global kitchen.

Join Matt Preston as he is seduced by the flamboyant charm of , then recreate the unique flavours at home with three Argentinian-inspired dishes to share.

words matt preston location photography catherine sutherland recipes phoebe wood photography ben dearnley food styling kristen wilson

The grand Algodon Mansion. Opposite: the very cool Tegui offers lush desserts.

138 delicious. globalglobal kitchen.flavours.

delicious. 139 global kitchen.

The grand boulevards of Buenos Aires Don Julio (Guatemala 4691 y Gurruchaga, with loads of street tables and a cavernous give it a European feel, yet it is still very Palermo) for its cool air, leather tablecloths warehouse interior. Try these dishes with much a American city. Soccer, steak and the fact that it’s usually packed with a bottle of local malbec: the pork loin on and sexy dance moves might sum up locals rather than groups of Texas apples, or the fat, kranksy-like a tourist view of ’s capital, but grandmothers. Food is the classics: plump and a gooey morcilla loaded with allspice. the reality is very different. I discovered sweetbreads, good meaty and You’ll also find a number of barbecue a wonderful culture of inexpensive food great ribs. The rib eye (lomo) and skirt street shacks around the parks of Buenos and a vibrant bar scene. There is also steak (entraña) are also delicious. The old Aires. These serve grilled meat in a roll a growing number of young, well- owner’s son now runs the place. He was a with the usual options of tangy, herby travelled chefs championing a very sommelier, and it shows in a fine wine list chimichurri and salsa criolla (a sort of modern look at the country’s cuisine. loaded with some great malbecs at decent and salsa). Favourite choices here prices, and good malbecs at cheap prices. are fatty flank steak (vacío) and pork steak houses Lo de Jesus (Gurruchaga 1406, Palermo) First let’s bust Buenos Aires’ biggest myth. is another winner. The complete range of While many rave about its beef culture, by cow bits found in most asado (barbecue) our standards the steak here can be joints are on show, but in our opinion it’s disappointing. The meat might be tender, the best place to come for chitterlings – the but it’s seldom aged so can be lacking in intestines are turned inside out so the fat flavour, and to make matters worse it’s of the inside walls crisps on the grill, and usually served well done! The barbecue or are stuffed with herbs and . “asado”, however, does has a special place Parrilla Miranda (Costa Rica y Fitz in Argentine society as something that Roy, Palermo Hollywood) is a cool grill families all get together to do, especially on a Sunday, and it’s also is a link to romantic notion of the noble gaucho celebrated in Argentine popular literature. When it comes to Buenos Aires’ parrillas (the “ll” is pronounced “ssh” by the city’s native Porteños) or grills, we love Parrilla

140 delicious. global flavours.

Clockwise from left: Matt Preston; Tegui’s sleek interior; slow-cooked egg with asparagus at Hernán Gipponi Restaurante; La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar; street sign in La Boca. Opposite: the Plaza del Congresso.

