©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ICELAND’S RING ROAD ROAD TRIPS

Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Jade Bremner, Belinda Dixon HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Symbols In This Book Reviews KTop Tips Food & In the Destinations section: Drink All reviews are ordered in our authors’ Link preference, starting with their most Your Trips Outdoors preferred option. Additionally: Tips from Sights are arranged in the geographic Essential Locals Photo order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Trip Walking Detour Tour Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, History & within these ranges, by author preference. Culture 5 Eating Family 4 Sleeping

Map Legend

Routes Trips Trip Route Trip Numbers 1 Sights 4 Sleeping Trip Detour Linked Trip Trip Stop r Beaches 5 Eating Walk Route Tollway Walking tour 2 Activities 6 Drinking Freeway Primary Trip Detour C Courses 3 Entertainment Secondary Tertiary Population T Tours 7 Shopping Lane Capital (National) Unsealed Road Capital z Festivals Information Plaza/Mall (State/Province) & Events 8 & Transport Steps City/Large Town Tunnel Town/Village Pedestrian Overpass Areas Walk Track/Path Beach These symbols and abbreviations give Glacier vital information for each listing: Boundaries Cemetery International (Christian) State/Province Cemetery (Other) % Telephone # Pet-friendly Cliff Park number Forest g Bus h Hydrography Reservation Opening hours f Ferry River/Creek Urban Area p Parking j Tram Intermittent River Sportsground n Swamp/Mangrove Nonsmoking d Train a Canal Transport Air-conditioning apt apartments Water Airport i Internet access Dry/Salt/ Cable Car/ d double rooms W Intermittent Lake Funicular Wi-fi access dm dorm beds Glacier Metro station s Swimming pool q quad rooms Parking v Highway Markers Train/Railway Vegetarian selec- r rooms tion Highway marker Tram s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book tw twin rooms CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP DESTINATIONS

Welcome to Reykjavik...... 74 Iceland’s Ring Road...... 5 Around the Ring Road...... 96 Iceland’s Ring Road Map...... 6 The Golden Circle...... 96 Iceland’s Hvolsvöllur & Around...... 100 Ring Road Highlights...... 8 Skógar...... 100 Reykjavík City Guide...... 10 Vík...... 100 Need to Know...... 12 Kirkjubæjarklaustur...... 101 Ring Road Planner...... 14 Lómagnúpur & Around...... 104 Outdoor Activities Map...... 16 Skaftafell...... 104 Hot-Pot Hop Itinerary...... 18 Ingólfshöfði...... 104 Wildlife Watching...... 20 Hali to Höfn...... 105 Höfn...... 105 Djúpivogur...... 106 ROAD TRIPS Breiðdalsvík...... 106 Egilsstaðir & Around...... 106 The Golden Mývatn & Around...... 108 1 Circle & the Southwest 2–3 Days..... 25 Akureyri...... 111 Varmahlíð...... 114 Southeast 2 Iceland 3–4 Days...... 35 Hvammstangi...... 114

East Borgarnes & Around...... 115 3 Iceland 2–3 Days...... 45 4 North Iceland 4–5 Days...... 53 ROAD TRIP West 5 Iceland 1–2 Days...... 65 ESSENTIALS.....118

3 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Destinations

Reykjavík (p74) Iceland’s addictive capital is where everything’s at, and has a heady blend of fresh air, stylish design, artfully hip cafes and bars, fabulous and unusual museums plus a thriving restaurant scene.

The Golden Circle (p96) In striking distance of the capital, this circuit com- prises some standout natural attractions, including the world’s oldest parliament, shifting tectonic plates, the original geyser and a stunning waterfall.

Akureyri (p111) Iceland’s second city packs a punch for a diminutive town and is worth getting to know. There’s a quality restaurant and art scene, and the only decent nightlife beyond Reykjavík.

