PHOTO: MANAV PARHAWK MANAV PHOTO:
In love with Rajasthan Natalie Bannister makes like a Maharani to experience the royal romance of India's most colourful and flamboyant region PHOTO: BANNISTER NATALIE
holidaysforcouples.travel 59 e begin, and end, our journey in the gateway to India’s desert state, Rajasthan, and in typical Indian style, it’s chaotic and bursting at the seams.W With a seductive blend of grand palaces, imposing forts and shopping gems, long-time The 16th-century Amer Fort (also called visitors, including myself, can attest that there is Amber Fort) is the largest of the three, with a a beauty to the chaos. Rajasthan's capital city, commanding position high on a hill overlooking Jaipur, remains a treasure trove of old India. the city. This sprawling palace complex is a Known as the Pink City, thanks to its profusion perfect example of Mughal architecture – the of salmon-hued façades, Jaipur boasts some of mirrored Sheesh Mahal, in particular, is stunning the most photographed scenes in all of Rajasthan – and you can spend a few hours exploring here. – the blush tones of the Old City walls and You may begin to suffer from ‘fort fatigue’ (it's intricately-painted murals of palace doors a thing here in Jaipur), but don't be tempted to provide the backdrop to many a traveller’s skip the nearby Nahargarh Fort – with fewer Instagram posts. The streets are a riot of colour crowds than Amer, you can wander peacefully and character – peacocks still roam the gardens through the empty halls, hidden passageways of grand old palaces, monkeys scamper across and ornately-painted royal chambers. Nahargarh rooftops, and brightly-painted elephants lumber was the hunting residence of the Maharajas of down the streets on the outskirts of the city Jaipur (the name translates to Tiger Fort), but centre, absorbing the new while embracing the these days the only hunters are the tourists and old. It’s a feast for the senses. locals who come to capture the splendid views There’s plenty of luxury to be found here too, over the Pink City. The walls of the fort extend as Jaipur is home to some of India’s most splendid over the hills to the sprawling red-sandstone fort hotels, many of which are centuries-old palaces of Jaigarh, built in 1726 to protect the Amer Fort and havelis (traditional-style mansions) that have and its palace complex, completing this city's
Jaipur been converted into plush boutique retreats. impressive fortifications. If there’s one place in Rajasthan where you There are many palaces and temples in Jaipur, can feel like both an intrepid traveller and like but make sure you head to temple to the stars, royalty in the space of a single day, Jaipur is it! Jantar Mantar (jantarmantar.org). Built in the Join an organised walking tour, like a morning early 18th-century under the orders of Prince Jai or evening Heritage Walk with Vedic Walks Singh II, a passionate observer of the cosmos, it's (vedicwalks.com/jaipur-walking-tours) through now a UNESCO World Heritage site. This series the bazaars, artisan centres and historical sites in of architectural monuments, that were designed the quieter hours. Or take to the sky at sunrise or for observing and measuring the distances and sunset in a hot-air balloon with SkyWaltz Balloon positions of celestial objects, are remarkable. Safari (skywaltz.com) for a sensational bird’s eye Jantar Mantar can be combined with a tour of view of Jaipur's three forts which once formed a the City Palace, finishing with a glimpse of the vital defence ring for the city. extraordinary Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds. This exquisite hive of latticed windows, carved out of pink sandstone, is undeniably the city's most distinctive landmark. It was built in 1799 to enable the ladies of the royal household (who at the time strictly observed purdah) to be able to watch the processions and life of the streets below without being seen by the public. Now, you can take in the superb views and the mayhem of Sireh Deori Bazaar, one of Jaipur's many bustling bazaars, from the screened niches. Jaipur is a major centre for textiles, gems and block printing, and couples will find plenty of reasons to shop up a storm in the city's markets
60 rajasthan // india
