onPulse

on exploration

on innovation

on transformation Video demonstrations online at Contents

Cooking with PRODUCT NEWS FOOD NEWS RESOURCE NEWS All About Lentils

Cross Utilization and Menu Plan-Overs 4 14 24 , Dips, and Spreads GROWING INFORMATION GRAB & GO PULSE FAQS

Lentils in the Mediterranean Diet

Popped Lentils 6 16 26 CHEF MEMORIES THE PROTEIN FLIP HEALTH AND NUTRITION OF PULSES Lentils in a Plant-Based Diet

The Protein Flip

Cooking with Puréed Lentils 8 18 27 WHAT MAKES A PULSE A PULSE? PAIRINGS AND PLATFORMS SUSTAINABILITY AND MATHEMATICS Cooking with OF PULSES

Lentils in Desserts and Sweet Applications 10 20 GLOBAL INSPIRATIONS WHAT IS A FLAVOR SPONGE? 28 RECIPE GENERATOR 11 22 Contributors BLUE ZONES: THE PULSE OF TRANSFORMATION KIT LONGEVITY, HEALTH, AND DELICIOUSNESS Zach Minot Culinary Educator and Editor

Megan McConagha Designer and Creative Director 13 MEET THE GROWERS Bill Briwa, CEC, CHE Professor, Culinary Arts

Almir Da Fonseca, CEC Professor, Culinary Arts

Sanna Delmonico, MS, RDN, CHE Lecturing Instructor

Sophie Egan, MPH Director, Programs and Culinary Nutrition

Dave Kamen PC III, CHE, MBA Manager, CIA Consulting Projects

Sarah Linkenheil, CHE Assistant Professor, Culinary Arts

Liam MacLeod Manager, Consulting Client Relationships

Rebecca Peizer, CHE, CEC Associate Professor, Culinary Arts

A CIA CONSULTING PUBLICATION This educational piece was created as an industry service by the Culinary Institute of America and CIA Consulting. Sausage + Lentil Ragout 2 ONPULSE Product News Growing Information

Pulse Plant Characteristics

Dry Lentils Dry Plant grows Plant grows Plant grows Plant grows 13 inches tall 15-19 inches tall 24 inches tall 30-36 inches tall

Contains 4-7 Contains 1 Contains 1-3 Contains 4-9 beans per pod per pod lentils per pod peas per pod

Growing season

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC

Planted Harvested in Growing regions early May their dry form mid-August Growing Regions

Chickpea Growing Regions

Lentil Growing Regions

Pea Growing Regions

4 ONPULSE ONPULSE 5 Product News

Chef Memories

Almir Da Fonseca Rebecca Peizer Bill briwa

I am a Brazilian-born chef, and while Being a half-Israeli, I grew up eating One winter holiday season, when growing up in Brazil I was exposed a variety of Israeli recipes made I was 14 or so, one of my brothers to pulses in our kitchens and at our from pulses. Dishes like , decided to tour by bicycle tables. A fantastic memory is of David Kamen the famous fried chickpea balls, Sarah Linkenheil and, to my delight, he asked me to my mother and father, both great Mujadarra, a lentil and rice with join. I quickly agreed. We packed cooks. Both made amazing pots of Pulses were not staple menu items D’or. I had heard a lot about this fried , and my most favorite, Growing up in Germany, the country our panniers, pumped our tires, highly flavorful black beans for our in my house growing up. When I restaurant and was excited when a Cholent, the dish we broke Sabbath of hearty, hot, and filling food, lentils rolled our sleeping bags, and set off family at the dinner table, always was very young, my father quit the few friends invited me to join them with every Saturday night. were most definitely a staple in my Sophie Egan on a grand adventure. Zach Minot served with rice and farofa de ovo piano tuning business and went after our shift ended. mom’s kitchen. There was nothing (egg farofa — our amazing manioc back to college. When he did this, Cholent was the food I looked better than my mom’s piping hot, What was I thinking? A 14 year-old On my very first day in the world flour toasted with herbs and broken my mom went back to work to Entering this rustically decorated forward to most of all as I grew perfectly thickened with My pivotal moment with pulses is a minor and deserving of care and of food television, I helped produce eggs). The next morning and many support the family (my two younger Provençal bistro was an eye opener older not only because of the speck and sausages. came a few years after college protection! It was small consolation a cooking show featuring lentils. other mornings for breakfast before brothers, my parents, and myself). to the food neophyte I was at the immense amount of time it took when I was home in Seattle visiting that we saw the sights of Europe Scanning through the recipes going to school, my mother would Consequently there was not a lot time. Not having a clue what to to cook this dish, but mostly for Since I now live in sunny California, my parents. I decided to meet up and experienced its rich and diverse for the episode, I saw that we take the remaining cooked black of time to cook on the weekdays. order, I was encouraged to try the ritual behind it. Made from one of the requests I have every with an old friend from high school culture. Why? Because for most of were preparing a red lentil soup, beans and make a silky-smooth Weekends were busy with errands, the cassoulet. I immediately fell chickpeas, potatoes, eggs, onions, time I go to visit my family is for dinner, and she picked a cozy the trip I was miserably cold, could a French lentil salad, and then I puréed soup, served warm with activities and household chores in love with the salty duck confit, and what in Yiddish was called the lentil soup which made the neighborhood spot called Mioposto. not feel my fingers or my toes, and was surprised to see that we were finely chopped hard boiled eggs so even then the meals were pleasantly chewy saucisson à l’ail, flanken (one of the cheapest long dark winters so much more While we were perusing the menu, just wished for it to be over. going to bake lentil cookies. I had and fresh cilantro. Wow, what an oftentimes quick and easy. Beans and braised pork shoulder all bound cuts of meat from olden days, bearable. A common companion of my friend immediately asked the always enjoyed pulses — everything amazing breakfast — that meal did make an appearance on Sunday together in the rich and creamy but which today you know as the lentil soup is lovage (“Liebstoeckl”), waiter if we could start with the If there was one fond memory from velvety hummus to rich split would hold us over for most of the mornings for breakfast, but these white bean stew with a crispy premium beef short rib), this meal an herb that is said to aid digestion. “ceci.” “Start with the what?” I said. from this dark, frigid interlude it soup to traditionally stewed day. The texture and the flavors are were typically the sweet and smoky breadcrumb and butter topping. served four of us for the rest of the My mom grew it in our garden and “Ceci” is Italian for chickpeas, and came twice a day as we stopped lentils. But I’d never tried pulses still in my memory; it’s something canned “Pork-n-Beans” from Never before had I reveled in such weekend for about 10 dollars. it was used as garnish for other the appetizer was a small cast iron for our lunch and dinner in small, in baked goods, let alone baked that I have now made so many whatever brand was on sale. Being a combination of flavors, textures, pulse dishes as well as the annual serving of them, oven-roasted. inexpensive restaurants. While them myself. Naturally, they were times for my own child. the picky eater that I was, I always and aromas. Born out of the fact that we did Christmas goose. When they emerged from the still in Germany, “Erbsensuppe” amazing. They were spiced with opted for plain scrambled eggs. not cook during the Sabbath (as waiter’s hand, I was stunned to see appeared on almost every menu , nutmeg, and allspice, This was my first real exposure in Jewish tradition it is considered these little heads glistening, rubbed — a rich, warming, rustic split pea and flavored with dried fruits. Having gone to culinary school right to pulses but certainly not my work), this stew would start on in and flecked with sea salt. soup offered up with big chunks We folded rolled oats into the after high school, I was exposed to last. Having experienced the Friday before the Sabbath began, of sausage or more often tender dough before baking it into tender, a multitude of pulses in a variety sumptuousness of this stew, I with my mother letting me layer the For so long, my experience with smoked ham hock. With lots flavorful, cookie perfection. of preparations, but because of my immediately began to seek out raw meat, eggs, potatoes, onions, chickpeas, which clearly hadn’t of crusty and butter the limited exposure as a child (and others that I had glimpsed but not and dried chickpeas into a big pot. been given the proper treatment, feeling slowly crept back into my Those cookies have since led me some remaining food-neophobic really tried to understand. Split pea She would season it, bring it up to was of a dry, starchy consistency extremities, my core thawed, and to explore other unconventional tendencies) I tried to avoid eating soup, flageolet stew, and hummus a simmer and then put it into a very that left you thirsty. With these ceci, my spirits lifted. applications for pulses wherever them as much as possible. It wasn’t of all varieties were now something low oven to cook for 12 or more though, I remember being amazed possible. I often flash fry puffed until I graduated school and started that I no longer avoided but rather hours. All night, and the following by their incredible texture of both As we moved into Holland the lentils for a rich, crispy garnish for working in the New York City embraced. These earthy flavors and day, the house smelled comforting crunchy and creamy, their warmth Erbsensuppe — my new go-to seafood dishes. I dredge hotel scene that I discovered the creamy textures became a favorite and safe. and freshness, right out of the oven, winter restorative — was known by a in chickpea flour before lightly luxurious dish known as cassoulet. of mine. and the aromatic mix of and different name: “Snert.” Imagine the frying them for a crunchy texture. I My very first experience with the My brother and I were always full fresh sage. This dish really redefined delight of a chilly, 14-year-old boy add bean purées to tighten sauces dish was at a now-defunct French of excitement, sleeping as though chickpeas for me, and I have been in ordering a steaming bowl of ”Snert!” without adding gluten. If I hadn’t restaurant named La Colombe the next day would be Hanukkah or love with them ever since. It still brings a smile to my face and I had those cookies, I might have Christmas and the best present we can feel my spirits lift once again. never considered how universal could possibly get would be to dig pulses can be in the kitchen. into the Cholent.