Strokkur geyser (p28) SNOMEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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WRITER THANKS to Clifton Wilkinson for the job, to the whole Lonely Planet and bouquets to my co-authors team and all who’ve shared ALEXIS AVERBUCK for their collaborative spirit, information and inspiration, Life in Iceland wouldn’t be especially to Alexis and Belinda including Magnus in Djúpavík, the same without the brilliant for sparking gin-soaked dreams Charis in Reykjanes, Kári and support of Carolyn Bain. She of future projects. Thomas in Ísafjörður and Eyþor shared her friends and her in Flateyri. And to the warmest, ace tips on this great land with JADE BREMNER wisest collaborators a writer utmost generosity. Folks such as Thanks to Destination Editor could wish for: Alexis Averbuck Halldór at Visit North Iceland and Clifton Wilkinson for his superb and Carolyn Bain – raising a Addi, Anton, Stefán, Jóhanna, destination and publishing snúður to you both! Finnur, Villi, Elisabet and Odinn knowledge. Plus, everyone and others I met along the way working behind the scenes on graciously shared their stories this project – Cheree Broughton, ACKNOWLEDGE- and their ideas. Thanks, too, to Dianne, Jane, Neill Coen, Evan MENTS my own personal peachy King of Godt and Helen Elfer. Last but Climate map data adapted the Mountains, RVB. not least, thanks to my travelling from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & accomplice Harriet Sinclair, McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated CAROLYN BAIN who joined me for a few epic World Map of the Köppen- Heartfelt thanks go to Icelandic days scaling Hekla volcano Geiger Climate Classification’, friends, old and new, for making and walking the legendary Hydrology and Earth System my relocation to Reykjavík such Fimmvorduhals trail. Sciences, 11, 163344. a rewarding move. As ever, a huge cast of locals, travellers BELINDA DIXON Front cover photograph: and expats helped make this What an extraordinary Northern lights over the Ring research project a delight, and opportunity – to drive pitted Road, Tom Mackie/AWL © I’m grateful to all of them for roads beside vast fjords, soaking Back cover photograph: helping me see more, understand in hot-pots along the way. Thanks Puffins, south Iceland, Marco more and enjoy more. Cheers as big as those mountains go Bottigelli/4Corners ©

THIS BOOK Symington. This guidebook was Book Designer Fergal Condon produced by the following: This 2nd edition of Lonely Assisting Editors Judith Planet’s Iceland’s Ring Road Destination Editor Clifton Bamber, Victoria Harrison, guidebook was researched and Wilkinson Gabrielle Innes, Kate Morgan, written by Alexis Averbuck, Senior Product Editor Genna Monique Perrin Carolyn Bain, Jade Bremner, Patterson Cover Researcher Meri Blazevski Belinda Dixon. The previous Senior Cartographer Valentina Thanks to Grace Dobell, Mateusz edition was written by Alexis Kremenchutskaya Kmiecinski, Joe Piscotty, Averbuck, Carolyn Bain and Andy Product Editor Kate James Amanda Williamson

134 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

Bjorbodin Beer Baths 62 (Reykjavík) 11, 76 A boat travel 124 Hallgrímskirkja accessible travel 124-5 boat trips, see also rafting (Hvalfjörður) 69 accommodation 13, 27, 125-7 Djúpivogur 47 Núpsstaður 38 activities 11, 16-17, 56, 16-17, Fjallsárlón 40 Papey 47 see also individual activities Húsavik 58 Þingvellir 27 air travel 124 Jökulsárlón 41 climate 12 Akureyrarkirkja 61 Seyðisfjörður 50 costs 13, 125, 128 Akureyri 17, 61-2, 111-14, 112 Vestmannaeyjar Islands 32 craters, see volcanoes & Almannagjá rift 27 Borg á Mýrum 67 craters Alþingi 27, 60 Borgarfjörður 67 credit cards 128 Arctic Circle 61 Borgarfjörður Eystri 14, 21 Culture House 11, 76 Arnarson, Ingólfur 40 Borgarnes 66-7, 115-17, 115, 117 currency 12, 128 Arnarstapi 70 Breiðdalsvík 48, 106 cycling 15, 95 art galleries, see museums budgets 13, 125, 128 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 101, 103 & art galleries Búðir, see Fáskrúðsfjörður Mývatn 109-10 Askja 59 Búlandstindur 47 Reykjavík 81, 84 ATMs 128 bus travel 15 business hours 13, 129 B D beer 42 C dangers, see safety debit cards 128 Beljandi Brugghús 48 campervans, see driving Deildartunguhver 68 Berunes 47-8 camping 125-6 detours 14 bicycle travel 15, 95 car hire 12, 120-1 Dettifoss 55-6 birdwatching 20, see car insurance 119-20 Diamond Beach 41-2 also puffin watching car-sharing 121 Diamond Circle 14 Grímsey 61 car travel, see driving Dimmuborgir 59-60 Höfn 43 cars, see driving disabilities, travellers Ingólfshöfði 39-40 cathedrals, see churches & with 124-5 Mývatn 60 cathedrals discount cards 125 Papey 47 cell phones 13, 131 djammið 91 Vík 33 churches & cathedrals Djúpivogur 47, 106 Akureyrarkirkja 61 000 Map pages dog sledding 110 Hallgrímskirkja