and boutiques. Treasure hunters can explore tiny workshops and emporiums plying the trade of semi-precious stones and silver jewellery in Johari Bazaar. Or, go for gold at The Gem Palace (gempalace.com) where, even if you can’t afford to buy anything (few could!), you'll see some of the most exquisite jewels in all of India. Dining in Jaipur is a sophisticated affair, with a burgeoning social scene and a plethora of fine dining restaurants, the most popular of which is Bar Palladio (bar-palladio.com), set in the entry grounds of Narain Niwas Palace Hotel. Owned by Italian expat Barbara Miolini, and designed by Dutch designer Marie-Anne Oudejans, Bar Palladio is one of the most beautiful spaces for wining and dining in Rajasthan. The Italian menu is as delicious as the restaurant's exotic murals, peacock-blue and white palette, tented canopies and garden pavilions. It’s our favourite place to unwind here, cocktail in hand, after a hectic day of shopping and sightseeing. Jaipur offers plenty of ways to indulge in royal romance, whether it's a meal at 51 Shades of Pink or high tea at The Colonnade, both found at Sujan Rajmahal Palace Hotel (sujanluxury.com/ raj-mahal). Or, you could have cocktails out in the courtyard or by the pool, followed by a lovely candlelit dinner at regal Samode Haveli Hotel (samode.com/samodehaveli). Stop by Baradari, the newly-renovated contemporary restaurant within Jaipur’s City Palace, for al fresco dining in a courtyard that’s several centuries old (facebook. com/baradarijaipur). Or, take your seat at the opulent 1135 AD, set in the grounds of Amer Fort, which recreates centuries-old royal recipes Previous pages: Bar Palladio, Jaipur; Arches at that were once closely guarded by palace cooks. Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur. Opposite page: Hot-air The restaurant has an open-air courtyard, a ballooning over Amer Fort. This page: (Top) Hawa Mahal, formal dining room and a private dining space, the Palace of Winds. (Right) Sujan Rajmahal Palace Hotel. (Above) A royal chamber at Nahargarh Fort. Sheesh Mahal, which has been crafted entirely in
PHOTOS: BANNISTER NATALIE silver and gold to make you feel like royalty.
holidaysforcouples.travel 61 “Relish in the romance of dining at some of the city's best lakeside restaurants”
(Top left) Looking up at the sprawling City Palace. (Top right) Cow and birds at Gangaur Ghat. (Above) Views over Lake Pichola and the Taj Lake Palace Hotel at sunset. (Bottom right) Jagmandir Island Palace is situated on an island in Lake Pichola. (Bottom left) Romantic dining can be experienced at Ambrai at Amet Haveli, as close to the water's edge as you can get. PHOTO: FOTOLIA; NATALIE BANNISTER NATALIE FOTOLIA; PHOTO:
62 James Bond movie, Octopussy BondJames movie, 1983 for the setting the famously hotel was island (the on a private floating and decadence true and epitome –the of stage luxury centre Hotel takes world-renowned Taj Palace and Lake magnificent where the Pichola, Lake is of which biggest the lakes, home is East.’ three to The city of ‘Venice the upon India’s own bestowed very be only could that acharm and mansions, mighty palaces, marble stunning lush gardens, with life to bursts of beauty. Lakes The City intoxicating and romance regal its with enchants Udaipur the colonnaded Darikhana Restaurant or Picholi or Picholi Restaurant Darikhana colonnaded the include should either at apitstop Day-trippers hotel. aluxury 17th-century, as redeveloped the from palace historic an Palace, Island Jagmandir hills. Aravalli over the sinks sun the as watch hotel, and palace heritage agrand Palace, Niwas Shiv adjoining the at terrace on the drink sunset a with end visit your afternoon, the in precinct the here. you’re exploring If reside in-part still still family his and Maharaja the as palaces,’ one of India’s Palace, few ‘living City sprawling mahals and courtyards, chambers, private crafts. traditional and paintings miniature leather,spices, clothing, trinkets, selling stalls shops and with teeming alleyways serpentine the amongst lost get alittle or Maharaja. fit for a Maharani all lake’s on the shore, right set and many havelis, traditional hotels and enchanting) undeniably (however, more affordable the still uber-luxe to the from options, accommodation offers some incredible also Udaipur here itinerary. in on any slotted be easily can few days ideal an or air, road from access easy its to thanks and cities, of Rajasthan other pace frenetic the to contrast stark in escape, peaceful for aremarkably makes The city country. the in else anywhere ambience unlike an has Udaipur Take a boat ride over to the beautiful beautiful over the to Take ride aboat the through Spend wandering afew hours to don’t and on foot, afraid be city the Explore state, desert the jewel in A shimmering ). ).
