247 EXPLORATION OF JULIA CREEK DISTRICT (Including searches for lost explorers) [By S. ULICK BROWNE.] (Read on March 27, 1958.) Duncan Mclntyre came out with the family from Scotland to Melbourne in 1836. Donald, five years younger, arrived in 1851, aged about nineteen. Uncle Donald Campbell, of "Glengower," a pas­ toral property near Bendigo, almost certainly advised and financially assisted the two young men, who engaged with supply of beef to the gold-diggers now arriving in their thousands and tearing the country wide open. The young Scotchmen do not seem to have been affected by any gold fever, and developed quickly to the stage of "wandering pastoralists" seeking a property. Thus we find them "with sheep, cattle and horses and a splendid outfit, intending to proceed to the Gulf of Carpentaria"; but held up south of the Queensland border by (a) the Darhng River in flood, (b) outbreak of scab in the sheep, (c) consequent prohibition of entry by the Colony of Queensland. , . This must have been 1859. Duncan then explored northward for country upon which stock could be grazed. This first journey of 2/300 miles penetrated to the Paroo River, Cooper's Creek, and into Queensland, Immediately on his return (reporting to brother Donald presumably), it was decided that he leave again for their original objective, "The Gulf of Carpentaria," So, by 1864 Duncan Mclntyre was estabhshed in the public mind as an explorer, having discovered (pre­ sumed) traces of the lost Leichhardt — two marked trees and two horses. S. E. Pearson records the trees as being "on Haddington westward from Dalgonahy," and that the horses were found on the Dugald River (named by Mclntyre) ; but nobody to-day can indicate exactly. Now, the Mclntyres, making north from Victoria, and having the same destination as the Burke and Wills Expedition in view, would keep the movements of that much-publicised cavalcade under observation; and evidence is that Duncan must have followed close on Burke's trail in making his initial trip to the Gulf, when the "L" trees and the horses were found. (Refer to the 248 account published in the "Riverina Herald" towards the end of 1864 and my notes thereon, and to Edward Palmer's book, which states that Mclntyre was on the Flinders in 1861.) We can accept Sir Fergus McMaster's conception that Burke and Wills "made straight at the Ranges" somewhere about Selwyn, while Duncan Mclntyre, "crossing Burke's track for a considerable distance," may have followed the Wills River. His outfit, com­ prising two whites, three blacks and twenty-five head of horses, could have been mistaken by the wild blacks. For, Pearson asserts among conclusions that vary, but based importantly on what the blacks told, that Burke went up the Wills and over to the Corella water­ shed. But this is obviously incorrect and includes Mclntyre; for had this happened, they would have either traversed north-easterly along the railway from Butru to Duchess, which is set in the Gate to Mount Isa on the Leichhardt River or, ascending right to the source of the Wihs, they could have got out of the hihs and towards the Barkly Tableland fairly easily (cattle are droved in numbers to Butru for trucking). Both Bourke's expedition and Duncan Mclntyre's aimed to strike the headwaters of the Albert River, Diversion to the north-eastwards was forced upon both of them by the rugged terrain; while both returned (vide Wills' Journals and the published interview with Mclntyre 1864) along the O'Hara's Gap route, which is easy travelling. So we must dismiss the possibility that Burke traversed the headwaters of the Corella River (as reasoned by Pearson in one set of his conclusions). The country about Mary Kathleen mine, near its head, is far rougher than Wihs records, Mclntyre's account of their experience through the ranges, and of the course followed, tally with the blacks' tales that "Burke crossed over to the head of the Corella." My thesis lies with McMaster: that Burke ascended east of O'Hara's Gap; then I say that Mclntyre, to the west of that feature and missing the Duchess "gate," got over the divide maybe via some "gate" that could be the route of the Ballara branch railway. The name of Dalgonally, Julia Creek, etc. It appears that "Dalgonally" is a name transposed from sand ridge country near Wanaaring on the Paroo 249 where Donald was located for a period with the stock. This is the opinion held by Mrs. Mackay and by a nephew of Donald's who was on Dalgonally. She observes that Von Mueher refers to Duncan "leaving 'Dargonelli'," and this had reference to the Paroo. Note that though there is sand ridge country close to the homestead, the main soil constituent is open downs, marine clay averaging three feet deep, which is the almost unaltered silt of a landlocked gulf, raised here about 400 