135 drinking 91, 132-3, see also Fáskrúðsfjörður 49-50 Geysir 28, 97, 99 individual locations festivals & events Geysir Center 28 driving 12, 15, 119-23, see Brákarhátíð 116 Gjáin 30 also transport Humarhátíð 105 glaciers & ice caps campervans 121-2 Iceland Winter Games 111 Eyjafjallajökull 31, 32, 33 car hire 12, 120-1 Reykjavík Pride 92 Fjallsárlón 40-1 car-sharing 121 fishing 48 Fláajökull 43 driving licences 119 Fjaðrárgljúfur 36-7 Hoffellsjökull 43 F roads 120

INDEX Fjalladýrð 55 Jökulsárlón 9, 41-2 fuel 12, 123 Fjallakaffi 55 Langjökull 68

insurance 119-20 D–H Fjallsárlón 40-1 Mýrdalsjökull 31, 33 maps 120 Fláajökull 43 Skaftafell 9, 38-9 motorcycles 121 Flatey Farm 42 Skeiðarárjökull 38 petrol 12, 123 Flúðasveppir Farmers Snæfellsjökull 70 road conditions 122 Bistro 30 Sólheimajökull 33 road distances 123 Flúðir 29-30, 99-100 Tindfjallajökull 31 road rules 122-3 food 11, 13, 127-8, 132-3 Vatnajökull 40 speed limits 120, 123 Fortitude 50 Glaumbær 63 websites 121, 122 Friars’ Island 47 Glymur 69 ducks 60 fuel 12, 123 Goðafoss 60-1 DVDs 125 Golden Circle 24-33, 96-100, Dverghamrar 37 G 26-7, 98 Dyrhólaey 33 Game of Thrones 30 Græni Hatturinn 62 Gamla Laugin 29-30 Grímsey 61 E gardens, see parks & gardens Grundarfjörður 70 East Iceland 44-51, 46 gas 12, 123 guesthouses 126 Efstidalur II 28 gay travellers 92, 128 Gullfoss 28-9, 99 Eggin í Gleðivík 47 gemstones 49 Egil’s Saga 67, 116 geothermal springs & spas H Egilsstaðir 51, 106-8, 107 18-19, 81, 18 Hafnarfjall 67-8 Eldheimar 32 Bjorbodin Beer Baths 62 Hali 42, 105 electricity 127 Borgarnes 67 Hallgrímskirkja Elíasson, Ólafur 75 Deildartunguhver 68 (Hvalfjörður) 69 emergencies 12, 131, 133 Fontana 27-8 Hallgrímskirkja environmental issues 120, 130 Gamla Laugin 29-30 (Reykjavík) 11, 76 events, see festivals & events GeoSea 58 Harpa 11, 76 Eyjafjallajökull 33 Geysir 28 Heimaey 32 Hoffellsjökull 43 Heinabergsjökull 42-3 F Krauma 68 Helgadóttir, Gerður 69 F roads 120 Mývatn Nature Baths 57-8 Hellnar 70 farm accommodation 126 Reykjavík 80-1 Herðubreið 59 Fáskrúðsfjarðargöng 50 Strokkur 28 Herðubreiðarlindir 59 Víti 59 ‘hidden people’ 37, 47 Map pages 000 Vök Baths 51 Highlands 59

136 highlights 8-9, 10, 6-7 Hverir 57 Laugardalur 11, 77 hiking Hvítserkur 63 Laugarvatn 27-8, 97, 98 Hvalfjörður 69 Hvolsvöllur 30-2, 100 lava fields Hverir 57 Dimmuborgir 59-60 Laugavegurinn 31 I Eldhraun 36 Mt Esja 69 ice caps, see glaciers Höfði 60 Mývatn 108 & ice caps Kirkjugólf 37 Reykjavík 81 ice caves 68 Krafla 56 Iceland Winter Games 111

