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INSIDE: A MEMORABLE EXTENDED VISIT TO BRITAIN’S COSMOPOLITAN CAPITAL + A TOUR OF ’S HOT-SPRING INNS

NOVEMBER 2018 SINCE 1979

Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places

The spectacular and atmospheric library at L’oscar

LONDON’S LATEST BOUTIQUE HOTELS Flamboyant newcomers and refurbished classics from Holborn to Knightsbridge

ne of the few great cities that com- an itinerary is a painful task required of before the 39-room hotel’s official opening Obine charm and dynamism in equal all visitors to the city, whether they stay in September, but the staff exhibited none measure, London boasts inexhaustible for a week or a month. of the clumsiness one might expect during cultural riches and a stellar restaurant On this occasion, I had decided to focus a property’s earliest days. Things started scene that befits its status as a world on new or recently renovated hotels with off on the right foot before we even exited capital. The traveler’s greatest enemy is 100 rooms or fewer. Some of these proved our taxi, when a friendly bellman opened time. It’s all too tempting to spend every enchanting, but more than one failed to the car door and gathered our luggage. morning in museums, every afternoon live up to the hype. The hotel is housed within the former PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR shopping and every evening at the theater Overall, the voluptuous new L’oscar headquarters of the Baptist church in (adding a gourmet meal or two, of course, hotel in Holborn, an easy walk from the London. The early 20th-century clergymen and perhaps an afternoon high tea for good British Museum and Covent Garden, was who gathered there would surely be star- measure). Choosing what to leave out of the most impressive. We stayed shortly tled by designer Jacques Garcia’s theatrical

Hideaway Report editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries, please email [email protected]. Our butler offered to assist with attentive service and dramatic flair. The

unpacking. I declined and sent him away strength of my affection became clear when PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR with some laundry instead. He returned I regretted having to exchange it for the it a day later, boxed and wrapped in year-old Four Seasons Hotel London at Clockwise from top: Hallway décor; exterior; and our tissue paper like a gift from an expen- Ten Trinity Square. Junior Suite bedroom, L’oscar sive department store. That afternoon, I emailed André to ask him to print our ike L’oscar, this 100-room hotel transformation of the space. In the black- boarding passes before phoning our butler L occupies a repurposed historic walled main lobby-lounge, we discovered to request a room-service snack. The meal building: the Beaux Arts former home a mustachioed staffer wearing a sport coat arrived within 20 minutes, along with an of the Port of London Authority, across speckled with metallic copper daisies. envelope containing our boarding passes. from the Tower of London. Its exterior But his coat managed to look subdued, as This sort of service coordination takes and entry hall impressed with their he was standing before a screen embroi- thoughtfulness and organization, and grandeur, but much of the rest of the dered with golden peacock feathers. it is, alas, increasingly rare. Numerous property lacked period details (Grand While he fetched us some sparkling other touches, including well-designed Heritage Suites excepted). Contemporary water, the general manager approached light switches, his-and-her bath products plaster bas-relief landscapes lined the to welcome us to the hotel. Within two and top-quality yoga mats, indicate that walls of the rotunda lounge at the hotel’s minutes of our arrival, I already felt like a management has thought carefully about center, and its pink glass dome with celebrity guest. all aspects of the guest experience. brass tracery felt more 1970s-chic than The personable front desk clerk, André, The main gourmet restaurant, The Beaux Arts. But the general absence of who also proved to be an exceptionally Baptist Grill, located in a circular gallery historical patina can’t be blamed entirely efficient and knowledgeable concierge, beneath the cupola of the former chapel, on the Four Seasons; German bombs took us up to our Junior Suite. Our luggage had yet to open. But we had a fine dinner destroyed the original rotunda during had already arrived, watched over by our of ricotta-filled ravioli with pesto, and World War II. ROOM AND PHOTOS HALLWAY BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR butler, who gave us a tour of the room. The flaky Cornish sea bass in the more casual I felt immediately welcome at the bed, he explained proudly, was topped Café L’oscar, a gorgeous all-day bar and hotel, and it was reassuring to receive an by an eiderdown duvet that cost more restaurant that has already become itinerary of the plans we’d made with the than $15,000. I can’t deny that I slept popular with fashionable locals. I also concierge. He hadn’t been able to arrange exceedingly well beneath it. Black silk appreciated the expertly mixed cocktails the backstage tour of the Globe Theatre embroidered with red butterflies covered served in vintage-style coupes and the offered on the hotel’s website, but he did the closet doors lining the hallway to the unusual items on its à la carte breakfast obtain tickets to a sold-out performance, bath, which occupied the former belfry menu, such as a fried duck egg atop a hash in addition to helping with restaurant of the church. There was no tub, but I of duck confit and pink fir apple potatoes. reservations. The front desk agent proved loved the large red-marble shower, which L’oscar won’t appeal to traditionalists. equally helpful, organizing check-in to doubled as a steam room. But I loved its sensuous décor, highly our room before noon.

