the GUIDESPRING 2013 A GUIDE TO BRITAIN FROM BRITAIN’S BEST GUIDES

THE HISTORY WOMAN

LUCY WORSLEY, BBC PRESENTER & HISTORIAN

TWO TOURS WITH A DIFFERENCE • THREE TOWNS WITH A SPECIAL IDENTITY • LEGENDS, LIES AND LORE 3 WELCOME 18 4 NEWS FEATURE 007 cars, steaming trains and moving churches. History, culture and events from around the UK. TOUR DE FORCE Two cities give up their hidden histories. Manchester’s underground scene and London’s 12 street art. LEGENDS, LIES AND LORE Facts and fiction from British history. 14 TOWNS WITH A TWIST Sophie Campbell on her COVER STORY favourite places.

INTERVIEW Lucy Worsley – The History Woman. 8

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MY FAVOURITE THINGS Blue Badge Guides on buildings, places, walks and more.

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A GUIDING EYE Paul Metcalfe chooses his favourite images.

2 www.britainsbestguides.org Our aim is to inform, entertain and inspire! David Thompson, Chair to the Guild of Registered Tourist Guides

WELCOME TO ‘THE GUIDE’...

...a new tri-annual magazine featuring Newmarket, King Charles II’s favourite unusual aspects of British history. some of the very best that tourist for horse-racing; Portsmouth, berth to We are delighted to feature our editor, guiding in Britain has to offer. Our aim is Horatio Nelson’s valiant flagship HMS Blue Badge Guide Marc Zakian who to inform, entertain and inspire! Victory; and Whitby, where Bram interviews Lucy Worsley, Chief Curator We bring you the tours, knowledge Stoker’s dark creation, Count Dracula, at . Lucy reveals and ingenuity of Blue Badge Tourist landed on these shores. she started her career in heritage as a Guides: people passionate about Britain, If something offbeat is more your line, guide at a stately home, and says: “Tour whose business is the rich diversity of then read what two Blue Badge Guides guiding is like television presenting; our culture and heritage. have to say about their very individual finding a subject, and being enthusiastic, In this issue Blue Badge Guide and specialist tours: Street Art in East energetic, fun and entertaining about it.” Telegraph Journalist Sophie Campbell London and Underground Manchester. And we really couldn’t have put it writes about three of her favourite And why not check out the Legends, better ourselves. places and their claims to fame – Lies and Lore section for those more We look forward to guiding you soon.

This magazine is produced by the Guild of Registered Tourist Guides – Editor: Marc Zakian the National association for Blue Badge Guides (the highest guiding T: 020 7403 1115 E: [email protected] qualification in Britain.) Project Manager: Maggie Barnes-Aoussou E: [email protected] • www.britainsbestguides.org T: 020 7403 1115 E: [email protected] Publisher Guild of Registered Tourist Guides ©2013 Design and print HMCA Services T: 01423 866985 W: hmcaservices.co.uk Display advertising: Kay Scott ENGLAND LONDON WALES NORTHERN SCOTLAND GREEN T: 01423 866985 E: [email protected] IRELAND BADGE 3 NEWS History, Culture

BLUE BADGE TOURIST GUIDES Blue Badge Guides are the official, professional tourist guides of the United Kingdom - recognised by local tourist bodies and Visit Britain. The Blue Badge is the UK’s highest guiding qualification. There are over 1000 Blue Badge Guides in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. We guide all the UK’s major tourist attractions, its cities and countryside. Each region has its own badge. The Guild of Registered Tourist Guides is the national association of Britain’s Blue Badge Guides and was founded in 1950 by seven guides who met at the historic George Inn in Southwark, a Street Music stone's throw from our present The British music scene is getting its own heroes; innovative artists; producers and headquarters. walk of fame. Camden Town in north managers. A shortlist will go to a public London will be home to a series of discs vote via the Music Walk of Fame website. The Blue Badge is honouring music industry performers One famous local resident who seems the UK’s highest with what organisers are calling ‘the certain to be recognised is the late Amy highest accolade in music.’ Winehouse. Her Camden Square flat guiding qualification The first 20 artists to be commemorated became a pilgrimage site for fans when Since its foundation in 1950, the Guild will be confirmed in May. Fans are vying the singer died in 2011. has been dedicated to raising and for their favourites to be recognised – Each bronze disc will cost £500 to make, maintaining the highest professional likely contenders include Madonna, and will be set in a one metre slab of standards of its membership. The Blue Radiohead and hip-hop innovators concrete anchored with steel rods to stop Badge is recognised internationally as the Public Enemy. souvenir hunters. qualification of excellence in site and Recipients will be divided into five To book a Rock ‘n’ Roll tour visit: heritage interpretation, and in communication skills. It is awarded only groups: icons; influential artists; unsung www.britainsbestguides.org following extensive training and vigorous examination. Our members work in the museums, galleries, churches and run walking, cycling and driver-guided tours Mission Men throughout the country. We are happy to This year is the 70th anniversary of the the theme tune becoming a football adapt to your needs. If it can be guided, we will guide it for you. WWII Dambusters mission. terrace favourite. On the 16 May 1943 the RAF's 617 Find out more about these audacious To find out more or to book: Squadron attacked the Möhne, Eder raids at the Lincolnshire Aviation 0207 408 1115 and Sorpe dams in Germany with Heritage Centre – a museum display [email protected] Barnes Wallis's ‘bouncing bomb’. The including a Lancaster bomber and the www.britainsbestguides.org action was immortalised in a 1955 film, operations room.

