Trouble Shooter for the Sentry Controller

Ramp-Hold & Cone-Fire Version

Ramp-Hold Version

Relay Conversion Chart Sometimes a replacement relay will be of a different brand than the relay in your kiln. If so, transfer the wires from the old relay to the new one by the numbers on this chart. Ignore the terminal numbers printed on the relay bodies when referring to the numbers on this chart.

Wiring for Omron & Arowmat Relays 1 5 2 Wires from Controller 3 Static electricity can damage the controller. 4 6 Before handling the board, touch a grounded object. When shipping the controller for repairs, do not pack in bubble wrap or styro- 1 foam peanuts. These materials can build up a Wiring for P & B Relay 2 static charge. Instead, use anti-static foam or Disconnect 5 even newspaper. Power before removing Wires from Controller controller and 6 switch box. ©Paragon Industries, L.P. IM-205/8-04 3 4 - 1 2 - How to Remove the Controller Contents The controller is easy to remove from the switch box. First, Electrical Power Problems disconnect the power. Controller display does NOT turn on. No heat in kiln...... 4 (Certain components Controller display turns on. No heat in kiln...... 5 on the back of the con- Kiln fires too slowly or will not reach temperature...... 6 troller can be damaged Some elements do not fire...... 7 if they touch a Kiln heats unevenly...... 9 grounded object while Circuit breaker trips or circuit fuse blows...... 9 the kiln is plugged in.) Disconnect power before removing the board from the switch box. Kiln switch box high amperage fuse blows...... 9 Remove the 4 screws holding the controller Kiln switch box ½ amp fuses keep blowing...... 9 board faceplate to the switch box. Lift faceplate Wall outlet gets hot...... 10 out of box and let the board hang on the box with the back of the board facing you. Temperature, Display, and Keypad Problems Controller reads wrong temperature...... 10 How to Open the Kiln Switch Box The kiln overfires...... 11 UNPLUG the kiln or disconnect the power. The display shows erratic temperature readings...... 12 The display remains stuck...... 12 Top-Loading Kilns Display digits burned out (parts of display missing)...... 12 Does your kiln switch box have a support The “1” and/or the “4” key does not respond...... 13 arm on the side? If Ramp-Hold target temperature shown in Program Review is so, remove two lower than the temperature you programmed...... 13 screws from the top of the switch box. Noises The box is hinged The relay chatters or buzzes...... 13 on the bottom and will open forward. If The controller keeps beeping...... 13 your kiln does not have a support arm Error Messages on the side of the switch box, remove the screws BAdP / Bad Programming ...... 13 on each side of the switch box. Gently remove ETH / Electronics Too Hot...... 13 the box from the kiln. FAIL / Thermocouple Failure ...... 14 FTC / Failed to Cool...... 14 Front-Loading Kilns FTH / Failed to Heat...... 14 If the switch box is mounted to the side of FTL / Firing Too Long ...... 14 the kiln, remove the screws holding the box. HTdE / High Temperature Deviation ...... 15 Gently lift the box The “LId” Display...... 15 away from the kiln. LTdE / Low Temperature Deviation...... 15 When the con- PF, PF 2 or PF 3 during firing...... 15 troller is mounted PLOG Error Codes...... 16 under the kiln, re- TCdE / Uneven Multiple Zone Temperatures ...... 16 move the four screws TCR / Thermocouple Leads Reversed ...... 16 holding the controller in place. You can Electrical components under a small Trouble Shooting Tests front-loading kiln. gain access to the Wall Receptacle No-Load Test ...... 4 electrical components by removing a front, bot- Switch Box ½ Amp Fuse Ohmmeter Test...... 4 tom, or back panel. Controller Power Input Test...... 4 Element Ohmmeter Test ...... 5 Reinstalling a Switch Box Controller Power Output Test ...... 5 Door/Lid Switch Test ...... 6 After you have finished the kiln repair, ar- Receptacle Under Load Test ...... 6 range the switch box wires so that when the Ammeter Test ...... 7 switch box is placed against the kiln, no wire Element Glow Test ...... 7 touches an element connector or the kiln case. Scorched Paper Element Test ...... 8 These get hot enough to eventually burn off wire Kiln Switch Box High Amperage Fuse Test ...... 8 insulation. If your kiln includes wire nuts inside Kiln Switch Box ½ Amp Fuse Power Test...... 9 the switch box, tuck them out of the way. They Relay Coil Test ...... 10 must not contact the kiln case or element con- Thermocouple Test ...... 14 nectors. Relay 12 Volt Battery Test ...... 15 - 3 Has the kiln switch box Electrical Power ½ amp fuse blown? Switch Box ½ Amp Fuse Ohmmeter Test Problems The kiln’s ½ amp fuse is located in the switch box. Remove by pressing the fuse PROBLEM Controller display holder and turning counter-clockwise half does NOT turn on. a turn. Check the fuse by placing the probes of No heat in kiln. an ohmmeter on the Is the kiln connected to the power? ends of the fuse. If the Make sure the kiln is plugged in. If the kiln’s wall circuit in- ohmmeter reads less The fuse holder is on the side of most kiln switch cludes a power disconnect lever, make sure the lever is in the than an ohm (digital meter) or reads 0 ohms boxes. Even if the wire in the fuse looks okay, the on position. Does your kiln have an on-off switch? If so, make fuse could still be bad. Check with an ohmmeter. sure the switch is turned on. (analog meter), the fuse is okay. If the reading is OPEN (digital meter) or infinity/no needle movement (analog meter), the fuse is bad. Replacement fuse: AGC 1/2 A 250V AC If replacement kiln Use an ohmmeter to test the switch box fuse. switch box fuses keep blowing, see “Kiln switch box ½ amp fuses keep blowing,” page 9. Know the location of the circuit Be sure the power disconnect breaker panel. Label the breaker that switch is in the on position. If you do not have an ohmmeter, visually inspect the fuse. controls your kiln’s circuit. You will see a thin strand of unbroken wire in a good fuse. The wire usually appears broken in a burned fuse, similar to Has the circuit breaker tripped the broken filament in a lightbulb. or has a fuse blown? Is the controller receiving power? Test Is power reaching the wall receptacle? INPUTS with a voltmeter. Test with a voltmeter. Controller Power Wall Receptacle Input Test No-Load Test Make sure the kiln is un- This test should be performed plugged, and remove the 4 only by an experienced repair screws holding the controller