6 ONPULSE ONPULSE 7 Product News WHOLE GREEN FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: Slightly sweeter in flavor than yellow peas. These take longer to cook than the split version, but provide a heartier flavor. Variety Guide SPLIT GREEN FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: All pulses are , and all seeds have a remarkable Whole green peas that have been de-hulled and construction in which they are essentially food that split for easier and quicker cooking, and a softer exists to get a plant started. Packed with , texture. They are slightly sweeter in flavor than yellow peas. vitamins, iron, protein, phytochemicals, antioxidants, and other nutrients, pulses are far from humble pods; they are nutritional powerhouses. With all that inherent goodness WHOLE YELLOW comes yet more exciting attributes: a wide, vibrant variety FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: Milder and sometimes nuttier than whole green peas. What Makes to choose from and a world of culinary opportunities. PEAS FIELD DRY

WHOLE GREEN SPLIT YELLOW FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: a Pulse a Pulse More spherical than most lentils, with a noticeably Whole yellow peas that have been de-hulled and earthy flavor, whole green lentils retain their shape split for easier and quicker cooking, and a softer when cooked, making them great for dishes texture. — and why you should care desiring texture.

By Sophie Egan SPLIT GREEN (APPEAR YELLOW) NAVY FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: A subgroup of , a pulse is the dry, Whole green lentils that have been de-hulled and With an earthy flavor and a slight nutty undertone, split. These lentils cook quickly and break down, these beans can break down quickly, making them making them great as thickeners in soups and ideal for soups, purées, and baked bean dishes. edible of a plant from the Leguminosae family. , and as a smooth purée. Pulses include lentils, dry field peas, WHOLE RED BLACK chickpeas, and dry beans. FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: With a mild, earthy flavor, these lentils hold their Popular in Mexican, Latin American, and Spanish shape when cooked resulting in a toothy texture. cuisine. Black beans have a stronger flavor than other beans, similar to mushrooms.

SPLIT RED (APPEAR ORANGE) CRANBERRY LENTILS FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: Whole red lentils that have been de-hulled and split. These are the most popular beans in , and Sweeter and nutty in flavor, these lentils cook quickly similar in color, size, and mild flavor to Pinto beans. and break down, making them great as thickeners in soups and curries, and as a smooth purée.

FRENCH GREEN KIDNEY FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: Popular in French cuisines, with a robust, peppery A firm, medium-sized bean with dark red skin and flavor. cream-colored flesh. Its full-bodied flavor makes

BEANS it particularly popular in preparations such as chili and red beans and rice.

BLACK BELUGA PINTO FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: Smaller, round, and shiny, these lentils appear The pinto is a small, mildly-earthy bean with reddish- similar to beluga caviar. Once cooked, they are brown streaks on a pale pink background. Spanish for deeply flavorful. “painted bean,” they are often used in a Spanish and Mexican dishes including refried beans and chili con carne.

KABULI CANNELLINI FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: Larger and beige, this is the variety most common Cannellini beans are elongated white Italian kidney in the U.S. and preferred in Middle Eastern and beans. With a slightly nutty taste and mild earthiness, Mediterranean cooking — notably in hummus, they have a relatively thin skin and tender, creamy flesh. falafel, and Spanish soups and stews. This lends perfectly to salad and soup applications.

DESI GREAT NORTHERN FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: FLAVOR | CULINARY LOW-DOWN | WHAT EVERY CHEF SHOULD KNOW: CHICKPEAS Sources Dark with yellow flesh, these chickpeas are often Smaller than cannellinis, Great Northerns look like white used in Indian cooking to make a type of . They baby lima beans. Their texture can be slightly grainy, “The Oxford Companion to Food” by Alan Davidson; Berkeley Wellness website; are also served whole, or milled as flour and used in with a nutty, dense flavor. These beans are great in Healthy Eating website; “Nutritional Benefits of Pulses” and “Varieties of Pulses” from FAO website (). salads, soups, stews, ragouts, and purées.

8 ONPULSE ONPULSE 9 Product News

Global Inspirations Blue Zones: By Almir Da Fonseca The Pulse of Some of my favorite preparations and flavor profiles Even with such a large variety of pulses Longevity, Health, available, we often overlook that each 1. CHINESE 5. MOROCCAN one has its own unique flavor profile, Flavored with soy sauce, ginger, garlic, Flavored with , preserved lemons, scallions, sesame oil, oyster sauce, and , dried fruits, honey, or mint aroma, texture, and cooking time. Each fermented soy beans pulse has its own fingerprint and brings and Deliciousness subtle differences to the plate. 6. FRENCH 2. JAPANESE Flavored with butter, herbs de , By Bill Briwa Flavored with soy sauce, ginger, scallion, , mustard, shallots, garlic, or wine The versatility of pulses has allowed sesame oil, fermented soybeans, dashi, and sea vegetables chefs and cooks to experiment and 7. LATIN create dishes with all flavor profiles and Flavored with , coriander, lime, cuisine styles for centuries, with foods 3. MEXICAN peppers, dried beef, pork, cilantro, Flavored with lime, cilantro, chiles, cumin, tomatoes, and other spices Hidden in plain sight around the globe, researchers have discovered that offer great textures and mouth feel, roasted ingredients, tomatoes, and chocolate distinct communities where the local population lives measurably smells and aromas, temperatures from 8. ITALIAN longer lives than most, without suffering the ravages of aging. These hot to cold, colorful combinations, and of 4. MEDITERRANEAN Flavored with olive oil, basil, garlic, course spicy dishes. Flavored with olive oil, olives, tomatoes, Parmesan, balsamic vinegar, lemon, wine, wellness anomalies, highlighted on the world map, have become garlic, saffron, herbs, wine, citrus, and nuts or known as the Blue Zones — currently there are five. Pulses hit on all of the five main tastes, from sour dishes and pulse salads with vinegar-based dressings, to salty dishes 1. , Italy years, and for good reason. Vegetables flavored with salt pork, salt cod, or Demographers found the largest are healthy, colorful, linked to the region anchovies to dishes cooked with bitter concentration of male centenarians in and the season, inexpensive, varied in greens like escarole. Some cuisines and the world in small mountain villages. flavor and texture, sustainable, ethical, 1 Curried Lentil, Chickpea & Kale Salad (photo from the blog The Roasted Root) cultures even offer sweet pulse dishes, and highly versatile. It’s encouraging now and some global desserts have come 2 Steamed Mussels with Sweet Chili Lentils 2. The Islands of Okinawa, Japan to see longevity and health research that into the conversation lately, driven by the With a low incidence of cancer, heart supports this blossoming trend. 3 Southwestern Stuffed Sweet Potatoes with Black Beans globalization and fusion of international disease, and dementia, women here culinary trends. Eastern influence brings 4 Chicken Sausage Cassoulet (photo from the blog Dennis the Prescott) are the longest living on the planet. In the Blue Zones, pulses are filling amazing umami-full dishes with pulses the void as animal protein moves to a and mushrooms and even fermented 3. Loma Linda, California supporting role for the sake of health, bean dishes in Asian cookery. Researchers studied a community longevity, and economics. All manner 1 2 of Seventh-day Adventists and of lentils, chickpeas, peas, and beans Pulses have a major place in global discovered that they live an extra make regular appearances on Blue Zone cookery, easily combining with flavoring 10 years compared to the average menus offering an inexpensive source ingredients commonly used within American nationals. of nutrient-dense protein that is readily certain cuisines. Pulses can be used available, versatile, and satisfying. in a variety of ways, with several 4. Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica characteristics, applied in many forms, A Latin American hot spot for In the Sardinian mountain village Blue resulting in unique flavors and textures longevity where residents are twice Zone you might find a humble from cuisine to cuisine (see list at right). as likely to reach 90 compared to soup, akin to . There is a Americans, who, on average, live to be clever recipe for just such a soup built Practicing cookery of pulses within global 78.8 years old. around a pot of cooked chickpeas. cuisines while using basic flavor principles Imagine taking a heavy pot and layering and characteristics will help cooks to 5. Icaria, a selection of seasonal vegetables, cut recognize and experience the tastes, 3 4 One in three lives into their nineties into bite sized pieces, along with cooked flavors, textures, and authenticity of with very low incidence of the diseases chickpeas and their seasoned cooking classic international dishes. that plague modern Americans. liquid. Anoint all with good olive oil, cover the pot and bake this until tender Among the lifestyle habits shared by all and aromatic, 30 to 45 minutes. This of the Blue Zones is a vegetable-centric soup couldn’t be easier to prepare and diet. Vegetable-centric dining has been welcomes a broad variety of seasonal gaining traction in the U.S. for the last 20 vegetables as they become available.