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT NOVEMBER 2018 In keeping with the rest of the hotel, restaurant, La Dame de Pic London, were Our one-bedroom apartment was on our Premier Room gave nods to the build- closed during our stay (the restaurant the fourth floor (or fifth, if you count ing’s history as well as the ’70s, with wood has since reopened). Even without those American-style). Since the building lacks paneling and sleek brass accent pieces. The amenities, I had a lovely time at the Four an elevator, it was a long walk up past king bed was deliciously comfortable, but Seasons, largely due to the warmth and the scuffed walls and dated ’90s décor the wingback armchair encouraged proper efficiency of the staff. Its City location also of the stairwell, the only public space posture more than relaxation. I liked how was appealing, within walking distance other than reception. Our well-equipped natural light flooded the beautiful white- of the Tower, the rapidly gentrifying galley kitchen would have allowed us to marble bath, but the window above the Shoreditch neighborhood, The Shard, cook meals, had we wished to, and the soaking tub faced another hotel across Borough Market, the Globe Theatre and adjacent blond wood-floored living room the street, making it necessary to keep Tate Modern. The City is London’s main had a comfortable sofa and plenty of light. the shade lowered most of the time. These business district, but the Four Seasons, But the suite was in need of freshening. quibbles aside, it was always a pleasure with its pool and other family-friendly The wrinkled slipcover of the armchair to return to the room. amenities, is an ideal choice for those appeared to be coming apart, the worn I also thoroughly enjoyed my “Escape traveling with children. kimono-style robes had faded and the to Taliouine” Moroccan-style hammam I had hoped that No. 5 Maddox St. in beige-tile bath looked straight out of a treatment in the extensive spa. I had Mayfair might also prove to be a fine alter- nursing home. Black stains on some of its the spacious chamber, complete with native for families. A minute’s walk from floor tiles didn’t improve matters. a warm white-marble navel stone and the famed Liberty department store, this Nor did service dazzle. I’d looked

PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR opalescent mosaic-tile dome, entirely to property comprises 12 apartments ranging forward to a hot room-service breakfast, myself. My therapist placed cool towels between one and three bedrooms, accessed but we had a 9 a.m. guided tour of the on my face in between scrubs, an inno- via a discreet door next to an upscale Thai Egyptian collection of the British Museum, vation all spas should emulate, and I restaurant. Numerous travel publications and room service on Saturdays didn’t start emerged from the ritual thoroughly gush about its exclusivity, style and “five- until 8:30 a.m. On Sundays, room service relaxed and refreshed. Nothing kills the star” concierge, and indeed, things started was entirely unavailable, aside from a lingering effects of jet lag like a good well. The concierge confirmed dinner complimentary morning breadbasket. I hammam treatment. reservations within seven minutes of my requested a copy of The Sunday Times, Unfortunately, the spa’s large swim- emailing the request. A friendly colleague which failed to appear (the concierge ming pool and the hotel’s Michelin-starred of his met us in the vestibule after we rang made vague excuses). And there was no the doorbell, carrying our luggage up the turndown service. Regret was not the flight of stairs to the small reception room emotion I experienced when we checked lined with an aquarium. out of No. 5 Maddox St.

Bed and bath, and exterior, Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square ROOM AND PHOTOS HALLWAY BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR

NOVEMBER 2018 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 he neighborhood just to the east, Soho, to work only in the evenings. A stylishly Banham chicken with mushroom duxelles, Thas gentrified in recent years, but it dressed front desk agent gave us a friendly crispy pommes Anna and truffle jus. Live still retains enough of an edge to be inter- welcome and, to her credit, helped bring piano music accompanied our nightcap in esting. On a small side street surrounded our bags up to our Medium room. the popular bar next door. by West End theaters stands the 33-room There we discovered all manner of Kettner’s Townhouse has much to Kettner’s Townhouse, which reopened thoughtful touches, including a bar cart recommend it, but our room’s lack of as a hotel earlier this year. For most of its (supplied with fresh ice each evening) storage never ceased to be an irritant, and history Kettner’s was a restaurant, one of and an astonishing variety of Cowshed the busyness of the public spaces grew the first French restaurants in London, bath products. The room’s décor felt fresh tiring. In ever-bustling Soho, I prefer opened in 1867 by a chef of Napoleon III. and chic despite its early 20th-century a hotel that serves as an oasis. It was Its private dining rooms upstairs became inspiration. For one person, our Medium something of a relief to decamp to The infamous, reputedly facilitating the affair room would have been ideal. Two people Franklin in Knightsbridge. of Edward VII and actress Lillie Langtry will have more trouble sharing the very and hosting dinners for Oscar Wilde. limited storage space. One-third of the ucked onto a tranquil residential The Soho House club renovated the small wardrobe — there was no closet Tstreet near the newly renovated property and opened its storied restau- — was occupied by drawers and a safe, Victoria and Albert Museum, The rant, The Piano Bar and Champagne Bar and the attractive shower-only bath had Franklin also recently underwent a to the public; no Soho House membership only one pedestal sink, unencumbered by major refurbishment. Designer Anouska is required. counter space. We crowded our toiletries Hempel redecorated the public spaces and I felt skeptical about the hotel, after onto a small stand of shelves nearby, 35 guest rooms to dramatic effect. We sat having experienced amateurish service already partially occupied with various at one of the two octagonal inlaid-marble at Chicago’s Soho House hotel a few years bath amenities. Couples should book one tables in the striking black-and-white ago, a feeling not assuaged on our arrival. of the three larger accommodations in lobby to check in, before heading up to PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR I was obliged to bring our luggage to the the hotel, the Medium Plus room, the Big a Junior Suite with a pretty view of the front desk myself, as the doorman seems room or the Jacobean Suite. garden behind the hotel. Other townhouses After a glass of Drappier Blanc de Noirs share the green space, punctuated with Brut Nature Zero Dosage in the Champagne plane trees, but whenever we sat outside Bar, which has its original mosaic-tile at one of the hotel’s patio tables, we had floor, we had dinner in The Dining Room, the gardens entirely to ourselves. Its private dining rooms “ the restored Kettner’s Restaurant. I loved Our wood-floored Junior Suite may upstairs became infamous, how the room’s many mirrors reflected not have been very large, but we never reputedly facilitating the the dozens of candles on the tables. Our felt cramped. The sandy-hued limestone engaging waiter, Ulrick, recommended bath, for example, had only one sink but affair of Edward VII and some delicate Devon crab with sea purslane an ample counter, as well as a two-person actress Lillie Langtry. and fresh lovage, and sumptuous roast walk-in shower adjacent to a soaking tub.

