Iceland's Ring Road Road Trips 1

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ICELAND’S RING ROAD ROAD TRIPS

This edition written and researched by Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Symbols In This Book Reviews KTop Tips Food & In the Destinations section: Drink All reviews are ordered in our authors’ Link preference, starting with their most Your Trips Outdoors preferred option. Additionally: Tips from Sights are arranged in the geographic Essential Locals Photo order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Trip Walking Detour Tour Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, History & within these ranges, by author preference. Culture 5 Eating Family 4 Sleeping

Map Legend

Routes Trips 1 Sights 4 Sleeping Trip Route Trip Numbers Trip Detour r 5 Linked Trip Trip Stop Beaches Eating Walk Route Tollway Walking tour 2 Activities 6 Drinking Freeway Primary Trip Detour C Courses 3 Entertainment Secondary Tertiary Population T Tours 7 Shopping Lane Capital (National) Unsealed Road Capital z Festivals Information Plaza/Mall (State/Province) & Events 8 & Transport Steps City/Large Town Tunnel Town/Village Pedestrian Overpass Areas Walk Track/Path Beach These symbols and abbreviations give Glacier vital information for each listing: Boundaries Cemetery International (Christian) State/Province Cemetery (Other) % Telephone # Pet-friendly Cliff Park number g Forest Bus h Opening hours Hydrography Reservation f Ferry p River/Creek Urban Area Parking j Tram Intermittent River Sportsground n Nonsmoking Swamp/Mangrove d Train a Canal Transport Air-conditioning apt apartments Water Airport i Internet access d double rooms Dry/Salt/ Cable Car/ W Intermittent Lake Funicular Wi-fi access dm dorm beds s Glacier Metro station Swimming pool q quad rooms Parking v Vegetarian r rooms Highway Markers Train/Railway selection Highway marker Tram s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book tw twin rooms CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP DESTINATIONS

Welcome to Reykjavik...... 74 Iceland’s Ring Road...... 4 Around the Ring Road...... 96 Iceland’s Ring Road Map...... 6 Þingvellir National Park...... 96 Iceland’s Laugarvatn...... 97 Ring Road Highlights...... 8 Geysir & Gullfoss...... 97 Reykjavík City Guide...... 10 Flúðir...... 98 Need to Know...... 12 Hvolsvöllur & Around...... 98 Ring Road Planner...... 14 Skógar...... 98 Outdoor Adventures Map...... 16 Vík...... 99 Hot-Pot Hop...... 18 Kirkjubæjarklaustur...... 100 Wildlife Watching...... 20 Skaftafell...... 101 Hali to Höfn...... 103 Höfn...... 103 ROAD TRIPS Djúpivogur...... 104 Egilsstaðir & Around...... 104 The Golden Mývatn & Around...... 106 1 Circle & the Southwest 2–3 Days..... 24 Akureyri...... 109 Varmahlíð...... 113 Southeast 2 Iceland 3–4 Days...... 34 Hvammstangi & Around...... 113 3 East Borgarnes & Around...... 114 Iceland 2–3 Days...... 44 Hvalfjörður...... 117 North 4 Iceland 4–5 Days...... 52

West 5 Iceland 1–2 Days...... 64 ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS.....118

Road Trips

The Golden Circle 1 & the Southwest 2–3 Days A stunning region of iconic wonders, including Iceland’s historic parliament and the original geyser. (p24) Southeast Iceland 3–4 Days 2 A captivatingly vast and surreal landscape dominated by mighty Vatnajökull ice cap. (p34) East Iceland 2–3 Days 3 A quieter landscape of fishing villages, black- sand beaches, mountains and fjords. (p44) North Iceland 4–5 Days 4 An epic ride northeast across geologically spectacular landscapes packed full of highlights. (p52) West Iceland 1–2 Days 5 A compact tour through Saga country, from highland glaciers to ocean-fringed coastline near the capital. (p64)

Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon (p36) KAVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Destinations

Reykjavík (p74) Iceland’s addictive capital is where everything’s at, and has a heady blend of fresh air, stylish design, artfully hip cafes and bars, fabulous and unusual museums plus a thriving restaurant scene.

The Golden Circle (p96) In striking distance of the capital, this circuit com- prises some standout natural attractions, including the world’s oldest parliament, shifting tectonic plates, the original geyser and a stunning waterfall.

Akureyri (p109) Iceland’s second city packs a punch for a diminutive town and is worth getting to know. There’s a quality restaurant and art scene, and the only decent nightlife beyond Reykjavík.

