48871 BRITAIN- SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:24 Page 1

THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY

Journal Number 25 2001

CONTENTS

3 Editorial 6 A Tribute to His Late King Birendra Bikram Dev 7 Royal Audiences 8 11th September - Messages of Condolence 9 The Society’s News by Pat Mellor 14 A ‘Recce’ Trip to Nepal - 2001 by Peter Donaldson 19 Britain-Nepal Otology Service (BRINOS) by Neil Weir 22 A Royal Tiger Shoot by Col WG Gresham 31 The Museum in by Maj Maniparsad Rai 33 From the Editor’s In-Tray 37 Review Articles 41 Book Reviews 44 Obituaries 48 Important Addresses 50 Notes on the Britain-Nepal Society 51 President, Vice-President and Committee

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HM King Gyanendra Bikram Shah Dev

HM Queen Komal Rajya Laxmi Devi Shah

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EDITORIAL

The year 2002 has truly been and ‘annus so much depends. As HRH Prince horribilis’ for Nepal. The tragic events of Gyanendra he was a gracious and the 1st June shocked and stunned the supportive Patron of the society. That the whole nation which was then plunged into society is greatly valued is shown by the a period of deep mourning for the loss of a report of the Chairman on the audiences much beloved and his close he was granted by His Late Majesty King family. For me, and I suspect many Birendra at the end of 2000 and more members of the society, the news broke recently by His Majesty King Gyanendra over Sunday morning breakfast on 2nd in December 2001. A tribute to His Late June. It was hard to take in and the Majesty King Birendra has been provided situation was, for some of us, all the more by Dr Raghav Dhital. poignant as members of the Gurkha If this tragedy were not enough, HRH Brigade Association were due to gather at Princess Prekshya Rajya Laxmi Devi Shah the Memorial Chapel at the Royal Military was killed in a helicopter crash at Rara Academy Sandhurst that morning for their Lake in northwest Nepal some five months annual memorial service and lunch. The later. tragedy made this a much more sombre It is a matter of historical fact that the event, and it should not be forgotten that accession of His Majesty King Gyanendra His Late Majesty King Birendra held the to the throne is the second occasion on rank of honorary Field Marshal in the which he has been anointed as monarch. British Army. At least it was an early He was briefly put on the throne at the age opportunity for the Association to pay of four in 1950 at the time of the collapse their respects which was done in an of the old Rana regime when his entirely appropriate manner led by the grandfather, King Tribhuvan fled to . Senior Chaplain. Books of condolence King Tribhuvan returned to Nepal some were opened at the Royal NepAlese months later and continued his reign until Embassy and this gave many members the his death in 1955. chance to pay their own respects and show Members will be all too aware of the solidarity with their Nepalese friends. Maoist insurgency, simmering away Such support was very much appreciated during the last five years, that has added to by the Ambassador, his staff and the whole Nepal’s problems. Reports of serious Nepalese community. The tragedy incidents have from time to time surfaced generated a good deal of interest and in the press. Over two thousand people speculation in the media, and our have been killed in such incidents. Whilst Chairman was interviewed by Jeremy initially the insurgency had its roots in the Paxman on TV. Some details of the events mid-west of the country, it has spread at the Royal palace in Kathmandu are quite widely in recent years. His Late unlikely to be fully known or understood Majesty King Birendra was naturally very and there is little point in speculation. concerned and was, with his Government, Suffice to say that this event has been one reluctant to bring the full force of the of great disaster for Nepal and we must security forces to bear against the hope that, with support, the nation will insurgents on the grounds of not wishing come through these events to achieve to exacerbate the problem with Nepalese stability again. As a society we are fighting Nepalese. His Majesty King fortunate to have met and to know His Gyanendra and Prime Minister Majesty King Gyanendra upon whom now Sherbahadur Deuba were faced with the 3 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:25 Page 4

same dilemma, but the situation came to a between India and . This will also head following the breakdown of talks that have the effect of frightening away had been initiated in the autumn and a potential tourists to the area, inevitably state of emergency was declared in including Nepal. We can only hope that November and the Royal Nepalese Army diplomatic initiatives will prevail here and was deployed. that in Nepal, government and military Prior to these events there was the working together can improve the situation tragedy in New York on 11th September for all those Nepalese that wish to live in which had an immediate effect on tourism peace and harmony. worldwide. This was yet another blow to Although the society tour has been Nepal which relies so heavily on the postponed hopes are still alive for the trip tourism industry. The threat of a possible to take place next November. Anyone prolonged war in Afghanistan in the wishing to travel to Nepal should of autumn meant that the majority of the course take heed of Foreign Office advice. potential visitors cancelled their Details of how to access this are given arrangements. This even affected the elsewhere in the journal. society’s planned tour for last November, Turning now to the content of this which has been postponed until 2002. edition, apart from the usual reports and However a smaller number, including the reviews and items already mentioned, Vice Chairman and Secretary, went ahead there is a short article on the Gurkha and a report of their trip is in this journal. Museum which has been established in The visit will have been a valuable ‘recce’. Kathmandu and should repay a visit by the Readers will note that despite the state of society tour in the autumn. Dr Neil Weir emergency and the attendant curfews, they has given us an update on his valuable were given a tremendous welcome by all work with Britain Nepal Otology Service the Nepalese whom they met and (BRINOS). Away from all the gloom I especially our sister society, the Nepal- have been able to include a whole chapter Britain Society. By the time you receive from a book compiled by Colonel John this I hope that some of you will have Roush formerly of the US Army heard firsthand from Major Murray Jones concerning a Royal tiger shoot that took the details of that visit and the plans for place west Nepal in 1963. Reading this autumn 2002 at the lecture scheduled for now it seems hardly credible that this took January 2002. Earlier in the year I had the place in my lifetime given the huge good fortune to go with a party of Army changes in attitude to wildlife birdwatchers to Kathmandu and to the conservation. At the time I was in fact Kosi Thappu reserve in the southeast. At serving in Nepal and although I was not that time it was clear that tourist numbers present I knew Colonel Bill Gresham, the had fallen but that the impact on tourists US Military Attaché, and of course there was not great. By chance two gap Colonel Charles Wylie then the British year students from my village spent time Military Attaché, and remember well the last year in the far west and in the Syanga stories that were told afterwards. Colonel areas. Although Maoists visited the Roush’s book is reviewed by Mr Ron schools where they were teaching, they Rosner, himself a keen shot who was also were in no physical danger. More recent on the staff of the US Embassy at the reports indicate that there is not the time. support for the insurgents that might have Finally my thanks, as always, go to the seemed to be the case previously. As I contributors, without whom there would write this tension is also rising in the be no journal and to those who sponsor South Asian region on the borders the journal with their advertisments. 4 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:25 Page 5

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A TRIBUTE TO HIS LATE MAJESTY KING BIRENDRA BIKRAM SHAH DEV

On 1st June 2001, Nepal lost almost its in Britain and members of Britain-Nepal entire Royal family in a tragic incident. In Society had several opportunities to meet a matter of minutes, King Birendra, Queen them and know them. The late King and Aishwarya, Crown Prince Dipendra and other members of the Royal family always Prince Nirajan, Princesses Shruti, Shanti, greeted them with warmth and affection. Sharada and Jayanti. Former Prince The news of the sudden loss was an Dhirendra and Kumar Khadga spouse of absolute shock for us all. We shall miss Princess Sharada lost their lives most them greatly. tragically. The Nepalese people both His Majesty The Late King Birendra inside and outside of Nepal were shocked will be remembered as a monarch who felt and saddened by this unthinkable and for his people, kept the national interest unimaginable event. So were many friends close to his heart and tried to change the of Nepal all over the world. Here in the monarchy with the times. His adherence to , Her Majesty Queen the letter and spirit of the constitution of Elizabeth and other members of the Royal Nepal after the political change of 1990, family, politicians and others expressed was greatly admired and appreciated both their condolences profoundly, so did the nationally and internationally. general public. Undoubtedly, this show of In this year of mourning, our thoughts support and sympathy was a great comfort are with the present monarch, His Majesty for the Nepalese people in their time of King Gyanendra, members of the Royal need. family and the people of Nepal. May the Late King Birendra, Crown Prince Almighty God give them courage to Dipendra and Prince Nirajan were all overcome this enormous grief and provide educated at Eton. They had special strength to shoulder the huge affection for this country and its people. responsibility that lies ahead. Over the years, the Nepalese community

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ROYAL AUDIENCES by Peter Leggatt Chairman On 1st December 2001 I was very fortunate in knowing His Majesty for privileged to be invited to an audience some years in connection with the with His Late Majesty King Birendra. Society and for other reasons. His This was at the Royal Palace and I met Majesty seemed extremely well, in spite His Majesty in his study. It was my first of the many pressures on him - in meeting and sadly, it was to be my only particular the Maoist situation and the one. His Majesty enquired with great then impending SAARC meeting. interest about the activities of the Society We were able to discuss many subjects and we also discussed the world tea including of course the Society and His industry with which I am connected. At Majesty said that his wishes regarding the end of the audience, His Majesty patronship would be notified in due specifically asked me to convey his good course. His Majesty ended the audience wishes to all members of the Society. by asking me to convey his good wishes Almost a year later, on 10th December to all his friends in the United Kingdom. 2001, His Majesty King Gyanendra Likewise, I was able to express to Their graciously granted me an audience. Again and HRH The Crown Prince, this was at the Royal Palace and in the the Society’s most sincere good wishes same study in which I had previously for their health and happiness in the seen his late brother. I have been coming year.

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11th SEPTEMBER 2001 - MESSAGES OF CONDOLENCE

Following the tragic events that took ‘His Excellency place at the World Trade Centre in New Mr George W Bush York, the texts of the messages of President of the United States of America condolence sent by His Majesty King Gyanendra and the Right Honourable Excellency, , Mr Sherbahadur The news of terrorist attacks that Deuba to President Bush are reproduced struck in New York and Washington DC below: yesterday has come as a deep shock to us all. At this hour of great tragedy, I wish to extend my heartfelt condolences and ‘His Excellency sympathies to Your Excellency and, Mr George W Bush through you, to the bereaved and affected President of the United States of America families, the people and Government of the United States of America. His Excellency, Majesty’s Government of Nepal strongly We are shocked to learn of the horrific condemns this act of terrorism. acts of terrorism resulting in the On this sad occasion, I reiterate the incalculable loss of innocent lives and unequivocal condemnation of His damage to property in the soil of the Majesty’s Government of Nepal of all United States of America. Such cowardly forms of and manifestations of terrorism. acts violate all international norms and This dastardly act has once again brought human dignity. They must be condemned to the fore the need for more cooperation and crimes against humanity and between the government and the peoples perpetrators brought to justice. of the World to eradicate such evil from As a nation which has always been a the civilised World. strong advocate of peace, Nepal believes that all countries must join hands in 12 September 2001 combating and eliminating terrorism Sherbahadur Deuba from the World. Prime Minister of The Government and people of Nepal The ’ join us in conveying to Your Excellency and, through you, to the affected families along with the Government and people of the United States of America our heartfelt condolences and sympathies in this hour of great tragedy.

12 September 2001 GYANENDRA R’

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THE SOCIETY’S NEWS by Pat Mellor Honorary Secretary Before I start my report about the Society’s various events I think we all know that the year 2001 has been overshadowed for everyone, and in particular for the members of the Britain- Nepal Society by the tragic and sad events in Nepal. The Society’s deepest sympathy goes to HRH Princess Jotshana, HE The Royal Ambassador of Nepal and their family. If that were not enough, the events of 11th September in New York once again plunged everyone into sadness and gloom.