shoulder (bondiola), but no trip to Buenos Aires is complete without a choripán, which is chorizo , grilled, split and stuffed in a crusty roll. One of the best comes from the Parrilla Mi Sueño (Avenida Costanera Sur, puesto 11). modern fare With a a mysterious graffitied entrance, a striking wall painted in wide black-and- white stripes and tall windows looking Patagonian prawns (wow, so sweet!) with onto palms, Tegui (Costa Rica 5852, a sesame, pink grapefruit and nasturtium Palermo) would be one of the coolest salad; or a slow-cooked egg with rich places to eat in town even without reduced chicken stock and shaved its exciting menu. Signature ingredients asparagus. It’s one of my personal Buenos and runny fried, -wrapped, gooey star, such as sweetbreads and beef, but Aires favourites. eggs with an intense pure chicken stock; with a twist: the former comes with With its bare wooden tables, polished or a salad of frozen greens, inspired by mushrooms, the warmth of hazelnuts and concrete floor and burgundy painted Alejandro’s memory of waiting for the the freshness of apple, while the latter is walls, you might expect rustic bodega school bus in a frosty vegetable garden. slices of almost creamy veal tenderloin cooking at La Vineria de Gualterio It’s called Ensalada 6:55am – the time the with potatoes and a bright tangy Bolivar (Bolivar 865, San Telmo), but bus was due! chimichurri. For dessert, an intense that’s far from the reality of this avant- The name Chez Nous (Algodon ‘chocolate bar’ with tea jelly, blackberries garde degustation spot. Chef Alejandro Mansion, Montevideo 1647, Recoleta) and yoghurt sorbet is a fun way to finish. Digilio is one of the most interesting cooks might scream fiddly French, but chef For this alone, Tegui is a must on any in the city. His commitment to daring, Antonio Soriano is rapidly moving the Buenos Aires itinerary. delicate little dishes for his 20 guests each menu in a far more exciting, modern Hernán Gipponi Restaurante (Fierro night is almost as shocking in Buenos direction. The focus is now on carefully Hotel, Soler 5862, Palermo) combines an Aires as his passion for herbs and sourced local ingredients (lamb from understated, rather masculine dining vegetables, rather than the more common Santa Cruz, suckling pig from San Rafael, room with feminine dishes that appear on monstrous meat platters. However, there goat’s made in-house), interesting white tablecloths. Think an amuse of is still a sense of place here, with plates, and bold flavour combinations. a tiny crisp brik pastry triangle filled with combinations such as silverbeet ravioli Rice two ways – crispy in a rice cake and a smooth, capsicumy chorizo filling; little with bone marrow; deliciously crunchy creamy in – served with baby

delicious. 141 Clockwise from left: the chic El Bistro; global flavours. Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, built by Jesuits in 1716; El Obrero, much loved for its cucina povera; Chila chef Soledad Nardelli; Bar Seis’ medialuna.

inspiration and unusual ingredients. For Not all of Buenos Aires’ modern places example, carob-like ground algarroba are swanky and expensive. The high- pods pop up as a crispy tuile on a hazelnut ceilinged Bar Seis (Armenia 1676, dessert with cream-cheese ice cream. Palermo), with its rich velvet sofas and Wow! Where else in the world can you rough wooden furniture, is set among the squid stuffed with intense braised oxtail eat your dinner under the watchful gaze designer shops of Palermo Soho, which is and a dashi stew is one of the most of 14 life-sized unicorns? El Bistro’s a great area for shoes, bags and fashion. memorable things to eat in Buenos Aires. (Faena Hotel + Universe, Martha Salotti There’s pavement seating or a small rear Chila (Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160, 445, ) opulent white, courtyard for warm days, and a simple Puerto Madero) is a sleek and smart Philippe Starck designed dining room is menu of , salads and fresh restaurant and a contender for the city’s the most over-the-top in Buenos Aires, juices – try the pear, coriander and lime. best fine-dining experience. Chef Soledad but the mood is like eating in a fancy A coffee or submarino (hot milk with Nardelli is one of the young stars of the Michelin establishment. Even beef with chunks of chocolate) and a medialuna restaurant scene in Buenos Aires, and her chimichurri will arrive on a large gilt- (a cross between a croissant and brioche) menu demonstrates a classical French edged show plate. Before dinner, take makes a light local breakfast. It might be training that’s increasingly flecked with drinks by the pool or in the large bar. the only light meal you eat all day.

142 delicious. Un’ Altra Volta offers tempting sweets and dreamy ice creams.

El Cuartito, a institution for 80 years. Left: empanadas at Pedro Telmo.

