Sunrise Birding LLC PANTANAL BIRDING SAFARI June 1 – 9, 2013
TRIP REPORT
Sunrise Birding LLC, PO Box 274, Cos Cob, CT 06807 USA www.sunrisebirding.com 203.453.6724
Sunrise Birding LLC www.sunrisebirding.com Brazil: PANTANAL
TRIP REPORT June 1 - 9, 2013
Leaders: Gina Nichol, Steve Bird & Miguel Castelino
HIGHLIGHTS (Rarities, specialties, or simply a group favorite): • Jaguar at close range! • Great Rufous Woodcreeper • Hyacinth Macaws and their antics • Southern Screamer • Crowned Eagles • Woodpeckers, Toucans, Parrots, • Sunbitterns galore calling and Puffbirds • display flighting Three amazing boat trips • • Sunrise and sunsets on the boat Jabirus in numbers • • Star-filled skies at night Red-legged Seriema • • Varied habitats & changes in Helmeted Manakin – best views topography ever! • Our stay at Pousada do Parque in • Collared Crescentchest Chapada dos Guimarães • Burrowing Owls • Caipirinhas - oh yes! • Greater Rheas
Day 1, June 1 – Arrival Cuiaba All of us arrived a day early so just after breakfast we were ready to leave the hotel in Cuiaba and head south toward Pocone and the Pantanal. Along the way we passed large kettles of Black and Turkey Vultures and a few Southern Caracaras as we left the hustle and bustle of the city behind. Not far down the road a Toco Toucan crossed in front of us and landed on a nearby tree offering good views of this, the largest of the toucans with its massive orange and yellow bill. Also from the bus, there was a Guira Cuckoo and then in a large plowed field there were two Greater Rheas (Photo: Steve Bird).
We stopped at a pond just before Pocone to look at a group of Capybara that quickly fled to the safety of the water. Some Black-bellied Whistling Ducks were near shore and as we scanned the marsh and pond we realized that it was full of birds including White-headed Marsh Tyrant , Bare-faced Ibis , Wood Storks, Whistling Heron, two Muscovy Ducks, Striated Heron, Wattled Jacana, and Buff- necked Ibis. There were several Snail Kites and a Black-collared Hawk perched on a tree beyond the pond. A group of seven Guira Cuckoos were perched on a bare branch that emerged from a large tree, and there were Southern Lapwings and another Toco Toucan . A Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture on the grounbd crept through the grasses right in front of us and then took flight. The spectacle of birds was very exciting for our first hours of the trip but a White-
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throated Kingbird in a close tree got little attention, the other birds being much more colorful. Miguel heard a whistle call of a Black-tailed Marmoset and we tracked it down as it moved through the trees behind us. A large Pantanal Caiman with its mouth open sunned itself on a mud flat on one side of the pond. It was one of many we would see in the coming days. A rain shower hit just as we got into the bus to continue toward Pocone.
A quick stop in town for supplies gave us time to see a couple of Rufous Horneros on the ground in a parking lot, a few House Sparrows and a Tropical Kingbird . We arrived for lunch at a churrascaria and enjoyed the traditional Brazilian buffet and roasted meats while torrential rain fell outside. After lunch we found several birds around the restaurant including another Toco Toucan (Photo: Gina Nichol), Cattle Tyrants, Grayish Saltator, Ruddy Ground Dove, Great Kiskadee , Peach-fronted Parakeet , and Gray-breasted Martin .
We left the restaurant continuing south leaving the paved road onto the dirt Transpantaniera Highway. In a few minutes, we stopped to admire a lovely perched Aplomado Falcon , and while we were watching it the first of many Chaco Chachalacas flew across the road. Further on we had Roadside Hawk , a few Black-throated Saltators in a bush by the road, and a Laughing Falcon perched on a large tree. A dead tree became the perch for more Black-throated Saltators which were soon joined by Peach-fronted Parakeets and several Shiny Cowbirds . Our first of many Amazon Kingfishers was a little obscured but the second was more photo worthy.
We stopped by a patch of Thalia flowers in a wet ditch and soon found a White-tailed Goldenthroat feeding on them. A couple of Purple Gallinules and a Bananaquit were seen in the reeds on the other side, and a Narrow-billed Woodcreeper was preening on a cement power pole. On the other side was a Rufescent Tiger Heron perched on a tree and we saw many Snail Kites of varying ages perched on roadside fences and on tree branches. A Vermilion Flycatcher glowed like a red beacon and as we admired that an enormous Jabiru flew out just ahead of us and over the road looking massive and very prehistoric. On the other side, we spotted a Green Ibis perched on a low dead branch and just ahead in the tall reeds there were some lovely Yellow-billed Cardinals eliciting oohs and ahhs from the crowd. A Glittering- bellied Emerald flitted in and out feeding on the flowers.