Broccoli + Lentil Salad 10 ONPULSE ONPULSE 11 Product News The Blue Zones Meet the Growers By Rebecca Peizer

When renowned Chef Alice Waters lentils. Corey realizes that he has chosen carefully, the sandy soils in which they first started using produce grown by to grow crops that have had significance grow, and the moisture content they Chino Farm in the San Dieguito Valley, and longevity across the world of cuisine, retain from the rain. As a food lover, it was due to her insistence that the as his lentils make their way to overseas Cindy is devoted to understanding how ingredients she used at Chez Panisse markets of , , and Bangladesh chefs can use her products better. As were the product of someone’s hard where he says they are prized for their a grower she is particularly interested work and that all good ingredients have beautiful and uniform appearance. And, in ongoing research being done on the a story to tell of their origins. She was while lentils and peas are great rotation functionality of pulses in different product Loma Linda, the first American chef to publicize crops for Corey, he would like to see his forms, whether whole, puréed, flour, or California her love for her favorite growers and farm increase pulse production to more fractioned. One of her favorite ways to tell their stories to her customers. The than 25% of his total output to keep prepare beans is a butterscotch and rum culinary movement that she pioneered up with the demand and ever-growing boudino, a traditional caramel custard in Sardinia, saw an outpouring of other famous importance of plant-based diets found which she includes a layer of her white Nicoya Italy Peninsula, chefs who would follow suit and publicly on menus today. He sees the future of kidney beans. acclaim the philosophies of farmers his crops being higher in protein and Costa Rica The Islands Icaria, of Okinawa, nationwide. For the Chino family, that having the versatility to be used in more Among a growing list of celebrity chefs Greece Japan philosophy was and still is “dedication to innovative ways. For example, lentils as celebrating growers is Mehmet Gürs, a the land and passionate commitment to meat substitutes in classic dishes such as pioneering chef in Turkey who uses lentils good food.” But, how many chefs really his wife’s famous lentil lasagna, or lentil grown in Thrace. According to Gürs and travel to the source of those stories, and flour used in baked . his New Anatolian Kitchen Manifest: how many growers produce their crops “No Farmer, No Food, No Future,” the with the chef in mind? Cindy Brown, a sixth-generation pulse consideration that Chef Gürs gives to his It makes good use of the chickpea’s beans spread across the bread along grower for Chippewa Valley Beans in lentil grower, who may only sell him one cooking liquid, which should never be with cheese, avocados, and pork or Corey Loessin, a pulse grower who runs Wisconsin, says that her 3,000-acre or two sacks of her lentils depending on discarded as it makes a full-flavored and chicken before being dipped wholly Aidra Farms, a homestead-turned 7,000 family farm, which began in 1858 and the quality of the harvest, is to showcase rich stock substitute. and completely in a brothy chipotle acre farm in Saskatchewan, Canada will has been growing and processing beans the terroir in which her lentils grow, as sauce. Pulses on a may sound tell you that growing lentils and peas since 1969, is always looking to “do beans well as her story about why she grows When exploring Costa Rican cooking, uncommon, but search it out and give it is not always easy but it’s well worth better.” Where other pulse growers might her lentils in the first place. you will quickly discover a foundational a try. It may be messy, but it is certainly it when he considers the future these need arid conditions for optimal results, dietary truth known as the ”three sisters,” delicious. pulses have in the North American food her dark red kidney beans increase their Almost 40 years after Chez Panisse a symbiotic approach to growing world as a high source of protein and depth of color and retain moisture better opened its doors, the grower, as much vegetables. Historically gardens were Blue Zones strategies can certainly be fiber. Corey explains how lentils and peas when intermittent rain falls right before as the chef, plays an important role in grown with corn planted between pinto, exported across borders. Tapenade, a need cool and dry conditions to grow. harvest. Once considered a specialty today’s menus. Pulse growers are driving navy, or other beans, so that the beans staple from the south of France, is a dip The climate, less rocky soil conditions, crop, sales grew with the rise of salad many current culinary trends, helping to could climb the corn stalks like a trellis. of capers and olives. It is great on cold latitude, and air quality of Corey’s Farm, bars and Tex–Mex cuisine, which boomed achieve more sustainable food practices, The beans, which fix vital nitrogen into fish and grilled vegetables or spread on all play a role in creating the perfect in the 1970s. Cindy describes her beans and even introducing us to new dishes, the soil, would grow synergistically warm, crusty, grilled bread. What you terroir for his crops to thrive. This is as “beautiful” due to their unbroken skins, flavors, and cuisines. with the corn — a notoriously heavy- may not know is that for some the flavor why Canada is the world’s which is a result of dedicated special feeder that might otherwise deplete is just too intense. To set this right, try leading producer of machinery used to harvest the crop the soil. And squash plants were placed adding a coarse purée of cooked lentils to strategically between the rows so that downplay its “enthusiasm.” Just right! And the large leaves would keep weeds by happy coincidence this move boosts Corey Loessin down and maintain moisture in the nutrient density. It is a win-win nutritional Aidra Farms Saskatchewan, Canada soil. From a nutritional standpoint, strategy that has no downside. beans, corn and squash seeds (the three sisters) represented ready, quality protein. Even today, pulses define Latin American cooking, appearing daily on menus from breakfast to dinner. It’s not unusual to find a Torta Ahogada (a Mexican “drowned” sandwich) from a street vendor in Mexico, with cooked

Wild Rice and Lentils with Flaked Salmon 12 ONPULSE ONPULSE 13 Food News 1

1 Beef, Lentil + Sausage Burger

2 Oatmeal + Lentil Cups

3 Tri-Pulse Salad

4 Green Lentil Power Smoothie

5 Lentil Trail Mix Squares

2 3 4 5 Grab & Go Beverages, Catering, Takeout, Snacking By Rebecca Peizer

Snacking is considered a habit for potentially longer shelf life. Pulse crunchy chips are easy and affordable many in today’s busy world, but it has can also be used in the production of that can be enjoyed at all times also become one of the latest trends sweet and savory snacks. The flour of the day. A great characteristic of in food service. Our fast-paced society of various pulses can be mixed with certain pulses is that they are able to be demands that our eating patterns all purpose wheat flour for a more cooked a number of ways that change change to accommodate our schedules. nutritious yet just as tasty biscotti, with their texture. Depending on the cooking Look at the cashier counter at your corn flour for more nutrient-dense technique, crispy and crunchy textures favorite coffee shop, corner market, tortilla chip, or even with whole wheat are easily achievable. Cooked lentils, for or grocery store and you will find an flour in crackers. instance, can be crisped in a pan with array of easy-to-consume, grab-and- a little oil to create popped lentils that, go offerings that range from Granola and snack bars made of nuts, once cooled, can be seasoned with a bars and pastries to and seeds, dried fruits, and chocolate are variety of seasoned salts that make them smoothies. Typically, these options are also very popular grab-and-go items. just as addictive as any bag of chips. not as healthy as one may desire, but Lentils can make wonderful additions to Soaked chickpeas can be fried in olive oil they are easy to consume at any time a snack bar. When cooked and roasted, before being seasoned with BBQ spice of day, and that is why there is such a they have the similar pleasing texture to become a great snack. Ultimately, the high demand for them. as nuts and seeds, plus they add an added nutrient density of these snacks earthy flavor reminiscent of cocoa or satisfies both hunger and the need for In a food world increasingly interested chocolate. And because of this, pulses cravable texture at the same time. They in a plant-based diet, it seems natural have also found their way into healthier provide high satiety, especially when to phase in more healthful choices and dessert snacks, especially those that compared to traditional snacks. start avoiding the usual suspects of the contain chocolate. Take the Lentil, snacking world. Protein-rich and high Avocado, and Peanut Butter Brownie The market for using pulses in the grab- in fiber, pulses are a natural fit for this (recipe on page 30) for instance. It and-go sector of the food industry is wide category of dining because they offer has the same fudgy consistency of the open and offers tremendous profitability. more nutrients than almost all the other traditional brownie, but without the If operators are willing to look outside ingredients in these snacks combined. butter or eggs, and with much more the box of conventional, typical snacks protein. This concept can be taken a and beverages and look towards pulses It is becoming more and more popular step further and the same ingredients to provide both versatility and nutrition, to see protein-rich beverages at can be put into a blender with a the business opportunity is enormous. the checkout stand at your local banana, some dates, and your favorite Consumers want interesting and healthy supermarket. Pulse flours and proteins juice for a delicious and nutritious food throughout the day. And according of all kinds, or simply puréed pulses, beverage. to most trend reports in the food industry, can be used in smoothies the same snacking as a meal option is not going way that whey protein is used. This Aside from satisfying hunger, the away any time soon — if ever. makes these beverages available to a particular thing about most snacks wider market of consumers who may that makes them so cravable is their shy away from dairy. It also offers a texture. Bags of crispy and