person. Touch only the plastic board faceplate to the switch or rubber handle of the voltme- box. Lift faceplate out of box ter probes during this test. Do and let the board hang on the not remove the receptacle face- box with the back of the board plate. Place voltmeter probes in the two facing you. Plug the kiln back slotted, hot connections of the outlet. in. Touch voltmeter probes (in Follow the instructions that AC mode) to both power IN- Disconnect power before removing came with your voltmeter, setting it to the AC mode. Insert PUT connections. These are the board from the switch box. the voltmeter probes in the receptacle’s two slotted, hot con- the white and orange wires nections. You could also test the outlet with a voltage detec- plugged into the tor, which is an inexpensive instrument with a light that back of the board. blinks when placed near a live wire or outlet. You will find them in the bottom connector. Do not let the back of the board touch a grounded object. Make sure Testing for voltage at the controller’s INPUT terminals. the voltmeter is 4 - in the AC mode when placing the probes on INPUT connections. You should have 20 - 24 volts AC between the white PROBLEM Controller display and orange wires. turns on. No heat in kiln.  Controller Input Test Result: The controller is not getting power. Is the relay making its normal UNPLUG kiln. Check the clicking sound? switch box for disconnected Program the kiln to ramp to 500°F at a rate of 100°F per hour. wires between the cord, trans- Start the program. former, and controller. Also  Yes, the relay is clicking. check for any bare wires (where insulation has been damaged) Test the elements with an ohmmeter: touching the case. A short at a lid Element Ohmmeter Test switch or relay can cause a 0 voltage reading at the transformer. UNPLUG kiln/disconnect the power. Open the kiln’s The transformer. switch box. Make sure the wires connecting the relays to If wiring is okay, replace the the elements are secure. If connections are okay, check transformer. the elements with an ohmmeter as follows:  Controller Input Test Result: The controller is Touch the ohmme- getting 20 - 24 volts AC. ter leads to the two element connectors If you find 20 - 24 volts, correct voltage is reaching the board of each element. from the transformer. Since the board is not lighting up, it is probably defective. Try turning off the power for ten seconds. Where you place the The board may light up when you turn the power back on. If it leads should be free does not light up, return the controller for repair or replace- of corrosion. A ment. no-needle-movement reading on an  Controller Input Test Result: The controller is analog meter, or getting less than 20 volts AC. OPEN on a digital Did you recently re- meter, indicates a place the transformer? broken element. It may be wired for the If your elements are wrong voltage. (See wired in parallel, transformer diagrams The ohmmeter sends an electric current through temporarily discon- the element. If the element is broken, the meter on the cover.) Less nect the lead wires will show an OPEN circuit. than20voltsisnot from one end of the enough voltage to element you are testing. Hold element connector with pli- operate the controller. ers as you remove the screw. Be gentle to avoid breaking To find out the cause of the element. Do not disturb the screw holding the ele- low voltage, continue ment, only the one holding the lead wires. below: Testing for voltage with voltmeter probes at the Rule of thumb: If both lead wires of an element connect to The back of the board disconnected INPUT wires (the white wire and another element, the elements are wired in parallel. Discon- is still facing you. Un- orange wire). nect the lead wire(s) from one end of the element you are plug/disconnect the testing. kiln. Remove the bottom plug from the back of the board. If the elements check out okay, perform the “Relay 12 Volt Touch a voltmeter probe to the white wire and the other Battery Test,” page 15. probe to the orange wire. Plug the kiln back in.  No, the relay is not clicking. Result: Voltage at disconnected INPUT wires is less We know the controller is receiving voltage, because the dis- than 20: There are two possible reasons: 1) Low voltage at play is lit. But the voltage from the transformer may be too low the wall receptacle; 2) defective transformer. If wall recepta- to power the relays. Perform the “Controller Power Input cle voltage is correct, replace the transformer. Test,” page 4. If your controller passes the input test, per- Result: Voltage at disconnected INPUT wires is 20 - 24: form the “Controller Power Output Test”: The transformer is sending correct voltage to the controller. Controller Power Output Test Yet when the input wires were connected to the controller, Is the controller sending voltage to the relays? Test OUT- voltage was less than 20. This means the controller is drain- PUT with a voltmeter: ing the voltage and is defective. Return the controller for repair or replacement. the kiln/disconnect the power. Remove the 4 screws holding the controller board faceplate to the switch - 5 box. Lift faceplate out of box and let the board hang PROBLEM Kiln fires too slowly on the outside of the box or will not reach temperature. with the back of the board facing you. Then plug the Is your kiln model rated to fire hot kiln back in. Use the enough for the ware? Element Test option. (It The Sentry will not fire hotter than the maximum tempera- appears as in the ture rating of the kiln. That temperature is shown on the display. See “Options” in kiln’s electrical data plate and in the Sentry’s option. the Sentry operator’s (See “Options” in the Sentry operator’s manual.) manual.) The Element Test option sends power Does kiln voltage match circuit voltage? to the relays. Be sure your 240 volt kiln is not plugged into a 208 volt outlet, and vice versa. Put the voltmeter in DC Testing for voltage at the red and black output wires on the back of the Sentry. mode. (It must be in DC Have you programmed an extended hold mode when testing OUT- or Cone-Fire pre-heat? PUT voltage.) Touch probes to the OUTPUT connections (red wire and black wire) for at least 12 seconds. Check to see if you have programmed a long hold time that The red and black wires are in the plug on the back of prevents the kiln from firing hotter. the controller near the top. Cone-Fire mode: If you have inadvertently programmed a  Output Test Result: No voltage at OUTPUT wires. pre-heat, the kiln will not heat past 