Reykjavík (p74) TTSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

birdwatching 21 Núpsstaður 37 A Borgarfjörður Eystri 14 Papey 47 accommodation 13, 124-6 Grímsey 61 climate 12 reservations 27 Ingólfshöfði 39 costs 13, 126, 127 Reykjavík 11, 85-7 Mývatn 59 craters, see volcanoes activities 16-17, 16-17, see Vestmannaeyjar 32 & craters also individual activities Viðey 88 credit cards 128 air travel 124 Bláfjöll 81 Culture House 75 Akureyri 56, 60-1, Blue Lagoon 87 currency 128 109-13, 110 boat tours 32, 41, 81 cycling 15 Alþingi 59 boat travel 124 Reykjavík 81, 95 animals 21, see also Borg á Mýrum 67 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 100 individual animals Borgarfjörður 67 Mývatn 108 Árbær Open Air Museum 80 Borgarfjörður Eystri 14 Arctic foxes 21, 116 Borgarfjördur Museum 114 D area codes 130 Borgarnes 66-7, 114-17, 115 dangers, see safety Arnarstapi 68 Breiðármörk Trail 102-3 Deildartunguhver 70 art galleries, see museums Breiðdalsvík 48, 50, 104 detours from Ring Road 14 & galleries Breiðdalur 50-1, 104 Dettifoss 55-6 Ásgrímur Jónsson bus travel 15 Collection 75 Diamond Circle 14 business hours 128-9 Askja 60 Dimmuborgir 58 ATMs 128 disabilities, travellers with 131 Aurora Reykjavík 79 C campervans 121 Djúpivogur 47, 104 B camping 124-5 dog sledding 56, 70, 108 car travel, see driving driving 118-23 beer 38, 62, 92 cell phones 131 car hire 15, 120-1 Berufjörður 104 churches documents 119 Berunes 47-8 Akureyrarkirkja 61 driving licence 119 bicycle travel, see cycling Hallgrímskirkja F roads 122 birds, see (Reykjavík) 71, 78 fuel 122-3 individual species Hallgrímskirkja insurance 119 (Saurbær) 68 maps 119-20 000 Map pages

135 driving (continued) Glymur 68-9 road distances 123 G Golden Circle 25-33, 96-8 road rules 122 galleries, see museums Goðafoss 59-60 safety 121-2 & galleries Grímsey 61 websites 120 Game of Thrones 30 Grundarfjörður 68 DVDs 128 gas 122-3 Gullfoss 28, 97-8 gay travellers 127 E geological dangers 129-30 H geothermal springs 19, see INDEX East Iceland 44-51, 46 Hafnarfjall 67-8 also spas Egil’s Saga 67 Háifoss 30

D-H Blue Lagoon 87 Egilsstaðir 51, 104-6, 105 hákarl 90 Borgarnes 67 Eldfell 32 Hali 41, 103 Deildartunguhver 70 Eldhraun 36 Hallgrímskirkja Gamla Laugin 29 electricity 127 (Reykjavík) 71, 78 Geysir 28 emergencies 12 Hallgrímskirkja (Saurbær) 68 Landmannalaugar 29 environmental issues 90, 130 Harpa 71, 77-8 Laugardalslaug 80 Esja 69 Heimaey 32 Laugardalur 79, 80 Eyjafjallajökull 31 Heinabergsjökull 41-2 Laugarvatn 27 Hekla 30 Mývatn Nature Baths 57 Helgafell 32 F Reykjavík 80, 81 Hellnar 68 F roads 122 safety 129-30 Hengifoss 51 farmhouse Strandir Coast 116 Herðubreið 60 accommodation 125-6 Sundhöllin 80 Herðubreiðarlindir 60 festivals & events Geysir 28, 97-8 highlands, the 29, 60 Akureyri 56, 111 Gjáin 30 highlights 8-9 Borgarnes 114 glaciers & ice caps 42, 130 hiking Höfn 103 Eyjafjallajökull 31 Reykjavík 81, 84-5 Breiðármörk Fjallsárlón 40 Trail 102-3 Fimmvörðuháls 31, 99 Fláajökull 42-3 Esja 69 Fjallabak Nature Hoffellsjökull 43 Reserve 29 Fimmvörðuháls 99 Jökulsárlón 9, 40-1, 102-3 Fjalladýrð 55 Hafnarfjall 67 Langjökull 70 Fjallsárlón 40 Hornstrandir nature Mýrdalsjökull 32 reserve 116 Fjaðrárgljúfur 36-7 safety 100, 130 Hvalfjörður 68-9 Fláajökull 42-3 Skaftafell 9, 38-9, 101-2 Laugavegurinn 29 flies 108 Snæfellsjökull 68 safety 129-30 Flúðir 28-9, 98 Sólheimajökull 32 hitchhiking 15 food 13, 90, 127 Vatnajökull 9, 38, 40 Hjálparfoss 30 fuel 122-3 walks 42 Hlíðarfjall 56 Þórsmörk 14, 29 Hljómskálagarður 75 Glaumbær 62 Hoffellsjökull 43 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Höfn 43, 103-4 000 Map pages Museum 97 Höfði 59