Lectures Amidst all the tragedy and trauma, it was inevitable that some of our lectures had to be abandoned. However, I am pleased to say that nevertheless we did manage to have three outstanding lectures. They Nepalese hand made rug of ‘tiger’ design worked because we had to arrange things by David Sheppard at the last moment! The first lecture of the year, in January truly fascinating talk. Sir Clutha was 2001, was of course already arranged and blind, but not at all daunted by that; he was given by Adam Gilchrist, whose firm, enjoyed every moment, particularly all the Veedon Carpets, is in Kathmandu. He told more hair-raising incidents, that happened members about the difficulties that he had on his journey in Nepal. The photographs overcome in the design and making of shown to us were black and white these pure wool, close stitched carpets. pictures of a different Nepal, in a different Now he is making carpets to order world time. Mr Wilkinson took us through their wide in modern and traditional patterns. journey with such interest and humour. It Members were able to not only admire was a most enjoyable lecture. the wonderful slides but also to touch and The next lecture, which was due to take feel the actual carpets that Adam and his place in September and was to have been wife Clare had brought to the Society of given by George Band on the ‘Himalayan Antiquaries for members to see. This was Trust Projects Phaphlu - Everest Trek a really lovely evening. 2001’ was abandoned due to the 11th The second lecture, which took place in September tragedy, and it was felt that out June, was given by Mr Theon Wilkinson of respect for the USA we would not hold who is honorary secretary of the British that talk, but have postponed it until 2002. Association of Cemeteries in South Asia. The final lecture for 2001 was given by However, his talk was nothing to do with Dr Bob Jordan in October, and his title cemeteries, but was entitled ‘Walking into was ‘Sir Edmund Hillary’s Schoolhouses Kathmandu in 1946 with Sir Clutha in the Clouds’. This was a wonderful talk, McKenzie from St Dunstan’s’. This was a and Bob took us through the whole 9 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:25 Page 10

history of how Sir Edmund Hillary had We are hoping that the November 2002 felt that after his epic climb he very much tour will prove to be a success and that wanted to repay the Nepalese in some many members will take advantage of the way for the wonderful experience he had opportunity of visiting Nepal under the had whilst in their country. He has auspices of the society and the Nepal- therefore been supporting and building Britain Society who are looking forward schools for the Nepalese children ever to welcoming us. since, and I believe, visits them every Annual Nepali Supper year. Sir Edmund has set up a charity to continue the work and our Society does of course support it. Our grateful thanks goes to all of these excellent speakers who gave us their time, shared their knowledge and showed us beautiful slides. We look forward to meeting them again and thanking them personally at the annual Nepali supper in February 2002. We now look forward to the lectures to be held in 2002. The current plans are: 29th January 2002 - Major Murray Jones will talk on the Society’s 2001 unofficial Field Marshal Lord Bramall, the ‘recce’ to Nepal which took place from Chairman and Mrs Jennifer Evans at the 15th November to 3rd December and supper outlining the proposed itinerary for Britain-Nepal Society trip in 2002, which As usual, the Supper was held at St we hope will attract many members to Columba’s Church Hall in Pont Street join. during March. About 170 people attended 27th March 2002 - Mr George Band will the Supper, which was prepared by the talk on ‘The Himalayan Trust Projects Munal Restaurant of Putney and was Phaphlu - Everest Trek 2001. enjoyed by everyone who attended. His 25th June 2002 - Dr Bill Gould of the Excellency the Royal Nepalese United Mission to Nepal Hospitals’ Ambassador and HRH Princess Jotshana Endowment Trust whose title is ‘The attended the evening, and our guest of Challenge of Health Care in Nepal’. honour was Field Marshal Lord Bramall, 1st October 2002 - Claire Waring will talk who gave an entertaining after dinner on the ‘Honey Hunters of Nepal’.

The Society Visit to Nepal It had been decided by a popular vote taken by members who proposed to go on the society visit, to postpone it until 2002, when hopefully the world situation would have calmed down. The talk to be given by Major Murray Jones on 29th January will concern the unscheduled trip undertaken by only five members who Mr Prabakhar Rana, Lady Bramall and considered it a ‘recce’ and planning visit. Lt Col Charles Wylie at the supper

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I am pleased to be able to announce that your committee has agreed the production of a new tie. The design is as before, but the motif is clearer, and the tie is made in silk and will be priced at £10. David Jefford is kindly continuing to look after the sale of ties, for which we are most grateful.

Deaths Col William Shuttlewood, Colonel Brigade It is with sadness I have to report that the of , Mrs Sheila Birch, the Editor following members have died during the and Frl Ahlendorf at the supper last year: speech. All members who were present Lieutenant Colonel TG Blackford really enjoyed this talk, yet another Brigadier IA Christie successful and happy evening. Mrs Kemmis Betty Major Malcolm Meerondonk Summer Outing General Sir Walter Walker I am pleased to be able to report that the 2001 Summer Outing was an unqualified success. Some of us travelled by coach, but the majority travelled by car to Wrotham Place, our Chairman’s Company Head Office in Kent. In the beautiful gardens Peter Leggatt had arranged marquee, large umbrellas, tables and chairs for our comfort, and we really needed them as the day was gloriously hot. The swimming pool was a real temptation, which I am glad to say was made the most of by members’ children. We had a delicious picnic lunch, prepared for us by Kim Ranamagar of the Munal Restaurant, and wine was kindly donated by the Chairman and the Royal Nepalese Mr Timothy George with the Ambassador Ambassador. We were honoured to be at the AGM joined by the Ambassador, Dr Basnyet, and Mr Hari Shrestha, the First Counsellor. We then made our way to Ightham Mote, a fascinating National Trust moated house. There we were given an interesting introductory talk by Valerie Redman, who made the ancient house and its cottages come alive for us. After a welcome cup of tea in the tea rooms, we all made our way home. It was certainly a memorable summer outing. Dr Dhital, M Mandhar, Sir Neil Thorne Society Ties and Mrs Joanna Thomas at the AGM 11 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 12

Princess Jotshana and Mr Anthony The Editor, Maj Dudley and the Wieler at the AGM Chairman at the AGM

The Ambassador and Princess Jotshana and members at the AGM

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MOOR EST [-!. PH r.NS CHARTERED ACCOUNTANTS

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A ‘RECCE’ TRIP TO NEPAL - 2001 by Peter Donaldson

It has been a disappointment that the official tour to Nepal has had to be postponed until the autumn of 2002. Nevertheless, five of us set off from a damp and cold Heathrow with high hopes of meeting our Nepali friends once again and enjoying a Nepalese welcome. It proved to be even better than expected and a very useful ‘recce’ for the 2002 trip. Murray Jones had set about rearranging the itinerary to accommodate the smaller number. On arrival at Kathmandu Airport The Secretary, Mrs Pratima Pandey, we were rapidly taken to our hotel, the President of the Nepal-Britain Society and Shanker, in order to start our tours of the Vice Chairman at the Shanker Hotel Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur as soon our surprise they presented us each with a as possible. Murray had lived in the area, posy of flowers and had organised a consequently we were taken around many concert for us. This included 80 primary interesting parts not on the usual tourist school children singing “All things bright routes. Good evening meals, cultural and beautiful” in English as well as in shows and a lunch at the Dhulikhel Nepali, plus a series of local dances mountain resort set high above the Valley, performed by the senior students. were all memorable experiences. Our kind En route for Chitwan having left hosts, including the President of the Kathmandu, we encountered the usual Nepal-Britain Society, Mrs Pratima convoy of lorries grinding their way up Pandey and many members were pleased the hills (or lying by the roadside with to welcome us to their country. ominous signs of black oil oozing out of We went to both Kirtipur and Chobar, their gearboxes) together with two lorries villages in the southwestern side of the trying simultaneously to get through a Valley, not often visited, which gave us small gap in a landslide! the opportunity to see all the swords, pots Our lodge at Chitwan, Temple Tiger, and pans which decorate the exteriors of was in the park itself. On our arrival, we their temples. Kirtipur was the last of the were greeted by two cheery boatmen who Malla fortified villages to fall to the poled our boat across the river for a Gorkha forces of in welcoming drink before we took the 1769-70. At Chobar there was a family Landrovers to the lodge. During our three festival being celebrated and we were night stay in the park, the four elephant privileged to observe the religious rides we had enabled us to see many of procedures and food preparations. After the native birds and animals, including driving up Phulchowki (at over 9,000 feet wild rhinos and their calves. No tigers the highest point on the rim of the Valley) were seen but pug marks of two female we viewed the surrounding peaks through and one male were seen on one morning rather hazy conditions, and on return ride showing that they had been about the called in to see Father Boniface at St previous night. A loud noise caused by Xavier’s School at Godavari which is two large rhinos fighting woke up the supported by some society members. To whole jungle! 14 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 15

We visited the King Mahendra Trust 2002 tour. The mountains had not been (KMT) centre at Sauraha. The director visible for four days but our luck was in explained the centre’s conservation and the skies cleared giving us a view of activities and the progress they were the Fishtail in all its glory, with both making despite their limited finances. The points of the tail clearly visible from this museum was full of interesting excellent vantage point. anatomical specimens. A short ferry ride and walk brought us to the elephant breeding centre where, after waiting for the animals to return from grazing, we were nuzzled by a baby elephant who obviously thought our cameras might be a new type of food. As we were behind schedule, great haste was made by our driver to get us back to the lodge. With dusk rapidly approaching, we began to wonder how we could sleep overnight in the coach! We need not have worried, as during the The ‘recce party’ at Naudanda with the whole trip, the organisation was Annapurna range in the background extremely good. The coach came to a halt by the riverbank. Out of the gloom the We visited the Annapurna Conservation solitary boatman, who had patiently Area Project (ACAP) headquarters in waited for us, appeared and quietly poled Pokhara. ACAP is one of KMT’s most us up river to a point only he knew so successful projects, having won major well, turned into the main stream and then international awards for their work. The into turbulent waters before landing us director gave us a graphic overview of the exactly at a minute landing stage on the work the 130 staff members undertake in opposite bank in the dark. The waiting improving the area. The work includes Landrovers obviated the possibility of a training in managing tourism and long walk back in the darkness. Racing improved agricultural techniques. For through the night on familiar routes instance their design of a new type of known to the drivers we were soon back more efficient stove is being readily in camp, despite a delay due to a rhino on accepted thus reducing reliance on the track who was not at all pleased to be firewood for fuel. After the house owner disturbed. purchases the stove, ACAP pays for the From Chitwan we drove to Pokhara transport, installation and maintenance staying at a new hotel, the Phulbari Resort costs. (For a full description of ACAP see Hotel, built near the top of the main the 1995 journal. Ed). ravine. It was apparent that in the last ten We were privileged to be invited by Lt years the town had grown almost beyond Col John Cross into his home where he recognition, though it was disappointing has lived for many years since his to note that there were so few travellers retirement from the Brigade of Gurkhas. and tourists in the hotels. We had a stimulating conversation with a We drove up to Naudanda, a ridge briefing on the local situation which was overlooking the valley, and walked to the accompanied by a welcome cup of tea. top where we located a fine picnic site We were made so welcome that we have with a great mountain backdrop for the brought back some copies of his latest

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and circuitous track up to the resort and with the engine roaring we arrived at the top just as the sun was setting. Marcus Cotton, a society member, welcomed us and after drinks and talking around the log fire, we settled down to dinner. Leaving later that night, the Landrover driver showed great skill in driving back to Pokhara, only pausing at a police checkpoint where the police officer said “You are most welcome in our country”, a welcome that was echoed throughout our visit. Leaving Pokhara for Kathmandu, we stopped for two days at a newly constructed hotel, the Riverside Springs Resort hotel near Mugling with its own Lt Col John Cross ‘at home’ in Pokhara chalets and swimming pool. On the first with the ‘recce party’ day of our stay we drove to Gorkha and walked up the vast number of steps to the book (and first novel) “The Throne of Gorkha Durbar or palace, the original seat Stone” for any member who would like to of the Gorkha kings and the present Shah buy a copy. (The book is reviewed . The stunning view of Manaslu elsewhere in the journal. For a signed and the surrounding peaks was a copy see me. Ed). rewarding sight after the arduous walk to The next part of our visit to the get there. Next day, the use of the new Pokhara valley was to the beautiful lake, cable car to Manakamana avoided a hard Begnas Tal. The hotel manager and two day’s walk and enabled us to visit the boatmen were waiting for us in a boat holy shrine known as the Bhagwati with a sunshade and we were paddled Mandir. This is a popular shrine where quietly across the lake. After rounding the families pray for the birth of sons in headland we saw the Begnas Lake Resort particular. Climbing to the top, the hotel chalets built into the hillside mountains stood out with great beauty surrounded by fruit trees which provided and the flat area upon which we were our welcome drink of fresh orange juice. standing could be another picnic site for After climbing up to the restaurant, the 2002 tour. We then visited the homes having passed its swimming pool, we had of two Gurkha ex-servicemen, Bishnu lunch on the balcony with fresh fish from Malla and Mahabir Gurung. Following the lake below. It was an idyllic setting. the first visit, we were invited to see the The boatmen paddled us back across the village school at Khaireni with very basic lake but the mobile phones refused to working conditions that the teachers had make contact with the Tiger Mountain to cope with. Due to the forced closure of Lodge so it was not possible to locate our boarding schools, the 2300 pupils were next pick up point. On landing and being taught in classes of about 130 by 15 wondering about our next move, we teachers on a rota basis. Organised by a espied an olive green Landrover with its master with a whistle, the 500 pupils ex Gurkha driver standing quietly beside present gave us a PT display before it. The driver knew every inch of the steep setting off home. The school hopes that

