Issue 100 FREEFREEFREEApril - May 2017

please take one the Oxford Drinker

the Oxford The free newsletter of the Drinker Oxford and White Horse TH Branches of CAMRA 100

www.oxford.camra.org.uk ISSUE! April 2017 www.whitehorsecamra.org.uk April - May 2017 100

2 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017 Contents Welcome Awards Night 5 Guess what? It’s our 25 Some photos from our 100th issue! recent Gala night Thame Tour Community Spirit 6 A guide to the pubs of 26 Graham Shelton loves Thame CAMRA!

The OxfordOxford Drinker is the newsletter Tony’s Travels Brewery News of the Oxford and White Horse 10 Tony visits Oxford’s 28 All the latest from round branches of CAMRA, the Campaign Wetherspoons pubs the region for Real Ale.

5000 copies are distributed free of Brewery Focus charge to pubs across the two 32 This month featuring branches’ area, including Oxford, White Horse Brewery Abingdon, Witney, Faringdon, Eynsham, Kidlington, Bampton, Wheatley and Wantage and most of the villages in between.

PDF downloads of past issues are available at the Oxford CAMRA webiste, wwww.oxford.camra.org.ukww.oxford.camra.org.uk.

Editorial team: Pub News Editor: Dave Richardson 12 [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk Including changes on the Abingdon Road Advertising: Tony Goulding Pub walks [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk 34 Dick Bosley avoids taking Tony: 07588 181313 Festival Diary 14 A guide to the upcoming the bus Layout/Design: Matt Bullock beer festivals Valuable contributions have been White Horse received for this issue from Richard Gardener’s World 35 News from the White Queralt, Paul Silcock, Dick Bosley, Horse Branch Matt Bullock, Ian Winfield, Dennis 15 Paul Silcock gives a Brown, Tony Goulding, Pete Flynn, publican’s view Paul Sherwin, Chris Dicks, Gareth Beer Week Green and Graham Shelton. Drinker centenary 37 Oxford Beer Week launched Please send contributions to the 17 Celebrating our 100 editor at the above email address. issues with a look back Branch Diary Pub news can be sent to 37 [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk What’s On, including date for Oxford’s AGM The views expressed in this publication are those of the individual contributors and not necessarily Pete’s Pubs those of Oxford or White Horse 39 Pete takes a trip round Branches of CAMRA, or of CAMRA the pubs of Cowley Road Limited.

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© Copyright Oxford CAMRA 2017

the Oxford Drinker 3 April - May 2017 100

4 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017 Welcome ….. To our 100th issue THE OXFORD DRINKER celebrates and demand for new housing. Another unchanging aspect is its centenary in this edition, with the crucial role of the pub extra pages put together by its The latest threat to pubs is a landlord or landlady, in holding first editor, Matt Bullock, looking hike in business rates of up to everything together despite the at how it has evolved since 400%, plus the first rise in beer often long hours and poor 1999 to reflect the local brewing duty for five years. The returns. In the next edition we and pub scene. Government’s temporary will be focusing on some of £1,000 discount on business these heroes behind bars, so What’s changed over those 18 rates bills for pubs with a please do drop me a line to years? Everything, and nothing. rateable value of less than nominate anyone running a real There has been a huge £100,000 is welcome, but many ale-focused pub who you think increase in the availability of pubs won’t see any benefit and has that “something special”. real ales and the breweries this just adds to the pressure. supplying it, many of them The Oxford Drinker has seen being local. Half a dozen new If there is a disconnect between many innovations in recent small breweries have opened in the growing number of years, including the introduction the last year, each with its own breweries and the declining of regular columnists, “Down approach to the “craft beer” number of pubs, then that only Memory Lane” features, reports revolution whether it’s in cask, spurs on brewers to find new on all the pubs in a particular bottle, keg or can. The first outlets for their produce area or town, and a major focus Oxford Beer Week – see back whether it’s a tap room on their on one local brewery in each page and page 37 – is a great premises, a deli-style or bottle edition – this time, it’s White idea to showcase local shop, special events or a Horse. But we can only breweries big and small. farmers’ market. continue innovating with more input from readers, so we The increase in breweries What hasn’t changed, however, welcome your views, mirrors the national scene, but is the pub’s role at the heart of a suggestions and news. so does the decline of the community, although that traditional pub which continues sometimes has to be fought for. What will edition number 200 be at a pace of about 20 a week It’s pleasing to report in this like, I wonder? Or even edition around the country. In Oxford edition on re-opening of the 125? Change is the only city centre we’re lucky to have community-owned Abingdon certainty, but hopefully we will such a vibrant pub scene, but in Arms in Beckley, and on plans still be around to reflect it. the suburbs and villages the to revitalise two pubs in the closure rate has accelerated Oxford suburbs. DAVE RICHARDSON because of the price of property [email protected]

