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Australia 17

Australia 17

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Index

A shopping 737-8 antechinus 1051 Australian Open 499, 1061 Aboriginal art 19, 130, 831, sights 717-22 Anzac Day 1038, 1036 Australian Rules football 848-9, 1005, 1043-5, 19, tourist information 739 Apollo Bay 542-4 31, 496, 501, 737, 822, 848, see also rock art tours 723-4 833-4, 1060, 19 Aboriginal culture 27, 1042-7 travel to/from 739 of Western Australian War Memorial 258-9 food 1057 travel within 739-40 910 Australianisms 1030 languages 1036 Adelaide Fringe 30 Aquascene 814, 847 Australia’s regions 58-60 music 1045 Adelaide Hills 740-4, 741 Indo-Pacific Marine Ayers Rock, see Uluru performing arts 1045 AFL Grand Final 31, 501 Exhibition 816 Aboriginal festivals 30, 468, Agnes Water 363-6 Melbourne Aquarium 482 822, 849, 849 air travel 1081, 1082 Merimbula Aquarium 252 B Aboriginal history 1031, Aireys Inlet 541 National Zoo & Aquarium backpacker hostels 1067-8 1032, 1034, 1046-7 264 Airlie Beach 386-92, 387, Badgingarra National HQ Aquarium 395, Aboriginal people 19, 849 421 Park 973 421 Bennelong 1033 airports 1081 Bairnsdale 610-11 land 48, 1042-3 SEA LIFE Ballarat 569-74, 570 Albany 956-9, 957 Aquarium 84-5 66-7, Ballina 182-3 Albury 225-7 area codes 23, 1076 138, 155, 157, 200 Bamaga 470-1 Aldgate 742-3 Arkaroola 800 810, Bangalow 192 853, 862, 894 Alexander Morrison National Armidale 200-1 Park 973 banking 1073 278 Arnhem Land 855-6 Alice Springs 870-84, Banks, Joseph 1031 711, 715, art, see Aboriginal art, 872-3, 878 Barcaldine 377-8 719, 792, 796 galleries accommodation 877-9 Barmera 770-1 Tasmania 619, 622, 1035 Art Gallery of NSW 77 activities 875 Barossa Valley 774-9, Victoria 475, 482, 497, Art Gallery of South 775, 18 553 children, travel with 723 Australia 717, 26 Barraba 198 904, 943 drinking 881 Art Gallery of Western Barrington Tops National accommodation 1066-8, see emergency services 882 Australia 910 Park 160 also individual locations entertainment 881 Arthur River 695 Barwon Heads 526 activities 29-32, 51-7, see festivals 876 Atherton 441-2 basketball 737 also individual locations food 879-81 Atherton Tableland 437-46 Bat Cave 768 Adelaide 716-40, 718-19, medical services 882 ATMs 1073 Batavia Coast 976-83 728-9, 732-3 money 882 Augusta 947-8 Batchelor 837-8 accommodation 725-8 shopping 881-2 Australia Day 29 Bateman’s Bay 248-9 activities 722-3 sights 871-5 337 bathrooms 1077 drinking 734-6 tourist information 882 Australian Centre for emergency services 738 tours 875-6 Contemporary Art 486 Bathurst 204-6 entertainment 736-7 travel to/from 882-3 Australian Centre for the Bathurst Island 833 festivals 724-5 travel within 883-4 Moving Image 479 Battery Hill Mining Centre 868 food 728-34 amusement parks, see Australian Formula One history 1034 theme parks Grand Prix 500 Bay of Fires 668 medical services 738 Anakie 371 Australian Institute of beaches 25 Sport 264 money 738 Angaston 778-9 764 Anglesea 540 Australian Museum 77 Beachport Conservation Park 764 animals 1049-51, see Australian National Botanic Gardens 261-2 Beauty Point 677-8 Map Pages 000 also wildlife watching, Australian National Bedourie 380 Photo Pages 000 individual species Maritime Museum 88 1096 Beechworth 594-6 Bondi 21, 92-4, 94, 21, Bruny Island 647-50 Quorn 795-6 beer 31, 1058-9, see also 120, 121 Buchan 613 Stuarts Well 890 breweries Booderee National Park budget 23 Uluru 891 Bellarine Peninsula 522-6 247 Buley Rockhole 838 Campbell Town 658-9 Bellingen 171-2 Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) Bunbury 940-1 campervans 1087-8 National Park 464 Bells Beach 540 Bunda Cliffs 792 camping 1066-7

IND books 1028 Bundaberg 360-1 Canberra 15, 258-72, 257, Booti Booti National Park 255 Bundanoon 223-4 260, 262, 15 EX EX 159-60 Ben Lomond National 273 accommodation 256, Borroloola 866

B-C Park 680 bungy jumping 417 265-7 Boulia 379 Bendigo 574-9, 576 activities 264-5 Burleigh Heads 324-6, 55  Bennelong 1033 Bourke 239-40 Burnie 688-92 children, travel with 259 Bennett, Shannon 507 Bowen 394-5 Burra 783 climate 256 Bermagui 251-2 Bowra 222-3 bus travel 1083, 1083-4 drinking & nightlife Berri 772-3 breweries 269-70 bush tucker 1057 Berrima 223-4 New South Wales 243 emergency services 271 bushfires 528, 1028, 1053, Queensland 293 Berry 244 1065 entertainment 270 South Australia 721, Bicheno 665-6 bushwalking 52, 57 festivals & events 265 751, 794 bicycle travel, see cycling Canberra 264 food 256, 267-9 Tasmania 630, 640 Big Day Out 29 New South Wales 68, highlights 257 Victoria 514, 562 Bingara 198 139, 219 history 259 Western Australia 912, birds 1050, see also Northern Territory 811 internet access 271 931 birdwatching Queensland 279 medical services 271 316 Birdsville 380 South Australia 714 shopping 270-1 Bridgetown 949 Birdsville Track 49, 380, Tasmania 623, 702 sights 258-264 806 Bright 597-9 Victoria 551 tourist information 271 birdwatching 53, 1055, see 282-311, 284-5, Western Australia 905 tours 265 also wildlife watching 288-9, 292, 298, travel to/from 271-2 New South Wales 68, 301, 311 business hours 1074 161, 167, 174, 204, 251 accommodation 941-2 travel within 272 Northern Territory 811, 296-300 369 Canberra Museum & Gallery 263 815, 837, 843, 896 activities 291-3 Bay 14, 184-93, Queensland 289, 362, children, travel with 287 184, 14 Canberra Space Centre 273 393, 411, 438, 451 drinking & nightlife cane toads 279 South Australia 752, 759, 304-6 Canning Stock Route 970 C 761, 772 emergency services 309 canoeing, see kayaking & Cable Beach 1008 Tasmania 663, 666, entertainment 306-8 canoeing Cairns 413-33, 414-15, 668, 674 festivals & events 295-6 Canowindra 209 433 Victoria 527, 531, 556, food 300-4 Cape Arid National Park 572, 615 accommodation 425-8 963 history 283 Western Australia 961, activities 417 Cape Bridgewater 549 internet access 309 965, 980, 1002, 1009, drinking 429-30 Cape Conran 615 medical services 309 1014, 1015, 1021 emergency services 431 Cape Jervis 748 money 309 Birdwood 743 entertainment 430 Cape Kimberley 453 shopping 308-9 Bitter Springs 865 food 428-9 Cape Le Grand National Black Mountain National sights 283-90 internet access 431 Park 963 Park 434 tourist information 309 medical services 431 943 Blackdown Tableland tours 293-5 money 431 Cape Otway 544 National Park 371 travel to/from 309-10 shopping 431 Cape Range National Park Blackfellows 790-1 travel within 310 sights 413-17 997-8 Blinman 799 walking tour 294, 294 tourist information 431 Cape Tribulation 456-7, 764 Brisbane Botanic Gardens tours 417-25 454 Blue Mountains National 289 travel to/from 431-2 Park 136-43, 137, 51 Brisbane Festival 31, 295, travel within 432-3 464-72, 466-7 Boat Harbour 692-3 296 337-8 Capricorn Coast 362-72, boat travel 1082, see also Broad Arrow 969 camel riding 364 sailing Broadbeach 320-4 Alice Springs 875 car travel 47, 1072, 1084-90 Broken Hill 233-7, 234 Broome 1009 caravanning 1066-7 Brookfield Place 24 Cardwell 406-7 Map Pages 000 Coward Springs 806 Broome 16, 1008-14, Carnarvon 986-8 Photo Pages 000 Kings Canyon 889 1010, 16 1097 Carnarvon Gorge 372 coffee 1058 currency exchange 1074 Devonian Reef National Coffin Bay National Park customs regulations 1069 Parks 1019-20 372 790 cycling 52, 1082 Devonport 681-2 Carrickalinga 747 173-8, 174 New South Wales 68, 98, diarrhoea 1071-2 cassowaries 411 Coles Bay 663-5 99-100, 139 Dig Tree 806 Castlemaine 579-81 colloquial language 1030 Northern Territory Dimboola 557