14 ONPULSE ONPULSE 15 1 2 3 Food News

The Protein Flip By David Kamen 1 Pulse 4 5 2 Lentil Bolognese Today’s health news is a cacophony of sound bites coming from all angles telling us to increase 3 Lentil Falafel (recipe on page 31) protein intake but avoid animal protein, and telling us that is not as bad as we thought. 4 Lentil & Beet Burger (recipe on page 30) Except for animal fat. Aren’t all proteins the same? 5 Roasted Vegetables with Black Beans & Lentils

As consumers become more savvy, they it. In other countries and cultures, animal dishes or be kept neutral to fit a variety will begin to understand — as many protein is more often used as a less central of applications. When thinking about people in food service already do — that ingredient, garnish or seasoning. Often due flavoring pulses, keep in mind that this there absolutely are differences between to cost or scarce availability, animal protein process can happen long before cooking types of proteins, , , portions may be limited, but can still be begins. Because pulses are used from and even calories. This new thinking the focal point of the dish. their dry state, flavor can be added during suggests that the numbers of calories the initial soaking stage. Dry chickpeas that come from each nutrient group are Imagine instead of a 8-, 10-, or 12-ounce rib and beans will absorb their weight in less important than the quality of the eye or strip steak on the plate, you were water during soaking. Try seasoning the calories from that group. Animal proteins presented with a rich savory ragout made water or creating a light vegetable stock are often associated with saturated fats of kabuli chickpeas, caramelized onions, instead of using plain water. The soaking a familiar animal protein may be what Aqua Faba are already denatured and and do not offer any kind of dietary and roasted mushrooms with three or liquid should be cold so prepare it in the dishes need to make them more As Fast Casual 2.0 matures, reinvented coagulated during the canning process, fiber. Plant proteins are less likely to be four thin slices of grilled marinated strip, advance and cool properly before soaking interesting to meat lovers. sandwich menus are making their way there is no thickening ability. However, associated with saturated fats, and often or perhaps skirt or hanger steak fanned beans. Be wary when using salt or acidic across the industry. Sandwich spreads this can be overcome by combining with do contribute dietary fiber, which is just over the top. This modification offers all of ingredients during soaking as they will As with the steak example, there are a based on pulse purées are an innovative starches like tapioca, or other proteins like as important a nutrient. the same savory grilled and caramelized interfere with the way pulses absorb number of pulse preparations that can be way to introduce interesting flavors. Fat- pea powder. flavors, and even adds some interest in liquid and inhibit the cooking process. used in the center of the plate to reduce based spreads like mayonnaise tend to This is not to say that animal proteins are the form of other textures, while reducing the amount of meat. Lentil ragouts, mask flavors. Pulse spreads themselves Swapping pulses for animal protein is not to be avoided. Rather in the climate of saturated fat and increasing fiber. This is a Think about the color and flavor of the purées, and even flavorful lentil cakes can be full of flavor and enhance the just a health and wellness issue. Using changing menus, creating new concepts, great example of the Protein Flip. meat being replaced when selecting a make smaller amounts of animal protein identity of the other ingredients. more pulses can provide large cost and responding to consumer requests pulse substitute. Whole yellow peas and seem more alive and impactful. Use these savings to any operation. In an earlier for more interesting regional dishes with Pulses are great plant-based protein large white broad beans make a great preparations to elevate the meat off of Consider adding a hummus bar to your example, substituting falafel (chickpeas bigger and bolder flavors, there is an alternatives, and are often described as alternative to chicken. Whole red lentils the plate; placing them closer to the eye menu, leveraging pulse purées in a myriad at $0.60/lb) for chicken breasts ($1.30/ opportunity to consider a Protein Flip. flavor sponges (see page 20) because or red kidney beans can stand in very will make them seem larger. Because you of flavors. A single flat bread recipe can lb) can save nearly $0.15 per portion. they absorb flavors from other ingredients nicely for pork. are using less, the meat that you are using be “multitasked” to create a variety of While perhaps not impressive on one The Protein Flip is very simply the that they are cooked with. This allows can be seasoned more boldly. complimentary accompaniments. Imagine portion, the $15.00 savings on 100 switching of some or all of the animal them to be customized to specific One easy way to make the change is to instead of giving away bread and butter, portions is significant. protein for plant protein in a dish. While keep the dishes familiar. Offerings such Salads provide another platform for selling flat breads and spreads. there really is no substitute for a big steak as bean bourguignon, vegetable paella the Protein Flip. Pulses are very easily on the plate, the idea is to begin to rethink or chickpea jambalaya are great cross- substituted for chicken in a number of If you are using canned pulses, don’t let the plate away from a traditional center-of- Swapping pulses for over dishes that appeal to those looking salad preparations. Try chickpea falafel in the liquid go to waste. This liquid, known the-plate-protein. for animal protein. Identifying global lieu of tenders or shrimp on as Aqua Faba, is very high in protein and animal protein is not just a dishes that traditionally feature pulses a Caesar salad. In egg salad, as much as can be whipped up into a thick, stable American menus are often characterized and adjusting their flavors or styles offers 25% of the egg yolks can be substituted foam. Many chefs with vegan clienteles by the center of the plate, typically a large health and wellness issue. another approach. Dishes from India and for white bean purée reducing calories are using this foam in lieu of egg white piece of animal protein (pork chop, steak, northern Africa are often built on pulses and saturated fat. In creamy salad meringue to create macaroons, to lighten chicken breast, salmon fillet, etc.) and Using more pulses can due to their abundance in the regions. dressings, bean purée can be substituted batters, and to create the base for some the rest of the plate is then built around Here perhaps, adding small amounts of for eggs and a portion of fat. puddings. Because the proteins in the Click here to learn more on the Protein Flip. provide large cost savings to any operation.

