Marin Conservation League Walk Into (Conservation) History #12 Saturday, September 22, 2012 Mt. Tamalpais

Marin Conservation League 1623–A Fifth Avenue, San Rafael, CA 94901 415.485.6257 marinconservationleague.org Marin Conservation League was founded in 1934 to preserve, protect and enhance the natural assets of Marin County. Marin Conservation League Walk Into (Conservation) History # 12 MT. TAMALPAIS—STATE PARK AND MMWD WATERSHED SEPTEMBER 22, 2012 – 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Introduction to In 2009, MCL initiated a series Walk Leaders: of Walks into lands in Marin that Nancy Skinner, Mt. Tam Interpretive Association Today’s Walk people with vision recognized Jack Gibson, Director, Marin Municipal Water District This year marks the Centennial would not survive for future Anniversaries of both Marin generations unless they were Arlin Weinberger, Mt. Tam Interpretive Association Municipal Water District (MMWD) permanently protected. Every acre Nona Dennis, Marin Conservation League and Tamalpais Conservation Club of public open space that we now Larry Minikes, Tamalpais Conservation Club (TCC). To help commemorate these enjoy is a testament to human effort events, Marin Conservation League and generous funding from many David Schnapf, Marin Conservation League (MCL) is pleased to conduct its 12th sources, but mainly to persistence. Karl Baeck, Mt. Tam Interpretive Association Walk into (Conservation) History Since its founding in 1934, MCL on Mount Tamalpais, affectionately has played a significant role in known as “Mt. Tam,” where the many of these stories, as either conservation efforts of thousands leader or partner. During the have converged to protect this decades in which Mt. Tamalpais remarkable natural eminence for was transformed gradually from the enjoyment of millions who visit private into public land, leaders the Mountain. like William Kent, TCC and MMWD The conservation history of Mt. Tam charted the course for saving Mt. is about some of the most beloved Tam and accomplished the first lands in Marin: Muir Woods, Marin major land acquisitions. MCL was Municipal Water District, Mt. Tam a partner in later campaigns to State Park, the Golden Gate complete Mt. Tamalpais State Park National Recreation Area and the and led the campaign to establish Marin Open Space District. While Marin County Open Space District, innumerable people were involved which began with the mountain’s in these efforts, one person, Northridge area. MCL also wrote a William Kent, stands above all set of criteria in 1966 that guided others in preserving the Mountain appropriate use of Mt. Tam for for future generations. many years.

Route of today’s Walk shown in orange. 2 Today’s Route mountain’s history, emphasizing At an elevation of about 2,600 Mt. Tam is a prime example of the those events and actions that feet, Mt. Tam is the quintessential Franciscan Formation, described Experiencing Mt. Tam’s history marked its conservation as public landmark of the inner Bay Area! by one geologist as a “complex, actually begins with the drive up land. The mountain consists of a primary disrupted assemblage – in other to the Rock Spring parking area three-mile-long ridge with three words, a heap of rubble . . . the at the junction of Pantoll Road and Views of Mt. Tam distinct peaks, of which the West upthrust from the grinding together Ridgecrest Boulevard. (See the list was tallest at 2,604 feet (before of tectonic plates.” Salem Rice, It is impossible to miss Mt. Tam of “noteworthy Mt. Tam spots to be 30 feet were shaved off for a eminent Marin geologist and from most vantage points in the seen on the drive and the walk.”) military base) and the East peak is former board member of TCC, Bay Area. To the Coast Miwok 2,571 feet. Several ridges descend once said of the mountain that “Any The walk route is from Rock who inhabited Southern Marin from the main ridge, among them two pebbles you pick up may have Spring to the Mt. Theater, then to for at least 8,000 years, it was Bolinas Ridge, Throckmorton Ridge, started a thousand miles apart.” Bootjack Camp by way of Easy inhabited by evil spirits. Mountains and Blithedale Ridge (Northridge). Grade Trail, on to West Point Inn were places of power inhabited Mt. Tam also plays a significant role The exact boundaries are hard by way of Old Stage Road, and by the supernatural and they were in controlling area precipitation. to define, but the mountain is returning on the Rock Spring Trail. to be avoided, although the lower The highest annual rainfall is on estimated to encompass anywhere slopes yielded acorns and other the north side – about 53 inches At several points along the way from 25,000 to 60,000 acres, vital plant food. Many years later, average annual rainfall at Lake we will share various pieces of the depending on one’s geography. Harold Gilliam, San Francisco Lagunitas, dropping to 30 to 40 Chronicle science writer for 50 inches on the south and west- View of Bon Tempe Lake and Lake years, described seeing Mt. Tam facing exposures. Compare this to Lagunitas from East Peak from the East Bay as “Vesuvius” average rainfall of 22 inches in rising above the Bay of Naples. For San Francisco. Several permanent Mill Valley, it stands as a kind of and seasonal creeks descend the sentinel, dominating almost every slopes, in particular the extensive view.