Bath and bedroom of our Medium room, Kettner’s Townhouse PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT NOVEMBER 2018 Our Junior Suite, and the shared garden, The Franklin

And its heated floor was a delight. Its pleasantly while they observed our prog- how most of The Stafford’s public spaces cream, gray and black color palette felt ress. A 90-room hotel that charges such feel larger and more open than those both stylish and soothing to the eye. My high rates should have a bellman or a at DUKES. The latter will have to up its PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR only complaint is that the shower’s seal was doorman at the ready. We had tea in a service game in order to compete (as well poor, forcing me to stuff a towel against genteel cream-and-powder-blue candlelit as fixing the flaking bathtub). it in order to keep the bath’s floor dry. lounge as we waited to check into our In spite of the problems, I left with Downstairs, mirrors filled the gorgeous Luxury Room. It had a sense of classic regret. We had spent almost two weeks bar, set off by the black walls surrounding nautical luxury, with a royal-blue window in London, and although each day was them, and the charming bartender, seat and framed antique prints of sailboats packed with memorable experiences, there Marina, presented all-too-delicious cock- and rowboats. I liked the comfortable were dozens of sights and activities our tails from the creative drink menu. We king bed, ample closet space, strong towel limited time forced us to pass over. My didn’t try The Franklin’s Italian restau- warmer and Floris bath products. But I’m consolation is that it surely won’t be long rant, decorated with similar drama as never fond of shower-tub combinations, before the Hideaway Report’s calendar the bar, but it was a delightful place to and I didn’t appreciate that some of the requires me to visit this magnificent city breakfast each morning. Instead, we tub’s lining had flaked off. once again. H took advantage of the helpful concierge, We had a delicious dinner in the bright who made us last-minute reservations new GBR (Great British Restaurant), which Entrance cul-de-sac, DUKES at Michelin two-star Claude Bosi at included Scottish scallops, Cornish pollock Bibendum nearby. with cheese sauce and burnt leeks, and Barbary duck with salt-baked turnips. PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR e ended our London explorations Breakfasting in GBR was also a pleasure. Won the opposite side of Green Park Surprisingly, the famous DUKES Bar in St. James’s, the neighborhood that proved to be a disappointment. I ordered a is home to one of our most enduringly $25 Vesper martini from the legendary bar popular hotel recommendations, The trolley. A white-coated bartender rolled it Stafford London. It has long overshad- up and simply poured some bitters, Sacred owed DUKES, located just around the DUKES Exclusive Amber Vermouth and corner. But the latter recently completed a ice-cold gin and vodka into a chilled glass. renovation, and I decided to see if it could He skipped mixing the ingredients with now compete. ice, resulting in a stronger but rougher- Our stay started off on the wrong foot, textured martini. as we dragged our bags toward the front I had a much better cocktail at The desk, where two staff members smiled Stafford’s homey American Bar. I also like

NOVEMBER 2018 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 London Notebook

HOTELS AT A GLANCE

L’OSCAR A94

LIKE The sumptuous and theatrical Jacques Garcia design; the glamorous public spaces; the thoughtful, well-organized service; our unique bath; the convenient location. DISLIKE In order to avoid receiving a poor exchange rate at checkout, it’s necessary to tick a box on the registration form, asking to be charged in pounds. GOOD TO KNOW Be sure to visit The Library, with its spectacular plasterwork and peacock murals. LOWEST RATE: STANDARD QUEEN, New porcelain courtyard $580; EDITOR’S CHOICE: SUPERIOR JUNIOR SUITE, $1,280. 2-6 SOUTHAMPTON ROW, at the Victoria and Albert Museum WC1B 4AA. TEL. (44) 20-7405-5555. LOSCAR.COM