16 ONPULSE ONPULSE 17 Food News Pulse Bar Salsa, whose platform is chopped tomatoes Chickpeas, a fast-casual Mediterranean and onions, can have hundreds of variations franchise based in Davis, California, uses BUILD YOUR TOP IT MAKE IT UNIQUE with the addition of beans, mango, corn, chickpeas across their menu in salads, 1 PULSE BOWL 2 3 and cheese. And nachos, a huge food , and most notoriously, their trend according to Flavor & the Menu, is a hummus platters. They use chickpea Chickpeas Lentil Hummus platform itself just waiting for traditional hummus as a platform and offer six salsas and exotic ingredients to top each different menu options for toppings, Cooked Whole Beans Lentils Chickpea Hummus Pairings and tortilla chip. For soup, the platform is the such as mushrooms, onions, beans, and broth to which any number of noodles, grilled meat to eat with their hummus, all meats, and vegetables can be added. For at different price points. As a franchise, sauce, and its hundreds of chunky, owner-operators may have the ability to Platforms garden vegetable, cheese, and vodka offer regional and seasonal flavors that 1 By Rebecca Peizer variations, the platform is the ground suit the needs of their local customers. For tomatoes. And for granola bars, it is the instance, late winter in California is Meyer oats, nuts, or seeds to which chocolates, lemon and blood orange season, which Consumers love the ability to make choices about the dried fruits, and even trendy chili peppers are natural and fresh flavors that could be are added. It is possible to create hundreds offered for a limited time. Salads can also foods they eat. Take, for instance, the sheer number of of variations of the same idea using these take on a seasonal or LTO approach by different types of salsa, canned soups, tomato sauces, or platforms, but it is also possible to use the offering chickpeas paired with tomatoes, 2 3 platforms to create completely different grilled , and cucumbers in granola bars that line the shelves of supermarkets. There dishes altogether. summer, and roasted onions and winter squash during the fall. Or, like the pumpkin Popped are so many choices that it is almost baffling. Yet, what Diced International Herbs Lentils Pulses, in their many forms, are perfect spice served in coffee houses Vegetables Spice Blends makes each of these products so accessible, in terms Cooked to use as a platform in any food service across the nation, perhaps a “Fall Harvest Grains Bacon operation. They are simple and affordable, Hummus” that uses chickpea purée as a of creating as many varieties as there are, is the fact Dressings Breads and they are a recognizable building block platform to which roasted pumpkin purée + that each of them are made from a very basic formula Flavored for menu development in any operation. is also added. Cheeses Olive Oils that can be replicated, added to, and subtracted from Pulses are also sponges for the flavors a Certain food service operations, such as to create new and exciting creations. This base formula cook pairs with them. They can be cooked Chipotle Mexican Grill or MOD , run or individual ingredient is what we call a platform. It can in a flavorful liquid, or blended with herb on a Build Your Own (BYO) model, where such as spice blends from around the like chickpea fries to salads, hummus, purées, spice mixtures, and flavorful oils. a platform, such as the wrap and world, flavored oils, , and breads sandwiches, wraps, soups, and entrees. be used in restaurant and foodservice operations very Cooked pulses can also be puréed for meat at Chipotle, or the pizza crust or for dipping. The hummus bar has had successfully to efficiently create excitement and diversity. hummus, soup, sauces, desserts, and salad greens at MOD, allows patrons to success at restaurants such as Hummus Another food trend that is good news burgers. Pulses are a great source of customize their food with any number of Kitchen in New York and Rotisserie Ema in for the Pulse Platform, according to protein, but also have a longer shelf life in fillings or toppings to make it their own. Chicago where customers choose from an the National Restaurant Association, is the refrigerator than most animal proteins. This has been a successful model even array of toppings for their hummus. The “Authentic Ethnic Cuisine.” These days, They can also be frozen for future use once on salad bars at Whole Foods, where end cap would consist of both split pea consumers are travelling more often cooked. Examples of pulses as platforms salad greens are the platform to which and black bean soups with mix-ins such and to more exotic places than ever can be seen in some of the nation’s dozens of toppings and dressings can as croutons, ham, bacon, sour cream, before and they are much more aware of leading restaurant concepts including be mixed in to fit the customer’s desires herbs, and spices. Lastly there could be authenticity when they dine at restaurants Mediterranean, Indian, or even Southwestern and help increase cravability. Pulses are crunchy pulses for snacking on their own back home. An example of a pulse- and African Cuisines. a natural platform for this type of BYO or for use as a topping for texture such forward cuisine is Indian food, which is operation because they can be cooked as popped lentils, fried chickpeas, and well known for its use of lentils. In San Excitement can be generated for new ahead for days of usage, are easy to store, wasabi style peas. Francisco’s Bay area, there is a small chain preparations by showcasing the bounty and customers can choose to include the of authentic restaurants known for their of the seasons through Limited Time flavors and textures they wish and make This delivery of pulses also fits very well lentil preparations, called Udupi Palace. Offerings (LTOs). Pulses are not seasonal an exciting meal. into an LTO strategy because ingredients They use lentils to make their famous per se, but the ingredients they are cooked in the Pulse Bar can change with the , fried lentil doughnuts called with offer many opportunities to focus Imagine a BYO Bar that has an array of seasons and include specialty flavors and , rice and lentil patties called , and on the local growing season or cutting- cooked whole beans, chickpeas, and ingredients that are only available locally, spicy lentil soup called (which edge food trends. According to SCORES lentils, as well as an array of puréed may fit a certain time of year, or may follow they serve also as a sauce). A very busy — which tracks LTOs around the world preparations like chickpea and lentil the latest food trends. Another top trend, restaurant like Udupi Palace wouldn’t need and is run by the Datassential, a leading hummuses as well as pea and bean soups. according to the trend tracking magazine to cook lentils every day, but rather once marketing research company — consumers A Pulse Bar is an approachable BYO Flavor & the Menu, is “Chickpeas Go or twice a week since lentils are resilient, make buying choices based on appeal, option that lets customers take their time Chic.” They attribute consumer interest in stable, and do not change in texture or uniqueness, value, draw, the frequency they and build the perfect meal, be it a salad, chickpeas to the rise in popularity of the flavor when stored properly. might purchase an item, and their intent snack, or entree. Whole cooked beans, plant-based diet, the blossoming love affair to buy something for a particular reason. lentils, and chickpeas could be served with Eastern Mediterranean, Middle Eastern With so many cuisines around the world — LTOs give businesses the opportunity to along one side of the bar with mix-ins and Indian cuisines, and forward-thinking Indian, North African, Mediterranean, Latin showcase their platforms in new, seasonal, such as diced vegetables, cooked grains, menu development of bowl or salad American, and more — built around pulses or innovative ways that appeal to the time dressings, breads, cheeses, and greens. concepts and bar bites. Mediterranean as a primary ingredient, using pulses as a of the year or the latest trend. They may On the other side of the bar would be food is known for its wide use of chickpeas, base is a great strategy. bring back customers seeking what unique the hummus section with an array of therefore a large batch of this cooked pulse preparations will be offered next. different pulse purées that have mix-ins can be used in anything from bar snacks

Lentil Bolognese (recipe page 30) 18 ONPULSE ONPULSE 19 Food News

LIGHT TEXTURE

What is a Flavor Sponge? Hummus Puréed Cannellini Beans Chicken Stock Fish Stock By Sarah Linkenheil Olive Oil Lemon Juice Garlic Fresh Herbs Agrumato From the Stone Age to the Middle Ages, Without a seedcoat, split red lentils flavors of the product develop slower and even today, the preparation of pulses break down to a purée consistency when and with greater depth. RICH Stewed Lentils Bean Salad DELICATE has not changed drastically. Traditional cooked over a short amount of time. FLAVOR FLAVOR pulses — lentils, dried peas, chickpeas, Texture plays a very important role in how Want to bring the natural flavor of the Bacon Mirepoix Whole Grain Mustard and dried beans — were mostly eaten as we perceive flavor. pulses into the foreground? Pulses can be Game Stock Honey Butter Parmesan porridge and oftentimes combined with slow cooked in plain cooking liquids until grains such as barley and wheat. While By examining cuisines that heavily rely on almost tender and then finished with a Roasted Chickpeas Popped Lentils the result was nutritious and filling, it pulses, we can determine if it is the pulse flavored seasoning towards the end of the often wasn’t very flavorful. Animal protein or the cooking method that allows for cooking process. This will ensure they are FULL was an expensive and rare addition to maximum flavor absorption. fully cooked and they will still combine TEXTURE peoples’ diet; more exotic ingredients had with any beautiful flavors added at the yet to be introduced to common food Many cuisines around the world use end of cooking. Chef Hemant Mathur of culture. Today, it seems hard to imagine pulses as the center of their plates, relying Tulsi restaurant enjoys cooking lentils indulging in a nutritious bowl of porridge on their flavor absorbing ability to create with a seasoning of ginger, garlic paste, without the exciting addition of produce, a delicious meal. Famous examples tomato purée, salt, chili powder, butter, little or no animal protein, or can be satisfying chickpea crepes with cilantro, Tasting Glossary spices, or other condiments widely include Brazilian feijoada cooked with and cream. He says they are so rich and shaped into hamburger patties that can green chili, and ginger, and serves them available on the market today. black beans and smoky pork, Indian delicious that it is one of the most popular be seared like meat for a blast of umami. as a quick and simple breakfast item. 1. NUTTY dal spiked with , or Middle Eastern items in his restaurant. This method also Classic noisette flavors commonly found in All pulses, whether lentils, chickpeas, falafel rich with herbs and garlic. Recipes works for cold preparations. The pulses Pulses can be simmered in a mildly While there are endless options for using , pecans, and toasted butter can also be recreated by carefully roasting pulses. beans, or peas, have their own distinct from these regions offer a bounty of are cooked and tossed in vinaigrette flavored liquid and then puréed and pulses in savory applications, consider flavor. Depending on how it is being flavor combinations for all kinds of or fresh herbs and spices when warm. finished with a variety of additions. using pulse purées and flours for desserts processed, whether whole or split, the pulses to absorb a vast variety of flavors The warm temperature helps the flavors Hummus has found a large following and baking purposes. Queijadas de Feijao 2. MEATY flavor can be heightened or muted. The and ingredients. Baking, stewing, and evolve and combine with the earthy notes in recent years as an excellent dip and from Portugal are a popular sweet pastry Deep, rich, and sometimes deliciously fatty, these flavors can be created with a Maillard-like flavor and texture attributes of various simmering are the most effective cooking in the pulses. After being cooled, they can spread. Consider cooking chickpeas and made with a filling of white bean purée, searing of pulse products. types of beans and peas range from methods for pulses to absorb flavor. then be served as a standalone salad or flavoring hummus afterwards with curry, butter, eggs, , ground , and meaty, bold, and nutty (such as the red They act like a sponge absorbing the as an addition to a leafy greens salad. garlic, lime juice, and onions. Or turn a vanilla. These especially moist and sweet kidney bean) to velvety and creamy cooking liquid. This can be as simple as simple hummus into a delicious dip by tarts are a delightful treat. Using lentils or 3. VELVETY Soft, light, airy, yet rich enough to create full (found across the entire family of white flavored stocks or even water with basic Chef Pam Brown, author and visiting adding basil chiffonade, diced cucumber, black beans for brownies and chickpeas mouthfeel. Velvety textures are easy to create beans). The larger the bean, the better aromatics like carrot, , celery, thyme, instructor at the CIA, says “I really like crumbled feta, and red onions. Smooth for a fall spiced apple cake are wonderful with pulse purées, especially with the addition flavor retention it has when cooked with garlic, and bay leaves. When using store cooking lentils until they’re soft, then purées have an incredible ability to offer dessert applications using pulses. The of a touch of olive oil. other ingredients. bought stocks refrain from using those combining them with vegetables — great depth of flavor and texture. smooth texture of purées opens the pulse base up for any type of flavor absorption. 4. EARTHY In Turkey, crispy baked chickpeas These are moist, organic, musty, soil-rich flavors are known as leblebi. From the oven, Using pulse flours as sauce and soup often found in root vegetables, old-world wines, and of course, pulses. 1 2 3 4 seasonings such as za’atar, Parmesan, thickeners, for baking, or as binders for garlic, malt vinegar powder, or flavored vegetable fritters, offers an amazing oils can all be added for intense flavor alternative to the traditional binders while 5. MUTED enhancements. packing dishes with deliciousness and These are soft, delicate, or ‘quiet’ tastes, often put to good use as the foundation for a dish. healthy plant-based protein. Chefs Mary Muted flavors can play essential supporting roles Pulses can also be ground into flours Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger of Border in a recipe, letting key ingredients shine. to provide an exciting option to infuse Grill in Los Angeles create vegetable preparations with additional flavor. fritters with chickpea flour that’s packed 6. CREAMY with flavors of coriander, cumin, red Rich in flavor and lightly clingy in texture, a Chickpea flour is being used for a variety pepper flakes, turmeric, and cayenne. creamy presence in any dish implies notes from of staple preparations in parts of the fattier end of the dairy spectrum. and Europe. Panisse is a delicious snack In addition to adding extra flavor, Lentils are naturally earthy and robust. with high sodium content; pulses tend especially onion and mushrooms but also from the South of France. It is made from common seasonings often paired with 7. SMOKY Most of the flavor of lentils is found in the to stay firm during the cooking process ingredients like broccoli — and pressing chickpea flour cooked just like polenta, pulses help in other ways: Cumin, fennel, Hardwood, fiery, carbonic, and oftentimes seedcoat — therefore, whole lentils will when exposed to too much salt or too the mixture into a loaf pan and baking cooled, cut into a variety of shapes and ginger, asafoetida, kombu, and savory all equated to the flavor of bacon. Smoky flavors perfectly compliment the meaty and earthy tend to have more flavor than split red much acid. The trick is to add salt to the it.” A meatloaf in this fashion can contain then fried. Italians prepare , an add flavor and all help with digestion. tastes common to most pulses. lentils because the red lentil seedcoat is liquid just before the pulses are done and unleavened often served as an removed. Whole lentils therefore may be let them cook just a bit more in order accompaniment to salads or sometimes The amazing ability of pulses to meld with able to carry stronger, bolder flavors such to become fully cooked and properly 1 Lentil Pasta Puttanesca just on its own. It can be used to create infinite tastes and textures makes them a 8. UMAMI Deeply savory and “mouth-filling,” famously as curry pastes, vinegar, mustard, or chili seasoned at the same time. Using a 2 Chickpea Shakshuka thin, nutty, sweet wraps which then truly versatile component. Spices, herbs, difficult to describe, umami is the fifth flavor. This flakes. Split lentils may be more suitable clay pot as cooking vessel is preferable can then be filled with pumpkin purée, acid, sweetness— they all work perfectly elusive taste is surprisingly easy to create when for more delicate flavor additions like to a metal pot. The heat in a clay pot 3 Pork + Lentil Carnitas avocado, , and quinoa. Blogger with the earthy and savory nature of pulses. cooking pulses given the proteins they contain. coconut milk, coriander, and cinnamon. transfers at a slower rate and lets the 4 White Bean Artichoke Dip Mallika Basu prepares “pudla,” light and