Cataract Gorge 669 Commodore Point 749 821, 875 Dinner Plain 601 IND Cathedral Cave 768 consulates 1069-70 Queensland 291 dinosaurs 378, 1008 EX EX Cave Gardens 765 convicts 77, 655, 1032-3 South Australia disabilities, travellers with

 C-E 782 ,722-3 caves 393 1077 Tasmania 631 Buchan 613 Coober Pedy 801-4, 802 diving & snorkelling  Victoria 474, 592 Capricorn Caves 368 Cooinda 853-4 Byron Bay 186 Western Australia Coonawarra 768 Cook, James 1031-2, 1034, Cairns 418 905, 911 Cutta Cutta 861 1032 Christmas Island 1002 Cyclone Tracy 813 Engelbrecht Cave 765 Cooktown 458-60 Cocos (Keeling) Islands Cygnet 650 Hastings Caves 652 Coolangatta 326-7 1002 Jenolan Caves 138 Coolgardie 965-6 Coffs Harbour 175 Lake Cave 945 Cooloola Coast 341-2 D 40-2, 55, , Mt Gambier 765 Cooma 215-17 D’Aguilar Range National 54 423 New South Wales 68 Mulkas Cave 972 Coonabarabran 203 Park 291 Ningaloo Marine Park Murrawijinie 792 Coonawarra 766-7 13, 452, 997 Wombeyan Caves 223 Coongie Lakes 806 13 Daintree Village 451-2 Queensland 279-80 Yourambulla 797 Cooper Creek 455 Daly River 839-40 South Australia 714 Ceduna 791-2 Coopers Brewery 721 Daly Waters 867 Sydney 98 cell phones 22, 1075-6 Dampier 998 Tasmania 623 973-4 761-2 Dampier Peninsula 1014-15 397 Chambers Pillar 890 Coral Bay 989-92 Dandenong Ranges 528-9 Western Australia 905 Charleville 378-9 Coral Coast 988-1004, dangers, see safety dolphin watching 57 Charlotte Pass 222 990-1 Darling Downs 342-6 New South Wales 69, 247 Charters Towers 400 Corinna 696 Queensland 314 Childers 359 Corryong 568 Darwin 18, 813-33, 814, Cossack 999 818-19, 846, 847 Western Australia 941, children, travel with 1068-9 985-6, Coulta 790 accommodation 823-6 56 Adelaide 723 Dongara 976-7 Country Music Festival 199 drinking 828-9 Brisbane 287 172 Cow Bay 453 emergency services 831 Canberra 259 Douglas-Apsley National Cowaramup 944 entertainment 829-30 Hobart 635 Park 665 Coward Springs 805 festivals 823 Melbourne 478 Dover 652 Cowra 209-10 food 826-8 913 drinking 1058-9, see also medical services 831 Sydney 100 Cradle Mountain-Lake St individual locations Clair National Park 17, money 831 Chillagoe 441 driving, see car travel 701-5, 17 shopping 830-1 Chowilla Game Reserve 1064 Crater Lakes National Park sights 813-20 773 drug use 1072 443-4 tourist information 832 Christies Beach 747 Dryandra Woodland 971 credit cards 1073 travel to/from 832 Christmas Island 1002 Drysdale River 1019 Crescent Head 166-7 travel within 832-3 City Botanic Gardens, Dubbo 211-13 Brisbane 283 cricket 487, 501, 1036, Daydream Island 393 1060-1 Dudley Peninsula 755-6 Clare 782 Daylesford 581-4 crime 1065 dugongs 57 Clare Valley 779-83 daylight saving 1077 Croajingolong National Duncan Road 1022 debit cards 1073-4 Clifton Beach 436 Park 616-17 411 Deloraine 682-3 climate 22, 29-32, 1049, crocodiles 275, 813-14, 837, Dunkeld 555 1053, see also dengue fever 1065, 1071 843, 1051, 1064 Dunsborough 942-3 individual regions Denham 983-5 Crowe, Russell 180 DVDs 1067 climate change 1053 Deniliquin 230-1 Croydon 462-3 Dwellingup 938-9 Cloncurry 373-4 cruises 1082 Denmark 954-6 Cobourg Peninsula 856 culture 1028-30, see also D’Entrecasteaux National Cockatoo Island 74 Aboriginal culture Park 949 E Cockle Creek 652-3 Cumberland River 542 Derby 1015-17 Eaglehawk Neck 654 Cocos (Keeling) Islands currency 22 deserts 1055 East MacDonnell Ranges 1002 884-5 Currency Creek 744 Devil’s Marbles 869 1098 echidnas 1051 Finch Hatton Gorge 388 Araluen Arts Centre 871 Geeveston 651 Echuca 563-7, 564 Finke Gorge National Park Art Gallery of Ballarat Geoffrey Bay 24 Edel Land 984 887-8 571 940-3 Eden 254-5 fishing 57, 56 Art Gallery of NSW 77 geology 1048-9 861 Northern Territory 811 Art Gallery of South George Town 678 Australia 717 785 Queensland 280 Geraldton 977-80, 978

IND Art Gallery of Western electricity 1069 Tasmania 623 giardia 1065 Australia 910 Ellery Creek Big Hole 886 Fitzgerald River National Gibb River Road 1017-19 EX EX Park 960-1 Australian Centre for Elliott 867 Contemporary Art 486 Gillard, Julia 1028, 1041 Fitzroy Island 434  E Ellis Beach 437 Gippsland 604-17, 604-5 - Australian Centre for the