On the other side of the road we saw the first of many Limpkins perched up on a branch. Some Gray-necked Wood Rails disappeared into the low grasses and out of sight quickly but then one worked its way up into a larger bush and disappeared deep into it. In the meantime, Steve spotted a White-rumped Monjita and got several people on to it. A couple of large flocks of Eared Doves flew way ahead of us and some were seen later at close range. A few Picazuro Pigeons moved among the tree tops and one stopped long enough for a scope view.
A distant Short-tailed Hawk was trumped by a Campo Flicker on a post and further down were
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two Burrowing Owls perched on posts. Behind us was a Scarlet-headed Blackbird that looked stunning in the afternoon light causing the bus to erupt again with admiration. Further on, another Chaco Chachalaca drew our attention to where it landed in a tree and just below was a Gray-necked Wood Rail in the open showing very well. Another stop for a Lineated Woodpecker working on a hole had us also looking at a Snail Kite right next to it perched and eating something. Some Buff-necked Ibis also looked good in the afternoon light, and beyond that a Cocoi Heron (Photo: Steve Bird) caught a huge fish and then wandered around with it trying to avoid nearby pirates and figure out how to eat it. A large flock of Limpkins fed in the open area behind and there were more Southern and Yellow- headed Caracaras around.
A Little Blue Heron was seen just before we crossed the first of the 120+ bridges. There were many Great Egrets and Snowy Egrets along the way as well as Wood Storks in an open area of water that was again filled with birds. Another Jabiru was here and behind it was a tree full of Neotropic Cormorants . Three Black-crowned Night Herons had us puzzled for a minute as they sat perched with their beaks tucked directly into their breasts. An Anhinga flew over and then we moved on to where a Roseate Spoonbill was feeding with several Maguari Storks further out in a flooded field.
A stop at KM 30 offered a rest stop as well as a colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques in a tree that had a large behive possibly offering protection to the birds from marauding monkeys. The same tree was visited by a Palm Tanager and a Cattle Tyrant as an Azara's Agouti ran across the road and out into the farm pasture. White-tipped Doves were also seen on the road and two Epaulet Orioles kept their epaulets hidden and as we were gathering to leave three Purplish Jays visited the tree just above the bus. Further on an Orange-backed Troupial was seen perched in the open. As the sun was setting we stopped for a flock of Nacunda Nighthawks (Photo: Steve Bird) flying over another open wet area. By the time we got off the bus they had moved through but in a few minutes more arrived and one even landed on the ground for scope views. Beyond that were two Pied Lapwings and there were Southern Lapwings and White-backed Stilts around. A large flock of Bare-faced Ibis flew by and there were pairs of Turquoise (Blue)-fronted Parrots flying toward a roost for the night.
By the time we reached our lodge for the night it was dark and as we got out of the bus a Thrush- like Wren was being very vocal in a tree by the river. We checked into our rooms and enjoyed a nice dinner before reviewing the amazing list of birds we had seen on our first fantastic day in the Pantanal!
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Day 2, June 2 – Pixaim River to KM 110 We arose early this morning for our pre-breakfast boat trip on the Pixaim River (Photo: Steve Bird). Some good coffee got us going and while it was still dark we walked out to the gate where a Little Nightjar was roosting on the ground and feeding on insects attracted to a light. As the sun came up we boarded our boats and headed up river where several Anhingas were seen in the trees.
There were some Snail Kites around and Turquoise-fronted Parrots were coming off their night roosts. Great and Snowy Egrets were seen as well as a few Cocoi Herons as we cruised slowly toward the sunrise. Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers were present in numbers and were very vocal throughout the morning. A Rufescent Tiger Heron was much more subdued on its perch and it was revealed that the cow-like calls we were hearing were indeed coming from this species. A Band-tailed Nighthawk flitted over the water and an Undulated Tinamou called from the forest. A Narrow-billed Woodcreeper flew into a large tree and worked up the trunk and a few Yellow-chevroned Parakeets flew into a close tree and were seen well. Some Greater Anis were seen behind some vegetation and Pale-vented Pigeons surveyed the river from their treetop perches. Yellow-billed Cardinals were foraging at the water’s edge on emergent vegetation giving good views as was a Lesser Kiskadee . A Yellow-chinned Spinetail was more difficult to see in the low vegetation as we continued on. Around the next bend was a tree full of Neotropic Cormorants and there were a few Black-crowned Night Herons around. A White- wedged Piculet moved quickly out of sight as a group of Chestnut-eared Aracaris flew among the treetops across the river. We cut the motors and drifted toward the bank where a couple of Rusty-backed Spinetails and a Swainson's Flycatcher were seen. The Rusty-backeds moved into a larger tree where there was a Straight-billed Woodcreeper and a Rufous-tailed Jacamar . A few Green Iguanas were seen perched on the edge of branches waiting for the warming rays of the sun.