20 ONPULSE ONPULSE 21 Food News

Transformation Transformation Kit Recipes By ZachAry Minot Popped Lentils YIELDS 1 CUP

Pulses are one of the most versatile ingredients INGREDIENTS Canola oil 2 oz. in the pantry — with the right techniques and the Whole green lentils 1 cup cooked, drained right equipment, you can transform them into an

infinite selection of textures and flavors. PREPARATION Heat a skillet on medium high heat with the oil and add the lentils. Swirl the pan around and toss the lentils in the oil. Season with salt and pepper if desired.

1 2 3 Click here to view recipe video. CRISPING PURÉEING THICKENING

Popping lentils Blenders Lighter Impact Crispy Roasted Lentils Traditionally, lentils are prepared If you look beyond your average Gram for gram, pulses don’t have YIELDS 1 CUP tenderly, slow-cooked in liquid. But food processor, you can achieve the same thickening abilities once they’re cooked, they can be truly incredible purées, infinitely as most starches, but that very INGREDIENTS Split red lentils 1 cup fried in hot oil providing a popped, silkier than anything you ate property can provide cooks with an crispy pulse perfect for adding growing up. Use a cavitation incredibly elegant option: adding

crunch and crispness to any dish. blender — like a Vitamix — to pulse purées to soups and sauces PREPARATION Soak lentils for 1 hour. produce a light, perfectly smooth for great mouthfeel, flavor, and Drain water, then roast at 350˚F for 20 to 25 Crispy whole chickpeas purée. An added bonus: These light thickening. A smooth VitaMix- minutes. Cool. U.S. diners are most familiar blenders are incredibly capable of blended pulse purée can delicately with chickpeas in the form of emulsifying large quantities of oil tighten a sauce, while split lentils Click here to view recipe video. hummus. However, cooked whole into the pulse purée. Beyond adding and split peas can provide heartier chickpeas can be roasted in flavor, additional oil can improve thickening for soups. the oven at a high temperature, mouthfeel and moisture perception. producing a crisp exterior with a Hydrocolloid creamy, tender interior. Paco Jet Likewise, chickpea flour has been Lentil Purée For the ultimate in smooth purées, used for decades as a healthy, YIELDS 3-4 CUPS Dredging with chickpea flour professional cooks employ the flavorful, hydrocolloid (liquid INGREDIENTS Often cooks dredge their fried Paco Jet. This machine requires thickener). Split red or whole green 1 ½ cups foods with flour, but chickpea you to freeze the product and then lentils, rinsed Water 4 cups flour offers an equally crispy, more processes it into a purée smoother flavorful option for providing fried than any other technique is PREPARATION foods with a crispy crunch. capable of producing. Bring lentils and water to a boil. Cover and simmer for 7 to 9 minutes for split red lentils, or 20 to 25 minutes for whole green lentils. Drain, reserving the liquid. Add ¼ cup of the lentil liquid back into the lentils. Purée in a blender or food processor until smooth.

Click here to view recipe video.

Sriracha Honey Roasted Chickpeas 22 ONPULSE ONPULSE 23 Photo: Sweet Potato + Lentil Breakfast Sauté Resource News Pulse FAQs By ZachAry Minot 9 What temp should I use to cook pulses? 1 After sorting through your pulses, start Do I need to sort dry pulses? them in cold water and gently heat them to 180º-190ºF (80º-85ºC). You want the Yes, it’s important to sort through dry pulses water hot enough to cook but not turbulent before cooking. Using the largest sheet tray you enough to damage the seed cases. For the can find, lay them out in a single layer and scan most even heat application, cook the pulses through them to identify any small pebbles or covered in an oven. foreign objects. Once sorted, give them a rinse. 2 To soak or not to soak? While lentils are quick-cooking pulses, you can shorten the cooking times of beans, whole peas, and chickpeas by soaking them before 8 cooking. Medium sized pulses can absorb over half of their total weight How Long Should I Cook Pulses For? in just two to three hours of soaking. They can absorb a full 100% of In a phrase — until they’re done. Lentils are a quick-cooking their weight over 12 hours of soaking. pulse option, ready in between 5 and 20 minutes depending on your variety, whereas other pulses can take up to an hour per 1 cup (250ml) BEANS Whole Split Whole Split Whole or two to fully cook depending on any number of variables of dry pulses Peas Peas Lentils Lentils Chickpeas (pulse type, water content, volume, and more). Rinse Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes per 1 cup (250ml) of BEANS Whole Split Whole Split Whole dry or soaked pulses Soak Yes Yes No No No Yes Peas Peas Lentils Lentils Chickpeas 1-1.5 hr 1-1.5 hr 45 min 15-20 min 5-7 min 1.5-2 hr Yield 2.5 cups 2.5 cups 2 cups 2.5 cups 2 cups 2.5 cups Cooking time

Pressure cooking 8-12 min 5-7 min No No No 12-15 min Time (at 15 PSI)

Cooking Liquid 2.5-3 cups 2.5-3 cups 2 cups 2.5-3 cups 2 cups 2.5-3 cups 3 Salt or no salt? Adding salt to the soaking water will actually speed up cooking time, though adding salt to the cooking water can slow the 7 cooking time slightly. Contrary to popular belief, salt will not Pulses are shelf stable, right? cause the seed cases to crack. A dilution of 1% works great for Can I order them in large amounts? pre-soaking (about 10 g/liter or 2 tsp/quart) and helps boost Dry pulses can be stored in an airtight flavor. Additionally, cooking pulses in stock or other rich liquids container, in a cool, dry location for up boosts flavor as well. 5 to one year. After a year, the cooking Is plain tap water ok for cooking pulses? time required may increase. They can Yes, tap water is the most common pulse cooking be ordered in large quantities from any liquid. If you have particularly hard water — likely with foodservice supplier. lots of calcium and/or magnesium — you may notice 4 your cooked pulses remain slightly firm after cooking. What about adding acidity? These minerals can interact with the outer shell and Vinegar, for example, helps firm up the seed coat and maintain firm them up. It’s not a common problem, but if this is its form. This is one reason it’s common to find preparations with an issue with your water source then the easy solution tomato (high in acidity) and molasses (contains slight acidity is to just cook with distilled water instead. 6 along with sugar and calcium that also help to firm up with seed Is there a particular type of vessel I coats in dishes desiring texture). Keep in mind that it’s better to should use? add acidity toward the end of the cooking process; this allows For the best results, use a wider rondeau to cook a the pulses to cook more quickly and evenly before the acidity, more spread out layer of pulses in liquid. This helps and remain stronger after cooking. mitigate against the pulses being crushed while cooking and maintain their shape.