H 744-52, Elliston 790 Moving Image 479 Gippsland Lakes 610-13 745 Elsey National Park 865 Bendigo Art Gallery 575 Flinders Chase National embassies 1069-70 343 Park 760-1 Cairns Regional Gallery Emerald 371 415 Flinders Island 705-8, 791 emergency services 23, Canberra Museum & 336-7 Flinders Ranges 793-800, see also individual Gallery 263 Glen Annie Gorge 885 795 locations Centre of Contemporary Glen Innes 198 Flinders Ranges National Emily Gap 884 Arts, Cairns 416 Glendambo 801 Park 797-9 employment 1079-80 Gallery of Modern Art, Glenelg 721 floods 278, 1028 Emu Bay 758, 758-9 Brisbane 286 Glenrowan 586 838 encephalitis 1065, 1071 Geelong Art Gallery 535 Gnarraloo Bay 988 flowers 1052 Engelbrecht Cave 765 Heide 482 Goat Island 74 food 14, 1056-8, 1070, entertainment, see Ian Potter Centre: NGV gold 569, 578, 1035 see also individual Australia 478 individual locations locations Gold Coast 14, 316-27, environment 1048-55 Institute of Modern 317, 14 football 31, 496, 501, 737, Art 287 environmental issues 1052 822, 833-4, 1060, 19 Goolwa 750-2 MONA 12, 631, 12 Ernest Giles Road 890 Footscray 483 Goulburn 224 Museum & Art Gallery of Errinundra National Park Formula One Grand Prix 30 Goulburn Valley 584-7 614 the Northern Territory Fort Denison 74 816-17 Grafton 180-1 Esperance 961-3 four-wheel driving 1087 Museum of Grampians (Gariwerd) etiquette 1030, 1058 François Peron National Contemporary Art 74 551-5, 552 Eureka Stockade 572, 1036 Park 985 National Gallery of Granger, Bill 109 Evandale 679-80 Frankland Islands 435 Australia 259 Great Barrier Reef 10, 37- events, see festivals & Franklin-Gordon Wild National Portrait Gallery 42, 419-24, 11, 54, 419, events Rivers National Park 260-1 420, 422, 423, 424 Ewaninga 889-90 700-1 Newcastle Art Gallery Great Keppel Island 370-1 exchange rates 23 Fraser Island 20, 347-51, 149 Great Ocean Road 13, 474, Exmouth 993-6, 994 348, 20 NGV International 483 535-51, 536-7, 13 Eyre Peninsula 786-93, 787 Fremantle 16, 925-32, 926 Norman Lindsay Gallery Great Sandy National Park accommodation 929-30 & Museum 136 341-2 activities 928 Nyinkka Nyunyu 868 Green Head 974-5 F drinking 931 Perth Institute of Green Island 434 Falls Creek 600-1 entertainment 931 Contemporary Arts Greenly Beach 790 farmstays 1068 910 festivals & events 929 Gregory National Park 864 Federation Square 478 Pro Hart Gallery 235 food 930-1 Gregory’s Tree 864 festivals & events 29-32, Queensland Art history 925 Griffith 229-30 see also individual Gallery 286 medical services 932 GST 1074 locations Queen Victoria Museum Guilderton 972 film 1028 shopping 932 & Art Gallery 670 Gulf St Vincent 747-8 Australian Centre for the sights 927-8 Tasmanian Museum & Moving Image 479 tourist information 932 Art Gallery 627 Gulgong 214-15 Melbourne International tours 929 Gallery of Modern Art, Gumeracha 743 Film Festival 31, 501 travel to/from 932 Brisbane 286 Gunbalanya 855-6 National Film & Sound travel within 932 Gallipoli 1038 Gundagai 224-5 Archive 261 Freycinet National Park gardens, see parks & Gunlom 854 Tropfest 29 663-5 gardens Gympie 351-2 Gascoyne Coast 986-8 gay travellers 102, 516, Map Pages 000 G 725, 1070 H galleries 27, see also Hahndorf 740-2 Photo Pages 000 Geelong 535-8, 538 museums Hall 273 1099 Halls Gap 553-5 sights 627-31 Inverell 198 Keppel Bay Islands 371 Hamelin Pool 983 tourist information 643 Iron Range National Park Kettering 646-7 Hamilton Island 394 tours 631-4 469 Kiama 243-4 Hanging Rock 522 travel to/from 643 irukandji 1064 Kidman Trail 716 Harrietville 601 travel within 643 itineraries 33-6, 33, 34, Kiewa Valley 599-600 Harts Range 870 holidays 29-32, 1075 35, 36 Kimberley, the 1004-25 Hartz Mountains National Holloways Beach 435 1006-7 IND Park 651-2 Hook Island 393 J EX Hastings Caves 652 Hope Islands National Jabiru 852 238

Hat Head National Park Park 461 King Island 685-6 H

Jardine River 470 -

167-8 L horse racing 823, 876, 1061 Jardine River National King Valley 593-4 Hattah-Kulkyne National Melbourne Cup 32, 501, Park 470 Kings Canyon 888-9, 889, Park 556 1038, 1061 Jawoyn Valley 862 850 Hawker 796-7 horse riding jellyfish 367, 1064 Kings Park & Botanic Hawkesbury River 134-6 Kimberley, the 1018 Jenolan Caves 138 Garden, Perth 910, 17 Hawks Nest 156-7 Mansfield 591 Jervis Bay 246-8 Kingscote 757-8 Hayman Island 394, 26 217 Jessie Gap 884 Kingston-On-Murray 770 Head of Bight 792 Sydney 98 853 Knights Beach 749 Healesville 527-8 Horsham 555 Jindabyne 217-18 Healesville Sanctuary 527 342 hostels 1067-8 John Hayes Rockhole 884 health 1070-2 koalas 1050 hot springs 582 Junee 228 heatstroke 1071 Billabong Koala & Bitter Springs 865 Jurien Bay 974-5 Henbury Meteorite Craters Coward Springs 806 Wildlife Park 163 890 Daylesford 582 Koala Conservation Centre 532 Henley-on-Todd Regatta Hastings Caves 652 K 876 Kadina 784 Koala Hospital 161 Mataranka 865 hepatitis C 1065 Kakadu National Park 18, Lone Pine Koala Peninsula Hot Springs Sanctuary 289 Hepburn Springs 581-4 530 841-4, 851-5, 842, 7, 18 New South Wales 169 Herberton 445 hotels 1068 Kalbarri 980-3, 981 Queensland 275 Hermannsburg 887 Howard, John 1041 Kalgoorlie-Boulder 966-9 Kookynie 970 Heron Island 362-3 Hunter Valley 143-9, Kalumburu 1020 144 Koonwarra 606 Hervey Bay 354-9, 356-7 Huonville 650-1 Kangaroo Island 752-61, Heysen Trail 716 754 Kosciuszko National Hyden 972 Park 218 High Country 587-604, Kangaroo Valley 244-5 Kundjarra 868 588-9 kangaroos 1049-50 Kununurra 1021-5 hiking, see bushwalking I Kanowna 969 Hinchinbrook Island Ian Potter Centre: NGV Kantju Gorge 897 Kuranda 437-40, 439 Australia 478 National Park 407 Karijini National Park Ku-ring-gai Chase National Ikara 797 Park 97-8 Hindmarsh Island Bridge 1000-3, 1001, 21 750 immigration 1081 Karratha 998-9 Kwong, Kylie 109 history 1031-41, see also Indigenous art, see Karumba 463 Kwongan 973 Aboriginal history, Aboriginal art Kyneton 522 Kata Tjuta 896, 896, 845 individual locations Indigenous culture, see Katherine 857-61, hitching 1090 Aboriginal culture 858 Katherine Gorge 861 HIV 1065 Indigenous history, see L Aboriginal history Katherine River 861 Lady Elliot Island 362 Hobart 626-43, 628, 632 kayaking & canoeing, see Lady Musgrave Island 362 accommodation 635-7 Indigenous people, see Aboriginal people also white-water rafting Lake Albert 761 activities 631 Ingalalla Falls 748 New South Wales 69, Lake Argyle 1024 children, travel with 635 Ingham 405-6 100, 187 Lake Ballard 969 drinking & nightlife Injalak Hill 855 Northern Territory 861, Lake Bonney 770 639-41 862 Innamincka 806 Lake Cave 945, 19 emergency services 642 Queensland 281 Innes National Park 785-6 Lake Cooroibah 341 entertainment 641 South Australia 751, Innisfail 412 Lake Cootharaba 341 festivals & events 634-5 753, 773 insurance 1071, 1072 Lake Eildon National Park food 637-9 Tasmania 623 international calls 1076 587-90 history 626-7 Keep River National Park Lake Eyre 805 internet access 642 internet access 1072, 864-5 see also individual Lake Mountain 528 medical services 643 Kelly, Ned 586 locations Lake Pedder 708-9 money 643 Kempsey 166 internet resources 23 Lake Tinaroo 442 shopping 641-2 Kennett River 542 1100 Lobethal 743-4 Sydney 128 Meningie 761 469 local transport 1091 Sydney Fish Market 88 meningococcal disease Lakeland 468 Long Island 392-3 Marla 805 1065 Lakes Entrance 612-13 Longford 679 Marlo 615 Menzies 969 Longreach 376-8 Maroochy 338-40 Menzies, Robert 1040 328-9 167 Marrawah 694 Mereenie Loop Road