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LONDON MUSEUM UPGRADES AND EXTENSIONS AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE A91 LIKE The highly attentive and professional service; the sybaritic hammam; the ondon has a huge range of world-class museums that display major indoor pool. DISLIKE The hotel’s PR touts its location’s history, but few period L pieces spanning the entirety of recorded history. Certain other cities details remain. GOOD TO KNOW As is often the case with the Four Seasons, can make a similar claim, but in none of them are the most important numerous activities for children are available. LOWEST RATE: SUPERIOR ROOM, $580; EDITOR’S CHOICE: EXECUTIVE ROOM, $760. 10 TRINITY SQUARE, EC3N 4AJ. TEL. (44) institutions free to the public. Several of London’s most significant 20-3297-9200. FOURSEASONS.COM museums have recently completed renovations and additions, making them worth revisiting if you haven’t seen them in a few years. NO. 5 MADDOX ST. 85 HAYWARD GALLERY — Part of the Southbank Centre, this brutalist-style LIKE The location near excellent shopping and numerous restaurants; the large accommodations; the well-equipped kitchen. DISLIKE The lack of an elevator; concrete building reopened in January after a two-year refurbishment. The the scuffed stairwell; the dated décor; the signs of wear in our apartment; the most noticeable change is that 66 pyramid-shaped skylights now allow faded and scruffy kimono robes. GOOD TO KNOW Room service is available natural light into the top-floor galleries. The Hayward operates as aKunst - only during certain hours and not at all on Sundays; the hotel will grocery shop for you for a fee. LOWEST RATE: ONE-BED EXECUTIVE SUITE, $430; EDITOR’S halle, being devoted to rotating exhibitions of mostly contemporary art. CHOICE: A DIFFERENT HOTEL. 5 MADDOX STREET, W1S 2QD. TEL. (44) 20-7647-0200. LIVING-ROOMS.CO.UK SIR JOHN SOANE’S MUSEUM — In 2016, this wonderful little museum completed a seven-year renovation. It opened up three rooms that had long

KETTNER’S TOWNHOUSE 89 been closed to the public. Architect Sir John Soane acquired the houses

LIKE The central Soho location; the chic 1920s-inspired décor; the wealth that now make up the museum between 1792 and 1823, rebuilding them of bath products in our room; the sense of history; the fine restaurant. and filling them with his collections of paintings, sculptures, architectural DISLIKE Our room’s limited storage space. GOOD TO KNOW Laptops are not models and artifacts, not least of which is the spectacular alabaster permitted in public spaces after 11:30 a.m., and talking on cell phones is allowed sarcophagus of Pharaoh Seti I. only in the reception area. LOWEST RATE: TINY ROOM, $360; EDITOR’S CHOICE: JACOBEAN SUITE, $900. 29 ROMILLY STREET, W1D 5HP. TEL. (44) 20-7734-5650. TATE MODERN — Linked to Tate Britain by a Thames ferry service, Tate KETTNERSTOWNHOUSE.COM PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR Modern occupies a former power station and a new wing that opened PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR with much fanfare in 2016. The two great virtues of the new building THE FRANKLIN A93 by architects Herzog & de Meuron are its panoramic terrace and its LIKE The tranquil Knightsbridge location; the striking décor; our Junior Suite’s smart layout; the jewel box of a bar; the large, semiprivate garden. additional exhibition space. Tate Modern has no shortage of modern DISLIKE The poor seal on our shower door. GOOD TO KNOW The spa in the and contemporary masterpieces, and I enjoyed seeing works by Yayoi basement has a treatment room for massages, a small fitness room and a steam Kusama, Mark Rothko, Eva Hesse and Henri Matisse. room (turned on by request). LOWEST RATE: SUPERIOR ROOM, $480; EDITOR’S CHOICE: JUNIOR SUITE, $680. 24 EGERTON GARDENS, SW3 2DB. TEL. (44) 20-7584-5533. VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM — This grand museum showcases STARHOTELSCOLLEZIONE.COM art and design in no fewer than 145 galleries, with impressive pieces ranging from a giant ancient Egyptian scepter of blue faience to a fabulous DUKES 88 pink acrylic necklace made in 2005 by jewelry designer Adam Paxon. In LIKE The hidden-away location in St. James’s, near Green Park and Buckingham Palace; the reserved and quiet atmosphere; the classic décor; the bright and 2017, the museum unveiled a new entrance and gallery space designed cheerful GBR restaurant. DISLIKE The overrated bar; the lack of help with by Amanda Levete of AL_A. She opened up the historic colonnade on luggage when we arrived; the housekeeping and maintenance issues in our Exhibition Road so that it leads to the new Sackler Courtyard, clad in room. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel has a spa with one treatment room, which is some 10,000 porcelain tiles. A mirror-walled rhombus of a skylight now closed Sunday and Monday. LOWEST RATE: DUKES ROOM, $600; EDITOR’S CHOICE: JUNIOR SUITE, $920. 35 ST. JAMES’S PLACE, SW1A 1NY. TEL. (44) 20-7491-4840. illuminates a new subterranean gallery, accessed via a sculptural black DUKESHOTEL.COM staircase inside.

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT NOVEMBER 2018 Colchester rock oyster gratin at Aqua Shard; master carver slicing my grouse at Simpson’s in the Strand; and veal rillettes with shaved king oyster mushrooms, cubes of white asparagus and truffle cream sauce at Hide

MEN’S STYLE

he bespoke suits of Savile Row T remain as alluring as ever, but the well-dressed man should also consider a stroll along Chiltern Street (nowadays best known for the trendy Chiltern Firehouse restaurant and hotel).

English Cut — This Savile Row- style shop makes made-to-mea- sure (machine-made) and bespoke THE BEST OF BRITISH CUISINE (handmade) suits, which start at $1,550 and $5,500, respectively. hen I travel, I’m most interested in restaurants with a strong sense of place. For years, London was The engaging creative director, W lauded mainly for those serving foreign menus, but now the city has numerous fine options for high- Karl Matthews, says he tries “to end British food as well. FIND MORE LONDON RESTAURANT DISCOVERIES AT HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM. make the whole experience fun.”