Flora of Mt. Tam—(L—R): Manza- nita (Arctostaphylos manzanita ), Chamise (Adenostoma fascicula- tum), Madrone (Arbutus menziesii)

Photo credits: Dru Parker, Dennis Marelli / Calflora, Beatrice F. Howitt © California Academy of Sciences Dru Parker 3 Lagunitas Creek watershed on the have been spotted on the mountain. north. Springs and creeks provided Sir Francis Drake was the first to water supply long before the first report on plants in Marin. Later of four dams was installed on a explorer-naturalists Douglas, branch of Lagunitas Creek in 1873. Menzies, Eschscholtz, Hartweg, and The variety of plant and animal life others are remembered for the on Mt. Tamalpais is extraordinary species named after them. and reflects its many microclimates For Alice Eastwood, Curator of and soils. Shrubby chaparral Botany at the California Academy species such as chamise and of Sciences from 1892 until 1949, manzanita predominate on the when she resigned at age 90, rocky south and east-facing slopes, Tamalpais was a favorite haunt. with oak, bay and madrone in She was known to trudge thirty ravines; redwood and fir are miles a day carrying heavy plant common on the north side and on presses on her back. John Thomas slopes that face the Pacific Ocean. Public Library Valley Room, Mill Little History of the Lucretia Courtesy Howell followed in her footsteps Broad exposures of serpentine and wrote the first comprehensive have created their own unique flora (Marin Flora, 1970, revised the old-growth redwoods in Muir flora. Mt. Tamalpais Interpretive in 2007). Vegetation has gone Woods, no original timber still Association (MTIA) estimates through notable shifts, however, as stands on Mt. Tam. that over 750 species of plants fire has been largely suppressed, grow there. Bobcats, foxes, deer, and invasive species like broom Pieces of History: raccoons, the occasional mountain have moved into disturbed lands, Conserving Mt. Tam lion and over 150 bird species especially those cleared for fuel breaks. With the exception of Tamalpais has been visited and used by explorers, loggers, hunters, dairy ranchers, hikers, artists, botanists, and tourists since the 19th century, and more recently runners and mountain bikers. In the 19th century it was exploited by hunters, Native fauna of Mt. Tam (L—R): who shot hundreds of deer for American badger(Taxidea taxus), commercial purposes, and loggers, Red-tailed hawk (Buteo jamaicensis), who cut timber for construction and Bobcat (Lynx rufus) for firewood, primarily from the lower slopes and gulches. Photo credits (all from flickr.com): Yathin, Danny Perez, Len Blumin Until the 1830s and ‘40s, Mt.

4 Tamalpais was split among four climb a few steps for refreshments holdings. In 1903 he called a (five according to some sources) at Tamalpais Tavern. 1902 saw meeting at Ross’ Lagunitas Club huge privately owned Mexican the advent of “gravity cars” which with the intention of promoting land grants. As pieces of the grants coasted down the mountain in 21 Mt. Tam as a national park. Kent’s were sold off, private ownership minutes. The growing use of the vision to establish a national park continued to prevail until the early Mountain by the public played a based on the Yellowstone model 20th century. considerable role in pushing the was prompted by his fear of what By the turn of the century, the transition of private to public land. might become of the mountain if it remained in private hands. As he mountain attracted more than William Kent hunters, loggers and dairymen. No one played a bigger role in stated in his speech at that meeting: Mill Valley had become a primary that transition than William Kent, “Never was such a spot for the destination for hikers from all over who came to Marin with his parents enjoyment of man. Never a spot the bay area who came to hike on in 1871. Lands donated or sold at where heedless exploitation (would) Mt. Tam. The opening of the Mill highly discounted prices by Kent work more loss. . .Subdivision, Valley & Tamalpais Scenic Railway were critical to the establishment building of houses, and ordinary William Kent in 1896 changed the history of of Muir Woods, MMWD, Mt. Tam so-called suburban improvements on the mountain almost overnight. State Park, and the Mountain Mt. Tamalpais will do more to ruin acres to today’s 559 acres. William Tourists could ride a steam train Theater. Like his father Albert, Marin county than any catastrophe Kent also played important roles as to the summit in less than an hour, William Kent invested in Marin imaginable.” leading advocate for establishment stroll around the East Peak, and real estate and amassed extensive of Marin Municipal Water District in Muir Woods 1912 and securing passage of the The national park didn’t John Muir district’s critical bond measure in materialize, but five years later, and William 1915. In the same year, 