IND Lancelin 972-3 Lorne 541-2 Marree 806 49, 888 land rights 810 Low Head 679 Mary River 836 Merimbula 252-4 EX EX Langhorne Creek 744 Loxton 771-2 Mary River Billabong 836 Metung 611

L-M language 22, 1030 Luna Park, Melbourne 493 Maryborough 353-4 Middleton 749  Larapinta Drive 887-8 Milawa 594 Luna Park, Sydney 95-6, Marysville 528 Larapinta Trail 885-6 116 Maslin Beach 747 Mildura 557-62, 560 Larrimah 867 Mataranka 865-6 Milikapiti 833 Lasseter Highway 890-1 Millaa Millaa 444-5 M Mawson Trail 716 Launceston 669-77, 670, McArthur River 866 Millstream-Chichester Macarthur, John 1033 National Park 999-1000 672 McLaren Vale 744-6 accommodation 673-4 MacDonnell Ranges 884-7 Millthorpe 208 measures 1067 activities 669-71 Mackay 381-6, 383 mining 851 Maffra 610 medical services 1071, drinking 675-6 see also individual Mintabie 805 entertainment 675-6 401-5 locations Mintaro 780-1 festivals & events 673 Maguk 854 Meekatharra 976 Mission Beach 408-11 food 674-5 Main Beach 318-20 Melbourne 13, 478-522, Mitchell Plateau 1019 money 676 Malanda 444 480-1, 484-5, 489, Mittagong 222-3 shopping 676 Maldon 581 490, 492, 494, mobile phones 22, 1075-6 sights 669-71 Mallacoota 615-16 523, 13 Mole Creek 683-4 tourist information 676 Mallee 556 accommodation 501-5 MONA 12, 631, 12 tours 671-3 mammals 1049-51 activities 496-7 MONA FOMA 29 travel to/from 676 Mamukala 843 children, travel with 478 Monarto Zoo 769 travel within 677 Mandalay 954 drinking & nightlife money 22, 23, 1067, 1069, 511-15 Laura 468, 794 Mandorah 833 1073-4 emergency services 520 Laura Aboriginal Dance Mandurah 938 Monkey Mia 985-6, 56 Festival 30, 468 Manilla 198 entertainment 515-18 Montague Island 250 Laverton 970 Manjimup 951 festivals & events Moomba 806 499-501 Leeman 974-5 Manly 96-7, 96 Moonta 784-5 food 505-11 legal matters 1072-3 Mannum 769 Moran, Matt 109 history 478, 1034 Leigh Creek 799 Mansfield 590-2 Moree 203-4 internet access 520 Leliyn 861 Mapleton Falls National 311-16 internet resources 520 Lennox Head 183-4 Park 342 314-16 medical services 520 Leonora 970 Marble Bar 1004 Mornington Peninsula money 520 lesbian travellers 102, 516, Mareeba 440-1 529-31 725, 1070 Margaret River 944-5, 946 shopping 518-20 Mornington Peninsula Lesueur National Park 974 Margaret River Gourmet sights 478-96 National Park 531 Lightning Ridge 202-3 Escape 24, 32 tourist information 520 Mossman 451 Coast 761-6 Margaret River wine region tours 497-9 motels 1068 Limmen National Park 866 943-8 travel to/from 520-1 motorcycle travel 1084-90 Lincoln National Park 789 Maria Island National travel within 521-2 mountain biking, see Park 661 Lindeman Island 394 walking tour 498, 498 cycling Marion Bay 785 Lismore 193-4 Melbourne Aquarium 482 764-6 markets Melbourne Cricket Ground Mt Augustus 987 838-9 Adelaide 717, 721 487 Mt Arapiles 555 Little Desert National Park Brisbane 308 Melbourne Cup 32, 501, Mt Barker 959 556-7 Darwin 817, 830 1038, 1061 Mt Baw Baw 605-6 live music 27, 1030 Eumundi markets 333 Melbourne International Mt Beauty 599-600 Film Festival 31, 501 460 Kuranda Original Mt Buffalo National Park Melbourne Museum 490 lizards 1051 Rainforest Markets 596 438 Melrose 794 Mt Buller 592-3 Melbourne 519 Island 833 Mt Conner 890 Queen Victoria Market Map Pages Memory Cove 790 Mt Field National Park 000 482 Photo Pages Menindee Lakes 238 645-6 000 Salamanca Market 642 1101 Mt Hotham 601-3 Museum & Art Gallery of N Crater Lakes National Mt Hypipamee National the Northern Territory Nagambie 585 Park 443-4 816-17 Park 445 Namadgi National Park 273 Croajingolong National Museum of Australian Park 616-17 Mt Isa 374-5, 375 Namatjira, Albert 872, 887 Democracy, Canberra D’Aguilar Range National Mt Kosciuszko 219 Namatjira Drive 886-7 261 Park 291 Mt Lofty 742 Museum of Australian Nambucca Heads 170-1

