Kilnave, : an empty chapel The now roofless and weather-worn cross chapel was built c. 1400. The cross Islay is the comes from an southern earlier period, most of testifying that the Inner Kilnave has been a , sacred site for lying with centuries. its neighbour Some early Jura, to medieval crosses the west may be kindly of Kintyre described as and the rudimentary, from south of the hand of an apprentice or artisan worker. Mull. Others have been crafted by skilled masons. The Kilnave Cross is the latter. Formed from Known as the Queen, or Jewel of the Hebrides, local Torridonian flagstone, it stands Islay has a rich cultural and natural history. magnificently over 3 metres high with an Today it’s world-renowned for whisky, with 8 original span of just over 1 metre. Its finely- working distilleries producing distinctive peaty carved motif detail on one side and thinness of expressions of the usisge beatha, or water of life. just 6 ½ cm, point to skill and vulnerability.

Today Kilnave Chapel lies empty, th In the mid-12 century, Somerled, a abandoned to the elements, the warlord, fought and won control of the congregation long since gone. But then Kingdom of the Isles, leading to the the two sides of its cross continue to establishment of the Lordship of the witness to both Good Friday and Isles. Somerled’s successors from Clan Easter Day. The bare side MacDonald based the Lordship at symbolising abandonment and on Islay, and ruled across the suffering, and the finely carved side th Hebrides through to the 16 century. to, beauty, wonder and new life.

Five centuries earlier Islay formed a part This Easter, chapels and churches of the Kingdom of Dalriada, during which across are likewise without period Christianity was established across a congregation. They may take heart from Kilnave and the scriptures. the Hebrides. Today this legacy is seen in early-mid medieval crosses and an Psalm 137 recalls when many from abundance of mid-medieval chapel Jerusalem were led away into remains. One such site is at Kilnave, on captivity to Babylon, leaving behind the west side of , an RSPB their ruined temple. reserve. By the rivers of Babylon, there we The chapel and cross are accessed from a sat down and we wept when we remembered Zion. Psalm 137 minor road leading to Ardnave Point, and overlook Loch Gruinart. Kilnave’s name In adversity, they didn’t forget God means saint or holy church, Kil being and God didn’t forget them. They Gaelic for church and nave from the learnt to sing the Lord’s song in a Gaelic naomh, meaning saint or holy. foreign land. Pen and ink drawing of Kilnave cross from site visit, an early photograph and contemporary drawing. Today the surface of the cross is worn, with much detail lost.