4 and Events from around the UK Inbrief IN THE NICK OF TIME Oxford Castle is opening up its prison wing to visitors. The Georgian jail is the centrepiece of a new exhibition opening at Easter. Visitors will follow The name’s Martin, the stories of castle prisoners, including Mary Blandy who poisoned her father with arsenic when he Aston Martin... disapproved of her lover; highwayman Isaac Darkin who performed his own Aston Martin cars celebrates its centenary an open house at the company’s Gaydon execution; and Anne Green who this year. Sixteen Henniker Mews in London headquarters in Warwickshire, factory survived her hanging. For a Blue Badge Guided tour of is where Bamford and Martin – later and driving tours and a 1,000-guest Oxford visit: britainsbestguides.org Aston Martin – was incorporated in 1913. ‘birthday party’. The Chelsea mews house now sports a It culminates with a centenary gathering commemorative plaque – unveiled in central London on 21st July, showcasing LINCOLN ROCKS EUROPE in January. up to 1,000 cars. It will be the largest Up to 150 stonemasons and carvers There will be a week-long Aston Martin gathering of James Bond’s favourite vehicle from across Europe will head to festival from the 15th of July. Events include in the brand’s history. Lincoln in June for the European Stone Festival. Famed for its Gothic limestone cathedral, Lincoln is marking its place as a capital of stone by opening a brand new heritage skills centre. Located in the grounds of the Norman castle, it allows visitors to watch the cathedral’s team of craftsmen at work, and to try hands-on activities – including stone carving and stained glass window making. The festival is on the 22nd and 23rd of June. To book a Blue Badge Guide in Lincoln visit: britainsbestguides.org

PLEASE DO TOUCH Cambridge has a new museum – where touching is most definitely allowed. This hands-on museum features exhibits aimed at encouraging children, families and schools to interact with science and technology. Displays include a voice wand, illustrating how speech works; eye evolution explaining how animals see objects; and a spectroscope showing invisible light frequencies. The museum staff interact with visitors, demonstrating science with Showcasing up everyday objects including: Jenga, to 1,000 cars, plate spinning and ‘Pyro fun’ – which involves ‘setting fire’ to someone’s it will be the hands with methane bubbles. To book a Blue Badge Guide visit: largest gathering of www.visitcambridge.org James Bond’s favourite vehicle in the brand’s history Photo: Marc Zakian

5 News

IT’S GRIM DOWN SOUTH The opening night of Tate Britain’s anti-northern conspiracy, calling death in 1976. The Tate hopes to re- upcoming Lowry exhibition could mark Lowry's exclusion... ‘a shame, verging assess Lowry’s contribution to art the end of an acrimonious London vs on the iniquitous’. Former Oasis history and argues that he was Britain’s Manchester debate. The Mancunian frontman Noel Gallagher said: ‘pre-eminent painter of the industrial artist is a hometown hero – his city “They're not considered Tateworthy, or city’. The critics of the Tate’s lack named an arts complex after him. But is it just because he is a northerner?” of Lowry will be invited to the in recent decades the gallery has kept Gallery director Penelope Curtis opening night. most of its 23 Lowrys in storage, with conceded: “Lowry has been an issue for Lowry and the Painting of only one Lowry, Industrial Landscape, the Tate. Many people who love his Modern Life. 26 June – 20 Oct 2013. making brief public appearances. work would like to see it dealt with For a tour of The Tate with a Blue High-profile northerners have more seriously.” Badge Guide visit: criticised this treatment of the painter. This will be the first major exhibition www.britainsbestguides.org In 2011 Sir Ian McKellen spoke of an of the artist’s work in London since his

MOVING Full Steam Ahead March is a landmark month for the pop video for Sheena Easton’s SERVICE Bluebell Railway. Teams of latter day ‘Morning Train’. Horsted Keynes – An ancient church has been dismantled, navvies toiled for three years in rain, preserved in 1930’s style – is the moved more than 40 miles across the snow and heat to relay a section of railway station in the TV-drama River Tees and rebuilt at the Beamish track – extending the heritage line to ‘Downton Abbey’. Museum in County Durham. St Helen's Church stood in its original East Grinstead and reconnecting it The new track opens on 23rd March location in Eston near Middlesbrough for with the national network. – 55 years after the original line closed. some 900 years, but following damage by The Victorian branch line closed in There are special events, including a vandals it was destined for demolition. the 1950s. A preservation society was ‘Rail Ale’ train, tours, exhibitions and a It took 16 years to find the funding to formed, turning the Sussex railway into through train from London: rebuild it in its new home, and the a favourite with steam enthusiasts and southeastenglandtouristguides.org restorers are now looking for Georgian visitors. The Bluebell frequently To book a Blue Badge Guide visit: box pews to recreate an appropriate features in TV and film productions, southeasternenglandtouristguides.org interior: www.neetg.org.uk including ‘A Room with a View’ and the