Daintree National Park IND Mt Macedon 522 Democracy at Eureka Nambung National Park 13, 452, 13 Mt Molloy 434 572 973 D’Entrecasteaux National EX Mt Olga 896 Museum of Central Nannup 948 Park 949 Australia 871 M-N Mt Remarkable 794 Nardab Lookout 851 Devonian Reef National Mt Remarkable National Museum of Narooma 249-50 Parks 1019-20 Contemporary Art 74 Park 794 Nathan River Road 49-50 Dorrigo National Park Mt William National Park Museum of Sydney 83 National Film & Sound 172 668-9 Museum of Tropical Archive 261 Douglas-Apsley National Mudgee 213-14 Queensland 396 National Gallery of Park 665 Mulkas Cave 972 National Museum of Australia 259 Elsey National Park 865 multiculturalism 1039, Australia 261, 15 National Library of Errinundra National 1056 National Sports Museum Australia 24, 264 Park 614 Mundi Mundi 238 487 National Museum of Finke Gorge National National Wool Museum Australia 261, 15 Park 887-8 232-3, 28 536 national parks 1054 Fitzgerald River National Murphy’s Haystacks Newcastle Regional Alexander Morrison Park 960-1 791 Museum 149 National Park 973 Flinders Chase National Murramarang National Powerhouse Museum Badgingarra National Park 760-1 Park 251 85 Park 973 Flinders Ranges National Murrawijinie Cave 792 Queen Victoria Museum Barrington Tops National Park 797-9 Murray Bridge 769 & Art Gallery 670 Park 160 François Peron National Murray River 557-69, Queensland Maritime Ben Boyd National Park 985 Museum 287 768-74, 558-9 Park 255 Franklin-Gordon Wild Queensland Museum & Murray River National Ben Lomond National Rivers National Park Sciencentre 286 Park 772 Park 680 700-1 South Australian Murray-Darling Basin 1054 Blackdown Tableland Freycinet National Park Museum 717 663-5 Murray-Sunset National National Park 371 Sydney Jewish Park 556 Black Mountain National Girraween National Museum 91 Park 343 Murrumbidgee River Park 434 Tasmanian Museum & Corridor 273 Blue Mountains National Great Sandy National Art Gallery 627 Park 341-2 Murwillumbah 196-7 Park 136-43, 137, 51 The Rocks Discovery Gregory National Park Museum & Art Gallery of Booderee National Museum 76 864 the Northern Territory Park 247 Western Australian 816-17 Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) Hartz Mountains Museum – Albany National Park 464 National Park 651-2 Museum of Central 956 Australia 871 Booti Booti National Hat Head National Park Western Australian Park 159-60 167-8 Museum of Contemporary Museum – Geraldton Byfield National Park Hattah-Kulkyne National Art 24 977 369 Park 556 museums 1035, see Western Australian Cape Arid National Hinchinbrook Island also galleries Museum – Park 963 National Park 407 Australian Museum 77 Kalgoorlie-Boulder Hope Islands National Australian National 966 Cape Le Grand National Park 963 Park 461 Maritime Museum 88 Western Australian Innes National Park Australian War Memorial Museum – Maritime Cape Range National 785-6 258-9 927 Park 997 Iron Range National Canberra Museum & Western Australian Carnarvon National Park 469 Gallery 263 Museum – Perth Park 372 Jardine River National Gold Museum 571 910 Coffin Bay National Park 790 Park 470 Hyde Park Barracks music 27, 1030 Kakadu National Park Museum 84 Conway National Park 393 18, 841-4, 851-5, 842, Immigration Museum 238 , 482 Mutitjulu Waterhole 897 Coorong National Park 7 18 761-2 Kalbarri National Park Jewish Museum of National Park 980-3, Australia 495 157-9 Cradle Mountain-Lake St 981 Clair National Park 17, Karijini National Park Melbourne Museum 490 Myrtleford 596 701-5, 17 1000-3, 1001, 21 1102 national parks continued Nambung National Washpool National Norfolk Island 158 Keep River National Park Park 973 Park 201 Normanton 463 864-5 New South Wales 67 Watarrka National Park Normanville 747-8 Kinchega National Park Nitmiluk National Park 888-9 Nornalup 952-4 238 861-3 West MacDonnell Norseman 964 National Park 885-6 Kondalilla National 331 Northern Territory

IND Park 342 Western Australia 904 Northern Territory 811 807-900, 808-9, Kosciuszko National Paluma Range National Wilsons Promontory 834-5 EX EX Park 218 National Park 607-9, Park 405 accommodation 807 Ku-ring-gai Chase 608, 16 N-P Peak Charles National climate 807 National Park 97-8 Park 963 Wooroonooran National food 807 Lake Eildon National Point Nepean National Park 412 highlights 808-9 Park 587-90 Park 531 Wyperfeld National history 810 Lakefield National Park Porcupine Gorge Park 556 469 National Park 373 Yalgorup National Park North Stradbroke Island 312-14 Lamington National Park Porongurup National 938 328-9 Park 959-60 Yanchep National Park Nourlangie 852-3 Lesueur National Park Port Campbell National 972 Nowra 245-6 974 Park 545 National Portrait Gallery nuclear power 1053-4 Limmen National Park Purnululu National Park 260-1 Nullarbor Plain 964-5 866 1023 National Sports Museum Nundle 198 Lincoln National Park 789 Queensland 279 487 Nuriootpa 777-8 Litchfield National Park native foods 1057 838-9 133-4 Neighbours 500 Little Desert National Shannon National Park Nelly Bay 24 O Park 556-7 951 Nelson 550-1 Oakbank 743 Mapleton Falls National Simpson Desert National Nepabunna 800 Oatlands 657 Park 342 Park 50, 380-1 New England 197-202 Ochre Pits 886 Maria Island National Snowy River National New Norcia 975-6 octopus 1064 Park 661 Park 614 New South Wales 62-255, Oenpelli 855-6 Millstream-Chichester South Australia 711, 714 , Olgas, the, see Kata Tjuta National Park 64-5 134 Southwest National accommodation 62 Omeo 603-4 999-1000 Park 708 activities 67-9 Oodnadatta 805 Mornington Peninsula Springbrook National climate 62 Oodnadatta Track 49, 805 National Park 531 Park 328 Mt Buffalo National Park food 62 opals 802-3 Stirling Range National opening hours 1074 596-7 Park 960 highlights 64-5 Ora Banda 969 Mt Field National Park 239 history 66 645-6 Orange 206-8 Sydney Harbour National internet resources 63 Mt Hypipamee National Park 71 planning 63 Orbost 615 Park 445 Tamborine National tours 69 Ord Valley Muster 30 Mt Remarkable National Park 327 travel to/from 69-70 Ormiston Gorge 886 Park 794 Tasmania 622 travel within 69-70 Ormiston Pound 886 Mt William National Park Outback, the 21, 28, 668-9 Tathra National Park 973 Newcastle 149-54, 150 43-50, 21 Mungo National Park Newcastle Waters 867 155 Outback Way (Great 232-3, 28 Newman 1000 Torndirrup National Central Rd) 970-1 Murramarang National newspapers 1067 Park 959 outdoor activities 51-7 Park 251 Nguiu 833 Uluru-Kata Tjuta Overland Track 702 Murray River National Ngukurr 866 National Park 12, Park 772 891-900, 12 Nguyen, Luke 109 Murray-Sunset National Undara Volcanic National NGV International 483 P Park 556 Pacific Palms 159 Park 461-2 Nhill 557 Mutawintji National Nimbin 194-6 Palm Cove 436-7 Park 238 Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park Ninety Mile Beach 610, 762 Palm Valley 887 Myall Lakes National 800 Paluma Range National Park 157-9 Ningaloo Marine Park Walls of Jerusalem 996-7 Park 405 Namadgi National Park National Park 684 Para Wirra Recreation 273 Nitmiluk National Park Walpole-Nornalup 861-3 Park 778 National Park 953 Noah Beach 455 Parachilna 799 Map Pages 000 Warrumbungle National Noosa 331-4, 332 Parachilna Gorge 799 Park 204 Photo Pages 000 Noosa National Park 331 Parap Village Market 817, 830 1103 Parkes 211 internet access 923 Port Denison 976-7 Rapid Bay 749 parks & gardens medical services 923 Port Douglas 446-51, 447 Ravenshoe 445-6 Adelaide 718, 720-1 shopping 922-3 Port Elliot 749-50 Ravenswood 400 Alice Springs 874 sights 910-11 Port Essington 856 761 Australian National tourist information 924 Port Fairy 548-50 Red Centre Way 49, 887-9 Botanic Gardens 261-2 tours 912 Port Hedland 1003-4 Red Rock 179 Brisbane Botanic travel to/from 924 Port Lincoln 788-9 Redbank Gorge 886 IND Gardens 289 travel within 924-5 Port MacDonnell 765 Remarkable Rocks 760 City Botanic Gardens, EX Perth Institute of 161-6, Renmark 773-4