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We continued on to an area with open farmland to our right and soon a large Jabiru approached us in flight and nearly landed on the boats! The Jabiru (Photo: Gina Nichol) then moved over to the shore right in front of us and posed for several minutes checking us out as intently as we were marveling at it. Meanwhile, three Purplish Jays flew into a large tree up the bank and behind that was a tree that held two Giant Cowbirds and several Picazuro Pigeons . Further on, we had male and female Bare-faced Curassows in a large tree and then we moved to the opposite bank where Miguel coaxed out a Buff-breasted Wren and a pair of Mato Grosso Antbirds that allowed varying views.
A Capped Heron flew over practically unnoticed as a Red-throated Piping Guan walked along some high tree branches. The same large tree held Masked Gnatcatcher, Plain Inezia and a Solitary Cacique . Further on was a Squirrel Cuckoo down below a couple of Silver-beaked Tanagers . A Chestnut-bellied Guan was low in some close shrubs but views of this large endemic were difficult. Henrietta spotted a pair of Black-fronted Nunbirds sitting in the sun on the outer branches of a large tree. A Rusty-margined Flycatcher was pointed out on its treetop perch on our way back and there were a few Southern Rough-winged Swallows perched on various fence posts and branches. A Pale-legged Hornero showed nicely for us on one side of the river and then further on we had a pair of Purple- throated Euphonias up in a tree with a Pale- vented Pigeon and a few Sayaca Tanagers . All at once three Giant River Otters emerged from the shoreline vegetation as if to scrutinize us. They disappeared underwater and then re-emerged further away crossing the river behind us. We were now late for breakfast but no one seemed to mind with the fantastic wildlife we had seen on our morning cruise. As the first boat unloaded at the dock, the second boat picked up a Rufous Cachalote (Photo: Steve Bird). While that boat unloaded, those of us left on the dock marveled at two Jabirus that sat on the roof surveying the efforts of the fishermen. Sunrise Birding LLC, PO Box 274, Cos Cob, CT 06807 USA www.sunrisebirding.com 203.453.6724
We had breakfast and then spent a little time at the lodge feeders which served Saffron Finch, Baywing, Shiny and Giant Cowbird and Yellow-billed Cardinal . A few Scaled Doves came in and perched in the trees above. Later on, we walked a trail along the river and got close looks at Lesser Kiskadee and a Juvenile Red-tailed Hawk . Miguel checked a trail into a brushy area and it was clear so we followed him into an area where we could hear a White-lored Spinetail . The Spinetail was uncooperative but a female Great Antshrike came in to check us out as did a Rusty-fronted Tody Flycatcher . A pair of Thrush-like Wrens duetted up in a large tree to our left and a Silver-beaked Tanager came into the same tree. We scoped a Buff -bellied Hermit ahead of us above the trail and this led to a whole array of birds in the same area including Plain Inezia, Stripe-necked Tody Tyrant , Fuscous Flycatcher, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, a pair of White-wedged Piculets , and a Barred Antshrike .
We continued on from this amazing spot but the heat of the day was building so it was quiet except for a pair of Rufous-tailed Jacamars that were seen well. Then Miguel heard a call and played it back and to our delight a gorgeous Helmeted Manakin (Photo: Steve Bird) flew in and perched in the open about Bill's head! This handsome bird posed for a moment and then moved to various perches around us showing well and supplying one of the highlights of our trip. We began our walk back toward the lodge and stopped at another spot where another Helmeted Manakin was seen and photographed. Amazing! While following the bird through the forest, Gina spotted a Band- tailed Antbird foraging above a puddle on the ground and we managed good views of that as well. It was a great morning of birding!
After lunch and a short siesta, we packed the bus and continued our southward journey on the Transpantaneira Highway. Our first stop was for two Southern Screamers in a farm field. Further on there were several birds kettling above the open wetlands including two Jabirus , many Wood Storks , and Black-collared hawks and a few Black Vultures . We stopped on several bridges and saw close Anhinga s, a Gray-necked Wood Rail , and Black-backed Water Tyrant . A stunning Scarlet-headed Blackbird earned an appreciative stop and looked absolutely beautiful in the afternoon sun.
We passed several puddles filled with yellow and green butterflies (Photo: Gina Nichol) and stopped at one to get a closer look and some photos. There were literally hundreds of butterflies and when they took flight, they swirled around like a colorful snow globe. Next up was a Blue-throated Piping Guan in a large tree. We got out to walk the road that cut
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through a sprawling marsh and found Chopi Blackbirds, Wattled Jacanas, Black-capped Donacobius, four White Woodpeckers on a huge tree, Unicolored Blackbirds , a flyby Bat Falcon , Grayish Saltators , another Southern Screamer , and a few Buff-necked Ibis . Some noisy Monk Parakeets drew our attention to the palm tree where they landed and mobbed a nice looking Crane Hawk (Photo: Gina Nichol). The Hawk looked to be marauding the stick nest of the parakeets.