Seyðisfjörður 50 Landbrotshólar 37 INDEX Skaftafell 104 Icelandic language 132-3 Mývatn 59-60 historic sites Icelandic Seal Centre 63 Viðgelmir 68 H–M Fáskrúðsfjörður 49-50 Illugastaðir 63 LAVA – Iceland Volcano & Goðafoss 60-1 Ingólfshöfði 39-40, 104-5 Earthquake Centre 31-2 Ingólfshöfði 39-40 insurance 119-20 Laxdæla Saga 66 Keldur 31 internet access 13, 128 Laxness, Halldór 97 Lögberg 27 Ísafjörður 16 Leirhnjúkur 56 Skansinn 32 Íslenska Stríðsárasafnið 50 LGBTIQ+ travellers 92, 128 Stöng 30 itineraries 18-19, 18 Lindin 28 Þingvellir 26-7 Lofthellir 108 hitchiking 15 J Lögberg 27 Höfði 60 Jökulsá 41 Lómagnúpur 37-8, 104 Hoffellsjökull 43 Jökulsá á Fjöllum 59 Lystigarðurinn 61 Höfn 43, 105-6 Jökulsárlón 9, 41-2 Lýtingsstaðir 62-3 holidays 129 Hólmur 43 K M horseback riding kayaking 33, 42-3 Malarrif 70 Akureyri 111 Keflavík International Airport maps 120 95, 124 Borganes 116 measures 125 Keldur 31 Gullfoss 29 Meleyri 48 Kerlingarfjöll 16 Varmahlíð 62-3 midges 60 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 37, 101, hostels 127 minerals 49 103-4 hot pots, see geothermal mobile phones 13, 131 Kirkjufell 70 springs & spas Möðrudalur 54-5 Krafla 56-7, 108, 109 hot springs, see geothermal money 12, 13, 128 Krafla Fires 56 springs & spas motorcycles, see driving Krafla Power Station 108 hotels 127 Mt Esja 69 Krauma 68 Hraunfossar 68 museums & art galleries Kveldúlfsson, Skallagrímur 67 Humarhátíð 105 Ásgrímur Jónsson Húsafell 68 L Collection 77 Húsavík 21, 58 Aurora Reykjavík 75-6 Lagarfljót 51 Hvalfjörður 68-9 Borgarfjördur Museum Hvammstangi 63, 114-15 Landmannalaugar 31 115-16 Hvannadalshnúkur 39 Langjökull 68 Culture House 11, 76 Hverfjall 59 language 12, 132-3 Eldheimar 32

137 museums & art galleries Fjallabak Nature Reserve 31 Húsavík 58 contined Hvalnes Nature Reserve 47 Ingólfshöfði 39-40 Glaumbær 63 Ingólfshöfði 39-40 Papey 47 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Snæfellsjökull National Reykjavík 81 Museum 97 Park 70 Snæfellsnes Peninsula 70 Icelandic Phallological Teigarhorn 47 Vestmannaeyjar Islands 32 Museum 77 Vatnajökull National Park 40 Vík 33 Icelandic Seal Centre 63 Þingvellir National Park Íslenska Stríðsárasafnið 50 26-7, 96-7

INDEX R Kling & Bang 75 nature parks, see national rafting 29, 62-3, see

LAVA – Iceland Volcano & parks & reserves M–R also boat trips Earthquake Centre 31-2 Njál’s Saga 30-1 reindeers 50, 106 Ljósafoss Power Station 96 North Iceland 52-63, 54-5 reserves, see national parks National Gallery of Núpsstaður 38 & reserves Iceland 77 Reyðarfjörður 50-1 National Museum 11, 74 O Reykjahlíð 58-9, 108 Nýló 75 Ólafsson, Sigurjón 77 Reykjavík 9, 10-11, 70-1, 74- Reykjavík Art Museum 11, 75 Old Harbour 11, 75 95, 78-9, 82-3 Reykjavík Maritime Old Reykjavík 11, 74 accommodation 11, 84-8 Museum 76 Omnom Chocolate 75 activities 11, 16, 80-1 Saga Museum 75 Öndverðarnes 70 courses 81 Settlement Centre 67 opening hours 13, 129 drinking 11, 91-2 Settlement Exhibition Öskjuvatn 59 entertainment 92-3 11, 74-5 Ósland 43 food 11, 88-91 Siglufjörður Herring Museum 62 Öxarárfoss 27 highlights 10-11 Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum 60 history 74 Sigurjón Ólafsson P information 94 Museum 77 Papey 47 nightlife 91-2 Skógar Folk Museum 33 parking 11 parking 11 Skriðuklaustur 51 parks & gardens shopping 93-4 Snorrastofa 68 Laugardalur 11 sights 11, 74-7, 80 Ullarselið 67 Lystigarðurinn 61 tours 81, 84 War & Peace Museum 69 Reykjavík Botanic Gardens travel to/from 13, 94 Whales of Iceland 76 80 travel within 11, 94 Þórbergssetur 42 Patreksfjörður 16 websites 11 Mýrdalssandur 36 petrol 12, 123 Reykjavík Art Museum 11, 75 Myvatn 17, 59-60, 108-10, 109 Pétursson, Reverend Reynisdrangur 33 Mývatn Nature Baths 57-8 Hallgrímur 69 Reynisfjall 33 planning 14-15, 19, 6-7 Reynisfjara 33 N plugs 127 ride-sharing 15 public holidays 129 National Museum 11, 74 road conditions 122 puffin watching, see national parks & reserves road distances 123 also birdwatching road rules 122-3 000 Map pages Heimaey 32 Route F985 42