58 CHILTERN STREET, W1U 7QZ. AQUA SHARD — In a soaring mosaic-like terrine of sweet and comes in jewel-like presentations space on the 31st floor of The tender leek and smoky eel, served but feels satisfying, not precious. John Simons — This eclectic Shard, London’s tallest building, with rich horseradish clotted I tried an appetizer of beets and menswear shop dates to 1955, this romantic restaurant has cream. I also liked my flaky cod beet greens with horseradish and its owner is the subject of panoramic views of the City’s with deviled crab and grilled cauli- foam. The shaved king oyster a recent documentary, “John skyline and the Thames. I had flower. And I won’t soon forget the mushrooms in my main course Simons: A Modernist.” He showed a delicious dinner of Colchester side of paper-thin potato formed of veal rillettes turned into some- us around the store himself. A rock oyster gratin with crunchy into crunchy, creamy-centered thing like al dente pasta in the range of merchandise includes samphire, and perfectly cooked batons. 30 HENRIETTA STREET, WC2E truffle cream. The ground-floor well-chosen traditional sport coats fillet of Hereford beef. Tables in 8NA. TEL. (44) 20-7324-7722. restaurant has a tempting à la as well as high-end Japanese the cocktail bar have even better carte menu, but Hide Above has denim. 46 CHILTERN STREET, W1U 7QR. HOLBORN DINING ROOM — better views. 85 PICCADILLY, W1J 7NB. views. 31 ST. THOMAS STREET, SE1 9RY. Trunk — The owner of Trunk At this “grand British brasserie” TEL. (44) 20-3146-8666. TEL. (44) 20-3011-1256. is also a partner in Monocle, a in the Rosewood Hotel, the worldly media company with BERNERS TAVERN — “Tavern” personable waiter tried to steer SIMPSON’S IN THE STRAND a café on Chiltern Street. This is hardly the word for this pala- me toward the mutton pie, but — After a 2017 renovation this shop carries mostly smart, tial dining room in The London it was only the pork pie for me. I institution still looks grandly tradi- casual menswear as well as PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR EDITION hotel. A mix of well- made the right decision. It had a tional. Sitting at the table next Trunk-branded merchandise. heeled travelers and Londoners flawless, flaky crust and a savory to Winston Churchill’s favorite, Its sister store, Trunk LABS, at populated the semicircular filling of pork shoulder, bacon, we enjoyed potted shrimp in 34 Chiltern Street, sells shoes, booths. I relished my roasted fennel and sage, accompanied a brown-butter sauce spiked luggage and other accessories. lemon sole with brown shrimp, by a pork demi-glace. It was with mace, followed by York- 8 CHILTERN STREET, W1U 7PU. parsley and lemon crushed pota- positively addictive. A trifle of shire grouse, accompanied by toes. An energetic sommelier cherries, yellow sponge cake, braised red cabbage and creamed Cadenhead’s — After all that made fine recommendations. pistachios, mascarpone cream spinach. A master carver sliced shopping, a drink is in order. This the grouse, served whole, into 10 BERNERS STREET, W1T 3NP. TEL. (44) and hazelnut toffee was almost family-owned company dates more-manageable pieces for me. 20-7908-7979. as compelling. 252 HIGH HOLBORN, to 1842, and it’s one of the few He also manned the roast-beef WC1V 7EN. TEL. (44) 20-3747-8633. whisky-focused stores left in — Named after a CORA PEARL trolley, from which he carved London. A cozy tasting room in 19th-century courtesan, this new — The newest restaurant HIDE rosy slices. With service that was the basement can hold up to 12, but restaurant in a Covent Garden by star chef Ollie Dabbous has a formal but friendly, this became if the proprietors have something Scandinavian-modern aesthetic townhouse has an atmosphere one of my favorite restaurants of open, they’re likely to give you a at once full of energy and tinged and floor-to-ceiling windows over- the entire trip. 100 STRAND, WC2R 0EW. sample. 26 CHILTERN STREET, W1U 7QF. with scandal. I started with a looking Green Park. The cuisine TEL. (44) 20-7420-2111.

NOVEMBER 2018 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 Exterior, Hoshinoya JAPAN: NEW AND CLASSIC RYOKAN Taking the waters from Tokyo to on the southern island of

n the train ride from Narita airport the geothermal waters here lie far below, The manager welcomed us in good Oto Tokyo Station, at the end of an and Hoshinoya had to drill a kilometer- English and ushered us to a sitting room 11-hour flight, the thought that I would deep well to tap into them. on the 11th floor for an orientation. To soon be soaking in a hot spring buoyed my The property occupies a high-rise in maintain a feeling of intimacy in the large tired spirits. There are more than 2,000 the financial district (just blocks from building, the 84 guest rooms are split into PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR natural hot-spring baths, known as onsen, the Aman Tokyo, with which it shares a groups of six on 14 floors, with each floor and my partner and I planned to visit one similar minimalist aesthetic). Our cab being effectively a self-contained ryokan at each stop along our journey. from the station pulled out of the rain with a common area. She informed us

Our first hotel, the Hoshinoya Tokyo, and into the underground hotel entrance. that this lounge would be constantly EXTERIOR: NACASA & PARTNERS INC. is billed as the only true onsen ryokan From there, we were led upstairs to a quiet stocked with traditional Japanese snacks. BEDROOM PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR (hot-spring inn) in central Tokyo. This tatami-lined hallway. As in a traditional Despite the property being full, its is somewhat surprising considering the ryokan, we were asked to remove our layout made it feel as though we had the country’s extensive bathing culture, but shoes before entering. place all to ourselves.

