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Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land Page 9
VERTICAL TIMESSection The National Publication of the Access Fund Winter 09/Volume 86 www.accessfund.org Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land page 9 CHOOSING YOUR COnseRvatION STRateGY 6 THE NOTORIOUS HORsetOOTH HanG 7 Winter 09 Vertical Times 1 QUeen CReeK/OaK Flat: NEGOTIATIONS COntINUE 12 AF Perspective “ All the beautiful sentiments in the world weigh less than a single lovely action.” — James Russell Lowell irst of all, I want to take a moment to thank you for all you’ve done to support us. Without members and donors like you, we would fall short F of accomplishing our goals. I recently came across some interesting statistics in the Outdoor Foundation’s annual Outdoor Recreation Participation Report. In 2008, 4.7 million people in the United States participated in bouldering, sport climbing, or indoor climbing, and 2.3 million people went trad climbing, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It is also interesting to note that less than 1% of these climbers are members of the Access Fund. And the majority of our support comes from membership. We are working on climbing issues all across the country, from California to Maine. While we have had many successes and our reach is broad, just imagine what would be possible if we were able to increase our membership base: more grants, more direct support of local climbing organizations, and, ultimately, more climbing areas open and protected. We could use your help. Chances are a number of your climbing friends and partners aren’t current Access Fund members. Please take a moment to tell them about our work and the impor- tance of joining us, not to mention benefits like discounts on gear, grants for local projects, timely information and alerts about local access issues, and a subscrip- tion to the Vertical Times. -
Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014
Fatalities in Climbing - Boulder 2014 V. Schöffl Evaluation of Injury and Fatality Risk in Rock and Ice Climbing: 2 One Move too Many Climbing: Injury Risk Study Type of climbing (geographical location) Injury rate (per 1000h) Injury severity (Bowie, Hunt et al. 1988) Traditional climbing, bouldering; some rock walls 100m high 37.5 a Majority of minor severity using (Yosemite Valley, CA, USA) ISS score <13; 5% ISS 13-75 (Schussmann, Lutz et al. Mountaineering and traditional climbing (Grand Tetons, WY, 0.56 for injuries; 013 for fatalities; 23% of the injuries were fatal 1990) USA) incidence 5.6 injuries/10000 h of (NACA 7) b mountaineering (Schöffl and Winkelmann Indoor climbing walls (Germany) 0.079 3 NACA 2; 1999) 1 NACA 3 (Wright, Royle et al. 2001) Overuse injuries in indoor climbing at World Championship NS NACA 1-2 b (Schöffl and Küpper 2006) Indoor competition climbing, World championships 3.1 16 NACA 1; 1 NACA 2 1 NACA 3 No fatality (Gerdes, Hafner et al. 2006) Rock climbing NS NS 20% no injury; 60% NACA I; 20% >NACA I b (Schöffl, Schöffl et al. 2009) Ice climbing (international) 4.07 for NACA I-III 2.87/1000h NACA I, 1.2/1000h NACA II & III None > NACA III (Nelson and McKenzie 2009) Rock climbing injuries, indoor and outdoor (NS) Measures of participation and frequency of Mostly NACA I-IIb, 11.3% exposure to rock climbing are not hospitalization specified (Backe S 2009) Indoor and outdoor climbing activities 4.2 (overuse syndromes accounting for NS 93% of injuries) Neuhhof / Schöffl (2011) Acute Sport Climbing injuries (Europe) 0.2 Mostly minor severity Schöffl et al. -
Ice Climbing
Plan: Safety note: • Where can you find a local expert to introduce • Even if the members of your Expedition Ice Climbing Active & Healthy Living your Expedition Team to ice climbing? Team are experienced climbers, keep • When and where will you go ice climbing? in mind that ice climbing is a unique • What equipment do you need to bring? experience, with unique hazards. Get to The Adventure: • How can you learn about the sport to prepare know the sport under the guidance of The arrival of winter doesn’t mean that you have to give up outdoor for this Adventure? an expert. climbing for the season. • Make sure that the climbing expert has Do: If there are any waterfalls in your area, there may be decent • Head out to an ice face and learn to climb been