Borderlands Dispatches from the Edge of China

城市漫步上海英文版11月份国内统一刊号: CN 11-5233/GO China Intercontinental Press Borderlands Dispatches from the Edge of China

NOVEMBER 2019

that’s Shanghai 《城市漫步》上海版英文月刊

主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社地址 : 中国北京北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心邮编 100045 Published by China Intercontinental Press Address: 11th Floor South Building, HengHua International Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing 100045, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press: 陈陆军 Chen Lujun 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department: 付平 Fu Ping 主编 Executive Editor: 袁保安 Yuan Baoan 编辑 Editor: 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili 发行 Circulation: 李若琳 Li Ruolin

Food & Drink Editor Cristina Ng National Arts Editor Bryan Grogan Production Manager Ivy Zhang 张怡然 Designers Joan Dai 戴吉莹 , Nuo Shen 沈丽丽

Contributors Waseem Abbas, Matthew Bossons, Logan R. Brouse, Danish Ejaz, Ryan Gandolfo, Phoebe Kut, Mia Li, Herlina Liu, Justine Lopez, Erica Martin, Valerie Osipov, Benjamin Plafker, Daniel Plafker, Tristan Sapp, Sophie Steiner, Tristin Zhang

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2 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Editor's Note NOVEMBER

e’s got itchy feet and Solomons takes a long-overdue coming to town (p28). Tibetan ants in his pants, does and much longed-for trip to HMatthew Bossons. When Thames Town, a surreal replica art week is on the way (p34). film is taking off (p30). Shanghai not exploring the best destina- of an English market town on the Historic Shanghai is yours to Hourly updates on news, current affairs tions in Asia, or trying to contact outskirts of Shanghai. Hilarity explore (p49). Soup is available and general weirdness from around aliens using the world’s largest (and Harry Potter sightings) to warm the cockles when the Shanghai and China. ensue (p10). The wanderlust weather turns (p56). There is Guizhou, or scuba diving through doesn’t end there – we’ve also always more food and drink to FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA China’sfilled-aperture vast underwater radio telescope cave in got a travel guide to Urumqi be enjoyed (p58). And that ir- system in Guangxi, then he’s off from our excellent Explore China repressible alcoholic Logan R. facebook.com/ThatsShanghai the edges of the Chinese empire, guide from p20. If you enjoy Brouse offers up yet more ways and nosing around in its neigh- that, the book, which covers the to get you drunk (p63). twitter.com/ThatsShanghai bors’ backyards. Find out what whole country, is available to buy youtube.com/thatsonline lies south (and north, east and by scanning the QR code on the Enjoy! west) of the border from p38. opening page of the piece. #THATSSHANGHAI A little closer to home, Aron What else? The Kooks are Ned Kelly

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 3 7 20

6 CITY 14 LIFE & STYLE 7 BIG PIGS 15 VINTAGE PRINTS Why China is breeding huge swine Lifestyle brand de shanghai

10 THAMES TOWN 20 URUMQI Putting the trip into day trip Gateway to the Northwest THE WRAP

34 56

24 ARTS 52 EAT & DRINK 28 THE KOOKS 56 SOUL SOUP Guitarist Hugh Harris Winter warmers season is nigh

34 ART ATTACK 58 NEW RESTAURANTS Art021 and West Bund Art & Design Exploring the latest openings

4 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM 38 COVER STORY THE BORDERLANDS Dipatches from the edge of China

P68

64 EVENTS

NOV 8 NOV 15-16 SAMAJAM Kids Show 2 Der Elefantenpups

NOV 15-17 DEC 1 Children’s Book Fair Allie X

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 5 CITY

Thames Town Potter Spotted, P10

Woohoo Lei! Trowing Shade P8 P9 TALES OF THE CITY 7 - - WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM As the swine population continues to population continues to As the swine scientists’ break about Chinese read To counted by 10% of the average market price. price. market 10% of the average by counted number of ASF- of a growing as a result fall and reserves pork pigs, tapping into infected schools supermarkets, the meat to supplying establishments, among other and hotels, be the main method of addressing seems to pork keep to demand. The tactic is expected the government stable while prices relatively the epidemic. address continues to African for a cure for in the search through scan the QR code. Fever, Swine One of them was adding 1,600 metric tons adding 1,600 metric tons One of them was dis circulation, into reserves pork of frozen - - In response to the growing pork crisis, crisis, pork the growing to In response In Jilin province, farmers are raising pigs raising are farmers In Jilin province, also supersizing are farms Large-scale Chunhua visited Hu Premier Vice Chinese officials in Guangdong implemented 10 meas officials in Guangdong implemented ply,” according to an official announcement an official announcement to according ply,” website. Government’s on the Central prices in September. stabilize pork to ures are still increasing as a result of the virus. as a result still increasing are than a normal heavier 75 kilograms 50 to 125 kilograms), (around weight pig’s average that the Bloomberg telling with one farmer them “as big as possible.” raise goal is to try producers protein as Chinese swine, their of their pigs, weight the average increase to than 30%, more by profits could raise which Senior Group Agriculture Bric to according . Bloomberg by cited Lin Guofa, Analyst last provinces and Henan Shandong, Hebei pig resume to farmers encourage month to sup a stable market “ensure to production -

frican Swine Fever (ASF) has taken a has taken (ASF) Fever frican Swine supply, pork on the nation’s toll major ‘go big’ and to leading some farmers were reported in China, which has which in China, reported were

, one farm owner owner , one farm Bloomberg to According Over the past year, pig farmers around around pig farmers the past year, Over

By Ryan Gandolfo By Ryan OVERSIZED OINKERS OINKERS OVERSIZED Pigs Bear-Sized Breeds Polar China as Pork Prices Surge

500 kilograms, is a part of a herd that’s ex is a part of a herd 500 kilograms, ‘swollen’ swine, which weighs approximately approximately weighs which swine, ‘swollen’ breeding pigs the size of polar bears. Pang’s pigs the size of polar bears. Pang’s breeding named Pang Cong in Nanning, Guangxi is Cong named Pang breed the heaviest swine they can manage. they swine the heaviest breed to stabilize the industry; however, pork prices pork stabilize the industry; however, to and local governments have taken measures measures taken have and local governments population over the past 14 months. Beijing population over of ASF in the country’s pig a significant drop led to population. In August 2018, the first cases 2018, the population. In August deliver on an increasingly meat-obsessed on an increasingly deliver RMB10,000 for these massive animals. these massive RMB10,000 for to the pressure been feeling have China cases, farm owners can reel in more than in more can reel owners cases, farm pected to breed more giant oinkers. In some giant oinkers. more breed to pected A THE BUZZ

DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM? Wu Lei RANDOM NUMBER The Chinese forward made history last month,

in the main stages of a European competition, asbecoming he gave theEspanyol first Chinese a 1-0 lead national over CSKAto score Moscow in the UEFA Europa League. The 39 27-year-old made an angled run to meet a … is how many billions of US dollars ball from teammate Matías Vargas and dinked Alibaba founder Jack Ma and his fam- it over goalkeeper Igor Akinfeev to put the ily are worth, according to the Hurun Barcelona side ahead in Moscow. China Rich List 2019. The annual report Espanyol ran out 2-0 winners on on China’s wealthiest folks was pub- the night. Scan the QR code to lished last month, and revealed quite a watch the goal. shakeup in the top 10. Hurun’s chief re- searcher referred to China’s wealthiest person list as a “two-horse race,” with Tencent CEO Pony Ma’s wealth valued USD2 billion short of Ma, at code to see the full list. USD37 billion. Scan the QR QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“Freedom of speech doesn’t mean freedom of consequences”

between the National Basketball Association (NBA) and China last month, whichSo said started LA Clippers after Houstonhead coach Rocket’s Doc Rivers General when Manager asked aboutDaryl Moreythe conflict tweeted about Hong Kong-related events. In response to comments made soon after by NBA commissioner Adam Silver, Chinese broadcaster CCTV decided to temporarily suspend the broadcasts of NBA preseason games

Chinese celebrities and companies also came out in opposition toand Morey’s investigate tweet all and cooperation Silver’s comments. with the NBA. For the A number latest on of the high profile NBA’s China controversy, scan the QR code.

8 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY MATTHEW BOSSONS / [email protected] 高级

isdain – we all carry so much of it going about our daily lives. We carry dis- dress, no wonder you continue to wear it so 黑 D often.”redefines You what get it. music is.” Or “What a lovely brewed coffee, dishing it out little by little There are many theories as to why gaoji- when wedain small like talk,a tumbler or pouring filled awith big chunkfreshly- of hei became the default mode for expressing it out when we meet those who despise the disdain, especially on the Internet. Some say 高级黑 verb. to throw same things as us. We carry disdain for peo- cultural emphasis on being nice forces people shade in a subtle and shielded way or even ple, companies, brands, TV shows, musicians - disguisedgaojihei / asgāojíhēi a compliment, / to backhandedly and even snacks. ers think the ‘manners education’ of “If you diss someone Shared disdain helps us make friends, don’tto shoehorn have anything criticism nice into to flattery, say, then while don’t oth say bond with each other, form communities anything at all” is to blame. Either way, the How is your new boss? - result is that the language is always seem- portance that we communicate it effectively. ingly positive, but not the sentiment – and it’s Thereand define are times identities. where It weis of can the openly utmost show im important to listen carefully. He has such a talent for stringing together our disdain with statements such as “U2 is a Conversation is the playground of the many expletives in one sentence. disgrace to music” or “I just can’t be friends wits. Always playing it straight can get boring. with people who like tomato-based hot pot,” So, the next time you feel like dissing some- while other times we have to be more tactful. thing, approach it in a more creative way and Is that gaojihei? And that is when gaojihei comes in handy. add a few curve balls to keep your audience Literally meaning ‘high level blackening,’ on their toes! Mia Li gaojihei is the sophisticated art of expressing He is very talented indeed. disdain in a subtle or tightly disguised fashion. Instead of saying “This movie is stupid,” say “How wonderful of them to make a movie just for imbeciles.” Instead of saying “I hate this album,” say “This album is so good, it

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 9 CITY | FEATURE

HARRY POTTER AND THE FAKE UK MARKET TOWN China’s Surreal Slice of Middle England on the Outskirts of Shanghai Words and Photos By Aron Solomons

hames Town is a place that I have wanted to visit ever since landing in Shanghai and Treading about it in the deepest, darkest corner of the internet – Reddit. For those that have better things to do than read about sub-par tourist destinations (jokes on you, you’re doing it right now) Thames Town was built in 2006 as part of a series of luxury European-style towns for Shanghai elites. Unfortunately, despite the developer’s best intentions, the rich of our beloved city had better ways to spend their money than on a mock Tudor house next to a knock-off version of a West England cathedral. From what can be read online, it had become quasi-empty, except for the occasional couple shooting wedding photos. But this was all hear- The lay of the land. say, because no one has ever wanted to go with me. Conversations with friends would go something like this:

Polite But Disinterested Friend: What is it exactly? Me: It’s a town on the outskirts of Shanghai that is designed to look like an English market town. PBDF: Oh right, is there anything particularly impressive about it? Me: No. Not really. PBDF: Any interesting shops or restaurants? Me: There are a few not terrible ones, according to Dianping. PBDF: Is it easy to get to? Me: About an hour by metro and then a 20 minute taxi. PBDF: Anything else? Me: I think it has a statue of Harry Potter. PBDF: I think I’ll pass. Thanks Aron.

It takes a certain type of masochist to active- ly seek out something that is seemingly pretty terrible. But a friend with a birthday and a lack really experience a taste of home just outside of Songjiang.of options wasSo England the catalyst shirts, to bowlerfind out hats if we and could made our way. full Harry Potter outfits prepared – a group of us

Possibly the only red telephone box with a China Telecom logo.

10 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

On arrival, having tormented our taxi driver with enthusiastic renditions of the Spice Girls and the Venga Boys (before someone pointed out that the latter was Dutch), there were a few immediate re- HARRY POTTER AND THE FAKE UK MARKET TOWN minders of the UK. Random red telephone boxes dotted around, alongside strange China’s Surreal Slice of Middle England on the Outskirts of Shanghai statues of random white people sitting on benches and even a Mini Cooper. This Words and Photos By Aron Solomons was unfortunately offset by a bizarre two- meter-tall transformer next to it.

English food. I know what you’re think- ing –Our who first wants mission English was food? to get It’s some like real requesting German stand up comedy. But

However, similar to how it is in the UK, thesometimes majority a ofman the wants restaurants fish and in chips. Thames Town turned out to be European. After much searching we found an ‘English style restaurant’ – The Granger & Co. After ordering a few portions of palat-

what the town had to offer. able fish and chips, we were ready to see Better than German stand up comedy.

Hoorah! We found Fish and chips!

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 11 CITY | FEATURE

In defense of Thames Town, the streets did represent a typical English market town – even if ‘Oxford Street’ resembled more a side street in a village than the UK’s most popular shopping thoroughfare. There are also statues of - thefamous random Brits statue (both ofreal Winston and fictional) Churchill,’ dot thented around. this is theSo ifplace you wantfor you. to playWe managed ‘find

The tour de force is a church slap- to find both Winston and Harry Potter. thought it was meant to be St Paul’s Cathedral,bang in the but middle after of a bittown. of researchAt first, I I discovered that it is modeled off Christ The Boy Wizard. Church in Bristol. Curious, and being Thames Town is the perfect place to play find the strange statue. a good god-fearing Christian (okay, apathetic Jew), I wanted to look inside. Would it be a real church? Or, like everything else here, a hollow tribute? Sure enough, inside were pews and, most spectacularly of all, a Chinese Jesus on the stained glass windows.Just like the inside of a church confessional booth, the domi- nant feeling in Thames Town is one of ee- rie quietness. Shanghai doesn’t do quiet. Shanghai does the opposite. And every tourist attraction is normally rammed on the weekend. Not the case here. If you look into the windows above the ground level shops, they are all empty. There is a shell of a theater that has clearly not been used in years. After a few awkward group photos, and some more photos of couples taking wedding photos, it was time to go. If you have an inner masochist that likes trying to enjoy bad things in the name of irony then Thames Town is for you. We’d had both Harry and Winston, but we can’t say anyfish ofand us chips, really posed felt close for picturesto home. with

The nearest Shanghai Metro station to Thames Town is Songjiang Xincheng on Line 9. From there you can take a 15-minute taxi. A taxi from Shanghai to Thames Town takes about an hour costs around RMB200. For a listing scan the QR code:

Look closely at the man in the yellow clothes and you can make out Chinese Jesus

12 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM AD

Look closely at the man in the yellow clothes and you can make out Chinese Jesus LIFE & STYLE

Urumqi Journey to the West, P20

Hogwarts Chic Get the Boot P16 P18 SPOTLIGHT 15 To visit the de shanghai website scan the QR code. WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Who is the ideal de shanghai customer? Who is the ideal de shanghai Our customers. pick our don’t We Everyone! pick us. customers outside of expand to plans have Do you Asia? of these special the stories tell to I’d like first, patterns so I recently floral Shanghai the showcase and shop to a gallery started people and more I’m hoping more history. – and the concept of ‘de shanghai’ can share beautiful with Shanghai’s lives their decorate history. - - lieve memory plays an important role in our role an important memory plays lieve and floral These beautiful patterns life. daily a homes have of our grandparents’ curtains memories. sentimental, sweet of evoking way this kind of memory and reconstruct I simply modern use. for feeling most popu currently are Which products lar? The shopping bag and the enamel mug – and chic. practical What sets de shanghai apart? What sets de shanghai be to is not trying de shanghai It’s different. In a fast-growing, a trend. someone or follow go wrong can’t it seems you compact city, that minimalist style with a monochromatic, But I be as fashionable. accepted is widely - - -

intuition. for daily life. I work mostly from my own own my from mostly I work life. daily for cafe’s environment and are meant to be used meant to and are environment cafe’s and many of the products I design suit the of the products and many We have a cafe located in ‘de shanghai home’ in ‘de shanghai located a cafe have We closed off to the world. The story of that de The story the world. closed off to on? lease the prints lifestyle during the time when China was was China during the time when lifestyle re to products decide which do you How Shanghainese longing for a beautiful, modern longing for Shanghainese and genuine one. a direct was sire intricate boldness was a testament to the to a testament boldness was intricate Most of the fabrics I collected were hand were I collected Most of the fabrics This bright, intricate! very designs were Shanghainese prints come about? come prints Shanghainese and bold, and the bright were The colors How did your affinity for vintage for vintage affinity did your How Revolution. made during the Cultural unfolded a unique story of Shanghai. story a unique unfolded how the fabric itself served as folk art that as folk itself served the fabric how Chongming Island, and was fascinated by by fascinated Island, and was Chongming I came across these fabrics during a visit to a visit to during these fabrics I came across designer brand. the behind started? shanghai’ We spokeWe with Daniel Sun, the cofounder and of ‘de the concept us how tell you Can enamel mugs, folders, stationery and more. prints onto an array of products ranging from reproduces charming, Old Shanghai fabric vintage prints. Lifestyle brand de shanghai There’s a certain whimsy and nostalgia about By Phoebe Kut Cofounder of de shanghai of de Cofounder DANIEL SUN STYLE RADAR COVET HOT ON TAOBAO Double’s Beer Mug We all have that friend who has graduated from beer nursing school and transferred their skills to the real world. (If you’re saying you don’t, that’s because it’s you.) Don’t get us wrong, drinking slowly is both responsible and healthier, but on some occasions, you just want to cut loose with the squad. Luckily, Taobao has the perfect product to get everyone at the party feeling a little tipsy. The double beer mug is designed to turn strangers into friends, friends into best friends and, dare we say,

Maybe that’s a stretch, but we’ve heard berets, over-the-knee socks and, of course, strangerbest friends love into stories. friends Honestly with benefits? though, Harry Potter and the the respective crests of Hogwarts’ houses this simple yet ingenious product was emblazoned on various pieces. Fans have engineered for an extra fun time drink- Order of the Peacebird been snapping up items quicker than you ing with friends. Whether you’re having Founded in 2008, Chinese streetwear brand can say wingardium leviosa, and Weibo users a beer chugging competition or playing Peacebird has already made a huge splash have been leaving comments such as, “Really Donald Trump drinking games with a on the scene, collaborating with major com- love the whole design of this series, it’s very partner (Google it), this double beer mug panies like Coca-Cola and Playboy. For its good!” So, Harry Potter fans, no need to can do it all. Bar owners have even boost- Spring/Summer 2020 season, Peacebird wait for the Sorting Hat, go on and nab your ed their revenue thanks to this tacky tool. debuted a Harry Potter-themed collection on favorite pieces with the summoning charm A Taobao user submitted a review, writing, the Parisian runway. This ready-to-wear col- before the other muggles do! “After I received the product, I arranged it lection has a strong collegiate theme running on top of the bar, patrons really like it and throughout, with oversized cardigans, black > Scan with the Taobao app to shop. beer sales have increased. When customers use it to drink beer, they’ll post it on Douyin and it goes viral. Everyone looks UNDER THE LENS for my bar; it’s clear that the number of customers has increased. One set isn’t Anime Inspired double beer mugs in various shapes and sizesenough, online I’m ordering– some even 10.” glow You canin the find dark. of the Creed franchise and Black Panther, has just launched aAn capsule unlikely collection duo or the with perfect Coach match? that is Michaelentirely B.Naruto Jordan,- star but remember – drink responsibly. The themed. This collection is more than just another collabora- doubleWe’ll let beer you mugfigure is allavailable that out on for Taobao yourself, from RMB36-89.7. piecetion; it of is [his] a personal childhood, statement adult life for andJordan. [source The of]star creativity” and avid > Scan the QR code with the Taobao app to shop. inanime an interview fan credited with the Highsnobiety. Japanese animation form as a “big

Tsunade.Jordan’s Additionally, menswear backpacks, line features totes, a T-shirt boots, with sneakers the and fannyoriginal packs Konoha feature trio the characters Uchiha Sharingan.of Jiraiya, Orochimaru and “I wanted something that people who loved anime would be able to pick up on – small

the-top, but you still get it in the lining of certain jackets, or a print on some of the tote bags.” Easter eggs here and there that people really grab on to,” says Jordan. “It’s subtle. It’s not over- completely validated anime for us. It makes people not want to keep it in their room;With it makes Jordan them bringing want anime to blurt to itthe out forefront and be proud.”of fashion, Viz Media’s Alex Lee reflects, “It’s

an animated web series called gen:LOCK. This is not the only anime project Jordan has been involved in; he also stars in > Scan the QR code to shop.

16 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM TAP THAT APP 1919 When it comes to food delivery, it’s clear that Dianping, Meituan and Ele.me have a com- manding lead among other apps. However, what if you’re looking to order wine and spir-

With nearly 1,800 stores operating in overits? That’s 500 Chinese 1919’s cities,domain. 1919 is an online- store and same-day app delivery. The alcohol specialiststo-offline (O2O) offer adrink wide retailer, range of accessible wine and via spirits (domestic and imported), as well as a variety of domestic, imported and craft beer. Last year, 1919 received a RMB2-billion hit RMB7 billion this year. Prices are quite reasonable as well – at least investment from Alibaba, which has been One drawback to 1919’s app – liquor de- for imported spirits like vodka, whiskey, rum, used to continue expanding the company’s livery ends around 9pm (depending on your gin, etc. This aspect, along with an easy-to- presence in the Middle Kingdom. Aside from nearest location), meaning stock up early or use app, make 1919 your best option if you’re - you’ll be relegated to the neighborhood con- looking to make a boozy purchase. vided support in e-commerce and logistics, venience store for a liquor run. A popular feature on the 1919 app that amongfinancial other stimulus, crucial the areas, tech togiant further has alsoexpand pro has helped differentiate it from other alcohol the business. > 1919 is available on iOS and Android devices. The Chengdu-based online drinks retailer has grown at a rapid pace since it was found- Bordeauxretailers is for its RMB70. flash sale And marketplace. with Singles’ You Day can ed in 1998; the platform’s revenue reached takingfind some place serious this month, deals, likeexpect two some bottles quality of RMB3.3 billion in 2017, and is projected to flash sales to pop off. AD

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 17 LIFE & STYLE | FASHION THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR

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18 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FASHION | LIFE & STYLE

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 19 LIFE & STYLE | TRAVEL URUMQI By Daniel Plafker

estled in a valley amidst the majestic unique geography at the impressively curated peaks of the Tianshan range of moun- Xinjiang Museum. Those who venture further Ntains, Urumqi forms the enigmatic capital of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region and will be rewarded with crystal clear mountain is a gateway for explorers to China’s expansive afield to take in Xinjiang’s pristine wilderness- Northwest. With a population of 3.5 million, the city, lakes, rolling pastures and floral meadows dif which takes its name from a Mongolian Oirats ficult to find elsewhere in the realm. word for ‘beautiful pasture,’ boasts the title of largest urban center in all of Central Asia and stands as a melting pot of cultures that epito- mizes the rich diversity of the region. The northern half of the modern metropolis is home to an increasingly industrious CBD, along with many of Urumqi’s Han Chinese majority. The southern quarter, meanwhile, Looking for more expert tightly clustered around the lively Erdaoqiao guides to China’s biggest cities neighborhood, is the traditional home of the

city’s Uyghur community and where many of Scan the QR code now to the city’s historic markets, mosques and scenic purchaseand hottest our destinations?Explore China byways can be found. travel guide, which offers Urumqi’s vibrant ethnic diversity is mir- insider tips, detailed city rored by a varied climate that greets visitors guides and awesome day trips. with a different face depending on the season, from frigid, even snowy winters to bright and sunny summers that see the area’s lushly for- ested hillsides and airy mountain meadows burst into bloom.

delicious cuisine at the innumerable evening streetVisitors stalls, toride the on city the can commercial relish in varied currents and of enduring Silk Road trading traditions at the iconic Grand Bazaar, enjoy moments of contemplative serenity in Urumqi’s quiet parks and discover the region’s fascinating history and

20 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM TRAVEL | LIFE & STYLE

Grand Bazaar and Erdaoqiao Neighborhood

Don’t be fooled by the admittedly impressive traditional Central Asian architectural features – while the Urumqi International Grand Bazaar is clearly meant to look historic, it was in fact built in 2002. In many ways, this complex of attractive brickwork buildings is all but designed to be an overpriced tourist trap, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth a visit. Wandering the numerous stalls and corridors is a perfect way to give yourself a primer on some of the wondrous things that the region has to offer. Raisins from Turpan, melons from Hami, lavender from Yili, instruments from Kashgar, knives from Yengisar and jade from Hotan are all sold under the same great roof. For a small fee, you can also ascend the handsome tower at the bazaar’s center, which offers instructive views of the surrounding neighborhood. Rather than buy-

wander of the surrounding streets and alleys. Here in Erdaoqiao, the geographicing anything heart here of at Urumqi’s inflated prices, traditional venture Uyghur out of community, the bazaar afor very a different side of city life is on display. Furthermore, many of the same products on sale at the bazaar can be found at the local Erdaoqiao Market for a fraction of the price. Red Hill Park

a striking 1,391-meter-high cliff face that’s so iconic it has becomeHongshan a symbol Park is ofcentered Urumqi around itself. A the visit magnificent to this impressive Red Hill, topographical feature offers breathtaking views of the city, destination to ground and orient oneself on a visit to Urumqi orwhich, a contemplative along with its sunset central overlook location, to makescap off it a abusy perfect day firstof urban exploration. The hill is crowned by the handsome, 25-meter-tall Zhen Long Pagoda – a painstakingly preserved picture-perfect evening tableaus at dusk. Also on the hilltop isnine-story the historic edifice Yu Huang dating Ge back temple. to the Once Yuan home Dynasty to hundreds that creates of Buddhist monks, the now-quiet sanctuary remains a worth- while touristic site. Though it may be hard to believe looking at the lush hillsides, Hongshan was once a brown and barren mountain, until a decades-long reforestation campaign by the local government transformed it into a bastion of greenery at the heart of the city.

Xinjiang Museum and Loulan Mummies

Each provincial-level administrative division in China has a dedicated museum in its capital city and Xinjiang is no exception. In fact, the Xinjiang Museum just north of Urumqi’s center stands out for its comprehensiveness, modern design and impressive rigor. Entry is free, of course, and special care has been taken to translate many of the signs and plaques into English. The Silk Road Exhibit outlines the unique role of this region as a trade corridor and vital cultural link between East and West throughout the centuries. Meanwhile, the Ethnic Nationalities Exhibit lays out the histories, customs and daily lifeways of all 13 of Xinjiang’s distinct ethnic groups. The main draw, however, is none other than the museum‘s collection of Xinjiang’s world-famous mummies. Among them, the

1980 from the hot, dry sands of Loulan, this ancient woman’s body, which lies prominentlyhaunting, decay-defying displayed in figure a glass of case, the ‘Loulan is one of Beauty’ the oldest stands and out. best Excavated preserved in in the world. Unlike Egyptian mummies, which are the product of deliberate and complex procedures intended to combat rot, the Loulan Beauty owes her well- preserved hair and features to the bone-dry conditions of the desert sands that

formed her final resting place.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 21 LIFE & STYLE | TRAVEL

Laghman A delicious tradition that many believe

highest possible form, laghman are hand- pulledrepresents noodles wheat served flour with elevated meat to and its vegetables – a dish that proudly straddles Hui Muslim and Uyghur cuisine. Watching the chef expertly stretch, swing and slap the dough into heavenly strands of starchy satisfaction is half the fun in ordering this Northwestern specialty. Find yourself having slurped down the last of your noodles but still have a plate-

to ‘jiamian’ and most Urumqi laghman jointsful of savory will top sauce? you up Holler with aat reinforce your waiter- ment of fresh noodles at little to no cost.