6 When I was at school, history was the subject that seemed least like work and more like playing... Lucy Worsley must be the UK’s hardest working historian. She is in charge of five royal palaces, is the rising star of TV history programmes, and spends her weekends writing books. Marc Zakian steals an hour of her time Interview: Lucy Worlsey Lucy Interview: to hear about scrubbing toilets and staying at Claridge’s THE HISTORY WOMAN

The Royal Guard saved Lucy once Princess Margaret’s house- industry: “I visited Mompesson House, Worsley from career disaster. Her keeper’s apartments – and puts me at and noticed people working there. It final interview for the prestigious ease with a story about a Georgian had never crossed my mind that there job as the head of Historic Royal dress exhibited in the corner. were jobs in these places. So I phoned Palaces took place at St James’s So why did this energetic woman all the stately homes near Oxford where Palace. Arriving at the austere with her trademark blond demi-bob I was at university and asked for a job. exterior she couldn’t find the and colourful fashions want to get into And a crazy, wonderful, funny little entrance – the only person in sight the dark-suited world of curating. place called Milton Manor said: ‘Yes. was a bearskinned sentry. “When I was at school, history was the Start on Monday’. So I became their Desperate not to be late, Worsley subject that seemed least like work and tour guide, cup washer and factotum”. asked the soldier how to get in. He most like playing, but my dad’s a Her stellar career went via English ignored her – royal sentries don’t speak scientist who thinks we should cure Heritage to Chief Curator at Historic to the public. After another futile cancer and save the world. So I studied Royal Palaces in 2003. She was young attempt to locate the way in, she sciences at A-level. After suffering a for the curatorial world, in her late 20s, returned to the guard and begged term of maths and chemistry, I and – as was noted at the time – a for help. Taking sympathy, the soldier swapped. My furious father insisted woman. But Worsley insists that it was rolled his eyes in the direction of ‘you’ll only be fit to be a toilet cleaner if an earlier generation of females who the doorway. you do history’. So now I pay my paved the way: “When Dame Ros Savill This anecdote sums up the Worsley mortgage with my degree – and took over at the Wallace Collection in style: passionate communication with occasionally clean toilets for social 1974 they had a discussion about anyone and everyone. When I meet her history research – I am rather chuffed.” whether she might have to use the at she leads me into It was a trip to a National Trust typists’ toilets. Things have moved a a set of recently refurbished rooms – house that steered her into the heritage long way since then.” 8

My furious father insisted ‘you’ll only be fit to be a toilet cleaner if you do history’. So now I pay my mortgage with my degree - and occasionally clean toilets for social history research – I am rather chuffed

Initially she found the palaces ‘a very suffering from chronological indigestion, up in Georgian dresses to illustrate how