Brisbane 283 P-S Contemporary Arts 910 162-3 Renner Springs 867 Darwin 814, 817 Phar Lap 1038 Port Pirie 793-4 reptiles 1051 Fitzroy Gardens 488 Phillip Island 531-5, 532 Port Stephens 154-6 Richmond 644-5 Flagstaff Gardens 482 phonecards 1076 Port Vincent 785 road rules 1089 Flecker Botanic Gardens photography 1074 413 Port Willunga 747 Robe 762-4 Pigeon House Mountain Kings Park & Botanic Portland 550 rock art 1043-4, see 249 also Aboriginal art Garden, Perth 910, 17 Portsea 530-1 Pilbara, the 988-1004, Canberra 273 Mt Lofty 742 possums 1052, 1055 990-1 New South Wales 67 Port Augusta 786 postal services 1075 Pimba 801 Northern Territory 823, Royal Botanic Gardens, Powerhouse Museum 85 Pine Creek 840-1 841, 843-4, 848, Melbourne 491 public holidays 1075 Pinnacles Desert 973-4 851, 853, 855, 862, Royal Botanic public transport 1091 Pipers River 669 864, 895 Gardens, Sydney 76 Pularumpi 833 planning, see also Queensland 278, 441, South Bank Parklands Purnululu National Park 468 286 individual regions 1023 South Australia 797, 798 parliament houses Australia basics 22-3 Victoria 551, 553 Brisbane 283 Australia’s regions 58-60 budgeting 22-3 Q Western Australia 971, Canberra 260 972, 987, 998, 1018, internet resources quarantine rules 1073 Darwin 815 1019, 1020, 1022 22-3, 48 Queen Victoria Museum & Hobart 630 Rockhampton 366-8 itineraries 33-6 Art Gallery 670 Melbourne 483 Rockingham 937 repeat visitors 24 Queenscliff 523-5 passports 1081 Rocks, the 75-6, 78-9 travel seasons 22-3 Queensland 274-472, 276-7 payphones 1076 Roebourne 999 weather 43-6 accommodation 274 Peak Charles National activities 279-81 Roper Bar 866 Park 963 plants 1052 climate 274 Roper Highway 866 Pemberton 949-51 platypuses 1051 food 274 Rosevears 677 Penguin 687-8 New South Wales 169 highlights 276-7 Ross 657-8 penguins Queensland 275 history 278 Ross River 885 New South Wales 250 Tasmania 677, 686 information 282 Ross River fever 1065, 1071 Tasmania 666 Victoria 527, 554 internet resources 275 932-7, 934 Victoria 532 Plenty Highway 50 tours 275 Roxby Downs 801 Western Australia 937 Point Avoid 790 travel to/from 282 Royal Botanic Gardens, Penneshaw 755-6 Point Labatt 791 travel within 282 Melbourne 491 Penola 766-7 Point Lonsdale 525 Queensland Art Gallery Royal Botanic Penong 792 Point Nepean National Gardens, Sydney 76 Park 531 286 Perisher Blue 220-2 Royal Exhibition Point Quobba 988 Queensland Maritime permits 48, 812 Museum 287 Building 490 Point Samson 999 Perry, Neil 109 Queensland Museum & Royal Flying Doctor Service Point Turton 785 Perth 16, 907-25, 933, Sciencentre 286 Base 873 politics 1028-30 908-9, 914, 917, 17 Queenstown 696-7 Royal National Park 133-4 Porcupine Gorge National accommodation 912-16 quokkas 936 Rudd, Kevin 1028, 1040, Park 373 1041 activities 911-12 Quorn 794-6 Porongurup National Park rugby 1060 children, travel with 913 959-60 Rutherglen 567-9 drinking & nightlife Port Adelaide 721-5 920-1 R Port Arthur 655-7 rafting, see white-water emergency services 923 Port Augusta 786-93 rafting S entertainment 921-2 Port Campbell 545-6 rail travel 1091 safety 1064-5, 1075 festivals & events 912 Port Campbell National Rainbow Beach 352-3 driving 1089-90 food 916-20 Park 545 rainforests 1055 hiking 55 history 907, 1036 women travellers 1079 1104 sailing 54-5 Snowy Mountains 215-22 Bells Beach 540 Sydney Gay & Lesbian Airlie Beach 386 Snowy River National Blackfellows 790-1 Mardi Gras 30, 101 Great Barrier Reef 37-42 Park 614 Burleigh Heads 325 Sydney Harbour 70-1, Hobart 631 soccer 737, 1060 Byron Bay 186 116-19, 117, 122 Queensland 280 Sorell 654 Coffs Harbour 176 Sydney Harbour Bridge 71, , Sydney 98-9 Sorrento 530-1 Gold Coast 321 116 122

IND Sydney Harbour National Sydney to Hobart Yacht Sorry Day 1040, 1040 Goolwa 751 Park 71 Race 32, 627 South Australia 710-806, Innes National Park 785 EX EX Sydney Observatory 76 Tasmania 623 712-13 Kangaroo Island 752

S-T Sydney Opera House 11, 74, Whitsunday Islands 384 accommodation 710 Lancelin 972 10, 115, 122 Sandover Hwy 50 activities 714-15 Margaret River 945 Sydney to Hobart Yacht Savannah Way 866 climate 710 Maroochy 339 Race 32, 627 School of the Air 857, 873 highlights 712-13 New South Wales 69 Sydney Tower Eye 78, 81 , see diving & history 711 Perth 911 snorkelling tourist information 715 Port Elliot 749 sea lions 57 tours 715 Port Lincoln 788 T Tamar Valley 677-9 sea travel 1081-2 travel to/from 715-16 Port Macquarie 164 327-8 sea wasps 1064 travel within 715-16 Queensland 280-1 Tamborine National Park seafood 1056 South Australian Museum Robe 763 717 327 Sellicks Beach 747 Surfers Paradise 320 South Molle Island 393 Tamworth 197-200 September Beach 790 Sydney 99 South West Rocks 168-70 Tamworth Country Music Serpentine Gorge 886 Tasmania 623 Southport 318-20 Festival 29 Seventy-Five Mile Beach Torquay 539 347 Southwest National Park Tanami Road 50, 870, 1025 Western Australia 905 Shannon National Park 951 708, 2 Tasman Peninsula 653-6, Wollongong 243 Shark Bay 983-6 spiders 1064-5 653 Surfleet Cove 790 Shark Island 74 sports 19, 264, 487, Tasmania 618-709, 620-1, Swan Hill 562-3 , , , , sharks 1052, 1064 1060-2, see also 647 660 678 690-1 Swan Reach 769 706-7 Sheffield 685 individual sports Swansea 661-3 accommodation 618 Shepparton 585 Springbrook National Park 328 swimming 1061 activities 622-3 shopping, see markets, individual locations Standley Chasm 886 Queensland 281 climate 618 Silverton 237-8 Stanley 693-4 safety 1064 food 618, 626 Simpson Desert National Stanthorpe 343-5 Sydney 99 highlights 620-1 Park 50, 380-1 State Library of Victoria Tasmania 623 history 619 Simpsons Gap 886 483 Sydney 70-133, 72-3, tourist information skiing 53 Steep Point 984 80, 82-3, 85, 86-7, 624 Charlotte Pass 222 St Helens 667-8 90, 134 tours 624 Falls Creek 600-1 St Marys 666-7 accommodation 103-8 travel to/from 624-5 Mt Baw Baw 605 stingers 1064 activities 98-9 travel within 625-6 Mt Buffalo 596 Stirling 742-3 children, travel with 100 Tasmanian devils 655, 1055 Mt Buller 592 Stirling Range National drinking & nightlife 114, Tasmanian Museum & Art Park 960 123-6 Gallery 627 Mt Hotham 601-3 Stokes Bay 759 emergency services 130 Tasmanian tigers 655 New South Wales 68-9 Stolen Generations 1046 entertainment 126-7 Tathra National Park 973 Snowy Mountains 215, 221 Stone Hut 794 festivals 101-2 taxes 1074, 1080 Thredbo 219 Strahan 697-700 food 108-14 Tea Gardens 156-7 skydiving 821 Strathgordon 708-9 internet access 130 telephone services 22, 1075-6 slang 1030 Streaky Bay 791 medical services 130 television 1067 smoking 1067 stromatolites 983 money 130 Tennant Creek 867-9 snakes 1051, 1064 Strzelecki Track 49, 806 shopping 128-30 tennis 499, 1061 Snelling Beach 759 Stuarts Well 890 sights 70-98 Tenterfield 201-2 snorkelling, see diving & Sturt National Park 239 theatre 127 snorkelling Sunshine Coast 329-42, tourist information 130 The Rocks Discovery Museum 76 snowboarding 53 330 tours 99-101 theft 1065 Surfers Paradise 320-4, travel to/from 131 322 travel within 131-3 theme parks 25 surfing 54-5, 1061 319 Map Pages 000 walking tours 78-9, 93, Agnes Water 363 , Luna Park, Melbourne Photo Pages 000 79 93 Sydney Festival 29 493 1105 Luna Park, Sydney 95 Twin Falls 853 Warrumbungle National whaling 1051 319 Tylers Pass Lookout 887 Park 204 White Australia policy Warner Bros Movie 1037 World 319 201 White Cliffs 239 Wet ’n’ Wild 319 U Watarrka National Park Whitehaven Beach 393, Ubirr 851-2 Whitewater World 319 888-9 422 Uluru 894, 895-6, 895, 12 thermal springs, see hot water, drinking 1071-2 white-water rafting, IND springs Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Waterhouse River 865 see also kayaking &

