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X-Ray Mag Issue #51 | Nov 2012

X-Ray Mag Issue #51 | Nov 2012

BritishText and photos by Barb Roy ColumbiaCritter Connection

84 X-RAY MAG : 51 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature BC Critters

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Diver shooting video of luscious, coral-covered reef, ; BC ferry passes Snake Island, ; Diver with yellow fins kayaking in

British Columbia (BC), is known for having some of the Bordering Mainland and the Coastal most colourful temperate water Mountain Range, Howe diving in the world. This holds Sound is a deep fiord fed by true for excellent critter sight- cool upwelling nutrient-rich ings as well, found throughout water. Like most locations along the coast, seasons are the varied coastal regions. mild, the wildlife plentiful and Underwater photographers diving can be done year often enjoy the challenge of round. For those needing to photographing the illusive giant wet their appetite for outdoor adventure, Howe Sound is a Pacific octopus or getting all great place to start. wrapped up with a friendly Shore diving can be done two-meter-long wolf eel! For at Whytecliff Park and Porteau Cove where divers might find the visiting extended-range wolf eels, octopus, huge cab- technical divers, the natural ezon and lingcod. Orange shipwrecks and deep walls are and white swimming anemo- usually covered in a swathe of nes, small crabs, hydroids and frosted nudibranchs are intriguing marine critters. also plentiful. Porteau Cove has several small boats in the To get a better understanding of what park, scuttled to enhance the BC has to offer, let’s take a closer look terrain. some marked with mooring buoys at each region. Keep in mind however; For half and full day boat charters, to designate the dive sites. Below most of the underwater life you will dive boats meet groups at Sewell’s the emerald water, divers might find encounter can also be found at mul- Marina in Horseshoe Bay. Howe Sound orange sea pens, small sculpins and tiple locations. is full of pinnacles, islands and islets, brittle stars at the Bird Islet site. Cowan

85 X-RAY MAG : 51 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Large yellow- eye rockfish, feature Nanaimo BC Critters Because of the depth and relatively mild currents, is a favourite among technical divers. Personally, I find the increased size of the gorgonians impressive and always try to bring along a Trimix system when visiting this area, just for the gorgonians! Skookumchuck Rapids is another breathtaking dive with a multi-coloured collection of white, orange, green and pink anemones. Clusters of orange and purple ochre sea stars plaster themselves on large boulders scat- tered about the terrain in the shallows. In deeper water, the entire ocean floor is covered in red, green, yellow Point is good for zoanthid anemones, high as a diver. Watch for small orange and orange anemones and sponges. hairy-spined crabs and beautiful red sharp-nose crabs and rockfish hiding Although diving is done at slack (when crimson anemones. Under any of the within the cloud sponge openings. At the water stops to change direction) mooring buoys you can usually see rock- this site, I have photographed many current in the Skook (as locals call it) fish, wolf-eels and the occasional Puget different small crabs, orange peel nudi- can reach up to an impressive 30km per Sound king crab. The 366-foot (111-me- branchs, juvenile yellow-eye rockfish, hour! ter) retired Canadian Navy ship HMCS sea cucumbers, cup corals, abalone The wreck of the HMCS Chaudiere, Annapolis is the latest addition to BC’s and so much more. scuttled in 1992 by the Artificial Reef collection of artificial reefs, scuttled in October of 2012. Lower Sunshine Coast (/Egmont) Getting to the Sunshine Coast requires a ferry ride across Howe Sound from Departure Bay to Langdale. (See www. bcferries.com). After a short drive to Sechelt and then to Egmont, divers wanting a weekend getaway can meet a dive operator here for an excellent selection of advanced dives. Beneath the Power Lines, in Agamemnon Channel, is a deep wall full of life start- ing upon descent. Immense clusters of yellow and white cloud sponges are dispersed all along the wall, as it gently cascades to depths beyond 200ft (61m). Around 90ft (27m), huge red gorgonian sea fans majestically stand as Diver (above) at Dodd Narrows, Nanaimo; Diver inspects one of the many artificial reefs of BC (right)