of the the of
front of you as you dine. youfront dine. of you as in right Pichola of Lake waters on the twinkling Taj of Palace the lights Lake the with delights, of Rajasthani feast for in aromantic settle and rooftop, open-air the at permits, weather or, if restaurant the in tables window-seat of the ( Hotel Palace Jagat Niwas at lake, the found overlooking be can of which best of One the restaurants. of rooftop no shortage certainly Udaipur, is there Old over City. the views unparalleled with complete dinner, candlelit forspot aromantic ( Kothi Udai at restaurant rooftop the you can’t beat And wines. and cocktails cuisines, local and international up serving arestaurant and cabanas bar, private informal an Hotel, Pichola boasts of Lake terrace ( AD Upre by1559 Fort. Nearby, stylish Sajjangarh the and Jagmandir Palace, Lake Palace, City Ghat, of Gangaur views glorious with Pichola of Lake banks on set get, the water’sthe you can edge as Haveli ( Haveli Amet at Ambrai restaurants. lakeside city’s best avisit). worth well now and amuseum, old (it's resides noble Haveli Bagore Ki beautiful where Ghat the Gangaur is of which famous most ghats Old City of edges the the along aslow cruise with agolden in glow. bathed trip End the islands and hotels palaces, the with Pichola, of Lake waters melt sun the into the watching are Udaipur memories of –my favourite spectacular is sunset of day, the time and this at lake on the palpable is The peace leisure. your at around putt to freedom the and mountains, surrounding the and lake of the view scenic best the with rewarded (someboat –you'll own) hotels offer be their aprivate charter and masses tourist avoidto the you’re private, and best more intimate something counter. ticket But Palace for City the from tickets purchase you can and notable activity, Palace. City the near jetty the from depart Palace Island for Jagmandir Boats couples! choice of venues Bollywood for celebrity –it’sheld apopular here island apparently on the There’s epic Palace. wedding an City many been imposing the and Pichola Lake across you gaze while beer snack, or a for acold Kingfisher Bar If you are staying in the Old City area of area Old City the in staying you are If Relish in the romance of dining at some of the some at of the of dining romance the in Relish a is Pichola Lake around cruise A sunset 1559ad.com (steps that lead down to the water), the to down lead (steps the that jagatcollection.com amethaveliudaipur.com) udaikothi.com ), an open-air restaurant on the on the restaurant ), open-air an ). one You reserve can ) – it's the perfect ) –it's perfect the , is as close to to close as , is holidaysforcouples.travel 63 holidaysforcouples.travel rajasthan // india Udaipur 64 Jodhpur jostling for some space and attention. attention. for and some space jostling wallahs Chai sweets, Indian smoke, pungent incense spices, vegetable carts, with chaos, and smells ofcacophony sounds, –a India show of classic ariotous tackle You'll tribe. Banjara nomadic of the jewellery silver the and bangles colourful puppets, ( shoes leather embroidered and handmade traditional furniture, antique textiles, for exquisite hunt on the Go too. streets, back and laneways the through walk to interesting it'sand always Jodhpur. to character and aura lends aunique all of Rajasthan, all some hospitable most in of as the known are that apeople and of dance, folk music and culture Astrong bracelets. and gold anklets jiggling large with many jewelled, heavily saris, coloured kaleidescopic- in women and dressed turbans colourful men to in next street the down walk camels brightly-painted and Elephants tradition. home family). Jodhpur’s to royal still and hotel palace (now east agrand the to Bhawan of Umaid palace marble and sandstone majestic (one the and west of the to India's largest) Fort Mehrangarh gargantuan bythe dominated are temples havelis and palaces, Exquisite Rajput states. of the kingdoms formidable and one to fiercest of the testimony as stands still wall rampart city’s 10-kilometre fortress the tell. to impressive tale an with about it state, –it's aprincely of regality air an has Jodhpur forts, one of spectacular India's most Blue the City, name and it the give that houses indigo-painted famed its With beyond. Desert theThar routevisit en to of a worthy definitely is Jodhpur Rajasthan, in area this to unique are that attractions with city A busy, bustling There’s a bunch of great bazaars to explore, explore, to There’s bazaars of abunch great and culture in rich is that It's city adesert Jodha, byRao 15th-century the in Established juttis ), lacquerware, antiques, carpets, carpets, antiques, ), lacquerware, and holy cows all all holy cows and