Interview: Lucy Worlsey Lucy Interview: intimidating place to come and work’. because everything was out of sequence. clothes dictated women’s behaviour, “I didn’t have anywhere to live in Now it follows a logical pattern.” then getting down and dirty with the London, so they put me up in a little flat “But the greatest challenge is telling masses as a Tudor char woman cleaning in Hampton Court, which used to be the story of the buildings, through shirts with human urine. Henry VIII’s confectioner’s office in the exhibitions, multimedia, guided tours And if there was any thought that Tudor kitchens. It was so cold, spooky or theatrical performances.” Worsley is this is simply playing with a BBC and misty at night. I was living there a passionate advocate for the budget dressing up box, she went a thinking what have I got myself into? actors/interpreters who spend the whole week without washing to see “At that time there were problems whole day in character as a historic how it would feel to be a 16th century with visitor numbers and finances. We figure from the palaces. She does a worker. The reward was a bath in don’t get money from government. All regular ‘interview’ with Hampton Claridge’s hotel. our income comes from tickets, shops, Court’s resident Henry VIII. “It’s For Worsley the devil is in the historic sponsors and events. Fortunately, we fantastic; he answers questions as detail. “I tend to gravitate to the nitty- Henry for over an hour.” gritty, mucky part of life. What did Worsley’s unashamed popularising people wear, how did it smell, what did has opened her up to criticism of it sound like, how did they go to the dumbing down. She explained her toilet? By being as active as possible, and approach during a debate at the putting together enough clues – from National Trust AGM. “It was a bit scary. how you drink tea to how you open a Seven hundred passionate jam jar, you create the bigger picture that connoisseurs, who would be happy if illustrates how society worked.” we just let people wander round with She is currently filming another BBC no explanations. Unfortunately we can’t series called ‘Fit to Rule’. “I am rely on this small group to keep these practising saying that title, it’s a buildings open. We have to reach out to problem for me [she pronounces the what we call the ‘cool rejecters’, a letter R as a W]. We look at how kings’ younger audience who may have never and queens’ characters and personal stepped inside a museum or historic lives influenced the monarchy. So how house. We have to attract them away did Henry VIII’s persona impact on his from football, Facebook or television.” rule? We finish in 1936 with Edward Ironically, one way of luring them VIII, whose love life forced him to away from television is for Worsley to abdicate, changing the direction of have turned things round and, touch appear on their screens. She was the monarchy.” wood, are doing OK at the moment.” spotted by a BBC producer and Worsley’s grand plan is that her Worsley has certainly put her mark auditioned for a series looking at the profile as a TV presenter will encourage on Kensington Palace. Built in 1689, it history of the British home. “I went more people to visit historic buildings. has been home to some of the UK’s round to her house and sat in her bed “I passionately believe that an best-known royals, including Queen talking about 17th century childbirth.” understanding of history will enrich Victoria and Diana, Princess of Wales. She presented the three-part series ‘If people’s lives, and even make them But for all its pomp, much of the Walls Could Talk’ like a media natural, happier. Curators tend to think we are building was dark and gloomy. A six- but Worsley says: “I didn’t have a clue the most important people in the world year refurbishment has changed that. what I was doing or how it would work. because we are here and now and are “The ticket office used to be in the But it appealed to a slightly narcissistic changing things; but we are just a blip Red Saloon, where young Queen aspect of my character. I am an along the way. For our buildings the Victoria first met her government,” incorrigible show off.” timescale is millennia.” Worsley explains. “An immensely Worsley is the antithesis of the important place, which looked like a talking-head TV historian, throwing Lucy Worsley’s new three-part series cloakroom. So we opened up the space herself into the upstairs/downstairs of ‘Fit to Rule’ starts on BBC2 at 9pm on with a grand entrance. Visitors were British history; at one moment poshing 26th April. 10 Factfile Historic Royal Palaces

KENSINGTON PALACE Home to the British Royal family since the 17th century. The state rooms follow the stories of its residents, from William and Mary to .

HAMPTON COURT A riverside Tudor palace for Henry VIII, enlarged in the 17th century.

THE Founded in 1066, this medieval fortress on the Thames has served as a royal residence, prison and execution site - home to the Crown Jewels.

KEW PALACE In Kew Gardens on the banks of the Thames.

BANQUETING HOUSE Built in 1619, this is the only remaining building of the Palace of Whitehall.

For a Blue Badge Guided visit to any of these palaces go to: www.britainsbestguides.org

I tend to gravitate to the nitty- gritty, mucky part of life. What did people wear, how did it smell, what did it sound like, how did they go to the toilet?

11 HYME WITHOUT RREASON ‘Ring-a-ring a roses, a pocket full of posies…’ The nursery rhyme that tells us all about the plague: the rings that appear on the victim’s body, a posy of flowers to keep away the infected air, sneezing, then falling down dead. It all makes sense. Except that the first appearance of ‘Ring- a-ring’ in print was 1881, over two- hundred years after the last visit of the plague in Britain in 1665. And, as any plague doctor will tell you, the symptoms do not include a ring-shaped rash or sneezing. LEGEND

Pointing DIAMOND LI the Finger TEASER Where is the largest It’s a popular story that Queen Anne Boleyn had an extra diamond in the world? finger on one hand. One in every 500 babies is born with In the Tower of London: the this condition, called polydactyly. A simple operation First Star of Africa, 530.4 removes the extra digit; as happened to Bond film carats of blinging brilliance, ‘Quantum of Solace’ actress Gemma Arterton, who was set in a golden sceptre. Well, born with six fingers on each hand. But there is no no. The Golden Jubilee, at evidence from portraits or reliable accounts that Queen 545.67 carats, is currently the Anne had an extra finger. It was almost certainly gossip largest faceted diamond in put about by her enemies – what Boleyn biographer, FACTS AND the world. The a yellow- historian Antonia Fraser calls ‘venomous brown gem took the title in propaganda’. 1985, and is currently in the Royal Thai Palace. Noon is derived from the Latin nona hora – ninth hour of the day. A medieval monastic day began at 6am, Time stops for one man so the ninth hour was 3pm. Good Blue Badge Guides never use vague definitions such as The meaning of the word ‘the olden days’. ‘Time immemorial’ might be considered shifted to midday in the another guiding gaffe, but in English law, time immemorial is ‘a 14th century. time before legal history and beyond legal memory’. A medieval statute dates this precisely to the 6th July 1189, the start of the reign of Richard I. So if you could show proof of unbroken Siesta possession of land, or use of any right from that time, you could comes via Spanish from the make a claim in law. The modern legal definition is that right Latin hora sexta; the sixth must to be in continuous use for twenty years, and there is no hour after 6am – our noon. reason why it could not have been in existence in 1189.