86 X-RAY MAG : 51 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Dodd Narrows, feature Nanaimo BC Critters is located at the old mill in Powell River, along a breakwater of ghost ships. The shallow wreckage of the Malahat’s remnants is scattered about the bottom but chocked full of large and small fish. Entry is done from shore on a sandy beach next to the breakwater. The wreck can be found by skirt- ing around the large boulders and heading straight out from shore, moving towards the mill in about 30-80ft (9-24m) of water. For a unique boat dive, all div- ers usually enjoy the site of the MV

inhabiting the side of the vessel hull. The This easy shore-entry dive is suit- forward gun barrels, pointing straight down, able for all skill levels, complete now host a small growth of yellow cloud with a wheelchair ramp and a sponge about midway down. place to unload gear. High tide usually brings in clear water for Upper Sunshine Coast viewing the mermaid, created (Powel River/Lund) by Simon Morris before being After another ferry ride from Earl’s Cove placed at 60ft (20m). Be sure to Saltery Bay across Jervis Inlet, you will to check out the statue’s base find the friendly community of Powell River. for a resident octopus. Not far Near Saltery Bay is Mermaid Cove where from the mermaid is the wooden a three-meter-high bronze mermaid wel- hull of a small boat, where small comes all underwater. Campsites, wash- gobies and lingcod like to hang room facilities and changing rooms are out. Next to the wreck is the available in the park. start of a wall with very large boot sponges. Again, watch for rockfish peering out the sponge openings. Just up the road is a place called Octopus Hole, another easy shore dive, where small octopus hide in rocky dens. The terrain is favourable to crabs, which are always on the cephalopod’s menu. Orange Society of sometimes yielding up to 100ft and brown burrowing sea (ARSBC), lies on its port side in (30m)! The wreck wears a cloak cucumbers, swimming nudi- 60-145ft (20-44m) of water in of glass tunicates on the railing branchs and tiny sculpins call this . Visibility is best and deck structures with white place home. between September and April, and orange plumose anemones Another interesting shore dive Tiger rockfish, Union Bay Lingcod (above); Diver (far left) at Saskatchewan, Nanaimo

87 X-RAY MAG : 51 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature BC Critters

Giant Pacific octopus, Rock of Life, (above)

anemones can be found here. mingled with the sounds of eagles fish- This is one of those dives where ing for their breakfast of salmon is well technical divers can explore the worth the experience. deep wreck, and the naturalists A favourite wreck is the Transpac, can check out the island’s multi- sitting vertically against a wall with tude of critters in the shallows. its bow in 90ft (27m) and the stern at 285ft (87m). Even though visibility can Northern Coastal be 60-100ft (18-30m) here, lights and British Columbia extended-range gear are advisable. (Beyond Port Hardy) Upon ascent, however, there is a nice Liveaboard dive vessels are your wall to the right, which offers a mul- best bet for exploring BC’s vast titude of invertebrate life. On one of coastal waterways, departing my favorite dives here, we were lucky from Port Hardy or Prince Rupert. enough to spot a very young, pink Wreck diving is one of the main Alaskan king crab. activities for divers in this area, On the wrecks of the Ohio, James but the sites are almost always Drummond and the Drumrock, I pho- covered with so much life, it’s tographed giant clusters of yellow and Gulfstream, sinking in 1947 at Dinner hard to tell they actually sailed on the white cloud sponge, tall white plumose Rock. This advanced wreck dive is in ocean above. anemones, bright orange yelloweye 125-155ft (38-47m) of water. Although The charm of seclusion is another rockfish, lingcod in shades of blue and the island’s wall is steep, a host of reason why divers venture this far north. grey and numerous anemones of all abalone, lingcod, rockfish, cup corrals Waking up in a tranquil calm cove with sizes. and huge white and orange plumose a humpback whale surfacing nearby Diver (above) at Seven Tree, Port Hardy; Diver and affectionate wolf eel, Port Hardy (left)