1912, he Kent seated, in 1908, Kent saved Redwood also sponsored the first organizing J.H. Cutter, Canyon and, with it, the last meeting of TCC. first presi- stand of old growth redwoods dent of the Marin Municipal Water District Tamalpais in Marin from being flooded Conserva- for a reservoir. He was able to The movement to publicly own tion Club, persuade President Theodore and operate a municipal water standing, Roosevelt to take advantage of district started as early as 1908 in front of the Act for the Preservation of with citizens who complained of Muir Woods excessively high water rates and Inn around American Antiquities and accept 1912; the Redwood Canyon as a donation to inadequate water service provided edge of the the federal government. Thus Muir by the twenty-some small private railroad Woods National Monument became water companies on the mountain, track is just the first public park land in Marin. many of them subsidiaries of real visible at the estate developers. With William lower left. Over 80 years, the Monument Courtesy of the Lucretia Little History Room, Mill Valley Public Library expanded from the initial 295 Kent as a leading proponent, voters 5 overwhelmingly approved the new at Rock Spring, 879 members Marin Municipal Water District, the had joined. TCC held its first first municipal water district to be clean-up day on Tam in March chartered in California. In 1915, 1912 and immediately became the MMWD Board asked voters to active in maintaining trails, signs, approve a $3,000,000 bond issue and building trails. The mission to finance acquisitions, promising statement of TCC still stands: the advantages of publicly owned “Conservation of things animate and economical water supply as and inanimate in Marin County well as the permanent preservation California, and particularly the of Mt. Tamalpais. They were preservation of scenic beauties and successful in spite of stiff opposition fauna of Mt. Tam and its spurs and from the private water companies. slopes.” The TCC’s first major battle Over the ensuing years, the district was to ban hunting, and in 1917 has doubled to encompass the they prevailed in establishing a Public Library Valley Room, Mill Little History of the Lucretia Courtesy present 21,500 acres, 18,500 of State Mt. Tam Game Reserve. Their By 1928 the first 531 acres had George Leonard, were acquired, to which are within the Mt. Tamalpais long-term goal, however, was to been secured, creating California’s complete the present 6,300 acres. watershed. create a Mt. Tamalpais State Park. first official State Park. William Mountain Theater and Tamalpais Conservation Club Mt. Tamalpais State Park Kent donated another 138 acres Mountain Play It was no coincidence that TCC was It took almost 60 years from of former Mt. Tamalpais & Muir The exact origin of the idea to formed in the same year as the the early dreams of a park to Woods Railway land, and on the stage plays on Mt. Tam is not fully water district. Hikers desperately assemble the pieces that now eve of his death in March 1928, known. It is known that William wanted access to the greater part make up Mt. Tam State Park. The he donated 204 acres of Steep Kent owned the site of the natural of the mountain that would fall County’s 1926 plan for Panoramic Ravine. Although controversial from amphitheater at 2,000 foot within the public water district. Highway from Mountain Home the beginning, Panoramic Highway elevation and deeded 5.7 acres Therefore the fledgling TCC was to Stinson Beach and the threat was opened October 21, 1928. to the Mountain Play Association highly supportive of the public of development of lands owned The Park was further enlarged in memory of his friend Sidney B. district’s formation, later helping by James Newland and William with addition of 376 acres of Diaz Cushing, after whom the theater MMWD to pass the bond issue. Magee that the highway would Ranch to the south, and in 1968, is named. The first play, the Hikers also were prompted to cross galvanized the TCC to the 2,150 acre Brazil ranch, in 13th century drama “Abraham organize to combat the mess left actively campaign for the park. a deal that precipitated its own and Isaac”, was held on May 4, by hunters—specifically the sight of TCC solicited contributions from firestorm, was purchased by the 1913, for an audience of twelve hunters carving a deer carcass. all the hiking clubs, and, with an State. In all, Kent and his heirs were hundred—most of whom had hiked assured State match of 2:1 plus responsible directly or indirectly 133 hikers, including William Kent, there, some taking the Mt. Railway other support, eventually was able for donations of almost 1,000 attended the organizing meeting and walking from West Point. Until to raise funds for purchase of the acres. Finally, 1,311 acres west of on February 27, 1912, in Kentfield. 