Iceland's Ring Road Road Trips 1
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ICELAND’S RING ROAD ROAD TRIPS This edition written and researched by Andy Symington, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Symbols In This Book Reviews KTop Tips Food & In the Destinations section: Drink All reviews are ordered in our authors’ Link preference, starting with their most Your Trips Outdoors preferred option. Additionally: Tips from Sights are arranged in the geographic Essential Locals Photo order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Trip Walking Detour Tour Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, History & within these ranges, by author preference. Culture 5 Eating Family 4 Sleeping Map Legend Routes Trips 1 Sights 4 Sleeping Trip Route Trip Numbers Trip Detour r 5 Linked Trip Trip Stop Beaches Eating Walk Route Tollway Walking tour 2 Activities 6 Drinking Freeway Primary Trip Detour C Courses 3 Entertainment Secondary Tertiary Population T Tours 7 Shopping Lane Capital (National) Unsealed Road Capital z Festivals Information Plaza/Mall (State/Province) & Events 8 & Transport Steps City/Large Town Tunnel Town/Village Pedestrian Overpass Areas Walk Track/Path Beach These symbols and abbreviations give Glacier vital information for each listing: Boundaries Cemetery International (Christian) State/Province Cemetery (Other) % Telephone # Pet-friendly Park Cliff number g Forest Bus h Opening hours Hydrography Reservation f Ferry Urban Area p River/Creek Parking j Tram Intermittent River Sportsground n Nonsmoking Swamp/Mangrove d Train a Canal Transport Air-conditioning apt apartments Water Airport i Internet access Dry/Salt/ Cable Car/ d double rooms W Intermittent Lake Funicular Wi-fi access dm dorm beds s Glacier Metro station Swimming pool q quad rooms Parking v Vegetarian r rooms Highway Markers Train/Railway selection Highway marker Tram s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book tw twin rooms CONTENTS PLAN YOUR TRIP DESTINATIONS Welcome to Reykjavik .........................................74 Iceland’s Ring Road......................... 4 Around the Ring Road ................... 96 Iceland’s Ring Road Map ................................. 6 Þingvellir National Park ...........96 Iceland’s Laugarvatn ...........................97 Ring Road Highlights ...................... 8 Geysir & Gullfoss ....................97 Reykjavík City Guide ......................10 Flúðir ..................................98 Need to Know ..................................12 Hvolsvöllur & Around ...............98 Ring Road Planner ..........................14 Skógar .................................98 Outdoor Adventures Map ...............16 Vík ......................................99 Hot-Pot Hop .....................................18 Kirkjubæjarklaustur............... 100 Wildlife Watching .......................... 20 Skaftafell ........................... 101 Hali to Höfn ........................ 103 Höfn ................................. 103 ROAD TRIPS Djúpivogur .......................... 104 Egilsstaðir & Around ............. 104 The Golden Mývatn & Around ................. 106 1 Circle & the Southwest 2–3 Days .... 24 Akureyri ............................. 109 Varmahlíð ........................... 113 Southeast 2 Iceland 3–4 Days ..... 34 Hvammstangi & Around ......... 113 3 East Borgarnes & Around ............. 114 Iceland 2–3 Days ..... 44 Hvalfjörður ......................... 117 North 4 Iceland 4–5 Days ..... 52 West 5 Iceland 1–2 Days ..... 64 ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS ....118 3 Road Trips The Golden Circle 1 & the Southwest 2–3 Days A stunning region of iconic wonders, including Iceland’s historic parliament and the original geyser. (p24) Southeast Iceland 3–4 Days 2 A captivatingly vast and surreal landscape dominated by mighty Vatnajökull ice cap. (p34) East Iceland 2–3 Days 3 A quieter landscape of fishing villages, black- sand beaches, mountains and fjords. (p44) North Iceland 4–5 Days 4 An epic ride northeast across geologically spectacular landscapes packed full of highlights. (p52) West Iceland 1–2 Days 5 A compact tour through Saga country, from highland glaciers to ocean-fringed coastline near the capital. (p64) Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon (p36) KAVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK © Destinations Reykjavík (p74) Iceland’s addictive capital is where everything’s at, and has a heady blend of fresh air, stylish design, artfully hip cafes and bars, fabulous and unusual museums plus a thriving restaurant scene. The Golden Circle (p96) In striking distance of the capital, this circuit com- prises some standout natural attractions, including the world’s oldest parliament, shifting tectonic plates, the