88 X-RAY MAG : 51 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature BC Critters The wreck of the Themis is over 100 years old providing home to box crabs, sponges and wolf eels, around Crocker Rock. Seven Tree, Dillon Rock, Nakwakto Rapids and Hunt Rock are all worth the journey to find wolf eels, octopus, and red-lipped gooseneck barna- cles (at Nakwakto). Central (Campbell River/Hornby Island) Heading south from Port Hardy is the town of Campbell River. The body of water between the town and Quadra Island is called , con- taining several first-rate boat and shore dives. The wreck of the Columbia and the May Island ferry always seem to have perch, rockfish, lingcod, and painted greenlings on them. Giant purple tubeworms grow to an impressive size Northern A thick forest of kelp wraps include Barry Islet for small at the Copper Cliff dive site. Vancouver Island around many of the islands pink and white gorgonian Tubeworms can also be found Most dive operators pick up where huge black rockfish sea fans, many with miniature on the Columbia. Whiskey their groups in Port Hardy or float suspended beneath the basket stars clinging to them. Point has a seemingly endless Port McNeil for multi-day and canopy. I am always in awe week-long excursions. One of looking up to the surface from the most popular sites in the depth. In the shallows around area is Browning Wall, stretch- the reefs, look for thousands of ing from the surface down to small, colorful brooding anemo- over 250ft. This almost vertical nes residing on the strands of wall is crowded with pink and kelp where they attach to the white soft corals, long tan finger rocks. Many will have tiny buds sponges, nudibranchs, moss- on them to promote the next head and decorated warbon- generation. nets, along with beautiful red For those with a good photo Irish lords. eye, look close on soft coral Watch for small to medium branches for tiny yellow sea spi- size octopus out hunting on the ders. Large numbers will some- wall. With so much life at this times cover the entire branch. Rainbow shrimp, Port Hardy (above); View from the Swell, Port Hardy (top left) site, it’s hard to focus on just The reason for this unusual sym- one thing, but try to look down biosis is still unknown to biolo- carpet of strawberry anemones, current-dependant sites, yielding the wall and behind you for the gists, but some believe the spi- sponges, large crabs, and gener- additional kelp greenlings, nudi- hovering rockfish. Quite often ders are feeding on the polyps. ally, a resident wolf eel. Marine life branchs, brittle stars, juvenile crabs the abundance is astounding. Other excellent boat dives seems to be plentiful at all of the and trumpet sponge. On one of The Swell liveaboard boat in northern BC

89 X-RAY MAG : 51 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Harbor lions (left) are found all over BC; Location of British Columbia on world map BC Critters (right) and satelitte map of feature BC; Basket star on soft coral (inset lower left)

rock scallops and barnacles. Rose stars, octopuses, extra large paint- ed anemones, sea cucumbers and orange sea pens also flourish. Nootka Sound is accessible from Campbell River by heading west to Gold River then down a logging road to the township of . When not diving, kayaking, fishing and hiking are all popular. Barkley Sound is home to excel- lent reefs, pinnacles, wrecks, current-swept sites and the Islands. On the outer edge of the Sound, debris from the Vanlene shipwreck is scattered in both shallow and deep water, hosting a selection of nudibranchs, bryozoans, crabs, rockfish, anemones, abalone and on cloudy days. There was once Nanaimo Area beginning to exhilarating! more. a time when sixgill sharks were There are two ferry terminals collapse, so At one of the many other boat There are several other sites sighted regularly at Hornby Island, in Nanaimo from mainland divers should diving sites around Hornby, you where a sixgill shark might be in Nootka Sound and in Barkley Vancouver, making this an easy always remain might encounter octopuses, wolf sighted between July and Sound. Now, they are only ran- place to spend a day or week- on the outer eels, tiger rockfish or see anemo- September, so keep your eyes domly seen. end. Snake Island is a short boat parts of the ship. nes, sea pens or herring eggs open. When photographing these Barkley Sound is north of ride from Departure Bay where This is a great covering everything in the spring. large, slow-moving sharks, be Nanaimo and south of , divers can find grunt sculpins, wolf rockfish loca- One of my favorite dives near patient and plan to go deep if with access from . eels, harbor seals and a waterfall tion with older, Union Bay yielded more than a needed. Some of my best shots Another way in is down a gravel of white anemones on the north- large residents dozen wolf eels, each accompa- have been around 90ft (27m) logging road to . ern side of the island. and beauti- nied by large orange and black On the other side of Snake ful thick cloud tiger rockfish. Very cool indeed. Island, two more ships were sponge masses. scuttled by the ARSBC—the Quillback, cop- West Coast of HMCS Saskatchewan and the my dives at the Columbia, I pho- per and black rockfish can also Vancouver Island HMCS Cape Breton. Resembling tographed two huge octopuses be found here. Most of the wreck (Nootka Sound/Barkley Sound) a fish nursery, hundreds of small on the bottom, next to the ship. is covered with white plumose When exploring Nootka Sound, fish hatch here every spring. The The Capilano wreck and anemones of all sizes giving it an don’t forget your camera or Saskatchewan‘s upper structure Mitlenatch Island are two eerie appearance. video because the colours are is covered with white anemones more critter-rich dive loca- A fun seasonal dive is done not only vivid, they are spectacu- giving it a textured appearance tions accessed from Campbell with sea lions around Hornby lar. Mozino Point is within minutes when looking up from the deck at River, Powell River or Courtenay. Island between November and of Tahsis where red gorgonian sea 60ft (18m). It’s not uncommon to Immense sea lions and fat harbor April. Divers sit on the bottom in fans, yellow cloud sponges and see immense lingcod resting on seals like to lounge on the beach- about 20ft (6m) next to a small Puget Sound king crabs can all the deck or look inside a hatch es at Mitlenach. island and wait for dozens of be found on one dive. and see a yellow cloud sponge The 120-foot (36-meter) SS friendly, curious sea lions to come At another site not far away, beginning to grow. Be sure to ask Capilano sits upright in 145ft (44m) over and play. Be sure to keep red strawberry anemones and the dive charter operator where of water. The hull and prop may your hands close to your body, yellow zoanthids carpet the to find the huge resident rockfish look intact, but the structure is because their play can be quite ocean floor, even covering giant Ron Akeson fish, because it’s bright orange Sixgill shark