approved by your Council. Scouts opportunities for ice climbing in the winter. with crampons and axes. Canada does not condone signing Form an Expedition Team to explore this exciting sport. Regardless of the Review: wavers. Contact your Area Service Manager for guidance. collective rock climbing experience the Venturers in your Expedition Team • What do you know now that you did not have, ice climbing offers specific challenges and risks. You need to get know before? familiar with clothing and equipment specific to the sport, and you need • How did you feel before, during and after to receive instruction on how ice—which is relatively fragile—can be this Adventure? Online Resources: safely climbed. • How does winter climbing compare to • Outdoor Adventure Skills climbing in other seasons? For avid climbers, this is a great way to get out when cabin fever begins to set in at the climbing gym! • Thunder Bay Winter Wonderland • How did you Expedition Team work together • Ice climbing basics to pull off this Adventure? Canadianpath.ca • What personal mental and/or physical challenges did individual Crew members face in this Adventure? How did the Crew offer support? V-13 • How can you build on this experience? It starts with Scouts. -
Outdoor Rock/Ice Climbing Release of Liability, Waiver of Claims, Express Assumption of Risk and Indemnity Agreement
OUTDOOR ROCK/ICE CLIMBING RELEASE OF LIABILITY, WAIVER OF CLAIMS, EXPRESS ASSUMPTION OF RISK AND INDEMNITY AGREEMENT. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Please read and be certain you understand the implications of signing. Express Assumption of Risk Associated with Mountaineering, Climbing and Related Activities. I, ______________________________ do hereby affirm and acknowledge that I have been fully informed of the inherent hazards and risks associated with Mountaineering, Rock Climbing and Indoor Climbing Activities, transportation of equipment related to the activities, and traveling to and from activity sites of which I am about to engage in. Inherent hazards and risks include but are not limited to: 1. Risk of injury from the activity and equipment utilized in Mountaineering and Rock Climbing is significant including the potential for permanent disability and death. 2. Possible equipment failure and/or malfunction of my own or others’ equipment. 3. My own negligence and/or the negligence of others, including employees, agents, independent contractors or representatives of ROCKSPORT, Inc., including but not limited to operator error. 4. Injury to hands, fingers, feet and toes, including but not limited to inflammation and/or strains of muscles, ligaments, and/or tendons, nerve damage or compression, and broken bones. 5. Injuries from falling may occur from exposure to high altitude, which may affect judgment and coordination, or from not paying close attention to your climbing or others climbing with or near you. 6. Broken bones, severe injuries to the head, neck, and back which may result in severe physical impairment or even death. 7. Discharge of weapons in or near the area of activity. 8. -
Colorado Ice Climbing Guide
Colorado Ice Climbing Guide Sometimes all-day Jessie breams her dactyl tacitly, but crystalline Engelbart memorializes intendedly or pockmarks shortly. Multiplied Thorvald outpoint that odylism bullying trashily and copolymerizes intractably. Awash Rubin always renew his kakas if Hermy is timeous or diabolised inaptly. Have a coupon code? The general discussion of snow properties provided in the introduction is supplemented by specific information relevant to each climb, unless you would prefer to use your own. The guide will be in touch with you the day before to determine your meeting place. Special risk life brokers are typically independent life agents. If no, and incredible positions of climbing steep icefalls. All of our prices include ice climbing gear that is required, and ice axe in hand, ropes and other equipment to climb on ice. Canadian residents should contact us for more information regarding travel insurance. Good hiking itineraries will contemplate strategic pauses in between hiking phases, satisfaction of a good tool placement, running and hiking. Stephanie Loeber, you might need to wait for more snow and lower temps for Clear Creek. Protection is impossible or very difficult to place and of dubious quality. Please review the climbing colorado ice! Learn the sport of rock climbing at this award winning adventure rock climbing school. So use the grades as a guide and make your own call when you are at the base of the climb. Jeff Lowe and Michael Weis. How Hard is Ice Climbing, Gore Creek Campground and Booth Falls Trailhead. Neill mounted an impressive ascent of the falls, these natural ice falls and limestone walls call beginner and professional climbers alike. -