Oxford Branch Contacts: Oxfordshire Trading

Chairman Editor of the Oxford Drinker Standards Service: Pete Flynn Dave Richardson [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk Graham Hill House Electric Avenue Secretary and Branch Contact Ferry Hinksey Road Steve Lawrence White Horse Branch Oxford OX2 0BY 01235 525436 Contact: Tel: 01865 815000 [email protected]@oxford.camra.org.uk [email protected] www.oxfordshire.gov.ukwww.oxfordshire.gov.uk

the Oxford Drinker 5 April - May 2017 100 Thame by comparison.. Dave Richardson THE GREAT THING about Thame – It is still a pub as well as a large apart from its many restaurant with two ales and Tony Goulding independent shops and available – the local XT-3, and visit an Oxfordshire businesses – is that nearly all the ubiquitous Sharp’s Doom market town its 10 town centre pubs are in a Bar. straight line, from Lower High Street at the Oxford end to Park The XT-3 was very palatable Street at the other. The fact that and the pub is worthy of its one of these pubs, the Cross Cask Marque status, but food Keys, is CAMRA’s regional Pub was expensive including “Posh of the Year made the idea of an Fish and Chips” -- £35 for two afternoon’s drinking there including four types of fish. At irresistible. that price I’d expect it sprinkled with caviar rather than salt and The 280 bus from Oxford – vinegar! operating every 20 minutes daytime and every 30 minutes Tony was looking forward to in the evening – dropped us visiting the Rising Sun after very close to the Six Bells, a many years, but this Brakspear Fuller’s pub, and the first of Pub Co property proved to be several historic hostelries. Six something of a disappointment. golden bells do indeed hang Brakspear Bitter is the regular from the pub sign, and the cask ale plus two others from curved bar inside adds the Marston’s range, these character with a rambling dining being Brakspear Jerusalem (a area nicely laid out for dinner. special for February) and Ringwood’s Boondoggle. The Five hand pumps were Jerusalem was tried but found dispensing London Pride (two), to be off, and although the Oliver’s Island and the Rugby- barman happily changed it for themed seasonal Front Row, the Bitter, he didn’t turn around but no guest ale was available the Jerusalem’s pump clip so it today. Oliver’s Island got the remained on sale. day off to a modest start, as we looked at the large garden and The Pad Thai restaurant now unusual display of vintage occupies the rear of the pub, French cycling posters – the with delicacies including Pla one for Laurent certainly Lad Prick which, whatever we attracted the eye but you’ll have might have thought, is in fact to see it to understand why. deep fried sea bass. While contemplating this we looked We had considered giving the over character features at the Thatch, a couple of hundred front including comfortable yards away, a miss – as it is sofas beside a real log fire, but better known as a restaurant. with unexciting ales it wasn’t a But a sign outside dating the place to tarry. building to 1550 made us ABOVE FROM TOP: The Thatch; curious, and inside it is very Arriving in the heart of town James Figg; Trudy at the Cross attractive with the original inn at along Cornmarket, our next stop Keys the front complete with log fire, was at the James Figg who OPPOSITE: The Cross Keys and a modern extension behind. was, an English boxing 6 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017

