The National Park sure, this policy degenerates to propaganda. North York Moors Tony Blair’s declaration, this week, that people ‘should go The North York Moors National Park Authority is calling for back to the countryside, but stay away from livestock’ is an extra vigilance in the wake of a new outbreak in the north east of opportunity for climbers to begin restoring access to many cliffs the Park. MAFF has declared an Infected Area in a 10km radius across the country, working on a site-by-site basis and making around the confirmed case. full use of local knowledge. Then the outdoor world can perhaps The Authority is very concerned about this development and begin to recover from the effects of this outbreak. is worried about the threat to farming livelihoods in the North York Moors and the knock-on effects in the tourism industry. The National Assembly for Wales The Authority is acting to protect the farming community and Assembly Member Alun Pugh the unique landscapes they maintain and to promote the places "I am glad that Carwyn Jones accepts that this crisis has demon- where it is safe for people to visit. strated the huge contribution made by walkers, climbers and Communities within the Infected Area are being assisted with mountain bikers to the rural economy. There have been some disinfection points and temporary cattle grids. The Authority is irresponsible walkers and one or two irresponsible farmers. How- also considering separating ‘hefted’ hill flocks. These additional ever, will you join me in congratulating the Rambler’s Associa- measures will help minimise the spread of the disease. The Au- tion and the British Mountaineering Council for the leadership thority is keen to stress that people can still enjoy the special and positive advice that they have given to their members? Will qualities of the North York Moors - providing they respect the you give an assurance that restrictions on access will be dropped precautionary measures in place. Visitors and locals are being the second it is safe to do so?" kept up to date with the latest developments through the local and regional Tourist Information Centres, Village Information Carwyn Jones (Assembly Member) Points (in Grosmont, Goathland, Thornton le Dale, Hutton le "I echo those comments. I was impressed that rambling and moun- Hole and Rosedale Abbey) as well as the two National Park taineering groups stated almost immediately that they would not Centres. Go to: www.northyorkmoors-npa.gov.uk for more walk or climb, and that was certainly the case in my constitu- details. ency. I welcome the responsibility shown by these organised

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BRIEFING The Science behind Climbing and Huts and guidebook thanks and Mountaineering changes The 2nd International Conference on Science & Technology in Fern Levy has recently stood down as Chair of the Hut Co- Climbing and Mountaineering is being held at the University of ordination and Advisory Panel, and Adge Last and Andrew Woods Leeds, 3rd-5th April 2002. Conference themes will include a vari- have stood down as the Chair and Secretary of the Guidebook ety of topics from textiles, biomechanics, and electronics, to Committee. The Management Committee thanks all three of them equipment design and sports injury. The conference will take for their hard work and support in their different areas. The huts place over three days with a number of keynotes from invited programme has moved on a pace in recent years with some excel- international speakers and scientific presentations as appropri- lent seminars and a focus on equal access and community issues; ate. Deadline for submission of abstracts is 1st October 2001. For and the guidebook committee has had a challenging year coping more details email [email protected], or see with pressures because of issues surrounding the new Stanage www.leeds.ac.uk/sports_science/index.html guidebook. Iain McCallum is the acting chair of HCAP but in accordance Mountain rescue weekend courses with open procedures the Management Committee invites suit- ably experienced members to put themselves forward if they are How much does it cost to run a Mountain Rescue Team? How interested in this position. For the guidebook programme the many Teams are there in the Lake District? How do you train a Management Committee has set up a small executive working Search Dog? How do you join a Rescue Team? What does it take group to review the situation and restructure the committee. to be a member of a lifeboat? Have you seen a lifeboat launched? Anyone interested in offering support to these two (or any other) How many crewmembers are there on a Sea King Helicopter? If specialist programmes, or commenting on the guidebook pro- you want to know any of the above answers, then why don’t you gramme and committee structure is encouraged to get in contact book onto the Sea and Mountain Rescue Weekend course at with [email protected] who can provide additional details. Buttermere Youth Hostel? Four Voluntary Wardens Derek Lyon, Chris Abbot, Paul Browne and Derek Tunstall are running this course on Friday 28 September to Sunday 30 September 2001. The Entre-Prises and BMC Cost for the weekend is £85.00. Transport on the course included. Festival of Climbing Don't forget this date for your diary! The Entre-Prises and BMC Range West briefing dates Festival of Climbing is taking place on 7-9th December 2001, at The briefing dates for 2001 are: the National Indoor Arena in Birmingham. This is the biggest Thurs 14 June, 7.45pm, The Warehouse, Gloucester. event in the UK for climbers, hillwalkers, and mountaineers. Sat 30 June, 6.45pm, Castlemartin Range, Pembrokeshire. Where else can you watch top class climbers, enjoy leading lec- Sat 28 July, 6.45pm, Castlemartin Range, Pembrokeshire. turers, and snap up some pre-Christmas bargains all under one roof? Tickets will be on sale soon - check adverts for details.