On the other side of the road were several Purple Gallinules and at least two Azure Gallinules . A Creamy-bellied Thrush was well camouflaged in a small tree. A couple of Jabirus were walking in the background and several more Black-capped Donacobius were seen. The light of the day was beginning to fade and our last stop was for two Hyacinth Macaws perched on an open branch of a large tree. Two more of the massive blue birds flew to the top of a nearby tree and seemed to be communicating with the original birds. More birds flew into the tree and by the end of the day, a total of 8 Hyacinth Macaws were perched in the trees just up from our lodge. It was another amazing day capped by a massive rain storm that hit during dinner.
Day 3, June 3 – Porto Jofre & Cuiaba River Overnight rains made for muddy conditions on the road but the storm had moved through so we were out pre-dawn on one of the side roads near the lodge. We walked in the dark and spotted two shining eyes further down the road. Scopes revealed that it was a Crab-eating Fox and it proceeded toward us allowing better looks as the light of the day was coming up.
Birds seen along the quiet road included Amazonian Motmot, Hyacinth Macaws flying over, Golden-collared Macaw, Turquoise-fronted Parrots , an Olivaceous Woodcreeper foraging on a large trunk, a Crimson- crested Woodpecker working on a dead branch, Scaly- headed Parrots , and Boat-billed Flycatcher . Down the road three female Bare-faced Curassows were joined by a male and there were several Chaco Chachalacas around. A Flavescent Warbler sat perched just inside the forest and sang giving us a good show. Further down on the left a Red Pileated Finch (Photo: Steve Bird) was seen and eventually tracked down for all to see. Also around were Silver-beaked Tanagers, Saffron-billed Sparrow, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet , and a seemingly out of place Gray-headed Tanager . We continued walking to another productive area that yielded Forest Elaenia, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Ashy-headed Greenlet, Short-crested Flycatcher, Gilded Sapphire, Tropical Parula , female Crested Becard , and an Undulated Tinamou that came out briefly onto the road and then disappeared back into the thick vegetation.
We headed back to the lodge for breakfast and were delighted to see the Hyacinth Macaws perched above the compound. There were plenty of noisy Chaco Chachalacas around and a few Buff-necked Ibis . After breakfast, we headed south on the Transpantaneira toward Porto Jofre on the Cuiaba River. Our first stop was for some Chestnut-bellied Guans on the road and then for some Picui Ground Doves moving on the ground along the side of the road. Our Sunrise Birding LLC, PO Box 274, Cos Cob, CT 06807 USA www.sunrisebirding.com 203.453.6724 amazing driver Luis navigated us through the muddy road and at times we were not sure we were going to make it but he got us through with no problem leaving some of us wondering how we would get back later. Our next stop produced White-lored Spinetail, Fuscous Flycatcher and a flyover flock of Blue- crowned Parakeets . Our next stop was at a grove of trees surrounding an abandoned building. Groups of Capybaras were all along the road ahead of us. We stopped at the grove where there was a Plumbeous Ibis (Photo: Steve Bird) , Little Woodpecker , two Great Horned Owls , Swainson's Flycatcher, Common Tody Flycatcher, Great Antshrike, Black- collared Hawk , Solitary Cacique , Yellow- chinned Spinetail and nice looks at a very smart Chotoy Spinetail . A pair of Greater Thornbirds were building a nest right above our heads and one brought in a particularly large stick and proceeded to try and place it in several parts of the nest for our entertainment.
Continuing on we had a juvenile Great Black Hawk perched and a couple of pairs of Southern Screamers . We stopped on a bridge to admire some Large-billed Terns flying over the water below. We arrived at Porto Joffre and checked out the pond with the large water lilies and found a statuesque Rufescent Tiger Heron , more Large-billed Terns , and an adult Wattled Jacana with two fluffy chicks. Also here we saw Yellow-chinned Spinetail , White-winged Swallow, Tropical Kingbirds and Cattle Egrets .
After lunch, we set off on our boat ride up the river to look for Jaguar. Heading up river we passed a sandbar with several Yellow-billed and Large-billed Terns and two Black Skimmers (Photo: Steve Bird) and just as we arrived to take a look the boats got news of a Jaguar sighting along the river and took off speedily. We arrived at the spot where a couple of other boats were moving around but no one was looking at anything. If there was a big cat there, it had moved off
Sunrise Birding LLC, PO Box 274, Cos Cob, CT 06807 USA www.sunrisebirding.com 203.453.6724 before we arrived. We continued up river carefully searching the banks and found a nest with some fluffy white baby Anhingas standing next to it. A juvenile Rufescent Tiger Heron was a nice find and seen at close range. We cruised a few more kilometers and found a group of 7 Giant River Otters swimming next to the bank. A few of them climbed up the bank and we could see just how large they were. We were delighted to see them walk along the bank and then slide down the mud back into the water.