feet above sea level and extending back to the Kynuna Saddle (Griffith Taylor), which parts Gulf from Diamantina waters. "Gilhot Creek" was the name given by the brothers to their initial location. One Gilhat was the superinten­ dent dismissed by Biddulph Henning, who located and took up "Lara" 1863-4 in the grand manner. One Devhn was his representative in this, and Alick's Creek was named for a valued blackboy in the expedition despatched from "Exmoor" at the headwaters of the Bowen River, where Biddulph Henning had established some few years previously (vide "The Letters of Rachel Henning" deahng with "Exmoor" run). One suggests that he had been with the Mclntyres, who named the Gilliat Channels from him (spelling it, themselves, "Gilhot"). "Eastern Creek" would be natural naming by Mclntyre of the watercourse east of the Channels first occupied, before permanent estabhshment of the station on "Mclntyre's Waterhole" where the defined channel of Juha Creek ends, approximately fifteen miles from the Cloncurry River. To-day it is the only notable natural water along that creek; but when the country was first stocked there were several, together with mudsprings and soaks (the last merely traditional when closer settle­ ment commenced in 1912), These would be escaping artesian waters, the tapping of which later resulted in sensational gushes for the primary flows (three from one and a half to two million g,p.d.). The water being contoured in bore-drains over the undulating downs and flat expanses. Julia Creek The main reason for moving eastwards from Gilliat to Juha Creek was that the latter country is better, and afforded a ready-made "buhock-paddock" in those unfenced days. Cattle, as gregarious as human beings, 250 are similarly attracted by far horizons. In the heat of summer and eating dry feed, they grow restless observ­ ing majestic-looking thunderstorms breaking afar off, especially if thereby some line of timber on the skyline is made to look inviting. The promise of cool shades, of water and green feed. Juha Creek's coohbah-fringed watercourse is well isolated from similar features; Eastern Creek to the west, Alick's to the east; and especially defended by treeless Downs without any natural water a month after rain, over the "Kynuna Saddle" on Quambetook. If they reached the Diaman­ tina channels, cattle could have wandered right through to Cooper's Creek, The homestead at Mclntyre's Water- hole defended against tendencies to make off for the Flinders or Cloncurry river-system. The permanent location of Dalgonahy was made after Duncan's death in 1866, and prior to that was on "The Grave Hole," situate right out on a wide flood plain (one bank, as I understand, being above flood level, as is common with such locations). The straggling coolibahs and guttapercha denote periodic severe flood- ings; indeed a tragic spot of isolation! I account for such a site being chosen because it would be a spot where cattle running up the channels could not make to the Cloncurry River timber unobserved. The site is nine miles north-west of the station and about four miles from the river. The Naming S, E. Pearson (letter November 14, 1944) observes: "In the early stages of pastoral occupation in your dis­ trict, the watercourse now known as Julia Creek was 'Scorpion Creek,' It was so known up till about 1870, when the first Government Surveyor, Maurice O'Con­ neh, came out to fix run boundaries. The name Scorpion was objected to by the surveyor as it was a prejudicial sort of name, , , , It was at the suggestion of Donald Mclntyre, I understand, that the name was altered to 'Julia Creek'—a niece and aunt being 'Julias' (Camp­ bells)," (From diaries of Ernest Henry's in his pos­ session). Yarns that Dalgonally "comprised most of the Gulf at one stage" can be discounted definitely, with others of "On Our Selection" flavour. The very types who derided this man—who maintained possessive solvency from 1866 to 1912, when the station was sold to Scot­ tish and Australian Land Co,—after his death were 251 those inflating other aspects of his legendary being beyond belief. Dalgonally, at maximum, comprised 960^ square miles (614,720 acres). Following on acquisition of the first block named "Dalgonahy" in 1864, comprising 25 square miles, others named "Glengower," "Bendigo," "lona" and "Darn Downs," etc, were added. The official taking-up of country in those days was subject to stringent conditions indeed. The Queensland Land Act of 1860 (vide Christison of Lammermoor, p. 52) provided for the issue of an Occupation Licence for a run of 100 square miles, and that, within nine months the occupier may apply for a fourteen-year lease, con­ ditionally upon having stocked to one quarter of the assumed carrying capacity of 100 sheep or 20 head of cattle to the square mile.