136 holidays 129 Ásgrímur Jónsson Hólmur 42-3 L Collection 75 Hornstrandir nature Lagarfljót 51 Aurora Reykjavík 79 reserve 116 Landeyjahöfn 32 Borgarfjördur Museum 114 hot pots, see geothermal Landmannalaugar 29 Culture House 75 springs Langjökull 70 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness hot springs, see geothermal language 132-3 Museum 97 springs Laugar Spa 80 Icelandic Phallological Hraunfossar 70 Museum 76-7

Laugardalslaug 80 INDEX Húsafell 70 Kling & Bang 79 Laugardalur 79-80

Húsavik 58 National Gallery of Laugarvatn 27-8, 97 H-O Hvalfjörður 68-9, 117 Iceland 75 Laugavegur 71, 75-8 Hvammstangi 62-3, 113-14 National Museum 70-1, 74 Laugavegurinn hike 29 Hvanneyri 67 Reykjavík Art Museum – lava fields, see also Ásmundarsafn 79 Hverir 56-7 volcanoes & craters Hvítserkur 63 Reykjavík Art Museum – Blue Lagoon 87 Hafnarhús 74-5 Hvolsvöllur 30-1, 98 Borgarnes 66 Reykjavík Art Museum – Dimmuborgir 58 Kjarvalsstaðir 78 I Hraunfossar 70 Saga Museum 71 ice caps, see glaciers Krafla 56 Settlement Centre 67 & ice caps Lofthellir 107 Settlement Exhibition ice caves 42, see also Snæfellsnes 71, 74 glaciers & ice caps Peninsula 14, 68 Sigurgeir’s Bird Icelandic language 132-3 Laxness, Halldór 97 Museum 59 Icelandic Phallological Leirhnjúkur 56 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Museum 76-7 lesbian travellers 127 75, 79 Illugastaðir 63 Ljósafoss Power Skógar Folk Museum 32 Ingólfshöfði 39, 102 Station 96 Sögusetrið 30 insurance 119 local experiences 50 Víkin Maritime Museum 71 internet access 127 Lofthellir 107 Whales of Iceland 71, 79 Lómagnúpur 37-8, 101 Þórbergssetur 41 J music 122 Jökulsá á Fjöllum 60 M Mýrdalsjökull 32 Jökulsárlón 9, 40-1, 102-3 Malarrif 68 Mývatn 56, 57, 58-9, 106-9, 107 maps 119-20 K measures 128 N Keldur 30 midges 108 Kirkjubæjarklaustur mobile phones 131 National Gallery of 37, 100-1 money 128 Iceland 75 Kirkjufell 68 motorcycles, see driving National Museum 70-1, 74 Kirkjugólf 37 Möðrudalur 54-5, 106 Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach 80-1 Kling & Bang 79 museums & galleries newspapers 128 Krafla 56, 106-7, 107 Árbær Open Air Museum 80 Njál’s Saga 30

137 North Iceland 52-63, 54-55 food 11, 87-91 skiing 56, 81, 110-11 Núpsstaður 37 history 74 Skógar 31-3, 98-9 medical services 94 Skógar Folk Museum 32 O shopping 93-4 Skólavörðustígur 71, 75-8 Ódáðahraun 60 sights 74-80 Skútustaðagígar 59 Old Harbour tourist offices 94 smoking 128 (Reykjavík) 71, 78-9 tours 81 Snorrastofa 70 Omnom Chocolate 71, 78-9 travel to/from 95 snowmobiling 56

INDEX opening hours 128-9 travel within 95 Snæfellsjökull National Ósland 43 websites 11 Park 68