Our bedroom, and the main onsen, Hoshinoya Tokyo

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT NOVEMBER 2018 After a review of onsen etiquette, plus Green Car (first-class) bullet train to was no bed to be seen, as staff roll out some helpful language tips, we were shown Toyama. From there we took a bus first futons and heating mats onto the floor to our room. The space was not particu- to Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heri- after dinner. My only disappointment larly large and had a view of an office tage village tucked into the mountains, was that our bathroom felt dated (think building across a small square. However, and then to Takayama, a historic town 1980s, not 1880s). the outlook was improved by shoji paper comprised of blocks of well-preserved Wanosato has two (one wood screens. The low Western-style king bed merchant houses from the and one stone), which are rotated daily was just soft enough, the television was (1600-1868). by gender so that guests can enjoy both. hidden and the glass walls of the bath Located 20 minutes to the southwest Neither is as dramatic as you might find could frost over at the flick of a switch of town, Wanosato is a classic rural at a more modern resort. However, the for privacy. The main bath contained a onsen ryokan that opened in 1858. The hot water and river view — complete with soaking tub, while a TOTO washlet toilet property consists of traditional Gassho- fishing herons — more than sufficed. was situated in an adjacent powder room. zukuri thatched-roof houses on a wooded Dinner was served kaiseki-style in a Before taking her leave, the manager five-acre riverfront lot. The sound of private dining room. Kaiseki dinners are had instructed us on how to wear a yukata, rushing snowmelt greeted us on arrival. lavish, and our 13 courses extended for the casual Japanese bathrobe traditionally We followed a path to the mossy-roofed almost two hours. With a meal that long, worn at an onsen. Properly dressed, we main house. There, we sat and warmed there are bound to be ups and downs. The headed upstairs to the 17th floor, where we ourselves by the fire, the mountain air marbled Hida beef, a local delicacy similar parted ways. Onsens are divided by gender, still being cold in late spring. to Kobe, was possibly the best meat I’ve as clothing is prohibited. After disrobing, The river view from the large window ever tasted, while the hearth-grilled river it is mandatory to wash thoroughly before in our third-floor suite was picture- char was also excellent. In addition, we entering the baths. perfect, and the adjacent sitting area were served 17 species of seafood, which Past the locker room, I found a small made for a relaxing place to read. There was rather exhausting. rectangular pool flanked by showers and bathing stools. Sinking into the shallow Clockwise from top: wooden onsen; view from our suite; and char at the kaiseki-style dinner, Wanosato, Takayama onsen, I swam through a passage until I came to a second, larger chamber, where dark walls towered two stories overhead and opened to a square of sky. As I sat

PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR soaking, cold rain began to fall on my face. Jet lag made waking up easy. Our Japanese-style breakfast tray of miso

EXTERIOR: NACASA & PARTNERS INC. soup, rice, jellied fruit and steamed salmon was delivered to our room right on time. BEDROOM PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR Prepared for a morning of shopping, we headed to the Harajuku district. This area is generally associated with youth culture, which embraces extreme cuteness in clothing and manners. Braving the crowds of teens and tourists, we immersed ourselves in the curious fash- ions and tchotchkes. For more-mainstream designer and vintage boutiques, you can cross over to the eastern side of Harajuku. That evening, we opted for an early dinner at Soba Sasuga, a Michelin-starred restaurant specializing in handmade soba noodles, followed by a flight of Japanese whiskeys at Zoetrope.

he next morning, after a simple Tyet delicious breakfast of rice balls prepared by the hotel, we boarded a

NOVEMBER 2018 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 After a restful night and a final soak an art museum; minimalist paintings reservations may seem odd, but this allows in the onsen, we departed, taking with us still hung in the distance at the end of guests exclusive access for one hour each memories of the rushing water and the long hallways. day. In the event, the underground pool smell of the smoldering fire. Our room was accessible via a tunnel proved atmospheric. and an elevator that opened directly at Feeling refreshed, we dressed for rom Takayama we boarded a train our door. Each accommodation occupies another kaiseki dinner. The hotel restau- Fsouth to Kyoto for a day of shopping an entire floor, and ours was impres- rant was peaceful and overlooked a large and temple exploration. From there, we sively spacious. Floor-to-ceiling windows waterfall and reflecting pool. Our food took another train to the Setouchi region spanned its length and surveyed the was stylishly plated and included some and Japan’s beautiful . surrounding subtropical forests. The of the freshest fish of our trip. The chef Our ultimate destination was Matsuyama, décor was strictly minimalist, the redesign and manager were also accommodating the largest city on Shikoku, the smallest having been supervised by Tadao Ando in preparing vegetarian options, as our of Japan’s main islands. Matsuyama is himself. Unfortunately, its simplicity was appetite for seafood had begun to wane. barely mentioned in guidebooks, but the unforgiving, and stains and scuffs were The next day was spent exploring fact that it is home to Setouchi Aonagi, visible on the carpet and walls. Amenities central Matsuyama. We took a cab and a seven-room hideaway designed by included a king bed, powder room, walk-in then a gondola up to Matsuyama Castle, Pritzker Prize-winning architect Tadao closet, Bluetooth stereo and private onsen one of the best-preserved wooden hilltop Ando, had piqued my interest. And as overlooking a golf course. castles in Japan. The afternoon was hot, part of our onsen tour it seemed fitting After settling in, we ventured out to so we fled to the shade of Dogo Arcade, a to visit the city’s Dōgo Onsen, reportedly explore the hotel, stopping in the stylish central shopping area. At the Dōgo Onsen, Japan’s oldest, with a history stretching library with its well-curated collection which sits at the periphery of the arcade, back more than 1,000 years. of design books. Through a large window Japanese tourists in yukata robes, local The hot, humid air of the southern we could see the rooftop pool, which had kids and video crews had gathered. An PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR coast was a pleasant change from the cold initially caught my eye while researching elderly woman stopped to share her pride rains of Kyoto. The hotel had arranged for new hotels. Alas, the reality left me in this “national treasure.” a cab to pick us up at the train station for deflated. The view of the distant inland The bathhouse at Dōgo Onsen has three the 30-minute ride out of town. Setouchi sea was impressive, but the pool water was separate levels, and after deciphering the Aonagi, an imposing concrete monolith, filled with swimming insects and algae. ticket system, I selected the second tier. sat midslope on a small mountain. Later, we were told that it was closed until This more private onsen was once used by Upon arrival, businesslike staff led the summertime “swimming season.” samurai, who refused to mingle with the us down a long hallway, past a floating I asked the management about the common merchants who bathed on the Zen garden and what looked like a former indoor pool as an alternative, but reser- ground floor. The third tier is not open ticket counter. Before being converted into vations were required. Fortunately, there to bathers because it was built for the a hotel, Setouchi Aonagi had operated as was an opening. The necessity for pool exclusive use of the emperor, but tours