200°F until pre-heat has The controller is not sending power to the relays. Return the fired to completion. controller for repair or replacement. Check wall outlet voltage with a voltmeter  Output Test Result: 10 - 12 volts DC at OUTPUT during firing. wires. Low voltage can double firing time. Sometimes voltage is The controller is sending correct voltage to the relays. Un- correct, but drops when the kiln turns on. plug kiln/disconnect power. Remove the kiln switch box. Look for disconnected wires between the controller, relays, Receptacle Under Load Test and elements. Check the wiring diagram to be sure wires are Only an experienced repair connected to the correct terminals. Be sure connections are person should perform tight. If the wiring is okay, perform the “Relay 12 Volt Battery this test. Pull the kiln plug Test,” page 15. ¼” from the wall receptacle. Start the kiln. Place a Does the kiln voltmeter probe against have a door or each of the two “hot” lid switch? blades of the cord plug to If the controller is measure voltage. If voltage While the kiln is firing, measure voltage at sending correct voltage is low, try firing the kiln the cord plug. Be sure not to touch the metal part of the voltmeter probes. to the relays, test the during periods of low de- door or lid switch. mand when voltage is higher. Door/Lid Switch Testing a door switch with an ohmmeter: This Test type of switch mounts on top of the kiln. Do you see water dripping from the kiln First, UNPLUG or condensing on the case? kiln/disconnect power. Dripping water means the Remove door/lid switch ceramic greenware is wet. cover. Place ohmmeter This slows the kiln to a leadsacrossthetwo crawl, because extra en- switch terminals. Open ergy is needed to evaporate and close the door. You the water. The greenware should get no continu- should be bone dry before ity when lid/door is loading. open. Replace or adjust the switch if you get a Testing a door switch with an ohmmeter: This Vent the lid and fire no hot- With a mirror, you can detect moisture es- no continuity reading switch mounts inside the main switch box. ter than 200°F until mois- caping from the kiln. Keep the lid in the with the lid or door ture no longer fogs a mir- vented position until the mirror no longer fogs. closed (no-needle-movement on an analog ohmmeter, ror held near the top OPEN reading on a digital meter). peephole. (Be careful to 6 - avoid burns.) The mirror must be at room temperature, not Open the hot, so hold it near the peephole for only several seconds. kiln’s switch box. Place Did firing time suddenly, or gradually, the ammeter become longer? around ei-  Suddenly: ther of the This indicates a drop in voltage during peak demand, a bad two hot relay or a broken element. See page 5 to test elements; page wires com- 15 to test relays. ing into the switch box The ammeter attaches to only one cord set hot wire. Be Has anyone recently worked on your kiln? Some kilns with se- from the sure breaker is shut off before you remove the kiln’s switch ries-parallel elements will continue to fire even if they are cord set. box. DO NOT TOUCH WIRES after you turn the breaker on. mis-wired. But they will not fire as hot as they should. If you suspect this, unplug the kiln, open the kiln’s switch box, and Leave the switch box open, but be careful not to touch the visually inspect the wiring. Compare it to the wiring diagram electrical components during step 4. Electrical parts in- for your kiln. side the switch box carry live voltage when the power is turned on.  Gradually: Turn on the breaker. Start the kiln. Use the Element Test This is usually caused by worn elements. Keep a record of fir- option. (It appears as in the display. See “Options” ing times. When elements begin to wear, firing time will in the Sentry operator’s manual.) The ammeter will show gradually increase. the total amperage that the kiln is drawing. Does your kiln have infinite control Kilns with more than one relay: By checking the amperage of each individual relay, you can find burned out elements switches? or a bad relay. Clamp the ammeter around one wire that If so, turn the switches to a higher setting. goes from the relay to the element(s).  Does firing time vary depending on time Result: Amperage is a little below normal. of day or season? Consider replacing elements. The voltage could also be low. This indicates low voltage during peak demand.  Result: Amperage is way below normal. The problem is most likely a broken element or relay, or ele- Is the kiln on its own circuit, or does it ments of the wrong resistance. See next section, “Some ele- share the circuit with other appliances? ments do not fire.” The kiln should be on its own circuit. Other appliances on the circuit can slow down the firing. PROBLEM Some elements do Is the circuit wire gauge heavy enough for not fire. the kiln’s amperage? See catalog specifications for your kiln, or the instruction What is the kiln model? Which element manual. Use copper wire, not aluminum. Consult a qualified is not firing? electrician. See your wiring diagram. Perform either the Element Glow Test or the Scorched Paper Test: How far away is the breaker panel from the kiln? Element Glow Test If it is over 50 feet, the wire gauge should be one gauge The kiln should be empty. Close the lid or door. heavier than the catalog recommendation. In Ramp-Hold, fire at a rate of 9999 to 500°F/260°C. While the kiln is firing, study your kiln’s wiring diagram. It will Check kiln amperage with an ammeter. show which elements are wired to each relay. Ammeter Test At around 400°F/204°C, carefully lift the lid or open the The ammeter measures the amps that the kiln draws. If an el- door slightly until you can see the glowing elements. ement is burned out or a relay is broken, the kiln will draw Use a protective glove. Keep your face well away from the fir- less amperage. See the electrical data plate for your kiln’s ing chamber. Do not reach inside the chamber. DO NOT rated amperage. Before checking amps, check voltage under TOUCH THE ELEMENTS WITH ANYTHING. Lift the load, page 6. (If voltage is low, amperage will be low too.) lid for only a moment, then close. Only a qualified repair person or electrician should perform The center elements in most 7, 8, 10 and 12 sided kilns will this test. not glow brightly, but there should be a faint redness. It is easier to see the elements with room lights turned off. Some Shut off circuit breaker for the kiln’s wall receptacle. kilns take 40 minutes before the elements glow red.