Once again the radio sounded and the boats quickly turned around to head downstream. We ended up at the same stop as earlier where two boats were already looking at something in the thick undergrowth. A pair of Black Vultures were surveying the situation from above, something that can happen when a big cat has a kill. Our drivers repositioned us into the best available spot to see the spots of a Jaguar (Photo: Pablo Petracci) on the ground under thick cover. We strained to see it and watched it vigilantly to try and get better views. Meantime there were several birds around that got limited notice while we waited for better views of the Jaguar . These included a Striped Cuckoo that was heard in the area but not seen.
At one point, the big cat lifted its head and looked at us and it was then that we realized just how big this animal was! We continued to watch the Jaguar until the sun started to go down and then our drivers took the boats up river to float us past the big cat for a closer look. As we drifted past, the Jaguar sat up eliciting gasps and nearly making our hearts stop! What a view! We could see the whole cat and marveled at its massive body. It was an amazing experience and worth the patient wait to see this magnificent creature.
The sun was setting now making for a gorgeous pink and orange sky and we headed back down river. As the light faded 100 or so Band-tailed Nightjars came out and flew above the river. A tree just off the main channel held perhaps 200 Great Egrets roosting and making for a nice spectacle in the fading light. By now the darkness brought out some bats which were difficult to see well. Miguel said they were Lesser Bulldog Bats and perhaps a few Fishing Bats .
Darkness fell quickly and the rest of the ride back was thought by some to be absolutely idyllic under the star filled sky and Milky Way. We finally reached the dock and boarded the bus wondering what the condition of the road would be as we headed back to the lodge. There was barely a hint of this morning’s mud bath and the ride was smooth. We did a little spotlighting as we traveled picking up to Great Horned Owls , a Red Brocket Deer , and a Pauraque on the road
Day 4, June 4 – Morning birding to KM 40, Pousada Rio Claro The morning light brought on the raucous calls of both Buff-necked Ibis and Chaco Chachalacas seeming to compete to see who was the loudest. After a quick coffee we walked out on the road beside the lodge. It was misty and thousands of cobwebs had collected dew making a spectacular early morning scene. A Yellow-billed Cardinal posed nicely for photos and a couple of magnificent Hyacinth Macaws squawked from the large tree in our lodge grounds. As we walked the road we found the footprints of a Margay and noted Snail Kite, Rufous Hornero , Black-capped Donacobius, Little Woodpecker , and plenty of Striated Herons . Some Scaly- headed Parrots showed well as did a pair of Black-collared Hawks and a nice Pearl Kite that sat perched in the early morning sun.
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We then returned for breakfast but got distracted by the Hyacinth Macaws (Photo: Gina Nichol) on the same perch but now lit up by the morning sunshine. After breakfast we took a short drive soon stopped on one of the bridges to watch a pair of Giant River Otters slowly swimming toward us. They went under the bridge and reappeared giving us wonderful views. Just before we left this spot a tiny American Pygmy Kingfisher was seen while we were watching a Common Tody Flycatcher.
Further on, we walked along a track where we saw Roadside Hawks , a couple of Red Pileated Finches , and two superb male Fork-tailed Woodnymphs feeding on mistletoe flowers in a tree. A Swainson’s Flycatcher put in an appearance followed by some great looks at several footprints in the mud which included Tapir, Crab-eating Racoon and Crab-eating Fox . A Fawn- breasted Wren was also seen here and overhead we had a kettle of 30 or so Wood Storks soaring in a thermal. A Morpho butterfly floated by and the blue on its upper wings glowed in the morning light.
A little further on a locked gate stopped our forward progress on the road so we went into a patch of forest and managed to get good views of Rufous Casiornis , as well as Tropical Parula and Forest Elaenia . A Ferruginous Pygmy Owl responded to Steve’s whistles and soon we found it calling from a tall tree. It wasn’t long before birds came in to mob the owl and these included Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Ashy-headed Greenlet , Silver-beaked Tanager and a very nice Gilded Sapphire . Three Fawn-breasted Wrens finally gave satisfying views and a King Vulture flew past but all too briefly. On the way out a Red Brocket Deer was seen on the road as was another Crab-eating Fox .
Later in the morning, we returned to the lodge and had a little rest time before lunch. In the grounds were groups of crazy looking Guira Cuckoos, Picui Ground Doves and an immature Black-collared Hawk . After lunch we packed up and set off north along the Transpantaneira. Roadside stops produced some great looks at Marsh Deer as well as a pair of Jabiru on a nest. Beside an area of Termite mounds we saw White-rumped Monjita and a Long-tailed Ground Dove while on the other side of the road a Cattle Tyrant was hitching a ride on the back of a partially submerged Capybara.