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some voluntary organisation will be able to come forward with finance to help them in the not too distant future. Running late again for the second visit, we then met ex Sgt Maj Mahabir Gurung who greeted us in front of his hotel home. He led us out to the back of the house, down to the river where he proudly showed us the walkway suspension bridge he had built with the aid from the Gurkha Welfare Trust (GWT). We then walked on into his village at Kurintar where again supported by GWT, he had been able to The ‘recce party’ relaxing over breakfast at Nagarkot install a clean water supply. We were invited into the homes of some of the volcano pouring down it. Woken at 5.30 villagers and it was most encouraging to am to be ready for sunrise, the hotel see what one Gurkha ex-serviceman, ensured we were kept warm with hot supported by the GWT, could do to coffee and tea whilst we stood on the improve the living conditions of the promontory. No matter how often one village where he was born. Having sees sunsets and sunrises in the already received a good deal of financial Himalayas, it always has a magical effect. support for this village, further funds were On our return to Kathmandu, we spent not available for a much-needed school. our last hours meeting friends and making He therefore set about building it himself, our final shopping trips in Thamel for equipping it and persuading an 18 year more ‘retail therapy’, including of course old to be a teacher for the rest of the a visit to Pilgrims bookshop. A comment village children. was made at Charles Wylie’s talk last year Leaving Mugling we drove to Nagarkot on “Climbing the Fish’s Tail” that Wilfred to see the mountains once more. On the Noyce’s book has been reprinted and we way we stopped off to see the rusting were pleased to find they still had copies remains of the Kathmandu chair lift. The in stock. (These are paperback copies but old goods buckets are still hanging from do include the black and white photos. the cables. It was interesting to think that Ed). all the equipment required for the With all our treasures and happy successful ascent of Everest came up memories of a most enjoyable tour, so from the Terai in these buckets. well organised by Murray, we set off for At Nagarkot, at the Chautari Hotel, we home thinking about the official tour in saw a marvellous sunset - the whole face 2002. Are you coming along next of Langtang seemed to have a red hot autumn? I do hope so.

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Contact: Mrs Carolyn Syangbo Public Relations Manager Tiger Mountain PO Box 242, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: 00 977 1 414073 Fax: 00 977 1 414075

Website on the Internet: heep://www.tigertops.com

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BRITAIN-NEPAL OTOLOGY SERVICE (BRINOS) by Neil Weir

At the end of November this year BRINOS completed its 22nd Ear Surgery Camp. Founded in 1988 with the purpose of assisting the then few Nepalese ENT surgeons to deliver ear care to those people unable to reach Kathmandu, BRINOS has held camps in many locations but predominately at Dharan in the east and Nepalgunj in the west. So far 23,000 patients have been seen and treated and 2,370 operations to prevent the development of life threatening complications and restore hearing have been performed. At each camp we have the opportunity to work closely with Nepali ENT surgeons and to contribute to their training. Ear surgery in progress 1991. Over 16,000 people were surveyed over a period of eight months by a British and Nepalese team. The main findings were: • 2.7 million out of the population of 19 million were significantly deaf • 1.5 million had abnormal ear drums indicative of preventable ear disease • 32% of hearing impairment is associated with middle ear infection or Hearing testing performed by the its sequelae and 70% of these sufferers Community Ear Worker in a village are in the school age group screening camp • 61% of individuals aware of ear problems had never attended their We were very conscious at the health post: of the 39% who had beginning that we were seeing the end received treatment, 66% were stages of ear disease. Whilst these patients unsatisfied could not be ignored and were much in The last point in particular was the need of active surgical treatment we knew catalyst for our next project which was to that about 50% of the problems we were collaborate with the Nepal Ear seeing were in reality preventable. Foundation and IMPACT in a four year The fact that in the Year of the Disabled pilot scheme of Primary Ear Care. We (1981) a survey of disability in Nepal chose the Kavre district of 350,000 people revealed that deafness was the largest at the eastern end of the Kathmandu single disability was uppermost in our Valley and trained 24 Health Workers minds when we commissioned a nation- from ten health posts. They were wide survey of deafness and ear disease in supported by ENT surgeons from the 19 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 20

Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital who visited the district three times a week to operate and hold outpatient clinics. Some aspects of this study were successful but so much depended on the enthusiasm of the individual health worker whose task was to deliver a wide range of health care. Inevitably some neglected ear disease and concentrated more on life-threatening conditions. During our time in Nepalgunj we have learnt of the provision of primary care in A relaxing day off the field of eye disease. They have a strong successful community eye worker We see this model as one which programme supported by volunteers from reaches out completely to the people of each village. In March 2000 we supported Nepal and is driven by them as the the appointment of the first community initiative and demand for ear care comes ear worker (CEW) who since has from the volunteers to whom the people established himself in five village turn. development committees (VDC’s) and has There will still be a need for ear trained 60 volunteers to assist him. He in surgery camps outside the Kathmandu turn is supported and was trained by the Valley and the catchment area of local ENT surgeon in Nepalgunj who in established ENT departments in regional turn refers more complex surgical cases to medical schools. Where local ENT our twice yearly ear surgery camps. This surgeons do not perform complex ear project has proved to be sustainable and surgery they can nevertheless be involved self supporting and has already linked in the training and support of CEW’s. with the Banke branch of the King Mobile ear surgery camps can then be Mahendra Trust and is shortly to be requested as the demand arises. reproduced in conjunction with the If we were to be asked what BRINOS Community Health Unit of the Nepal has achieved over the last twelve years Medical College. This year we have apart from quantifiable direct care, we trained our CEW in hearing testing and in would reply that firstly, the people of the care, maintenance and provision of Nepal are now much more aware that hearing aids. their ear disease can be treated and, secondly, that we are gratified that there has been a marked increase in young doctors wishing to study ENT. There are many highlights to each of the camps and each team member takes away with them wonderful memories of the country and its gentle trusting people. We often ask ourselves whether we would so willingly entrust ourselves to a group of foreign surgeons, anaesthetists and nurses! Donated anaesthetic equipment BRINOS has now reached a stage of consolidation. We need to continue the

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ear surgery camps but we equally need to ENT surgeons who will not all stay in the put our resources and energies into Kathmandu Valley and with this will establishing CEW’s throughout the inevitably be an increase in the standard country. With the good co-operation of of ear care provision. BRINOS looks the ENT surgeons and the village district forward to co-operating with our committees this should be realisable Nepalese colleagues to achieve our particularly in the areas of maximum common goal, namely the reduction of population. preventable ear disease and the restoration In time there will be more well trained of hearing where possible.

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A ROYAL TIGER SHOOT by Colonel WG Gresham US Army (Retd)

(Colonel Bill Gresham was appointed as US Military Attache to Nepal in 1962/63, only the second officer to fill this post. Apart from his interest in hunting game, he was also an amateur radio enthusiast and as such was a friend of the late Father Marshall Moran. He operated from Kathmandu using the callsign 9N1 DD (ie ‘Donald Duck’) to partner Father Moran whose callsign was 9N1 MM (ie ‘Micky Mouse’). Both these radio ‘hams’ encouraged me to open a station in ‘Ready, aim, fire!’ Shooting from the howdah. Terai, c 1920 Dharan using the ‘stand by’ radio station on the Singapore link. We used 9N1 BG. The king had been crowned in 1955 as This station was operated for about 15 the only Hindu monarch of the world. He months, before orders were received that was supposedly “the incarnation of it should be closed down! This piece has Vishnu”, who, as the second god of the been extracted from Hunting Dangerous Hindu triad, was called the Preserver. He Game with the Maharajahs compiled by was also called “King of Kings, Five Colonel JH Roush US Army (Retd) and is times Godly. Valorous Warrior and Divine the chapter written by Colonel Gresham. Emperor.” But he didn’t act that way to The book is reviewed elsewhere in the us. He was quite open and cordial. It must journal by Mr RF Rosner, who was on the have been a magnificent sight during the staff of the US Embassy at the time when coronation activities to have seen the these events took place. Lt Col Charles scores of gorgeously caparisoned Wylie was the British Military Attache elephants of the royal entourage parade and as described also took part in the around the Tundikhel, the vast parade shoot. Quite apart from the change in ground in the center of Kathmandu. attitude to such activities in this modern Also attending were his brother Prince age, I feel sure that succeeding military Basundhara, and other notables. The hunt attaches were and are much relieved that was held in the District of Kanchenpur at the honour of their nation was not the western end of the Terai region of the dependent upon their ability ‘to bag a foothills of the Himalayas. The Terai tiger’! Sadly, Colonel Gresham died in jungles then constituted a great belt of early 1999 before the book was published. rain forest that ran parallel to the Ed). Himalayas along the foothills. The Terai was refreshed by the many alpine torrents In February 1963, I was included that flow out of the magnificent among the four foreign Military Attaches mountains. in Kathmandu who had the honor and The tactics of the convoluted hunt good fortune to be invited to participate in involved establishing an elephant ring, a the elegant and most exciting tiger shoot moving wall of dozens of elephants of HM King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah enclosing within a massive circle one or Dev, who died in 1972 and was succeeded more ferocious tigers. All that I had been by his son Birendra. told suggested the adventure would be an 22 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 23

exciting event that I was eager to take part unknown abilities. We were all excited to in. become a part of the sport of kings and Those that had seen the operation on princes - royal tiger shooting - and the previous occasions spoke enthusiastically Terai was noted for holding magnum of the frenzied action generated in this sized tigers. jungle sports pageant. This sort of Our hunting trip commenced on a grandiose recreation was reserved for glorious morning when we assembled at kings and princes, and was performed for the Royal Flight enclosure at Gauchar Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip in airport. The sun had just blessed the grand 1961. This uniquely Nepalese tactic takes mountains of the Himalaya as we an enormous amount of organization, as it assembled. Wives were also included in involves many active participants and the invitation for the party, so my wife dozens of highly trained elephants in the Juanita and Pushpi Man Singh added midst of undisturbed jungles and grass feminine charm to the assemblage. Col. lands. Within the kingdom the royalty had Kan Mai was accompanied by the the option of hunting over any selected required “interpreter”, without whom the area within hundreds of square miles. Red Chinese were not allowed to leave Some of the world’s highest and most the Embassy. spectacular mountain peaks are displayed We flew west in the Dakota DC-3 of in the background like a gorgeous mural the Royal Flight seated on folding canvas curtain to the pageant. bench seats running down the sides. Tied While in the past the massive hunts down in the gangway were assorted were held by Nepal’s Rana Maharajas, supplies including a magnificent yellow this grand style of ostentatious shooting tin bathtub of royal dimensions. We had not been done in Nepal for many marveled at the views of magnificent years. In their magnificent displays of mountains from the tiny windows as we pageantry, those affairs had generated a flew at a slightly lower altitude. Billowing reputation of being the most elaborate great white clouds accentuated the tiger hunts in the world. Some of the marvelous scenery. previous kings used to shoot for three We landed at Dhangarhi in the far months of the year, using as many as four western Terai. The scene suggested a hundred elephants. King Mahendra, different world, a landscape inhabited by although a keen and expert shot, was contrasting people. We were met by conscientiously involved in devoting his Major Bharat Sinha of the Royal full time attending to the problems of his Nepalese Army (an infantry force of country and thus had little time for about 14,000 men), who had been recreation. detailed to be our escort. A two hour drive Hunting with me were Lieutenant through thick sal and teakwood forest Colonel Charles G Wylie of the 10th took us to the royal shikar camp, which Gurkhas and the British Military Attache was a more elegant bivouac than army (M.A.), the Indian M.A., Colonel Bir Man people are accustomed to. Singh and the Red Chinese M.A. Colonel We were not in the jungle, but in a Kan Mai. Both Col. Singh and I were large area of tall grassland. A high wall experienced hunters, while Charles was tent stretching a hundred yards across was not. The Chinese officer was a man of set up in the center. The fluttering

Charles Wylie was a member of the first successful conquest of Mount Everest with the Edmund Hillary Expedition. He was in charge of equipment and supplies for that memorable first ascent. Also a great climber, he reached the south Col at 7,986 meters.