1930 the theater was surrounded By the first annual meeting in May land. Ridgecrest Boulevard, owned by 6 by MMWD lands and new Mt. Tamalpais State Park. In 1936 COMING UP it was turned over to the State Park as a condition for a Civilian Conservation Corps construction Friday, September 28 project. 5,000 serpentine stones, 7:30—9:00 am up to two tons each, were quarried from the north side of Tam and transported to form 40 rows of Business— seats 300 feet long, emulating Environment classic Greek theaters. Productions have continued to the present day, Breakfast with limited interruption in 1924 and during the World War II years “The Marin 1942-45. Carbon Project” Criteria for Decisions on Uses of Mt. Tamalpais Speaker: Project Director Conservationists were alarmed Dr. Whendee Silver Nona Dennis when a proposal to build a five- mile railway to begin at Mountain principles for “preserving this and extractive uses like logging Embassy Suites Home to the top of Mt. Tam, with a irreplaceable resource for public and hunting no longer apply, line to Muir Woods, was presented enjoyment for all time”. It provided does not relieve guardians of the 101 McInnis Parkway, at a MCL board meeting in 1966. guidelines on which subsequent mountain like TCC, or MMWD or San Rafael It would include a repair shop plans (later, aerial tramways from the State Park or MTIA, MCL, and at Double bow-knot, ticket office Baltimore Canyon in Larkspur, and many others from the obligations Ticket price: and parking lot to be cut into the another originating in Fairfax) of active management and $25 for MCL members mountain, and a lodge and coffee could accepted or denied. It was maintenance. Even as conditions $30 for non-members house and bar on the site of the adopted by numerous conservation such as vegetation, wildlife and old burned tavern. The MCL Parks organizations and by all adjacent climate bring on changes, new Committee studied and denied towns and communities that abut issues associated with Mt. Tam’s Register at plan, and to prevent future plans Mt. Tam. popularity as a recreational marinconservationleague. of this nature, the committee The Present destination will continue to arise. org prepared a comprehensive The need to protect Mt. Tam We owe it to the generations who or call 415-485-6257 brochure – Criteria for Decision on from being “loved too much” saved the mountain to keep their Uses for Mt. Tam. Written by Nello dreams alive. goes on. The fact that most of Walk Into (Conservation) History —Mt. Tamalpais Kearney, committee chair from ©2012 Marin Conservation League the mountain is publicly owned Text by Nona Dennis and David Schnapf Mill Valley, the brochure contained Design and production by Dru Parker 7 Noteworthy Mt. Tam spots seen on drive and walk Drive remodels, but has remained a landmark. A—East Peak E—Bootjack At an elevation of 2571 ft. Originally the site of a (784m) the East Peak is the “top” campground, the Bootjack is of Mt. Tam, visible throughout A now one of the main parking the Bay Area. The “Gardner Fire K and picnic areas in Mt. Tam Lookout,” built by the Civilian I State Park. Beginning in Conservation Corps in the 1922, prior to the formation G H 1930s, sits on top of the peak E of the park, the Tamalpais and remains in use. Mt. Tam’s C Conservation Club (TCC) West Peak was about 30 feet taller maintained its “Trailman’s until 1950 when it was bulldozed F Cabin” at Bootjack camp. The for a military installation. The cabin, home to a “trailman- spectacular bird’s eye views from B patrolman” employed by East Peak have made it a popular TCC, has taken over by the destination since the construction park, expanded and remains of the Mt. Tam railway in 1896. in service. Another nearby B—Panoramic Highway cabin was owned by Matt The “Mill Valley – Stinson Davis, an early member of Beach Road,” now known as TCC known as “The Dean the Panoramic Highway, was of Trailworkers.” Camping at opened in 1928, shortly after Mt. Bootjack continued into the Tamalpais State Park was formed. C—Alpine Club was acquired in 1925, and has 1960s. The proposal to construct the Founded in 1913 as an offshoot gone through some expansions and F—Pantoll road came at the same time efforts of the San Francisco YMCA, the remodels since then. The Panoramic Highway from Mill to establish the State Park were Alpine Club of California has been D—Mountain Home Inn Valley to Stinson Beach, reaches underway. The highway proposal actively involved with Mt. Tam since Located on the Panoramic Highway its crest at Pantoll, which is the was highly controversial and was its formation. From its earliest days, just as the road enters Mt. Tamalpais site of a ranger station, the State opposed by many conservation the Alpine Club sponsored hikes on State Park, the Mountain Home in Park Headquarters, a campground, groups. Ultimately, a compromise the