Several Chalk-browed Mockingbirds were around and we stopped to move a good sized Red- footed Tortoise off the road. We continued on with a short rest stop at Pantanal Mato Grosso
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Lodge and then onward towards our next lodge at Rio Claro. We turned into the entrance road and found a Purple Gallinule feeding a chick. A walk along the entrance road found us a brief Blue-crowned Trogon followed by a fabulous pair of very confiding Sunbitterns (Photo: Steve Bird). Both Crimson-crested and Pale- crested Woodpecker were also found in the area. We continued into the fazenda crossing an open area that offered Roseate Spoonbill, Wood Stork and many of the other waders we had seen so far.
Day 5, June 5 – Morning boat trip and travel to Currupira Das Araras This morning right outside our rooms were Toco Toucans, Chestnut-bellied Guans , and a noisy but quickly departing Red-billed Scythebill . We took a boat ride up the Rio Claro under crystal clear blue skies and incredible reflections in the water. As we traveled, we found Short-crested Flycatcher, Rusty-margined Flycatcher , Amazon Kingfisher, Swainson's Flycatcher, Golden-green Woodpecker , several Rufescent Tiger Herons , and Epaulet Oriole . A few Hyacinth Macaws flew down the river ahead of us and a Blue-throated Piping Guan was seen perched and preening.
We cruised slowly along the edge of the mats of water hyacinth and got close views of Lesser Kiskadee, Black-capped Donacobius , and several Yellow-billed Cardinals . Two Orange- backed Troupials attracted our attention to a large tree where a Red-billed Scythebill was working up the trunk. A moment later two Red-billed Scythebills flew across the river right in front of us. Further on there was a Black-and-gold Howler Monkey spotted sitting in a tree quietly. We turned around to try another part of the river when Carolyn spotted a Sungrebe pumping its way along the edge. The bird disappeared behind some water hyacinth and then reappeared further along.
After that, we continued downstream and stopped to look at a Toco Toucan that had flown across the river into a large tree. Below the Toucan was a large rufous bird that turned out to be a Great Rufous Woodcreeper . As we were watching that, another Sungrebe swam all the way across the river. And just then Gina spotted a Boat-billed Heron lurking in the dark depths of the riverside vegetation. It was another stellar boat trip with the bonus of two sightings of Sungrebe !
Later in the morning, we birded the entrance road and saw Southern Lapwing, Plumbeous Ibis and two Brazilian Teal flying over a fence. Two Sunbitterns were seen close to the road and both flew to the other side of a small pool revealing their fantastic wing pattern. Another Sunbittern was seen further on.
We got out to walk in the relative shade of the forest and found Swainson's Flycatcher, Thrush- like Wrens gathering nesting material, another Great Rufous Woodcreeper , and Pearly-vented Tody Tyrant. The Tody Tyrant led us to a tree of life that held a female Hooded Tanager, Saffron Finches, Red-pileated Finch , and Yellow-billed Cardinal . A small track off the main road offered a pair of Rufous Cachalotes and a pair of Little Woodpeckers mating on a branch. On the way back we had Whistling Herons flying, several Cattle Egrets tending to some horses, and a young Great Black Hawk flying away.
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We loaded the bus and headed north passing expanses of flooded fields with nearly 100 Maguari Storks (Photo: Steve Bird), 200 or more Limpkins, Wood Storks , Jabiru, and many of the other birds we had enjoyed during our days on the Transpantaneira. A stop for a Little Blue Heron near one of the bridges found us a unique lizard crossing the road which turned out to be a the rare and unusual Caiman Lizard .
We stopped for photo opps at the entrance sign for the Transpantaneira and then departing the area via Pocone and Cuiaba heading to the dry forest west of Cuiaba. We arrived at our lodge under starlit skies and checked into our rooms for the next two nights.
Day 6, June 4 – Currupira Das Araras This morning we were up and out before breakfast admiring the view down the valley in front of our lovely lodge. There were Chopi Blackbirds around, a Rufous-bellied Thrush , three Toco Toucans and a Chestnut-eared Aracari in a distant tree.
We took the bus along the farm roads into the valley. Some Least Grebes in the first farm pond got our attention and there was a Southern Screamer in a wet area across the way. As we looked at the Screamer, a Crab-eating Fox walked across in the background. A perched Gray Hawk got our attention and a Grassland Sparrow appeared at close range on top of a dead tree. A couple of perched Dusky-headed Parrots were not far from a pair of American Kestrels also resting on a tree top and surveying the open valley. We got out and saw Little Woodpecker and had nice views of Yellow-tufted Woodpecker.
Further on a small pond held more Least Grebes and Brazilian Teal sitting on a rock. Miguel found a Crowned Eagle perched in a tree which flew off and we were able to relocate it before it flew again being chased by a Gray Hawk . Our next stop was for a Campo Flicker in a small tree at the edge of the forest. The next open area held several Greater Rheas and a close pair of Burrowing Owls at their burrow. On the way back we stopped for a Masked Tityra that quickly departed leaving a Black- throated Saltator in its wake. In the distant banana trees was a Great Black Hawk perched and a Greater Yellow-headed Vulture was spotted soaring overhead. As we passed the large farm pond, a White Hawk was seen flying high in the sky.