original geyser and a stunning waterfall. Akureyri (p109) Iceland’s second city packs a punch for a diminutive town and is worth getting to know. There’s a quality restaurant and art scene, and the only decent nightlife beyond Reykjavík. Reykjavík (p74) TTSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd INDEX birdwatching 21 Núpsstaður 37 A Borgarfjörður Eystri 14 Papey 47 accommodation 13, 124-6 Grímsey 61 climate 12 reservations 27 Ingólfshöfði 39 costs 13, 126, 127 Reykjavík 11, 85-7 Mývatn 59 craters, see volcanoes activities 16-17, 16-17, see Vestmannaeyjar 32 & craters also individual activities Viðey 88 credit cards 128 air travel 124 Bláfjöll 81 Culture House 75 Akureyri 56, 60-1, Blue Lagoon 87 currency 128 109-13, 110 boat tours 32, 41, 81 cycling 15 Alþingi 59 boat travel 124 Reykjavík 81, 95 animals 21, see also Borg á Mýrum 67 Kirkjubæjarklaustur 100 individual animals Borgarfjörður 67 Mývatn 108 Árbær Open Air Museum 80 Borgarfjörður Eystri 14 Arctic foxes 21, 116 Borgarfjördur Museum 114 D area codes 130 Borgarnes 66-7, 114-17, 115 dangers, see safety Arnarstapi 68 Breiðármörk Trail 102-3 Deildartunguhver 70 art galleries, see museums Breiðdalsvík 48, 50, 104 detours from Ring Road 14 & galleries Breiðdalur 50-1, 104 Dettifoss 55-6 Ásgrímur Jónsson bus travel 15 Collection 75 Diamond Circle 14 business hours 128-9 Askja 60 Dimmuborgir 58 ATMs 128 disabilities, travellers with 131 Aurora Reykjavík 79 C campervans 121 Djúpivogur 47, 104 B camping 124-5 dog sledding 56, 70, 108 car travel, see driving driving 118-23 beer 38, 62, 92 cell phones 131 car hire 15, 120-1 Berufjörður 104 churches documents 119 Berunes 47-8 Akureyrarkirkja 61 driving licence 119 bicycle travel, see cycling Hallgrímskirkja F roads 122 birds, see (Reykjavík) 71, 78 fuel 122-3 individual species Hallgrímskirkja insurance 119 (Saurbær) 68 maps 119-20 000 Map pages 135 driving (continued) Glymur 68-9 road distances 123 G Golden Circle 25-33, 96-8 road rules 122 galleries, see museums Goðafoss 59-60 safety 121-2 & galleries Grímsey 61 websites 120 Game of Thrones 30 Grundarfjörður 68 DVDs 128 gas 122-3 Gullfoss 28, 97-8 gay travellers 127 E geological dangers 129-30 H geothermal springs 19, see INDEX East Iceland 44-51, 46 Hafnarfjall 67-8 also spas Egil’s Saga 67 Háifoss 30 D-H Blue Lagoon 87 Egilsstaðir 51, 104-6, 105 hákarl 90 Borgarnes 67 Eldfell 32 Hali 41, 103 Deildartunguhver 70 Eldhraun 36 Hallgrímskirkja Gamla Laugin 29 electricity 127 (Reykjavík) 71, 78 Geysir 28 emergencies 12 Hallgrímskirkja (Saurbær) 68 Landmannalaugar 29 environmental issues 90, 130 Harpa 71, 77-8 Laugardalslaug 80 Esja 69 Heimaey 32 Laugardalur 79, 80 Eyjafjallajökull 31 Heinabergsjökull 41-2 Laugarvatn 27 Hekla 30 Mývatn Nature Baths 57 Helgafell 32 F Reykjavík 80, 81 Hellnar 68 F roads 122 safety 129-30 Hengifoss 51 farmhouse Strandir Coast 116 Herðubreið 60 accommodation 125-6 Sundhöllin 80 Herðubreiðarlindir 60 festivals & events Geysir 28, 97-8 highlands, the 29, 60 Akureyri 56, 111 Gjáin 30 highlights 8-9 Borgarnes 114 glaciers & ice caps 42, 130 hiking Höfn 103 Eyjafjallajökull 31 Reykjavík 81, 84-5 Breiðármörk Fjallsárlón 40 Trail 102-3 Fimmvörðuháls 31, 99 Fláajökull 42-3 Esja 69 Fjallabak Nature Hoffellsjökull 43 Reserve 29 Fimmvörðuháls 99 Jökulsárlón 9, 40-1, 102-3 Fjalladýrð 55 Hafnarfjall 67 Langjökull 70 Fjallsárlón 40 Hornstrandir nature Mýrdalsjökull 32 reserve 116 Fjaðrárgljúfur 36-7 safety 100, 130 Hvalfjörður 68-9 Fláajökull 42-3 Skaftafell 9, 38-9, 101-2 Laugavegurinn 29 flies 108 Snæfellsjökull 68 safety 129-30 Flúðir 28-9, 98 Sólheimajökull 32 hitchhiking 15 food 13, 90, 127 Vatnajökull 9, 38, 40 Hjálparfoss 30 fuel 122-3 walks 42 Hlíðarfjall 56 Þórsmörk 14, 29 Hljómskálagarður 75 Glaumbær 62 Hoffellsjökull 43 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Höfn 43, 103-4 000 Map pages Museum 97 Höfði 59 136 holidays 129 Ásgrímur Jónsson Hólmur 42-3 L Collection 75 Hornstrandir nature Lagarfljót 51 Aurora Reykjavík 79 reserve 116 Landeyjahöfn 32 Borgarfjördur Museum 114 hot pots, see geothermal Landmannalaugar 29 Culture House 75 springs Langjökull 70 Gljúfrasteinn Laxness hot springs, see geothermal language 132-3 Museum 97 springs Laugar Spa 80 Icelandic Phallological Hraunfossar 70 Museum 76-7 Laugardalslaug 80 INDEX Húsafell 70 Kling & Bang 79 Laugardalur 79-80 Húsavik 58 National Gallery of Laugarvatn 27-8, 97 H-O Hvalfjörður 68-9, 117 Iceland 75 Laugavegur 71, 75-8 Hvammstangi 62-3, 113-14 National Museum 70-1, 74 Laugavegurinn hike 29 Hvanneyri 67 Reykjavík Art Museum – lava fields, see also Ásmundarsafn 79 Hverir 56-7 volcanoes & craters Hvítserkur 63 Reykjavík Art Museum – Blue Lagoon 87 Hafnarhús 74-5 Hvolsvöllur 30-1, 98 Borgarnes 66 Reykjavík Art Museum – Dimmuborgir 58 Kjarvalsstaðir 78 I Hraunfossar 70 Saga Museum