90 X-RAY MAG : 51 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO feature BC Critters CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEEFT: Anemones at Dodd Narrows; Lingcod at Campbell River; Red- lipped gooseneck barnacles; Mosshead warbonnet; Frosted nudibranch, Dirona albolineata

Afterthoughts No matter where you begin your dive holi- day, BC will provide a fun relaxing experi- nes, encrusting Victoria Area ence for the whole family. During peak sponges and Located at the southern end of summer months book your ferry travel kelp cling to the Vancouver Island, Victoria’s strong (www.bcferries.com) and activities early. hull. nutrient-rich currents support an assort- Dive charter and store contacts can be ment of large and small marine residents. found at www.diveindustrybc.com. Gear Sidney and Race Rocks is a breathtaking boat dive is available for hire in most communities. located about three nautical miles from Keep in mind, most of the dive operators Near Sidney Pedder Bay in the . do not allow spearfishing or taking any- the HMCS Here, tons of life reside, much like in thing from the ocean habitat except for Mackenzie, the the north. Pink and white clusters of soft photos. ■ wreck of the 190-foot (58-meter) long GB Church and Arbutus Island are all coral, finger sponge and colorful nudi- duel paddle-wheel steamer Del Norte, close easy boat dives. However, at times branchs share an underwater rocky ter- sinking in 1868. Not much of the wreck the Mackenzie can have current on it, rain with lavender coralline algae and remains except the ship’s two paddle- so be prepared. Huge clusters of cloud overlapping leaves of ground-covering wheel bases with protruding spokes and sponges are located in the calm waters kelp. a couple of boiler stacks. Chunks of coal of Saanich Inlet along with Puget Sound Victoria is also known for its wonderful are everywhere. king crabs, plumose anemones, nudi- bottle and shore dives, including Ogden Another easy dive is the 737 jet air- branchs and scallops. Saanich Inlet also Point breakwater where octopus and frame body near the town of . has several shore diving sites and great wolf eels are often seen. Several reef The plane sits on a stand in 90ft (27m) kayaking opportunities. balls have been placed along the con- of water with the main body at 70ft Graham’s Wall is a great current-de- crete wall, attracting even more critters. appearance will be worth the trip! (21m). Currently over 100 marine life spe- pendant site in near Domville For an exciting adrenalin dive, cies have been identified at the site by Island, stretching Nanaimo has two drift dives—Dodd author and biologist, Andy Lamb. Andy down to 90ft (27m). Narrows and Gabriola Pass. If currents and his wife run Cedar Beach Lodge on Close-up and permit, divers will be treated to a magic Thetis Island, catering to divers. macro photogra- carpet ride over a terrain of anemones, Porlier Pass, located between Valdes phy is awesome sea stars and giant barnacles. Both sites and Galiano Islands are home to wolf here, with plenty remind me of public aquarium habitats, eels, basket stars, huge lingcod, cabezon of nudibranchs, complete with swaying kelp fronds. and rockfish. There are several wall div- blood stars, white ing sites and the wreck of the Point Grey. tunicates, orange Chemainus and Porlier Pass Sinking at Virago Rock, the Point Grey social tunicates, Porlier Pass, and is a 32-meter-long steel tugboat sitting cup corals, decora- offer divers something upside down in 10-15m of water. Fish love tor crabs, scallops different at each location. One of my to hide in the structure and will peer out and lacy bryozoan. favorites was a dive on the historical at passing divers. Colonies of anemo-

91 X-RAY MAG : 51 : 2012 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO

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