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standards proclaimed that a man of goes to the river to drink. Afterwards the importance was there. Inside was the tiger sleeps in dense cover, usually not King’s personal camp. An open belt a more than three hundred yards away and hundred yards wide surrounded this, often within tall elephant grass. outside of which were the tents of the When a kill has been found the shikari other officials present as well as ours. In will search for the tiger’s pug marks. the area designated for the military From those he will determine the size and attaches, we each had a large tent, sex of the animal and whether it is with sparsely furnished yet with a bottle of cubs. He will also predict where the tiger whiskey on the table. Each principal tent will be lying up. With blazed trees or had a private enclosure with small tents knots to the elephant grass he indicates for bath and latrine. A communal mess where the ring should be formed. One had was set up, and two large campfires were to be very careful to watch for cobras kept going. In addition to our personal there in the high grass of the Terai. orderlies, we were attended by servants On such royal tiger shoots there might from the State Guest House at Kathmandu be as many as 15 or 20 buffaloes tied out and orderlies from the Nepalese Army. at any one day. At that time one could Our stay was made more enjoyable by purchase a young bull for the equivalent their thoughtful assistance. of about five dollars. When a shikari finds We settled in, bathed, and changed one killed, he immediately reports khabar clothes. That evening we were invited to (news of tiger) at once. Often there might have drinks with His Majesty, who be five or six such reports each day, inquired if we were comfortable. We were seldom none. His Majesty decided in the told that there were good auguries for a evening which tiger should be ringed and successful hunt. Later we walked to who should be designated as the shooter another part of camp to watch some local for the following day. The rule was that dances performed by Tharu natives. The only one person should shoot at any one dancers were shy and inquisitive. The tiger, so that there would be no doubt as women were adorned with silver jewelry, to who was successful. heavy ankle bangles, quaint black hoods The Nepalese officer in charge called and flared skirts. The men created a out one by one our elephants by name, colorful display with their necklaces of and their mahout had the huge creature animal’s teeth and headdresses of peacock come forward and kneel for us to mount. feathers. Their dancing within the Despite their bulk, elephants are quite flickering light of the camp fires agile and move along briskly. We had suggested a scene from some quaint folk- hardly become accustomed to the ship- opera ballet. like rocking motion, when we came to the The next morning we asked if we river where the tiger had drunk after his might go out to watch the forming of the kill. On the far bank a blazed tree, marked ring. Guests normally wait to go out until by an earlier scout, indicated the point the ring has been set and there is news where the column of elephants divided to that a tiger has been enclosed. form the ring. The elephants had First of all, young buffaloes are tied up alternated in right and left turns. We as bait in various locations, usually in emerged from the jungle into a large jungle not far from a river. When the tiger expanse of elephant grass, much of it has killed the katra, he will drag the twelve feet high. Our elephants proceeded carcass off to a spot where he can eat his through the reeds majestically with fill without disturbance. The tiger then confidence and eventually met to

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complete the ring. where we thought one tiger rested we All the participants then shouted in heard great snarls and growls while the chorus to make the tiger aware there were movements of the elephant grass people surrounding him. It was believed disclosed the tiger’s path as they ran then that he would stay put. Then the about. elephants started beating the grass down Within the ring formed by 36 elephants with their trunks, creating a broad swathe were several cornered tigers. Each tiger of cleared ground around the perimeter of was a revved up fighting mass of the ring. A silk white cloth six feet wide diabolical fury, utterly fearless of man or was then unfurled from an elephant to elephant, and dangerous to both. When form a perimeter fence. While tigers faced with a tiger’s charge, the elephants could easily break through it or jump the responded with shrieking bellows and screen, they are usually contained and often stampeded out of the way. The turn back. thrills and heart-bursting excitement When the screen was up the mahouts continued for much of the morning. all shouted, “Khabardar”! Then four or Occasionally the tiger charged one of five specially trained attack elephants the elephants, putting the great beast to started looking for the tiger. Soon the flight. The elephant would retire tigers responded with frightening roars. temporarily to the screen, but then The call of the tiger in its great AH- ponderously march back with great OOONGH is soul stirring, something I dignity. However, the elephant Himil Kalli shall always remember, the beating was quite badly mauled and retired elephants then ignored the tiger and altogether from the ring. started clearing a killing area in front of Yet, the great tusker Motiparsad kept the elephant on which was riding the the others going. While we occasionally designated shooter. A semi-circle about saw a flash of color as a tiger appeared thirty yards in radius was created. In the briefly in part, no one had any clear shot. long elephant grass beyond the cleared Suddenly, the melee was interrupted by a area the dense reeds precluded any chance shot. The designated shooter of the day, of seeing a tiger. the Rajah-Kumar of Kasipur, a relative of After these preparations we awaited the the Queen of Nepal, fired as the tiger arrival of the royal party. During the warily crossed the cleared patch. He was pause we were entertained by the hit in the spine and was immobilized. creatures of the forest. In addition to the Two more shots finished the matter. The fascinating scrambles of monkeys ring was broken and we all moved in to overhead, many birds flittered in and out admire the tiger and load it up on a pad of the scene. The elephants took atop the elephant’s back. advantage of the pause to pull browse Since it was still quite early in the day, from the vicinity. While we waited we we were granted the privilege of going off were served an excellent lunch by the Phutkar (open shooting). We were free to “mess elephant”, including a complete bar roam the area on our elephants in search for those so inclined. of mixed game. Col. Wylie put up a hog With the arrival of the royal party we deer but didn’t get a clear shot. I was took our assigned places on the shooting more fortunate in shooting a deer. While a howdahs and moved out. The shout of barasingha crossed in front of the rest of Khabardar rang out from the mahouts, the group, all missed the fleet stag. Later and the elephants in the ring began their the barasingha was put up again and Kan beat. When they approached the place Mai made his shot count.

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On the next day all of the elephants to bag his, four hours were consumed in were required for a beat by His Majesty, the next assault. During that time another so the military attaches went off in a jeep tiger charged the elephants and made his for a duck hunt at a jheel (a body of escape from the ring. The tiger nearly water) some twenty miles away. Along reached the howdah, giving an the way several herds of chital were opportunity for a shot at close range. sighted. Col. Wylie dropped a buck with However Kan Mai missed and failed to respectable antlers. While there were lots reload in time for another shot. Still of ducks on the lake they seemed alert another tiger remained in the ring. Finally and took off before we could get a shot. after eleven shots Col. Mai bagged his The following day the M.A.’s were tiger, which turned out to be a six foot designated as shooters and began their long cub. attempts to bag their tigers. Bir Man Although it was late in the afternoon, Singh, being the senior officer, went first. General Nir(1), the Nepalese Commander It was soon evident that we had more than in Chief, ordered another ring to be made. one tiger in the ring. The elephants It was then Col. Wylie’s turn to shoot. But seemed to encounter tigers with every by the time we had moved to another area movement. As the circle of elephants and had formed the ring, there was less drew in, narrowing the cover, the area than an hour of daylight remaining. seemed alive with irate tigers. The great We soon heard growls. An angry cats were wild, rushing about at high animal rushed forward, bounding in and speed, growling ferociously. The courses out of the grass in full charge. His charge of the tigers were only indicated by the was announced by a blood-curdling roar. waving reeds and the agitation of the Col. Wylie found it difficult to get his elephants. sights on the tiger who disappeared Suddenly the grass parted right in front unscathed. When shooting from a of us and a tiger dived under the screen quivering elephant, it is unlikely that you and disappeared into the grass beyond. will get more than one aimed shot. So it We had hardly recovered from that must be placed well and allow for a excitement, when another tiger bounded proper lead. out and made for the screen on the other Soon the tiger returned in another rapid side of the elephant. He failed to get advance. "Shoot, Shoot," shouted through. As he tried to fight his way over, everyone. Several shots did not drop the he became tangled up in the screen. My beast. I saw it tumble in the air, but right elephant became very upset. Tigers to the itself. right and left were altogether too much “It’s wounded, it’s dying,” someone for his patience. My elephant retreated in called out, but the tiger had disappeared a total stampede, while I hung on for dear completely. There were growls life. However, Bir Man Singh seized his everywhere, and elephants trumpeting, for opportunity and dropped the splendid one tiger had jumped up on the back of a tiger with a fine shot. It measured nine pachyderm several places to my right. feet seven inches. Fortunately the men aboard escaped Not content with our bag, the elephants injury. found another tiger in the ring. Then it Then I told General Nir that I could see became Kan Mai’s turn to shoot. While it a tiger looking at me. The General had taken Col. Singh only a quarter hour suggested that I shoot. I was using a

(1) Later promoted to Field Marshal

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30.06 rifle, and I fired three rounds. I was elephants were needed by the King, we apprehensive of the effectiveness of the asked if we could hunt black buck first round, for sometimes the truculent antelope from the landrovers. I had been elephant foils your shooting. At the in the area before and had seen a herd in precise moment of trigger pull the beast that vicinity. We eventually spotted them may take it into her head to fidget. I was and went into action. We took advantage certain that I had hit the tiger. He roared of a low ridge in front of us. The four with a volume of threat I’ve never heard military attaches took up positions on the before or since. One knew that he was ridge while the natives driving the hurt and more importantly he was angry vehicles worked around the herd’s flanks as hell! But unfortunately no body could and pushed them towards the hunters. The be found. There was still an awful lot of plan worked perfectly, and I got the fearful roars from live tigers challenging largest buck with a splendid set of horns. from within the ring. However, it became It was a standing shot from 200 yards. completely dark. So we lifted the screen, Those black buck are such graceful while mahouts remained in the area, lit animals. The sight of the herd of 20 or 25 fires and kept a vigil all night long around animals leaping five or six feet in the air the ring. at each stride was quite an impressive When we returned the next morning we sight. found a large tiger laid out in the grass, That night His Majesty decided that the the one I believed I fired at, measuring two young tigers shot by Colonels Wylie nine feet three inches. General Nir and Mai would not count against their decided that it was mine, for it was found quota. They were to be given a second not far from where I had shot at the chance to shoot mature animals. Kan Mai animal. No other dead tigers were found. took the first ring the following morning, Col. Wylie’s tiger was not found, and we becoming the designated shooter, where it all concluded that he had missed. Yet he was believed there were three tigers. One was eager to try again and got aboard the came out fairly soon and paused shooting howdah to resume the hunt. conveniently in the open to give Col. Mai Soon one was located in a clump of a good shot, which he did well. The reeds, and his elephant proceeded toward remaining two were unusually lively. it. The beating elephants flushed the General Nir judged them to be young predator and Wylie had a reasonable shot animals, about eight feet in length. as it bounded away at about forty yards General Nir asked Col. Wylie if he range. This time there was no doubt of the wanted to try for one of those, however he result. It was quite immobilized. The ring declined. The screen was lifted and the was broken, and Col. Wylie finished it off. ring of elephants broken to allow the We knew there was still another tiger in young tigers to scamper off. However the ring. Prince Gyanendra, the King’s they remained with their parent, and soon second son, was designated as the shooter, they had all of our elephants trumpeting and he was successful. Yet another tiger and stampeding in a wild melee. One was found within the ring and was shot tusker was vigorously fending off a young by Prince Gyanendra. As we picked up tiger with his tusks. Finally the ring of the three tigers killed that morning we elephants withdrew, and the tuskers eased found them to all be young animals who the young tigers off toward the jungle. had been with their mother. Col. Wylie Gen. Nir measured Kan Mai’s tigress and bagged a seven foot young tigress. determined it to be nine feet three inches, The morning was still young. As the exactly the same length as mine. We spent