Yangrouchuanr Few sensations are more evocative of Urumqi than the smoky whiff of street- side shish kebabs roasting over coals on a balmy evening. The long steel skewers of bite-sized mutton morsels alternate tantalizingly between lean meat and fat. Sprinkled decadently with powdered chili and aromatic cumin, these iconic meat TIANCHI batons set a global standard for pleasure- on-a-stick. Best enjoyed with a cool, salty glass of Uyghur yogurt or soothing camel’s

kindle. milk to quiet the oral fires that they tend to

Dapanji

Elsewhere in China, there are few dishes more closely associated with the exotic Northwestern frontier than big-plate chicken, or dapanji. Here in Xinjiang, the dish is available far and wide – both in halal restaurants catering to the region’s Muslim residents and the Chinese-style eateries popular among Han transplants. Local legend has it that this savory stew of chicken, potatoes, bell peppers, to- matoes and onions, seasoned with chilies and

a Sichuanese migrant as something to serve tocumin, passing was truckers first concocted plying the in the regions 1990s high by - ways. Best enjoyed with a side of local nang

shards to soak up the stew’s rich juices. flatbread, which can be torn up into doughy

22 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM TRAVEL | LIFE & STYLE

TIANCHIFor all of its charms, can attempt a highly strenuous home-cooked meals (albeit for a Xinjiang’s busy capital city can swinging throngs. Tianchi’s 8-kilometer uphill trek to the start to feel like a heaving, sti- fameunder and the popularity, weight of selfie-stick- however, is summit). nonetheless well deserved, and Regardless of your chosen negotiationheavily-inflated can secureprice). aTempted berth in intense exploration. Luckily, one - mode of ascent, the last stretch ato Kazakh stick around? yurt together Some shrewd with din - needfling scrumnot travel after far a fewfrom days Urumqi of ity, it is not hard to dodge the of road will need to be done on ner. It’s not the height of luxury, to get a taste of the pristine huddledwith a little masses finesse for and a taste creativ of but it’s sure to be warm enough, natural beauty that the region is alpine serenity. crested and the lake comes into and sleeping in a nomadic known for. A two-hour drive from view,foot, and it’s easyonce tothe see final what ridge all theis dwelling on the slopes of the Some will scoff that Tianchi, Urumqi’s city center will bring fuss is about. Tianshan Range is an unforget- the famed ‘Heavenly Lake’ that you to the gate of the massive The bright, clear waters of table experience which, despite sits like a crater of placid crys- nature reserve that contains this nearly 2-kilometer high the seemingly mismatched price tal in the depths of the misty Tianchi. Here, visitors will need tag, won’t set you back any more Tianshan Range, has become so to pay a hefty entrance fee ‘Heavenly’ title by a Qing Dynasty than a night at a hotel in the city. canonical a destination on the before transferring to electric militarycrater-lake commander were first garrisoned given their Chinese tourism circuit that a buses for an equally expensive in the area more than two centu- visit here must be tantamount 30-minute bus ride to the top ries ago. Tianchi’s surface spans to masochistic self-smothering (though hiking enthusiasts roughly 5 square kilometers of frosty aquamarine and is more than 100 meters deep at its deepest point. Take time to wander the How to Get There banks of this breathtaking moun- Seats on coaches to Tianchi tain lagoon. It won’t take long can be secured on the spot at before the crowds are far behind the gate of Urumqi’s People’s you and the silence of the high Park. The two-hour journey forest comes into focus. Small takes you east towards the paths lead off to various smaller town of Fukang and then ponds and waterfalls and a picnic south towards the foot of the lunch can be enjoyed in the stony mountain. Budget RMB280 stillness. per person for round-trip Alternatively, the Kazakh families who still call the nature transport and park entry fees. reserve home offer traditional

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 23 ARTS

Rise and Shine Indie Rock Icons The Kooks Continue to Charm a Decade After Their Debut, P28

Letter Records Pema Tseden Music Corner P25 P30 P37 DRUMROLL 25 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM have you talk a bit about what you Could the future? in Records up for Letter lined planning a performance are we In December, come. details to in Shanghai, at Yuyintang some more release also planning to We’re released already music. The bands that have and Beijing, Chengdu with us – from Shanghai come to going to Guangzhou – are 2-D Foil, Dream, Summer Your perform. to pop as new jangle as well Cheers The Cheers called All Records-style band with a Sarah Days. The Romantic To learn more about Letter Records, scan the QR code: How do you record the music on the the music on record do you How releases? but, bedroom, music in my make to I like to label, some of the bands prefer on my sometimes a music in a studio. So, it’s make of both. mixture started you talk about when you Can Records? Letter of May around Records Letter founded We for a platform make to wanted We this year. people can music so that more underground make to wanted find this type of music. We not to, listen people to for music that is easy but is easy, music that because people like making that music. like because we underground on opinion What’s your music in China? quite big. There’s scene is quite Shanghai’s a bit going on and a lot of big bands from In regularly. Shanghai outside come to scene as well, strong Beijing, it has its own of. Bands sure Guangzhou, I’m not too while a DIY music and quite like really there down over way their bands make lot of Hong Kong Guangzhou. to

their music. their interested, we ask them to send us a demo of to ask them we interested, and then we contacted them. If they are are them. If they contacted and then we online. For example, we found 2-D Foil online Foil 2-D found we example, online. For bands and organizing releases. releases. bands and organizing other bands and then I find bands that I like, things, while I’m responsible for finding for I’m responsible things, while friends’ among my I pick from Usually responsible for the art and design side of for responsible releases? for your bands find do you How connected with each other online. He’s with each other online. He’s connected guitarist from Pocari Sweet, Jueer. We We Jueer. Sweet, Pocari from guitarist same. Me and a Guangzhou friend, the Just two. about music development weren’t exactly the exactly weren’t about music development label? spirit when it comes to music. So, our ideas it comes to when spirit the on working people are many How now, whereas I have a more underground underground a more I have whereas now, more interested in growing its bands right its bands right in growing interested more underground. Shengjian Records became Shengjian Records underground. I always want to make music that is more music that is more make to want I always Records and start Letter Records? Records? and start Letter Records Why did you choose to leave Shengjian leave choose to did you Why plans for Letter Records. Records, his opinion on bedroom rock in China and upcoming up with Cao to talk about his decision to leave Shengjian constructed EP from Pocari Sweet singer Siyu. caught We novel of the same name) and more recently a gorgeously dreamy lo-fi duo Peking Picnic (named after the Ann Bridge has already put out four releases in 2019, including one by the with a new underground label called Letter Records. The label Cheers Cheers and a music producer. Nowadays, working he’s Shengjian Records, as well as guitarist with cultish band The previously been a main force behind excellent indie label Nick Cao is a fixture on the Shanghai music scene, having By Bryan Grogan By Bryan Nick Cao, Looks Cao, Future the to Nick Founder of New Underground Label, of New Founder LETTER RECORDS See the QR codes on this page? Scan them with the That's App when you see it on an article to find more multimedia, photos and videos related to the feature you are COLLAGE reading. Genius, eh? Download the That's App at www.thatsmags.com/app COMING TO A THEATER NEAR YOU TRANSCRIBED “I can really celebrate the life of my motherland with so many people. I am really touched! Me

NOV and my country can’t be 8 separated for a moment” Pets United That’s what one Douban user said about patri- This animated co-production between Germany otic smash hit My People, My Country which is divided into seven parts, celebrates owners from an evil would-be ruler who wants the history of the PRC and was released. The film, toand replace China humanssees a group with of robots. pets fight Sure, to it’s save unlikely their The to be as good as The Secret Life of Pets, but, hey, Captain and The Climbers dayalongside of their another release, pair obliterating of patriotic the films, previous record for September 30 (RMB280 million). and this one represents the best opportunity to . The three combined to take home RMB630 million on just the first bringit’s an the unusually kids to slowthe cinema month this for Chinesemonth. film,

HAO BU HAO Hao Ne Zha was announced as China’s selection for Best International Feature Film at the 92nd Oscars. The animated blockbuster, which has raked in almost RMB4.7 - The Wandering Earth. Ninety- fourbillion countries at the box sent office, submissions got the nod to the as China’sAcademy submis for this year’ssion ahead awards, of sci-fi with flick a record 93 submissions accepted for

Academy Award selection committee, which will vote in consideration. The films will be considered by an official-

NOV a secret ballot to create a 10-film short list, before select 15 ing five official nominees for the Oscar. The coming10 short-listed in January. films will be announced on Hunt Down December 16, with the cut to five nominees This historical crime thriller, starring When Larry Met Mary actress Jiao Junyan, sees a Bu Hao a history professor. Reading like a cross be- Celebrated Beijing hutong gallery Arrow Factory closed female police officer investigatingNational herTreasure father, its doors at the end of September after 11 and a half and the Ocean’s Eleven - tween the Nick Cage film years. The news came as art districts and galleries are struggling to survive in the capital city, with a number of stolen national relics, in series, a case the which film sees fol artists evicted from the popular Luomahu and Huantie herlows father Jiao’s positionedcharacter as as she a prime attempts suspect. to find art districts in July. It also follows the ominous warn- ing by Pace Gallery founder Arne Glimcher after the art space was forced to shut its Beijing location, saying, “It’s impossible to do business in mainland China right now and it has been for a while.”

26 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY BRYAN GROGAN / [email protected]

SINO CELEB Jin Xing Jin Xing, or Venus in English, is a transgender dancer and choreographer from China who is celebrated for her highly-acclaimed choreo-

modern dance choreographer on the international stage, Jin returned tographic China works. and hosted Having two received popular recognition talk shows as in aShanghai. talented andToday, prolific television viewers can often see her as a judge in various talent shows, where she is well-liked for her detailed comments. Below, we give you Top-Notch Dancer She started dancing with a People’s Liberation Army troupe as a 9-year-old, and learned modern dance in five facts about the famed dancer. New York in her 20s. Jin has enjoyed a lifelong career as Mother of Three Together with her German husband, the oneFirst of Marriage China’s first-rate modern dancers. dance phenom has adopted three children. Prior to transitioning, Jin married her female roommate at the age of 28 while studying in New York. Their marriage lasted for 10 years. Hukou Dilemma Due to her spouse’s nationality, Jin was unable to reg- ister her adopted children under her hukou, China’s Talk Show Host ‘internal passport.’ She eventually chose to divorce her Jin has hosted two successful talk shows, husband, although the two continued to live together Venus Mars and The Jin Xing Show, both afterwards, and eventually remarried. of which were aired on Shanghai Dragon Television.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 27 ARTS | MUSIC RISE AND SHINE Indie Rock Icons The Kooks Continue to Charm a Decade After Their Debut By Valerie Osipov

28 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS

he British rock renaissance that domi- What are you most excited for while Let’s Go Sunshine came out just last year nated the early 2000s gave birth to a touring in China? after Hello, What’s Your Name? in 2015. number of iconic bands, such as The What were The Kooks up to in that three- T This will be our third visit to China. [We’re] Libertines, the Arctic Monkeys and Bloc year gap between albums? looking forward to performing for all our Party. These groups have cemented them- fans and bringing love and positivity through I spent that time traveling in India, meditat- our music. I also can’t wait to eat traditional ing and doing yoga – getting the intention set the test of time and following us from playlist Chinese food and practice my Mandarin. in my life. I was young when we started the toselves playlist. as essential ‘landfill indie,’ surviving band, and I needed to do some catching up Among such groups is The Kooks. with things internally. I also worked lots on Formed in Brighton in 2004, the rockers Being a defining symbol of a nostalgic era my solo record, which is going to come out of indie, how have you evolved as a band early next year. It’s kind of orchestral soul- Inside In/Inside Out in 2006, which included over the years? pop music recorded in my spare time over darlingfirst stole tracks hearts like with ‘Naïve’ their and debut ‘She album Moves in It’s an honor to be a source of nostalgia for a eight years and across four continents. Her Own Way.’ The pop record would come generation and we treasure that deeply, but it’s also important to evolve and keep mov- and was accompanied by such buzz (it went Most recently, you put out a new single ing creatively. We have grown up with our quadrupleto define the platinum feel-good in soundthe UK) of that The the Kooks, band titled ‘So Good Looking’ this summer, fans and acquired some new younger ones went on to record a live acoustic version at which undeniably captures that Abbey Road Studios (you know the one) just quintessential sound of your debut our identity to gain relevance to suit a new a year later. record. Tell us a bit about the track and generation.along the way, but we have never sacrificed Their follow-up releases, 2008’s Konk what inspired it. and 2011’s Junk of the Heart, continued to It’s more of a return to format for us. We charm, solidifying the band as a bright and Your first album, Inside In/Inside Out, wanted to make something that was part of breezy soundtrack for teenage youth, with was so formative and a smashing success. - upbeat guitar riffs and effortlessly catchy Do you often find yourselves trying to most pastiche ourselves. Our fans loved it! choruses about falling in and out of love. recreate that magic sound of your early our refined essence and so we decided to al Having gone through a few shifts in core material or embracing new directions? What was it like putting together a members, including the departure of their That magic you speak of is something every greatest hits album so early in your original bassist and founding drummer Paul artist tries to recreate. That’s the juice and it musical career? Garred, the band is currently comprised of needs squeezing regularly. Sometimes fruit is vocalist Luke Pritchard, Hugh Harris on lead It was surprising and exciting to be asked low hanging and sometimes it’s not. This de- guitar and Alexis Nunez on drums. to do that by our label and also extremely pends on many things being in place – men- After a decade of studio albums and hard to pick the songs! I guess that’s a good tal health, a support network and inspiration. experimenting with new sounds, followed thing. People listen to music in compilations by a three-year hiatus, the trio compiled a these days anyhow, cherry picking their way greatest hits record dubbed The Best Of… Speaking of Inside In/Inside Out – you through catalogues on streaming platforms. So Far, featuring sweet singles like ‘Ooh La’ recorded a live version of the album at I do feel young compared to other greatest and ‘Junk of the Heart (Happy).’ Their latest Abbey Road Studios in 2005. Was that hits artists, but I wouldn’t describe that as a album Let’s Go Sunshine, which they put out a dream come true for the band at that negative thing. last year, marked The Kooks’ return to the point? spotlight and saw the beloved indie rockers Are there any older tracks you get tired of Making an album as a band is a dream come continuing to experiment with styles. playing live? true in any studio, and the opportunity to This month, The Kooks embark on do so at Abbey Road was humbling. It’s an Honestly, I never get tired of playing any [of a China tour with stops in Beijing and expensive studio to work at, and you are con- our] songs (except perhaps in rehearsals). I Shanghai. We caught up with guitarist Hugh sistently reminded of the achievements of don’t allow myself to get bored of them live Harris to talk about the band’s monumental projects that have happened there. It’s some- and personally, if I feel that emotion coming music career and what it feels like being a times hard to focus on what you are actually on, then I change what I’m playing to keep it glimmering emblem of indie rock nostalgia. doing with all that looming in the back- interesting. That’s my duty as a performer. ground. It felt at times like we were recording in some kind of museum with a gift shop, not a studio. I would love to go back there 50 Nov 15, 8.30pm; RMB320 presale, RMB400 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010) or 60 years ago and be a fly on the wall. Scan the QR code below for tickets:

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 29 ARTS | FILM

TEMPERAMENT Pema Tseden Stands At the Forefront of a Growing Contingent of Tibet Filmmakers By Bryan Grogan

ibet, a region of undeniable beauty, ing The Silent Holy Stones, but it was his 2015 soaring mountain peaks and harsh feature, Tharlo, that catapulted him to global Tseden’sfilm, called background it a poignant, in literature. vibrant and Tseden poetic Tlandscapes, is becoming a vital center film with literary strands, stemming from for cinematic experimentation in China. With 72nd edition of the Venice Film Festival. based in a sparse region of the world. Talking established names and young directors crop- recognition, with the film premiering at the aboutuses austere the story means and theto craft process a gorgeous behind filmmak - solitude to modernization and beyond, it was ing it, Tseden tells us, “The entire production - notableWhile the for film its lowtakes budget, in topics a hallmark ranging fromof Tibet ping up with celebrated films at international cycle took more than a year, and the inspiration was accidental. One winter a few years film festivals around the world, Tibet has con around arthouse cinema. ago, I was walking on the streets of Beijing tributedAt the some forefront of the of best Tibet Chinese cinema art is films Pema of filmmaking,Speaking which to this currently phenomenon, tends Tsedento revolve the past five years. tells us, “Because of factors such as the mar- was attracted to it. It felt like a good one. The Tibetan student. Tseden was born in Qinghai and saw a balloon flying in the wind and I inTseden, 1969 Beijingand studied Film TibetanAcademy’s language first-ever and ket environment and the maturity of the film imagery of the film slowly made this image industry, the main body of filmmakers is still the story.” for minorities, Northwest Minzu University, This year, Tseden’s new feature, Balloon, related to the Tibetan land and fictionalized formerlyliterature known at China’s as Northwest first higher University institute for developing in the direction of art films.” Nationalities, before going on to pursue stud- around the world. Also debuting at the ies in cinema. Venicehas been Film turning Festival, heads Balloon at film has festivals already

The Screen Awards for Best Feature Film and SilentTseden Holy Stones broke. ontoLike themany filmmaking of Tseden’s scene picked up nominations at the Asia Pacific with a bang in 2002, with his first movie like So Long My Son by Wang Xiaoshuai, A passionate lama (a teacher of the dharma FirstBest Screenplay,Farewell by joiningWang Lina other and Chinese Dwelling films in infilms, Tibetan this sparseBuddhism) tale follows based in a curiousthe Tibetan and the Fuchun Mountains by Gu Xiaogang. The region. The Silent Holy Stones picked up an award for Best Directorial Debut at the Tibetan region. The balloon in question is a prestigious Golden Rooster Awards, while film revolves around a farming family in the- set of China’s one-child policy period in the around China. earlycondom, ‘80s, as exploring the film takes complex place questions at the out of alsoTseden snagging continued awards atplying smaller his filmtrade festivals in the faith, family and society in the mountains of - Tibet at the time. Variety, in its review of the industry, releasing a number of films follow

30 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FILM | ARTS

While Tseden’s name may be the most and around Tibet today, perhaps a result of recognizable of those working with film in the New York Times, South China Morning Post andprofiles more, written his is oncertainly the director not the by only the one.likes A of frequent collaborator with Tseden on his ear- director Sonthar Gyal has also been making wavesly films, for cinematographer, his own cinematic screenwriter contributions and since 2011. Gyal’s debut, The Sun-Beaten Path, tells the story of a guilt-ridden farmer who struggles with killing his mother in a road acci-

Film Festival, and picked up the now-discon- tinueddent. The Dragons film was and screened Tigers Award at the for Vancouver Young Cinema, which was given out to emerging indirectors Tsolho fromTibetan the Autonomous Asia-Pacific region.Prefecture in Fascinated by film as a child growing up as a youngster, even making his own make- shiftQinghai projectors. province, He Gyal has collected also spoken scraps about of film that there was just one cinema in his home- townfilm culture while hein previouswas growing interviews, up. saying This speaks to the idea that cinema and province is young and underdeveloped, with folksfilm culture still experiencing in regions likea scarcity Tibet andof cinemas. Qinghai However, in recent years things have been improving dramatically, with more emphasis being placed on recording the life and daily rituals of people living in these areas, while also giving back to the community by way of festivals like First Film Festival, which takes place in Qinghai’s capital, Xining, each year.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 31 ARTS | FILM

A previous participant at First Film small step, but one that may prove in- - maker who is shining a light on the cultureFestival, of Lhapal Tibetan Gyal minorities is another in filmChina. fluential in opening up the scope of the Just like Sonthar Gyal, Lhapal Gyal has topicsregion’s related minority to the art Tibet films. region As we andsay, previously worked with Tseden as an peoplethe number is by ofno filmmakers means large, working but those on assistant director. His feature length working within this small circle are op- debut came in the form of Wangdrak’s timistic for the future. Speaking to the Rain Boots, a story about the small joys - such simplicity, stole hearts around the riencedcontinued a development development process of Tibet from film, worldof childhood. at globally That renowned film, surrounded festivals by scratchTseden tellsin the us, past “Tibetan few years. film hasOf course, expe like Berlin International Film Festival and Vancouver International Film it is a very good thing. Now, some young Festival. peoplethis process from isdifferent very difficult. Tibetan But areas overall Lhapal Gyal’s approach, creating are also working hard in this direction,

and for children (and adults, as well), and hoping to gain some achievements a film that is distinctly about children hoping to use film as their future career, straying away from more somber and good momentum for emerging Tibetan austeremarks newer topics territory explored for by TibetTseden film, and movies.”and recognition in this field. This is Sonthar Gyal to create the lighthearted and bright Wangdrak’s Rain Boots. A

32 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ADVERTORIAL | ARTS A NEW ERA Shanghai Circus World Just Got a Beautiful New Makeover

fter 14 months of renovations, Shanghai In addition to the tree in the center, there are 13 Circus World has taken on a whole new columns around the hall and 96 light belts around Alook. As part of the makeover, the popular the tree, which create an array of different light tourist attraction now boasts beautifully upgraded - theaters that are equipped with even more high- works blossoming and shining in the sky. Hence tech elements that rival the world’s most ad- effects. From a distance, the scene looks like fire vanced theaters. The new and improved Shanghai The theater’s stage facilities also received large-scalethe name ‘fireworks’. reconstruction and upgrading. The October. stage now features more than 300 sets of lights in CircusIn orderWorld to officially celebrate opened the new to thelook public of Shanghai on 1st addition to upgraded sound systems, multimedia Circus World and meet the demand of audiences technology and high-tech performance equip- at home and abroad, the classic production ‘Era – ment. These top of the line features can adapt to different performance elements, especially when season. it comes to acrobatic performances. IntersectionThe revamped of Time’ building has now now returned features for 1,400 its final The seats of the theater are all updated and color-changing star lights on the outside of the designed by a world-renowned Japanese seat ‘golden pineapple’ sphere-shaped structure. The manufacturer. The appearance, material and color stars dot the gold dome and can change colors to echo the overall theme and style of the theater and make it truly shine. The installation of this 1,400- has a simple color system of black, grey and gold. star lighting system was indeed a technological Since its debut at Shanghai Circus World feat. in 2005, ‘Era – Intersection of Time’ has been The design of the dome-shaped theater was performed for 14 consecutive years and won inspired by the theme of ‘light.’ Not only do the numerous awards. After its last performance in stars illuminate the sphere, but the projected the ‘ERA castle’ on 22rd September , 2019, the lights around the main building have been re- designed to highlight the main structure, creating a dazzling display. October.show officially Being returnedable to return to the to newly its new renovated and im- The performance information A giant ‘tree’ is located right in the middle of provedShanghai home Circus base World is the for perfect its final sendoff season for on what 1st Address: 2266 Gonghe Xin Lu, has been a wildly popular show for the over a dec- by Guangzhong Lu The tree was created using the theater hall’s Telephone: 6652 7750 originalthe theater pillar. hall, After as part several of the rounds theme: of fireworks.design com - months and will allow Chinese and foreign audi- Website: www.era-shanghai.com encesade. The to experiencefinal season the of theclassic show performance will run for in four the Time: 1st October , 2019 to make the towering tree the centerpiece of the hall. elegant Shanghai Circus World. 31st January , 2020, parisons,The wooden Shanghai trunk Circus and World branches finally of thedecided tree to The season began on 1st October and will run 7.30pm every night are adorned with roughly 56 light belts, totaling through 31st January, 2020. After that,Shanghai (closed Monday) 1,300 meters. Just like the stars on the exterior Circus World will unveil a brand new show of ERA, of the theater, the tree’s lights can also be pro- which is planned to be performed publicly at the grammed to create all sorts of amazing effects. end of April 2020.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 33 ARTS | GALLERY SHANGHAI ART WEEK What To Expect from Art021 and West Bund Art & Design By Bryan Grogan

his year has been a tough one for arts in China, with a number of notable closures in Beijing over the past few months, and the continuing political situation in Hong Kong leading to the cancellation of Asia Contemporary Art Show in Spring 2020. T That said, fairs and festivals continue to grow and become more common throughout major cities. Shanghai Art Week returns from November 7-10 with a number of new galleries set to debut at Art021 at Shanghai Exhibition Center and West Bund Art & Design. Here’s what you need to know going into the week.

Art021 Taking place at Shanghai Exhibition Center over the course of four days, Art021 brings together 110 galleries from 18 countries and 57 cities. Seventy percent of the galleries that will take part in the fair have a presence in China or Asia, making Art021 a vitally important arena in which to reach out to new audiences. Fans of contemporary art can enjoy sections like ‘Detour,’ ‘Beyond’ and ‘Approach,’ with each of these sections allowing something a little bit different. ‘Detour’ investigates Euro-American geographic networks and narratives, dwelling this time on the Silk Road route, following in Marco Polo’s journey through Eurasia, with 12 invited galleries from Asia and Europe. ‘Beyond’ allows for larger art works by placing them outside of the fair, with this year’s edition expanding to take in more commercial complexes throughout Shanghai. Finally, ‘Approach’ gives a platform for young, upcoming galleries, with 18 galleries taking part this year, including PeKIN Fine Arts from Beijing, Vin Gallery from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam and 02art from Beijing.

Nov 7-10 (Nov 7/8 are invitation only), 11am-6pm; RMB100. Shanghai Exhibition Center, 1000 Yan’an Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Lu 延安中路1000号, 近陕西路

Scan the QR code for tickets:

34 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM GALLERY | ARTS SHANGHAI ART WEEK What To Expect from Art021 and West Bund Art & Design By Bryan Grogan West Bund Art & Design Coinciding with the long-awaited opening of West Bund Museum and equipped with a brand-new logo, the sixth edition of West Bund Art & Design welcomes 98 galleries from 18 different countries, including 28 galleries who will take

Additionally, famed art and architecture book publisher TASCHENpart for the will first appear time. at West Bund Art & Design with their publication David Hockney. My Window. This will also mark

set to open an online shop on Alibaba’s T-Mall. the publisher’sBeloved sections first foray of the into fair the will Chinese return mainland,again. ‘ArtReview as it gets Asia Xian Chang,’ which gives space to larger and more complex installation work, will be present, while Dream Video 100 will also make a return. Finally, there’s no such thing as too many art museums, right? The long-awaited opening of West Bund Museum will take place during Shanghai Art Week. Teaming up with famed Parisian art complex, Centre Pompidou, they are opening with a huge exhibition called The Shape of Time, made up of over 100 works from the Centre Pompidou, acting as an in- troduction to the French complex’s vast history.

Nov 7-10, check the event schedule for individual times; West Bund Art & Design Center, 2555 Longteng Dadao, Xuhui District 龙腾大道2555 号, 近龙耀路

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 35 - - - - , I’ve heard people heard Milo, I’ve Little For I’m in a film called The Eight from left-leaning film festivals say that say film festivals left-leaning from it because of the end take can’t they ist called Tony, who is recording the is recording who ist called Tony, at camera battle, I use my whole Japanese from block myself times to shoot me trying to soldiers that are I think that the fact Honestly, down. Film the Shanghai it got pulled from media cover and the whole Festival, it age that accompanied that, makes a blessing in disguise. It’s an amazing my for 22 days filming for film. I was amazing, because I was it was role, it was Since doing something I like. cut they’ve what pulled I’m not sure in it, much I’ll be and how but I’m re it. to looking forward ally ing, because of what it is saying, and it is saying, ing, because of what it will be that’s ok. I think in the future the thing – if a cult classic. And here’s film is good, if your know to want you ask your art is good, don’t and your ask relatives, ask your friends, don’t has no dog in the race. who somebody stranger. ask a total In other words, is based on the 1937 , which Hundred a journal I play Battle of Shanghai. - - , my main role main role Shanghai Storyor , my as It originated is as an actor. years a short film about four The story represents a journey a journey represents The story ger budget; we actually have a crew a crew have actually ger budget; we just me, Andrej was The short now. and Emilie Ohana running around a writer In the film, I play Shanghai. an who’s with life, that’s unhappy some in alcoholic and is experiencing He all have. we demons, which ternal an angel. represents who meets a lady of the course place over The film takes one night. this and through Shanghai, through each discovering they’re journey talk about They other and themselves. lives about their personal each other, of Regardless and their problems. or foreigners are the actors whether people, it’s a human story, Chinese and self struggles to relates everyone doubts. ago, and was really well received. received. well really ago, and was the wrote Iliev Andrej director Our short, shot it, it and is the edited behind Shanghai Story. mastermind do a to had the opportunity When we had the script he already film, feature a big have we the feature For ready. F , The Wise , which The Matrix and Little Milo The Eight Hundred , in which Lazetich plays the main , in which Lazetich of plays the a role Shanghai Story

| FILM

NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM , as well as the controversial, as well | ARTS Eight Hundred role, and the expected and releaserole, of film war epic Shanghai Story By Bryan Grogan By Bryan Drago Lazetich, a Serbian who filmmaker grew up in the US, arrived in Shanghai the for first in time 2004. During his in the time has city, he worked on of projects,a number the TV including show Projects, Drago Lazetich Chats About His FILMMAKER INDIE Blockbuster FilmBlockbuster Hit journalist, sat we speak to down about him to his life and expectwhatwe in film can hisfrom new projects. focuses on a gay man whose political and opinions erratic behavior stirs concern. Lazetich’s approach to termsfilmmaking, he filmmaking, Redhas which Pill also stirred controversy.has the While term red pill certain connotations, maintains he that this is name not political, but directly associated with and his ownand wish films notthatdo make to strayaway from difficult topics. Withreleasethe upcoming of 36

FOR THE RECORD MUSIC | ARTS CHINA Three New Homegrown Albums on Our Radar MUSIC CORNER This Month

By Bryan Grogan

Phantom Rhythm by Gong Gong Gong Made up of guitar and bass duo Tom Ng (The Offset: Spectacles) and Joshua Frank (Hot & Cold), Gong Gong Gong formed in Beijing in 2015, playing in DIY spaces around the city and building a cult fan base. Phantom Rhythm is the clearest representation and most digestible album that we have gotten from the pair thus far. They lock onto the mystique of blues here, grating the sound down to its bare bones at times, summoning the phantom sound of percussion throughout, with Tom Ng singing in Cantonese throughout the album’s 10 tracks, adding again to the mystery that the band has built around themselves. Tracks like ‘Some Kind of Demon’ allow a certain space around Ng’s vocals, so that they echo, as if from some desolate stage. This is beautifully done, considering the duo are beloved for their excellent live shows. Meanwhile, the interplay between bass and guitar, with the bass setting the tone for large portions of the album, is infectious, clear, minimal and easy to hang on to and never let go. They keep song lengths at around

song, making Phantom Rhythm an extremely enjoyable listen. five minutes or less for the most part, and cram a bunch of quirky hooks into each Scan the QR code to listen:

Fury by C.O.W. 牛 This enigmatic group made up of four artists from China and Germany are back with their latest EP, Fury, which is apparently the second element of an upcoming album, after their previous release, Epic Compost Records, and the four artists in the group have coagulated their personalities into one, which. It’s certainly hard to is find an muchinteresting information step in onterms the ofgroup, building but theythe group’s are signed brand. to iconicWhile Germanthe name label of this EP, Fury which, although exciting and danceable, does not sound overtly menacing to us. The EP opener, ‘General Ling’, seems gets straight to indicate to the anger point or with disenchantment, a few vocal strands it’s not playing necessarily over reflectedeach other. in Theythe music, go between English and Chinese lyrics as they seem to build a personality around General Ling Da Jie (General Ling Big Sister). ‘Gang Brain’ goes in another direction, reveling in thick bass beats – there are no vocals on this one, which allows for some interesting kettle drum sounds and a certain sense of voyage, seemingly more concerned about depicting an atmosphere. It’s a nice bridge to the re-

in Chinese. The album as a whole combines a variety of strands of music, like trap, grime, cord’s final track ‘Swear,’ which again lifts the intensity, this time introducing a male vocalist rapping their debut album when it comes. dancehall and EDM in parts, but is largely a snippet of what we should eventually find on Scan the QR code to listen:

Arthropods by 33EMYBW

a Golem. Perhaps, then, we should view this release as a follow-up to the producer’s excellent 2018What release,is an arthropod? Golem, which, For 33EMYBW like Arthropods it is the, appeared isolated onform Shanghai of a mythical label SVBKVLT. Jewish figure Made called up

Hyperdub’s Ikonika, a crop of producers that once again prove SVBKVLT’s excellent outreach in globalof seven underground tracks and three music, remixes Arthropods by Hakuna is a gentle Kulala’s horror Don show, Zilla, givingNAAFI’s us Lechugagorgeous Zafiro bell-sounds and in parts and tortured screams in others. 33EMYBW is awesome at this, combining these bipolar

Arthropods, loping gently at an easy pace, us- ingideas robotic seamlessly, vocals making and high-pitched an album thatsynthesizers would get to the set dance a bulbous floor oceanic hopping, scene. but would ‘Tentacle also Centre’ not followsfeel out andof place tears as away a film this score. veil, ‘Symmetry’ immediately opens using hard, fast synthesizers to emote alarms, but- tons being pressed, commotion, the arrival of something unfortunate. Later, ‘Arthropods,’ which features Li Jianhong, straddles a thin line, pacing us like victims in a dark and spooky hallway. While the album could certainly be read as a narrative, you can also take excellent tracks like ‘Arthropods’ and ‘Adam Bank’ as singular entities. The diversity that this album offers

Scanagain the affirms QR code our to love listen: for 33EMYBW.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 37 38 COVER STORY THE BORDERLANDS

Dispatches from the Edge of China COVER STORY 39 THE BORDERLANDS

hina tops a lot of lists, from population to hydroelectric- City production, longest high- speed railway to most Olympic gold medals in table tennis. Another category in which the PRC is undis- puted champion is the world's longest continuous land border. The Middle Kingdom’s quasi- chicken-shaped outline stretches for over 22,000 kilometers and separates the nation from 14 independent states (another number one): Afghanistan, Bhutan, DPRK (North Korea), India, Kazakhstan, Kyrgystan, Laos, Mongolia, Myanmar, Nepal, Pakistan, Russia, Tajikistan and Vietnam. China’s borders, aside from being a literal political and administrative dividing line, tell stories of shared cultural practices, food- stuffs, history and – in more recent times – development. As such, the nation’s borderlands are fascinating regions to explore and offer insight not only into the nuances of China itself, but also into life on the other side of the line. In the pages that follow, we explore the PRC’s borders with Mongolia, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, Lao People’s Democratic Republic and the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.

