Never-Ending Story Climber Or Leech? Crevasse Rescue Foot & Mouth
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28664_Cover 24/4/01 2:22 pm Page 1 ISSUE 22 - SUMMER 2001 £2.50 Never-Ending Story National Mountaineering Exhibition Climber Or Leech? The New Disease Crevasse Rescue Now Get Out Of That! Foot & Mouth After The Dust Settles BREATHABLE FABRICS ALPINE ADVENTURES TROLL BICC ’’0101 SEA CLIFF PEGS • WINTER MEET • EXPEDITIONS 2001 • RURAL DEVELOPMENT FOREWORD... SUMMITS OF DESIRE pparently Cerro Torre is the Marilyn Munroe mountain; that is according Ato Andy Kirkpatrick. He said so in his talk at the recent interna- tional winter climbing seminar and meet hosted by the BMC and MCofS at Glenmore Lodge. Andy was talking about desire and aiming for what seems to be the most unattainable objec- tive. After seeing all those photographs of such an attractive but inaccessible looking peak I think I understood the comparison Andy was making to the ‘goddess of glamour’. During another talk Rafael Jensen from Sweden made a very press- ing point about the need to make honest and full reports about ascents. Rafael had in mind some claims about ascents on K2 and Everest, but the point related well to Cerro Torre and the scepti- cism of Maestri’s infamous ‘compressor’ bolt route with the death of Tony Egger during the descent. Later, discussing some of the tactics Looking for Marilyn? Members of the international winter meet and seminar that was used on Patagonia’s summit of desire, an enthu- supported by UK Sport, Mountain Equipment, Karrimor, Mountain Technology, Highland siastic Leo Houlding and Stephen Koch from Council and Moray, Badenoch & Strathspey Enterprise. America considered the possibility of free climb- ing Maestri’s compressor route and removing the bolts. They joked about leaving the compressor, which still in litigation, criminal liability, and insurance could create hangs high on the wall, as a monument to Maestri’s tactics and a situation like permanent FMD restrictions (who said it high point. Now what a scheme that would be: a bold statement couldn’t get any worse?). It has been invaluable that all about ethics, truth, and respect for such an awesome peak. those volunteer supporters and access representatives have been busy pressing the case locally whenever practicable At least three other truths manifested themselves during the for the lifting of FMD access restrictions. But it is also week long international gathering. Firstly, that freedom is the important that we create awareness and understanding most important thing in life; secondly, that by being positive about the normal risks of climbing and hill walking. As the you can overcome problems and have fun; and thirdly, that climb- post FMD debate progresses on the future of agriculture ers and hill walkers enjoying their freedom is good for the moun- and the rural economy we must firmly push decision mak- tain environment and those who live and work there. After three ers to recognise the economic, educational, social, and per- days of enjoying the freedom of the Highland mountains the sonal benefits of outdoor recreation and in particular climb- Scottish Executive requested that in response to the foot and ing and hill walking. Potentially there is much to be gained, mouth disease (FMD) outbreak climbing and walking should be but there is also much that could be lost. So, to protect our suspended as a precautionary measure. Which was bad news for freedoms we will need persuasive and positive arguments our visitors from as far away as China and Iran. However, the that reflect our responsible enjoyment of the risks of par- visitors took the news well, and we all agreed about the need to ticipation, our commitment to cliff and mountain conser- respond to the crisis in the agricultural community. A new pro- vation, and our support for local communities. gramme of workshops and lectures was arranged and included an excellent review by Greig Stewart from South Africa of a project Faced with not being able to go on the hill in what can in the Drakensberg mountains that exemplified how a recrea- only be described as perfect weather and conditions the tional interest can lead to support for fragile mountain environ- international winter meet decided the mountain should ments and local communities. The Cairngorm ski area was not come to them and the ‘ice olympics’ were born. Con- included in the Scottish Executive access restriction and the Chair gratulations to all those who ‘invented’ and took part in Lift Company generously offered discount ski-ing to our the fun of friendly competition on and around the Glenmore ‘grounded’ international visitors. This was a very kind offer, but Lodge climbing towers; it was quite simply brilliant. So, a it did expose some hard to rationalise logic by the Scottish Ex- positive attitude and flexibility made the best of the FMD ecutive that downhill skiing in the Cairngorms was an acceptable situation. If you are looking for some enjoyable