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the afternoon with shotguns after black Majesty was to shoot. The shikaris had partridge. reserved what they believed to be the On the next morning Col. Wylie had largest tiger. The local villagers had told another chance within a small ring. All many stories about a monster tiger was ready when we drove up to the scene, frequenting the area. Thus excitement ran and I climbed into the shooting howdah high. with General Nir. Prince Basundara and When the beating began it became Prince Gyanendra, carrying rifles, rode quite clear the shikaris were right, judging other elephants. Other men were equipped by the exceptionally loud roars. It was with cine cameras. Col. Wylie felt as if he also apparent that the tiger had no were on the spot, with everyone directing intention of being flushed. He didn’t wait their attention upon his performance. The for the elephants to move his way. He shikaris said the tiger was a big one. Each attacked them first off. He showed that he of his fellow military attaches had their had the upper hand. The elephants were tiger in the bag, so we gave him plenty of afraid of the great predator and scattered advice when the movements through the all over the ring. The tiger drew blood grass started. Soon the tiger was at the from the largest tusker. Hours passed screen and paused momentarily. without our gaining a glimpse of the great “Shoot, shoot!” everyone shouted. tiger. Just as darkness was about to fall, Excitement ran high, but he was the tiger was spotted with a faint outline determined to wait his time for a clear partially masked by foliage, lying up half shot, in spite of all his colleagues’ way around the ring. The King sent the impatience. Col. Wylie could not see Rajah of Kasipur around to take the shot. more than an occasional flash of stripes. After much pointing of the rifle and Thick cover obscured the dashing beast. peering through the telescopic sights, a Then suddenly the tiger was fully visible shot was fired. However the deep growls as he made a broad bound over an continued and the elephants continued opening where the grass had been beaten their tremors. The King rode up and down. Wylie’s shot hit the tiger in the added several shots. The excitement was spine, we learned later. While it was not a intense. It was almost dark, and we good placement, the shot did put the tiger couldn’t see what the status was. We down. would have to ascertain if the tiger was The momentum of the tiger’s rush dead or wounded. carried him to the edge of the long grass, Then quite suddenly a dramatic ending where he lay still breathing. The ring was brought the hunt to a conclusion. A flash broken and Col. Wylie gave the beast a of lightening and then a clap of thunder final coup de grace. It took a dozen men caught our attention as the sky became to pull the big tiger out, for it measured indigo. The next moment a severe storm nine feet ten inches. hit us, a miniature hurricane. Sheets of The shikaris performed a ritual to rain sent us retreating toward shelter. The placate the spirits of the great tiger, much elephants all took off for camp, with us as they had done for the others. They clinging on for dear life. The ring had placed seven bits of grass side by side and disintegrated and the shooters were being put a drop of blood on each, this to borne away in haste. Later, Princess appease the Bhandevi (spirits). We then Princep, a devout Hindu, told us that a moved on to the next ring. similar situation occurred whenever the We had reached the last day of Lord of the Jungle is killed. The great shooting and entered the last ring. His tiger had expired at the very moment the

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storm broke. It was appropriate for him to help the man afoot. be called the Lord of the Jungle, for he The thrills of those several days remain was huge, ten feet eight inches, the third vivid in my memory. I recall well those largest tiger ever taken in Nepal. No rain infuriated tigers, seeing the great striped had been expected during that month, yet bodies hurtling forward against the ring of we had a deluge. elephants. The strains of the confrontation We had a very pleasant evening in overcame the calm that I tried to maintain camp enjoying a farewell buffet supper as a seasoned Infantry Officer and veteran with the Royal family, who were cordial of deadly combat. and informal hosts and hostesses. The About a year later I was fortunate to King came outside with the military bag my second tiger from a machan at attaches and inspected each tiger, Hitaura, a fine male tiger that measured complementing each officer in turn. His 10 feet 2 inches. A near shot behind the facility in discussing guns and shooting ear did him in, using my own rifle, a equipment and techniques gave us the 30.06 caliber. I was hunting then with impression that he was a most Gen. Nir’s brother, who later served as knowledgeable sportsman. As the United Nepal’s Attache in London. States Military Attache I saw King I tried several times to shoot a leopard, Mahendra weekly. He impressed me as but each time I missed. Following three both smart and capable. I had the missed shots the natives told me that I opportunity to fire one of his rifles which was not destined to kill a leopard, and had been a present from President they would not participate in further Eishenhower. attempts. They were very superstitious Although I had much prior hunting people with many restraints in their experience I had far more excitement in complicated animist beliefs. those few days than within any other I came away from my duty in Nepal earlier outdoor adventures. Like any other with the conclusion that one who goes initiate I had for a second or two the after tiger has reached the ultimate hunt. sudden spasm of fear when facing the Surely the tiger epitomizes the peak of overpowering roar of a tiger charging the ferocity, incredible strength and savage elephant I was riding. The tiger was a cunning. thunderbolt of powerful action launched in fury. If one fell off the howdah heaven

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THE GURKHA MUSEUM IN KATHMANDU by Major (Retd) Maniparsad Rai late 7th Gurkha Rifles

In the early 90’s a group of ex-Gurkhas The Museum is here to stay, or is it? It had conceived the idea of setting up a museum been naively assumed that HMG having in their own native land to show their given a starting grant would continue to countrymen and their children the legacy give a similar grant annually. Not so! The from the Brigade of Gurkhas in which staff have had to apply for a Government they had spent their lives. Their initial grant each year for far less generous action was to organise the first Victoria handouts. They have also had to explore Cross Holders’ Reception in 1994 in other possible sources of income Kathmandu. During the welcome generation in order to keep the museum ceremony, the famous sons of the country going. These efforts have led them to were felicitated for having brought so organise Nepali Cultural Shows, sale of much honour to the Nation. Naturally too, souvenir items, sponsorship and advertise a case for the preservation of the historical for membership of the Museum. Visiting memorabilia from the Brigade of Gurkhas dignitaries have not been spared either! and Gorkha Brigade (Indian Army) in a Thus measures to generate more funds dedicated Museum in Kathmandu, was put have been receiving a high priority. to the Chief Guest, Prime Minister Girija The Executive Committee with Prasad Koirala. The Prime Minister was Chairman Capt (QGO) Yeknarain Gurung, very encouraging. Ex2GR is anxious but not daunted. They There was delay, His Majesty’s have come a long way but know that they Government finally authorised the have not arrived - yet. They intend to have establishment of the Gurkha Memorial a place of their own. To this target, HMG Trust-cum-Museum in 1996 and allocated has been requested to grant them land Nrs. 1,000,000 (about £10,000). Thus a where the Museum may be built. If and start was made. The Museum is in when that land is available, there will be a Lainchaur, in a side street, opposite the major drive for funding to build the Malla Hotel. It is housed in a rented flat Museum itself and the attendant furniture converted to an office, store and Display and precious military memorabilia to fill Rooms. Collection of uniforms, medals, the showcases. badges and other military items were Appeal: These retired soldiers have solicited from all and sundry. A great start come thus far with little but a dream to was made with donations from individual sustain them. They have a long way to go ex-Servicemen who gave swords and yet and the problems are daunting. Merely uniforms to give the Museum an authentic staying alive is one of them. Readers look. Some Regiments and the Gurkha interested in assisting this band of Museum at Winchester have contributed visionaries or inquiring about any generously with items surplus to their own particular matter are invited to contact the collection. It’s all grist to the mill! The members at the following address: Museum has also purchased medals and The General Secretary books written about the Gurkhas with a The Gurkha Memorial Museum view to building up a library in the future. Lainchaur In 1998 the Museum staff organised the G.P.O. Box 7217 2nd Gathering of the VC Recipients. This Kathmandu time, befittingly, the Highlight was the Nepal audience with His Majesty the King at the Phone: +977-1-422910 Royal Palace. The Museum’s founding Fax: +977-1-418918 members had seen their dream come true. e-mail: [email protected] 31 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 32

ACORN Nepal Trust (Aid for Children of Rural Nepal Trust) Charitable Societyy Regd.g No. 701/1999

President Rtn. Hari Bivor Karki

Vice-President Prof. Dr. Bharat B. Karki

Secretary Anjela Nepal Karki

Treasurer Mrs. Bimala Katuwal

Executive Members Dr. Yagya B. Karki Mrs. Shova Subedi Mrs. Sushila Khadka

Hon. Members Lady Moriss of Kenwood Rtn. Gerald Hughes Mr. Brian Mayhew Ms. Diana Reason Capt. Retd. Ian M. Christie (Ex. Bde. of Gurkhas)

Main Office U.K. Contact Prof. Dr. Bharat B. Karki Rtn. H.B. Karki Balkhu, Ring Road, Kathmandu - 14 21 Victoria Road, Aldershot Tel: 279762, Post Box: 3046 Hampshire GU11 1TQ Fax: 977-1-282688 Tel/Fax: 01252 316058

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FROM THE EDITOR’S IN-TRAY

A Progress Around Nepal the time, the Himalayas starkly visible. In Below is an extract from a letter I the uplands we saw several yak trains received from Lt Col (Retd) John Cross with up to a dozen animals at a time, all who is currently compiling an oral history ‘dressed’ in colourful ribbons and cords, of Gurkha ex-servicemen. This has driven by young teenagers. involved him and Buddhiman in a good The whole journey made a wonderful deal of travel through the country, pedestrian, in its literal sense, change including visits to the Gurkha Welfare from normal morning walks. I was happy Trust’s area welfare centres (AWCs). I felt to note that, even the two days we walked that this piece was very evocative and I about 25 miles there were no aches or have his permission to share it with you pains. However, after eight hours of through the journal: watching where Buddhiman put his feet Buddhiman and I got back to Pokhara down in front of me so I could ‘manage’ safely after a 46-day quest for oral my tunnel vision specs, I did start to feel military history in the east of the country. a touch giddy. I had last visited the east I had arranged for ex-servicemen to eleven and a half years ago. I was collect in eight AWCs, six of which could astonished and humbled at the only be reached by walking and, although overwhelming warmth universally shown. the total distance was 160 miles over Of those who came to meet me a few had seven mountains, the highest climb being walked for three days, many for two, with around the 8,500 feet mark - taking ten the best part of a day’s journey a hours, freezing much of the time - we commonplace for the remainder. Both for walked for three days thrice and two days renewing old friendships and for my thrice. In one centre a jackal got over the historical quest, I felt it was an wire and was killed by one of the porters. unmitigated success with sincere and Early next morning people started unabashed demonstrations of friendship queuing up for the blood and the meat, everywhere. In some cases tears and a the former being a cure for venereal choking voice were a testament of disease, the latter for arthritis. sincerity mere words could not have On our walk three ‘firsts’ were: four shown. We interviewed 178 ex- pine martens ‘cavorting’ all at once; a servicemen to make a total east and west peacock in a field of winter wheat with of around 300, and collected some good his mate flying around overhead; and a stories. Since then I have been very hard Sherpa youth in his early teens, stark nude at it, producing two drafts for the and weeping, one hand covering his publisher as he only has room for 33% of genitals and the other wiping his tears, as my material and until he gets it he cannot he was being scourged along the track, judge whether he wants a little of a lot or driven by two hard-faced women with a lot of a little. rattan canes. I had neither seen nor heard I was delighted to meet up with those of such treatment but Buddhiman said who had been with me in earlier years. that, when small, he had heard that such Apart from men from my old company, a punishment was meted out for one day to man in another regiment well those who had tried to run away from remembered when I walked into his camp home. The rhododendron forests were one evening, having escaped from an Iban ablaze with red flowers and, for much of longhouse when, the previous night, I had 33 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 34

been threatened with decapitation, and includes a study of Nepal’s compliance locked into a room the better to be with its CITES obligations which was decapitated the next - that very! - published in May 1999.’ morning. He was the man who had brewed me a drink of tea, the most welcome I had ever had in my life, I told This is an extract from the Kathmandu him, as it had been a long day with Independent on 12 Jan 00, now defunct: nothing at all till then. Another man had been with me in a swamp when the Unveiling Princely Nepal company of my sister battalion to my ‘Unveiling Princely Nepal’ was the title north, not having been told that our given to an exhibition held in August operational boundary had been extended 2001 by the Gurkha Museum in to the north, nearly caused a horrendous Winchester as part of the ongoing shoot out between us. We only did not programme of special events. The have a face-to-face massacre by the man exhibition consisted of a display of rare on my left recognising cousin. Such photographs taken by three generations of reminiscences rolled the years back in no the Chitraker family who have been court time flat! photographers since 1901. Most of the JP Cross photographs were taken by Dirgha Man Chitraker with some also from his son’s UK Assistance for Tiger Monitoring in work, Ganesh Man Chitraker who took Nepal over from his father in 1908. The display The British Government has given a also featured more recent work done by grant of US$ 36,000 to WWF Nepal for a Kiran Man Chitraker (son of Ganesh tiger-monitoring project in Chitwan, Man) who is also Chief Cameraman for Bardia and Shuklaphanta tiger Nepal Television. The original idea for the conservation units. exhibition stemmed from Louise Weir, of According to a press release of the Headline Book Publishing, whose family British Embassy here in Kathmandu, has long connections in Nepal. Her great WWF Nepal will use the funds to work grandfather was the doctor to the British with the Department of National Parks Resident in Kathmandu and her and Wildlife Conservation and the King grandfather was born in Kathmandu in Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation 1891. It was whilst Louise’s parents were to monitor tigers in the wild. The on a visit to Kathmandu that they met technology of camera trapping has been Betty Woodsend, an American citizen, applied in the Royal Bardia National Park formerly on the staff of the US Embassy, since 1997 and was extended to who chose to remain in Nepal and after Shuklaphanta in 1998. The field teams 40 years still lives there. Betty knew the have been able to use the pictures to Chitraker family well and from this gather information about 28 tigers (24 in meeting the idea for the exhibition was Bardia and 4 in Shuklaphanta). This data born. The photographs provided a unique has been compiled and analysed to opportunity to look at the rich cultural develop a comprehensive and unique heritage and social transformation that record of a species threatened with occurred from the end of the nineteenth extinction. century to the present day. The picture This project is part of an on-going featured in the review article on big game programme of conservation activities hunting in Nepal and India is from the funded by the British Government which Chitraker collection.