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After breakfast we headed into the forest past a pond with several Least Grebes, Muscovy Ducks and a few more Brazilian Teal . We spent some time searching the area for the mythical Harpy Eagle and over the course of the morning had 7 Lettered Aracaris (Photo: Steve Bird) , King Vultures, Black Vultures , and a pair of Crowned Eagles engaged in some sort of display flight.
Back at the lodge, we freshened up for lunch when some Blue-crowned Trogons (Photo: Gina Nichol) were found right outside our rooms. There were at least four with two males and two females showing fairly well. As we were photographing them, Steve found a pair of close Yellow- chevroned Parakeets cavorting on a low tree branch. They did not seem to mind the paparazzi and it was amazing how camouflaged they were against the leaves.
After lunch we had a look at some Swallow-winged Puffbirds in some trees behind our rooms before heading out for the afternoon. We loaded the bus and drove out past the fazenda noting several Guira Cuckoos along the road and large numbers of White-faced Whistling Ducks in the pond. We walked a forest trail and found Buff- throated Woodcreeper, Magpie Tanager, Squirrel Cuckoo, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Short-tailed Pygmy Tyrant, Black-fronted Nunbird, Moustached Wren, Masked Tityra , and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper . A Black-throated Antwren did its best to avoid being seen but later on we had one very close to the trail and seen well by all. A Dull-capped Attila came in above us and showed well and a beautiful blue Cracker butterfly was admired on a tree trunk. A large fig tree deeper in the forest played host to a small troupe of Brown Capuchin Monkeys .
The afternoon light was fading when we noticed the silhouettes of two birds fighting on a branch. They disappeared but a few minutes later one returned and scope views helped us note its features and later identify it as a Striolated Puffbird . We walked out of the forest in the dark hearing one or two Southern Tawny-bellied Screech Owls along the way. On the way back to the lodge, we had a Pauraque on the road that sat for a few minutes and then flew showing its white wing patches. Back at the lodge we enjoyed another great dinner and review of the birds seen during the day.
Day 7, June 7 - Currupira Das Araras to Chapada dos Guimarães We were up before dawn this morning enjoying a cup of coffee when a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl started calling right next to the restaurant. In a few short minutes we were watching this tough little character in the trees just a few feet away. As the sun was coming up we drove out to a farm past the lime plant. A couple of Orange-winged Parrots flew high overhead not offering much color and there were Chalk-browed Mockingbirds and a Rufous-bellied Thrush moving around the various fence posts. Some Scaled Doves moved off the road ahead of us as we walked toward the farm gate. A couple of noisy Buff-necked Ibis eyed us from their perch on a palm frond and a few Red-bellied Macaws flew quietly overhead. The double knock of a Red-necked
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Woodpecker was heard coming from the other side of a nearby hill but never came into view. We walked back to the bus where a Black-fronted Nunbird was perched in the morning sun. A flock of Dusky-headed Parakeets flew in and perched on the palms near the road offering good views and a Moustached Wren was flitting around the close tree trunks. We drove back past the lime plant noting Gray-breasted Martins on the power lines and a pair of Bat Falcons up on a dead snag.
After breakfast we went back out to the forest noting a pair of Burrowing Owls perched on a rock in one of the cow fields along the way. We stopped the bus for a Crimson-crested Woodpecker and decided to get out and walk the rest of the way. It was a fortuitous decision as the area offered some good views of woodpeckers. We saw Little and Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers , heard a Striped Cuckoo and found a Lettered Aracari on the left side of a dead tree. Further on a pair of White Woodpeckers (Photo: Gina Nichol) were tearing through a palm leaf to get to the insect nest inside and seemed unfettered by our close presence. A third White Woodpecker joined them offering great photo opps for a while.
After lunch, we packed up and departed the lodge for Chapada dos Guimarães. Along the way, we stopped for good views of a Red-legged Seriema in a farm pasture. As we got closer to the national park, the eroded red cliffs made for incredible scenery in the afternoon light. We arrived at the lodge at sunset with just enough daylight to take in the wonderful setting of our home for the next two nights. The power was out so we had an impromptu happy hour on the verandah of the lovely restaurant. The power was soon restored and we spent the remainder of the evening enjoying a fantastic meal and reminiscing about all we had seen during our trip.
Day 8, June 8 – Cerrado and Chapada dos Guimarães Our last full day started early with a short trip to a reddish dirt road that lead through the sprawling Chapada habitat. Flocks of noisy Peach-fronted Parakeets were flying around at our first stop which also yielded Black-faced Tanager , Plain-crested Elaenia, Red-pileated Finch , White-rumped Tanager , and Rufous-winged Antshrike . Next up were 3 female Plumbeous Seedeaters, Pale- breasted Spinetail , and a Lesser Elaenia . Four Toco Toucans flew over and a White- banded Tanager was seen on the power lines and also on top of some low shrubs. Miguel heard the call of a Collared Crescentchest (Photo: Gina Nichol) and soon we were admiring this cracking bird at close range as it called from the middle of a bush right in front of us. It was an amazing scene that we enjoyed for several minutes before moving up the road.
