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Regional Oral History Office University of California the Bancroft Library Berkeley, California Regional Oral History Office University of California The Bancroft Library Berkeley, California Cecilia Chiang CECILIA CHIANG: AN ORAL HISTORY Interviews conducted by Victor Geraci, PhD in 2005-2006 Copyright © 2007 by The Regents of the University of California Since 1954 the Regional Oral History Office has been interviewing leading participants in or well-placed witnesses to major events in the development of Northern California, the West, and the nation. Oral History is a method of collecting historical information through tape-recorded interviews between a narrator with firsthand knowledge of historically significant events and a well-informed interviewer, with the goal of preserving substantive additions to the historical record. The tape recording is transcribed, lightly edited for continuity and clarity, and reviewed by the interviewee. The corrected manuscript is bound with photographs and illustrative materials and placed in The Bancroft Library at the University of California, Berkeley, and in other research collections for scholarly use. Because it is primary material, oral history is not intended to present the final, verified, or complete narrative of events. It is a spoken account, offered by the interviewee in response to questioning, and as such it is reflective, partisan, deeply involved, and irreplaceable. ********************************* All uses of this manuscript are covered by a legal agreement between The Regents of the University of California and Cecilia Chiang, dated June 3, 2007. The manuscript is thereby made available for research purposes. All literary rights in the manuscript, including the right to publish, are reserved to The Bancroft Library of the University of California, Berkeley. No part of the manuscript may be quoted for publication without the written permission of the Director of The Bancroft Library of the University of California, Berkeley. Requests for permission to quote for publication should be addressed to the Regional Oral History Office, The Bancroft Library, Mail Code 6000, University of California, Berkeley, 94720-6000, and should include identification of the specific passages to be quoted, anticipated use of the passages, and identification of the user. It is recommended that this oral history be cited as follows: Cecilia Chiang, CECILIA CHIANG: AN ORAL HISTORY conducted by Victor Geraci, PhD, 2005-2006, Regional Oral History Office, The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, 2007. CECILIA CHIANG (photo courtesy of Cecilia Chiang) v Discursive Table of Contents—Cecilia Chiang Interview #1: August 4, 2005 ..........................................................................................1 [Audio File 1] ..............................................................................................................1 Birth in Wuxi, China, 1920--Childhood in Beijing--Family background--Mother and father, their work and upbringing--Food, culture, living arrangements-- Education--Japanese occupation--Shopping for food in Chinese markets--Meals at home--Seasonal cooking and dining--Drying and pickling meats and vegetables. Interview #2: September 29, 2005 ..................................................................................37 [Audio File 2] ..............................................................................................................37 Japanese occupation, 1937--Leaving Beijing with sister one cold day--Five months of walking to Chong Qing, "Free China"--New foods in a new region-- Meeting future husband, Jiang Liang--Marriage in 1946--Leaving China on the last plane from Shanghai. [Audio File 3] ..............................................................................................................57 New life in Japan--Work ethic, high standards, great Chinese chefs. Interview #3: January 31, 2006 .......................................................................................65 [Audio File 4] ..............................................................................................................65 Coming to the United States in 1957--Getting into the restaurant business in San Francisco--Offering Chinese food beyond the usual Cantonese fare--Self confidence and hard work--Moving The Mandarin to Ghirardelli Square--Herb Caen's praise for The Mandarin in 1959; crowds arrive--Financing expansion-- Ingredients, cooking techniques, restaurant management, staff [Audio File 5] ..............................................................................................................84 The Mandarin as a part of Cecilia Chiang--Hospitality and beauty--Educating Americans about Chinese culture--Quality of service and ingredients at The Mandarin. Interview #4: February 28, 2006 ....................................................................................96 [Audio File 6] .............................................................................................................96 Customers at The Mandarin: writers, rock stars, opera singers, politicians; Japanese and Chinese visitors--Getting good ingredients--Starting cooking classes in 1972--Marion Cunningham, James Beard, Julia Child: students at Chiang’s cooking school--Opening of Beverly Hills Mandarin in 1975--Son Philip’s role in the family business--Cyril Magnin, Ben Swi--Daughter May. [Audio File7] .............................................................................................................116 Literary aspect of Chiang’s career--Working with Allen Carr--Developments on the Bay Area cooking scene--Alice Waters, James Beard, Marion Cunningham— Traveling to Europe with Waters and Cunningham--Japanese influence in California cuisine--Traveling to China and Japan with Alice Waters—Seventieth birthday party at Joseph Phelps Winery. 1 Interview 1: August 4, 2005 Begin Chiang, Cecilia 01 02-28-06.wav 1-00:00:00 Geraci: I am Victor W. Geraci, food and wine historian from the University California, Berkeley, Regional Oral History Office. Today’s date is August 4th, 2005, and seated with me is Cecilia Chiang, restaurateur and Chinese culinary expert. This interview is being conducted at Ms. Chiang’s home in Belvedere, California. As we get into this interview, I would like for our first one or two interviews just to reconstruct your life and birth. 1-00:00:34 Chiang: I was born in 1920. 1-00:00:38 Geraci: 1920. Through your years—and today’s interview I would like to get through the years of your life, just as you get in to Tokyo, you open your restaurant, just prior to your coming to America. And then in the next interview we’ll pick up from there, and your coming to America, and the restaurants, and those type of things. 1-00:00:56 Chiang: Yes. 1-00:00:56 Geraci: One of the great quotes from your book, The Mandarin Way, is: “The way of life I have set out to recapture no longer exists.” And I think that should be a theme for our interviews. Is that what you’re describing, what we’re talking about, is something that has been lost to the world, and you’re trying to hold and preserve that for future generations. 1-00:01:26 Chiang: For future generations, right. 1-00:01:26 Geraci: So starting with that, I guess the best place to begin would be—let’s start with your family and we’ll talk about your mom, your dad, and the China that they lived in. So how about if we start there? 1-00:01:40 Chiang: Alright. I was born in Wuxi, a small town near Shanghai originally. When I was about five years old, my father decided to move to Beijing. At that time, Beijing was the old capital of China. And my father had one older brother, and two older sisters. So there were four of them. Four families—they decided to all move to Beijing. That’s—those things are very unusual. We’re from the South, move to Beijing—Beijing is the North. 1-00:02:23 Geraci: What made their decision to move to the North? 2 1-00:02:24 Chiang: The decision is, they want to do something for the country. They want to work for the government. At that time, they are very proud, and want to move to Beijing, and do something for China—that had just became Republic of China. And the Qing dynasty was finished. And so no more imperialism. So, they want to do something, and that’s how they moved. The four families all moved to Beijing. 1-00:03:01 Geraci: What did your father do for a living? 1-00:03:03 Chiang: My father was an engineer—specialized in railway. 1-00:03:11 Geraci: Wow. 1-00:03:11 Chiang: And he was educated in France, so he spoke French. 1-00:03:20 Geraci: Ah, so he had his education— 1-00:03:23 Chiang: Uh huh. 1-00:03:23 Geraci: —in the Western— 1-00:03:24 Chiang: In the West, yes. 1-00:03:24 Geraci: —university system. So he spoke— 1-00:03:26 Chiang: And, so—my father got a lot of influence from his older brother. His older brother’s mind was very open, very aggressive. And he was, during the revolution time—they tried—he was with Doctor Sun Yat Sen. All the revolutionaries together. So they’re not very ordinary Chinese gentleman. [slight chuckle] They’re very broad-minded. 1-00:04:05 Geraci: So it would be fair to say that they were part of the new modern Chinese class that was burgeoning at that point? 1-00:04:10 Chiang: I think so. Right. You can say that. And so my father was working for the railway, as an engineer. That time they called the Ping Han Tie Lung. That’s the Ping Han Railway from Beijing to Han, that’s in the Hubei Province. 3 1-00:04:31 Geraci: Right. 1-00:04:31 Chiang: And, as an engineer. And then my uncle was doing some education. And he had a lot of important
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