You’ll also need to try Argentina’s other national pastry – the empanada. There’s El Sanjuanino (Posadas 1515, Recoleta), El Cuartito’s spinach and bechamel a rough-and-tumble bodega with a dozen . Above: Pizzeria Guerrin. or so different empanadas. All are suitably thin-skinned in the pastry department. Standouts include an oregano-infused authentic flavours mild meat one, the cheese and onion, or a Opened for the workers of La Boca in spicy meat one with and egg. They 1910, there’s nothing fancy about El and just let chef Luis Acuña cook for also make a meaty locro (corn, tripe and Obrero (Agustín R Caffarena 64,L a Boca), you. You might get stuff from the grill or chorizo stew) and matambre, if you want a a much-loved local institution down by the kitchen, but either way, local friends full feed. Don’t miss out on one of the best the old docks. The blackboard menu is swear by this place. desserts we had in the city – a crispy puff long on cucina povera classics, taken from Pizza has its own unique character in pastry stack layered with dulce de leche. a time when the best cuts were exported. Buenos Aires. It comes on a fat, doughy The other contender for best empanadas To start, there’s the BA favourite, matambre, base and the locals love it. For a manic is the equally creaky Pedro Telmo (Bolivar thinly sliced, housemade, rolled flank atmosphere, jostle shoulders with the 962, San Telmo), located just around the steak stuffed with hard-boiled eggs and office workers at Pizzeria Guerrin corner from San Telmo’s covered flea carrots. More substantial are steaks from (Avenida Corrientes 1368, Centro). market. Here, the spicy empanadas stuffed the grill and – inspired by La Boca’s Eat a slice of the cheese and onion pizza with greens or the sweetest corn kernels original Genovese settlers – such as called fugazza and drink a glass of dark, are especially good. For a quick breakfast, sorrentinas, plump circular ravioli, stuffed sweet muscat. Calmer but equally good is try their dense medialuna with their with gooey , and a rich tomato El Cuartito (Talcahuano 937, Centro) scorched sugar tops, perfect with a sauce. Bookings are a must, and take a cab where for almost 80 years, locals have milky sweet coffee. as the area has a seedy reputation. come for fugazza and a golden, bechamel- For the best medialuna, however, made For another wonderful cheap meal, try topped pie of braised greens in a pizza with either lard or butter, head to swanky local favourite El Pobre Luis (2393 crust. A longneck of Quilmes local beer Recoleta and the patisserie Dos Escudos Arribenos, Belgrano). Ignore the menu completes a perfect Porteño picture! (Montevideo 1690, Recoleta). global flavours.

Clockwise from above right: turquoise blue building in San Telmo; the quirky Home Hotel; dine in style at Cafe Tortoni: relax where to stay in the garden at Fierro Hotel. The eclectic Home Hotel (Honduras 5860, Palermo Hollywood, homebuenosaires.com, from $135 (plus tax) a night with breakfast) Buenos Aires also has a venerable cafe is notable for its collection of retro and society. Cafe Tortoni ( Scandinavian furniture, and its love affair 825/9, Rivadavia), founded in 1858, with vintage wallpaper. The rooms, suites helped earn the city the title of Paris of and lofts share the same quirky feel and South America, and Las Violettas (Avenida are well equipped, and you can hang out Rivadavia 3899, Esquina Medrano) is at the pool and deck if you need some another Art Nouveau-inspired tea room downtime. And, yes, it does feel like home where you’ll find slightly daggy BA the other side of the tracks at Palermo – if home were a lot cooler. classics, such as crustless white finger Hollywood speakeasy Frank’s (Arévalo The fabulous boutique Fierro Hotel sandwiches and Italian-style biscuits. 1445) or, on Friday nights, at the garden (Soler 5862, Palermo, fierrohotel.com, Dulce de leche caramel is everywhere bar of Home (Honduras 5860, Palermo from $175 (plus tax) a night) has a verdant in Buenos Aires. Sandwiched between Hollywood). In Recoleta, visit Buenos garden and rooftop plunge pool. The shortbread in the national cookies, Aires’ first wine bar, Gran Bar Danzon rooms are generous and modern, with alfajores, stuffed into crepes or even (Libertad 1161, Recoleta), which boasts free wi-fi, large beds and a comfy sitting flavouring the city’s excellent ice creams. some of the city’s best bartenders, or area, and the staff will help you book Try the dulce de leche ice cream at Un’ Milion (Paraná 1048, Recoleta) with its everything from football tickets to tables Altra Volta, just a stone’s throw from the garden at the back of a grand converted in obscure ‘closed door’ restaurants. The gates of Recoleta’s famous cemetery. mansion. For something more idiosyncratic Fierro is also home to Hernán Gipponi’s at night, try Bar Doppel (Avenida Juan de cool restaurant (see Modern Fare). where to drink Garay 500, San Telmo). Algodon Mansion (Montevideo 1647, Buenos Aires is blessed with some really Red wine lovers are well served at Recoleta, algodonmansion.com, from excellent bars. Swing by Ocho7Ocho Palacio Duhau Vinoteca under the $435 (plus tax) a night) has kept the (Thames 878) – the cocktails are elegant Park Hyatt ( 1661, grandeur of its beautifully restored 1912 and not too sweet, the mood is grungy Recoleta), with its older vintages – most mansion, with rooms to match, but also and cool, and the back bar is the place to lists around town are very young – and a has the intimacy that so many chain places be. At the other end of the scale is the well-stocked cheese room, or Aldo’s miss – no matter how many stars they super-swank Isabel Bar (Uriarte 1664, (Moreno 376, San Telmo), which has its might claim. The suites are large, opulent Palermo Soho), which is all statement walls lined with 500 very well-priced and a definite treat, and there’s a great shoes, booths and bottle service. Head to bottles of local wine. deck and small rooftop pool.