- 7 Scorched Paper Element Test discolored element connectors Cut paper into 1” strips. and wire terminals. They will appear dark, greenish-tur- Turn the kiln on for a minute or two. quoise and sometimes white. UNPLUG the kiln or disconnect the power. Cut off over-heated wire terminals and crimp on new termi- Open the lid. Place a paper strip on an element for three nals. Remove the damaged ele- The indent on the crimping tool goes to five seconds. If the paper darkens, the element is ment connector and inspect on the side opposite the seam of the working. connector. Test the crimp by pulling the element end. If the element on the wire firmly. Repeat for each element. is damaged, replace the element. Otherwise sand the ele- (This test is courtesy of Carl E. Bosard, kiln technician.) ment end and install a new element connector. Replace any wire in the switch box that is corroded or has brittle insulation. Does the kiln have a high amperage fuse block? Elements wired in series to the same relay: If one element is burned out, none of the Kiln Switch Box elements will fire. See the light bulbs above. High Amperage High amperage fuses are located inside a junc- Fuse Test tion box on some models. This fuse box is used only on high amperage kilnssuchasthe Dragon, Viking-24 and Viking-28. The fuse box usually contains six fuses. If a fuse blows, Elements wired in parallel to the same relay: If one element is burned out, the other one set of elements will elements will still fire. See the light bulbs above. stop working. To test Test a high amperage fuse with an ohmmeter.  Test result: All the elements for one relay remain fuses, disconnect the You can test the fuse without removing it from off. power. Place the leads the fuse holder. of an ohmeter on each If all the elements on the same relay are out, try connecting end of a fuse. (It is okay that bank of elements to a different relay. If the elements fire to leave the fuse you are on a different relay, unplug kiln and open the switch box. testing in the fuse Look for a disconnected wire between controller, relay and holder.) An OPEN elements. If wiring is okay, replace the relay the elements reading on a digital me- were originally connected to. ter, or no-nee- If the bank of elements do not fire after connecting to a differ- dle-movement of an ent relay, test elements with an ohmmeter. See page 5. analog meter, indicates a blown fuse. If fuses  Test result: Some, but not all, elements for one are inserted up- relay glow. side-down, they will be The fuse must be aligned as shown above. If it is If more than one element is wired to the relay, the dark ele- loose, which will re- inserted upside-down, it will not make good connection. If the prongs on the fuse holder are ment is probably burned out. The problem is not the relay. duce amperage avail- loose, squeeze with pliers to tighten. Open the switch box. Look for a disconnected wire between able to the kiln. This the relay and element. If wiring is could also cause the okay, test the elements with an fuse to blow. ohmmeter. (See page 5.) Does the kiln have an infinite control Have you checked the switch wired to the elements that do not kiln for loose fire? connections? If the relay and elements have tested okay, replace the switch. UNPLUG kiln/disconnect the power. Open the kiln’s switch Tighten loose push-on connectors box. Look for loose, corroded or by squeezing gently with pliers. 8 - Unplug kiln/disconnect the power. Open the kiln’s switch PROBLEM Kiln heats unevenly. box and check for loose wires. Loose or corroded element How uneven is the temperature in the connectors and wire terminals will appear black or green- firing chamber? ish-turquoise. See “Have you checked the kiln for loose con-  If only slightly uneven: nections?” page 8. Load more ware in the hot section and less ware in the cool  If the above checks out okay, replace the breaker. section. This balances the load. As circuit breakers age, they sometimes weaken and trip too  If very uneven: easily. Even a new circuit breaker can be defective. (A circuit breaker should be replaced only by a licensed electrician.) Check for burned out elements and bad relays. See “Some elements do not fire,” page 7. PROBLEM Kiln switch box high PROBLEM Circuit breaker trips amperage fuse blows. or circuit fuse blows. The high amperage fuses are on kilns rated higher than 50 amps, such as the Paragon Dragon and Vikings. Does the circuit breaker shut off The high amperage fuse block usually contains six fuses. If a immediately after the kiln is plugged in fuse blows, one set of elements will stop firing. (See page 8.) or turned on?  Breaker trips immediately Does the fuse blow immediately after the after the kiln is plugged in. kiln is turned on? The kiln plug, wall receptacle, or The kiln has a short-circuit. Disconnect the power, remove any connection between the power the switch box and check for disconnected wires or cord and relay(s) has a short-cir- mis-wired elements. Keep the kiln disconnected until you cuit. Check the plug for discolor- have found the problem. ation and heat damage. Replace the cord and wall receptacle when the Does the fuse blow after the kiln has plug shows heat damage. fired for awhile?  Breaker trips immediately Disconnect the power. Open the kiln’s switch box and check after the kiln is programmed for loose wires. Make sure the fuses in the fuse holder are and the firing starts. tight and aligned properly. (Upside-down fuses can be loose, over-heat, and blow. See photo, page 8.) The kiln has a short-circuit somewhere between the relays and elements. Unplug the kiln/disconnect the power, remove the kiln’s switch box, and check for disconnected or damaged PROBLEM Kiln switch box ½ wires. Check for mis-wired elements. Keep the kiln un- plugged until you have found the problem. amp fuses keep blowing. What size fuse are you using? Does the circuit breaker/fuse shut off only after the kiln has fired for awhile? Correct fuse: AGC ½ A 250V AC.  Is the breaker and circuit wiring the recommended Test the ½ amp size for the kiln’s amperage? fuse. Check the electrical requirements for your kiln in the catalog specifications page. If the kiln is direct-wired, make sure the Kiln Switch Box wire between the kiln and wall is heavy enough. ½ Amp Fuse Power Test  Have you had hotter elements than the standard UNPLUG the elements installed in your kiln? kiln/disconnect the The kiln switch box fuse holder. This could increase the kiln’s amperage, causing the breaker power. Remove the 4 to shut off. screws holding the  controller board face- Is the kiln too close to the circuit breaker or fuse plate to the switch panel? box. Lift faceplate out Heat from the kiln may shut off the circuit breaker or blow a of box and let the fuse. board hang on the out-  Check electrical connections for tightness. side of the box with the back of the board Loose connections over-heat, build resistance, and trip the facing you. Discon- The power input plug has been removed from breaker/blow the fuse. Does the circuit breaker panel or wall nect the bottom plug the bottom of the board. outlet feel hot? If so, have repaired by an electrician. - 9 from the back of the board. (That is the power input plug with the orange, white, blue, and green wires.) Ap- PROBLEM Wall outlet gets hot. ply power to kiln. If the ½ amp fuse blows, replace the Replace the wall outlet. transformer. (If the fuse does not blow, the problem is Are the receptacle and cord of the proper size for the kiln? If a board or relay. Go to step 2.) you smell burning