alterna- risk to the spread of FMD but winter climbing was not. How- tive events do not forget the National Mountaineering ever, one outcome of the FMD crisis is the much wider recogni- Exhibition opening in July at the Rheged Discovery Cen- tion that climbing and walking are by far the most significant tre near Penrith, nor the Entre-Prises & BMC Festival of contributors to the rural economy in the Highlands and many Climbing on 7 to 9 December at the NIA in Birmingham. other open countryside regions. Let’s hope by then we will have seen the end of the FMD access restrictions. Let’s also hope that any new agricul- It was planned that this issue of Summit would focus on liabil- tural policy and rural development takes full account of ity issues and the growing trend towards litigation, but because the value of and our strong desire to enjoy the freedom of of the extra reporting on the FMD crisis this subject has been climbing, hill walking and mountaineering. carried over to the next issue. However, as a preview Ian Dunn of Entre-Prises climbing walls gives a personal view on the liability ‘disease’ that could affect all our activities. The success last year of the passing of the Countryside and Rights of Way Act reduced the burden of liability on landowners. However, current trends General Secretary BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 22 1 28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 1 24/04/2001, 11:46 AM 22 CONTENTS Welcome to issue 22 of 4 News Foot and Mouth, Troll BICC results, Gri Gri reminder, China Exchange, BMC AGM. Summit is the membership magazine of the British Mountaineering Council. 8 Access news The BMC promotes the interests of New poster, Peak railway, climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers Rural development. and the freedom to enjoy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to: 31 MLTB update Latest MLTB news. Negotiate access improve- 4 News ments and promote cliff and 8 Foot & Mouth mountain conservation. Promote and advise on good 40 Forum practice, facilities, training and Counting the cost. equipment. Personal perspectives on Support events and specialist Foot and Mouth. programmes including youth and excellence. 33 Arena Provide services and informa- tion for members. Area calendar and AGM. BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, 44 Briefing Manchester M20 2BB Upcoming events. Tel: 0161 445 4747 REGULARS Fax: 0161 445 4500 e-mail: [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk 10 Foot & Mouth 12 Eat the view What happens when the EDITORIAL dust settles? A look at the Contributions for Summit should be future of the countryside. sent to Alex Messenger at the above address or [email protected]. 12 Eat the view Every care is taken of materials sent Rural development; for publication, however these are sub- changing views and roles. mitted at the sender's risk. 14 Get out of that PUBLISHING Crevasse rescue - every Gill Wootton thing you never knew. 24 Winter meet Display Advertising Report on the unusual Fraser Ingham & Lisa Undery 18 Breathe easy Winter Meet '01. Classified An in depth look at Paula Taylor & Lindsay Crossley breath able fabrics. Tel: 01536 382500 26 Never-ending story Fax: 01536 382501 22 Climber or leech? The new mountaineering exhibition introduced. PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY A new disease could kill our sport. GreenShires Publishing 28 Expeditions Telford Way, Kettering This year's trips. Northants, NN16 8UN Tel: 01536 382500 FEATURES 34 Troll BICC & BBC Neither the BMC nor GreenShires Publishing accept Report on the indoor season. responsibility for information supplied in adverts. Readers are advised to take reasonable care when responding to adverts. 37 Travel special RISK & RESPONSIBILITY Alpine Adventure - tips for Readers of Summit are reminded that first timers. climbing, hill walking and mountain- eering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in 52 Last thoughts these activities should be aware of and Sobering thoughts about sea accept these risks and be responsible for cliff pegs. their own actions and involvement. The BMC publishes a wide range of safety Cover: Un-named trekking peak, Pakistan and good practice advice and provides Credit: Payne training opportunities for members. 37 European Alps 28664_Summit_Issue22.p65 2 24/04/2001, 11:48 AM LETTERS SWISS SUCCESS wards with due caution, splitting up on TRANCEIVERS Let me introduce myself first: I’m a 34 old reaching easier ground. Three of us chose a Thanks for sending me the new issue of Swiss woman working as a professional snow plod across easy ground with a shal- “Summit”. I couldn’t help noticing that in editor, author and translator specialized in low slope, diagonally upwards to the ridge. an issue that begins with a picture of Roger mountaineering. Regarding what is said in Suddenly the ground moved – a strange Payne just before being avalanched, and fin- the article in Summit 21, I can say the fol- sensation.