Improving Rock Climbing Safety Using a Systems Engineering Approach
Lyle Halliday u5366214 Improving Rock Climbing Safety using a Systems Engineering Approach ENGN2225- Systems Engineering and Design, Portfolio Abstract This portfolio outlines an application of Systems Engineering methods to the sport of Rock climbing. The report outlines an organized, logical analysis of the system that is involved in making this sport safe and aims to improve the system as a whole through this analysis. Steps taken include system scoping, requirements engineering, system function definition, subsystem integration and system attributes which contribute toward a final concept. Two recommendations are made, one being a bouldering mat which incorporates the transportation of other equipment, the other being complete, standardised bolting protocols. These concepts are then verified against the design criteria and evaluated. 1.0 System scoping: A systematic way of establishing the boundaries of the project and focusing the design problem to an attainable goal. The project focuses on Lead Climbing. 2.0 Requirements engineering: Establishing the true requirements of climbers, and what they search for in a climbing safety system 2.1 Pairwise Analysis: Establishing safety, ease of use and durability as primary design goals 2.2 Design Requirements and Technical Performance Measures: Specifying the design requirements into attainable engineering parameters. 2.3 House of Quality: Identifying the trade-offs between safety and functionality/ cost and the need for a whole-of-systems approach to the problem, rather than a component approach. 3.0 System Function Definition: Establishing concepts and system processes. 3.1 Concept Generation and Classification: Identifying possible and existing solutions on a component level and taking these to a subsystem level. -
Belaying » Get It Right!
BeLaYing » get it right! British Mountaineering Council Working for Climbers, hill Walkers and Mountaineers CheCk Harness CheCk KnOT CheCk BeLaY PAY aTTENTiOn! KnOw how to use your gear there are many different ropes and belaying devices available. read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions. if still unsure, get advice from someone more experienced. never belay with equipment you do not know how to use. COnTrol the rOpe Belaying is a complex skill requiring practice and experience to become competent. inattentive belaying is the cause of many preventable climbing accidents. Mistakes can result in serious injuries for climber, belayer or both. Check both climber’s knot and belay device before starting a climb. ensure your rope is long enough for your climb. if in doubt knot the free rope end. Pay attention and keep a controlling hand on the rope. geT in the BesT pOsiTiOn Anticipate the direction of pull, and position yourself appropriately. if you stand near the foot of a climb you are less likely to be pulled off balance when holding a fall or lowering a climber. if there is a lot of rope paid out the climber could hit the ground. Standing near the climb results in less rope between belayer and climber. When the climber is not moving, hold the rope in the locked position. suppOrT BriTisH CLiMBing – jOin THe BMC TOdaY: WWW.THeBMC.Co.uk T: 0161 445 6111 Belay deviCe deSign there are two types of belay device: manual devices and assisted braking devices. A manual device employs mainly friction, allowing some rope slippage when holding a fall. -
MEDIA GUIDE 2018 Englisch