12 VFOR... ER?

We all know that the British ‘V’ sign – sticking two fingers in the air to tell someone to… go away – originated when the French threatened to cut off the English longbowmen’s first and second fingers, to permanently disarm them. When the English won, they waved their two fingers defiantly at the enemy. But look for evidence and there’s no record of captured bowmen being mutilated at Agincourt, or elsewhere. If the practice was widespread enough to launch the ‘V’ sign, there would surely be records from a time when all aspects of warfare were NDS closely scrutinised and chronicled. COWS have regional accents and a group of twelve or more cows is a IES, ‘flink’. AND

D FICTION FROM BRITISH HISTORY.

‘SOCCER’ Whenever is not an Americanism. THE It is short for QUEEN ‘ASSOCIATION stays abroad she takes FOOTBALL’ her own Dundee cake, teas and was popularised by and electric kettle which the captain of the English she insists on plugging national team 1894-5 in herself.

13 Feature Whitby, Newmarket and Portsmouth – three towns that are incredibly welcoming to visitors. They are all...

TOWNSwith Words: Sophie Campbell TW

14 WHITBY WHITBY monkey puzzle trees found on this coast and the Whitby is close to my heart for its beauty, jewellery, black, of course, was popularised by eccentricity, magnificent history and sheer joie Queen Victoria following Prince Albert’s death. WHITBY ABBEY de vivre, which is ironic, really, because Whitby, There are still jet shops in the town. There are Is open year round, on the North Yorkshire coast, is most famous for also Dracula and Abbey tours and a Goth weekends only November to February. its association with death. Weekend every Spring, when practically the The town is divided by the River Esk, which is entire town wears black. Poor Captain Cook, who was born here, gets rather edged out. The young James Cook crossed by a charming swing bridge, and its old served his apprenticeship at fishermen’s houses are described by Mina the seventeenth-century Harker, heroine of Bram Stoker’s novel ‘Dracula’, NEWMARKET harbour house that now as ‘all red roofed… piled up one over the other On the High Street in Newmarket in Suffolk contains the CAPTAIN any old how…’ That’s before she finds out the stands a bronze effigy of Hyperion, one of our COOK MEMORIAL Count himself has come ashore here disguised great flat racing champions. It’s remarkable not MUSEUM Visits must be pre-arranged in winter as a huge dog. The ruins of St Hilda’s Abbey and only for its diminutive size – he was one of the months (November to next door St Mary’s Church, reached by 199 smallest stallions to win the Derby – but because February), otherwise open steps on one of its headlands, play a part in it’s a statue. year round. the story. Most horses in Newmarket, and there are Not only does Whitby have Dracula around 5,000 of them, are very much alive! This THE WHITBY JET associations, it used to be one of the great tiny town, houses around 60 racing yards, the HERITAGE CENTRE centres of jet jewellery manufacture. Jet comes National Stud, the National Horseracing Is a working jet shop that from the fossilised remains of araucana or Museum, Newmarket Racecourse – which has also has an original Victorian jet workshop at the back. www.whitbyjet.co.uk

Don’t miss the wonderful WHITBY MUSEUM Started by the Whitby Literary and Philosophical Society in 1823.

For more information on the area: discoveryorkshirecoast.com

For a Blue Badge Guide tour of Whitby visit: a www.britainsbestguides.org

Whitby is close to my heart IST for its beauty, eccentricity, magnificent history and sheer joie de vivre, which is ironic – because Whitby is most famous for its association with death

15 Feature

Newmarket residents barely notice several million pounds’ worth of thorough-breds clip-clopping purposefully through the streets, nor the fact their traffic lights allow for horses as well as cars