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The Gurkha Welfare Trust Charity Race Day at Newmarket 30th June 2001 The Gurkha Welfare Trust was fortunate in being allocated one of the much prized ‘charity race days’ at Newmarket on 30th June. The weather was good, as was the turnout to support the event from the public, including members of the society. Thanks to the hard work of the organising committee and the inspiration from Mrs Lavinia The Band and Pipes & Drums of the Brigade of Gurkhas on the Course at Lynam whose idea it was, along with Newmarket generous sponsors, led by HSBC, a total £250,000 was raised for the Trust. The Late Sir Anthony Duff (Obituary 2000 Journal) It has been pointed out to me that Sir Anthony was chairman of the Society for a short period in 1967/68. He had to relinquish the appointment on his sudden posting to Kuala Lumpur.

FCO Advice Anyone wishing to travel abroad is advised to check the updated situation via the Internet. The website is: www.fco.gov.uk. From General Sir Sam Cowan flanked by the the main page go to the lefthandside Queen’s Gurkha Orderly Officers with menu and see ‘travelling overseas’, Mrs Lavinia Lynam choose the relevant country for advice, current highlights and background briefs.

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Kopundol Height, Lalitpur P.O. Box: 1406, Kathmandu, Nepal. Tel: 00.977.1.521810 Fax: 00.977.1.523737 E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.summit-nepal.com

Small Group Adventure Trekking - Nepal Spectacular ?off-the-beaten-track?, ?Classic?, ?Tea- House? and ?Family? treks and tours in theHimalayan most Kingdoms Ltd stunning locations and enriching cultures. Destinations include: Makalu, Lhotse, UpperCall 01453 844400 Dolpo, Mustang, Western Nepal and Rara Lake, Kanchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, Rolwaling, Annapurna,www.himalayankingdoms.com Langtant, Kali Gandaki Gorge, and, of course, Everest. [email protected] We have more than 12 years experience successfully leading treks and expeditions into Nepal and the world?s greatest mountain range. We offer the best - the choice is yours. Small groups, full service, highest standards.

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REVIEW ARTICLES

HUNTING GAME IN NEPAL AND so much a part of the pre-Independence INDIA life of Sahibs – both European and Indian. The advent of the jeep opened Gone are the days. By Peter Byrne. large areas of formerly remote Indian Safari Press Inc, 2001. Pp xxiv + 342. jungles to weekend shikaris. The controls Illus. Notes. Bibliog. Hb. US$ 70. ISBN 1 and restraint of the Raj and Native Princes 57157 130 2. Limited edition of 1000 were replaced by a much more copies available only from the publisher “democratic” attitude about the use of at www.safaripress.com land and conservation of game and other natural resources. Hunting dangerous game with the In Nepal the situation was different. Maharajahs. By John H Roush and Historically big-game hunting, especially Shuja Ul Islam. Himalayan Books, 2001. of tigers was the prerogative of the Royal Pp xx + 311. Appx. Glossary. Index. Hb. family and the Ranas, the erstwhile US$ 70. ISBN 0 9600830 2 2. hereditary Prime Ministers and de-facto Available from the authors at rulers of Nepal. In 1960, King Mahendra [email protected]. Orders by overturned the elected post may be made to Col JH Roush, 27 government and assumed direct rule. The Terrace Avenue, Kentfield CA, USA. Fax King was an avid hunter and continued 415 459 5183. the formal big game shoots at which it was common to entertain visiting British The early years of the 1960s were a Royalty and other dignitaries. During a special time for those of us privileged to royal visit in 1961 Prince Philip, who was have lived then in Nepal and to a slightly then president of the World Wild Life lesser extent, in India. The British Raj had Fund, was only able to avoid shooting by ended only 14 years before and its legacy pleading an “infected” trigger finger. So was still a palpable presence. Indeed, as not to further offend the Nepalese, who there were everyday echoes not only of had gone to prodigious expense to the post 1857 Imperial Raj but also of an provide a shooting “camp” of great even earlier time. Both Nepali and Indian luxury, the Foreign Secretary, Lord Home rupees were current in Nepal, with the undertook the shooting honours. Although latter worth somewhat more than the a noted field sportsman in Britain, Lord former. It was usual when given a price in Home had never shot at a tiger before the bazaar to ask: “kampani ki mohar?” from the back of an elephant and after Nepali rupees were called mohars after missing twice required assistance of two the small common gold coin of pre- other members of the party to kill the Mutiny India while the name for Indian animal. He went on to bag a rare Indian rupees harked back to the coins of the Rhinoceros. While the shoot was Honourable East India Company in use at condemned in much of the British press the same time. as cruel blood sport and the waste of an Although solar topees had gone out of unconscionably large amount of money fashion (except for Indian Railway Station by one of the poorest countries in the Masters) it was still possible to engage in world, King Mahendra continued his the same field sports – big game hunting, formal tiger shoots, although on a less bird shooting and pig sticking which were lavish scale. 37 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 38

Unlike Africa, with its professional Company, his living and working “White Hunters” hired by rich Europeans conditions had changed very little from and Americans to take them on Safari – those of fifty years before. We learn much the Arabic word for “journey” (the root about the Indians and later the Nepalese, safar – has come into Hindustani and with whom Byrne worked in the past and Nepali with the same meaning – but continues to do so to this day. While without the romantic African overtones), much of the book is concerned with big-game hunting in India under the Shikar (the Hindustani and Nepali word British Raj was the province of the Native for hunting) it is always in the context of Aristocracy, British civil and military the time and place. It must be officers and planters. It was not only a remembered that there were many more socially acceptable avocation but was tigers in India and Nepal when sport viewed as positively contributing to the hunting was strictly controlled and there general good by eliminating animals that was relatively little poaching for Chinese represented a threat to the population – medicine or encroachment on the habitat most particularly tigers. This was of the tiger and its natural prey by an especially true of the planters, who lived ever-expanding population. It was the in close proximity with the native increase in poaching and the deterioration population and wildlife. From the very of habitat that caused Byrne to cease beginning of the British experience in commercial hunting in 1968 and to India a steady stream of books concerning establish a game reserve in his former Indian wildlife, especially the tiger, and hunting ground in southwest Nepal. The the authors’ adventures in the jungle, story how this area became the fully appeared on the lists of London protected Royal Sukila Phanta Wildlife publishers. The most famous being those Reserve is a testimony to his persistence of Jim Corbett – the legendary hunter of and dedication in the face of indifference man-eating tigers, whose books, after 50 and often outright antagonism of the years, remain in print in India and international conservation establishment. elsewhere. Gone are the Days is written in a fluent The year 2001 saw the publication of anecdotal style and will evoke memories two books, which arguably could be the of the Sub-Continent for anyone who has last of the first hand accounts of what life ever visited there. Gone are the Days will was like as the old-order of Maharajahs stand as the worthy culmination of the and Sahibs was coming to an end and the longstanding literary tradition of books shooting of tigers was still a measure of a ostensibly about shikar, but which impart man’s stature. the writer’s deep understanding of the Peter Byrne’s appositely entitled Gone land, people and animals of South Asia. are the Days is firmly in the Corbett Hunting Dangerous Game With The tradition. It is the never to be repeated Maharajahs is in the tradition of another story of Byrne’s life among the people of kind of Indian sporting memoir – that India as a tea planter in Eastern India and which is focused very much on the details of the circumstances which later drew of the chase. The major part of the book him into becoming a professional “White is taken up by the hunting experiences of Hunter” in Nepal – one of the very few in Shuja Ul Islam, a member of a wealthy the Sub-Continent. Even though India had North Indian Muslim family. His father achieved independence almost a year was a close friend of the Hindu Maharaj- before Byrne arrived to work as an Kumar of Benares with whom he shared a Assistant Manager for The Dooars Tea passionate love for the hunting of tigers

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and other big game. This is an account of Peter Byrne, finally shooting his own hunting in India, complete with Solar tiger, a cattle killer over a natural kill, on Topis, whisky pegs, elephants and very the last shikar, having already left expensive double rifles from Holland & Kathmandu en-route to a posting in South Holland, in fact all of the impedimenta of America. The reviewer realizes that much the British Raj, but without the British. of what is discussed in these books is According to Shuja Ul Islam the major very politically incorrect by most current difference in shikar dress between the standards. However, the reading of them British and his group of Indians, was that has brought renewed clarity to his the former wore neckties and latter did recollections of his own days in the field not. With almost unlimited time and in Nepal with gun or rifle. These are resources, unlike most British sportsmen, among the most vivid and happy Indian princes and others of the privileged memories of what were probably the most classes were able to run up fantastic bags interesting and formative years of his life. of tigers and other big game. The To be on shikar was to be an active Maharaj-Kumar of Benares alone shot participant in the life of the jungle – over 300 tigers. Even though Hunting where everything, including man, is either Dangerous Game With The Maharajas is predator or prey – or many cases both at primarily a book about hunting, it does the same time. provide a window on a little known aspect R F Rosner of life in pre-Independence India. Nowadays the princes have turned their palaces into hotels and Shuja Ul Islam, RECENT PUBLICATIONS OF after migrating first to Pakistan, now lives INTEREST TO BIRDWATCHERS in California. VISITING NEPAL AND INDIA Besides Shuja Ul Islam’s reminiscences and other hunting stories, Hunting Birds of the Indian Subcontinent. Dangerous Game With The Maharajas, By Grimmett, Inskipp & Inskipp. contains the account of a formal tiger Christopher Helm, 1998. (Reprinted by shoot in 1963 by the . This Oxford University Press, Delhi, for sale account appears in full elsewhere in this on the Subcontinent). Pp 887. 153 Colour edition of ‘the journal’. It is of particular plates. Distribution maps. List of interest to members of the Britain-Nepal References. Gloss. Index. £55. Hb ISBN 0 Society, as one of our most distinguished 7136 40004 9. members Lt. Col. Charles Wylie was a participant, along with the American Pocket Guide to the Birds of the Indian Military Attaché, the late Col. William Subcontinent. By Grimmet, Inskipp & Gresham, who wrote the account, and the Inskipp. Christopher Helm, 1999. Pp 384. Indian and Chinese attachés. 153 Colour plates. Distribution maps. While the reviewer was too far down in Tables on difficult species. List of the diplomatic pecking order to be invited references. Index. £17.99. Pbk. ISBN 0 to a royal shoot he did loan his heavy rifle 7136 5165 2. to Charles Wylie for the Attachés Shoot and has vivid memories of hearing first Birds of Nepal. By Grimmett, Inskipp & hand accounts of it from both Charles and Inskipp. Christopher Helm, 2000. Pp 288. Bill Gresham shortly after their return to 110 Colour plates. Appdx. Tables. List of Kathmandu from the Terai. The reviewer References. Gloss. Index. £19.99. Pbk. also went out on shikar three times with ISBN 0 7136 5166 0.