138 Sveinsdóttir, Petra 49 S swimming pools 19 W Sæheimar 32 Systravatn 37 walking, see hiking safety 130-1 waterfalls Sagas 30-1 T Dettifoss 55-6 sandar 38 Tanni Travel 48 Foss á Siðu 37 Sandfell 49 telephone services 13, 131 Glymur 69 scenic flights 104, 110 tipping 13, 128 Goðafoss 60-1

seal watching 41, 47, 63 Tjörnin 75 Gullfoss 28-9 INDEX Selfoss 56 tourist information 131 Háifoss 30

Settlement Centre 67 Trandilsson, Gaukur 30 Hengifoss 51 S–Þ Settlement Exhibition 11, transport 13, 124, 133, see Hjálparfoss 30 74-5 also driving Hraunfossar 68 Seyðisfjörður 17, 50 trekking, see hiking Öxarárfoss 27 shopping 133, see also Tröllaskagi Peninsula 14, 62 Selfoss 56 individual locations Seljalandsfoss 32 Siglufjörður Herring U Skógafoss 33 Museum 62 Ullarselið 67 Svartifoss 39 Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum 60 Upper Borgarbyggð 68 Systrafoss 37 Skaftafell 9, 17, 38-9, 104 weather 12 Skallagrímsson, Egil 67 V websites 11, 13, 121, 122 Skeiðarársandur 38 Varmahlíð 62-3, 114 weights 125 skiing 56, 61-2, 111 Vatnajökull National Park 40 West Iceland 64-71, 66-7 Skógar 33, 100 Vatnsnes Peninsula 63 Westman Islands, see smoking 125 vegetarians 13 Vestmannaeyjar Islands Snæfellsjökull National whale watching 11, 21, 58, 81 Park 70 Vestmannaeyjar Islands 14, 32 whitewater, see rafting Snæfellsnes Peninsula 14, 16, 70 Vesturland, see West Iceland wi-fi 13, 128 Snorrastofa 68 Viðgelmir 68 wildlife watching 20-1 snowmobile rides 42 Vík 33, 100-1 WWII 50 South Coast 102 Vindbelgjarfjall 108 Southeast Iceland 34-43, 36-7 visas 12, 131 Þ Southwest Iceland 24-33, 26-7 Víti 108 Þekkingarmiðstöð spas, see geothermal springs volcanoes & craters 31-2 Sjálfsbjargar 124 & spas Askja 59 Þingvallavatn 27 speed limits 120, 123 Eldfell 32 Þingvellir 26-7 Staðarskáli 63 Eyjafjallajökull 32 Þingvellir National Park 26-7, Stöðvarfjörður 49 Hekla 30 96-7 Stokksnes 46-7 Helgafell 32 Þjórsá 30 Stöng 30 Hverfjall 59 Þjórsárdalur 30 Strokkur 28 Krafla 56-7 Þjórsárstofa 30 Sturluson, Snorri 68 Leirhnjúkur 56 Þórbergssetur 42 Stykkishólmur 70 Vestmannaeyjar Islands 32 Þórðarson, Þórbergur 42 sustainable travel 130 Víti 108 Þórsmörk 14, 31

139 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR WRITERS

ALEXIS AVERBUCK CAROLYN BAIN

Alexis has travelled and lived all over the world, from A travel writer and editor for more than 20 years, Sri Lanka to Ecuador, Zanzibar and Antarctica. In Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various recent years she’s been living on the Greek island of corners of the globe, including Denmark, London, St Hydra; sampling oysters in Brittany and careening Petersburg and Nantucket. She has authored more through hill-top villages in Provence; and adventuring than 50 Lonely Planet titles, with her all-time favourite along Iceland’s lava fields, sparkling fjords and glacier research destination being Iceland. Her love of the tongues. A travel writer for more than two decades, country recently led her to relocate from Melbourne, Alexis is also a painter – visit www.alexisaverbuck.com. Australia to Reykjavík.

JADE BREMNER BELINDA DIXON

Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda She has lived in and reported on four different regions. has been (gleefully) travelling, researching and writing Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her navigating the weirder the better, and it’s no coincidence that mountain passes and soaking in hot pots in Iceland’s many of her favourite places have some of the best Westfjords, gazing at Verona’s frescoes and fossil waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines hunting on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. Belinda is also and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has a podcaster and adventure writer and helps lead contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent. wilderness expeditions; see belindadixon.com.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 2nd edition – May 2019 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78657 840 2 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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