144 delicious. eggplant escabeche Serves 10-12

1.5kg eggplant, peeled, cut into 10cm batons sliced 1cm thick 3 tbs flakes 2/3 cup (165ml) extra virgin oil 1 tsp coriander seeds 2 tsp fennel seeds 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1/2 cup (125ml) lemon juice 1/2 cup (125ml) red wine vinegar Fugazza. Left: eggplant 2 tsp caster sugar escabeche. 1 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus extra to serve Sourdough croutons, to serve and cook for 1-2 minutes until heated Place yeast and sugar in a bowl and add through. Cool completely, then stir 3/4 cup (185ml) tepid water and stir to Place the eggplant in a colander and toss through the parsley. Store in a sterilised combine. Set aside for 5 minutes until with the salt. Sit the colander over a bowl jar for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator, foamy. Stir in flour and oil and 1 tsp salt, and set aside for 2 hours. Rinse with cold and serve with sourdough croutons then transfer to an electric mixer fitted water and drain on paper towel. and extra parsley. with a hook and knead for 8-10 Heat half the oil in a large non-stick minutes until smooth and elastic. Transfer saucepan over medium-high heat and fugazza to a clean, lightly oiled bowl and leave to add half the eggplant. Cook, stirring, Makes 2 rise for 30 minutes until doubled in size. for 8-10 minutes until softened but not Preheat to 220°C. Put 2 pizza coloured. Remove using a slotted spoon 7g sachet dried yeast stones in oven, or grease 2 trays. and repeat using remaining 1/3 cup (80ml) Pinch of caster sugar Knock back dough and divide into oil and eggplant. Remove and set aside. 21/3 cups (350g) ‘00’ flour 2 pieces. Roll out into two 28cm rounds. Add the coriander and fennel seeds 1 tbs Remove pizza stones from oven and place and garlic to the pan and cook, stirring, 400g grated mozzarella a pizza round on each. Top pizzas with the for 1-2 minutes in the residual oil until 300g grated and half the dried oregano and fragrant. Add the lemon juice, vinegar 1/2 tsp dried oregano season. Place in oven for 15-20 minutes and 1/2 cup (125ml) water and simmer 1/4 cup fresh oregano leaves until golden and cooked through. Scatter for 1 minute. Add sugar and 1 tsp salt 1 onion, sliced into rings, blanched pizzas with oregano leaves, onion, chilli and stir to dissolve. Stir in the eggplant Chilli flakes, to serve and remaining dried oregano and serve. global kitchen.flavours. alfajores the egg yolk, vanilla and lemon zest Makes 20 and beat until well combined. Stir in the baking powder, flour and a pinch 200g unsalted butter, softened of salt to form a soft dough. Shape into 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar a disc, enclose in plastic wrap and chill 1 egg yolk for 2 hours until firm. Roll out onto 1 tsp vanilla extract a lightly floured clean surface to 5mm Zest of 1 lemon, finely grated thick. Cut out 40 biscuits, re-rolling the 1/2 tsp baking powder excess dough. Arrange on trays and bake 325g plain flour, sifted for 20-25 minutes until firm and lightly 1 cup (330g) store-bought golden. Cool completely on a wire rack. dulce de leche* Place dulce de leche in a piping bag and pipe onto half the biscuits, or use a Preheat oven to 150°C and line 2 large teaspoon to add filling, then baking trays with baking paper. with another biscuit. Store in an airtight Place butter and sugar in the bowl of container for up to 2 days. an electric mixer and beat until pale. Add * From gourmet food shops. d.

146 delicious.