plastic, turn off the breaker immediately. Disconnect the power. Connect the bottom plug to the Touch the wall receptacle faceplate. If it feels hot, replace the back of the board. Dis- receptacle. Replace the kiln cord if it has been damaged by connect the top plug heat from the outlet. DO NOT FIRE THE KILN UNTIL (the one with the THE RECEPTACLE AND CORD ARE REPAIRED! black, brown, red, purple, and yellow power output wires). Apply power to the kiln again. Program Temperature, the controller to fire to 1000°F at 9999° rate in The top plug has been disconnected from the Display, and Ramp-Hold mode. board. These are the wires that send a signal to Press .Ifthethe relay(s). fuse blows, replace or Keypad Problems service the board. (If the fuse does not blow, the problem is caused by a short in the coil of a relay. Go to step PROBLEM Controller reads 3, below.) wrong temperature. UNPLUG kiln/disconnect power. Reconnect the bottom plug to the back of the board. Reinstall the What happens when you move the board in the switch box. Open switch box. If your kiln thermocouple tip? has one relay connected to the controller, replace the Reach inside the firing chamber and wiggle the thermocou- relay. Kilns with more than one relay: Perform the next ple tip. If the display test: makes a sizable jump in temperature, or the Relay Coil Test temperature becomes Disconnect the two erratic, replace the controller-to-relay lead thermocouple. wires from the first relay. Touch ohmmeter This test does not probes to the same two apply to a thermocouple inside a pro- 1 terminals on the relay. The 8” thermocouple should protrude into the tective ceramic firing chamber ½” - 5 ”. The ¼” thermocouple A good relay reads 8 tube. should protrude into firing chamber 1”. about 80 ohms. A relay The ohmmeter probes are placed on the relay with a short in its elec- terminals that power its 12 volt electromagnet How close to the thermocouple are tromagnet will read 0 - coil. See the relay diagrams on the cover and page 2. objects inside the firing chamber? 2 ohms, which will blow Keep shelves, posts, and ware 1 ½” away from the thermo- the kiln’s switch box fuse. Test each relay. couple. Check the fuse holder connections. Are thermocouple wires tight and UNPLUG the kiln or disconnect the power. Open the switch connected to the correct terminals? box. Find the fuse holder.(Seepage2.) Inspect the thermocouple connections on the back of the Check the push-on con- board. (See page 3 for instructions on removing the board.) nections for tightness. Pull the thermocouple wires to be sure they are tight. Some- Loose connections can times the connector buttons can stick in the down position, cause the fuse to blow. If resulting in a loose connection. But the connection looks they are loose, tighten okay, because the wires are still inserted all the way. with pliers. (See photo of Does the thermocouple have a ceramic block? (It would be pliers, page 8.) located on the other side of the wall where the thermocouple Checking the push-on connectors for tight- tip appears in the firing chamber. Be sure to unplug the kiln ness on the ½ amp fuse holder. before removing switch box.) The screws in the ceramic block must be tight. Make sure the wires coming from the thermocouple and the thermocouple-to-controller wires are

10 - connected with proper color po- How far off is the temperature? larity at the ceramic block and the Ceramics: Pyrometric shelf cones are the best calibration back of board. standard for ceramic firings. If all your cones consistently un- If the wires are reversed, the tem- der- or over-fire, adjust the controller temperature using the perature will appear to cool rather methods below. Use witness cones in every firing. Keep a re- than to heat. You will also get a cord of every firing. (Thermocouple Reversed) Compensating for temperature drift using offsets: Use message. See page 16. Tightening screw in the thermocouple ceramic block. the option to adjust the temperature setting of your Is the thermocouple or controller. Ceramic kilns: You could also use the option. See your operator’s manual. a bare thermocouple wire touching the Compensating for temperature drift by programming: metal case of kiln? Simply enter a temperature that will compensate for the ther- That can cause erratic temperature readings. Remove switch mocouple temperature drift. Cone-Fire mode on ceramic box to inspect. Also make sure the thermocouple wire insula- kilns: Enter a different cone number, or use hold, to compen- tion is in good condition. A bare spot touching the kiln case sate for temperature drift. can throw the temperature readings off. If the temperature is more than 45°F/25°C off, replace the Are you using the correct thermocouple thermocouple. If the temperature is still off after you replace wire? the thermocouple, return the controller for repair. If you are using the wrong wires to connect the thermocouple to the controller, the temperature will be inaccurate. PROBLEM The kiln overfires. Type-K Thermocouple Wire See also “Controller reads wrong temperature,” page 10. Yellow wire (+ terminal) Red wire (- terminal) Were there error messages such as Brown or yellow outer wire insulation HTdE? If not, the thermocouple gave a faulty reading, so the control- Type-S & Type-R Thermocouple Wire ler did not shut off the kiln. Black wire (+ terminal) Red wire (- terminal) Has the thermocouple been pushed out of Green outer wire insulation the firing chamber? 1 Thermocouple Sheath Types The 8” diameter thermocouple should protrude into the chamber at least ½” to 5 ”. The ½” - ¼” diameter Type-K: Black or silver metal sheath 8 Type-S: White ceramic ¼” wide protection tube thermocouples should protrude 1”. Sometimes a shelf nudged against the thermocouple will push it out of the firing Is the correct thermocouple type selected chamber. in Options? If this has happened, remove the thermocouple ceramic The Sentry can be used with Type-K, -S or -R block. (On most kilns, you will need to open the kiln switch thermocouples. Use the option, accessed through the box to gain access to the ceramic block.) Gently pull the ther- Options key, to select the thermocouple type for your kiln. mocouple, straightening the wires attached to the ceramic When the temperature reading is inaccurate, check that the block. If necessary, reposition the wires under the ceramic correct thermocouple type has been selected. block screws. Reinstall the ceramic block. If Type-S or -R has been selected, but your kiln is wired with a Type-K, your kiln will underfire. If you select Type-K and Do the elements stay on after you press your kiln is wired with a Type-S or -R, your kiln will STOP or after HTdE appears? OVERFIRE. If so, the electrical contacts inside a relay are stuck in the closed position. This will also cause elements to turn on as Any time you use the option (Reset), use the Op- soon as you plug in the kiln. Replace relay. See “Relay 12 Volt tion to select the correct thermocouple. The Reset option Battery Test,” page 15. changes the thermocouple selection to Type-S. See your operator’s manual for instructions on setting the options. Is a portable wall-mounted controller Has a thermocouple offset or cone offset positioned upright? been entered that you forgot about? Portable TnF 2 wall-mounted controllers equipped with a mercury relay must be placed in an upright position. If they See the option, which is accessed through the Op- are placed flat on a table, the mercury relay will remain on all tions key, in your operating manual. the time.