24 ONPULSE ONPULSE 25 Resource News Health + Nutrition of Pulses Sustainability and By Delmonico 12% of Americans say Mathematics of Pulses they have come to see protein from (land, water, GHGs, price per serving, profit per serving) Flavor will always be the biggest factor plant sources as more healthful to consume potassium, and 12% are even driving Americans’ decisions about trying to consume prebiotics. Prebiotics By Sophie Egan food, but nutrition is important as are also known as oligosaccharides. well. According to the International 71% Food Information Council Foundation of Americans say Humans cannot digest these short (IFIC) Food and Health Survey, 64% protein from plant sources fibers. While we can’t digest them, Between the wizardry of their nitrogen-fixing properties of Americans say the healthfulness of is healthy, compared to: the healthy probiotic bacteria in our — which improves soil fertility and boosts the productivity of farmland — food impacts their buying decisions. digestive tracts can, and eating plenty Pulses have a well-deserved “health of prebiotics seems to be essential and their low strain on natural resources, these pockets of protein are halo” for Americans. Adding pulses to 42% to a healthy microbiota, the overall the best choice in the quest to healthfully and sustainably feed a growing a menu increases that menu’s nutrient of Americans say distribution of microorganisms in density, or the quantity of essential animal protein is healthy the body. Having a thriving, diverse global population. Consider pulses the all-stars on your menu when it vitamins and minerals per calorie. microbiota may reduce risk of allergies Compared to vegetables and grains, and other immune disorders, chronic comes to both environmental sustainability and cost-effectiveness. pulses are higher in protein, iron, and of lentils. All of these factors may diseases including heart disease, and zinc. Even whole grains, unrefined contribute to the blood cholesterol- may even impact metabolism and the grains with the bran and germ intact, lowering effects of pulses. reduce risk of obesity. Much research are lower in these nutrients than pulses. still needs to be done to figure out all Extremely Low Carbon Footprint Cost and Profit Analysis The recent IFIC Food and Health the ways that the microbiota affects Compared to meat, poultry, eggs, Survey reports that 68% of Americans health, but prebiotics are clearly a 2.3 kg of Greenhouse Gas (GHG) emissions per $1.11 is the average cost per pound ($0.07 per ounce) seafood and other animal proteins, are trying to eat more beans, nuts, critical part of the story. Pulses are kg of edible product of dry pulses to a foodservice establishment. Of pulses are lower in calories and and seeds. They recognize the health among the best sources of prebiotics. course, we do not eat the dry pulses as is — they saturated fat and are cholesterol- properties of plant proteins. Plant 1.6 kg of GHG emissions per 1000 calories of product require cooking. Through this process, the pulse will free, making them ideal for customers proteins are trending for many reasons: Unlike grains and grain products expand about 3.5 times its dry weight. kg of GHG emissions per 100 grams of protein concerned about their blood cholesterol sustainability, versatility, flavor, and including wheat and rye, pulses contain 2.0 from product and heart disease risk. At the same time, definitely nutrition. Americans are no gluten, making them a great option for 4.29 ounces is the average serving size of cooked pulses provide more fiber, potassium, specifically trying to consume more of customers with celiac disease or gluten pulses. To determine the amount of dry product and colorful phytochemicals than animal the nutrients that pulses provide: 64% intolerance. Pulses also have a lower Relatively Low Water Footprint we need to hit this mark, calculate the following proteins. Phytochemicals are naturally are trying to consume protein, 60% are glycemic index than grains, meaning equation: occurring substances in plants with trying to consume fiber, 48% are trying that when they are eaten, blood sugar 58.3 gallons of total water needed to produce each one- important health benefits for humans. rises slowly and doesn’t get as high, an ounce serving of dry beans. Of that, 9.1 gallons of Soaked Weight/Expansion Factor: green water (rainfall) and 3.2 gallons of blue water They give pulses their various colors; important benefit for those with diabetes 4.29 oz / 3.5 = 1.23 oz of dry pulses think the inky black of black beans, red or metabolic syndrome. (meaning groundwater, lakes, and rivers). streaks of cranberry beans, or green So, we need 1.23 ounces of dry pulses to eventually 44.5 gallons of total water — even less — needed to equate to a serving when soaked. produce each one-ounce serving of dry lentils. Of ½ CUP OF COOKED PULSES that, 7.9 of green water and 0.4 gallons of blue At $0.07 per ounce, the following equation will water. calculate the average cost of dry pulses per serving: 1 gram 8 grams of fat of fiber Cost per oz* Weight of serving: Extremely Low Land Use Per Ton of $0.07 x 1.23 = $0.09 per serving of dry pulses Protein Consumed

hectares per tonne of protein consumed 20 grams 8 grams <10 To calculate final portion cost, add in seasonings of of protein <1 hectare per million kilocalories consumed by individual recipe.

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115 calories Sources Food in Sight website Papanikolaou Y, Fulgoni VL. Bean consumption is associated with greater nutrient intake, reduced systolic blood pressure, lower body weight, and a smaller waist circumference in adults: results from the National Health and Nutrition Sources: Examination Survey 1999-2002. WRI and FAO websites J Am Coll Nutr 2008; 27:569–76. Click here to learn more on the sustainability of pulses. 26 ONPULSE ONPULSE 27 Resource News Recipe Generator By Rebecca Peizer

As chefs, how can we get consumers to have First comes the Product: The P. well with spices, and can absorb flavors is topped with crispy lentils instead of Understanding the products being such as sour lemon or , pungent poppy or sesame seeds for the pickled the same emotions we have for the products used in a menu item is key. Where garlic and onion, and unctuous proteins hummus and spiced lamb to rest on. we love? Perhaps you have a favorite seasonal does it come from? How is it grown such as lamb or shrimp. But they also can This creation has crispy and velvety or manufactured? What are the be soaked and then roasted to create textures, hot and cold elements, and recipe to share. Or maybe the distributor nutritional benefits? How does it a crispy garnish. Perhaps they can be follows the trend and seasons. change when prepared or cooked? featured both in purée form as well as in mentioned a price cut on a popular item that Perhaps there is a need for new crispy form for an exciting appetizer, as The last step in this process is the was too hard to pass up. Once the product is specific type of dish to fit into an they seem to be best used as a base for Execution: The E. This is where discipline already existing menu, whether it is other more complicated ingredients. is important. The chef will also be thinking in the chef’s hands, they must decide what an appetizer, entrée, or dessert. Chefs of the price point, the variety of other to do with it. This process is referred to as ponder many dishes at once and then The second part in this process is ingredients on the menu, making sure to define their favorite components from the Inspiration: The I. This is where avoid redundancy, the possibility of cross- the “PIE Theory of Menu Development.” each. Then they try to put them together the chef’s creativity shines through. utilization of the same ingredients in other into one cohesive plate. For the most What is the chef’s style of cooking? menu items, and perhaps how to upsell part, they follow a process. Good chefs What are the current trends in the food the dish to customers as an additional have an intuitive feel for what flavors industry? What are the traditional uses menu item, rather than a replacement for go well together, like sensory or tactile of the ingredients? There is also a lot other items on the menu. memory, that is informed by history and of camaraderie between chefs and tradition or by their own memories. The they tend to bounce their ideas off of To finish the red lentil and lamb appetizer, list of potential flavor combinations is one another, often sharing inspiration let’s say that everyone has evaluated this infinite, but people tend to gravitate they’ve had from previous employment. dish and has decided that it needs a salty towards the familiar. They may consult a A small batch of the dish in progress element, as well as something that also flavor bible, rely on childhood memories, may be prepared and the kitchen staff adds color and vibrancy to the final dish. or previous combinations that have will taste and evaluate the dish with A crumble of some hard Greek Myzithra worked, or do some research. Chefs feedback. At this point a chef will be cheese made from sheep and goat milk must also consider the texture of the thinking about plating. The plating adds saltiness and a white color contrast, ingredient. Can it stand on its own or defines the first impression of the while a single leaf each of and will it be a side dish or sauce? Chefs will dish to the staff and is intrinsic to the tarragon on each cracker would add then think of cooking techniques that are success of the dish in the end. color and fragrance to the earthy flavors suitable. Is there a technique that best of the lentils and the lamb. And here, we suits the product? Or is there a need for To continue with creating an appetizer have created a new menu item called a certain texture on the menu that isn’t with red lentils, we know that hummus Pickled Red Lentil Hummus and Grilled already represented. is very popular and trendy these days, Dukkah Spiced Lamb with Crispy Lentil as are pickled food and authentic spice Crackers and Cheese. In the case of creating a new menu item blends. Thinking a little outside the with pulses, let’s consider using split box, we could pickle the lentils in a A single dish can make or break the flow red lentils. Since these pulses are split, sweet and sour liquid, and then purée of a menu, as all dishes need to work well they break down in the cooking process them to create a “Pickled Hummus.” In with one another for the success of the much more easily than their whole consideration of the seasons, if it were menu as a whole. Following the steps counterparts, and have a mild flavor. spring, the chef could feature a perfectly of PIE Theory in order to create a new They are often used for soups in many grilled slice of Turkish dukkah-spiced and exciting dish will allow the chef to countries such as Morrocco, India, and lamb on top of the pickled hummus. maximize profits and generate excitement Greece. This means that they pair very Perhaps we make a spiced cracker that with new ingredients and preparations.