O-U Reykjavík Art Museum – Snæfellsnes P Ásmundarsafn 79 Peninsula 14, 68 Reykjavík Art Museum – Snæfellsstofa – National Papey 47 Hafnarhús 74-5 Park Visitor Centre 104-5 petrol 122-3 Reykjavík Art Museum – Sögusetrið 30 planning 14-21 Kjarvalsstaðir 78 Sólheimajökull 32 plugs 127 Reykjavík Botanic Southeast Iceland public holidays 129 Gardens 79 34-43, 36-7 puffin meat 90 ridesharing 15 Southwest Iceland puffin watching 21 road rules 122 25-33, 26-7 Borgarfjörđur Eystri 21 road distances 123 spas, see also geothermal Grímsey 61 Route F985 41 springs Heimaey 32 Blue Lagoon 87 Húsavik 58 S Egilsstaðir 105 Krauma 70 Ingólfshöfði 39 safety 129-30 Laugar 80 Papey 47 beaches 100 Staðarskáli 63 Reykjavík 81 driving 121-2 Stokksnes 46-7 Vestmannaeyjar 32 geological dangers 129-30 Strandir Coast 116 Vík 33 glaciers 100, 130 Sturluson, Snorri 70 Saga Museum 71 Stykkishólmur 68 R sagas 30, 67, 98 Stöng 30 responsible travel 90, 100, sandur 38 Sundhöllin 80 130 seals 21 sustainable travel 90, 130 Reykjahlíð 57-8 senior travellers 128 Svartifoss 38 Reykjavík 9, 10-11, 69-71, Settlement Centre 67 74-95, 76-7, 82-3 Settlement Exhibition 71, 74 accommodation 11, 85-7 Seyðisfjörður 51 T activities 80-1 shark meat 90 telephone services 130-1 courses 81 Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum 59 tipping 128 drinking & nightlife 91-3 Sigurjón Ólafsson Tjörnin 75 entertainment 93 Museum 75, 79 tourist information 131 festivals & events 81, 84-5 Skaftafell 9, 38-9, 101-2 transport 13, 124, 133, see Skansinn 32 also driving 000 Map pages Skeiðarársandur 38 trekking, see hiking

138 Tröllaskagi Peninsula 14, Lakagígar 40 websites 11, 13, 120, 128 56, 62 Leirhnjúkur 56 weights 128 Möðrudalur 106 West Iceland 64-71, 66-7 U Skútustaðagígar 59 Westfjords 116 Ullarselið 67 Snæfellsjökull National whale meat 90 Upper Borgarbyggð 70 Park 68 whale watching 21 Vestmannaeyjar Húsavík 58 Islands 32 Reykjavík 71, 81 V Víti 60, 106

Whales of Iceland 71, 79 INDEX Varmahlíð 61-2, 113 white-water rafting 62 Vatnajökull National Park 9, W wi-fi 127 V-

38, 40 Ö wildlife 21, see also Vatnsnes Peninsula 63 walking, see hiking individual animals Vestmannaeyjar 14, 32 waterfalls Vík 33, 99-100 Dettifoss 55-6 Víkin Maritime Museum 71 Flögufoss 50 Þ Vindbelgjarfjall 107 Glymur 68-9 Þingvellir 26-7, 96-7 visas 131 Goðafoss 59-60 Þjórsá river 30 Víti 60, 106 Gullfoss 28 Þjórsárdalur 30 Viðey 88 Háifoss 30 Þjórsárstofa 30 Viðgelmir 70 Hengifoss 51 Þórbergssetur 41 volcanoes & craters Hjálparfoss 30 Þórsmörk 14, 29 Askja 60 Hraunfossar 70 Þórðarson, Þórbergur 41 Heimaey 32 Skógafoss 31 Hekla 30 Svartifoss 38 Ö Systrafoss 37 Hverfjall 58 Öndverðarnes 68 Öxarárfoss 27 Hvolsvöllur 30-1 Öskjuvatn 60 Krafla 56 weather 12

OUR WRITERS

Andy Symington Andy has written or worked on over Alexis Averbuck Alexis Averbuck was born in Oakland, a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet CA, and earned a degree at Harvard University. She has (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other travelled and lived all over the world, from Sri Lanka publishing companies, and has published articles and India to Mexico, Europe and Antarctica. In more on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, recent years she’s been living in Hydra, Greece, and magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates exploring her adopted homeland; travelling to France to a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working sample oysters in Brittany and careen through hill-top on several fiction and nonfiction writing projects. Andy, villages in Provence; and adventuring along Iceland’s from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years surreal lava fields, sparkling fjords and glacier tongues. ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung A travel writer for over two decades, Alexis has lived in corner of the world, he can probably be found watching Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat the tragically poor local football side or tasting local and written books on her journeys through Asia, Europe wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains. and the Americas. She also appears in videos and on television promoting travel and adventure, and is a painter – visit www.alexisaverbuck.com.

Carolyn Bain A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Petersburg and Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia, to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia to the luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slovenia’s alpine lakes. The Nordic region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure. Carolyn writes about travel and food for a range of publishers; see carolynbain. com.au for more.

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