40 COVER STORY A LINE “ The border is quite literally a line in the sand, and the broad streets of Zamiin IN THE Uud seem to be in a “constant tug of war with SAND the Gobi Desert By Benjamin Plafker COVER STORY 41 PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA – MONGOLIA

orth Asia is big sky country, which, as it usually does in this world, goes hand in visa holder!) and then at the Mongolian border Nhand with being long border country. station.official, mint-conditionIn my transport, exit I am stamp, accompanied fellow tourist- by Indeed, four of the world’s 10 longest land bor- university students from Mongolia who are ders are to be found here, including the 4,630 studying in Beijing. When I ask about their lives kilometer stretch that separates the People’s in China their answers are confusing; as they Republic of China from Mongolia – China’s long- rearrange the many domestic appliances they’re est land border. bringing home as gifts from their lives south of The border is shared by three of China’s the border, they struggle to describe their opin- administrative regions: Xinjiang Uyghur ions of China. They tell me that in the past they’d Autonomous Region, Gansu Province and, of have preferred to go to Korea, but in recent years course, Mongolia’s main Chinese neighbor, Inner China’s advantageous position in the global econ- Mongolia Autonomous Region, where the cross- omy is hard to ignore. ing at Erenhot is located. We arrive in Zamym-Uud and the difference Erenhot, and its Mongolian neighbor Zamyn- between a country of more than a billion and a Uud, are by no means nowhere, but the journey country of three million is glaring. The border is there certainly feels like that’s where you’re quite literally a line in the sand, and the broad streets of Zamyn-Uud seem to be in a constant hitchhiked journey from Zhangjiakou in Hebei tug of war with the Gobi Desert. It is smaller and heading. My first trip there is a mostly successful quainter than Erenhot, but a great window into through the vast expanses of Chahar Banner’s Mongolia for those who do not wish to continue Rightprovince, Flanks, a trek then of throughnearly 500 the kilometers, vaster expanses first north through the desert. of the western reaches of Xilingol League (the re- There are a number of restaurants in gion’s violent history of conquest and reconquest the main plaza where you can buy khoshoor, left its mark in the form of super cool administra- Mongolia’s fried version of jiaozi tive titles, with banners and leagues instead of meat or potatoes, or, if you’re lucky, somebody counties and prefectures). might whip you up a plate of tsoyvin, filled, chaobing with ’s Rides are plentiful until arriving at Chahar northerly cousin. If you prefer to take advantage Youyi Houqi (come for the China-Mongolia-Russia of Mongolia’s ample empty space, grab yourself trade fair, stay for the beautiful sunset, and avoid some bread and cheese at the grocery store and the sheep-gut soup ( ), if you please), where I you’ve got a picnic. am informed that I can羊杂 either wait for the vegeta- While Mongolia is famous for its meat con- ble truck that ventures north once a week, or ride sumption, in the summer months dairy is the the night train to Erenhot. I choose the latter. main nourishment, and the variety of cheeses, Erenhot is a trading town of 75,000 people yogurts, creams and butters is astonishing. Grab that, as is often the case with border towns, some airag, fermented mare’s milk, to wash it all feels quite different from other cities of its size. down, or rub it into your skin if you want to trap It is where the Trans-Siberian Railroad changes some summer heat to last through the winter. gauge, and indeed it gives the impression that For those who do wish to continue on, the it is a city accustomed to translation: Chinese, train to Ulaanbaatar departs in the evening and Mongolian and Cyrillic script can be found on treats passengers to a glorious Gobi Desert sun- most business signage in the city, and the shushus rise upon awakening. Mongolia’s train culture is have a look in their eye that tells me I’m not the quite different from China’s: Cleanliness standards are higher, and I was treated to a Mongolian Russian and have lived or done business interna- dubbed version of Back to the Future. But perhaps tionally.first foreigner they’ve encountered. Many speak I got lucky. The city found its place on the map with the opening of the border to international trade in 1992, and in 2002 when the Dinosaur Fossil Museum was rebuilt and modernized. In that year the Deputy Secretary of Inner Mongolia’s Party Committee declared that “dinosaur culture is the pride of Erenhot.” For an alternative tourist attraction, check out the trade center, where

Mongolia conveniently located near a park with someyou can dinosaur-shaped find myriad products bushes, from providing Russia visitors and in a hurry a quick taste of Erenhot’s prehistoric pride. It costs roughly RMB100 to ride a Jeep from the Erenhot train station to Zamyn-Uud. Drivers stop first at the Chinese border station (get your 42 COVER STORY PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA – DEMOCRATIC PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF KOREA

he People’s Republic of China and Democratic When I visit the bridge on a crisp and clear March People’s Republic of Korea’s diplomatic his- afternoon, Sinuiju appears frozen in time. The city’s Ttory dates back to October 1949, when the iconic, unmoving Ferris wheel is visible from the two newly founded republics established diplomatic viewing station at the bridge’s abrupt, broken end, as relations. Roughly a year later, China would come is a giant, circular concrete structure that experts are to the aid of the DPRK during the War to Resist US speculating may one day be a hotel. A man rides along the Sinuiju riverfront on a bicycle, but aside from him, I see no other signs of life. There is, however, much more action on the Chinese side of the Yalu. Situated roughly 100 meters upstream from the Broken Bridge is the Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge, which accommodates trains and vehicles traveling between the two nations. According to Simon There is simply the end of Cockerell, the general manager and a tour leader at Koryo Tours – a leading North Korea travel company one country, a river, then – this is the most popular crossing for tourists traveling overland into the DPRK. (Other crossings be- the start of the other tween China and North Korea do exist, while there is a single rail crossing between Russia and the DPRK.) Next to the bridges, hawkers sell Korean trinkets, from Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il pins and DPRK currency to Korean cigarettes and booze, and slow “ boats depart from a dock to cruise the marine border referred to in the West as the Korean War. Aggression and Aid Korea, a conflict more commonly between the two countries. Along the road that runs the length of Dandong’s self-proclaimed communist states still in existence, Today, the PRC and the DPRK are two of five riverfront, and on the roads immediately behind it, are a myriad of shops selling imported Korean goods, 1,416-kilometer border. as well as a number of restaurants specializing in and Perhapsrelics of nowherethe conflict is thisstill moredot the apparent two nations’ than in food from both the northern and southern portions of Dandong, a city of well over two million people that the Korean peninsula. lies directly across the Yalu River from One of these restaurants is particularly conspicu- the Korean city of Sinuiju. Along ous. The windows are blacked out with heavy cur- the waterfront in Dandong, the tains, and the only view inside from Binhai Gong Lu famous Yalu River Broken Bridge (which runs parallel to the Yalu River) is through (wrecked as a result of US bomb- the establishment’s small rotating glass door. ing in February of 1951) stands as a stark reminder of the two countries’ forged-in-blood relationship. The Broken Bridge itself is something of a tourist attraction these days, with visitors from across China and Asia at large coming to gawk at the 108-year- old structure, which was built by the Empire of Japan, and catch a glimpse of life on the other side of the Yalu in the DPRK. Tourists can also check out a number of Korean War-era anti-aircraft guns, along with a monu- ment to Peng Dehuai, the Chinese general who led the People’s Volunteer Army – the Chinese force that fought to aid Korea. COVER STORY 43 THE GREAT COMMUNIST

nage informs people on the Chinese side of the border to refrain from interacting with folks on the other side of the line. After driving for about half an hour,

By Matthew Bossons DIVIDE my driver stops to purchase cigarettes at a small house-cum-shop located directly across from the border. I take the chance When my wife and I enter the eatery to ask the smoke salesman about his for dinner we are immediately greeted by interactions with DPRK residents at the a tall, strikingly beautiful Korean woman border fence. “I don’t really see people coming to Inside the mostly empty restaurant, tel- the fence from the Korean side very often evisionproudly screens adorned play with news a DPRK programming flag pin. anymore. In decades past, Korean people from south of Dandong, with Marshal – including military personnel – would Kim Jong-un featured prominently in sometimes come to the fence to trade much of the reporting. and sell stuff,” the shopkeeper tells me. The menu features a mishmash of “Chinese people would sometimes cross Korean fare; bibimbap, kimbap, kimchi over the fence into Korea to purchase and the famous ‘Pyongyang cold noodles,’ goods. But not anymore; security is much and dishes arrive quickly. Prices are tighter these days.” reasonable and service is much friend- Another 20 or so minutes from the lier than I’d been led to believe it would shopkeeper’s abode and we arrive at a be for a Westerner. The staffers, one in ferry dock, where boats regularly depart particular, are also extremely inquisitive, to cruise the rural Korean shoreline – asking questions about my home country away from the relative development of and 2-year-old daughter. Even marriage Sinuiju. We board one of the vessels and came up in conversation. huddle on the top deck alongside a mish- “Are foreign men nice – do they make mash of Chinese and Japanese tourists. good husbands?” our waitress asks my The choppy boat ride – which some wife in Chinese. After explaining, in cliche form, that good and bad folks reside just safari – takes us distressingly close to the about everywhere, my wife asks the serv- DPRK,have fairly at times argued coming qualifies within as a humancouple er, who appears to be in her early 20s, if of hundred meters of small villages and she can marry someone from outside her pastel-blue watchtowers. People too are country. She silently shakes her head and visible, walking and biking along the our conversation comes to a close. I pay small road that crosses the hilly terrain the bill and we head into the night. and connects the rustic settlements that A post-dinner walk along the riv- line the Yalu River. erside promenade lays bare the major While already common knowledge, difference in development and infrastructure between Dandong and Sinuiju. North Korean side of the border is vastly The Chinese side of the Yalu is brightly lit differentthe boat ridefrom confirms the PRC. that life on the up, with restaurant signage, hotel lights “[The DPRK and PRC] are completely different, frankly. There is not the kind totaland a blackness. steady flow of vehicle and human the borders in most other places,” says traffic.The On following the Korean day, side: a hired complete car takes and Cockerell.of fade and “There gradual is mergingsimply the that end defines of me along the border and out of the city. one country, a river, then the start of the We pass a section of the Great Wall, fol- other.” lowed by long stretches of metal fencing crowned with barbwire. Occasionally, sig- 44 COVER STORY BORDER BOOM

TOWN By Matthew Bossons

PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA – LAO PEOPLE’S DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC

hen we arrive at the border post in Mohan, on the Chinese side Wof the China-Laos border, it is well after dark. The hustle and handful of women linger around outside the customs checkpoint, hawking SIM cards bustleand offering of daily currency foot and exchange vehicle traffic services. has slowed, and only a And while the buzz of cross-border commerce and trade seems to have slowed by 8.30pm, a duty-free shop remains open, as does a large building Until 2011, Boten packed with vendors selling jade jewelry and hand-carved wooden furniture. There are no customers though, just us. was a certifiable Clearing Chinese customs is relatively quick, with the border agent asking the regular questions before stamping our passports and pointing casino boomtown, us in the direction of the entry checkpoint for the Lao People’s Democratic Republic (LPDR). with gambling halls, On the 200- to 300-meter walk to the next checkpoint, it becomes abundantly clear that we’re on the frontier. There are no street lights, and brothels, KTVs and dense jungle-y shrubbery abuts the pot-hole stricken, occasionally un- nightclubs Customs clearance on the Laos side is comparatively different: The cleanpaved and road. shiny Cell customsphone flashlights hall, airport-style are essential. bag scanners and facial recognition tech we experienced leaving China are notably absent. Instead, we are greeted by a dimly-lit, musty customs hall and seemingly disinterested actually let us walk back through the customs checkpoint after already entering Laosborder – to agents. retrieve (The a forgotten customs officersbottle of are duty-free so lax, invodka, fact, thatof course.) they Outside the customs hall – which is ornately shaped like a giant golden stupa, we discover that it’s even quieter than on the Chinese side. No hawkers, money changers or motor taxis, just a long, dark dirt road leading to the Laos border town of Boten.

(SEZ)Big in things 2003, areChinese happening businesses in Boten, have and moved it may in tovery help soon develop be difficult the area to refer to the settlement as a ‘town.’ Declared a ‘Specific Economic Zone’ COVER STORY 45

Boten. It wasn’t always this way, however.

casino boomtown, with gambling halls, brothels,Until KTVs2011, and Boten nightclubs was a certifiable – all the trappings of a weekend getaway for cashed-up Yunnan residents looking for a walk on the wild side. According to the New York Times, debauchery debuted in the city back in the early- to mid-2000s, when a company registered in Hong Kong signed a 30-year lease to develop the town into a tourist destination. This largely revolved around gambling, though, and by 2010 reports began to emerge that casino operators were locking up visitors who were unable to pay their debts. Government pressure mounted, and in 2011 the casinos were shuttered: Boten’s ‘betting boom’ had gone bust. There are still signs of Boten’s seedier past today, in the form of a couple of questionable drinking establishments, but there’s little doubt that Boten has moved on: We do not see a single slot machine on our visit and locals tell us the gambling is truly and fully done. The future now: development. According to statistics from the Ministry of Planning and Investment of LPDR, a total investment of USD500 million has been made in the Boten Beautiful Land - cial name) and 100% of the development Specific Economic Zone (the region’s offi Haicheng Group. is beingIn addition managed to bytourism, Chinese sectors firm Yunnan being as part of Chinese President Xi Jinping’s Belt and Road Initiative. developed include agriculture, livestock and manufacturing, as well as distribution logistics, telecommunications and network,Considered which awill piece connect of President Kunming Xi’s to flagship the Laotian infrastructure capital of Vientiane. project, public healthcare services. TheBoten route will willbecome be part the of first the stop Kunming–Singapore inside Laos along Railway, the Laos-China otherwise railway Like many before us who’ve traveled known as the Pan-Asia Railway Network, and is expected to eventually link to Boten, our time eventually comes to China to all of mainland Southeast Asia. It is currently anticipated that the leave – to the temples, night markets and Lao section of the transportation network will be completed in 2021. waterfalls of Luang Prabang. We board a southbound bus near the LPDR customs hotels, apartment complexes and tourist attractions – including a jungle house, and as we cruise through town one parkBut and there’s ‘ancient more city,’ to are Boten all planned than railway or currently construction; under Chinese-financeddevelopment, ac- last time, we can’t help but think that if cording to promotional brochures from Yunnan Haicheng Group, the SEZ’s - main developer. tier town, it will likely be a very different As a result of the ongoing construction work, “80% of Boten’s current place.we ever do return to this far-flung fron population is Chinese,” estimates a local bar owner we spoke with, who originally hails from Xi’an. While there are a number of hotels scattered around the growing town center, the one we end up in is new, fancier than we’re used to and clearly catering to Chinese visitors. Check-in staff are Chinese and rooms are paid for in renminbi. The only Laotian people we encountered in the hotel were working in the deserted breakfast buffet restaurant, which served – you guessed it – Chinese food. The morning after our arrival, we set out to explore the SEZ in the light of day. The scale of the development is unquestionably massive, with towering, half-built apartment blocks wrapped in scaffolding dotted around town. Surrounding Boten, a massive swath of clear-cut red earth is tra- versed by excavators, tractors and trucks – presumably preparing the next stage of the settlement’s building boom. During our galivant through town, we see the occasional group of Chinese tourists, and there are numerous small bars and Chinese restaurants catering to the visitors. But overall, there is a slightly sleepy feel to 46 COVER STORY

If you want to experience the glory of paradise, visit this route raveling from Kunming to Kashgar via Urumqi is full of wonders,” Tamoor Malik tells me via email, recounting his July 2018 journey from Yunnan prov- “Tince to Pakistan. “At one point, we were passing through rocky and hilly terrain, and then starts the desert – with red sand and strong winds. Windmills and crude oil pumping stations were a very common sight along the way, [showing] how energy-rich the area is.” Malik is a 31-year-old university student completing a Masters in Statistics in Kunming since 2016. He originally hails from Ghakhar Mandi in Pakistan’s Punjab prov-

passionateince, and has travel traveled enthusiast across shares.the PRC-Pakistan border twice. When he first meets me at a hotelThe buffet main in route rural crossingGuizhou, from his cross-border China into Pakistan adventures is a stunningare among stretch the first of asphaltstories the known around the world as the Karakoram Highway (though it's known in China as Highway 314). The road, which runs over 1,200 kilometers from just north of Kashgar in China’s Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region to Abbottabad, Pakistan, is occasionally referred to as the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World.’ The route is among the highest highways on PEOPLE’S the globe, and is surrounded by some of the most stunning and diverse scenery in Asia: Towering peaks and glaciers, roaring rivers, mountain meadows, you name it. On the Chinese portion of the highway, travelers will pass two other international REPUBLIC borders – the China-Afghanistan and China-Tajikistan lines. The last notable settlement along the Chinese side of the Karakoram is Tashkurgan – OF CHINA the administrative seat of Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County. Set along the highway, of Han laborers, according to former That’s – ISLAMIC forTashkurgan our annual is inhabitedExplore China by folks travel of guide.the Tajik ethnicity, alongside a significant population “The journey from Kashgar to Tashkurgan editor is like Daniel traveling Plafker, in paradise,”who covered says the Malik. region “It seems as if a painter has made a masterpiece with his eternal brush, containing trees, REPUBLIC OF lakes, meadows, rivers and mountains. PAKISTAN “I traveled [the road] twice, once from China to Pakistan and once from Pakistan to

China,” Malik continues. On his first grand overland adventure, Malik opted for the slow COVER STORY 47 BORDER OF THE ‘IRON

BROTHERS’ By Matthew Bossons

train from Kunming to Urumqi, which took 45 hours. From there, he caught a 23-hour train to Kashgar. “I was the only foreigner on board,” says Malik, explaining that only himself and the train staff completed the entire journey. “All the locals were extremely excited to see me among them and everybody was trying to talk to me. They repeated the popular slogan ‘Pakistan and China – Iron Brothers.’” From Kashgar to the Pakistan border, he passed through Tashkurgan en route to Khunjerab Pass – the world’s highest elevation border crossing. On the Pakistani side lies – allegedly – the world’s highest ATM machine, a solar-powered cash dispenser operated by the National Bank Of Pakistan (NBP). To cross the border into Pakistan from China, Malik notes that it is necessary to purchase an international bus route ticket with a passport, and that the Pakistan-China border crossing is closed on weekends (also public holidays in Pakistan and China, according to tour providers). “You will have to show your ticket at [Chinese exit] immigration, which starts at around 10- 11am,” says Malik. “After you are done with immigration and have gotten the exit stamp in your passport, you will go to the other side of the customs hall, where your transportation will be waiting for you. You will have either a Pakistani or Chinese driver, depending on which ticket you have got.” Interestingly, the China-Pakistan border is very different than the other crossings discussed in this story – traveling between Chinese customs and Pakistani customs will take two to three hours. There is no immediate entry on the other side. On the Pakistani side, the customs and im-

“On the Pakistan side of the border, immigration is very simple; they just ask you to open yourmigration luggage office and is show based what in Sost you (or bought Sust), for the your last ‘cousinstown before and relatives.’the Chinese That’s border. all, no scanning,” says Malik. “One picture, one stamp and you are free from the entry process.” From Sost, most travelers will continue down the Karakoram Highway (known in Pakistan as N-35) to Gilgit, which serves as a center for hiking and mountaineering excursions in the Karakoram Range. When I press Malik on why people should venture this route into Pakistan, he has a simple answer: “If you want to experience the glory of paradise, visit this route.” COMM UNITY

Higher Education School News, P50 INTERVIEW | COMMUNITY

HISTORY MAN PATRICK CRANLEY Bringing Old Shanghai to Life Interview by Ned Kelly

Baltimore native Patrick Cranley first came to China as a graduate student in 1986, studying Chinese economics and politics. He returned to Beijing in 1995 as a businessperson, married and with two children. They moved to Shanghai in 1997, and were immediately captivated by the beauty of the city’s historic buildings and the stories behind them. So they started Historic Shanghai and the rest is, well, history…

How did Historic Shanghai come about the former French Concession, and then ends tion, too. And they all have to be well-written. and what do you do? in the former ‘Chinese City,’ or Old City. It At book club meetings, we give a brief histori- includes a huge range of buildings and a mul- cal background to the book, and then we dive My wife Tina [Kanagaratnam] and I wanted titude of stories about the incredibly diverse into the discussion. Readers can visit our to know more about Shanghai’s built herit- group of people who made Shanghai into one age, but there was not much information of the world’s greatest cities – all in the spac- (QR code below). easily available at the time. Every time we es of three hours and a few kilometers. website to find the list of upcoming books mentioned this, people unanimously said, What book would you recommend to - Favorite building in Shanghai? someone new to the history of Shanghai? thor of A Last Look: Western Architecture in“You Old need Shanghai to find – Tessshe knows Johnston, lots the about au old I absolutely do not play favorites with herit- - Shanghai.” So we found Tess and in 1998 formed Historic Shanghai in our living room buildings, in too many styles, from too many recommendShanghai’s story trying is tooto cut complex down theto compre choices by (in an historic house built in 1937, of course). periods,age structures. and with There so many are too stories, many that exquisite it focusinghend by readingon a topic just (a one person, book, an so event) I would and From the beginning, the goal has been an era (Imperial, Republican, or post-Revo- to help preserve Shanghai’s unique history lution periods), and then check the recom- by raising awareness and appreciation of its Andwould if beyou a couldsevere bring injustice back to onepick buildingjust one. mended reading list on our website. That’s remarkable built heritage and social and cul- that is now lost, which would it be? tural history. We do that by organizing walks, and posts on lots of interesting Shanghai- Maybe the gangster Du Yuesheng’s home on relatedalso where topics. you Most can findof our the events events are schedule, open to the former Rue Wagner (now Ninghai Lu). We have built up a small library of resources the general public, so we encourage people There were so many ghosts, so many secrets liketalks, old film maps, screenings, directories trips and and memoirs, exhibitions. and who are interested in learning more and per- we make a point of asking older residents haps getting involved in Historic Shanghai to build a highway and a park. A poor bargain, if youin that ask old me. house. But it was sacrificed to memories of the old days. our members are an engaging, eclectic group (and ex-residents) about their invaluable ofattend people an whoevent are or funtwo. to They share usually an historical find that How does the Historic Shanghai Book Club If you had to pick just one, which walk adventure with. work, and what kind of books do you pick? would you recommend? We select books about Shanghai’s history, For more on Historic Shanghai scan There are so many interesting areas in - the QR code. spectives (Chinese, Western, female, male, as the top of the priority list, but I particu- differentfiction and walks nonfiction, of life, differentfrom different periods per of larlyShanghai. like our It is ‘Three difficult Cities’ to single walk, out which just starts one history). We look for books that are as much on the Bund in the former International as possible written contemporaneously, and Settlement, winds through the earliest part of -

well-researched current fiction and nonfic

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 49 AROUNDTOWN Britannica Celebrates 7 Years of SUIS GB x Zero Waste Shanghai Excellence Thursday, September 26 marked the This academic year, Britannica International School cel- Event, an opportunity for parents and inaugural SUIS Gubei Community - British education to Shanghai’s parents and children, with ebrates its 7th year of excellence in delivering the best of ing of amazing events displaying the teachers to chat and enjoy an even best achieved in the city, and rivaling top UK schools back hosted Paula Cuenca from Zero Waste home.examination results at IGCSE and A Level on a par with the Shanghaibrilliance toof inspiretheir learners. the community SUIS GB to work towards a greener future.

Matt Dickinson Takes Wellington Pupils to Zhumulangma and Back

- sionsEarly andSeptember creative saw writing award-winning workshops novelist themed andaround filmmaker Zhumulangma Matt Dickinson (known in thejoin West Wellington as Mount pupils Everest) for a weeklongand the visit of inspiring presentations, discus importance of maintaining a sense of Learning Spaces at WISS adventure throughout one’s life. Matt As part of their future-oriented approach to teaching and deeper issues associated with climb- learning, WISS has new learning spaces in the Early Years. ingrevealed Zhumulangma the danger, and excitement applied it and to The new classrooms provide a variety of opportunities to setting personal goals and facing life’s learn creatively and are designed to help kids develop their challenges. His writing workshops gave curiosity and independence while gaining skills and knowl- - edge. ing skills. pupils greater confidence in their writ

Dulwich College Kindergarten Shanghai ‘Culture Mornings’ On DUCKS ‘Culture Morning,’ anyone who has a cultural talent or activity they would like to share with the community is welcomed to the stage. October in DUCKS saw many children demonstrate their cultural talents. Some sang their favorite songs in their home language, others performed traditional ancient poems NAIS Pudong Early Years Open Morning and many audience members participated on November 6 in riddle guessing. The performances were well received, and everyone had so much fun! in a fantastic new Early Years environment at NAIS Pudong. It’sJoin a in wonderful for a morning opportunity of fun, play-based to meet with educational current students activities - derstand the attitudes, the education and the culture of NAIS YCIS Shanghai Celebrates Founder’s Day with Events Pudong.and teachers, Sign upto experiencetoday! classroom learning and to un at all Campuses YCIS Shanghai’s recent 2019 Founder’s Day celebrations highlighted the school’s 26th anniversary, along with Yew Chung’s 87th anniversary. Including a live video broadcast with all YCIS locations worldwide, the day was packed with meaningful activities

‘Founder’sacross the school’sDay Run’ five fun Shanghai runs in Pudong, campuses, plus adorableincluding renditions fun sports ofcompetitions ‘Happy Birthday’ in Puxi sung and by ECE students.