- 11 PROBLEM The controller won’t Is the temperature display erratic at room temperature? stay on hold. Perform the “Thermocouple Test,” page 14. If the display at Faulty relay. room temperature is still erratic with the paperclip in place When you program a hold, but the temperature drops on the back of the board, the thermocouple is not the cause. steadily, a relay may be worn out. A weak relay will shut off be- Has the thermocouple been installed cause the electromagnet inside the relay is too weak to turn on the power. Also, a relay with contacts stuck in the “on” po- correctly? Is the thermocouple worn out? sition will cause the temperature to rise during hold. Make sure the thermocouple remains out of contact with the kiln case or anything metallic. Position thermocouple lead wires away from other wires inside the switch box. Though PROBLEM The display shows protected by insulation, the thermocouple wires are sensitive to electromagnetic waves from other wires. Make sure ther- erratic temperature readings. mocouple wires are attached to the correct terminals on the The controller measures firing chamber temperature every ceramic block (if any) and controller board. Be sure the ther- 10 seconds. The temperature shown in the display is the av- mocouple wire ends are separated where the insulation has erage of the last three samples. Thus, the displayed tempera- been stripped. A worn thermocouple can cause erratic tem- ture is the average temperature for the past 30 seconds. perature readings. Wiggle the thermocouple tip. If the temperature jumps by a wide margin, replace the thermocouple. It is normal for the temperature to jump up or down a few degrees during firing. As temperature rises, the readout will not What is the condition of the wall show a steady climb, but rather minor jumps up and down. receptacle? This section of the troubleshooter is for readouts that are erratic by 10 - 15 degrees and more. A damaged, over-heated wall receptacle can destroy the grounding connection to the kiln, making the display more Does erratic temperature display start at prone to erratic temperatures. Replace a damaged recepta- around 1600°F? cle. If the cord shows heat damage, replace it also. A poor circuit ground can cause high temperature erratic Have you recently changed circuit wiring readings. So can a thermocouple that touches a grounded ob- (new location or new circuit)? ject such as the kiln case. If erratic temperatures appear momentarily each time the re- Is temperature erratic only when the lays click on, have an electrician check the electrical circuit elements are on? for a poorly connected grounding wire. Power wires (cord-to-relay and relay-to-element wires) Did you recently change the transformer? placed near the controller and thermocouple wire cause this A transformer of the wrong voltage can cause an erratic tem- type of fluctuation. Fire the kiln to around 600°F. Press perature display and missing display digits. (See the trans- STOP. This will shut off the elements. If the temperature former diagrams on the cover.) display is no longer erratic at IdLE, try rearranging the wires inside the switch box. PROBLEM The display remains Do the relays chatter? Does the temperature fluctuate in time with the stuck. clicking of the relays? Stuck key. A relay with a short in the electromagnet can cause an erratic Return the controller for replacement of key pad. display. The relay draws too much current, draining voltage from the board and interfering with normal display. Another Electrical noise. cause is a bad transformer that produces low voltage. See Sometimes a chattering relay or other source of electrical “Controller Power Input Test,” page 4. noise freezes the display message. Turn off the power for ten seconds. If that does not correct the problem, return the Electrical “noise,” which is random electromagnetic signals, board for servicing. can cause the controller temperature to become erratic. Sources of noise are a chattering relay, defective lid or door switch, nearby arc welding machines and heavy electric mo- PROBLEM Display digits burned tors. Placing the controller or thermocouple wires too close to flourescent lights can also cause noise. See “The relay out (parts of display missing). chatters or buzzes,” page 13. Has the transformer been replaced recently? A 120 volt transformer installed on a 240 volt kiln can burn out display digits. (See the transformer diagrams on the cover.) 12 - Have you checked the transformer? the wires and weakening the electromagnet. Since the mag- Low voltage from the transformer to the board can prevent a net is no longer strong enough to pull the contacts tightly full display. The controller shows all 8s at start up to test the together, the contacts chatter instead of click. display. If the controller is underpowered, it will not get out of Before you replace a chattering relay, check the wires con- that test mode. This results in all 8s in the display, or only a nected to it. A loose connection can cause even a new relay to center period. See “Controller Power Input Test,” page 4. chatter.

PROBLEM The“1”and/orthe“4” Are the relays receiving enough voltage? Voltage at the red and black wires on the back of the control- key does not respond. ler should be 12 volts DC when the controller sends power to Have you turned on Program Lock? the relay(s). Voltage below 9 volts DC may not be enough to drive the relay(s), or may cause a relay to chatter. See “Con- Check the Program Lock (displayed as ) in your troller Power Output Test,” page 5, and “Controller Power operator’s manual in the “Options” section. It deactivates the Input Test,” page 4. If these controller tests check out okay, programming keys so that programs cannot be tampered replace the relay that chatters or buzzes. with. PROBLEM The controller PROBLEM Ramp-Hold target temperature shown in Program keeps beeping. Alarm is set to a lower temperature. Review is lower than the Turn off the alarm by pressing . Then program the temperature you entered. alarm to a different temperature. See the operator’s manual. What is the maximum temperature rating of your kiln? The controller is set at the factory to fire no hotter than the maximum temperature of your kiln. If you enter a higher Error Messages temperature than the maximum, the controller will default to Some error messages are accompanied by an alarm. To turn the kiln’s maximum temperature. off the alarm, press . The temperature rating of your kiln is listed on the electrical data plate on the side of the switch box. You can also check PROBLEM BAdP / Bad the option. (See your operator’s manual under Op- tions.) Programming This message appears when a program has been entered with 0 rate in the first segment.