cooling in the scorching heat of summer. scorching the in cooling and repellant, mosquito anatural is colour the as too, families bynon-Brahmin adopted been has blue the us, tell locals These days, there. dwelled system) caste Indian of (the the priests Brahmin that indicate to used houses pigment on these The blue in. it all take and slow to down chance the as it offers fine, just us suits here, which affair vehicle. It’s bylarge awalking-only accessed be cannot they narrow so are City, roads where the Old walled historic of the walls the along stretch homes of which indigo lanes of –twisting scenes fascinating museum ( fascinating fort's the explore to hill up head the and gorges…” mountain through walked he though It as is buildings. among of sense being loses it through sun… he who walks morning by the coloured and byTitans built giants… and fairies, work of angels, “The it was, that 1899, in Jodhpur when he visited of Mehrangarh wrote Kipling legend. and Rudyard size both in colossal is fort city, the the feet above 400 it stands, on which cliff out perpendicular of the Jodhpur. Chiselled in you stand Fort anywhere from Mehrangarh kids enjoying their favourite swim hole. swim favourite their enjoying kids where local you'll the stepwell, see often century 18th- an Toorji incredible Jhalara, Ka the to next The hotel right is It's absolutely spectacular! lit-up night. of views Fort at Mehrangarh finest one of the has bar, which rooftop open-air the pick –our is options dining of their any at spot a reserve still hotel, you can of the not aguest city. of the Even you’re if quarter north-eastern the hotel boutique in now abeautifully-restored ( explore. you as history and life of war, love, royal tales the hearing without same wouldn’t the just be experience the as guide, audio the hire to sure be And crowds. the all without explore really to space and light best the offering visit, to times ideal the are afternoon late and the morning in thing –first outstanding simply is fort out the Blue from over the City raasjodhpur.com Negotiate a ride from a local tuk-tuk alocal from aride Negotiate impregnable of the view the You escape cannot The Jodhpur’s fabled Blue is iconic most City RAAS at evening of an romance Take the in ), an 18th-century haveli that is is that haveli ), 18th-century an mehrangarh.org ). The view driver driver
rajasthan // india
“Jodhpur has an air of regality about it – a princely state with an impressive tale to tell”
Other page: (Bottom left) A courtyard in Mehrangarh Fort, one of India's largest forts. This page: (Above) Views of Jodhpur from Mehrangarh Fort. (Bottom right) Jodhpur is called the Blue City, due to its many indigo-painted houses. (Bottom centre) Darikhana Restaurant at the restored RAAS hotel. (Bottom left) A local musician entertains at Mehrangarh Fort. PHOTOS: NATALIE BANNISTER; FOTOLIA
holidaysforcouples.travel 65 Off the beaten track Desert daze Head to the Thar Desert to experience a few nights in a luxury tented camp. We stayed at chic and alluring Samsara Desert Camp & Resort (samsaradechu.com), an oasis hidden away in the dunes of Dechu, a two-hour drive out of Jodhpur, where you can take in the beauty of the desert without forsaking any level of luxury. Access to the camp is from the main resort – guests are taken on an exhilarating off-road adventure by an open-air jeep up and over the sand dunes. It really gets the heart racing for what’s waiting ahead at camp. Your 24 hours in Ranakpur the desert camp goes a little something like this: Hidden away in a village in the Pali district of hitch a ride on a regally-attired camel across the Rajasthan is the incredible 15th-century Jain dunes, watching women from the local villages temple of Ranakpur – one of India’s biggest and as they harvest the yellow mustard flowers and most important Jain temple complexes. Ranakpur cumin fields below, their colourful saris as much is more than just a convenient stop on the road a contrast to the desert as the surprisingly-green trip between Jodhpur and Udaipur – it’s about farm fields. Find a comfy seat afterward, G&T in halfway between the two cities by car – but is a hand, to toast the sunset, before settling in on jaw-droppingly exquisite example of the white plush bolster lounges by the outdoor fire to feast marble carving of the ancient Jain religious sect. on equally-fiery Rajasthani delights, all while folk With 29 halls and 84 idols, elaborate domes and singers and drummers and silver-laden dancers over a thousand intricately-carved pillars, the make magic under the stars. Sleep it all off in the temple is an architectural masterpiece. Each comfort of a luxuriously-appointed tent (it’s more pillar is unique – bar one. As the resident priest of a plush suite, really!), before waking up at explained to us, it was purposefully created dawn to hike up the windswept dunes. You might slightly skewed because only God can achieve just spot a train of camels passing by, the camel perfection. Be sure to stop for lunch (wood-fired bells jingling and their herdsmen singing folk pizza) in the courtyard of the charming little La songs. It’s an unforgettable experience. Pizzeria on the road out of the village – the best The desert camps of the Thar Desert are an Indian pizza you'll find this side of Italy. ideal pitstop en route to Jaisalmer, the Golden City, and the last outpost of Rajasthan. Jaisalmer This page: (Top is distinguished by its yellow sandstone buildings, right) A camel vibrant bazaars and sprawling hilltop fort, as well master in the Thar Desert. (Centre as the rolling sand dunes of Sam. right) The Jain temple of Ranakpur. (Bottom right) Carved pillars in Ranakpur. (Left) The luxury tents at Samsara Desert Camp & Resort. Other page: (Top) Poolside at the eco-friendly Savista Retreat. (Bottom right) Casual and chilled Inn Seventh Heaven in Pushkar. (Bottom left) A brightly-dressed local woman from the nomadic Banjara tribe in Pushkar.