50 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ADVERTORIAL | COMMUNITY

ATTENTION DEFICIT HYPERACTIVITY DISORDER (ADHD) By Yang You

lish calm. (ADHD) is a behavioral disorder that observation to see if your child’s symptoms Aincludesttention deficitsymptoms hyperactivity such as inatten disorder- improve,views. They stay may the first same suggest or get aworse. period of sweet. Invite friends to play, but keep tiveness, hyperactivity and impulsiveness. It Then, if appropriate, a treatment plan playtimes• Social situations: short so yourKeep childthem doesn’t short and lose is usually diagnosed when children are 6 to should be arranged together between patents self-control. Avoid times when your child is 12 years old. and specialist, and can involve medication or feeling tired or hungry, such as after a day at Many children go through phases where therapy. A combination of both is often used. school. they’re highly active, restless or inattentive. Parents often hesitate about medications, and This is often completely normal and does not although they are not a permanent cure for physical activity daily, which can improve necessarily mean they have ADHD. But if you ADHD, they may help the child to concentrate their• Exercise: quality Make of sleep. sure your child gets regular think their behavior may be different from better, be less impulsive, feel calmer and most children their age then it may be worth learn and practice new skills. child is hyperactive after eating certain foods, seeking professional advice. which• Eating: may Monitor contain what additives your child or caffeine, eats. If keepyour times. However, it’s always important to re- a diary and avoid these. the condition has been shown to run in fami- memberFor parents, that a child coping with can ADHD be difficult cannot at help lies andThe mayexact be cause associated of ADHD with is unknown,imbalances but their behavior. If you’re looking after a child to bed at the same time each night and gets in brain neurotransmitters. Other factors may up• Stick at the to samea routine: time Makein the sure morning. your childAvoid goes include being born prematurely, having a low helpful. overstimulating activities in the hours before birth weight and smoking, alcohol or drug •with Plan ADHD, the day you so may your find child the knows below what advice to bedtime, such as computer games or watch- abuse during pregnancy. ing TV. Although there’s no cure for ADHD, it can how a child with ADHD copes with everyday - be managed with appropriate educational life.expect: A set routine can make a difference to lems, which in turn can make symptoms support, advice and support for parents and worse.• Night Establishingtime: ADHD cana sleep-friendly lead to sleep routine prob affected children (parent support groups), to- can help your child and make bedtime less of positive• Set clear behavior boundaries: with immediateMake sure everyonepraise or a battleground. support and medication if necessary. rewards.knows what behavior is expected; reinforce getherLooking with medicalafter a child and expertwith ADHD psychological can be often have problems with their behavior and - saying a general, “Thanks for doing that,” you academic• Support performancefrom school: Childrenat school. with Speak ADHD to tant to remember that they cannot help their could• Be positive: say “You Give washed specific the praise.dishes Insteadreally well. of behavior.challenging Some and clues exhausting, that may but arise it’s imporin day-to- Thank you.” This will make it clear to your your child may need. day life include getting your child to sleep at child that you’re pleased and why. yourADHD child’s can teachers be a challenge about any to extramanage. support night, getting ready for school on time, listen- However, with support from parents, school ing to and carrying out instructions, being to do something, give brief instructions and organized, behavior at social occasions and • Give instructions: If you’re asking your child ADHD can be well managed with a satisfac- when shopping. - toryand specialists,outcome for in the the child great and majority family. of cases If you’re worried about your child, speak tivebe very scheme specific. using a points or star chart, so good• Incentive behavior schemes: can earn Set a up privilege. your own Try incen to fo- Content provided by Yang You of St. Reiss advice, namely a child psychiatrist, pediatri- Shanghai Medical Centre cianto their or learning teachers disability first and thenspecialist. seek specialist There’s no simple test to determine Ifcus your on justchild one looks or twolike behavioursthey’re becoming at a time. whether you or your child has ADHD, but frustrated,• Early intervention: overstimulated Watch and for aboutwarning to losesigns. HuaihaiPhone: 5403 Zhong 0228, Lu, Xuhui 5403 District8088 your specialist can make an accurate diag- self-control, intervene. Distract your child Address: Unit A, 19/F, 9 Donghu Lu, by nosis after a detailed assessment and inter- and remove them from the situation to estab-

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 51 EAT & DRINK

Azabu Dining Contempory Cultural Contrasts, P59

The Soup List La Maruja Perch P56 P58 P62 ON THE GRILL 53 (6209 2952) 近嘉善路 , 号 110 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM 永嘉路 In my case, I want to provide my guests my provide to case, I want In my Mills is due to open in the Jingan Kerry Center ’ soon, for now you can visit 110 Yongjia Lu, by Jiashan Lu O them poach eggs utilizing the heat generated them poach eggs utilizing the heat generated other of wasting the compost pile instead by resources. possible in quality food with the highest understand to everyone I want Shanghai. – freshly good bread really makes what culture. milled flour and sourdough has career of your What accomplishment most proud? made you the sourdough make to how myself I taught Making and baking techniques. starter bread subtle alchemy; is like bread sourdough and humidity will changes in temperature I That’s why of bread. loaves different make masters learn from to years three for traveled to I’m grateful the world. all over and chefs and guidance, advice their generous them for helped me improve. which When it comes to cooking, he focuses on cooking, he focuses When it comes to As the location is in the heart of the city, of the city, As the location is in the heart utilizing the heat generated by the compost the by pile” heat the generated utilizing “While I was at Stone Barns,“While I was at Stone eggs I saw poach them it captures Shanghai’s modern lifestyle. We We lifestyle. modern Shanghai’s it captures that allows nourishment provide hope to through lives their busy down slow guests to the O’Mills experience. meet chefs to often travel you know We has left ideas. What experience and share impact? a lasting at Stone visiting Blue Hill My experience Dan Barber enlightening. very Barns was seeds original high-quality preserve to works without the influence of industrialization. on natural team his entire also educates He agriculture. of the ingredients, flavor out the real bringing seasoning or garnishing. without excessive of cooking challenging the modern way By others to he encourages food, and enjoying impact of food global consider the larger Barns, I saw at Stone choices. While I was fermented foods and vegan options. and vegan foods fermented crowd came as quite a surprise

line will expand to add more handmade add more to line will expand garden with workshops. Also, the product Also, the product with workshops. garden example, it will be more like a backyard a backyard like it will be more example, style while adding new elements. For adding new elements. For while style We will keep the simple, natural and earthy and earthy natural the simple, will keep We experience? experience? Jingan Kerry Center present a unique a unique present Center Kerry Jingan How will the new O’Mills at the will the new How and love. family, you cook the best ingredients with joy with joy cook the best ingredients you family, for our own families. When it’s for your your When it’s for families. own our for O’Mills, we prepare every dish like we would would we dish like every prepare O’Mills, we the freshest seasonal ingredients daily. At At daily. seasonal ingredients the freshest knowing eyes and the patience to discover discover and the patience to eyes knowing expensive products, though. It means having It means having though. products, expensive count. That doesn’t necessarily mean rare or or mean rare necessarily count. That doesn’t restaurant, and we can’t compromise on that compromise can’t and we restaurant, Product quality is the lifeblood of my of my quality is the lifeblood Product flour? Why is it important to mill your own own mill your to is it important Why with nature through food. through with nature share this and encourage others to reconnect reconnect others to this and encourage share When I returned to Shanghai, I wanted to to I wanted Shanghai, to When I returned organic food in that serene environment. environment. in that serene food organic homemade sourdough bread and healthy and healthy bread homemade sourdough farm in the English countryside. I enjoyed I enjoyed countryside. in the English farm A few years ago I visited friends at their ago I visited years A few O’Mills? What was the original inspiration for inspiration the original What was eight years ago. years eight and TV chef. I opened my first restaurant first restaurant chef. I opened my and TV ago. I’ve also worked as a freelance writer writer as a freelance also worked ago. I’ve teenager and started food blogging 12 years blogging 12 years food and started teenager I have loved delicious food since I was a since I was delicious food loved I have culinary industry? culinary How long have you been involved in the in involved been you have long How Lu restaurant’s runaway success with the of the popular O’Mills Bakery. The Yongjia wanghong Xiao Xiao, the effervescent chef and owner You mightYou know Chenxia Shao better as Interview by Cristina Ng by Interview Good Bread and Simple Food Bread Simple Good and O’Mills Bakery’s Owner on Bakery’s O’Mills SHAO

CHENXIA bread, we found out more about her mission. Between bites of her delicious sourdough second location in the Jingan Kerry Center. to her, andto set her, now she’s to open the brand’s GRAPE VINE

WIN! Autumn Crab Feast for Two at Courtyard by Marriott Shanghai Changfeng Park Hotel

The sweet scent of osmanthus marks Shanghai’s hairy crab season. To indulge in a crustacean carnival, all you have to do is head to Courtyard by Marriott Shanghai Changfeng Park Hotel for a Crab Feast Weekend dinner buffet. Pavilion all-day- dining restaurant is a solid choice reached its peak with Starbucks adding for freshly cooked steaks, seafood, pumpkinPumpkin spice coldfrenzy brew has tojust their about PSL charcuterie and more. In addition options. Dal Cuore is also giving their to those tempting items, Head gelato a makeover for the season with Chef Jiang has added a creative pumpkin, Musang King durian, Yunnan array of crab dishes to be paired with premium Shaoxing wine. Additionally, diners that book via CarnivoresMandarino shouldand riso hit flavors. up the St. Regis’s Bespoke casual European eatery or also receive a complimentary dish of Meatopia by Stone Sal, which just ricethe hotel’s with braised official abalone WeChat in platform oyster opened in Pudong. For Korean barbecue, sauce. Finish off your crab feast Mark Klingspon (The Nest, The Cannery, by indulging at the DIY chocolate Rye & Co fountain. Want to give it a try? The Korean barbecue and ganbei joint called hotel is offering two free coupons Juju. Unfortunately,) is behind Nakama’sa new free-flow primo for That’s Shanghai readers. To win, yakiniku cuts are moving from Taiyuan Lu simply scan the That’s to Jianguo Xi Lu. There will likely be a gap Shanghai QR code and in service, and the new location doesn’t wait for the Lucky Draw > 99 Danba Lu, by Yunling Dong Lu 丹巴路99号, 近云岭东路 have space for Ochobo. Fingers crossed announcement. (400 118 1585)

WeOchobo recently finds visited a new the space new soon. Oxalis at One Museum Place (we like the halibut), and you can also expect the third Kun Thai to BREAKING BITE open in the same mall soon.

In café news, there’s a new branch of Hairy Crab Peet’s behind Jing’an Temple as well as a Delights Brut Eatery coming to Jiangning Lu soon. Ever wondered why Cyclo has returned to Jing’an with a new concept called Pho To Shop by Cyclo. It’s two months out of the year? being billed as a simple menu of Cyclo JoinShanghai the UnTour goes crab Crab crazy Feast best-sellers. Also expanding their reach, on November 12 to see the second Co. Cheese and third Joe’s why the crustaceans were Pizza are both opening on the corner of Shaanxi Nan Lu and Nanchang Lu soon. Tang Dynasty poets. Walk Joining them is yet another Tims Coffee theimmortalized streets of Shanghai’sin verse by Shop, Hong Kong desserts, Japanese Old Town, an area that is robotayaki and more. currently disappearing lane by lane, to sample the local delicacy in an authentic setting. The classic dishes on offer include wontons in hairy crab broth, lion’s head meatballs with roe and Lastly, Northern Thai restaurant Kin is more. Learn the multi-step process of cracking crab open and discover why traditional Chinese medicine suggests pairing them with plenty of huangjiu (Chinese brandy). locations in two weeks on Yongkang Lu. due to open the first of three planned > Untourfoodtours.com

54 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY CRISTINA NG / [email protected]

BREAKING BITE

Stone Brewing Ditches the Milk It’s hard to beat a warm chocolate chip cookie dunked into a glass of milk, but we’d honestly prefer an adult beverage like beer. Stone Brewing has the right idea, casting off the milk in favor of four beer- cookie duos. Kick things off with the seasonally appropriate Chai- Spiced Imperial Russian Stout and a pumpkin spice cookie. Next, withnibble a cinnamonStrictly Cookies’ bun cookie flavor-of-the-month, also sounds good, caramel there’s apple a brew crunch that tastesalongside like Stonecarrot Wazzle cake that Barrel-Aged we want to Sour. try. Drinking That Juli StoneGoldenberg/ Go To IPA Monkey Paw/Stone 24 Carrot Golden Ale comes with a ‘Go Nuts’ cookie.

> Nov 8, 11.30am-2am; RMB158. Stone Brewing Tap Room, 1107 Yuyuan Lu, by Fenggang Lu 愚园路1107号, 近凤冈路 Nearest metro: Jiangsu Lu, 5 mins. (6226 2510)

BREAKING BITE Legendary Kowloon Opulence Meets Modern Canto Cuisine at Lunch Paying homage to the Hong Kong nightlife stalwart of the same name, The Shanghai EDITION’s Canton Disco

of Kowloon’s past, paired with creative takes on Hong Kongintroduces dishes Shanghai and disco-ready diners to cocktails. the glitz Andand glamournow, you can sample these Cantonese favorites by day. Chef de cuisine

around signature roast meats (Iberico pork char siu, roastMichael goose Janczewski or soy chicken). and co. have Groups built may new choose lunch from sets Orchid, Bamboo or Chrysanthemum sets starting from RMB288 per person. Highlights include smoked duck breast salad, Wagyu carpaccio, Mom’s ‘mostly cabbage, a little bit of pork’ dumplings, crispy pork hock and more. Lunch is available from 11.30am to 2pm.

> Canton Disco, 2/F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu 南京东路199号上海艾迪逊酒店2楼, 近江西中路 (5368 9521)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 55 EAT & DRINK | FEATURE AUTUMN SOUPS Warming Bowls for the Soul By Cristina Ng

We could eat soup all year long, and we’re not just talking about cold ones like gazpacho. Still, our consumption ramps up with the dropping temperatures. From miso soup to creamy clam chowder, who doesn’t love a convenient, steaming hot and nutrient packed meal-in-one? Here’s a few of our favorites from around town.

Brut Eatery Lizzy’s All Naturals Dashu Wujie This small chain of cafes has just revamped Although we love spring and summer, You can order this masterful steamed Fujian-style soup with 18 exotic matsutake chicken soup (RMB46) is selling their warm blends. Thankfully ingredients at all branches of the elegant onetheir of menu the new for fall,items. and The black bowl truffle comes they’rewe hate back, when so Lizzy’s take advantage All Naturals and stops vegetarian restaurant chain Dashu Wujie, with a scoop of quinoa, sliced chicken, enjoy as much antioxidant-rich pumpkin, including the one with a Michelin star mushrooms and a tangle of kale. Then a on the Bund. For more casual occasions, nourishing clear chicken broth is poured tangy tomato basil, comforting miso and we recommend the Xuhui location. If from a teapot. A candle is lit under the creamy cauliflower, rich mushroom, you’ve had this soup once, you will never In addition to purchasing individually (RMB34-36),anti-inflammatory you can carrot also as get you them can. as part ingredients with pumpkin, mushrooms, addremaining the rest. black truffle and mushroom of a cleanse set (from RMB218). chestnutforget it due and to bamboo a rotating pith cast starring of flavorful this flavored soup, so it stays warm until you season. Make sure to eat it slowly from top > WeChat ID: BrutEatery (available at all locations > WeChat ID: lizzysallnatura1 to bottom rather than mixing the bowl, except Yuyuan Lu) because each layer tastes different.

Tribe > 392 Tianping Lu, by Hengshan Lu 天平路392号, Pure & Whole Every season, this health-conscious eatery 近衡山路 (3469 2857) We have trouble choosing our favorite goes all out with colorful new menu items, order at this vegetarian eatery. There are and we are big fans of their ‘Turn Up for days when the Pure & Whole Thai soup Tomato’ soup (RMB30). They uses the Polux (RMB30/small, RMB48/large), with sweet Ending things on a much more decadent potato, tomato, lime, kale, garlic, ginger, basil and parsley, because they follow note, we can’t leave off Polux by Paul lemongrass, green chili and coconut broth, thatbest adagetomatoes, that cauliflower,‘food is fuel.’ onions, The addition garlic, Pairet. Quintessentially Parisian, the is exactly what we are craving. On less of herbed breadcrumbs adds the right French Onion Soup (RMB80) is a steaming hungry days, we gravitate towards the amount of naughty to an otherwise nice bowl of comforting beef broth laden with green goddess (RMB29/small, RMB47/ bowl of food. silken curls of sautéed onions underneath large). It’s a satisfying blend of asparagus, a crouton and melted cheese cap. We could broccoli, green pepper and cilantro. > 1/F, 291 Fumin Lu , by Xinle Lu 富民路291号1楼, live off that, followed up by a sweet plate 近长乐路 (6093 2982) of ‘Raspberries Essential.’ > pureandwhole.com > No. 5, Lane 181, Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 新天地太仓路181弄5号, 近黄陂南路 (6333 9897)

56 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ADVERTORIAL | EAT & DRINK

YUE CHINESE RESTAURANT Contemporary Dining at Pullman Shanghai South

alling all Cantonese and Shanghainese boiled soups, and Yue succeeds on that count. food lovers, the Pullman Shanghai CSouth has just launched their newest such as abalone and sea cucumber. Or go restaurant, Despite being newly-opened, withThere fresh are soupsmorel made mushroom from prized and bamboo items the exciting meals at Yue are already fusing elements of the two popular Chinese regional Either way, you’ll be impressed. cuisines in perfect harmony. mushroomStewed pithbeef in with flavorful honey chicken and soy stock. hits Chef Li is from Guangdong, and he the balance between the two regions. incorporates experience from a 20-year Orange peel and star anise nod to the dish’s Price: RMB300-500 career into his cooking. There are many Cantonese provenance, while tender Wagyu Who’s going: business travelers, local beef and a sprinkle of osmanthus appeal to on the menu, but one way Yue stands apart is local tastes. Good for: family meals, dim sum breaks, byrestaurants doing it on around the same town plate. that mix influences One of the most Shanghainese items socialoffice workersevents For example, honey lacquered Cantonese is seafood rice, dried scallop and bok choy char siu pork neck is served next to deep- vegetables in broth. Pao fan (poached rice) Yue Chinese Restaurant, 1/F (hall) & 2/F (private is a fond childhood memory upgraded by room), Pullman Shanghai South, 1 Pubei Lu, contained by a gorgeous ball-shaped web of adding crispy rice and lots of seafood. by Liuzhou Lu 浦北路1号, 近柳州路, 上海中星 spunfried fishsugar. fillet in classic Shanghai-style After all these delicious dishes, the best 铂尔曼大酒店1层(大堂)和2层(包间). Open daily, You haven’t mastered Cantonese cuisine ending is a small bowl of mango sago cream 11.30am-2pm; 5.30-9.30pm (2426 8888) unless you can produce crystal clear double- and pomelo. Just don’t forget to try the dim sum on your next visit.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 57 EAT & DRINK | NEW RESTAURANTS

Gilda’ (RMB48), which helped put San this eye-catching dish noteworthy. Sebastián on the culinary map. La Maruja Spain isn’t known for overly sugary LA MARUJA adds their own spin on the briny combination desserts, so the slightly savory ‘La Tarta de of anchovies threaded through green olives Queso de la Maruja’ (RMB48) makes sense. Sultry Spanish Pinxtos and paired with pickled hot peppers by Sharp buttery Mahon mixed with cream By Sophie Steiner serving it in a creamy anchovy mayo that we’d totally bottle and carry everywhere if it matches the accompanying scoop of raisin was socially acceptable. andcheese Malaga-infused produces a fluffy, ice cream light cheesecakewith a hint ofthat The Place honey. 2.5/3 La Maruja, like taitai in Chinese, has a (RMB38), featuring glistening spheres of connotation far beyond ‘housewife.’ She is watermelonThe refreshingly for sweetness, light ‘El serves Gazpachito’ as an ideal palette cleanser for the richer food to come. The Vibe that can move mountains with the snap of Next up, the presentation of the ‘Tortilla de The most famous Maruja of all time, the a powerful, influential, glamorous badass Pulpo a la Gallega’ (RMB68) is exquisite, but late ebullient Spanish actress Marujita want to be her, and men want to be with her, we can’t say the addition of chewy octopus is makinga perfectly her manicured the perfect fingernail. entertainer Women and host. welcome. full wall display. Her vivacious smile and Helmed by Pol Garcia (formerly of El Patio), In contrast, ‘Las Bombas de la anDíaz, eclectic presides mix over of popular the restaurant songs redone from ain this restaurant embodies that sentiment. Imported products are the hero of this bomb name in both appearance and taste. encouraged us to order up Lolea sparkling sexy Spanish hot spot that pays homage to There’sBarceloneta’ nothing (RMB58) to dislike lives about up to crispy its flavor sangriasretro jazzy before style we a la even Postmodern sat down. Jukebox The bar gastronomic market concepts like Mercado globes of fried creamy potato and Iberico and patio are often busy in the evenings, as San Miguel in Madrid and Mercado La ham. Tangy tomato sauce and more of that exploding laughter alternates with rapid- Boqueria in Barcelona. addictive garlic mayo make this next-level delicious. the music. If Spanish had a similar word for Take a good dish and make it better by fire Spanish, it would chitchat, perfectly rivaling describe the volume the lively of The Food renao ordering the ‘Huevos Estrellados’ (RMB58) atmosphere of La Maruja. 1.5/2 There’s a range of tapas starting in the with Iberico Ham (RMB20). The result is north of Spain from Garcia’s Basque a layered plate of gluttony starting with country hometown, San Sebastián. Madrid sweet, earthy, nutty Jamon Iberico with fat Total Verdict: 4/5 and Malaga style nibbles represent the that melts like butter piled onto crispy, thin Price: RMB200-400 central and southern regions. In addition to French fries and a perfectly fried egg with Who’s going: Spaniards, curious locals and traditional style tapas, there are also some crisp edges and runny yolk. At the very other tapas lovers bottom, sweet onion jam serves to balance Good for: Spanish food cravings, casual From an appetite-whetting set of cubed the saltiness of the other components. cocktails, patio catch-up sessions Manchegomore whimsical cheese, in agedpresentation to varying and degrees flavor. The textural contrast between the deep- fried squid legs and pan-fried squid heads 2/F, 210 Jinxian Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu, 进贤路210 like savory cheesecake dessert, the meal was in the ‘Txipirones Pelayo’ (RMB78), together 号, 近陕西南路 Nearest Metro: Huaihai Zhong Lu, 8 fullin aromatic of excitement. olive oil to the last lick of souffle- with the color juxtaposition of the black mins. Open Tue-Sun, 5pm-12.30am, kitchen closes at 11.30pm (6258 2801) It is appropriate to start with the ‘Pintxo squid ink aioli and white mayonnaise, makes

58 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM NEW RESTAURANTS | EAT & DRINK

AZABU DINING Amped Up Japanese-French Fusion By Cristina Ng

of tuna belly, saba mackerel, aji mackerel, The Vibe The Place salmon and octopus with salt, freshly ground The clarity with which this chef understands For a while, Shanghai was all about wasabi or pickled vegetables is a lively start. Japanese ingredients is even more impressive Kanpachi with homemade tofu skin (RMB88) is their most popular dish thanks that both he and the owners are locals, and waitingcontemporary for the izakaya-stylenext hot one tovenues appear, like when to a vibrant dressing of lemon juice, sesame awhen trip toyou the find ‘Land out ofhe’s the Chinese. Rising Sun’ It turns was out Jeju Izakaya and Oha. We were patiently oil and soy sauce. The noodle-like shreds of the impetus for starting the Japanese fusion opened at the end of last year on Nanchang bean curd and delicately arranged curls of concept in Shanghai. Lu,Azabu across Dining from snuck Turkish in below institution the radar. Pasha. They Just as the menu fuses ideas, the design Combining Japanese ingredients with French sauce. incorporates Asian aesthetics and Western pale-pinkNext up, fish a withgrilled silver asparagus skin soak (RMB48) up all that minimalism neatly bound by the Japanese several intriguing small bites and traditional log cabin with a roof of circular white daikon concept of wabi-sabi. Natural materials Japaneseand American standards influence, in a serene Azabu setting.turns out tiles houses egg yolk foam. The hollandaise like wood and linen are used, while ornamentation is limited to freshly arranged French cookery while the salty yolk is rooted ascendingOn their a breathtakinglydiminutive first beautify floor, Azabu spiral has ininspired Asia. emulsion belies a firm mastery of a single chip in an otherwise perfectly round five bar seats opposite an open kitchen. After Another important French cooking skill andflowers. beautiful At one matte point black in our bowl. meal, Our we dining noticed see it’s bigger than it seems. In addition to a is making stock, and they nail it on the uzaku companion remarked, “There’s beauty in staircase made of unfinished wood, you’ll (RMB85). Grilled freshwater eel is covered in imperfection.” a delicately sweet tare sauce before charcoal Funnily enough, that imperfection memo secludedmodestly-sized terrace main table dining for two. area, there’s a seals the juices beneath a thin layer of crispy private dining room that fits ten people and a skin. The eel sits on an intricately fanned piece of cucumber that shows off serious typicallywasn’t sent subtle to the cuisine kitchen. is beyond There wereproach. find The Food Chinese knife kills. Eel stock with a generous 1.5/2that the addition of aggressive flavors to a If you want to put yourself at the mercy of amount of rice vinegar is poured tableside. the chef, omakase dining sets are available from RMB500-900 per person. You have to black beans and pickled basil (RMB58) and Total Verdict: 4/5 book the omakase option ahead of time, so sea urchinBaked sanmasushi rice fish (RMB260) with slow-cooked are both Price: RMB400-900 we stuck to the menu, choosing from sushi, pleasing, although portions are small for the Who’s going: mostly local and overseas price. Still, if you are the type to swoon at the Chinese noodles. sight of uni, raw egg yolk and salmon roe, the Good for: romantic dinners, small groups, sashimi,While cold not appetizers, expecting much hot mains, more ricefrom and latter is worth the splurge. private dining As believers that every good Japanese than quality seafood, the addition of vibrantly meal should end with ice cream, we were 262 Nanchang Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu, 南昌路262号, a five fish mixed sashimi platter (RMB258) colored signature house-made sea salt in red not disappointed by the black sesame and 近陕西南路 Nearest Metro: Huaihai Zhong Lu, 7 mins. 2.5/3 Open daily, 5.30-11pm (5418 9217) more delights to come. Accenting thick slabs wine and yuzu flavors whispers that there are creamy sea salt (both RMB28) flavors.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 59 EAT & DRINK | NEW RESTAURANTS

GOLDEN LILY A Mixed French and Vietnamese Menu for Nomadic Appetites By Cristina Ng

We stuck to Asian items for our starters, The Vibe and they do Vietnamese spring rolls (RMB58) The Place The restaurant is bustling with Chinese pretty well. The pork, prawn and vegetable Golden Lily resides in a sprawling property guests and does very well at lunchtime due on Jianguo Xi Lu replete with a retro British to RMB78 lunch sets. This part of Jianguo bar, mock frescos and gorgeous terrace that Xi Lu is relatively low on reasonable-priced successfulfilling is flavorful, are the andThai-style they don’t shrimp skimp pancakes on the you might remember as the Notting House. restaurants – for reference, Le Comptoir (RMB78)fish sauce due which to lacklusteris much appreciated. texture. Less The food is French-Vietnamese fusion. de Pierre Gagnaire is across the street – so Pork neck (RMB78) is a delicious cut of the mostly cheap menu and always cheerful meat ideal for grilling, but too thin slices have present in Vietnamese cooking, that seems service is a welcome addition. And with a lost too much fat without acquiring a char. likeConsidering an easy menuthe French to execute. influence In addition already to a welcoming bar, you can always pop in for A boldly pungent chili sauce does its best to China Eastern pilot, the other partners have some spring rolls and a beer. 1.5/2 save the day. ties to Pho Joy and Roof 325. Keeping things You can’t judge a Vietnamese restaurant interesting, their chef hails from Yunnan. without ordering the pho (RMB78), and they Total Verdict: 3/5 do a fairly decent one. Simmering the stock RMB80-250 per person The Food Price: Who’s going: lots of Chinese diners, it could use a stronger hand with the spices Golden Lily serves a fairly affordable mix of neighborhood folks andfor six aromatics hours imparts – especially a beefy star flavor, anise. although Still, the French and Vietnamese dishes with things Good for: lunch sets, quiet dinners beef is tender, the noodles are supple and the like Thai tom yum kung soup, beef carpaccio tendon melts in the mouth. Fresh basil, Thai or burrata cheese salad thrown in for good 515 Jianguo Xi Lu, by Wulumuqi Nan Lu, 建国路路 coriander, scallions, fresh chili and lime perk measure. Pan-Asian meets European is a 515号, 近乌鲁木齐南路 Nearest Metro: Zhaojiabang things up. 1.5/3 much more accurate description. Lu, 9 mins. Open daily, 11am-midnight (5465 1072)

60 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ADVERTORIAL | EAT & DRINK

S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF COMPETITION

GREATER CHINA Young Chefs on a Journey to Make Their Dreams Come True

Like previous editions, the 4th S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition nurtures the future of gastronomy by discovering and promoting young talents. Long-time supporters of the gastronomic community S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna run this competition to give young chefs the courage to chase their dreams and realize their potential. In the lead up to the Greater China Region Finals, this year’s competitors have been working with their regional mentor on a signature dish to be judged by a prestigious panel of judges. Regional winners continue their journeys at the Grand Finale in Milan, Italy. Technical skill, creativity and expression of personal values are the criteria for selection. By proving that they will become a catalyst for positive change, the victorious S.Pellegrino Young Chef will be a high profile part of future Young Chef competitions.