Park 12, 891-900 EX Thornton Beach 455 Wave Rock 971 canoeing Ulverstone 686-7 New South Wales 69 Thredbo 219-20 weather 22, 29-32, 1049, T-W Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Three Sisters 137 1053, see also Queensland 281, 407, Park 840 individual regions 418 Three Ways 867 Umpherston 765 Weetootla Gorge 800 Tasmania 623, 700 Thursday Island 471-2 Undara Volcanic National 1067 Whitlam, Gough 1040 Tibooburra 238-9 Park 461-2 Weipa 469 Whitsunday Coast 381-95, tick typhus 1065 uranium mining 851, 1054 Wentworth 231-2 382 Tidbinbilla 273 West MacDonnell National 393-4 Tilba 251 Park 885-6 Whitsunday Islands 15, Timber Creek 864 V vacations 29-32, 1075 West MacDonnell Ranges 384, 392-4, 15, 26, 422 Timbertown 161 Valley of the Giants 953 885-7 Whyalla 788 time 22 Valley of the Winds 896 West Terrace Cemetery 24 wildflowers 973, 1052 time zones 1076-7 vegetarian travellers 1058 Western Australia 19, wildlife watching 20, 52-3, tipping 1057 901-1026, 902-3, 940, Venus Bay 791 1049-51, 1054-5, see Tiwi Islands 833-5 952-3, 990-1 also birdwatching, Victor Harbor 748-9 toilets 1077 accommodation 901 whale watching, zoos Victoria 473-617, 838-9 476-7 activities 905 Great Barrier Reef 37-42 accommodation 473 Tom Price 1000 climate 901 New South Wales 63, 169 climate 473 Tomaree National Park food 901 Northern Territory food 473 155 highlights 902-3 811, 837 highlights 476-7 Toowoomba 345-6 history 904, 1036 Queensland 275 history 475 Torndirrup National Park tourist information 906 Victoria 527 Victoria River Crossing 864 959 tours 905-6 William Creek 805 visas 22, 1072, 1077-8 Torquay 538-40 travel to/from 906 Williamstown 497 volunteering 1078-9 Torrens River Gorge 743 travel within 906-7 Willunga 746-7 Vulkathunha-Gammon Torres Strait Islanders Western Australian Wilpena Pound 797 Ranges National Park 1042 Museum – Albany 956 Wilson Island 363 800 Torres Strait Islands 471-2 Western Australian Wilsons Promontory tourist information 1077, Museum – Geraldton National Park 16, 607-9, see also individual 977 608, 16 locations W Wagga Wagga 227-9 Western Australian wine regions 26-7, 1059 tourist visas 1078 Waikerie 769-70 Museum – Adelaide 721 tours 1091, see also Kalgoorlie-Boulder 966 Walhalla 606-7 Adelaide Hills 740-4, 741 individual locations Western Australian walking, see bushwalking Barossa Valley 774-9, Tower Hill Reserve 548 Museum – Maritime walking tours 775, 18 Town of 1770 363-6 927 Brisbane 294, 294 Canberra 272 Townsville 395-401, 396 Western Australian Melbourne 498, Museum – Perth 910 Clare Valley 779-83 train travel 1091 498 Western River Cove 759 Coal River Valley 645 tramping, see bushwalking Sydney 78-9, 93, 79, 93 Wet Cave 768 Coonawarra 766-7 travel to/from Australia Wallace Rockhole 887 Granite Belt 343 1081-2 Wallaroo 784 whale watching 30, 57, 1051, 1055 Hunter Valley 145-9 travel within Australia Walls of Jerusalem 1082-91 National Park 684 Coffs Harbour 176 Kangaroo Island 755-6 travellers cheques 1074 Walpa Gorge 896 Hervey Bay 355 Margaret River 943-8 Triabunna 661 Walpole 952-4 New South Wales 69 McLaren Vale 714, 744-6 Trinity Beach 435-6 Walpole-Nornalup National Ningaloo Marine Park 997 Mudgee 213 Tropfest 29 Park 953 Perth 911 New South Wales 69 Tully 407-8 Wangaratta 586-7 Queensland 275 Orange 207 Tumby Bay 789 Wangi Falls 839 South Australia 714-15 Queensland 281 turtles 275, 361, 362, 995 Warren Conservation Sydney 101 Rutherglen 567 Park 778 Tweed Heads 194 Warrnambool 547 South Australia 18, 714 Warrnambool 547-8 Tasmania 623-4 Twelve Apostles 13, 547, 13 Western Australia 905 1106 wine regions continued Woolgoolga 179 Wynyard 692 Young 210 Wagga Wagga 227 Wooli 179 Wyperfeld National Park Younghusband Peninsula Western Australia 904-5 Woomera 801 556 761 Yarra Valley 526-8 Wooroonooran National Yourambulla Caves 797 Park 412 Yuendumu 870 Wineglass Bay 663 Y wineries, see wine regions Worimi Conservation yachting, see sailing Yulara 896-900, 898

IND Lands 155 Winton 376-8 Yackandandah 595 Yungaburra 442-3 Wodonga 569 work 1079-80

EX EX Yalgorup National Park New South Wales 69 Wolfe Creek Meteorite 938 Z W-Z Crater 1025 Northern Territory 812 Yallingup 943-4 zoos Queensland 282, 417 Wollongong 240-3, 241 Yamba 181-2 Adelaide Zoo 717-18 South Australia 773 WOMADelaide 30 Yanchep National Park Alice Springs 873 Tasmania 624 972 wombats 1050, 20 Australia Zoo 337 Victoria 562, 585 Yangie Bay 790 Wombeyan Caves 223 Monarto Zoo 769 Western Australia 906 Yankalilla 747 women travellers 1065, National Zoo & World Heritage sites 1053, 1079 Yarra Valley 526-8 Aquarium 264 1055 Wonambi Fossil Centre Yass 224 Rockhampton Zoo 366 767-8 WWI 1038 Yellow Water 853-4 Royal Melbourne Zoo 491 Woodend 522 WWII 813, 1039 Yeppoon 368-70 Werribee Open Range WWOOFing 1079 Woodford Folk Festival Yorke Peninsula 783-6 Zoo 501 342 Wye River 542 Yorkeys Knob 435 WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo 85 Woodside 743 Wyndham 1021