two courses, both originally built on PORTSMOUTH most famous restored Tudor ships. the instructions of King Charles II, who My final ‘specialist town’ – sadly there is The Mary Rose is famous because of was not only a racing nut but actually only room for three – is Portsmouth, her dramatic story. She had provided won the Town Plate in 1671. Her Majesty’s Naval Base on England’s sterling service to King Henry VIII’s To me, this makes it a mesmerising south coast, which is not only home to navy – it was Henry who first place to visit. There are many prettier around 16,000 personnel, but two- formalised the Royal Navy – for over 30 towns in Britain, but the focus in thirds of the surface fleet, including the years when she sank in the Solent, Newmarket is not tourism, but aircraft carriers HMS Queen Elizabeth dramatically and with terrible loss of horseflesh. The residents barely and HMS , currently life, not far from the mouth of notice several million pounds’ worth under construction. Portsmouth Harbour. So valuable was of thoroughbreds clip-clopping Visitors can’t enter the base, but we she that even then divers were sent to purposefully through the streets, nor the can visit its 18th/19th century try and retrieve her guns, but there was fact their traffic lights allow for horses as equivalent, the vast Historic Royal no hope. She finally came to the surface well as cars. Buyers pour in for the Dockyard, a mighty complex behind in 1982, as the nation held its breath. bloodstock sales at Tattersalls, which high redbrick walls, containing The Mary Rose Trust has spent 30 years started life at London’s Hyde Park everything from HMS Victory – on restoring her and commissioning the Corner. Get up at dawn and you will see which Lord Nelson met his end at architects Wilkinson Eyre to build the strings of racehorses and jockeys on the Trafalgar in 1805 – to the fantastic new museum. Gallops, the huge practice tracks on National Museum of the Royal Navy. All three towns, despite their busy Newmarket Heath, which is a magical From part of the harbour you can do interior lives, are incredibly welcoming sight. As a visitor, you are merely a boat tours (from Spring 2013) to the to visitors and have lively programmes spectator as the town gets on with its elegant timber ellipse of the new Mary of events, some of which are listed in day job, and that makes it very special. Rose Museum, featuring one of Britain’s the panels in this feature. 16 Portsmouth, Her NEWMARKET Majesty’s Naval Base on England’s NEWMARKET RACECOURSES south coast, which is Run race meetings between April and October, including not only home to the first classics of the season, the 1,000 Guineas around 16,000 and 2,000 Guineas Stakes, personnel, but and has a whole programme PORTSMOUTH of outdoor concerts, Adnam two-thirds of the Newmarket Nights, in summer. surface fleet HISTORIC NAVAL DOCKYARD THE NATIONAL MUSEUM Is open year round. Tickets OF HORSERACING include HMS Victory and five Is on the High Street but has other attractions, including exciting plans to expand into the Royal Navy Museum and the old Rothschild training a 45-minute boat tour of the yard, built on the site of harbour. Charles II’s original racing stables, in 2014. You can also THE MARY ROSE MUSEUM do a tour of the National Opens in Spring/Summer. Stud from February to The existing feature, the October (closed to visitors Mary Rose Story shows over the winter). many of the artefacts and personal possessions of the NEWMARKET TOURIST four hundred crew members who went down with the INFORMATION CENTRE ship. This will remain open 63 The Guineas, Newmarket until April 1 2013. After www.visiteastanglia.net April, make sure you have an upgraded site ticket (valid To book a Blue Badge Guide for a year) including the new visit: museum. It’s 10% cheaper to britainsbestguides.org buy them online.

PORTSMOUTH VISITOR INFORMATION SERVICE Clarence Esplanade, Portsmouth, is open daily. www.visitportsmouth.co.uk

To book a Blue Badge Guide visit: britainsbestguides.org

17 News Tour de force Tour

Two Blue Badge Guides talk about their unique tours: street art in East London, and a visit to underground Manchester Tour De

18 Interview: Marc Zakian Photographs: Sarah Franklin. MANCHESTER UNCOVERED

In 1954 a mine shaft mysteriously appeared in the centre of Manchester. The locals wondered what was going on. Why wouldn’t the workmen speak to anyone? Had they found gold under the city streets? Were they building an underground metropolis? Then, suddenly, the miners disappeared without a trace. This is one of the subterranean secrets that is revealed in ‘Underground Manchester’, a tour exploring the underbelly of this industrial city. “They were building a nuclear bunker,” explains Blue Badge Guide Sue Grimditch, “112 feet below the city, paid for by the USA at a cost of £4m, it was a command and control centre with a six-week supply of food for those chosen to run Manchester if the bomb was dropped. All that remains is a mean looking 1950’s brick building surrounded by razorwire – but the bunker is still down there.” Grimditch is a native Mancunian with a passion for the secret corners of her city: “The underground visit is an eye-opener for locals who have no idea what lurks beneath their feet. We start the tour with a five minute walk though the familiar city streets. Then we descend into the cavernous Great e ForceNorthern Goods Warehouse – where cotton, wool,