Regional Mentor – Dong Zhenxiang and guidance from the early stages to help them Restaurants 2017. give their best performance. As a juror, I am This year’s competitors have the good luck of focused on whether or not they accomplish key You have found success by combining being mentored by Dong Zhenxiang of Da Dong points and award points based on judgment. classical French technique with your Peking duck fame. With numerous accolades heritage. How will you help the young chefs under his belt, the master of Chinese Italian Juror– Umberto Bombana do the same in a manner that is authentic to cuisine can be trusted to impart his deep themselves? knowledge of traditional Chinese cooking as Italian chef and co-owner of three-Michelin- I think a good cuisine or delicious food is well as modern international cuisine. achieved by mastering techniques, which Bombana has made huge contributions to the include an understanding of the characters and As a mentor, what is your greatest starred 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, Umberto the essence of produce. When it comes to great responsibility to the young chefs? Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. field in this region with restaurants in Hong cuisine, personal style and cultural heritage I want to guide them to use their life experiences are key. If young chefs strengthen their skills How will you pass on your knowledge to this to create a dish that represents them. Young and food knowledge, their style will develop year’s crop of young chefs? chefs should have a goal that guides their naturally. career and keeps them on the correct path. As a First of all, I think stability is an essential quality for a chef. Today’s young chefs are constantly bombarded by multiple sources of information, Juror – Vicky Lau Howmentor, important my job is is to it help to stay them true find to that your path. which can be both a good and a bad thing. Many Hong Kong-born Vicky Lau moved to the United cultural heritage when cooking on the global young chefs want to open a restaurant after stage? just a few years in the industry, but it is no easy at Le Cordon Bleu in Thailand after completing thing to become a head chef. It requires years studiesStates at in 15 graphic and discovered communication the culinary at NYU. field Her We are representing China in a global of hard work and a stable, temperate mindset competition, so naturally, the dishes the focused on long-term goals. I hope to be able to 20 Restaurant in Hong Kong by Hong Kong pass on this attitude to the young chefs in the Tatler,Tate Dining as well Room as receiving & Bar is to recognized one Michelin as a starTop and be an international expression of Chinese candidates create should reflect Chinese culture competition. in 2019. pairings and presentation can all be used to cuisine. Ingredients, cooking techniques, flavor The other important thing is bringing together You have the most visual background of the different cultures and cuisines. As an Italian jurors this year. How will that inform your reflect Chinese elements. chef, I try to offer diners an authentic culinary judging? experience attuned to the local trends and Juror – Jacqueline Qiu My visual background will take a hike away preferences. The young chefs in the competition As a female professional in the culinary industry, from this competition. For me, taste and respect are representing China, and I hope to see Jacqueline Qiu has held her own in a male- Chinese elements in their dishes. kitchen as well as a food star on Dragon TV Star cookingfor ingredients are important always comefactors first. to evaluate. Next, the Channel.dominated field in a Shanghai five star hotel Juror– Chen Lanshu organization and the ethos behind a contestant’s Witness the 10 contenders compete at the 4th One of Asia’s top female chefs, Chen was behind Last year you were a mentor. How has your S.Pellegrino Young Chef Competiton on Nov 21 at the award-winning Le Moût in Taichung, role evolved this year? the Bellagio Shanghai, 188 Bei Suzhou Lu, by Zhapu Taiwan. Although she decided to close in 2018, Lu, 北苏州路188号, 近乍浦路 (3680 6666) As a mentor, I gave the participants suggestions the restaurant was 28th on Asia’s 50 Best WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 61 EAT & DRINK | NEW BARS

STRAIGHT NO CHASER

PERCH Neighborhood Vibes and Thoughtful Cocktails By Cristina Ng is no stranger to playful cocktails. Some Shanghai summer, we were especially of his best here include ‘Grass Stains’ and Aeagerfter another to welcome blazing the hot transition and humid to fall. The problem is that the typically small window from herbaceous notes, and the former is an For Shanghai’s aspiring bars, this is of comfortable weather has shrunk even inspired‘London Leaves’interpretation (both RMB58). of the classic Both smashbenefit a busy time of year. During October further, with lows hitting below 15-degrees as cocktail featuring gin, basil, cucumber and Holiday, the announcement of the early as mid-October. elderfruit syrup. The other Havana Club World’s 50 Best Bars 2019 revealed 3-year-old rum-based drink is sour from that two Shanghai bars earned spots. humongous wraparound terrace (seriously, lime and passionfruit oleo with a complex Both owned by Shingo Gokan, Speak followEnter it around Perch, thea small-sized building, you bar willwith be a sweetness from green tea syrup and fresh Low came in at number 33 while surprised how much room there is). On our shiso leaf. Sober Company made it to 45. Spicy options like ‘Ginger Vitus’ and seats and thought to ourselves, “Here’s the bar ‘Phoenix’ (RMB58) are worth a try. We love Awards season continues with the we’vefirst visit, looking we sunk for all into summer.” the cushioned al fresco frothy cocktails, so the gingery vodka-based DRiNK Magazine Bar Awards If the bird-themed name didn’t tip you beverage with egg white, Sichuan chili, 2019 on December 9. Invitations off, Perch has loose ties to The Rooster down lemongrass and passionfruit is a favorite. to vote have already been sent out. the street. While that means some of the key Oha Group, Birds of Paradise, guys are involved, they are going for a different lemongrass and Sichuan chili that would Up Shanghai, Beer Lady and Ars experience. There will be no sports on TV or ‘Phoenix’ has a fiery flavor from bell pepper, & Delecto are just a few Shanghai noisy parties, but there will be after work wind nominees vying for recognition. downs and casual catch-ups. benefitNeed from something switching stronger? the tequila ‘Double for its G’ An ambitious list of drinks comes from (RMB58)smokier relative, delivers mezcal. both Beefeater and Peddlers Fever-Tree Brand Ambassador and Bryant Bagsiyao (formerly of Dahlia), who erstwhile proprietor of Tailor Bar, Eddy Yang has been laying low loversgins in mighta grapefruit, want to elderflower try Shanghai liqueur, Love beer planning his next move. After six cocktails,lemon, rosemary like the anddraft soda-filled margarita goblet. or the muleBeer (both RMB45) – there’s also straight-up brews venture called Chameleon. You can – while oenophiles may choose red, white, rosé expectmonths, it he’sto change finally radically announced every a six or sparkling wines (from RMB48). months, including decorations and Food is simple but does the trick. We like menu, hence the name. the house-cured salmon bruschetta (RMB88) with orange, beets and dill sour cream as well On Xiangyang Lu, Daniel An’s Don Club had its grand opening party in with warm puffy squares of pita. mid-October. Nearby, construction has as turmeric-flavoredWhen it comes down hummus to it, (RMB48)we can’t served commenced for Geo Valdivieso’s new remember the last time we had such pleasant concept, Broken Dagger. Watch this cocktails for under RMB100. Taking that and space for more details. Over on Fumin the friendly neighborhood feel into account, Lu, Funkadeli is temporarily closed we’ll be back to Perch often, even in winter. while they build a staircase to their Bring a sweater, just in case. new eatery Italo. Room 107, 445 Jiangning Lu, by Wuding Lu 江宁路 445号107室, 近武定路 Nearest metro: Changping Lu, 14 mins. Open Tue-Sun, 11am-midnight (137 6482 6935)

62 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM NEW BARS | EAT & DRINK

called Mexican, there’s a good bet it will sloe gin (which is gin steeped in sloe berries and needs to be a hit out here in China) and Mexican mule replaces a Russian mule’s it becomes a sloe comfortable screw. Or keep CALL ME BY vodkafeature with tequila tequila. or mezcal. Similarly, For Irishexample, coffee a is spiked with whiskey. As for me, I contain so disco-era classic Harvey Wallbanger. much Irish and Italian liquor in my system the vodka,So, what’s add with Galliano all the float names? and we I think have athe MY NAME that I’d be considered mixed. lot has to do with being creative in a loud bar From there we can delve a bit deeper. setting that needs to set itself apart. Doesn’t How to Order Like a Cosmopolitans, margaritas and sidecars a name like a screwdriver evoke more of an are all in the same family. Their base spirits image to you than just vodka with orange Professional Drinker (vodka, tequila and cognac) are combined juice? By Logan R. Brouse with orange-based liqueur (usually Cointreau We all have our reasons for going to a or Grand Marnier) and tart fruit juice. That’s bar: sometimes it’s for friendship or love; om Collins, John Collins, Juan Collins, usually citrus, but as in the case of the cosmo, to celebrate or to mourn; and maybe also Phil Collins - these are all variations it can be cranberry. for a bit of escapism. Fancy names make the Ton a drink (and one is an awesome At the risk of sounding like an even more experience seem more special than saying, singer). A Tom Collins is a classic grandpa “Hey barman, I’ll have some distilled potato drink that is made from gin, soda, lemon and daisies, coolers and more in this world of water and ginger ale,” when you want a sugar served in a highball glass (aka collins purederanged liquid Willie imagination. Wonka, thereYou might are flips, remember juleps, Moscow Mule. So, learn the lingo and take a glass). To make a John Collins one would from a previous column that any drink can swap out the gin for vodka. For a Juan Collins, be a punch (shout out) if it contains liquor, Phil Collins with friends and strangers in the you would swap out the gin for tequila. And citrus, spice, sugar and water. darknessliquid flight of ofthis fancy city whilethat you singing love. along to for Phil Collins you hit play on ‘Something in Or you can stay in the no stress category the Air Tonight’. “Are all drinks in collins glasses called just gin and grapefruit juice, while adding a Logan’s Screwdriver a Collins?” you ask, while pouring a shot saltof booze rim makes and juice it a cocktails.salty dog. ACape greyhound Codders is √ 2 shots of Jameson whiskey of aquavit into a collins glass and staring are just vodka, cranberry and lime. Heat them √ 2 shots of Fernet menacingly at me with your beady Swedish and the combination of spirit, sweetener eyes. No, strawman that plagues my articles. (usually honey), citrus and hot water is called √ 2 shots of vodka If you serve a base spirit with some soda and a toddy. √ 1 bottle of orange juice ice with the optional addition of citrus wedge This leads to the simple favorite that in a collins glass, you get a highball. Whiskey, I’ve been drinking all month – the mixture Take a highball (or Collins) glass vodka and tequila can all join the highball of orange juice and vodka referred to as the family once you add ice and soda water. Add screwdriver. They were invented by American vodka, before topping with juice. sour mix, and you have a Collins. oil workers in the Persian Gulf, and named and fill it with ice. Then add the Most bar orders are variations on themes. for the tools they used to stir them. I can in a cocktail. Drink the other shots, Let’s start simple. If you order a whiskey neat imagine the guys from the epic 1998 Michael thenRemember: enjoy your you screwdriver.always go booze first with no ice. If you ask for a dry (or bone dry) doppelganger drinking many out on the oil Logan R. Brouse, proprietor and mixologist martini,that means you you are want letting your your booze bartender straight know up rig.Bay blockbuster disaster film starring my of Logan’s Punch and Tacolicious, has run that you want less (or much less) vermouth The point is that cocktails are versatile, bars and clubs in Shanghai for over eight with your chilled base spirit (vodka or gin). and understanding how to order them gets years. In between hangovers, he puts pen This basic knowledge helps us see you the exact beverage you want. So, take a to paper to record his pontifications on the themes on cocktail menus. If something is traditional screwdriver and throw in some drink industry.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 63 See the QR codes on these pages? Scan them to buy tickets to these upcoming events. EVENTS Maybe Mars 12 Year Anniversary

The Kooks

HEAR

Mum

Celebrating 12 years of releasing some of the best Chinese underground and indie rock music, one of our favorite labels is bringing together Jumping Goat (who released new album Walking On The Ice in October), Muzzy Mum and Rejian Bei Shashou for an evening of delightfully dirty music. Formed in Brighton in 2004, the rockers first stole hearts with their debut album Nov 2, 8.30pm; RMB120 presale, Inside In/Inside Out in 2006, which included darling tracks like ‘Naïve’ and ‘She RMB150 door. Yuyintang, 851 Kaixuan Moves in Her Own Way.’ The pop record would come to define the feel-good Lu, by Yan’an Xi Lu 凯旋路851号,近延安 Icelandic electronic group Múm are sound of The Kooks, and was accompanied by such buzz (it went quadruple plati- 西路口 (5237 8662) returning to China this November, hot num in the UK) that the band went on to record a live acoustic version at Abbey on the heels of the release of the 20th Road Studios (you know the one) just a year later. anniversary edition of their seminal, Nov 15, 8.30pm; RMB320 presale, RMB400 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong and highly influential, album Yesterday Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010) Was Dramatic – Today Is OK. Nov 23, 8pm; RMB260 presale. Mao Livehouse, 3F, 308 Chongqing Nan Lu, by Jianguo Zhong Lu 重庆南路308号3楼, 近建国中路

The Drums

Tokyo Shoegazer Martin Garrix

Who doesn’t love a bit of debauched EDM? Martin Garrix, one of the best- known DJs in the world takes to the stage at Space Plus for a dance music Legendary Japanese shoegaze rock extravaganza. Catch the Dutch DJ spin band Tokyo Shoegazer are joined by tunes like ‘Animals’ and ‘Scared to be one of the best young bands in China Lonely.’ Deemed the next big thing after the release of their debut self-titled album, which today, Default. Tokyo Shoegazer went Nov 9, 11pm; RMB480 presale, RMB680 saw them sounding like jangle pop New Order acolytes, and which included stand- on a seemingly endless hiatus for five door. Space Plus, 1833 Binjiang Da Dao out tracks like ‘Let’s Go Surfing’ and ‘Forever and Ever,’ reception cooled on The years before announcing their return near Pudong Nan Lu 滨江大道1833号，近 Drums with their later albums, as they became less hook-driven and exploratory. at the beginning of this year, much to 浦东南路 (6555 5558) Jonathan Pierce and his band arrive in China with album number five, Brutalism, in the delight of their fans in China and the bag. around the world. Nov 14, 8.30pm; RMB300 presale, RMB350 door. Mao Livehouse, 3F, 308 Chongqing Dec 1, 7.30pm; RMB180 presale, Nan Lu, by Jianguo Zhong Lu 重庆南路308号3楼, 近建国中路 RMB200 door. Yuyintang Park, 1398 Yuyuan Lu, by Changning Lu 愚园路 1398号, 近长宁路 (5237 8662)

64 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM New Noise 10 Year Yogee New Waves Anniversary

HEAR

Swim Deep Celebrating 10 years of awesome shows in China, New Noise have a big November planned. Besides bringing awesome bands like Mum and Deafhaven on tour, New Noise bring together Blue Foundation, Mum and Japanese band Yogee New Waves are one of the foremost Japanese bands keep- Dalian post rocker Wang Wen for a ing city pop alive. They head to China for a number of shows, plus appearances show in Shanghai this month. at Modern Sky’s Strawberry Festival, on the back of their March release, album Nov 23, 8pm; RMB260 presale. Mao BLUEHARLEM. Livehouse, 3F, 308 Chongqing Nan Lu, Nov 22, 8.30pm; RMB200 presale, RMB280 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong by Jianguo Zhong Lu 重庆南路308号3楼, Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010) 近建国中路

Birmingham (the English one) band Swim Deep combine a variety of influences that dip into genres like dream pop, shoegaze and indie rock to create Allie X songs that are hard to pin down, but easy to listen to. Their third album, Emerald Classic, dropped in October sees the band sounding as good as they ever have, according to NME. Nov 27, RMB240 presale, RMB300 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010)

Rye Music Festival

Gang of Four

Canadian singer and songwriter Allie X is slated to perform in China for the first time ever in December. The indie pop icon got her start in Toronto in 2006, but her career really began to take off after she moved to LA in 2013. Since then, she’s released her debut single “Catch,” which rose to number 55 on the Canadian Hot 100 and was highly praised by Katy Perry on Twitter as her “spring jam.” Her acclaimed EP CollXtion I was released in 2015, followed by two studio albums: After canceling their tour dates in China CollXtion II: Unsolved (2017) and Super after sole-remaining member from the Sunset (Analog) (2018). Allie X has release of their seminal punk album, also collaborated with artists such as Entertainment, Andy Gill injured himself Troye Sivan and Lea Michele. The song- at a show in Brooklyn, these iconic writer co-wrote Sivan’s “Youth,” Blue rockers are finally making their way to Neighborhood and LP Bloom. In addi- China. After founding in 2018 in Beijing, Rye Music Festival is expanding to take in new tion to her amazing vocals and songs, Nov 23, 8.30pm; RMB280 presale, Allie X is known for her highly fashion- RMB330 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 horizons. The first ever Shanghai-based Rye Music Festival takes place at the beginning of November, with a host of fantastic Chinese bands on the line-up, including able outfits and dramatic live shows. Ruihong Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号 You can check out her Shanghai per- 3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010) The Big Band contestants Click #15, Hedgehog and Miserable Faith, as well as one of our favorite Taiwan singers (who is yet to be announced). Snag your tickets now formance on December 1 at VasLive. while you still can. This is one concert that should not be Nov 2-3, 12.30pm; RMB320-450. Shanghai International Music Vil-lage, 188, Lane 399 missed. Shendi Dong Lu 迪斯尼申迪东路399弄188号, 近沪芦高速 Dec 1, 8pm; RMB280. VasLive, 3/F, 19 Wanhangdu Hou Lu, by Changshou Lu 万航渡后路19号沪西文化艺术中心3楼, 近长寿路 (182 2139 1480)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 65 Art021 SAMAJAM Kids Show 2

Hooked’s Melbourne Cup Seafood Luncheon China’s most popular musical kids show is headed back to Shanghai. At Samajam: Kids Show 2 (Djembe), everyone in the audience receives a SAMAJAM Music Bag which contains drumsticks, tambourines, a musical tube and an African djembe. Art fair season is returning to Shanghai and it’s time to get hyped. You can now Throughout the show, kids and the grab early bird tickets to Art021 at a reduced price of RMB100 until November 8, entire family learn and play with after which tickets will cost RMB150. Taking place at Shanghai Exhibition Center the instruments, as they are led by over the course of four days, from November 7-10, Art021 brings together 110 SAMAJAM performers on stage. galleries from 18 countries and 57 cities. Seventy percent of the galleries that will Nov 8 at 7:30pm, Nov 9-10 at 10.30am take part in the fair have galleries in China or other regions of Asia, making Art021 & 3.30pm. RMB180-700. a vitally important arena in which galleries reach out to new audiences. Fans of ET Space, 433 Yan’an contemporary art can enjoy sections like Detour, Beyond and Approach, with each Dong Lu, by Yunnan Nan of these sections allowing something a little bit different. Detour investigates Euro- Lu 延安东路433号, 近云 It’s time to pick out your hats, ladies, American geographic networks and narratives. Beyond allows for larger art works by 南南路 (6375 5666) as Tuesday November 5 sees Australia’s placing them outside of the fair. Approach gives a platform for young, interesting most prestigious annual thoroughbred and upcoming galleries. horse race, the Melbourne Cup. In Nov 7-10 (Nov 7/8 are invitation only), 11am-6pm; RMB100. Shanghai honor of the thunder of hooves on Exhibition Center, 1,000 Yan’an Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Lu 延安中路 Der Elefantenpups - Ein turf, Hooked is hosting a Melbourne 1000号, 近陕西路 (2216 2216) Tierischer Geheimplan Cup Seafood Luncheon, with RMB350 securing you a three-course meal, with free-flow Prosecco, Aperol Spritz, wine, beer and gin and tonics. Get a table of six together and you can book for just RMB1,500. The big race will of course be shown on the big screen. Oh, and there will be sweepstakes and prizes for best dressed. Nov 5, 11am-3pm, RMB350 per person China Shanghai International Children’s Book Fair or RMB1,500 for a table of six. Hooked, B/1, Found 158, 158 Julu Lu, by Ruijin Yi Lu 巨鹿路 158号B1层, 近瑞金一路 (6333 2198)

West Bund Art & Design

If you’re looking for a fun, interactive and kid-friendly event, you’re in luck! The music-filled Der Elefantenpups - Ein Tierischer Geheimplan will be held at Shanghai City Theatre on November 15-16. This time around, a new animal joins the zoo: a young female panda named Mei Yue. Being in a new place means she’s suffering from homesick- ness and would do anything to be able to return home to China. The zoo animals work together and hatch a secret plan to cheer up Mei Yue. They make music for her with their instruments. In Calling all bookworms! The seventh China Shanghai International Children’s Book Coinciding with the long-awaited the end, the panda cub is able to hap- Fair (CCBF) is headed back to town. The event will take place in Shanghai from opening of West Bund Museum and pily settle into her new home with her November 15-17. CCBF is not only a leading copyright exchange hub for children’s equipped with a brand-new logo, the new friends. Throughout the journey, books (ages 0 to 16 years), but it’s the perfect outlet to inspire school teachers, sixth edition of West Bund Art & Design kids can learn about various musical parents, children, book lovers, collectors, illustrators and translators. This year, more welcomes 98 galleries from 18 different instruments and their unique timbres than 60,000 new books from 70 countries and regions will be presented as part of countries, including 28 galleries who through a fun and sweet story. Your a worldwide celebration of children’s reading. Not only can visitors buy a variety of will take part for the first time. little ones are sure to love it! original books but CCBF will offer 200 activities and events during Nov 7-10, check the event schedule for Nov 15 at 7.30pm & the three-day event. individual times; West Bund Art & Design Nov 16 at 10.30am, ; Nov 15-16, 9am-5pm and Nov 17, 9am-4pm; RMB20-75. Shanghai Center, 2555 Long Teng Avenue, Xuhui RMB120-380. Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Centre, 1099 Guozhan Lu, by District 龙腾大道2555号, 近龙耀路 City Theatre, 4889 Dushi Zhoujiadu Lu 国展路1099号, 周家渡路 (2022 5186) Lu, by Mingdu Lu 都市路 4889号, 近名都路 (5415 9123) 66 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LOOKING AHEAD

Luke Thompson Beatrich

Thompson, a songwriter and self-managed artist, first rose to fame in late 2005 Beatrich, who taught herself how to play the piano as a child, rose to global star- with his debut single ‘Morning Light,’ which spent 11 weeks on the NZ Radio top dom after the release of her 2017 smash hit single ‘Superstar.’ According to Clash 40 charts. His first full-length album, 2007’s Here On The Ground, was a huge magazine, the 21 year old is riding high on the back of over 1 billion streams of her success, with songs like ‘Perfect Drive,’ ‘Bleed’ and ‘Morning Light’ winning over music in China. This is her second tour through China this year, after she arrived in audiences for their intimate acoustic sound. Thompson went on to release more the Middle Kingdom in May. Her most recent single, ‘Runaway’ was released in early solo works, including The Water EP in 2011, To The Common Dark in 2012, Strum 2019 and has already racked up close to 2 million views. Strum EP in 2015, Hosts in 2016 and Other Lost Songs in 2018. Fans have come to Dec 6, 8pm; RMB380. Bandai Namco, 179 Yichang Lu, by Jiangning Lu 宜昌路179号, enjoy Thompson’s gentle songs that are stripped bare and self-sufficient, the sound 近江宁路 (6266 3191) of a songwriter with only himself for company. Dec 8, 8pm; RMB180. VasLive, 3/F, 19 Wanhangdu Hou Lu, by Changshou Lu 万航渡后路19号沪西文化艺术中心3楼, 近长寿路 (182 2139 1480)

The Blue Man Group Come From Away

The classic performance trio the Blue Man Group is headed to Shanghai this year. The longest-running Canadian musical in Broadway history, Come From Away, is Expect to laugh, rock out and have a blast at the fun-filled show for all ages as the coming to Shanghai. The show, which was a critical and box office success dur- Blue Man Group showcases their comedic, musical and artistic talents. Join over 35 ing its run on Broadway, tells the story of what happened when 38 interna-tional million fans who have attended Blue Man Group performances, on a trip led by the airplanes and more than 7,000 passengers were forced to land in Gander in boldest, baldest and bluest guys on the planet. Although shows will be on from Newfoundland after the September 11 attacks in 2001. Produced by ACOrange, December 23-January 5, tickets sell out fast so we suggest snagging Junkyard Dog Productions and Rodney Rigby, the musical’s stop in some while you still can! China, from May 8-24 in 2020, will be its first production in a non- Dec 26-Jan 5, RMB80-1,080. 1862 Theatre, 1777 Binjiang Dadao, 1862 English speaking country. 时尚艺术中心, 滨江大道1777号 May 8-24, 7.30pm; RMB200-1,000. SAIC Shanghai Culture Square, 597 Fuxing Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu 复兴中路597号, 近陕西南路 (5461 9961)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 67 PICK OF SIX

A Turning Moment – Urban Narratives in Chinese Contemporary Art 1995-2019 Until Dec 15 Shanghai Duolun Museum Of Modern Art, 27 Duolun Lu, by Sichuan Bei Lu 多伦路27号, 近四川北路 (6587 2530)

High-Speed Forms – Zhang Ding Until Mar 8 OCAT Shanghai, Sunken Gardens, Bldg. 9 Qufu Lu, Jing’an District 静安区曲阜路9弄下沉庭院 (6608 5119)

Bob Dylan Retrospectrum Until Jan 5 Shanghai Modern Art Museum, 4777 Binjiang Da Dao, by Pudian Lu 滨江大道 PICK OF SIX 4777号, 近浦电路 (thMart.com.cn) ART EXHIBITIONS

Just What Is It That Makes Today’s Computers So Intriguing, So Nonsensical? – Group Exhibition Until Dec 26 Chronus Art Center, Bldg 18, 50 Moganshan Lu, by Aomen Lu 莫干山路 50号18号楼, 近澳门路 (5271 5789)

The Annual Report of OCD – Zhang Peili Until Oct 31 Ren Space, No.10, 133 Shangwen Lu, by Rear Windows – Li Qing Henan Nan Lu 尚文路133弄10号, 近河南 Until Jan 19 南路 (6346 2033) Prada Rong Zhai, 186 Shaanxi Bei Lu, by Nanjing Xi Lu 陕西北路186号, 近南京西路 (2218 0200)

68 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA

Brief History of the People’s Republic of China gives a concise, albeit full, account of the glori- A ous history, great achievements and valuable experience of the People’s Republic of China over the past 70 years. Rich with illustrations, the book mirrors the struggles and practices of the Communist Party of China and the Chinese people over these seven decades since the founding of the PRC, and provides explana- tions for the internal logic involved in the great historic changes during this period. This is a book that will help the international community understand the advan- tages of the path, theory, system and culture of social- ism with Chinese characteristics behind the historic achievements since 1949. CITY SCENES

IAPM shopping mall staged a ‘Glowing Style’ fashion festival, allowing Hilton has debuted the campaign ‘Expect Better, Expect Hilton’ in customers to view fashion trends of from the world’s four major fashion China. Chinese consumers nowadays expect to solve most of their weeks, a glimpse of the 2019 autumn and winter fashion trends and living demands on mobile devices and get digital support across the brand’s new release. IAPM mall also specially created the “Phantom various life scenarios. The campaign encourages Chinese consumers and Nishang” art installations, creating a dazzling fashion show to gain lightning-fast services, great value and a positive experience through the changing lights and stage mirror reflections. when booking through Hilton’s official digital channels, including the Chinese Hilton Honors iOS and Android Apps, WeChat Mini Program and website.

Shanghai IFC malls have more than 260 world-class top brands, which Tiffany & Co., a world-famous jewelry and watch brand, held an are called ‘luxury brand halls.’ The opening of new flagship stores, such opening party for a new exhibition at the Shanghai Fosun Art Center. as Saint Laurent, signifies the largest number of high-end brands in The exhibition, which is broken into six chapters, such as Blue Is the shopping malls in China. Color of Dreams, The World of Tiffany, The Tiffany Blue Book, Tiffany Love, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Diamonds: Miracles of Nature, showed off over 350 precious pieces of Tiffany.

The Loch Lomond Group, an independent distiller and blender of some of the finest and rarest Scotch whiskies in the world, announced the official establishment of its China operations. Loch Lomond China, headquartered in Shanghai, aims to expand the brand’s presence and A VIP experience activity for the Vichy 89 tough skin tour was recently product distribution in the rapidly-growing whisky markets of China held in Shanghai. At the event site, senior leaders of the brand’s asia- and Asia. pacific region led media in experiencing the flying skincare journey brought by Vichy 89 series.