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A stop for a perched Gray Monjita also got us views of a perched Southern Rough- winged Swallow . Further on we walked a sandy trail and found a Cinnamon Tanager perched next to a Picazuro Pigeon . Also on this trail were Southern Scrub Flycatcher, Lesser Elaenia , and Glittering-bellied Emerald . Back on the bus we had several Burrowing Owls perched on fenceposts. A Spot-backed Puffbird (Photo: Gina Nichol) looked amazing in the light as it perched on a post and as it flew off we saw that there were indeed two of these marvelous birds in the area. Steve spotted some "special" birds in the distance so we moved up to where a group of Curl-crested Jays were perched on a tree not far away. Miguel played the call and the jays immediately flew toward us and landed in the trees right above us offering astoundingly close views! Another stop had us looking at a White-tailed Hawk that was floating in the sky and then soaring over the landscape. An American Kestrel was chasing a Black Vulture in the distance and while watching that we spotted another White-tailed Hawk .
We moved on to the Véu de Noiva (Bridal Veil) waterfall where there were Gray-breasted Martins perched on the cliff walls, a few Blue-and-white Swallows flying below us in the canyon and some colorful Blue-headed Parrots lit up by the sun and flying at eye level. The stunning landscape was well photographed and our lunch was taken on an open air verandah with a fantastic view. During lunch a couple of Red-and-green Macaws flew by and after lunch Steve spotted a White-eared Puffbird (Photo: Steve Bird) right next to us on the road out. The bird flew and as we tried to relocate it we found a second bird a little further ahead.
In the afternoon we birded some gallery forest in another part of the park. A Dot-eared Coquette fed on some white flowers and was seen well as soon as we got off the bus. A couple of White-vented Violetears were calling from the trees above and a pair of endemic Planalto Slaty Antshrikes called and showed well from some nearby bushes. A White-bellied Warbler also called but remained hidden and male and female Blue Dacnis showed very well in the trees above our heads. Further on the forest was quiet perhaps from the disturbance caused by the grading of the road. We had a couple more Red-and-green Macaws fly over, a Pale-bellied Thrush on the road, Yellow-rumped Caciques making a racket, a female Band-tailed Manakin , Red-eyed (Chivi) Vireo, Large-billed Antwren, Forest Elaenia and a Squirre l Cuckoo with no tail.
Heading back to the lodge, we entered the gate and about half way down the private drive we saw a Red-legged Seriema Sunrise Birding LLC, PO Box 274, Cos Cob, CT 06807 USA www.sunrisebirding.com 203.453.6724 walking along a dirt path. Just beyond that was an Aplomado Falcon (Photo: Steve Bird) perched on a dead tree close to the road allowing fabulous views. We spent the rest of the afternoon birding the grounds of the lodge and picked up Blue-winged Macaw, Gilded Sapphire, Green-barred Woodpecker, Blue-tufted Starthroat , and some people had views of an Ornate Hawk-eagle . A tree down the valley held several Channel-billed Toucans and a Chestnut-eared Aracari . A few Brazilian Cavies were seen as well.
Later in the evening we celebrated the success of our trip with a few bottles of Sunrise wine and enjoyed another delicious meal.
Day 9, June 9 – Pousada do Parque to Cuiaba This morning we were up and out for a last morning of birding before returning to Cuiaba for our flights home. Overnight a Brazilian Porcupine had been seen in the palm tree near the pool. In the morning light, three Channel-billed Toucans were perched in the same tree down the valley. This morning's birds included Masked Tityra, Blue-headed Parrot, Green-barred Woodpecker, Southern Lapwing, Rufous-bellied Thrush , Scaled Pigeon , Wedge-tailed Grass Finch, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Rusty-backed Antwren, Red-pileated Finch , and White-lined Tanager . A Pheasant Cuckoo called from a distance and some Red-shouldered Macaws flew over. We diverted off the road on a small track where a White-backed Fire-eye was calling and found that we had walked right past a Mato Grosso Lancehead (Botrops mattogrossensis ) snake on the trail. This pit viper was ready to strike and in fact lunged at Pablo as he stepped past it. Pablo kept a close eye on it and we all got past it safely and back to the main track. On the way back we had our best views of Channel-billed Toucan and enjoyed great views of Guira Cuckoos lined up on a tree top with their backs to the morning sun.
We said goodbye to our gracious host Oswaldo and boarded the bus for the trip back to Cuiaba. It had been an excellent trip with exceptional sightings and a fun-loving group which made the trip all that more enjoyable. Thank you all for joining us on this adventure!
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