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When I first carried out a tour of duty Ripley (see obit. Ripley elsewhere) was in Nepal in 1962 I was introduced to bird long over due. This work does not fully watching by one of the civilian surveyors replace the Handbook but the colour engaged on the final phases of the plates which are well drawn, and the construction of the camp in Dharan. As quality of reproduction are vast the Motor Transport Officer I frequently improvements. It is a rather weighty tome travelled the road between Dharan and for field use but this is where its value Jogbani, the rail head in India. It would lies. Possibly recognising this, the Pocket have been hard not to have noticed the Guide to the Birds of the Indian birds on that journey. Storks, egrets and Subcontinent based on the larger work has kingfishers were abundant in the paddy been produced by the same authors as a fields and ditches. The only field guides field guide companion. This has available at that time were those produced distribution maps that are helpful, my by the famous Indian ornithologist, Salim only real criticisms are that the maps do Ali, which I obtained from Darjeeling. not occur adjacent to the relevant colour The books remained the only field guides plates, and that local names are not for the area, (although A Field Guide to included. The books use the Sibley & the Birds of South East Asia was useful) Monroe taxonomic order rather than the until Birds of Nepal by Fleming, Fleming standard Voous order which is initially and Bangdel appeared in 1976. Over the somewhat confusing. Also stemming from previous fifteen years Nepal had seen a the larger work is Birds of Nepal a field huge growth in tourism including wildlife guide of good quality again based on the tourism. Fleming filled the bill but there same series of plates but in a smaller were no species distribution maps and the format. There are no distribution maps but colour reproduction left much to be altitude and habitat are given for the desired. It proved very popular however likely range of each species. It follows the and went on to a third edition published standard format with species descriptions in 1984. By an administrative oversight I shown opposite the pictures and with very left my first edition behind in 1989 when much improved colour reproduction. I had I returned for a second tour this time to the opportunity to use both these guides Kathmandu. Fortunately I bought a on a recent visit to India and Nepal. The second copy in Thamel for about NCRs sizes of the books allow them to be fitted 700 and thought no more of it until I was conveniently into outside rucksack asked by visitors for copies. None were to pockets or safari jackets. A fourth edition be had with the exception of a very part- of the Fleming book has been produced worn copy on offer at $100 at Lakeside in but with all the new quality work now on Pokhara. Even now copies in the UK in the market its value, apart from collectors, specialist booksellers range from £25 to must now be very limited. It is pleasing £50. At last however a good deal of that at last good quality practical guides material has been produced. The major are now available to birdwatchers visiting work is Birds of the Indian Subcontinent Nepal and the remainder of the by Grimmet, Inskipp and Inskipp. An Subcontinent. update on the ten volume Handbook of GDB the Birds of India and Pakistan by Ali and

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BOOK REVIEWS

The Throne of Stone. By JP Cross. whose tribal chief had, by tradition, been Mandala Book Point, Kathmandu, 2000. proclaimed on a large stone on top of a Gloss. NCRs 650. Pb. ISBN 99933 10 07 7. mountain, but the story stretches to Delhi Many will have read Cross’s earlier and its Moslem rulers of that time. The books describing a unique career in the dramatic khud race described in the story Far East. This career took him from is a true life event, and the knick in the Burma in 1944 to Indo-China, Malaya, wooden roof of the temple at Gorkha is Borneo and back to Indo-China (as DA in actually there to see. The plot is complex Laos) and finally to Nepal. On retirement and requires concentration in order to he settled in Nepal, with special Royal follow the story. Cross has realised this permission, where he has lived ever since. and has provided a list of the main players His book The Call of Nepal tells of how to which the reader can refer. There is also he settled in Nepal and something of his a chronology of events. A knowledge of life and experiences there. The Throne of Nepal and its customs is also essential to Stone is his first attempt at a full work of get full benefit from this well written yarn. fiction. The historical background is It portrays a very basic and brutish life unusual as the plot is set against an early style that existed in those times where period of history, 1479 - 1559. Most feuds, violence and superstition were members of the society have at least a endemic. This original and fascinating passing knowledge of the rise of the house book is not one to be read in bed before of Gorkha, the exploits of Prithi Narayan sleep, requiring reading with concentration Shah and the events of the early part of the in as smaller number of sittings as 19th century leading to the Anglo Nepali possible. The book has been translated War of 1814-15 and thereafter. This earlier into Japanese and there was talk in Nepal period is however much less well known. of its suitability for a film. Cross is Cross has used his researches whilst at considering a sequel to bring the story up to good effect to more modern times. The book can be providing an outline of real historical obtained either directly from Cross c/o events within which to weave his plot, BFPO 4. The cost is £10, incl p&p, much based on the history researched by cheque to Nat West, Sturminster Newton Professor Regmis. The story surrounds the Branch, sort code 55-61-09, or through the inter action between differing tribes at Gurkha Museum. various levels in the Western hills and with GDB the plains people. He describes how the (I have a limited number of signed copies Tibetan monks go about obtaining young available. Ed.) recruits for the remote monastery, and how the traditional relationships between villagers of the high and middle hills and English all over the place. By Gerry the plains of northern India interact. The Abbott & Bob Jordan, Starhaven, London, story tells of how, during this early period 2001. Pp iv + 158 £10. Pb. ISBN 0 of history, these relationships and rivalries 936315 15 6. became disrupted due to famines across This delightful book written by Dr Bob the area and the impact this had over a Jordan (a member of the society) and large area of the hills and plains. The plot Gerry Abbott describes their experiences centres around a small area of Nepal whilst teaching English in a number of 41 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 42

widespread and diverse places around the concludes that, though the Nyshingba did world. These include Finland, Nepal not begin with the obvious advantages of where Jordan was posted as a British access to the main Himalayan trade routes Council officer, Sierra Leone, Greece and or even have the active backing of the China. Jordan writes of his own Kathmandu government until 1962 (a experience of ‘searching for the Spiny watershed year for them), they are Babbler’ in the Kathmandu valley (see nevertheless extremely successful. He obituary - Dillon Ripley elsewhere) with argues that this success is related to a Bob Fleming, co-author with his father, of number of factors including British Birds of Nepal. He also tells of his imperialism in India and Tibet, which led experience of a snake in the Officers’ to an intensification of trade on the Indian Mess in Dharan. Abbott recounts stories borders especially after the Younghusband from , Sabah, Sarawak and invasion of 1904, and Chinese aggression Burma amongst others. These in Tibet, especially after 1945, which reminiscences are sympathetically and prompted them to use jungle border routes sensitively written which the reviewer into Burma and Southeast Asia that less found strongly evocative. Each chapter can courageous and determined groups would be read separately with its own anecdotes not explore. making it a good bedside read or it can be One of the most striking things about read straight through. This highly readable the first half of the book is the care taken book will, I am sure, strike chords with to marshall the vast wealth of available many members especially those who have material about Tibet and to present it worked and travelled abroad. clearly and succinctly. As van Spengen GDB explains, there are "travel writers and travel liars", and he takes time to evaluate and summarise the sources he has used at Tibetan Border Worlds: A Geohistorical the end of each section, providing a useful Analysis of Trade and Traders. By Wim guide for his readers. There is some van Spengen. Kegan Paul International, excellent material here and the various 2000. Pp 307. Maps. Figs. Illus. Glossary. influences upon trade, both secular and Refs. Appendices. Index. Hb £45. ISBN 0 monastic, are well drawn. The 7103 0592 3. accompanying maps and diagrams Wim van Spengen has set out to showing trade routes are also very helpful. produce a detailed interdisciplinary study The second part of the book dealing of the Nyshingba, a group of people of with the Nyshingba and their trading Tibetan origin who live and trade from patterns is a little disappointing. The Manang in Nepal. The book is divided author has gone to great pains to explain into two parts: the first, using almost that the first part was intended to provide a exclusively secondary sources, looks at the context, and I expected a more rounded way in which the Nyshingba evolved as exploration of the way in which the traders; the second part is based on the Nyshingba live and think. There is a brief author’s original research, the result of his description of the way in which village own visit to the area in 1981. The aim of life has been affected by trade in more the study is to chart the rise of the group recent times and there are some as long-distance international traders in a illuminating case histories and trading broad geohistorical context and to stories, but these simply whetted my compare their experiences with those of appetite for more. One clue to the absence neighbouring groups. The author of detailed information about the

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Nyshingba lies in the Appendices, which the land to meet their needs.” In any case, provide a fascinating insight into the they argue, significant danger “issues from problems faced by the author in making a perplexing mix of natural and human contact with them in 1981. Apart from the factors, not from any single cause”, such obvious language difficulties (despite the as over-population, deforestation, Nepalese interpreter), van Spengen had to industrial extraction, or dams or roads. The overcome the instinctive prejudice against remedy is not to resist inevitable change, outsiders from villagers often engaged in nor to “pave the route to Shangri La”, nor trade that was frequently only semi-legal. to make of the mountains a theme park in Rumours that he was working for the CIA which “tourists play and villagers watch”, did not help his case! but it is to seek a “delicate balance The examination of trading patterns, between nature and society”. Easier said in routes and commodities and the scale and books than done in the field. But it can be scope of the trade is the main strength of done nevertheless. They recommend, for this ambitious study and is thoroughly example, the agricultural development explored, making this an important book projects under way in the Richu Khola about a very interesting and tenacious valley in Sikkim and the promotion of the group of people who managed to exploit national parks of Sagarmatha and almost every avenue open to them and Annapurna in Nepal under the auspices of prosper against adversity. the King Mahendra Trust. Wendy Palace Perhaps it is not surprising that an (I am indebted to the Editor of ‘Asian American academic study barely mentions Affairs’, journal of the Royal Society for the economic and social input of the Asian Affairs, for permission to reproduce British and Indian Gurkha regiments. this review. Ed.) Moreover, the great British Resident Brian Hodgson (not Hodgeson) was surely interested in more than the “colonial” Himalaya: Life on the Edge of the commercial exploitation of Nepal in the World. By David Zurick and P.P. Karan. 19th century, however unethical the Johns Hopkins University Press, 2000. Pp policies of the East India Company may 354. Illus. Notes. Appendix. Index. £22.50. have been. Hb. ISBN 0 8018 6168 3. The book is richly illustrated by well- This lavish publication, a field and chosen photographs of spectacular documentary study by two Kentucky landscape and people at work. Copious professors, explores the geology, histories, notes refer to a variety of primary and cultures and economies of the countries of secondary sources. Appendices of the Himalayan mountain range from the numerical tables measure population and Indus to the Brahmaputra river valleys and cultivation throughout the last century. The the Ganges to Tibet. Their careful research result is a substantial contribution to causes them deep concern about an Himalayan scholarship. “uniquely fragile environment” and they A. R. H. Kellas do not fail to repeat their anxieties. (I am indebted to the Editor of ‘Asian Happily, however, they are not only Affairs’, journal of the Royal Society of alarmed but also hopeful. They are well Asian Affairs for permission to reproduce prepared to challenge the “Green Myth” of this review. The address of the Society is: terminal degradation, recalling that “the 2 Belgrave Square, London SW1X 8PJ. Himalayan mountains after all have been The website is: www.rsaa.org.uk) settled for centuries by people who shaped

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OBITUARIES

Mr John Roderick Dunsmore Programme (KHARDEP) in east Nepal. It It is with great sadness that the Society was at this stage in his career that he was learnt of the death in November 2000 of made a member of the Imperial Service John Dunsmore, at the age of seventy Order and was invested by Her Majesty three. He, with his wife Susi, had been a The Queen during her State Visit to Nepal great supporter of the Society and had had in 1986. He retired from the ODA in 1987 great personal experience in Nepal as an but continued to work as a consultant in agronomist. After attending Merchant his chosen field, working to improve the Taylors School, Crosby, he obtained a lot of those living in poverty and National Service Commission in the environmental degradation. With his wife Gordon Highlanders and was attached to he retained an abiding interest in Nepal the Officers Training School in right up to the time of his death. He had Bangalore. On returning home he worked been asked to write a paper for the Hill on a farm in Mull prior to going up to Agricultural Research Project (HARP). Downing College in Cambridge to read Despite failing health he completed this Agriculture. Whilst there he developed a task but was unable to attend the keen interest in rowing and became both a subsequent discussions in Nepal. The staff distinguished oarsman and coach. After of HARP have pledged to ensure that the Cambridge he took a diploma in tropical work he planned would be carried out as agriculture in Trinidad. His first overseas tribute to his memory. The Society will be appointment was to Malaya and four very much the poorer for the loss of a years later he moved to Sarawak as member who was dedicated to his work in Assistant Director of Agriculture Nepal and who gave so much to its (Research) with the responsibility of people. setting up the Sarawak Agricultural GDB Research Centre. It was here that he met his future wife, Susi, who was teaching art at the Teacher Training College in Major Malcolm Meerendonk Kuching. His eleven years experience in MBE BA FIL Sarawak gave him the practical basis of Malcolm Meerendonk, a life member of his future work aimed at alleviation of the society, died in August 2001. He was poverty through coordination of resources well known by a generation of young for agriculture and rural development. British officers who joined the Brigade of After leaving Sarawak he joined the Gurkhas during the late 1950’s and early Overseas Development Administration 1960’s for whom he was their Gurkhali (ODA) as a Senior Principal Scientific language instructor. Officer. His work with the ODA in He enlisted in October 1941 whilst preparing and initiating projects took him studying at Kings College, London, and to many countries including Belize, The received an Indian Army commission in Gambia, Yemen, Indonesia and December that year. On arrival in India in Bangladesh. Despite his wide experience April 1943 he underwent basic training in these areas it was perhaps his work in and studied Urdu at Mhow before joining Nepal that gave him his greatest 6th Gurkha Rifles at their depot in inspiration. He was very closely involved Abbotabad. The next 18 months service with the Koshi Hills Area Development was spent at the depot and for a period he 44 48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG:48871 BRITAIN-NEPAL SOC. MAG 20/10/11 10:26 Page 45