70 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Le Ville Residence Shanghai Jing ‘an service apartment, a boutique BANYAN TREE Hotels & Resorts opened its ‘Pink & Wellness’ activity serviced apartment product of Yango Group officially opened in in October. The hotel joined hands with international brands such as October. The project is the second landing project of Le Ville Residence Lady M, BYMB, Maia Active and Sugarmat at the 270-degree infinity in Shanghai and another milestone for Yango Group in expanding its river view terrace, TOPS. business territory in Shanghai.

Durapower Holdings Pte Ltd, a Singapore home-grown lithium Royal Caribbean International announced the homeport and name battery company with an international presence, unveils the new of its fifth Oasis Class ship. The next ship to join the leading cruise factory of its subsidiary - Suzhou Durapower Technology Ltd - with a line’s innovative lineup will be named Wonder of the Seas and grand opening ceremony at Changshu, which featured member of set sail from Shanghai – its year-round home. The details were Parliament of the Republic of Singapore and chairman of Business revealed by Royal Caribbean President and CEO Michael Bayley at China, Mr. Lee Yi Shyan on the left and Deputy Mayor of Changshu, a global cruise industry conference event held in Shanghai. Deputy Secretary of the Party Working Committee and Deputy Director of the Management Committee of Changshu Economic and Technological Development Zone, Mr. Shi Hong Liang on the right.

In September, Shanghai Jiuting Gemdale Plaza held its grand opening. Sunac Xindi Residence- Shanghai Xiangyi, a high-end service Two-day foot traffic exceeded 300,000, and two-day turnover reached residence brand created by SUNAC Gem Commercial Management RMB14.2 million. 212 brands, thematic all-day activities and the G+ Co., celebrated its first anniversary in September. Sunac Xindi Family membership system appeared as scheduled. Residence- Shanghai Xiangyi located at Guangxin area, takes cues from the pursuit of an aspirational living experience and sensory enjoyment.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 71 HOTEL NEWS

DoubleTree by Hilton Yangzhou Holds Grand Opening Ceremony The event consisted of an official opening ceremony, followed by a gala lunch reception. 200 honorable guests were invited for the opening, including Hilton senior management, local media and a number of invited guests. Highlights of the event included a ribbon cutting ceremony, a lion dance and a cocktail reception with local culture and delicacies based around a Dongguan Lu theme. Located in the administrative center of Hanjiang district, DoubleTree by Hilton Yangzhou is just 6.5 kilometers away from downtown Yangzhou and the closest railway station. The hotel is an ideal choice whether you are travelling for business or leisure.

New General Manager at Hyatt Regency Shanghai Global Harbor Artyzen Habitat Launch New Brand, ‘Ji’ Concept Ms. Amane Karazawa has appointed as the new General Manager of Artyzen Habitat officially unveiled its creative concept ‘Jí’ with an Hyatt Regency Shanghai Global Harbor. A dedicated hotelier, she brings innovative and unique launch event at their Artyzen Habitat Hongqiao a wealth of experience and industry expertise along with an excellent Shanghai property at the end of September. Connecting a series of understanding of sales and marketing, and professional knowledge of mysterious clues, the launch event included a live show that brought the operational and management requirements of Hyatt and the region, together three elements – a post-‘90s photographer, ageless models and will lead the team to a new level of excellence. “I am thrilled and Shanghai local hand spun Tubu (blue cloth) fabric, alongside a to start a new journey at Hyatt Regency Shanghai Global Harbor, a special sensory experience pop-up gallery, and a collection of activations destination full of happiness and novelty,” said Ms. Karazawa. that connected travellers to the local community.

InterContinental Hotels Team Up For InterContinental Concierge Day Exciting Vertical Run at Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai Six InterContinental hotels joined together to celebrate Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai turned held a unique charity event ‘InterContinental Concierge Day’. ‘Explore the Spirit of Craftsmanship’ in the form of a vertical charity run in October. Around 500 runners was the mission of the day for the InterContinental concierge team, conquered 1,557 steps to reach the finishing line on the 60th floor. The as participants discovered the beauty of traditional Shanghai culture event raised a total of RMB149,830 for Children’s Medical Centre to through a variety of fun and exciting activities. help underprivileged children.

72 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS LISTINGS Scan for complete listings Want to see all restaurants, hotels and more in Shanghai? Check out www.thatsmags.com or download our app by scanning the QR code.

ingredients for the boiler in order to extract F, Grand Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, main dining room, where guests can enjoy RESTAURANTS the primary flavors nature has to offer. 1) 7/F, by Baibu Jie 陆家嘴环路 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 signature cocktails created by a mixologist from Takashimaya Department Store, 1438 Hongqiao 2 楼，近百步街 (3867 9199) Milan. 2/F, 378 Wukang Lu, by Xingguo Lu (5404 AMERICAN Lu, by Manao Lu (6295 2117) 2) (NEW) 4/F, 1235). Sun-Thu 11am-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 11am- Reel Department Store, 1601 Nanjing Xi Lu, by VUE Dining This restaurant is designed to create 10.30pm. 武康路 378 号 2 楼 , 近兴国路 Changde Lu (6258 8777) Daily 10.30am-11pm 1) marvelous dining experience in privacy with AE KITCHEN NOT JUST BRUNCH. One of the one of the city’s best skyline views. Featuring most popular brunch places in town! 1) 491 虹桥路 1438 号高岛屋百货 7 楼 , 近玛瑙路 2) 南京西路 1601 号芮欧百货 4 楼 , 近常德路 authentic handmade dim sum and Cantonese Yuyuan Lu, by Zhenning Lu (6241 3233) 2) 457 cuisine, it is an ideal venue for family celebrations Jumen Lu, by Runan Jie (3159 5833) 1) 愚园路 491 and friends’ gatherings. 31/F, West Tower, Hyatt 号 , 近镇宁路 2) 局门路 457 号 , 近汝南街 CANTONESE on the Bund, 199 Huangpu Lu, by Wuchang Tacolicious Delicious tacos (obviously) with bar Lu (63931234-6330) Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am- 2.30pm; Sat&Sun: 11.30am-3.30pm; Dinner: focusing on tequila and margaritas. This red- Canton Disco This traditional Cantonese Daily 5.30pm-10.30pm www.hyattonthebund. bricked two-story restaurant is modern Mexican restaurant concept with a contemporary update com 黄浦路 199 号 , 上海外滩茂悦大酒店西楼 31 层 , (fusion) marvel, serving tacos of the double- at its fore offers a high energy atmosphere, 近武昌路 decker variety. One of the few spots in the addictive cuisine and unpretentious service that neighborhood with an outdoor rooftop patio, paints a perfect picture of modern Shanghai. 2F, YUE Chinese Restaurant is presenting an Tacolicious is intimate and trimmed with fairy- Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 exciting blend of local & traditional Cantonese light filled tequila bottles. Tues-Sun, 12pm-11pm. Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 dishes served in a modern atmosphere boasting 1 Yueyang Lu, by Dongping Lu, 岳阳路 1 号 , 近东 9521) 5.30-10.30pm. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊 nine private dining rooms. 2/F, Pullman Shanghai 平路 (13764060741) 酒店辅楼 2 楼 , 近江西中路 South, 1 Pubei Lu, by Liuzhou Lu (2426 8888) Lunch 11.30am - 2pm; Dinner 5.30– 9.30pm 浦北 Element Fresh Delivery to the rescue! Ming Court With chefsí adept in culinary 路 1 号 , 上海中星铂尔曼大酒店 2 楼 , 近柳州路 Bored of Breakfast? Lost for Lunch? Dinner creativity, Ming Court presents exquisite dilemmas? Give the English-speaking delivery Cantonese cuisine with a twist, offering authentic hotline a buzz and order from a wide variety of flavors and refined wine pairings to create a Si Fang San Chuan Showcasing the art of wholesome gourmet salads, fresh fruit juices, wonderful culinary experience. On top of dim HUAIYANG RESTAURANT Southwestern Chinese cuisine with a touch of amazing appetizers, scrumptious lunch or dinner sum and dessert menus, the restaurant also modern understanding and creative presentation, entrees, and American style breakfasts. Instant offer a la carte and set menus as well as some RIVER DRUNK specializes in grand Huaiyang this Bund-side restaurant offers flavors that are confirmation, pay by mobile pay or credit card, or seasonal specialities. The wide selection of dishes cuisine and fresh seafood, offering tradi- adjusted to suit the local palate. Meanwhile, a bar even cash-on delivery. Scan the QR code & select also include some award-winning Ming Court tional southeastern delicacies in a charming and inspired by Shanghainese cultural heritage is also ‘Order Now’, or visit www.ElementFresh.com & signatures. Level B1, 333 Shenhong Lu, Cordis, refined environment. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, another highlight of the concept. Lunch 11am- select ‘Delivery’. Element Fresh has 16 restaurants Shanghai, Hongqiao, by Suhong Lu (5263 9618) 6-10.30pm. 5/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 3pm, Dinner 5-10pm. (6033 5833). L2, N3 Bldg, across Shanghai! Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am – 2.30pm, Sat-Sun Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 North, Bund Finance Center, 600 Zhongshan 11am – 3pm; Dinner: Mon-Sun 5.30-10pm 申虹 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路 2nd Road(E), Huangpu District, Shanghai, China POP This all-day dining American Brasserie at 路 333 号 B1 层，虹桥康得思酒店，近苏虹路 200010 中山东二路 600 号外滩金融中心北区 N3 栋 Three on the Bund pays tribute to the 1970s 二层 , 近枫泾路 200010 American pop culture with vintage decor featur- Shàng-Xí This elegant Chinese restaurant at SICHUAN ing chandeliers along with wood, leather and the Four Seasons Hotel Pudong showcases the stone elements that create a warm atmosphere. very best of Cantonese cuisine, and has earned Influenced by the chic vibe of Miami, the new its reputation as one of the top-rated restaurant SHANGHAINESE POP bar offers a range of light and fruity drinks, on the Chinese mainland by Forbes Travel Guide completed with a lively music selection. Mon- for five years. Lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner: Club Jin Mao With superlative views overlooking Sun 11am-11pm. 7/F, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, 5.30-10pm. (2036 1310). 2/F, Four Seasons Hotel the Shanghai skyline, Club Jin Mao is one of the by Guangdong Lu [email protected]. www. Pudong, Shanghai, 210 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui most prestigious Shanghainese restaurants in the threeonthebund.com. 中山东一路 3 号 7 楼 , 近广东 Huan Lu. 世纪大道 210 号上海浦东四季酒店二楼 , 近 city, offering exquisite and authentic Shanghai- 路 . (6321 0909) 陆家嘴环路 nese cuisine. Daily from 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30- 10.30pm. 86/F, Grand Hyatt Shanghai, Jin Mao Summer Palace Combining South-Eastern Tower, 88 Shiji Dadao, by Yincheng Zhong Lu CHINESE Chinese cuisine with Cantonese flair, the Summer (5047 8838) www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com 上 Palace enhances gastronomical sensations with a 海金茂君悦大酒店 86 楼 , 浦东新区世纪大道 88 号 , poetic visual dreamscape. Open hour: Breakfast 近银城中路 HOT-POT from 7am to 10am; Lunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm(Mon – Fri)\10am to 2.30pm(Sat & Gui Hua Lou Gui Hua Lou offers the very best of Qimin Organic Hotpot Marketplace Qimin, the Sun);Dinner from 5.30pm to 10pm. (86 21) 2203 authentic Huaiyang cuisines. Chef Gao creates an restaurant originated from Taiwan and created 8889 3/F, Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai, entrancing blend of two worlds, traditional dishes by the same people who brought us “GREEN & 1218 Yan’an Zhong, by Tongren Lu. 静安香格里拉 with modern interpretations all in the ambiance SAFE.” The bustling marketplace environment 大酒店三楼，延安中路 1218 号，近铜仁路 . of distinctive Chinese décor. 1/F River Wing, is filled with organic groceries, fresh seafood,a Pudong Shangri-La, 33 Fucheng Lu, by Lujiazui variety of vegetables, assorted meats, open Suntime Century Relax in our lavish private Huan Lu (2828 6888). Open daily, 11.30am- kitchen food stands and diners surrounded by rooms and allow our food to delight your senses Sichuan Citizen Originally opened in 2009, 3pm (lunch), 5.30-10pm (dinner). fbreservation. lively marketplace food stands, creating a real with wonderful tastes, textures and aroma. Sichuan Citizen moved into its new home at [email protected], www.shangri-la.com/ food bazaar atmosphere. Every item on the menu Offering authentic cuisine from the Canton, Ferguson Lane in 2018, where Head Chef Mao shanghai/pudongshangrila. 富城路 33 号，近陆家 is carefully selected from the original source, Hunan and Shanghai regions, guests can embark and his whole crew from Chengdu continues to 嘴环路 making sure all ingredients are completely natural on an exploration of Chinese culinary excellence. serve spicy and delicious classic Sichuan dishes to Lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5.30-10pm. 2/ their fans. The restaurant also houses a cocktail The Crystal Garden Bathed in natural light, the or organic. Without exception, all dishes are Chinese restaurant Crystal Garden offers the from “Farm to Table” using the most natural bar named Bar Basil located right next to the

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 73 LISTINGS

very best of authentic Chinese cuisine including city’super 超 • 生活店内 2) 美罗城店 – 肇嘉浜路 Mare Western Restaurant It’s the only place ingredients. PHÉNIX also features an intimate yet provincial cuisines plus high-quality seafood. The 1111 号地下一层 3) 梅龙镇伊势丹店 – 南京西路 1038 where you can taste Marseille Seafood Hotpot! vibrant lounge space, allowing guests to enjoy restaurant's garden-style setting and professional, 号地下一层 4) 大上海时代广场店 – 淮海中路 99 号地 The tomahawk steak is the best in Shanghai. classic minimalist cocktails and an impressive wine friendly team makes The Crystal Garden a popular 下一层 city’super 超 • 生活店内 5) 环贸广场店 - 淮 Hotel Pravo, 2/F Mare Western Restaurant 299 selection with 250 labels. Level 2, 1 Changde Lu, venue for intimate wedding banquets and private 海中路 99 号地下一层 city’super Wusong Lu, by Kunshan Lu 吴淞路 299 号宝御酒店 by Yan’an Xi Lu Daily 6.30am – 11pm, phenix@ functions. 5/F, The Westin Bund Center Shanghai, 超 • 生活店内 6) 兴业太古汇店 - 南京西路 789 号兴 2 楼 , 近昆山路 thepuli.com, phenix.thepuli.com (2216 6988) 上 88 Henan Zhong Lu, by Guangdong Lu (6103 业太古汇地下二层 city’super 超 • 生活店内海璞麗酒店二楼，常德路 1 号，近延安西路 5048) Lunch: 11am – 2.30pm (Mon-Fri), 11am – Oceans Dining in a romantic and contemporary 2.30pm (Saturday & Sunday, Yum Cha); Dinner: setting, an extensive array of selected premium 5.30pm – 10pm (Daily). 河南中路 88 号上海威斯汀 DELI SHOPS products from the sea. A distinct and innovative 大饭店 5 楼，近广东路 gourmet experience to satisfy the most discerning Green & Safe With an organic farm in Kunshan, of tastes, Ocean fully realizes the art of cooking. this organic store provides daily delivered Lobby floor, Banyan Tree Shanghai On The Bund, vegetables and a variety of local and imported 19 Haiping Lu, by Gongping Lu (2509 1188) organic goods, such as organic extra virgin olive Lunch 11.30am – 2.30pm; Dinner 5.30– 9.30pm. oil, white and red balsamic vinegar, organic banyantree.com 海平路 19 号悦榕庄 1 楼 , 近公平路 pasta, muesli and more. 30% off on all breads ON56 This four-in-one restaurant at Grand Hyatt after 7pm everyday in Dongping branch. 1) 6 Shanghai offers the best cuts of prime beef from Dongping Lu, by Hengshan Lu 5465 1288, 1/ the Grill, sumptuous Italian classics from Cucina, F: 8am-10pm; 2/F: 6pm-12am 2) 2) 4/F, 1438 top-shelf sushi from Kobachi and delectable Hongqiao Lu, by Hongbaoshi Lu 10am–9.30pm 1) sweets from Patio. Daily from 11.30am-2.30pm, 东平路 6 号 , 近衡山路 2) 虹桥路 1438 号 4 楼 , 近红 5.30-10.30pm; 56/F, Grand Hyatt Shanghai, Jin 宝石路 Mao Tower, 88 Shiji Dadao, by Yincheng Zhong Kempi Deli Freshly baked homely bites including Lu (5047 8838) www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com freshly baked bread, muffins, cakes, chocolates, 上海金茂君悦大酒店 56 楼 , 浦东新区世纪大道 88 号 , 近银城中路 pastries, ice-creams, sandwiches, cold cuts and Polux by Paul Pairet Located in Xintiandi, Polux cheese will make a visit to Kempi Deli something RuiKu Restaurant The rooftop restaurant RuiKu is a French café and casual bistro by Paul Pairet, to look forward to any day. You won’t know serves fine-casual dining with a sharing concept. Chef de Cuisine of culinary powerhouse Mr & where to start! 50% off on all breads after 18:00 Enjoy the stunning view of the Bund’s historic Mrs Bund and three Michelin-starred Ultraviolet. daily. (3867 8888) Hours: 7.30am-7pm. 2/F, waterfront and Pudong’s futuristic skyline. Daily Bringing contemporary French comfort food to Grand Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, 12-10.30pm. 21/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, an international crowd, brunch and cafe staples is The Chinoise Story A unique restaurant 陆家嘴环路 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 by Baibu Jie 538 Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 the backbone of the menu, adorned by afternoon featuring radically fused cooking styles. Lovely 2 楼，近百步街 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路 munchies and light dinner. Business hour: Mon- space. Expect classic Chinese dishes served in Sun: 10am -10pm. No. 5, Lane 181, Taicang Lu, individual portions rather than family style. SAVOR All Day Dining Restaurant offers by Huangpi Nan Lu. (6333 9897, poluxbypp.com) Cathay Building, Jin Jiang Hotel, 59 Maoming FINE DINING Western and Eastern cuisine showcasing an open 太仓路 181 弄 5 号，近黄陂南路 Nan Lu, by Changle Lu (6445 1717) 11am- interactive kitchen with buffet and a la carte 2.30pm; 6-10.30pm 茂名南路 59 号锦江饭店北楼底 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana An extension of options. 2/F, Pullman Shanghai South, 1 Pubei Lu, Vue Restaurant Enjoy classic European fare with 层 , 近长乐路 the three Michelin Star venue (by the same name) by Liuzhou Lu (2426 8888) Daily 6am - 12pm 浦 one of the city’s best skyline views. 30/F Hyatt on in Hong Kong, a fantastic fine dining fare that 北路 1 号 , 上海中星铂尔曼大酒店 2 楼 , 近柳州路 the Bund, 199 Huangpu Lu, by Wuchang Lu (6393 will leave you both comforted and breathless. 1234-6328) Daily 6-11pm 黄浦路 199 号 , 上海外滩 Sir Elly’s Restaurant & Bar Dine on fine modern CAFES 6-7/F, 169 Yuanmingyuan Lu, by Beijing Dong Lu 茂悦大酒店西楼 30 楼 , 近武昌路 European cuisine while overlooking the Huangpu (6087 2890) 圆明园路 169 号 6-7 楼 , 近北京东路 Beans & Grapes Casual and modern, Beans & River. Expert cocktails offered at both the circular FUSION Grapes focuses on wholesome comfort meals Canton Table With nostalgic ambiance inspired bar and the expansive 14th floor terrace. 13/F and refreshments. It’s a great option for a healthy by shikumen lanehouses and glamorous buildings The Peninsula Shanghai, 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi grab-and-go lunch or dinner. The Sukhothai along the Bund, this new Cantonese dining Lu, by Nanjing Dong Lu (2327 6756) Lunch daily Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Shimen Yi Lu concept at Three on the Bund dances between 12-2.30pm; Dinner Sun-Thurs: 6-10.30pm; Fri-Sat (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近石门一路 the old and the new, bringing Shanghai diners 6-11pm www.peninsula.com/Shanghai/en/Dining/ the essence of the culinary culture of Guangdong. Sir_Ellys_Restaurant/default.aspx 中山东一路 32 号 CHA Lounge CHA Lounge is the place for a well- Whether you’re craving some home-style cooking 上海半岛酒店 13 楼 , 近南京东路 deserved afternoon break. An extensive selection or sophisticated delicacies, Canton Table offers Shanghai Tavern Jason Atherton’s all-day dining, of traditional Chinese and Western tea and an extensive selections, featuring high quality brasserie-style restaurant draws inspirations delicacies, delicious beverages and international fresh ingredients and traditional cooking skills. from Elliot Hazzard’s period architecture and wines, as well as pastries, homemade chocolates Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm, Sat- magnificent coffered ceiling. Its design is a nod and macaroons are offered daily. Guests can also Sun 11.30am-3pm, 5.30-10.30pm. cantontable@ to the layers of history behind the Shanghai treat themselves to an exquisite afternoon tea on-the-bund.com. www.threeonthebund.com.5/ Power Company Building. 1F, Heritage Building, buffet at RMB108 per person which is offered F, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu 中 The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, daily. Open daily, 8am-8pm. Afternoon tea 山东一路 3 号 5 楼 , 近广东路 . (6321 3737) buffet, 2.30-5.30pm. 1/F, 1555 Dingxi Lu, by by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9511). 6-10:30am, Yuyuan Lu (6240 8888-8155) 定西路 1555 号巴黎 Cathay Room & 9 Level Terrace With intimate 11:30am-11pm. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店春天新世界酒店 1 楼 , 近愚园路 seating and expansive views of the Bund, the 辅楼 1 楼，近江西中路 Cathay Room and Terrace offers a sociable dining Coffee Tree With a light and airy European experience with elegantly presented European look, the cozy spot offers an array of fresh contemporary style cuisine. Let your senses be FRENCH Mercedes me Store, The Bund This culinary and homemade items including salads, tantalized by the delicate flavors prepared by spinoff courtesy of the luxury German automaker sandwiches, quiche, pasta, and cakes using the our culinary team, revealing a European ‘haute Jean Georges One Michelin star restaurant Jean- offers creative fusion international cuisine with finest ingredients. Ferguson Lane, 376 Wukang cuisine’ approach to fine dining; complete Georges is the world-renowned eponymous chef’s the theme of ‘Respect the Mother Nature.’ Lu, by Tai’an Lu (6466 0361) Mon-Sun 9am- with organic items and ecologically responsible first signature restaurant outside of New York. Perfect for guests seeking a novel and refined 10pm www.coffeetreecafe.com.cn 武康路 376 号 , producers. Featuring an extensive wine list and At the Bund-side restaurant, guests can enjoy his dining experience, the ambiance and dishes 近泰安路 beverage selection, the Cathay Room and Terrace famed contemporary French cuisines at a newly showcase a balance between presentation and is an oasis away from the hustle and bustle of renovated space with a fresh an elegant dining gastronomic aptitude. Sun-Wed 10am-10pm, CHOCOLATE Shanghai… 9/F, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 Nanjing room, lounge, open kitchen and private rooms. Thu-Sat 10am- 2am. (6033 5833). L1, N3 Bldg, Road East by Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road (6138 Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm, Sat-Sun: North, Bund Finance Center, 600 Zhongshan 6881) Daily 12:00-22:00 南京东路 20 号，上海和平 11.30am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. 4/F, 3 Zhongshan Jean Paul Hévin is a French “Haute Couture” 2nd Road(E), Huangpu District, Shanghai, China 饭店 9 楼，近中山东一路 Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu) jgrespak@on-the- chocolate-maker, whose label of chocolates is 200010 中山东二路 600 号外滩金融中心北区 N3 栋 bund.com. www.threeonthebund.com. 中山东一 a successful brand of gourmet chocolate. The Dragon Phoenix Restored to its former glory, 一层 , 近枫泾路 200010 路 3 号 4 楼 , 近广东路 (6321 7733) adventure of Jean Paul Hévin begins in the tropics the Dragon Phoenix evokes memories from with the search for the rarest, most refined a distant time. Quintessential Cantonese and cocoa beans. It continues back in France with a Shanghainese cuisine takes center stage with GERMAN search for the best creams and hazelnuts, the refined yet daringly classical presentations of the most scented honeys and other outstanding finest live seafood, barbeque roasted meats and Paulaner Brauhaus Enjoy Bavarian food ingredient. Jean Paul Hévin stores are created seasonal produce. Our resident Chinese Master (and more importantly, beer) in a warm, well- as chocolate cellars, confined spaces in which, Chef’s signature dishes showcase some of China’s populated atmosphere. 1) House19-20, North at constant levels of humidity and temperature, most sought-after authentic dishes including Block Xintiandi, Lane181 Taicang Lu, by Madang customers could be captivated by the subtle hand crafted dim sum, seafood delicacies and Lu (6320 3935) Daily: 11am-2am www.bln.com. cocoa aromas and choose their purchases in a noodle dishes. 8/F, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 cn 2) 2967 Lujiazui Xi Lu, by Binjiang Da Dao (6888 calm and peaceful atmosphere. LG2 city’super, Nanjing Road East by Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road 3935) Sun-Thu: 11am-1am; Fri-Sat: 11am-2am HKRI Taikoo Hui, 789 West Nanjing Lu, by Ruijin (6138 6880) Daily 11:30-22:00 南京东路 20 号，上 3) 3/F, 555 Shibo Da Dao, by Guozhan Lu (2206 Er Lu (400-653-8820, www.citysuper.com.cn) 海和平饭店 8 楼，近中山东一路 0555) Sun-Thurs: 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 11am- 南京西路 789 号兴业太古汇地下二层 city’super 12am [email protected] 1) 太仓路 181 弄新天地超 • 生活店内 Jade on 36 Restaurant Jade on 36 Restaurant offers a contemporary interpretation of classic 北里 19-20 号楼 , 近马当路 2) 陆家嘴西路 2967 号 , ROYCE’ From the great land of Hokkaido, French cuisine. Chef Olivier Pistre uses exceptional 近滨江大道 3) 世博大道 555 号 3 楼 , 近国展路 blessed by nature, came ROYCE’ chocolates in ingredients and classic recipes presented with 1983. Hokkaido is gifted with crystal clear water a contemporary twist. Guests can enjoy the and pure fresh air. This nature environment magnificent view of Puxi skyline and the Bund. GLOBAL CUISINE is much like the famous European Chocolate Lunch sets, dinner sets and a la carte dishes are Mr. & Mrs. Bund Molecular madman Paul Pairet producing countries. It is here in Hokkaido 36/F, Grand Tower, Pudong Shangri- Morton’s of Chicago restaurants All Morton’s available. takes a more laissez-faire approach with this that the finest, strictly selected ingredients are La, 33 Fucheng Lu, by Lujiazui Huan Lu (2828 of Chicago restaurants serve the best available modern French eatery. Expect straightforward combined to make perfect chocolates. Each and 6888). Open daily, 11.30am-2pm (lunch), 6-10pm aged grain-fed beef, as well as fresh fish, Maine food and a great wine list. 6/F Bund 18, every bite will bring your senses to Hokkaido. (dinner). [email protected], lobster, lamb chops and chicken mains. The Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Nanjing Dong Lu (6323 1) ifc Store - LG2 city’super, 8 Shiji Dadao, by www.shangri-la.com/shanghai/pudongshangrila. menus offer generous portions of beef, including 9898) Dinner: Monday to Sunday 5.00-10.30pm, Lujiazui Huan Lu 2) Shanghai Metro City Store - 富城路 33 号，近陆家嘴环路 . a 48-ounce (1,300g) Porterhouse, a 20-ounce late Night: Thus-Sat 10.30pm-1.00am, brunch: B1, 1111 Zhaojiabang Lu, by Hongqiao Lu 3) Jiu (550g) New York Sirloin, and a 12-ounce (340g) Sat-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm www.mmbund.com 中 Guang, B/F, 1618 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Huashan Lu M on the Bund This Bund pioneer serves up Double Cut Filet. Morton’s restaurants are equally 山东一路外滩 18 号 6 楼 , 近南京东路 4) Shanghai Times Square Store - B1 city’super, impeccable service and a menu peppered with renowned for their extensive award-winning wine 99 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Xizang Nan Lu 5) Continental, Aussie and Moroccan inspiration. PHÉNIX eatery & bar Rooted in the philosophy lists. The fully stocked bar also offers top-shelf Shanghai iapm Store - LG1 , 999 Huaihai Zhong Try the pavlova for dessert. 7/F, No.5 Zhongshan of “Life is about the ingredients”, a visit to spirits, domestic and imported beers and creative Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu 6) HKRI Taikoo Hui Store Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu (6350 9988) Mon- PHÉNIX is a charming invitation to reconnect with cocktails, such as their signature ‘MORtinis’. Shop - LG2 city’super, 789 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Yan’an Fri: 11.30am-2.30pm; 6.15-10.30pm; Sat-Sun: the essentials through an intuitive French cuisine 15-16, 4/F, Shanghai IFC Mall, 8 Shiji Dadao, by Zhong Lu (400-653-8820, www.citysuper.com. 11.30am-3pm; 6.15-10.30pm reservations@m- inspired by the richness of seasonal natural Yincheng Zhong Lu (6075 8888) 世纪大道 8 号 4 cn) 1) 国金中心店 – 陆家嘴世纪大道 8 号地下二层 onthebund.com www.m-onthebund.com 中山东楼 15-16 号店 , 近银城中路一路外滩 5 号 7 楼 , 近广东路