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LAST THOUGHTS

HIDDEN SECRETS corrosion of sea cliff pegs What you see is often not what you get. David Hillebrandt illustrates why you should take in-situ gear with a pinch of salt.

Nick Hancock climbing at Great Zawn, Bosigran. Being wise he has backed up the in-situ peg with plenty of gear! Credit: Turnbull.

There is nothing like a friend’s of pressures, loads, oxidation, electro chemi- death to concentrate the mind. cal reactions, salt action and solvents but In 1974 Dave had enjoyed a the result was the same. Dave was dead. successful first alpine season and Thirty years on I have climbed on sea TECHNICAL NOTE disappeared to Cornwall to cliffs from Hoy to Lands End, been held indulge himself on secure sun by rusty pegs on Gogarth, abseiled off sea David highlights the need for real care when drenched granite prior to stacks and watched pegs crumble to the relying on any in-situ equipment - pegs, returning to medical school. He touch at Swanage and Gower. I have no slings, nuts, and even bolts. When discuss- never did start the term. ethical qualms about replacing in situ pegs ing pegs he makes an important point about on my local Culm Coast and over the last the hidden nature of much of the corrosion. I still remember chatting to his father in ten years have made a collection of those At the 1999 Technical Conference Pit London and watching him struggling to that I have removed. Some of those shown Schubert (President of the UIAA Safety come to terms with his son’s death. He are from abseil anchors, some from main Commission) showed a selection of slides showed me the equipment that the coroner belays and some key pegs protecting po- portraying in situ pegs, which looked su- had returned to the family. Blood stained tential ground falls. perficially secure, and in good condition. helmet, harness and rope and there, still You do not need a science degree to see When asked none of the relatively expert clipped in place, the shattered peg. how this in-situ gear has corroded a few audience were able to tell which were good Of course, like all accidents there was centimetres inside the placement crack. and which were bad. Pit then showed the not one simple reason. It was not simply Just out of sight! post extraction pictures. All the pegs were Dave’s reliance on an old rusty peg at the Enjoy our sea cliff climbing heritage, re- fatally corroded to within a few mm of the Seaward end of Bosigran. It was a question spect local ethics, use natural protection, surface; none would have held. of judgement, of pushing one’s grade in an back up in situ gear where possible but do This is a salutary lesson and one to be unfamiliar area, of proving something, of not be afraid to be seen carrying a peg remembered on sea cliffs and in the moun- an under graded HVS (now E3), lack of hammer and replacement pegs if the guide tains where the cost of backing up is infi- local knowledge and lack of experience. A book mentions in situ gear of unknown nitely less that of getting it wrong. Metallurgist may have phrased it in terms age. It’s worth the cost. (ALL PEGS) All these pegs are part of David Hillebrandt's thought provoking collection. Some came from established belays, others from crucial placements. None would have held a fall. Credit: Hillebrandt. 52 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22

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