Coconut + Banana Lentil Bites 28 ONPULSE ONPULSE 29 Lentil Bolognese Lentil & Pilaf Lentil & Beet Burger Lentil Falafel Lentil & Avocado Brownie Split Red Lentil & Sweet YIELDS 6 SERVINGS YIELDS 8 SERVINGS YIELDS 6 SERVINGS YIELDS ABOUT 20 FALAFEL BALLS YIELDS ABOUT 12 SQUARES Potato Hummus INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS YIELDS ABOUT 2 QUARTS Canola oil 1½ oz. Canola oil ½ cup Canola oil ¼ cup Whole green lentils 1 cup Vanilla bean 1 each Pancetta or prosciutto, ¼ cup Onion, medium, 1 quart Yellow onion, small dice 1 cup Split red lentils 1 cup Brown sugar ½ cup INGREDIENTS minced peeled, thinly sliced Whole green lentils, cooked 16 oz. Onion, roughly chopped 2 cups Split red or whole green 4 cups Sweet potato, peeled, diced 1 cup Onion, medium, minced 1 each Onion, minced 1 cup Red beet, finely grated 1 cup Parsley, chopped ¾ cup lentil purée (recipe page 23) Garlic 4-6 each Celery stalk, with leaves, ½ cup Tomatoes, large, seeded 4 each Pearl barley, cooked 1 cup Cilantro, chopped ¾ cup Eggs, large 4 each Water to cover as needed minced Bulgur wheat, coarse 1 cup Cashews, toasted 1 cup Salt 2 tsp. Avocado, ripe 1 each Canola oil 2 oz. Carrot, small, minced ½ cup Whole green lentils, rinsed 1 cup Breadcrumbs 1 cup Dried hot red pepper ½ tsp. Unsweetened cocoa powder 1 cup paste ¼ cup Garlic cloves, minced 2 each Vegetable stock or water 4 cups Egg, large 1 each Garlic cloves 6–8 each Baking powder 1 tsp. Split red lentil purée 4 cups Beef or pork, ground ½ cup Salt 2 tsp. Tamari 1 Tbsp. Cumin 2 tsp. Baking soda ½ tsp. (recipe page 23) Italian sausage, sweet ½ cup Ground ½ tsp. Salt as needed All-purpose flour (if needed) ½ cup Salt ½ tsp. Lime, juice of 2 each Whole green lentils 1 cup Bay leaf 1 each Ground black pepper as needed Baking powder 2 tsp. Semi-sweet chocolate chips 1 cup Cilantro, minced 2 Tbsp. Dry red wine 4 oz. Thyme sprig 1 each Burger buns 6 each Canola oil, for frying as needed , chopped ¾ cup Salt as needed Chicken or beef stock 12 oz. Lemon, zest and juice 1 each Smoked Gouda, slices 6 each Peanut butter ¾ cup Ground black pepper as needed GARNISHES Milk 1 pint Greek yogurt, plain, 2 cups Powdered sugar as needed Cumin, ground 1 tsp. Tomato, diced 2 each Tomatoes, canned, 3 each stirred smooth PREPARATION Onion, diced 2 each drained, chopped Chili Urfa or Aleppo, ground ½ tsp. Preheat oven to 400°F. Green , diced 2 each PREPARATION Basil, chiffonade ¼ cup Parsley, chopped as needed PREPARATION Lettuce, shredded 1 head Simmer sweet potato and garlic cloves in water until Oregano, minced 1 tsp. Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat a skillet with 2 tablespoons of oil and add Lentil hummus as needed Salt as needed very tender. Drain, reserving liquid. PREPARATION onions. Sauté until golden brown and remove from Whole wheat pita as needed Ground black pepper as needed Grease a 9- by 11-inch baking pan. Heat half the oil in a 9- or 10-inch skillet. Add the pan. Cool. Combine all ingredients in the bowl of a food sliced onions to the skillet and cook over medium Split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds with the tip processor and process with enough potato cooking Add lentils, beet, barley, cashews, bread crumbs, of a knife. heat, stirring often until golden, about 10 minutes. PREPARATION liquid until a thick and smooth purée is achieved. PREPARATION egg, and tamari to the bowl of a food processor. Place the red split lentils in a large bowl and add In a saucepot, heat the oil, and sauté the pancetta Remove onions with a slotted spoon and set aside Pulse until mixture is crumbly and texture resembles Rub the beans into the sugar using your fingers until Adjust seasoning to taste and serve warm or chilled. enough cold water to cover them by at least 2 or prosciutto with the onion, celery, and carrots until to cool. . Do not purée smooth. Season to taste dispersed. inches; soak for 1 hour. Drain. the onions just begin to caramelize. Add the minced onions to the oil remaining in the skillet with salt and pepper. Place all ingredients besides the chocolate chips, and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until golden. Place the whole green lentils in a large bowl and walnuts, and the peanut butter into the food processor. Click here to view recipe video. Drain any excess fat, add the garlic, and cook until Portion into 6 patties. soak overnight. For a quick soak, place them in a Process until ingredients form a smooth . aromatic. Add the tomato pulp and cook, stirring, until thick and Heat an oven proof skillet with the remaining oil lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. pot covered by 2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Add in the chocolate chips and the walnuts and fold until just beginning to smoke. Add patties and Add the ground meat, the sausage, and the lentils to Remove from heat, drain and cool. into batter. the pan and gently cook over medium heat until the Add the bulgur and lentils to the skillet and continue brown on one side. Place the drained lentils and the onions in the bowl meats turn deep brown; drain any excess fat. stirring. Pour batter into greased pan. Flip patties over and continue cooking until heated of a food processor. Add the parsley, cilantro, salt, Add the wine to the skillet and deglaze until wine Add the heated stock, salt, pepper, bay leaf, and thyme. through and browned. If desired, add one slice of hot pepper, garlic, and cumin. Process until blended Swirl in peanut butter. Mix well and bring to a boil. has reduced by half, about 3 minutes. cheese to the top of each patty and heat in the oven but not puréed — it should look mealy. If needed, Bake for 35 to 45 minutes until top of the brownies until melted, about 1 minute. add a bit of flour. Stir in the stock and let it simmer slowly until only ¼ Cover and cook at a simmer over low heat until all the begin to crack. Cool. liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes. cup liquid remains. Place one patty topped with garnishes of choice on Sprinkle in the baking powder, and adjust seasoning Cut into 12 squares. Serve dusted with powdered sugar. Remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the remaining a toasted bun. to taste. Stir in the milk. Simmer, partially covered, for 1 hour. oil, lemon zest, and juice. Stir frequently to prevent the mixture from sticking. Form the mixture into balls about the size of Click here to view recipe video. Serve warm with a dollop of yogurt and garnish with walnuts, using water to wet hands so the balls Add the tomatoes. Cook, partially covered, at a very Click here to view recipe video. chili pepper, reserved onion strings, and parsley. don’t stick. slow simmer for another 25 minutes. Heat 3 inches of oil to 350°F in a deep pot or wok Add the basil and the oregano and continue to and fry 1 ball to test. If it falls apart, add a little cook until the sauce resembles a thick, meaty Click here to view recipe video. flour. Fry the balls until golden brown; drain on stew. Season with salt and pepper and serve with paper towels. preferred pasta. Serve with whole wheat pita, lentil hummus, and garnish with tomato, onion, lettuce and peppers. Click here to view recipe video.

Click here to view recipe video.

30 ONPULSE ONPULSE 31 LENTILS.ORG AND PULSES.ORG are promotional brands, working to increase the consumption of pulses (lentils, chickpeas, beans, and peas) across North America.

Lentils.org is funded by farmers and operated by Saskatchewan Pulse Growers, a not-for-profit association accountable to and funded by over 17,000 pulse crop farmers in Saskatchewan, Canada.

The Pulses brand is funded by farmers and industry members across the global pulse value chain, and operated by Pulse Canada, the USA Dry Pea and Lentil Council/American Pulse Association, and the Global Pulse Confederation.

lentils.org [email protected] ciaprochef.com/lentils/

pulses.org [email protected]