Iced prawn with grouper and tuna sashimi served at our kaiseki dinner, and the private indoor pool, Setouchi Aonagi, Matsuyama

RUSSIA HOKKAIDO CHINA

NORTH PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORTPATHWAY EDITOR KOREA JAPAN 0 200 KM 0 200 MI

SEA OF JAPAN SOUTH KOREA HONSHU TAKAYAMA TOKYO MT. FUJI KYOTO HAKONE PACIFIC OCEAN MATSUYAMA SHIKOKU

KYUSHU

PHILIPPINE SEA

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT NOVEMBER 2018 Room with private onsen, and tranquil path, Gôra Kadan, Hakone

are available. The baths at Dōgo are more looked out onto a small garden. The bath more bemused than disturbed. At times, modest than the private one at our hotel, contained a shower and a traditional the baths were also taken over by fami- but the sense of history is the real highlight cypress-wood soaking tub. lies, but the atmosphere was friendly. In of bathing there. The two public onsens at Gôra Kadan the early morning, we could have them PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR After some difficulty communicating are set in gardens decorated with large entirely to ourselves. with a cab driver that was solved by Google boulders, spirit houses and Japanese The whole experience at Gôra Kadan Translate, we arrived back at the hotel and maples. Most of the time the setting was was seamless. The meals were served settled into what now seemed to be a luxu- perfectly serene, but occasionally its kaiseki- and shabu shabu-style, and the rious prison. Once our initial fascination tranquility was interrupted by a local onsen was one of the best we visited on with the space had passed, the hard angles train rolling by on tracks just yards away. our trip. It was a fitting finale to our two- of our room became tiring. The staff was Fortunately, I was so relaxed that I felt week hot-spring pilgrimage. H consistently friendly, but I had trouble reaching them by phone on more than one occasion. Overall, Setouchi Aonagi HOSHINOYA TOKYO A95 LIKE Serene atmosphere; seamless design; soothing onsen waters. DISLIKE Those looking for spectacular is a draw for an architecture aficionado, Tokyo views from their room will be disappointed. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel restaurant serves well-regarded but inconsistencies of service and facilities French-inspired kaiseki cuisine; unlimited complimentary snacks and beverages are also available in the preclude a recommendation. common area of each floor.LOWEST RATE: SAKURA (DELUXE KING) FOR TWO, $950; EDITOR’S CHOICE: YURI (CORNER DELUXE KING) FOR TWO, $1,030. 1-9-1 OTEMACHI, CHIYODA-KU, TOKYO. TEL. (81) 50-3786-1144. HOSHINOYA.COM

oping to end our trip in Japan with a WANOSATO A92 Hclassic view of Mount Fuji, we made LIKE Peaceful riverside location. DISLIKE Carpet and fixtures are showing some wear. GOOD TO KNOW the long haul back north from Matsuyama The location is beautiful but far from town; the hotel operates a shuttle van to the train station three times daily; Western-style beds are unavailable. LOWEST RATE: STANDARD KOTO ROOM FOR TWO, $560; EDITOR’S to Hakone, a popular tourist stop an hour