74 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

Pelham’s Named after Sir Pelham Warren, the Da Ivo in Venice. Located on the bustling corner former British Consul General who launched of Chengdu Nan Lu and Huaihai Zhong Lu, OPEN DOOR the exclusive Shanghai Club for gentlemen in Ai Fiori is just minutes away from popular 1910, this restaurant at Bund 2 is a signature entertainment hubs Found 158 and Xintiandi. modern destination featuring global cuisine with 2/F, 566 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Chengdu Nan Lu Asian flavor. Surrounded by the stately heritage 淮海中路 566 号 2 楼，近成都南路 (6315 2037) ambience of Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund, the restaurant emanates warmth, intimacy Acqua offers an inspired menu that captures and elegance without being overly formal. 1/F, the spirit of Italian dining. The open kitchen and 2 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, Waldorf Astoria Club oven are a focal point of the restaurant’s dining Lobby Level, by Yan'an Dong Lu (6322 9988). experience. Guests will also enjoy the large indoor 5.30-10pm. 中山东一路2号华尔道夫会所大堂楼层， aquarium and stunning views over the Huangpu 近延安东路 River. With daily lunch and dinner service, Acqua is always a good choice to enjoy a delicious meal. (3867 9192) Lunch: 11.30am -2.30pm; Dinner: HOTEL BUFFETS 6-10.30pm. 2/F, Grand Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, by Baibu Jie 陆家嘴环路 1288 号 Café Reign The all-day restaurant, Café Reign 上海凯宾斯基大酒店 2 楼，近百步街 features a spacious and comprehensive open kitchen, offering an authentic Shanghai breakfast Camelia Offering a range of authentic Italian buffet, business lunch and a semi-buffet dining dishes perfect for all occasions like a business experience. Daily 6am-10.30pm. 1/F, Wanda lunch or a gathering with friends and family, at Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, the Four Seasons Hotel Pudong’s Camelia, you can experience what the Italians call ‘la dolce by Longtan Lu (5368 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路 vita.’ Lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5.30- 10pm. (2036 1300). 1/F, Four Seasons Hotel C MARKET provides an indulgent and Pudong, Shanghai, 210 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui lively culinary experience, allowing to guests to Huan Lu. 世纪大道 210 号上海浦东四季酒店一楼 , 近 Enjoying indoor or terrace dining in an elegant 陆家嘴环路 and gorgeously sun-lit buffet restaurant with show kitchen counters that have a little bit of ISOLA means “little island” in Italian, which everything to satisfy any palate. Ranging from expresses a rich marine culture in Mediterranean bold new cuisines to traditional favourites, sea around Italy and was inspired by original sweet treats to spicy dishes, the possibilities at C Italian food. Room 17, 4/F, 8 Shiji Dadao, by Market are endless. (5263 9628, cdshh.cmarket@ Lujiazui Huan Lu lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm, WANDA REIGN ON THE BUND cordishotels.com, WeChat: CordisHongqiao, afternoon tea: 3-5pm; dinner: 6-10.30pm 世纪大 http://www.cordishotels.com/sc/shanghai- 道 8 号上海国金中心 L4 楼 17 号铺 , 近陆家嘴环路 hongqiao/restaurants-and-bars/c-market/) La Scala Led by Michelin-starred guest chef Breakfast: 6.30-10.30 am daily; Lunch: 11.30 Theodor Falser and Chef de Cuisine Stefano Hairy Crab Buffet Feast at Café Reign am-2 pm (Mon-Fri), 11.30 am - 2.30 pm (Sat & Sanna, La Scala places emphasis on crafting Get ready to celebrate the season’s bounty at Café Reign with a premium crab buffet. Locals love the Sun); Dinner: 6-9.30 pm daily; A La Carte: 6.30- innovative Italian cuisine that prizes authenticity, 10.30 pm. Ground Floor, 333 Shenhong Lu, by crustacean’s famed butter orange roe and sweet meat, but Café Reign takes things to the next level with refined quality and sustainability. La Scala is a a range of elaborate hairy crab dishes. Suhong Lu 申虹路 333 号 G 层，近苏虹路 journey of discovery and innovation – through Five Live: Serving daily breakfast and dinner presenting wholesome ingredients in its Of course, classic steamed crab is available, but it also comes stir-fried with rice cakes, in fried rice, buffets, a la carte menu and extravagant Sunday purest form, thoughtful flavor pairing with with silken tofu or with scrambled eggs. You especially have to try chef signature drunken crab that is Brunches, Five Live All Day Dining welcomes unexpected twists to traditional recipes, and marinated with spices and Chinese wine for 48 hours. artful presentations that touch on the restaurant’s guests and gastronomes into a compelling Wait, because there’s even more. Balance out the richness of your hairy crab gluttony with roast cooking theater. An array of local Shanghainese, culinary philosophy, each recipe brings attention to sustainable and local sourcing, zero waste and mushroom with black truffle onsen eggs. The healthy preparation and light flavor are the ideal balance to regional Chinese and international cuisines are the splendid hairy crab offerings. prepared at five interactive cooking stations, zero frozen and processed ingredients, paying including fresh seafood on ice, a grill and carving homage to food, land and its people. 1/F, The Book now until December 30 via WeChat for special prices: station, specialty noodles and dumplings, soup Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Shimen and Taiwanese hotpot, a Mediterranean kitchen Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近石门一路 RMB278 net per person and a dessert counter. INTERCONTINENTAL RMB528 net per couple SHANGHAI NECC, 1700 Zhuguang Lu, by Ying- VA BENE in shanghai is a modern Italian gang Dong Lu (National Exhibition Convention restaurant with new designed dining environment > 1/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu 中山东二 and extraordinary Italian food thath combines Center, Gate 3) (6700 1888-6028) 国家会展中心洲路538号, 近龙潭路 Open daily, 5.30-9.30pm (5368 8882) 际酒店 , 诸光路 1700 号国家会展中心 3 号门，近盈港 tradition and innovation. 1/F, No 7, Lane 181 东路） Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 11am-midnight 太仓路 181 弄新天地北里 7 号楼一层 , 近黄陂南路 Yi Café A buffet restaurant, Yi Café offers a vibrant selection of international and local favorites for you and your families and friends, JAPANESE presented by our team of passionate chefs. With eleven culinary theatres – featuring Chinese, Western, South-East Asian, Japanese and European cuisine in an interactive marketplace environment – diners will enjoy an unparalleled culinary showcase. 2/F, Grand Tower, Pudong Shangri-La, 33 Fucheng Lu, by Lujiazui Huan Lu (2828 6888), Open daily, 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30- 10pm. [email protected], www. shangri-la.com/shanghai/pudongshangrila. 富城路 33 号，近陆家嘴环路

INDIAN

Bhoomi stores One stop destination where a wide range of Indian & Pakistani food products are served. 266 Yaohong Lu, by Hongsong Dong Lu, Minhang district, (2428 3400) Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm, Sunday 2-7pm 闵行区姚虹路 266 Shinpaku Located at Three on the Bund, 号 , 近红松东路 Shinpaku is a brand-new contemporary Japanese restaurant, where groups of like-minded people can enjoy each other’s company with authentic ITALIAN Japanese cuisine and over 100 different types of sake at a fashionable space with main dining area and private dining rooms. An ideal place for after-work drinks, casual dining and catching up with friends. Monday to Thursday 5:30pm - 11pm, Friday to Sunday 11am – 3pm & 5:30pm – 11pm, 2F,Three on the Bund, No. 3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road shinpakureservation@on-thebund.com. www.threeonthebund.com 中山东一路 3 号 2 楼，近广东路 (6323 0093)

MEDITERRANEAN

Calypso Restaurant & Lounge The Calypso. Located in the hotel’s piazza, the eye-catching two-storey bamboo-clad glass-roof building brings Mediterranean cuisine to the doorstep of guests and residents. Roof terrace also available. This is topped off with DJ music, creating the epitome of a relaxed ambience. Restaurant Open Hour: 11am to 11pm; Terrace Lounge Open Ai Fiori offers classic Venetian flavors with a Hour: Non-Winter Season (Mar – Nov) 2.30pm modern twist for relaxed dining concept ideal for to 1am (Mon - Thurs); 2.30pm to 1.30am (Fri & casual dates, group dining or private events. It Sat); 12pm to 1am (Sun). Winter Season (Dec has direct ties to the world-renowned Ristorante - Feb) 2.30pm to 11pm (Mon - Thurs), 2.30pm to 12midnight (Fri & Sat), 12pm to 11pm(Sun).

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 75 BFC OPEN DOOR

LISTINGS

(86 21) 2203 8889. Jing An Kerry Center Piazza, Pho Store Owned by an Australian Vietnamese, home-made snack. A free foosball table, classic 1218 Middle Yan’an Road, Jing An Kerry Centre the Pho Store offers Vietnamese street-flavor SPANISH rock and a big screen showing ESPN and Star on West Nanjing Road, Shanghai. 延安中路 1218 phos in a cozy and trendy environment. 118 Sports channels. 7 Donghu Lu, by Huaihai Zhong 号南京西路静安嘉里中心南区广场 Xikang Lu, by Nanyang Lu daily 11am-10pm Albero Enjoy Albero’s innovative Spanish tapas Lu (6415 7019) Daily 1pm-2am jennysbar@ (6215 5534) 西康路 118 号 , 近南阳路 menu, ideal for sharing with friends in a relaxed hotmail.com www.jenny-shanghai.com 东湖路 7 Thought For Food is the flagship restaurant atmosphere. The restaurant is decorated in an 号 , 近淮海中路 142 号 , 近南京西路 inside The Living Room by Octave, open daily Pho Real Some of Shanghai’s finest pho and Andalusian style with sedimentary rock from the for breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch Bánh mì, with high-quality ingredients and a Huangpu River. (3867 9196) Lunch: 12pm-3pm; Logan’s Punch Cashing in on its slogan of being serving tasting menus, sharing plates and quick young, hip environment. 1) 166 Fumin Lu, by Dinner: 6-10pm. 2/F, Grand Kempinski Hotel, 'China's first punch bar,' Logan's Punch has meals that all feature responsibly and honestly Changle Lu (5403 8110) Mon-Fri: 11am -2 pm, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, by Baibu Jie 陆家嘴环路 enjoyed widespread popularity since opening sourced ingredients.Vegetables are sourced 5.30pm -10pm; weekends: 11am -10pm 2) 1465 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 2 楼，近百步街 in 2014. Previously housed in Zhang Court, this from certified organic farms and their own roof- Fuxing Zhong Lu by Huaihai Zhong Lu (6437 iteration moved to the up and coming Shaanxi top garden - fully traceable to ensure safety 2222) Mon-Fri: 11am -2.30pm, 5.30pm -10pm; COLCA COLCA is the latest restaurant of Bei Lu vicinity in 2019. Expect a range of well- and quality to the table. The poultry, pork and weekends: 11am -10pm 3) 1-L206, The Place, celebrity chef & serial restaurateur Eduardo made craft cocktails, sipped alongside a hip seafood are carefully selected from free range 100 Zunyi Lu, by Tianshan Lu 11am-10pm (5291 Vargas. This time he cooks food of his heritage: crowd of young expats and locals. Mon-Thu sources that are certified and traceable.Daily 7am- 0907) www.phorealgroup.cn 4) Hongkong Plaza. Peruvian. COLCA is a restaurant & bar specializing 6pm–2am, Fri–Sat 7pm–late. 479 Wuding Road, 10pm;Sunday brunch 11am-3pm. Former French S2-11 Hongkong Plaza, 283 Huaihai Zhong Lu, in seafood and grilled meats. It also features by Shaanxi Bei Lu, 武定路 479 号，近陕西北路 Concession>357 Jianguo Xi Lu, by Taiyuan Lu by Huangpi Nan Lu (6313 8927) 11am-10pm 5) the first Pisco Bar in China with a wide range (3338 4660) [email protected]. S07, 4/F, Takashimaya Department Store,1438 of pisco cocktails. Tucked into a new complex www.livingoctave.com 建国西路 357 号 , 近太原路 Hongqiao Lu, by Manao Lu (6278 3277) 10am- at Hengshan Lu, the restaurant boasts high- 21.30pm 1) 富民路 166 号 , 近长乐路 2) 复兴中路 ceilinged interiors and a beautiful outdoor 1465 号 , 近淮海中路 3) 南京西路 1515 号嘉里中心 terrace. Dinner: Tue-Sun 5.30pm-1am; Weekend MODERN SB1-12, 近常德路 4) 虹桥南丰城南区 1 期 -L206, 遵 Brunch: 11am-4pm, close on Monday. Rm2201, 义路 100 号 , 近天山路 5) 淮海中路 283 号，香港广 2/F, 199 Hengshan Lu, by Yongjia Lu (5401 5366) 场南座 2-11 室 , 近黄陂南路 6) 虹桥路 1438 号高岛衡山路 199 号 2 楼 2201, 近永嘉路屋商场 4 楼 07 室近玛瑙路 Pintxos Numbers of meats and seafood are URBAN Café The award-winning all-day imported from Spain to ensure the most restaurant URBAN Café showcases flavors that authentic Spanish cuisine for every customer. In are synonymous with Southeast Asia. The culinary addition to the excellent quality of raw materials, team maintains the fresh burst that is the essence the process is made simple and fast in the stylish of Southeast Asian dining culture by using minimalist restaurant. premium seafood, meat, and seasonal greens. 1/ Pudong Kerry: 1378 Huamu Lu, Room B104, F, The Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Kerry Centre, by Fangdian Lu (5858 0617) 2) Shimen Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近 Jingan Kerry: 1515 Nanjing Xi Lu, B1, Room 10, 石门一路 Jing'an Kerry Centre, by Changde Lu (6173 7983) Judy’s Established in 1993, Judy's is the longest 1) 花木路 1378 号嘉里中心 B104, 近芳甸路 2) 南京 running party venue in Shanghai! Have a few STEAKHOUSES 西路 1515 号静安嘉里中心 B1 楼 10 室 , 近常德路 drinks, settle on the vibrant party atmosphere and enjoy the house band. Enjoy dancing the CHAR Dining This modern steakhouse has Tapas & Lounge The food at Azul is created by Eduardo Vargas, mixed with Spanish and night away seven days a week with your favorite The Spot Bar & Restaurant Since opened in position itself as a destination for premium Mediterranean cuisine. During the last 14 party rocking music. Food is available all day until Sep 2006, the Spot Bar and Restaurant has been quality Australian beef and sea food products. years, the cuisine has been diversified with wee hours. 331 Tongren Lu, by Beijing Xi Lu (6289 home of many expats away from home. The Its spectacular bund views, urban interior design, flavors, herbs, and great quality of ingredients, 3715) Daily 11am-late www.judysco.com.cn 铜仁 menu introduces delicious food items as well as and International recognized Chef Willmer making Azul until today one of the best Latin- 路 331 号，近北京西路 the Spot’s signature dishes at reasonable prices. Colmenares has made this location a “must Mediterranean restaurants in Shanghai. 8/F, With a warm ambiance, it’s an exciting place try” dining destination in the city. The menu POP Bar influenced by the playfulness, art deco Ferguson Lane, 378 Wukang Lu, by Tai’an Lu where you get to meet friendly people.1) 2/F, 329 presents classics with a twist; Boasting one the highlights and tropical vibe of cosmopolitan (5405 2252) 武康路 378 号武康庭 8 楼 , 近泰安路 Tongren Lu, by Nanjing Lu (www.thespot.com.cn) largest steak selection available in Shanghai. Miami, is a fun and elegant rooftop lounge to 2) 152 Tongren Lu, by Nanjing Xi Lu 1) 铜仁路 329 Starting from their grass fed products from enjoy afternoons and nights in good company 号 2 楼，近南阳路 2) 铜仁路 152 号 , 近南京西路 Tasmania, to their grain fed 250days tomahawk and funky music. Opening Sunday to Friday from or their selection of Wagyu products. Including SPECIALITY FOOD SHOPS 2:00pm till late; Saturday from 1:00pm till late. 7/ URBAN Lounge presents a curated collection the award winning Blackmore full blood Wagyu F, 3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu of global gins and premier tonics from around 9+ recognized as one of the best in the market. Green & Safe With an organic farm in Kunshan, (6321 0909) www.threeonthebund.com 中山东一 the world. The signature herb trolley is also a 29-31F Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the bund, this organic store provides daily delivered 路 3 号 7 楼 , 近广东路 wellness alternative, featuring 29 specialty tea 585 Zhongshan Dong Er lu, by Dongmen Lu vegetables and a variety of local and imported blends and over 8 seasonal organic fresh herbs. (3302 9995), 5:30pm until late, kitchen close at organic goods, such as organic extra virgin olive The Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by 10:30pm. Bar, 17:00pm-late. www.char-thebund. oil, white and red balsamic vinegar, organic Shimen Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近 com 中山东二路 585 号 29-31 楼，近东门路 pasta, muesli and more. 1) 6 Dongping Lu, by 石门一路 Hengshan Lu 5465 1288, 1/F: 8am-10pm; 2/ JW’s California Grill Located on the 40th F: 6.30pm-12am 2) 2) 4/F, 1438 Hongqiao Lu, floor above Shanghai's stunning skyline, the by Hongbaoshi Lu 10am–9.30pm 3) 4/F, 1601 PIZZA relaxed and classy setting offers refined lifestyle Nanjing Xi Lu (6258 8777) 1) 东平路 6 号 , 近衡山 dining with seasonal, market fresh cuisine using 路 2) 虹桥路 1438 号 4 楼 , 近红宝石路 3) 南京西路 PizzaExpress 1) 380 Huangpi Nan Lu, by Xingye premium products cooked to perfection. Discover 1601号4楼B区 Lu (5383 3999) Sun-Thurs: 11.30am-11pm; sophisticated chef-crafted cuisine in the main Swiss Butchery brings you a world-class meat Fri & Sat: 11am-11pm [email protected] area or enjoy exclusivity in the private room experience, offering a wide variety of high- www.pizzamarzano.cn 2) Suite 107, Shanghai among friends or business partners. 40/F, JW quality meat products. Expect freshly imported Center,1376 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Xikang Lu (6289 Marriott Hotel Shanghai Tomorrow Square, 399 meat and delicacies like Italian and Spanish hams, 8733) Daily 11am-11pm info@pizzamarzano. Nanjing Xi Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu (5359 4969, European cheeses and fine seafood. All products cn 3) No.1, Unit 111, 570 Yong Jia Lu, by Yue www.jwmarriottshanghai.com) 上海明天广场 JW are handled according to the most stringent food Yang Lu (6467 8898) Sun-Thurs: 12-11pm; 万豪酒店 40 楼，南京西路 399 号，近黄陂北路 safety and hygiene standards and are available Fri&Sat: 11am-11pm [email protected] 4) Morton's Steak and Seafood Grille In addition online or in any of their four physical locations. 1) 507B/C, 5/F Grand Gateway, 1 Hongqiao Lu, by to the finest grain-fed wet aged beef for which 3187 Hongmei Lu, by Hongsong Lu, 5223 7301 Huashan Lu (6447 8880) Daily 10am-10pm info@ Senator Saloon Senator Saloon has the largest the classic steakhouse is known around the 2) 86 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu, by Changle Lu, 5450 pizzamarzano.cn 5) Unit 403, 4/F, K11 Art Mall, selection of Bourbon and Rye in Shanghai. world, this new concept for Morton’s focuses on 0068 3) 262 Baihua Lu, by Biyun Lu, 5090 6190 300 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 1) 黄 Cocktails are carefully crafted. The atmosphere is premium oysters including a rotating selection 4) 219 Jinguang Lu, by Baole Lu, 2613 6986 1) 陂南路 380 号 , 近兴业路 2) 南京西路 1376 号上海商 intimate with velvet flock wallpapers and artisan of fresh oysters from the United States, France, 虹梅路 3187 号，近红松路 2) 乌鲁木齐中路 86 号，城西峰 107 号 , 近西康路 3) 永嘉路 570 号 111 单元 1 tin ceilings. Popular bar snacks include Mac and Australia and New Zealand. An extensive 近长乐路 3) 白桦路 262 号，近碧云路 4) 金光路号楼 , 近岳阳路 4) 虹桥路 1 号港汇广场 5 层 507B/C, Cheese, Pork Belly Sliders, and Chicken Pot Pie. selection of generous seafood mains on the menu 219，近保乐路 (WeChat: SwissButchery or www. 近华山路 5）淮海中路300 号 K11 购物艺术中心 403 98 Wuyuan Lu, by Wulumuqi Zhong Lu (5423 showcase pan-Asian influences. As always, there swissbutchery.com) 号铺 , 近黄陂南路 are also many side dishes and indulgent desserts, 1330) 五原路 98 号，近乌鲁木齐中路 plus a sophisticated menu of fine wines, spirits SOUTHEAST ASIAN and cocktails. L4-403, iapm Mall, 999 Huaihai SUPERMARKET Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu (6067 7888) 淮海中 CLUBS Coconut Paradise This cozy, Modern-Thai style 路 999 号 , 近陕西南路 city’super is a large international supermarket house offers casual dining with lots of attention Bar Rouge Trendsetting nightlife destination Bar The 1515 WEST Chophouse & Bar Meat lovers specializing in imported products. There is also to southeast Asian detail with soft light,Dark teak Rouge provides a unique nightclub experience in will be delighted by the restaurant’s generous a selection of imported and domestic fresh wood and a faint hint of incense.The spicy beef Shanghai. Located at the top of Bund 18, it is the portioning philosophy. The house butcher produce, including fruit, vegetables, meat, lettuce wraps sprinkled with fresh mint make a city's go-to venue, offering a unique combination presents signature prime cuts which are cut and cheese, fish and dairy, alongside a selection of perfect starter for the shrimp Pad Thai, also have of high style and an unbeatable view of weighed on an old-fashioned scale on the table sundries, wine, liquor and canned goods. 1) ifc the best curry cuisine .1) 38 Fumin Lu, by Yan’an Shanghai's skyline from its spacious terrace. Open and sent straight to the grill. Restaurant Open Store - LG2, 8 Shiji Dadao 2) Shanghai Times Zhong Lu (6248 1998) 2) 2/F, 378 Wukang Lu, by daily 6pm until late. 7/F, Bund 18, Zhongshan Hour: Lunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm; Dinner Square Store - B1, 99 Huaihai Zhong Lu 3) Hunan Lu (5424 5886) Daily 11.30am-2pm; 5.30- Dong Yi Lu, by Nanjing Dong Lu (6339 1199, from 6pm to 10.30pm. (86 21) 2203 8889. 4/F, Shanghai iapm Store - LG1 , 999 Huaihai Zhong 9.30pm [email protected] www. www.barrougeclubs.com). 中山东一路 18 号，近南 Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai, 1218 Yan’an Lu 4) HKRI Taikoo Hui store - LG2, 789 Nanjing Xi lostheaven.com.cn/main.html1) 富民路 38 号 , 近延京东路 Zhong, by Tongren Lu. 静安香格里拉大酒店四楼， Lu 5) Shanghai Raffles City Changning Store - (E) 安中路 2) 武康路 378 号 2 楼 , 近湖南路延安中路 1218 号，近铜仁路 . B110, 1139 Changning Lu 1) 国金中心店 – 陆家嘴 Club Room This gentleman’s club-inspired 世纪大道 8 号地下二层 2) 大上海时代广场店 – 淮海 Greyhound Café focuses on innovation of a lounge area at The Shanghai EDITION exudes a The Grill With a central grill, rotisserie and a 中路 99 号地下一层 3) 环贸广场店 - 淮海中路 999 号 trendy dining experience and fine culinary skills. sense of warmth and exclusivity. The sophisti- large built-in marble displaying the freshest 地下一层 4) 兴业太古汇店 - 南京西路 789 号地下二 Having turned into a modern Thailand restaurant, cated venue features two indulgent lounge areas, seafood, it is a contemporary and colorful venue 层 5）长宁来福士店 – 长宁路 1139 号东区地下一层 it provides authentic yet traditional Thai cuisine in a nine-seater bar, as well as a screening room for guests in search of the freshest seafood and （400-653-8820, www.citysuper.com.cn） a fine-dining environment. 1) Room5, 1/F, Jing’an and a karaoke room. 5F, Heritage Building, The succulent prime grade meats grilled right in Kerry Center, 1515 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Changde Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by front of them in the open kitchen. 56/F Jin Mao Lu 11am-10pm 2) Room 503 5/F, 999 Huaihai Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9571). 5pm-2am. 南京东 Tower, Grand Hyatt Shanghai, 88 Shiji Dadao, by Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu 11am-10pm 3) 路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅楼 5 楼，近江西中路 Dongtai Lu (5047 1234) Lunch: Daily 11.30am- 02A,1/F,22,23 Xintiandi Beili, Lane 181 Taicang 2.30pm; Dinner: Daily 5.30-10.30pm 世纪大道 88 NIGHTLIFE Electric Circus This club and VIP lounge for Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 11am-11pm (Sun-Thu) 号金茂君悦大酒店 56 楼 , 近东泰路 Shanghai takes a cue from the Studio 54 11am-2am (Fri-Sat) 1) 南京西路 1515 号静安嘉里中 BARS tradition with its dramatic lighting, other- 心南区 1 层 05 号 , 近常德路 2) 淮海中路 999 号环贸 worldly interior and signature EDITION cocktail iapm 商场 L5-503 室 , 近陕西南路 3) 太仓路 181 弄 Jenny’s Blue Bar Second home to hordes of mixology program. Electric Circus will play host 上海新天地北里 22,23 号 1 层 02A 单元 , 近黄陂南路 blokes who regularly stop by for a drink or a to some of the world’s top DJs and performers,