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 1092

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help- Charles-Rawlings Way ful hints, useful advice and interesting Huge thanks to Maryanne for the gig, and to anecdotes: our highway-addled coauthors, who covered a Sylvie Addor, Melissa-Kate Ashwell-Meijer, helluva lot of kilometres in search of the per- Dennis Balemans, Bettina Bergmann-Remy, fect review. Thanks also to the all-star inhouse Aida Bour, Nicola Broderick, Nico Bryant- LP production staff, and in Brisbane thanks Stevens, Raymond Chan, Jane Coffey, Patricia to Christian, Lauren, Rachel, Brett and all the Collé, Nicolas Combremont, Florian Cottez, kids. Special thanks as always to Meg, my Colin Davies, Richard Devlin, Anke Dijkstra, road-trippin’ sweetheart, and our daughters Silvia Disch, Missy Dugan, Lacroix Elodie, Ione and Remy who provided countless laughs, Maurici Espinar, Robert Eustace, Orly Flax, unscheduled pitstops and ground-level per- Stephen Gates, Sarah Hatherell, Len Kirby, spectives along the way. Yero Kuethe, Irina Kulina, Ellen Lemson, Jane Luckraft, Megan Mann, Jeroen Martens, Molly Massingham, Bruce McKay, Javier Meg Worby Mendez, Charlotte Middleton, Erica Minarik, Thank you Maryanne, for the gig! Big ups to Dagmar Moehring, Domitille Motte, Konrad the in-house team at LP for turning our many Nerger, Kim Niggemeyer, Kim Price, Christian weeks of exploration into a useful thing you can Proulx, Summer Read, Michael Reeves, Ilona hold in your hand. In Brisbane: huge thanks to Renwick, Bo Rud Nielsen, Elisabeth Schiske, Lauren, Christian, Orlando, Ilaria and friends Marianne Schmid, Trevor Scott, Rob Sea- for great company and insider tips. To our bourne, Justyn Shaw, Stine Skovgaard, Kevin little daughters, Ione and Remy, it was the Smythe, Heather Stafford, Johanna Teich- smoothest trip yet – nice work pulling your own mann, Steve Tervet, Marie Umbricht, Corrine suitcases! Love, as ever, to Charles – away and Van Vliet, Jeroen van Heeren, Melissa Verrier at home, you make hard work seem easy. Daunais, Timothy Wei, Alastair Weston, Jay Wiener, Malcolm Wilcock, Pennie Williams, Brett Atkinson Hansie Wong Thanks to the keen and professional staff at WA’s visitor centres who smoothed the way for information gathering, allowing me to focus on 1093 the vital task of taste testing the craft brew- lers. Thanks to Ron and Jan for their infinite eries of Margaret River. In Perth, thanks to hospitality and patience. And to Marina, Amanda Keenan for the pre-trip hit list. Spe- Carlota and Valentina – home is wherever cial thanks to my fellow scribe Steve Waters, you are. and also to the Lonely Planet inhouse team, especially Maryanne Netto for her support. Paul Harding Final thanks to Carol for holding the fort back Thanks to those who put me up or helped B home in Auckland. with tips and advice. Brian, Kerry, Martyn and EH Braidyn in Swan Hill; Matt, Simone, Xavier IND Lindsay Brown and Remy in Yack; Chad, Kylie, Amy, Parker

Thanks to Lizzie and Phoebe in Alice, and Will; Phil, Ashleigh and Dan in central Vic; T

Jenny, Sinead and Pat at home. Cheers to all mum and dad in Castlemaine. Thanks to co- HE the national parks rangers that put up with author Jayne. But mostly to my occasional my questions and the great staff at all the travel partners, Hannah and Layla. SC

Northern Territory visitor centres. Finally, E Shawn Low N thanks to Meg, Charles and Maryanne for E getting this whole show on the road. Thanks always to the crew at LP. Maryanne S for opening the door and Charles and Meg for Jayne D’Arcy illuminating the path through it. Of course, Sharik D’Arcy – you’ve done it again. Thanks thanks to the production staff, the heart for making all this possible and for letting me of everything LP! Cheers to innumerable take little Ruby and big Miles on the adven- travellers I met on the road: your tips, com- ture. Thanks for coming along, too. Thanks pany and advice were much appreciated. Of Miles for reminding me how cool koalas and course, thanks to Wyn for being so amazing. penguins are! Dave Carswell, James Smith and Matt Holden, kudos for sharing your Virginia Maxwell Melbourne with me, and all the wonderful Many thanks to Maryanne Netto, Diana von folk who made travelling a joy. Thanks to my Holdt, Charles Rawlings-Way, Meg Worby, coauthor Paul, and Maryanne for commis- Elizabeth Maxwell, Matthew Clarke, Bridget sioning me. Smyth, Christopher Procter, Peter Handsaker and Max Handsaker. Anthony Ham Thanks to Maryanne Netto for sending me to Tom Spurling such wonderful places, to David Andrew for Thanks to Maryanne Netto for getting me so many wise wildlife tips and to every person to go around again. High fives to Bob and I met along the road – from knowledgeable Bulldog for their political wisdom and for and patient tourist office staff to other travel- reminding me of my roots. To Adam D and

to Surf section in the Aus- Jenna Myers, Kirsten Rawlings, THIS BOOK tralia Outdoors chapter. This Gabbi Stefanos Lonely Planet’s guide to guidebook was commissioned Assisting Cartographers Australia was first published in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne Enes Bašić, Fatima Bašić, Jeff in 1977, when the company’s office, and produced by the Cameron, Mick Garrett, Corey cofounder Tony Wheeler following: Hutchison covered the entire country Commissioning Editor Internal Image Research on his own. In the 36 years Maryanne Netto Kylie McLaughlin since then we’ve sent literally Coordinating Editor Alison Thanks to Sasha Baskett, hundreds of authors around Ridgway Nicholas Colicchia, Brigitte Australia to check every dusty Senior Cartographers Julie Ellemor, Ryan Evans, Larissa nook and cranny of the world’s Sheridan, Diana Von Holdt Frost, Jane Hart, Martin Heng, largest island for Lonely Planet Trent Holden, Errol Hunt, guidebooks. This 17th edition Coordinating Layout Designer Carlos Solarte Genesys India, Jouve India, of the Australia guide com- Ali Lemer, James Maffesconi, bined the efforts of 11 fabulous Managing Editors Barbara Delissen, Martine Power Katherine Marsh, Virginia Lonely Planet writers. To see Moreno, Catherine Naghten, who did what, see Our Writers Managing Layout Karyn Noble, Darren O’Connell, Chris Girdler (p1112). We’d also like to thank Designer Trent Paton, Suzannah Shwer, the following people for their Assisting Editors Susie Rebecca Skinner, Kerrianne contributions to this guide: Ashworth, Penny Cordner, Southway, Marg Toohey, Sam Dr Michael Cathcart, Dr Tim Andrea Dobbin, Lauren Hunt, Trafford, Tasmin Waby, Gerard Flannery and Cathy Craigie. Anne Mason, Alan Murphy, Walker, Jeanette Wall Andrew Tudor wrote the Where 1094 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd family for the mad pancakes. To Goose and Colleen and Karen for dinner and great con- Pop for hanging out Noosa-style. To all the versation, Trace and Heath, Brodie, Abbidene, Queenslanders who helped us along without Meika and Kaeghan for EVERYTHING, Roz, any fuss. And to Lucy, Oliver and Poppy, who Megan and Batty for caretaking, Friz and Ian needs a holiday? Just keep on movin’. xo for putting up with me, and the Bung-Bung crew for, well, Bung-Bung. Steve Waters B

EH Thanks to Karen from RACWA for not hang- ing up, Mick for the tow, Leonie and Nev for ACKNOWLEDGMENTS IND beer and watermelons, Dave and Thuman of Illustration p118-19 by Javier Zarracina.

Djarindjin for the sand rescue, Travis for the T Cover photograph: Surfer, Tamarama Beach, HE drive shaft, John in the Subie for the WD40, New South Wales, Kokkai Ng, Getty Images ©.

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