PATHWAY PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORTPATHWAY EDITOR CHOICE: GARYU ROOM FOR TWO, $760 (BREAKFAST AND DINNER INCLUDED). 1682 ICHINOMIYACHO, TAKAYAMA, GIFU. outside Tokyo. TEL. (81) 577-53-2321. RYOKANCOLLECTION.COM Located a few blocks from Gora Station, near the base of Mount Hakone, Gôra SETOUCHI AONAGI 89 LIKE The large and luxurious room with a private onsen; the Tadao Ando architecture. DISLIKE The blemishes Kadan is a long-recommended Hideaway marring the minimalist look; staff members were sometimes hard to contact. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel is a Report ryokan. Out front, the hotel restau- 30-minute drive from the train station, however there is a helipad at the golf course next door for those who rant is a converted nobleman’s house. A want to splurge. LOWEST RATE: GARDEN SUITE FOR TWO, $550; EDITOR’S CHOICE: HOT SPRING SUITE FOR TWO, $700 (BREAKFAST INCLUDED). 794-1 YANAIDANIMACHI, MATSUYAMA, EHIME. TEL. (81) 89-977-9500. SETOUCHI-AONAGI.COM small side path leads to the main hotel,

a modern annex that plunges five stories GÔRA KADAN A95 down into the valley below. LIKE Two beautifully landscaped outdoor onsens; the attentive staff. DISLIKE The train that runs near the We were greeted by the manager and public bath is either jarring or charming depending on your state of mind. We also encountered more loud gaijin (foreigners) here than at our other hotels. GOOD TO KNOW Because of the modern annex to the small historic our personal attendant and escorted building, the hotel is bigger than you would imagine from photos. LOWEST RATE: STANDARD ROOM FOR TWO, $980; through a dramatic hallway to our room. EDITOR’S CHOICE: KADAN SUITE FOR TWO, $1,420 (BREAKFAST AND DINNER INCLUDED). 1300 GORA, HAKONE-MACHI, Our Japanese-style accommodations ASHIGARASHIMOGUN, KANAGAWA. TEL. (81) 460-82-3331. GORAKADAN.COM

NOVEMBER 2018 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 READ MORE ON HIDEAWAYREPORT.COM

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NAPA REIMAGINED Celebrity chef Michael Chi- acres of gardens, the 26 villas The Estate is a 22-acre en- arello, proprietor of Napa’s come with private sundecks clave, improbably located Chiarello Vineyards and and pools, a wine cellar and right in the center of Yount- host of the Food Network’s dedicated butler service. In ICELAND: ARIELLE BERGER ville, California. Its self- “Easy Entertaining,” oversees addition to the Sea Fire Salt declared aim is to “redesign three restaurants, including restaurant, which specializes the Wine Country experience.” Bottega, where menus in local seafood and regional In addition to the newly showcase “micro-regional flavors, the property offers redone Vintage House hotel Italian cuisine, with dishes “Dining by Design,” a ser- HIDEAWAY REPORT (80 rooms) and Hotel Villagio drawn from every region of vice that arranges private HOTEL RATINGS (112 guest rooms and 22 the country.” beach dinners, picnics on A99-100 — A truly great hotel, among suites), The Villa at The Estate uninhabited islands and even the finest of its kind in the world VIETNAM DEBUT gastronomic trips aboard is a lavish, 6,600-square- A96-98 — An exceptional hotel of great foot, five-bedroom home, This November sees the open- local fishing boats. Aside individuality and distinction

with its own kitchen, private ing of a new resort, Anantara from lounging on untouched A93-95 — An outstanding hotel of outdoor pool and a hot tub. Quy Nhon Villas, located on a golden sands, guests may genuine sophistication LAST LOOK PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR V Marketplace offers art relatively untouched stretch sea kayak to pristine reefs, A90-92 — A fine hotel with consider- galleries, a wine-tasting cellar of the Vietnamese coast, 70 snorkel or luxuriate in the able charm about which we have minor reservations and Napa Valley’s original minutes by plane northeast hilltop spa, which offers three 89 & Below — A hotel that did not meet the hot air balloon company, all of Ho Chi Minh City (the cliffside treatment pavilions, required standard housed within and around local airport is a 40-minute where coconut milk baths are Find all of our recommended hotels the historic, 137-year-old drive away). Backed by moun- followed by “synchronised at HideawayReport.com. Groezinger Winery complex. tains and surrounded by 17 four-hand massage.”

STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION. 1. Publication Title: Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report; 2. Publication Number: 0884-7622; 3. Filing Date: September 2018; 4. Issue Frequency: Monthly; 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 12; 6. Annual Subscription Price: $395; 7. Complete Mailing Address: 4214 Medical Pkwy, Suite 200, Austin, TX 78756; 8. Contact Person and Telephone: Alexandra Vorsas, (512) 904-7353; 9. Publisher’s Name and Address: Crista Bailey (same address as above), Editor’s Name and Address: Andrew Harper (same address as above), Managing Editor’s Name and Address: Kristina Mitchell (same address as above); 10. Owner’s Name and Address: (1) R. Steven Hicks, 405 W 14th Street, Austin, TX 78701, (2) Gregory S. Marchbanks, 600 Congress Avenue, Suite 200, Austin, TX 78701; 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages or Other Securities: n/a; 12. Tax Status: Has Not Changed During Preceding 12 Months; 13. Publication Title: Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report; 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2018; 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Direct,Travel Newsletter; Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total Number of Copies – 14,338/26,224, b. Paid Circulation: (1) Mailed Outside County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 – 7,834/11,617 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 – 0/0 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS® – 1,831/14,190 (4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS – 3,313/0, c. Total Paid Distribution – 12,978/25,807, d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541 – 0/0, (2) Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541 – 0/0, (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS – 4/2, (4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail – 2,296/201, e. Total Free or Nominal Rate of Distribution – 2,301/203, f. Total Distribution – 14,338/26,010, g. Copies Not Distributed – 0/214, h. Total – 14,338/26,224, i. Percent Paid – 91/99.

Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper, LLC at 4214 Medical Parkway, Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Hideaway Report, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2018 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

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