76 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

and is destined to become a must-visit venue HU Bar & Lounge is Shanghai’s newest nightlife by EDITION’s mixologists. 29/F, Main Building, Lu, by Qinjiang Lu 2) Jiahui Health (Yangpu), in the Shanghai nightlife scene. 7F, Heritage destination and showcases the Best of Shanghai’s The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by 1F/2F, Suite 3, 99 Jiangwancheng Lu, by Yingao Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Past and Present. HU looks back at the past while Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9537). 2pm-2am. 南京东 Dong Lu 3) Jiahui Health (Jing’an), Suite101, Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9551). Fri- embracing the progress and fast-paced evolution 路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店主楼 29 楼，近江西中路 88 Changshu Lu, by Changle Lu (Mon - Sat, 9am Sat 10pm-5am. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅 Shanghai is known for all while giving its guests - 6pm, 400 868 3000) 1) 桂平路 689 号，近钦江路楼 7 楼，近江西中路 towering, iconic and the most amazing views Roof Garden Composed of a patchwork of 2) 江湾城路 99 号 3 号楼 1-2 层 , 近殷高东路 3) 常熟 of the city’s skyline from all around. 64F / 65F, brick and lawn terraces of different heights, the 路 88 号，近长乐路 (400 868 3000) M1NT Winner of 2009 Readers’ Choice Award 789 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Xizang Nan Lu 南京 roof garden is an urban oasis that mixes Chinese for “Club of the Year”.Join the posh and the 东路 789 号 64-65 层 , 近西藏南路 http://www. greenery with luscious, tropical horticulture. poser alike in this quasi exclusive nightclub, leroyalmeridienshanghai.com/hubar The richly planted rooftop features an under- HEALTH SERVICES where a chic dining room offering up superb the-stars movie theater, a games area for lawn Asian inspired fusion and grilled fare are a;sp Jade on 36 Bar The ideal venue for bowls and croquet, daybed seating, as well as the available. 24/F, 318 Fuzhou Lu, by Hankou Lu sunset cocktails and late night drinks, take in service of a full bar along with food and snacks. (6391 2811) Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; the spectacular views of the iconic Bund and the 8F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, Cosmetic Plastic & Laser Center Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11pm; Club: Wed-Sat dazzling Shanghai skyline while sipping martinis 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9:30pm-late [email protected] www. and fine wines paired with a selection of gourmet 9528). 5pm-2am. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店 m1ntglobal.com 福州路 318 号高腾大厦 24 层 , 近汉 bites. Live DJs and musicians will put you in the 辅楼 8 楼，近江西中路口路 mood for indulgence. Martinis take centre stage in the new cocktail menu set to launch in March RuiKu Champagne Lounge Located on the BIOSCOR RuiKu Champagne Lounge Located on the at Jade on 36. Expect a selection of over 25 rooftop with a big terrace, RuiKu Champagne Shanghai Clinic rooftop with a big terrace, RuiKu Champagne curated martinis ranging from light and refreshing Lounge boasts a stunning view where patrons Lounge boasts a stunning view where patrons to coffee-infused recipes and sweet treats, get to sip enticing cocktails while swinging with get to sip enticing cocktails while swinging with reimagined with unexpected flavours, alongside a world-famous DJs Daily 10.30pm-Midnight. 21/ Cosmetic Surgery world-famous DJs Daily 10.30pm-Midnight. 21/ selection of classic cocktails and indulgent nibbles. F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhong Shan F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhong Shan Happy Hour: Buy-one-get-one-free signature Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 8882) 中山东二 Botox & Dermafiller Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 8882) 中山东二 cocktails from 5-7pm daily; Free-flow champagne: 路 538 号 , 近龙潭路路 538 号 , 近龙潭路 Laser Skin Center Enjoy unlimited champagne every evening from The Jazz Bar The only address in China for 8-10.30pm at RMB 488++ per person. 36/F Grand legendary jazz, the Jazz Bar features the oldest Cosmetic Dentistry Tower, Pudong Shangri-La, 33 Fucheng Lu, by jazz band that has been playing in the Fairmont SPORTS BARS Lujiazui Xi Lu 富城路 33 号浦东香格里拉大酒店紫金 Peace Hotel since 1980. With its relaxed 楼，近陆家嘴西路（6882 3636） atmosphere and extensive drink menu, it is the Bioscor Shanghai Clinic With over 10 years' CAGES: Combined with American dining, perfect place to unwind with Victor Sassoon’s experience, Bioscor's team of international docors baseball batting cages and over ten other sports Jasmine Lounge The Jasmine Lounge has always classic cocktails and experience authentic live and skin specialists are committed to provide you in nearly 4,000square meters' Jing'an location, been ‘the place’ to socialize while experiencing the music. Lobby, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 Nanjing with the best level of service for all your cosmetic CAGES is the spot for you. Whether you are finest tea experience and elegant evening cocktails. Road East by Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road (6138 needs such as Botox, Filler, Pixel, Cutera, Ulthera, dining with your team or competing for bar game A specialty of the Jasmine Lounge is the traditional 6886) The Old Jazz Band Daily 18:00-21:45, Microdermabrasion, Chemical Peel, Vein Therapy supremacy with your friends, CAGES has you English style afternoon tea, complete with an 21:45-00:30 with the best female vocalist 南京东 and Cosmetic Sugerys. No.5, Lane89 Xingguo covered. Be sure to contact us about our leagues, extensive selection of teas from different origins, 路 20 号，上海和平饭店大堂，近中山东一路 Lu, by Hunan Lu (6431 8899) 9am-6pm info@ including dodgeball, 4v4 soccer, combat archery compositions and styles. Saturday Tea Dance bioscor.com.cn www.bioscor.com.cn. 兴国路89 and more. 9am - 2am daily. Jingan Sports Center, experience harks you back to Shanghai’s glamorous The ZUK Bar Filled with vigor and style, this 弄5号,近湖南路 3/F, 428 Jiangning Lu, by Wuding Lu (3112 2950) golden age. Lobby, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 trendy downtown hub is a great social space, 江宁路 428 号 3 楼 , 近武定路 Nanjing Road East by Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road guests can relax and indulge in a range of Dream Medical Group Established in 2005, this (6138 6886) Afternoon Tea Daily 14:00-18:00 南 artisanal cocktails created by our mixologists. The Shanghai outpost of this Korean cosmetics clinic 京东路 20 号，上海和平饭店大堂，近中山东一路 Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Shimen offers a range of services from skincare to dental Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近石门一路 care treatments. Operating with international HOTEL BARS JW Lounge Bar Popular with high-flyers, this standards, the brand's medical professionals lofty lounge boasts panoramic city views and The 1515 WEST Bar The Bar provides are constantly searching for new technology to BRU: Open from afternoon until late, BRU is a offers an extensive champagne list, either by the upgrade their offerings. Enjoy laser hair removal gastro pub serving casual comfort food, including Champagnes, vermouths, sherries, white wines glass or the by bottle. Live music six days a week. once with coupon, underarms only. 3/F, Zhongyi rotisserie prime meats, fresh seafood and tapas and a cellar featuring a selection of New World 40/F, JW Marriott, 399 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Huangpi Building, 580 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Chengdu Bei plates accompanied by a wide selection of beers, wines and Reds ensure that Wine Sommelier, Bei Lu (5359 4969-6864) Daily 5pm-2am www. Lu www.dreammedical.com.cn TEL/Wechat: wines and cocktails. As the name suggests, beer Jasper Sun always has the best recommendations jwmarriottshanghai.com 南京西路 399 号 JW 万豪 13651969238 南京西路580号仲益大厦A座3楼, 近 is the highlight with bottled craft beers from at hand. Open Hour: 5pm to 1 am (Sun-Thurs)\ 酒店 40 楼 , 近黄陂北路成都北路 (136 5196 9238) around the world and eight premium beers 5pm to 1.30am (Fri & Sat). (86 21) 2203 8889. 4/F, Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai, 1218 on tap. Communal benches and kegs to share Lobby Bar One of the nine bars of The are ideal for groups of colleagues and friends. Yan’an Zhong, by Tongren Lu. 静安香格里拉大酒店 Shanghai EDITION, the design of the Lobby 四楼，延安中路 1218 号，近铜仁路 . Each evening, a live band enhances the stylish Bar features bespoke plaster relief artwork ambiance with contemporary and classic tunes. inspired by carvings typically observed among INTERCONTINENTAL SHANGHAI NECC, 1700 Shanghai’s signature Shikumen housing. 1/F, Zhuguang Lu, by Yinggang Dong Lu (National Main Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Exhibition Convention Center, Gate 3) (6700 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 MIND & BODY 1888-6031) 国家会展中心洲际酒店 , 诸光路 1700 号 9851). 6pm-2am. 南京东路199号上海艾迪逊酒店国家会展中心 3 号门，近盈港东路主楼1楼，近江西中路 BEAUTY Lobby Lounge With large floor-to-ceiling Camelia Bar Perfect for a casual drink after work Helen Nail Spa A long-time favorite among windows and a crystal chandelier, the Lobby with friends and colleagues, the Four Seasons locals and expats alike, Helen Nail Spa is much Lounge offers a distinct atmosphere that is Hotel Pudong’s Camelia Bar offers a wide range more than a nail spa; they have a variety of perfect for a rendezvous with a wide selection of of whiskeys, wines, champagnes and signature pampering treatments and excellent waxing top and rare whiskeys and fine wines. Daily 8am- cocktails. The knowledgeable mixologists and bar services. 1) 120 Nanchang Lu, by Yandang Lu midnight, 1/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 staff are always on hand to offer recommenda- (5383 8957) Daily 10am-10pm 2) No 6, Lane 819 Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 tions perfect for your palate. 5pm-late. (2036 Julu Lu, by Fumin Lu (5403 7802) 3) 70 Shimen yi 1300). 1/F, Four Seasons Hotel Pudong, Shanghai, 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路 Lu, by Dagu Lu (6333 7535). 1) 南昌路 120 号 , 近 210 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu. 世纪大道 Long Bar Offering a good selection of cocktails, 雁荡路 2) 巨鹿路 819 弄 6 号 , 近富民路 3) 石门一路 210 号上海浦东四季酒店一楼 , 近陆家嘴环路 deluxe oysters and premium cigars, legendary 70 号，近大沽路 Jiahui Health's an international healthcare CHAR bar Classy cocktails and sophisticated Long Bar remains to be a part of the Waldorf provider operating in several downtown setting, best known for its exquisite 270-degree Astoria Shanghai on the Bund after architectural locations. Our integrated network includes an views over The Bund and Pudong skyline. 30/ restoration. Lobby, 2 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by DENTISTRY international hospital with 24/7 emergency F, Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the Bund, 585 Guangdong Lu (6322 9988) Mon-Sat 4pm-1am; services and a Rabies Prevention Clinic, two Zhongshan Dong Er Lu, by Dongmen Lu (3302 Sun 2pm-1am 中山东一路 2 号外滩华尔道夫酒店大 medical clinics, a wellness center, and a team 9995) Daily 4:30pm-late, www.char-thebund. 堂 , 近广东路 of internationally trained physicians. Our com 中山东二路 585 号英迪格酒店 30 楼 , 近东门路 services include: emergency care, OB/GYN, family Main Bar Ye Lai Xiang Located in a historic medicine, surgery, pediatrics, dermatology, French club, the bar brings back the golden age Cloud 9 Located on Level 87 of Jin Mao Tower, dentistry, rehabilitation, clinical psychology, and in an Art Deco style. Fancy a taste of Whiskey this sky lounge has magnificent views of the CT/MRI imaging diagnostics, among others. and Brandy of your own? Pick from the full list entire city, where guests can enjoy a wide 1) Mon-Sun, 24 h, Jiahui International and wait for an exclusive glass of cocktail to be collection of creative cocktails, champagnes and Hospital, 689 Guiping Lu, by Qinjiang Lu served. Okura Garden Hotel Shanghai, 58 Mao Asian Tapas. The floor-to-ceiling glassed double- 2) Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm, Jiahui Health (Yangpu), Ming Nan Lu, by Changle Lu 6415 1111-5217 height section also holds a hide-away mezzanine （） 1F/2F, Suite 3, 99 Jiangwancheng Lu, by Yingao bar. 87/F Grand Hyatt, Jin Mao Tower, 88 Shiji 花园饭店 , 茂名南路 58 号 , 近长乐路 Dong Lu 3) Mon-Sat, 9am - 6pm, Jiahui Health Dadao, by Dongtai Lu (5049 1234) Mon-Fri 5pm- pentalounge Every Sunday between 11 am (Jing’an), Suite101, 88 Changshu Lu, by Changle 1am; Sat-Sun 2pm-1am 世纪大道 88 号金茂大厦 87 to 4 pm, diners at pentalounge at pentahotel Lu (400 868 3000) 1) 桂平路 689 号，近钦江路 2) 楼 , 近东泰路 shanghai can enjoy a spiced-up lazy brunch 江湾城路 99 号 3 号楼 1-2 层 , 近殷高东路 3) 常熟路 Connection 12 Adjacent to the hotel’s with a new menu and free-flow make-your-own 88 号，近长乐路 (400 868 3000) www.jiahui.com/en Bloody Mary station. RMB148 per person (or swimming pool, the stunning rooftop bar opens Global HealthCare Medical & Dental Centre. RMB128 for those arriving after 2pm). Level 1, up to the evening sky and offers breathtaking Established in Shanghai in 2005, GHC is premier 1525 Dingxi Lu, by Yuyuan Lu (6252 1111 ext. panoramic views of the city. Guests can one-stop medical center offering a full range of 8100) 定西路 1525 号酒店 1 楼，近愚园路 soak up the relaxed setting while choosing Jiahui Health’s experienced dentists provide comprehensive medical services including general from a selection of wines, cocktails and light dental health services for adults and children, Punch Room Surrounded by warm, wooden practice/family medicine and specialized services snacks. Tue- Sat: 5pm-1am Level 12, 333 including dental check-ups, fillings, prevention vertical slats, the 35-seat Punch Room provides such as pediatrics, gynecology, ophthalmology, Shenhong Lu, by Suhong Lu (5263 9999) 申虹路 of tooth decay, painless dental pulp treatment, an intimate and cozy bar lounge atmosphere dermatology, orthopedics, cardiology, urology, 333 号 12 层，虹桥康得思酒店，近苏虹路 and treatment and protection against periodontal where guests can enjoy EDITION’s renowned general surgery and much more. disease. The Dentistry Department also carries sophisticated cocktail program. 28/F, Main Havana Bar Experience Shanghai through the out multi-disciplinary collaboration in the GHC is OPEN EVERY DAY including weekends & Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing lights and energy of the hotel’s Havana Bar, hospital, such as working with dermatologists Public Holidays.www.ghcchina.com Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9540). 2pm- located on the 30th floor. Take in views of the to offer invisalign orthodontics and solutions 2am. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店主楼 28 楼， city while indulging in Royal Mojitos, fine wines to skin problems for beauty seekers; working Puxi Centre: ECO City, Suite 303, 1788 Nanjing 近江西中路 and the full bar menu within a relaxed setting. with E.N.T. specialists to help adolescents with Xi Lu, by Wulumuqi Bei Lu (5298 6339) 南京西路 (3867 8888) Hours: 4pm-1am. 2/F, Grand 1788 号 1788 国际中心 303 室，近乌鲁木齐北路 ROOF Served with panoramic views of Pudong, problems such as mouth breathing, adenoidal Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, by Baibu this open-air lounge area at the rooftop of The hypertrophy and allergic rhinitis; working with Jie 陆家嘴环路 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 2 楼，近 Pudong Centre: Shanghai World Financial Center, Shanghai EDITION offers guests a comfortable MSK to provide sports lovers a comprehensive 百步街 Shop 212, 100 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu and intimate setting where they can enjoy a range of preventive strategies on sports injury. (6877 5093) 世纪大道 100 号上海环球金融中心商场 range of classic and innovative libations made 1) Jiahui International Hospital, 689 Guiping 212 室，近陆家嘴环路

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Shanghai East International Medical Center 9am-1pm 1) 南京西路 1376 号上海商城西峰办公楼 by Changde Lu (6266 0018) 8)Dragonfly @ LuOne Yoga Centre will have the right class for you. 1) A joint venture general hospital providing 601 室 , 近西康路 2) 黄浦区蒙自路 757 号歌斐中心 3 B1-11/12, 268 Xujiahui Road, Huangpu District, 2/F, Bldg2, 299Fuxing Xi Lu, by Huashan Lu (6433 a comprehensive range of world-class ser- 层 304-307 室 3) 浦东东育路 255 号 S7 号 1-3 层， Shanghai (6266 2378) Madang Road Station, Metro 4330) Daily 6.45am - 8.45pm [email protected]. vices including family medicine, vaccinations, 近企荣路 4) 浦东祥科路 268 号佑越国际 1 层 5) 浦东 Line 13 (exit 6). Daily 10:00-24:00 relax@dragonfly. cn www.yplus.com.cn 2) 3/F, 308 Anfu Lu, by pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, chiropractic 花木路 1717 号御翠园内，近芳甸路 net.cn http://www.dragonfly.net.cn/ 1) 南昌路 559 Wukang Lu (6437 2121) [email protected] 3) 2/ care, traditional Chinese medicine, psychological 号 2 楼 , 近陕西南路 2) 新乐路 206 号 , 近富民路 3) 花 F, 202 Hubin Lu, by Shunchang Lu (6340 6161) counseling, specialty care, surgical services, as 木路 1378 号 L119，近芳甸路 4) 胶州路 193 号 , 近新 Daily 7.30am-8.45pm [email protected] 1) 复兴 well as on-site 24-hour emergency service. also 闸路 5) 世纪大道 8 号国金中心 LG2-47, 近陆家嘴环路西路 299 号 2 号楼 2 楼 , 近华山路 2) 安福路 308 号 conducts CPR and first aid courses bimonthly 6) 碧云路 616 号 , 近云山路 7) 延安中路 1218 号静安嘉 3 楼 , 近武康路 3) 湖滨路 202 号 2 楼 , 近顺昌路 in English and Chinese. 150 Jimo Lu (24 hour: 里中心商场南区地下一楼 SB1-05B (25 号商铺 ), 近常 5879-9999 or 150-0019-0899 ; [email protected]. 德路 8）悠庭 @ LuOne 上海黄浦区徐家汇路 268 号 Karma Life Yoga This large newly renovated cn; www.seimc.com.cn) 即墨路 150 号 LuOne 凯德晶萃广场 B1 层 11/12 号 high-end studio in Pudong offers a diverse range of styles and classes, including Ashtanga, Dragonfly Suzhou @ Harmony City This chain Shanghai Renai Hospital is the first private Anusara, Hot yoga, soft Yin and Basics. The of contemporary urban retreats offers relaxing hospital in Shanghai. It has over 20 clinical de- teachers are top notch and international, with massage and beauty services to customers with partments with outpatient and inpatient services. world-renowned visiting guest teachers offering high expectations. Stepping into an oasis with Located in city center with convenient transporta- workshops and teacher trainings. Classrooms fusion Asian décor and dim lighting, guests will tion, it is influential throughout the East China are spacious and bright, and changing areas are be surrounded by tranquil sounds, wonderful region and enjoys a high reputation. Free parking clean and stylish. Classes taught in both Chinese fragrances and a romantic ambience while they get available within hospital compound. Special- and English. 1) 160 Pucheng Lu, by Shangcheng pampered with signature treatments. (0512-6763 ties: Family medicine, internal medicine, general Lu (5882 4388, 150 0003 0588) Daily 9am-10pm 0486) Harmony City Mall, Room 3210, Third Floor, surgery, gynecology, E.N.T., T.C.M., dental, vacci- [email protected] www.karmayoga.com. 269 Wangdun Lu, SIP, Suzhou 苏州工业园区旺墩路 nation and immunization, dermatology, urology, cn 2) 2nd floor, No. 758 South Xizang Lu 1) 浦城 269 号圆融星座商场 3 楼 3210 pediatrics, orthopedics, ophthalmology, cosmetic 路 160 号 , 近商城路 2) 西藏南路 758 号 2 楼 dermatology, plastic surgery etc. Operation United Family Healthcare (UFH) This 推油网 ·Seven Massage 宫七 A high-end mas- Hours: Mon – Sun 9am-5pm. 127 Caoxi Lu (5489 experienced, comprehensive, patient-centered sage brand that provides door to door service 3781, www.renaihospital.com) 漕溪路 127 号 caregiver has been providing personalized, and a variety of body essential oil spa massage Shanghai East International Medical Center international-level healthcare in China since in a quiet and private environment. Whether FURNITURE A joint venture general hospital providing 1997. Supporting local and expat individuals you prefer a pampering spa at home or during a comprehensive range of world-class ser- and families in Shanghai since 2004 with a your hotel stay, feel free to make appointments Master Arnold & WOOX!LIVING Find custom- vices including family medicine, vaccinations, wide range of advanced medical services, by calling 3490 1117 or 6882 1317 or go to made furniture & contemporary pieces to pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, chiropractic United Family now has two full-service hospitals their actual stores. Opening hours: 11-1am. complete your living space here and abroad. care, traditional Chinese medicine, psychological and two neighborhood clinics, conveniently Home service hours: 9am-midnight. 1) Pudong: From classic Canadian sideboard, vintage counseling, specialty care, surgical services, as located in both Puxi and Pudong. Its Shanghai 2302 Zhangyang Lu, by Jingnan Lu (6882 1317, icons to Barcelona contemporary seating, well as on-site 24-hour emergency service. also medical facilities are operated by over 200 highly- 15221309767) 2) Puxi: 2/F, 1832 Gubei Lu, by you’re invited to explore. Salesman who conducts CPR and first aid courses bimonthly experienced full-time doctors from more than Hongsong Dong Lu (3490 1117; 17717447707. speaks Chinese, English, German & Korean are in English and Chinese. 150 Jimo Lu (24 hour: 25 different countries and regions, supported by www.toyoo7.com) 3) No.441,wuning nan lu,by always open for your furniture & interior ideas. 5879-9999 or 150-0019-0899 ; [email protected]. more than 300 nurses. Visit our website (http:// changshou lu (62097991, 18217764112) 4) Showroom New Opening in October 2017 in cn; www.seimc.com.cn) 即墨路 150 号 shanghai.ufh.com.cn) to make appointments right 2110，Site2, 218 West Tianmu Lu , by Minli Lu Qingpu. on your WeChat through the new Patient Portal, or （52801997，19921155774） 5) 7A,1 Ruijin Nan Call us or visit online shop: Joyce (Korean/ Shanghai St. Reiss Medical Clinic Founded simply call the Shanghai-wide Appointment Center ： Lu, by Xujiahui Lu, Haixing Plaza (54188795, English/Chinese /German) 17321041917; in 2005, Shanghai St. Reiss Medical Clinic is lo- 400 639 3900. 1) Shanghai United Family 18202131727) 1) 张杨路 2302 号 , 近泾南路 2) 古北 Arnold (English/Chinese) 13611916641; cated in the secluded former French Concession, Hospital, 699 Pingtang Lu, by Kele Lu, Open 24/7 路 1832 号 2 楼 , 近红松东路 3) 武宁南路 441 号 2 楼， George (English/German) 18962412911 www. Donghu Road, is a foreign-related general outpa- 2) Shanghai United Family Pudong Hospital, 近长寿路 4) 天目西路 218 号嘉里不夜城 2 座 2110，近 wooxliving.com WeChat: wooxliving tient medical institutions. Since the inception, we 1598 Xin Jinqiao Lu, by Donglu Lu, Open 24/7 民立路 5) 黄浦区瑞金南路 1 号海兴广场 7A have always been committed to providing patients 3) United Family Quankou Clinic, 8 Quankou Lu, with high-quality medical services, due to a good by Linquan Lu Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-5.30pm, 4) environment, attentive and thoughtful doctor- United Family Fengshang Clinic, 689 Yunle Lu, patient communication, careful diagnosis and by Jinfeng Lu Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm 1)平塘路 professional personalized treatment which has 699 号，近可乐路 2) 新金桥路 1598 号 , 近东陆路 3) received high acclaim from diplomatic and public. 泉口路 8 号 , 近林泉路 4) 运乐路 689 号 , 近金丰路 , We offer following services: cancer medicine, car- (Appointment Hotline: 400 639 3900) diology, GI medicine, chest medicine, ENT, general surgery, pediatrics, gynecology, neurology, orthopedics, nephrology, psychiatry, psychology, skin dieasem and transplant medicine. Since 2019, Shanghai St. Reiss Medical Clinic set up a sleep center and established a cooperative alliance with the highly acclaimed Mayo Clinic Sleep Center in the US to fully introduce the operational processes and specifications of the Mayo Sleep Center and follow the guidelines for diagnosis and treatment of the American Association of Sleep Medicine (AASM). The Sleep Center is equipped with the world's leading digital wireless polysonography Subconscious Day Spa is a relaxing, eco-friendly, (PSG) monitoring equipment. The center has holistic health destination for those seeing to balance strong technical team and is led by highly quali- mind and soul. 1) Open daily, 10am-midnight, Fumin fied team of specialist physicians (including FRCP, Branch, 183 Fumin Lu, by Changle Lu (6415 0636) FCCP) and AASM accredited technicians and nurs- 2) Open daily, 10am-midnight, Dagu Branch, 458 es.Unit A, 19/F, 9 Donghu Lu, by Huaihai Zhong Dagu Lu, by Shimen Yi Lu (6327 1193) 3) Open Lu. Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. (5403 0228, 5403 8088) daily, 10am-10pm, Nanfeng Branch, Rm. 418, 东湖路9号19楼A座, 近淮海中路 North Building, The Place, 100 Zunyi Lu, by Ziyun Shanghai Yosemite Clinic is a full-service clinic pro- Xi Lu (6273 0161) 1）富民路183 号 , 近长乐 viding convenient walk-in medical services in Central 路 2）大沽路 458 号，近石门一路 3）遵义路 Pudong. Our team of experienced physicians and 100 号南丰城北区 418 室，近紫云西路 www. nurses are dedicated to practicing according to strict subconsciousdayspa.com patient safety standards and evidence based medi- The Spa at The Shanghai EDITION Featuring cine. Our services Include: Family Medicine, Internal a total of six treatment rooms and suites, Medicine, General Surgery , Orthopedics(Sports manicure and pedicure services, sauna, an Medicine), Dermatology & Medical Cosmetology, expansive relaxation area with fully equipped bar Dentistry, Gynecology ,Ophthalmology , Pediatrics, and a retail boutique, The Spa at The Shanghai ENT, Vaccination Service, Anesthesiology, Rehabilita- EDITION showcases the best wellness and beauty tion Medicine, Medical Imaging, , Pharmacy, Labora- practices, combining authentic Asian treatment tory, Psychiatry. (4008 500 911, www.yosemiteclinic. traditions with premium therapies, specialized com) 1) Daily : Mon-Sat: 9am-9pm Sun: 9am-5pm techniques and top-shelf products.. 6/F, Heritage B1-1F, 1398 Fang Dian lu, Pudong, Shanghai 2) Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Mon-Sun, 9am-6pm (Emergency Service 24/7) Fumin Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9988). Lu, by Julu Lu 1) 上海浦东新区芳甸路 1398 号 B1-1F 10am-11pm. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅楼 (Plus 乐坊下沉式广场 ) 2) 富民路 118 号 , 近巨鹿路 6 楼，近江西中路 SinoUnited Health is a leading medical service provider based in Shanghai. Their team of HAIRDRESSERS medical specialists are selected from both abroad YOGA and China, and renowned for their excellence Peter Salon is a professional, international-standard The Pure Yoga Shanghai flagship studio is and rich experience in their respective fields of hair care salon in the heart of Shanghai.Our rock located at iapm mall on 999 Huaihai Middle medical expertise. Shanghai-wide appointment star team of expert English-speaking hair stylists are Road, in the heart of Shanghai’s shopping center (400 186 2116, sinounitedhealth.com. always at your service. 80 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu, by district. Pure is Asia’s leading lifestyle brand cn, contact@sinounitedhealth) 1) Shanghai Anfu Lu,10am-9pm (5419 6757) and is proud to extend its foothold in Shanghai Center Clinic, Suite 601 West Tower, Shanghai 乌鲁木齐中路80号, 近安福路 after Hong Kong, Singapore, Taipei and New Center, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Xikang Lu Open York. Pure Yoga brings to our city its yoga Mon-Sat ,9am-6pm 2) Gefei Center Clinic, and fitness expertise, a team of passionate Medical, Dental and Endoscopy Center, 3/F, MASSAGE & SPA and internationally recognized instructors, Gopher Center, 757 Mengzi Lu, Open Mon- plus exciting workshops and teacher training Sun, 9am-6pm 3) New Bund Clinic, Medical Dragonfly Shanghai 1) 2/F, 559 Nanchang Lu, conducted by renowned yoga masters. L6-615, and Surgical Center, 255 Dongyu Lu, by Qirong by Shanxi Nan Lu (5456 1318) 2) 206 Xinle Lu, by iapm mall, 999 huaihai Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Lu Open, Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm 4) Zhangjiang Fumin Lu (5403 9982) 3) L119, 1378 Huamu Lu, Nan Lu (5466 1266) 淮海中路 999 号环贸 iapm 商 Clinic, Medical and Dental Center, 1/F, 268 by Fangdian Lu (2025 2308) 4) 193 Jiaozhou Lu, by 场 L6-615, 近陕西南路 Xiangke Lu, by Baiye Lu Open Mon-Fri, 9.30am- Xinzha Lu (5213 5778) 5) LG2-47 IFC, 8 Shiji Dadao, 5.30pm 5) Century Park Clinic, Sports Medicine by Lujiazui Huan Lu (6878 5008) 6) 616 Biyun Lu, Y+ Yoga Centre Whether you are looking to and Rehabilitation Center, 1717 Huamu Lu, by by Yunshan Lu (5835 2118) 8) SB1-05B, B1 South develop your spiritual wellbeing, body toning

Fangdian Lu Open Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm; Sat, Retail, Jingan Kerry Centre, 1218 Yan'an Zhong Lu, or just socialise with the hip young crowd, Y + CLASSIFIEDS

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Apple Montessori Apple Montessori Xuhui Campus Add: No. 290, West Jianguo Road cross Jiashan Road, Xuhui district Tel: 021-33567892; 13671874701 INTERCONTINENTAL SHANGHAI PUDONG Email: campus.xuhui@applemontessori. org Oriental House’s New Look Apple Montessori Pudong Campus Add: No. 889, South Yanggao Road cross Oriental House provides diners an authentic taste of Shanghainese cuisine, as well as traditional dim sum Pujian Road and soups. These delicious offerings are all handcrafted by Master Chef William Weng. Tel: 021-50771762; 13671874151 Email: campus.pudong@applemontes- While the restaurant wants to stick to its roots and respect high customer demand for classic favorites, sori.org YIBO RELOCATION SERVICE Oriental House has thrown some new exciting food experiences into the mix. The result is a creative new a la carte menu. Must-try dishes include: poached black carp filet with conpoy and matsutake in chicken Focus: consumme, baked codfish with teriyaki sauce and double-boiled beef soup with black garlic served in a HSK intensive course: teapot. 100RMB/class hour *30 class hours Office Relocation. Mon、Wed、Fri 14:00- - 17:00 Storage Service. Chef William welcomes you to experience the new menu for yourself. Book ahead for your choice of Sat、Sun 9:00- -12:00 Household Goods Relocation. private room or main dining area. Either way, the service team promises an unforgettable experience. Air Purifier Machines Rental Service. Daytime Course > 2/F, InterContinental Shanghai Pudong, 777 Zhangyang Lu, by Laoshan Lu张杨路777 Day: Monday-Friday Contact: 号, 上海锦江汤臣洲际大酒店2楼, 近崂山路 (5835 6666) Time: 10:00 ~17:00 Eason Luo E: [email protected] 1 to 1 Class M: 86-13764128061 T: 8621-62590003 Regular Daytime Course Price: W: www.yiborelo.com Class hour: 50H, 7500yuan Class hour: 100H, 14000yuan Promotion Daytime Course Price: RECRUITMENT SERVICE Class hour: 30H,4200yuan Class hour: 50H,6000yuan CESNA - Recruitment experts worldwide Huaihai Rd campus: +86 21 6152 7877 021-53067271 [email protected] [email protected] No.28 Gaolan Rd Shanghai TRAVEL

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