66 rajasthan // india
Sacred Pushkar Set on the shores of one of India’s holiest lakes, Pushkar has a magnetism like nowhere else in India – a town where the holy versus the hedonistic. It’s a city where Hindu pilgrims, Sadhus (wandering holy men) and a devout A rural retreat Brahmin community coexist with spiritualists Escape the hustle and bustle of Jaipur and travel and backpackers in search of their own kind of about 45 minutes out of the city to spend a few nirvana. It's bohemian and laidback, and for nights at Savista Retreat (savista.com), a stunning intrepid couples who want to experience the real eco-retreat run by owners Bhanwar and Radhika, heart of sacred India, this is absolutely the place who are determined to share their ancestral to be, even if only for a few days. home with guests in a way that is anything but Pushkar Sarovar (Pushkar Lake) is considered your typical hotel experience. Set on 12-acres of the holiest lakes in all of India – the spot, it is cropland, the estate embraces sustainable living, said, where the god Brahma dropped a petal with a farm-to-fork ethos. Savista grows all of its from his lotus flower, falling from the universe own vegetables and grain, and everything is free and landing here to create these sacred waters. from chemical fertilisers and pesticides, making Locals and Sadhus gather on the ghats every the delicious three-course, home-cooked meals morning to bathe in the pure waters, while here a nightly treat to remember. sunset makes way for the evening aarti In keeping with the slow life, Savista’s guest (ceremonial songs and offerings) at the temples rooms are limited to only 14 in total – we had the that dot the lakeside. It really is such an entire place to ourselves for the week we stayed intoxicatingly beautiful scene. Find a table at any here (total bliss!). This allows the delightful hosts one of the simple rooftop restaurants that line to connect with every guest staying with them, the ghats here, and settle in for the magic. and tailor the experience to suit each individual. A constant soundtrack of chanting, drums, Guests can combine sightseeing with simple devotional songs and gongs competes only with pleasures, relaxing by the pool or lounging on the sounds of the local Indian cows that rule the one of the daybeds on the sprawling rooftop, with streets and alleyways. But it’s camels that rule views across the countryside – absolute the desert, and Pushkar has the most famous of perfection, especially at sunset! A range of them all, as the home to the annual Pushkar activities and cultural experiences can take you Camel Fair which takes place from October to from doing a block-print workshop one day in the November (dates change every year according nearby village of Bagru, to riding through the to the Hindu calendar month of Kartik). local villages by camel cart, or driving to the There are some great accommodation options hidden Chand Baori stepwell in the village of to choose from around Pushkar, but we always Abhaneri, or the incredible monkey temple of choose to stay at the super-chilled Inn Seventh Galtaji, an ancient Hindu pilgrimage site. Savista Heaven (inn-seventh-heaven.com), a hundred- is the perfect short break on the road to the holy year-old haveli which has been restored from city of Pushkar. disrepair and converted into a small hotel. I love its casual vibe and the many charming nooks for relaxing, and the rooftop restaurant here serves some of the best food in town (try the traditional Rajasthani thali – a platter of the region’s best dishes). You won’t get a cold beer to wash it down with (Pushkar is strictly a dry town with no alcohol served anywhere), but you can lose hours taking in the view out over the rooftops and temples. Simple perfection in sacred India. H PHOTOS: BANNISTER NATALIE
holidaysforcouples.travel 67