19 coal, ironware, and industrial machinery “We continue along the tunnel until we arrived before being sent by horse and are underneath the most famous road in cart, rail and canal across the country and Manchester, Coronation Street. Above us the world. is Granada Studios and the outdoor set of “You can sense the sweat of the 300 men the UK’s celebrated soap opera. I would who toiled here during the industrial like to put in a personal plea here, ITV is revolution. If you brought in a parcel of moving the production to MediaCityUK in goods by 4pm, it would be delivered by nearby Salford. We really want the old set the next morning. If only that were true of to be left behind, so in the future we can our modern postal system. run outdoor tours of the TV street, as well “Beneath the warehouse is an as our underground visits. It would bring extraordinary canal tunnel, created in the thousands of ‘Corrie’ fans to Manchester 1830s to transport goods, it was and boost tourism in the city. constructed underground to avoid the “Back at street level the tour passes the chaos of the city streets. When steam Midland Hotel. This building was trains arrived, the canal was abandoned. earmarked by Hitler to be the Nazi There were plans to revitalise it with headquarters in the North West once they gondolas and turn Manchester into the had invaded. There’s a poignancy in seeing Venice of the North West – but in the end the air raid shelter, and then the hotel.” they simply drained it. Manchester’s underworld has proved “During the Second World War it popular. “We take over 400 people a became a key part of the defence effort, a month into the tunnels. It’s a dark, million gallons of water were removed to fascinating world down there. It is pitch create a deep-level air raid shelter. People black, so every client brings their own The fled there during the 1940 Manchester torch. Some people say they have felt a christmas Blitz, huddled together for days. paranormal presence – though I have underground They would get up, go to work, go home never seen anything. visit is an and then come back down the shelter. “I love showing people this secret “But it wasn’t all Vera Lynne songs and space. We are lucky to be able to go into eye-opener camaraderie. There are newspaper reports the tunnels. There were plans to put an for locals of drunkenness, fighting and swearing in underground train down there in 1840. the canal shelter, in particular on Saturday Thankfully for our tours they didn’t, but I who have no night – so not much has changed in remind tourists that if they had, it would Manchester. have been the first underground train in idea what “We can still see wartime chemical the world. And, more importantly, lurks toilets (large tin cans) a sick bay where the have beaten London by 23 years. WI provided tea and snacks, and notices Manchester would never have let the beneath explaining the rules of the shelter: no capital forget that.” their feet gambling, obscene language, and my favourite, ‘unseemly conduct’. Though we For information on this tour visit: refrain from offering a detailed www.newmanchesterwalks.com or email explanation of that during the tour. [email protected]

20 Interview and photographs: Marc Zakian

THE ART OF THE STREET

“I never dreamed I would be would have had to pay people to visit leading tours through the area the area.” where my great-grandparents lived The Matinez tour takes in the and worked,” says Pepe Martinez. diverse range of street paintings in “They were Jewish refugees who London’s coolest quarter, including an Sixty people joined came to the East End of London and iconic work by Ben Eine: Sell the me for an art walk started a corset business. House, the Kids, the Wife, it's Bonus “Underwear was something I didn’t Time. “This is a wall mural made from around Shoreditch want to get into,” he jokes. “So I large letters that takes a swipe at the avoided the family business. I was money culture in the City of London - and Spitalfields - passionate about theatre and street art. ironically, where the tours starts.” fifteen years ago you So when I qualified as a Blue Badge The Old Truman Brewery is Brick Guide, I decided to turn my lifelong Lane’s hub for creative workers and a would have had to passion into a tour. canvas for street artists. “It’s like an pay people to visit “On a freezing January morning in outdoor gallery. There’s a Bansky called 2012 I was standing outside Liverpool ‘The Triumph of Death’, a sculpture, the area Street ready for my first tour and afraid made from an old Triumph Spitfire car that nobody would turn up. But sixty that is spray painted pink. We’ve also people joined me for an art walk got a piece by Space Invader. He makes around Shoreditch and Spitalfields. mosaics with small tiles, mimicking a I was thrilled, fifteen years ago you 1980’s arcade computer game.

21 Banksy’s ‘Triumph of Death’ sculpture

It was Banksy who single-handedly changed people’s perception. He is witty, controversial, mysterious and he captures the mood of the time

There are hundreds of these hidden all British Museum and put his own work over London, commenting on CCTV – on the wall – an image of a stone-age his message is; ‘people may not see man with a spear, pushing them, but they can see us’. a shopping trolley. It remained there “The brewery also has work by for several days until the museum Shepard Fairey, an American best realised what had happened. They known for a series of posters took it down and put it in their supporting Barack Obama's 2008 permanent collection. candidacy with the iconic HOPE “That reflects the move from the portrait. Many people say it got Barack street to the art gallery. Two decades Obama the youth vote. ago all street art was illegal – today it “The Hanbury Street Crane is a local is usually done with permission. A few landmark. Painted by Roa over five years ago a pub in Liverpool was sold stories of a building, the original image with a mural on one wall. They was a heron – Roa works around the advertised it as a Banksy, with a pub world, making murals of indigenous attached – doubling its value. In 2008 animals – but while he was working a Sotheby's sold a Banksy for local Bengali man commented ‘you’re $1.87 million. painting a crane, a bird sacred to our “Some artists now see the street as a culture’. So the locals now refer to way of publicising exhibitions. They it as a crane.” ‘bomb‘ the area with images in the So is street art part of local culture? run-up to a gallery show. Mobster, a The Hanbury Street Crane “It was Banksy who single-handedly stencilist from Newcastle, mocks this changed people’s perception. He is with a street mural in Spitalfields witty, controversial, mysterious and – declaring: ‘This Will be Available on like great artists – captures the mood of Canvas Later’.” the time. In 2005 he went into the But galleries may be the only way

22 The letters mosaic Space invader on the wall

street artists can leave a legacy. “Every year a third of works disappear. Sometimes the maker replaces it, and new artists are appearing all the time. But the genre is ephemeral; I have learned to recognise the technique and style of the artist so that when a new image suddenly appears, I can talk about it. “At the end of my tour we visit the Pure Evil gallery. This artist and owner has put on more than fifty shows featuring up and coming street painters. He chats with my groups when they come in. “We share a passion for street art. For me these artworks are like old friends. They are out there 24 hours a day, rain, sleet, sun or snow. In time they fade and disappear, but not before they have made people stop and think.”