Noises PROBLEM ETH / Electronics Too Hot PROBLEM The relay chatters or The circuit board temperature is above 185°F/85°C. A relay buzzes. with a short can cause the board to get too hot. Perform the “Relay Coil Test” shown on page 10. Has the relay been damaged by heat? Are the connections tight? The thermocouple or a bare part of the thermocouple wire touching a grounded object, such as the kiln case, can cause To turn on the elements, the Sentry controller sends power an message. to the relays. Inside each relay, the power from the controller charges an electromagnet, which closes electrical contacts Is room temperature unusually high? that turn on the elements. Open windows and use a fan to circulate air in the room be- During normal operation, a relay makes a clicking noise every fore firing the kiln or furnace. If you have more than one kiln time its electromagnet brings the contacts together. (Mer- in the room, place them farther apart. Never allow the firing cury relays are silent, however, because they don’t use me- room temperature to exceed 110°F/43°C. (Measure room chanical contacts.) temperature three feet away from the kiln.) Sometimes a relay makes a chattering or buzzing instead of a Defective controller clicking noise. This is usually because the wires inside the If appears when the room is not hot, and the relays and electromagnet have over-heated, burning the insulation on thermocouple are okay, return the controller. - 13 If you still get a message after replacing the thermo- PROBLEM FAIL / Thermocouple couple, watch for an erratic temperature display. The prob- Failure lem may be due to electrical noise. See “The display shows erratic temperature readings,” page 12. Keep a spare thermocouple on hand. Replace the thermocouple when you get a message. If the appears Multiple-Zone kilns after you have replaced the thermocouple, try the following: In a multiple-zone kiln, if a thermocouple fails, the firing will Are thermocouple wires connected to the continue as a single-zone kiln so long as one thermocouple still operates. will appear, alternating with the thermo- board correctly? couple that failed (i.e. ). kiln. Remove the 4 screws holding the controller board faceplate to the switch box. Lift faceplate out of box. is connected to the left two thermocouple terminals on Look at the back of the board. You should see a yellow wire the back of the Sentry board; is connected to the cen- and a red wire connected to the thermocouple connection ter two terminals; is connected to the terminals on the block at the bottom of the back of the board. (See diagram, right. page 2.) If one of these wires is disconnected or loose, reconnect or tighten. PROBLEM FTC / Failed to Cool It is pos- During a cooling-down ramp, the programmed rate is faster sible that a wire pushed all than the kiln can cool. The temperature is above the deviation the way into the connection setting. (See Temperature Deviation in the operator’s can still be loose. This is be- manual.) Program a slower cooling rate. cause a button can stick, leaving the wire loose inside the connection. Test by pull- PROBLEM FTH / Failed to Heat ing on each wire. During a heating-up ramp, the programmed rate is faster What is the than the kiln can heat. The temperature is below the deviation setting. (See Temperature Deviation in the operator’s condition of the manual.) thermocouple lead wires? Check to make sure the insulation is in good condition. If the Program a slower rate. Or check for worn or burned out ele- insulation rubs off and the bare thermocouple wire touches a ments, defective relays, low voltage and defective thermocou- grounded object inside the switch box, can appear. ple. Also make sure that the thermocouple is not touching the kiln case. PROBLEM FTL / Firing Too Long Test the controller with a short piece of The temperature change is less than 27°F/15°C per hour and thin wire. the firing time is four hours longer than the current segment If the wires were attached securely to their connectors, per- was programmed to fire. This message can appear during form this test: heating-up or cooling-down segments. Thermocouple Test Was the firing too slow? Remove thermocouple wires from their connections. If appears well below the target temperature during a Some Sentry versions have lever connectors; others heating-up segment, such as 1000°F for an 1800°F firing, you have push-button connectors. probably have a burned out element or relay. See “Kiln fires too slowly or will not reach temperature,” page 6. Insert a thin piece of wire in the thermocouple connectors. Check for worn or burned out elements, defective relays, low (You could use a piece of ther- voltage and defective thermocouple. mocouple wire or paperclip.) Did FTL appear during a controlled Place the faceplate onto the cooling? switchbox with a couple of screws. If appears during a cooling segment, it is usually because the segment was programmed to cool faster than the Plug in the kiln/connect the kiln’s natural cooling ability. To avoid getting the mes- power. If the board reads room sage, program a slower cooling rate. temperature, replace the ther- A thin piece of wire being used to mocouple. If it reads , test the thermocouple circuit on replace the board. the controller.