was attached to 2/3 Gurkha Rifles on founding editor in 1948 of the weekly operations against village communal newspaper ‘Parbate’ which has a Brigade disturbances. In December 1944 he was wide circulation providing news from attached to the 2nd (Nepal) Rifles, a Nepal and UK and from units. battalion of the Royal Nepalese Army, as He was a man with an exceedingly supervising officer. This battalion was wide breadth of interests in which he engaged on pipeline protection duties on achieved a high level of competence. the Indian lines of communication in These included athletics, boxing, fencing, support of the Burma campaign. [A music, drama and mountaineering, a contingent from the Royal Nepalese Army somewhat eclectic mixture for a regular was provided by the Nepalese government soldier. In 1963 he visited Dolpo a remote in support of the Indian Army during the part of north west Nepal, only the second Second World War. Units were also foreigner to do so following the famous deployed in Burma and the North West anthropologist, Dr Snellgrove, who Frontier]. After hostilities ceased he was visited in 1956. attached to the Weapons and Equipment Malcolm Meerendonk was an academic and Medical Directorates in Delhi, of proven ability but also a somewhat researching treatment of snakebite. He eccentric character. He always smoked returned to the depot 6th GR at cigarettes either in a cigarette holder or Abbotabad in April 1946 prior to Indian style through a closed fist with the returning to UK and transfer to the Royal cigarette between the third and little Army Educational Corps. finger of the hand. He also had a fondness His linguistic ability with experience in for snakes which he would produce at India and a period of research in Nepal drinks parties on the lawn of his quarter resulted in his becoming the Senior in Sungei Patani. My abiding memory of Education Officer at the Training Depot him, apart from his presence in the Brigade of Gurkhas at Sungei Patani in classroom, is of him arriving through the Malaya, responsible for managing glass doors of the Officers Mess in education for recruits, permanent staff and Dharan from a trek in the pouring rain young British officers. For his work there wearing grey flannel shorts, 44 pattern he was awarded the MBE. pack and carrying an ice axe. He wrote the ‘Basic Gurkhali Malcolm Meerendonk was a character Grammar’ published in 1949 (in Roman of his time who, through his language Script) which was used as the textbook skills and many other abilities, made a for all Gurkhali language training courses very significant contribution to the for many years. Additionally he wrote the Brigade of Gurkhas of the immediate post ‘Basic Gurkhali Dictionary’ published in war era. 1959. This was a most useful pocketbook GDB carried routinely by many British Officers to provide a quick solution to Dillon Ripley grammatical, numerical and vocabulary Dillon Ripley died in Washington last problems. The Gurkhali, or more properly year aged 87. He was for 20 years the Nepali he taught was correct in Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution. grammar and style, somewhat beyond the From an early age he developed a keen everyday language spoken by the Gurkha interest in ornithology as a result of soldiers themselves. This style of Nepali travels with his parents, even walking for became known irreverently by the British six weeks in Tibet in 1927. After school officers as ‘Donk kura’. He was the in New Hampshire and attending Yale

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University he went on to study zoology at Tikapur. From there a column of bullock Colombia University and then followed a carts, elephants and many coolies was career in natural history including taking assembled to cross the Terai with the part in expeditions to the Far East and coolies going up into the hills in the New Guinea. In 1939 he became an Dailekh area. This bird was eventually assistant at the American Museum of found. However it falls into the category Natural History and completed his Ph D known by birdwatchers as ‘LBJ’ ie ‘little at Harvard and was then appointed brown job’. It has to be said that this Assistant Curator of Birds at the species can be seen occasionally on the Smithsonian. During World War 2 he edge of the Valley. Ripley was awarded served in the OSS, the forerunner of the many honours for his work including the CIA, due to his knowledge of Asia. His President’s Medal of Freedom in 1985 role was the co-ordination of American and an honorary KBE in 1979. and British intelligence operations. War GDB notwithstanding he took opportunities to (A less dramatic search for the Spiny continue his studies and collect Babbler in the area of Phulchowki is specimens. He is alleged to have stalked described in Dr Jordan’s book, English all and shot a specimen in the grounds of the over the Place, reviewed in this journal. HQ whilst in full view of a cocktail party The Search for the Spiny Babbler was being hosted by Admiral Mountbatten. originally published in 1952. It was Unfortunately he was wearing only a reprinted in 1978 in the Bibliotheca towel at the time which dropped to the Himalayica series by Ratna Pustak floor as he was taking aim. After the war Bhandar in Kathmandu. Copies were he returned to his career in academe, as available in Pilgrims Bookshop in Professor of Biology at Yale and Thamel. Ed.) continued to make field trips in Asia. He worked closely with Salim Ali of the General Sir Walter Walker KCB CBE Bombay Natural History Society and with DSO** him co-authored the standard work of General Sir Walter Walker died in August ornithological reference for the Indian 2001 aged 88. He epitomised all that one sub-continent, Handbook of the Birds of would expect from a British General with India and Pakistan (in ten volumes). The his piercing blue eyes, bristling production of this work took ten years, moustache and immaculate turn out. All between 1964 and 1974. Ripley was British officers on joining the Brigade primarily responsible for the taxonomic were interviewed by him during his aspects. In 1947 he was fortunate to tenure as Major General Brigade of obtain special permission from the Gurkhas. They were left in no possible Maharajah to enter Nepal to carry out doubt that he expected the highest fieldwork. The story of his time there is professional standards from such officers told in the rather famous book that will whom he considered, rightly, to be probably be known, at least to some privileged to have been selected for members, The Search for the Spiny service with Gurkhas. By the time he was Babbler. The Spiny Babbler is the only appointed to the command of 17 Gurkha Nepal endemic species. The expedition to Division in Malaya he had proved to be find it necessitated a return to India an outstanding field commander having involving a rail journey from Raxaul successfully commanded, on operations, a through Uttar Pradesh to Kaurelia Ghat battalion in Burma and both a battalion and back across the Nepalese border to and a brigade during the Malayan

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emergency. However the end of the Indonesian East Kalimantan. He was one emergency saw the start of retrenchment of the most highly decorated commanders in the early 1960s and he was faced with having been awarded the DSO for action government plans to make significant cuts in Burma with bars both for the Malayan in the Brigade of Gurkhas. From then on emergency and ‘confrontation’. In he would become something of a thorn in addition he was created CBE as a brigade the side of successive politicians and his commander in Malaya. It was not until his military superiors. In 1962 the appointment as GOC Northern Command ‘confrontation’ with Indonesia postponed did he receive a long awaited knighthood such plans. Despite having described the in 1968. This delay was attributed to his cuts as a ‘betrayal’ and having been forthright views which did not always forced to apologise to the then Chief of accord with higher authority. His final the Imperial General Staff resulting from appointment was Commander-in-Chief his personal efforts to defend the Brigade, Allied Forces Northern Europe. He retired he was sent back to Borneo to be Director in 1972 but continued to take a robust of Operations. The campaign involved view of current affairs throughout the countering Indonesian incursions into remainder of his life. Sarawak and North Borneo (now Sabah) along a 1200 mile jungle frontier with

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IMPORTANT ADDRESSES

The King Mahendra U.K. Trust for GAP House Nature Conservation 44 Queen’s Road 15 Old Bailey Reading London EC4M 7EF Berkshire RG1 4BB Tel (020) 7506 1000 Tel (0118) 959 4914

The Gurkha Welfare Trust The Wilderness Trust PO Box 18215 c/o ECCO Tours Ltd 2nd Floor, 1 Old Street 4 Macclesfield Street London EC1V 9XB London W1V 7LB Tel (020) 7251 5234 Tel and Fax (020) 7494 1300 Fax (020) 7251 5248 The Britain-Nepal Medical Trust School of Oriental and African Studies 130 Vale Road University of London Tonbridge Thornhaugh Street, Russell Square Kent TN9 1SP London WC1H 0XG Tel (01732) 360284 Tel (020) 7898 4034 The Gurkha Museum The Britain Nepal Otology Service Peninsula Barracks (BRINOS) Romsey Road 2 West Road Winchester Guildford GU1 2AU Hampshire SO23 8TS Tel (01483) 69719 Tel (01962) 842832 Fax (01483) 306380 Britain-Nepal Chamber of Commerce Yeti Association (Administrative Office) (Nepali Association in UK) Tamesis House Mr Harish Karki 35 St Philip’s Avenue Johnnie Gurkha’s Worcester Park 186 Victoria Road Surrey KT4 8JS Aldershot Tel (020) 8330 6446 Hants. Fax (020) 8330 7447 Tel (01252) 328773 The Pahar Trust KEEP (UK) c/o Tom Langridge Johnnie Woods 5 Foxsteep Cottage Flat 5A Crazies Hill Wargrave 6 Randall Park Berks RG10 8NB Belfast BT9 6JJ Tel (01734) 404004 Tel (028) 9038 2977

If your address has not been included here or has changed please accept our apologies and request inclusion in the next journal. Ed.

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NOTES ON THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY Patron: HRH Prince President: HRH The Duke of Gloucester KG GCVO

The Britain-Nepal Society was founded However we do not have reciprocal in 1960 to promote good relations membership. between the peoples of the UK and Members of the YETI Association Nepal. We especially wish to foster which provides equally for Nepalese friendship between UK citizens with a residents or those staying in this country particular interest in Nepal and Nepalese are also welcome to attend the Britain- citizens resident - whether permanently Nepal Society’s functions, and can or temporarily - in this country. A much become full members of the Britain- valued feature of the Society is the ease Nepal Society in the usual way. The and conviviality with which members of YETI is a flourishing organisation and every background and all ages mingle they publish their own attractive journal. together. Throughout the year, the Society holds Members are drawn from all walks of a programme of evening talks, which are life including mountaineers, travellers, currently held at the Society of teachers, returned volunteers, aid Antiquaries, in Burlington House, workers, doctors, business people, Piccadilly where members are members of the Diplomatic Service and encouraged to meet each other over a serving and retired officers of the Brigade drink before lectures. of Gurkhas. The bond they all share is an The Society holds an Annual Nepali abiding interest in and affection for Nepal Supper, usually in February and a and the Nepalese people. Membership is Summer Outing which is often shared open to those of all ages over 18 and a with the Yeti Association. In the Autumn particular welcome goes to applications we hold our AGM, which is followed by from those under 35. a curry supper normally held at the Ordinary members pay a subscription Nepalese Embassy. The Society also hold of £15 (husband and wife members £25) receptions and hospitality for visiting per annum. Life members, a single senior Nepalese. payment of £300, joint life membership a Apart from the Summer Outing, events payment of £500 and and corporate normally take place in London. business members £50 and charities £25 The Committee are actively seeking per annum. Concessionary rates are suggestions from members for ways of available at both ends of the age range. expanding and developing the The Annual Journal includes a wide programme. range of articles about Nepal and is sent Those interested in joining the Society free to all members. should write to the Honorary Secretary:- We keep in close touch with the Nepal- Mrs Pat Mellor Britain Society in Kathmandu, and their 3(c) Gunnersbury Avenue members are welcome to attend all of the Ealing, London W5 3NH Britain-Nepal Society’s functions. Tel: 020 8992 0173

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THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY

President: His Royal Highness The Duke of Gloucester KG, GCVO

Vice-Presidents His Excellency the Nepalese Ambassador Major General J.A.R. Robertson CB, CBE, DSO, DL Mrs Mayura Brown Lieutenant Colonel C.G. Wylie OBE A.R.H. Kellas Esq CMG Brigadier A.B. Taggart MC Lieutenant Colonel H.C.S. Gregory OBE, KSG Mrs Celia Brown Colonel J.M. Evans MC Sir Neil Thorne OBE, TD, DL

Committee Chairman: Peter A. Leggatt Esq MBE Vice-Chairman: Peter K. Donaldson Esq Honorary Secretary: Mrs Pat Mellor Honorary Treasurer: Miss Antonia Derry MBE John Ackroyd Esq. Lt. Col. Gerry Birch Lt. Col. W.J. Dawson OBE Brigade of Gurkhas Secretariat (ex officio) Dr. R.P. Dhital Dr. Andrew R. Hall OBE FCO (ex officio) Miss Jane Loveless Mr Siddant Pandey Mrs Sneha Rana Hari K. Shrestha Esq Minister Counsellor, Royal Nepalese Embassy (ex officio) Mrs Joanna Thomas Mrs Fiona Williams

Editor of Journal: Lieutenant Colonel G.D. Birch

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THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY

J o u r n a l

Number 25

2001