mountain, and actively worked was founded in 1912 near the Mt. parking and many of the area’s was reached to proceed with both towards preserving it as public lands. Tam railway by a Swiss-German best hiking trails. The “Pantoll” or the road and with formation of the Its lodge on Panoramic Highway, couple. Over the years the Inn has “Southside” road, built in 1930, State Park. near the entrance to the state park, gone through several owners and leads up the mountain from Pantoll 8 where it intersects Ridgecrest Blvd. 1913, in the vicinity of Rock Spring, to Stinson Beach follows much of built in 1896, operated from Mill The tollbooth for the was located near the current location of the the original route of the Old Stage Valley (West Blithedale) to the top here. Pantoll is an abbreviation for Mountain Theater. In 1916, William Road. of Mt. Tam until 1930 when fire, “Panoramic Highway Toll Booth.” Kent, who was involved with the J—West Point Inn the great depression and the growth first performance, donated the land G—Rock Spring/Ridgecrest Blvd. The historic West Point Inn was of automobile use caused its demise. for the theater. The current theater, The Rock Spring parking area, at built in 1904 as a stopover and With 281 curves, the railway was which seats 4,000, was built in the intersection of Pantoll Road restaurant on the Mill Valley/Mt. touted as the “Crookedest Railway the 1930s. It is also known as the and Ridgecrest Blvd. on MMWD Tamalpais Railway line. Named in the World.” The steady grade “Cushing Memorial Amphitheater,” lands, provides access to many of after the fact that it is located at the allowed passengers to coast from named after Sidney Cushing. The Mt. Tam’s most popular hiking trails westernmost point of railway, the the top of the Mountain downhill Mountain Play Association, one and picnic destinations. Ridgecrest Inn provides panoramic views of the in “Gravity Cars.” A spur line led of the oldest non-profit theater Blvd., which extends from the East Bay, San Francisco, the Marin from the “double bow knot,” above companies in the country, produces Fairfax – Bolinas Road to the East Headlands and the Golden Gate the Mountain Home Inn, to Muir widely popular plays at the Peak, was completed in 1925, prior Bridge from its porch and grounds. Woods. After the railroad was Mountain Theater each year. to the construction of the Panoramic Located on Marin Municipal abandoned and the track removed, Highway, and provided the first I—Old Stage Road Water District lands, the Inn is the railroad grade became the major automobile access to the top of Tam. The “Old Stage Road” from Pantoll now operated by the nonprofit fire road up the south side of the

to West Point Inn is the last remnant West Point Inn Association, and is Mountain. In the 1960s a proposal Walk of a stage road, built in 1902, available for overnight stays. to rebuild the railway and construct a new lodge/restaurant at East Peak H—Mountain Theater that extended to Stinson Beach. A K—Railroad Grade portion of the road, from Pantoll was successfully opposed by MCL “Abraham and Isaac”, the first The Mt. Tamalpais Scenic Railway, and other conservation groups. Mountain Play, was performed to above Bootjack is paved. The Panoramic Highway from Pantoll almost 100 years ago on May 4, Scene from the 1914 Mountain Play, “Shakuntala”

Rock Spring Junction, circa 1929 Courtesy of the Lucretia Little History Room, Mill Valley Public Library Valley Room, Mill Little History of the Lucretia Courtesy Library Free Marin of the County Courtesy 9 This Walk Into (Conservation) History has been made possible by these sponsors of Marin Conservation League’s “75th Anniversary Celebration”

MOUNTAIN LION $2500 or more LUPINE $100—$249 Friends of Susan Adams Bunker & Company Janet Allen Juliette Anthony Ken Drexler & Sarah Leach Bartlett Tree Experts Amy Belser COOPER’S HAWK $1000— $2499 Betsy & Dan Bikle Derek & Tymber Cavasian Marin County Board of Supervisors Phyllis Faber, in memory of Peter Behr Marin County Parks Bruce Fullerton & Antonina Markoff Redwood Landfill, Inc. Barbara George Jana Haehl League of Women Voters of Marin ELK $500 — $999 Joan Lubamersky Angel Island Association Sue MacMillan, in memory of Alex MacMillan Bank of Marin Marjorie Macris Marin Fence Co. Nona Dennis Barbara & Bernie Meyers Cordy Hill, in memory of Robert Royston Ellen & Peter Obstler Jack Krystal Ira Chin & Michelle Passero Edith Piltch Marin Sanitary Service Seagate Properties, Inc. Nardell Chitsaz & Associates Jean Starkweather Susan & Brian Stompe BAY LAUREL $250 — $499 Judge Faye D’Opal & Wanden P. Treanor Julia Violich Bruce Dodge & Wendy Wyse Doug Wilson & Periann Wood Barbara Ford Jan Hamrin & Tim Rosenfeld Paul Helliker Kathy & Rick Lowrey McPhail Fuel Co. Dudley & Sarah Allen Miller Dorothy & Roger Roberts Grace & Larry Smith Protecting Marin Since 1934 10