14 - 1) The kiln is equipped with the optional lid safety switch. PROBLEM HTdE / High (The switch turns off power to the elements when the lid or Temperature Deviation door is open.) appears in the display while the lid is open during firing. During a heating-up ramp or a hold, the temperature is above the deviation setting. (See the Temperature Deviation option 2) On the back of the Sentry circuit board, at the top right in the Sentry operator’s manual.) The kiln will shut off when side, is a small two-pin terminal. If the connector on that ter- the error code appears. minal is missing, will appear in the display during firing. The elements will not turn on. (If the two-pin connector This may be caused by a temperature overshoot. See the op- is missing, you can buy another from a computer supply erator’s manual. Check for a stuck relay. store.) Check the relay(s). 3) The safety lid switch is defective or the safety switch wire is is caused by a stuck relay or defective controller. If the broken. elements remain on after appears, check the relays as follows: PROBLEM LTdE / Low Relay 12 Volt Battery Test You will need an ohmmeter, 12 volt battery and 2 clip wires. Temperature Deviation During a cooling-down ramp or a hold, the temperature is WARNING: You must disconnect the controller-to-relay below the deviation setting. (See “Temperature Deviation” wires to test the relay(s) with a battery. Leaving the wires in the operator’s manual.) connected could damage the controller. kiln/disconnect Check for worn or burned out elements, defective relays, low the power and remove voltage and defective thermocouple. switch box. Find the two wires going from the con- PROBLEM PF, PF 2 or PF 3 troller to the relay you are testing. Disconnect these during firing. wires from the relay. Then alternating with normal display means the power failed connect a 12 volt lantern during firing. After power was restored, the firing resumed. battery to the same relay terminals (#5 and #6 on means the power failed. The kiln temperature was be- the diagrams shown on the low 212°F/100°C when the power came back on. The kiln will cover) using clip wires. Testing a relay with a 12 volt lantern bat- not resume firing. You should hear a click tery. when you make the connection. If there is no click, the re- means the power failed during cone-fire mode. It can lay is probably defective. Make sure your battery is good also apply to the final segment of a ramp-hold firing where before assuming the relay is bad. that segment’s rate was 108°F/60°C. The temperature dropped more than 72°F/40°C while the power was off. The Touch ohmmeter lead wires to relay terminals marked #1 kiln will not resume firing. and #2 in the diagrams on the cover. With the battery still connected, you should get a continuity reading (0 ohms) Have you had a power failure? on the ohmmeter. (This is the same reading you would get  PF, PF 2 or PF 3 message, no power failure. if you touched the ohmmeter leads together.) If you get a Low voltage can cause the kiln to shut off and display no-needle movement when the battery is connected, re- or a blank display. If this happens and you did place the relay. Place the ohmmeter wires on relay termi- not have a power failure, check the wall receptacle, while the nals marked 3 and 4 on the diagrams and test the same kiln fires, for low voltage. (See “Receptacle Under Load way. Test,” page 6.) Sometimes there is just enough voltage to If the ohmmeter reading at terminals #1 and #2, and then program the board. But when the relays turn on, the voltage #3 and #4, is 0 ohms when the battery is removed, the re- from the transformer drops below the minimum operating lay contacts are stuck. Replace the relay. level, and the display goes blank. If the relays are okay and the elements turn on when you re- A corroded kiln cord plug or wall receptacle can cause a connect the controller wires to the relays, return the control- or a blank display. Pull the plug from the wall. ler for repair. Clean the plug prongs with fine emery paper or a pencil eraser until the prongs are bright. If the plug or wall receptacle is blackened, replace. A loose wall receptacle screw or PROBLEM The “LId” Display loose circuit breaker screw can also cause a power failure dis- Reasons appears in the display: play.

- 15 Check transformer if the wall receptacle voltage is okay. See Were the relays chattering or buzzing? “Controller Power Input Test,” page 4. Electrical noise from a chattering or buzzing relay can cause a PLOG message. See page 13. PROBLEM PLOG Error Codes Clearing PLOG Error Codes A PLOG error code means that the controller failed a self-di- Clear the PLOG error code by pressing . agnostics test. The controller will not operate while a PLOG message appears. If pressing does not clear a PLOG error, turn off power to the kiln for 10 seconds. Has your controller been near a source of If the PLOG error code still appears, turn off the power. electrical “noise”? Hold down the and keys while you turn the Electrical “noise” is electromagnetic interference that can power back on. This resets the controller, so you may affect the controller. A possible source of electrical “noise”is need to reselect thermocouple type ( option) and a chattering or buzzing relay. Other sources are flourescent type of temperature display ( option). See “Op- lights, large electric motors, and arc welders. Flourescent tions” in your operator’s manual. lights can affect the controller if the thermocouple wire or After a PLOG error clears, it is okay to fire the kiln again with controller is placed right next to a large number of lights. close supervision. This is rare, though. If a nearby motor or arc welder is causing a PLOG error, move the kiln away from those sources. Does your kiln have mercury relays? If so, verify that MOVs, PROBLEM TCdE / Uneven which reduce electrical “noise,” are installed. Multiple Zone Temperatures How reliable is your electrical source? Onamultiplezonekiln, usually means the Low voltage and power spikes can cause PLOG errors. thermocouples and elements are improperly wired. A thermocouple is turning on the elements to the wrong zone. For Have you changed relays to a different type than the original instance, if the top thermocouple turns on the bottom ele- installed on your kiln? The wrong relay type can cause a ments, the kiln will fire out of balance. When zones are out of PLOG error by pulling too much power from the controller. balance by 140°F/60°C, will appear in the display. A relay with a short can cause a PLOG error. It can drain the Visually compare the wiring of the thermocouples, relays and power from the controller. Perform the “Relay Coil Test” elements of your kiln to the kiln’s wiring diagram. Also, use shown on page 10. the Element Test option. See “Options” in your operator’s What is the condition of your manual. thermocouple? PLOG 11, 12 and 13 indicate that a thermocouple is about to TCR / Thermocouple Leads fail or that electrical noise is affecting the thermocouple. Reversed Try moving the thermocouple lead wires away from nearby Check that the thermocouple lead wires are connected to the electrical wires and relays. correct terminals. Observe correct color polarity. See your wiring diagram. Make sure the bare lead wires extending from the thermocouple are not touching the kiln case. If the insulation on the thermocouple wires is rubbed off, a bare spot on the wire touching the kiln case can cause a If the insulation anywhere on the thermocouple wires is message. Check the wire for damaged insulation. rubbed off, a bare spot on the wire can touch the kiln case. This can result in a PLOG message. Check the wire for dam- The thermocouple wires must be connected with correct aged insulation. color polarity at both the thermocouple ceramic block and the back of the controller. If you get a message because Check for loose thermocouple wire connections on the back the wires are reversed on the thermocouple block, do not cor- of the controller and at the thermocouple. A PLOG error is rect the problem by reversing the wires on the back of the often caused by loose screws on the thermocouple ceramic controller. If you do so, the message will disappear, but block. This is located on the other side of the kiln wall where the temperature the thermocouple extends into the firing chamber. (Note: will be less Your kiln may not have a ceramic block.) It is also possible accurate. that the screws are tight but that the thermocouple wire under the screw is broken. 2011 South Town East Blvd. Mesquite, Texas 75149-1122 Replacing the thermocouple usually clears the PLOG 11, 12 800-876-4328 / 972-288-7557 or 13 code. Toll Free Fax: 888-222-6450 [email protected] www.paragonweb.com 16 -