Pepe Martinez’s street art walk is weekly on Sunday afternoons from 5th May. For more information visit www.walks.com or email [email protected]

23 ...WALK

... only takes 45 minutes, but takes in two lovely Wiltshire villages and a splendid riverside. It starts and finishes in Lacock, follows the little stream – after which Lacock was named –and then takes in the water meadows of the River Avon. Depending on which way round you do the circuit, you either start or finish with wonderful views of Lacock Abbey. Belinda Gornall, Blue Badge Guide for the South West, ...MURAL [email protected]

... is tucked away in the East End between Shadwell overground and a Hawksmoor church. It is a modern masterpiece, commemorating the day in 1936 when the residents of the East End faced down Oswald Mosley’s fascists. This mural captures the democratic spirit of London in a passionate kaleidoscope of images as vivid as anything that you could see in Tate Modern. Geoffrey Levett, Blue Badge Guide London, [email protected] MY FAVOURITE ...PLACE

... is Liverpool Cathedral. It may be the largest cathedral in the UK, but it is also a wonderfully intimate space, which not only leaves the visitor standing in awe and amazement, but also gives them a sense of tranquillity. It is an incredibly welcoming building and, what is more, is free of charge to enter. I always feel a thrill when I approach the cathedral and am greeted by The Welcoming Christ – the final work of master sculptor Dame Elisabeth Frink, installed just before she died in 1993.

Paul Beesley, Blue Badge Guide for Merseyside, [email protected]

...WALK

... is a Sunday morning thing: starting at London Bridge, heading north through the quiet City, into sparky Spitalfields and hip Hackney, arriving at Colombia Road Flower Market. A delicious bacon bap brunch in Ezra Street flea market, and listening to the busker bands. Then the serious business of choosing flowers for the week, maybe dipping into a little vintage boutique behind the stalls for a browse. Top deck of 48 bus from Hackney Road with my fragrant bouquet, I enjoy the views back to London Bridge.

Eve Milner, Blue Badge Guide for London, [email protected]

24 ...BUILDING

... is a curious tower known as Perrott’s Middle Earth’ lived almost opposite for a Folly, standing 96 feet over the leafy time and the view of the Folly, along with suburb of Edgbaston. It was built in 1758 the chimney of Edgbaston Waterworks by local landowner John Perrott – some behind, is said to have been the say to keep watch over his wife – whom inspiration for The Two Towers in the he suspected of having an ‘improper Lord of the Rings trilogy. I’ve always liaison’ with the gardener. held the Folly in special affection,

The tower is one of a number of because I was born about 300 yards things Favourite places in Birmingham associated with from it and my mother-in-law now the author JRR Tolkien. The ‘Maker of lives even closer.

Ian Jelf, Blue Badge Guide for the Heart of England, [email protected]

BLUE BADGE GUIDES SHOW YOU THEIR FAVOURITE PLACES AROUND THE UK

...PLACE

... is White Park Bay, in County Antrim. This crescent-shaped Atlantic surf beach, flanked by chalky white cliffs, is on Northern Ireland’s spectacular north coast. The bay is overlooked by high ridges offering vistas across 25 miles of ocean to the often mist-cloaked Scottish islands of Islay and Jura. Cattle graze on nearby dunes, and sometimes share the sands with walkers. Maureen Maginnis, Blue Badge Guide for Belfast and Northern Ireland, [email protected]

...PLACE

... is Wells in Somerset. When you’ve finished marvelling at the medieval gems in the smallest city in England, take a look at the surprising swans gliding round the Bishop’s Palace moat. If you’re lucky you’ll see them pull the rope attached to a bell at the gatehouse window when they’re hungry – a tradition going back to the 1870s when the Bishop’s daughter first trained swans to ring the bell for food. Patricia Isaac, Blue Badge Guide for the South West, [email protected]

25 Causeway Coast and Glens Tourism Photography

A Guiding Eye Blue Badge Guide and photographer Paul Metcalfe chooses some of his favourite images

St George’s Chapel, Windsor

I am fascinated by the way people react and interact with the places we visit. As a guide I notice difference reactions to the places I take visitors – even when I have been somewhere hundreds of times. I watch them, observe what they see and that helps me to take a different photograph.

26 My love of London and Britain is combined with my passion for photography. What I try to do with my images is document past and present.

27 T he UK ’s l arge st dr iver-g uiding agency MAP OUT YOUR PERFECT TOUR... A Blue Badge driver-guide will show you the best of Britain We offer fun and informative private tours of London, England and Scotland Our expert guides are qualified and work in all major languages Castles and countryside, monuments and museums, palaces and panoramic tours Book your customised tour with the UK’s largest driver-guiding agency

For further information contact us on: email: [email protected] Tel: +44 207 993 6901

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