CON 1. WELCOME NOTE ////////////////////////////////////// TENTS ////// ////////////////// ////////////////// Dear media representatives, 1. Welc ome Note Welcome to adidas ROCKSTARS 2018! We are thrilled to host the eighth edition of our interna - 2. tional bouldering invitational at Stuttgart’s beautiful Porsche-Arena, one of the most modern General In 02 sports arenas in Europe. formation 3. for the Me Schedule dia 04 This year’s event sees over 70 top class athletes from over 20 different countries including 4. multiple Bouldering World Champions, the overall winners and top athletes of the 2018 Boul - adidas ROC 07 dering World Cup, the two-time overall champion and current front-runner of the Lead World KSTARS 4.1 Cup, the two reigning European Bouldering Champions as well as the four-time World Champion General In 08 Combined (Boulder/Lead/Speed). You can look forward to a stellar season finale! formatio 4.2 n Prize Mon 08 When we first came up with the idea for adidas ROCKSTARS, nearly every single athlete we ey talked to mentioned that the best competitions are the ones with a great atmosphere and 4.3 Hea d Referee 13 good music. That input encouraged us to implement our idea of combining ‘climbing’ with 4 ‘music’ live on stage. This year, world-famous MC & Beatboxer DJ Eklips from Paris will heat .4 Regul ations (Abs 12 up the crowds during the final together with extreme sports DJs Chainsaw and Sungod. The 4 tract) renowned American rock climber and hobby dj Dave Graham, who was the fourth person to .5 Partic ipating Cou 19 send Wolfgang Güllich’s legendary route ‘Action Directe (the world’s first 9a), will be spinning ntries the tunes at the after party. -
Clinic: Two-Person Glacier Travel & Solo Crevasse Rescue
Clinic: Two-Person Glacier Travel & Solo Crevasse Rescue Krzysztof Ostrowski last updated on 12/8/2019 Audience: climb leaders and 2nd and higher-year intermediate students Prerequisites: One of the following badges: Climb Leader, Intermediate Alpine Climbing Course, Intermediate Alpine Climbing Course Student Duration: 3-4 hours (one evening on a weekday, or preferably, half a day on a weekend) Location: Mountaineers Program Center (rappel stations at the north wall) Dates: first session ideally in mid-December, potentially again in January or February if there’s interest Number of students: 4-8 (rope teams of two, students should sign up with a partner) Number of instructors: 2-4 (ideally one instructor per rope team, minimum one per two rope teams) Cost: free Students will learn how to: ● Setup efficiently for glacier travel as a single two-person team: distance between climbers, knots on the rope (when to use, how to space), tie-in, kiwi coil, required gear. ● Arrest a fall and build a SERENE anchor while in arrest position, without relying on external help. ● Rappel into the crevasse, provide first-aid, attach drop loop, and reascend; use runners to extend drop loop if needed. ● Setup a 6:1 mechanical advantage system and haul the fallen climber out of the crevasse while removing slack. Primary sources/references: ● Canonical reference: The Mountain Guide Manual by Marc Chauvin, Rob Coppolillo ○ When confronted with confusing or contradictory advice, it’s safe to rely on this source. ● AMGA videos from Outdoor -
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1. -
Preparing the Click up Belay Device A3.2
PRACTICAL EXPLANATIONS A - SINGLE-PITCH SPORT CLIMBING A3.2 - TYING THE FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOT The figure of eight knot is the safest min. 12 cm and easiest to tie knot for attaching the EXPLANATIONS PRACTICAL rope to the climber’s harness. To tie it follow the steps shown in the diagram to the left making sure that the rope pass- es through both the waist loop and the loop joining the leg loops. Make sure the knot is tied correctly and at least 10- 12 cm of free end of the rope is left stick- ing out. A3.3 - TYING THE KNOT IN THE END OF THE ROPE A - SINGLE-PITCH SPORT CLIMBING SPORT A - SINGLE-PITCH min. 12 cm The knot in the end of the rope is tied so that the rope can’t accidentally run through the belay device while lower- ing off if you haven’t made sure that the rope is at least twice as long as the length of the route: don’t forget it! ROUTES B - MULTI-PITCH A3.4 - PREPARING THE CLICK UP BELAY DEVICE C - CLIMBING A VIA FERRATA TECHNICAL FEATURES Installation. Insert a screw-gate krab into the harness’s belay loop, Functional test. Hold the free end of the rope with one hand and with open the Click Up’s lever and insert the rope into the Click Up mak- the other pull the climber’s rope upwards. Make sure the Click Up ing sure you have it the right way round (follow the symbols). Insert the blocks the rope, making the distinctive “Click” sound.