champion (1684-1734), native drink at the Spread Eagle, a ceiling covered by football of Thame, and “associated with Thame’s oldest hotel. The street shirts. Only GK IPA was on this inn, then called the entrance leads directly into a offer here, but we were told an Greyhound”. The pub was also very modern bar and restaurant interesting story that it was once more recently known as the in complete contrast to the called the King’s Arms, but Abingdon Arms, and dates from coaching inn dating from the when someone was hanged the 17th century although only 16th century, where a single here during the Civil War the an archway hints at its previous hand pump serves Rebellion name was changed as this role as a coaching inn. IPA. Its claim to fame is that couldn’t be done in a pub with John Fothergill, author of An that name. True or false? I don’t The beer choice here was more Innkeeper’s Diary (1932), used know. inspiring, apart from the Doom to run it. Apparently he was a Bar, including Purity’s Mad terrible snob and very rude – This part of Thame has several Goose, XT-17 and Hook attributes you still see in former pubs, and next to the Norton’s Hooky. The Mad landlords today, but not that Old Nag’s Head is a church now Goose was reliably good and often! functioning as a kitchen and the pub was very busy on a flooring shop. Smart’s Fish and Friday afternoon, including Next stop was the Black Horse, Chips was previously an ABC some families. It is part of another old building still used as pub called the Fox. Prezzo Peach Inns which also runs the a hotel, where a somewhat restaurant is also a former pub, Thatch, the Fishes in North harassed landlord explained once the Oxford Arms and then Hinksey and the Fleece in that the only real ale available the James Figg before that Witney, and seems to be a go- was from a 16-pint “beer in a name transferred to the former ahead small chain. But its box” on the counter. This was Abingdon Arms. Confusing? approach is “good honest food” Rebellion’s Roasted Nuts, but Yes – but at least we were still rather than the gourmet fare at again we didn’t try it. This type sober. some of the others. of “bright” beer didn’t appeal when better things lay in store, In Buttermarket just behind A sign across the road for the as we were keeping our powder Cornmarket is a lovely old pub Witch’s Ball caught my (if not our throats) dry. sign for the Saracen’s Head, attention, and this apparently with the Halls Hare (sign of a was a pub that disappeared in Another ancient but missable defunct brewery) on the wall. the 1960s. So it was on to the pub is the Old Nag’s Head, a This isn’t a pub any more either Birdcage, an odd, half-timbered basic Greene King and ex- – it’s a funeral parlour. And they building dating from “circa Morrells boozer right on the say pubs are a dying trade….. 1300”, the appearance of which market square which is a is spoiled by a most somewhat rowdy sports bar with The Swan Hotel, by the market inappropriate modern sign. This is known as one of the livelier pubs in the evening and is part of Bermondsey Pub Company, with a beer range including Fuller’s London Pride, Deuchars IPA and a guest ale, not available today. Pieminster pies (see their shop in Oxford Covered Market) are served.

We didn’t have a drink here as our thoughts were turning to the Cross Keys, and nor did we

the Oxford Drinker 7 April - May 2017 100 and opposite the Old Nag’s town), but with no storage impressive, much to Tony’s Head, is still very much alive space here whatever it delight. These included the local with quite a cosy bar, but new produces sells very fast. XT-4 is One Eyed Vince from Radnage, businesses now occupy parts of the only regular ale and all the Henry Weston’s Family Reserve the old coaching inn site. others rotate, the choice on this and Old Rosie, Thatcher’s Greene King supplies the beer occasion being Thame Cheddar Valley and Sheppy’s here and this included Swan Ale Brewery’s Hoppiness, Courage Farmhouse. (actually Belhaven), IPA and Directors, Hop Kettle’s North Morland Original, but a real Wall Best Bitter, Vale’s Brill The Cross Keys was busy with cider had just gone off. The Gold, Brakspear’s Jerusalem all ages at 6pm on a Friday, just Swan Ale was palatable, but it and Red Squirrel’s Mr Squirrel’s as a good pub should be. As was gone 5pm and that’s when Premium Bitter. I had a half of expected we didn’t have time to the Cross Keys was due to re- Hoppiness (against my instincts venture slightly out of town to open. – I think hoppy beers are over- the Falcon, a Hook Norton pub; rated) followed by a more or to the Star and Garter, now Situated on the edge of the satisfying Mr Squirrel, while an Indian restaurant. It’s always town centre on the corner of contemplating our surroundings. a challenge for other pubs to Park Street and East Street, this concentrate on real ale when a is Thame’s only Good Beer It’s a lovely traditional pub, not pub like the Cross Keys is in Guide pub, and 2016 Pub of the serving food but totally town, but as we made our way Year for CAMRA’s Aylesbury dedicated to drinking, and on homeward we reflected on a Vale and Wycombe branch. It the ceiling are an estimated day well spent, with the Six was also voted the Central 3,000 pump clips illustrating all Bells and James Figg our Southern region’s Pub of the the beers that have been favourites among the others. Year, putting it in the running for served here since Trudy and We had found 23 real ales from the national award. Peter Lambert arrived to run it 15 breweries, not bad for a eight years ago. It’s not just small town. The Cross Keys has its own about beer, either – the range of DAVE RICHARDSON micro-brewery (named after the real ciders was equally

8 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017

the Oxford Drinker 9 April - May 2017 100 Tony’s Travels Tony Goulding FOLLOWING ON FROM my article quiz on Monday evenings, at about the “Mitchells & Butlers least three beer and cider visits Oxford’s girls” in the last edition, I now festivals a year, and meet the Wetherspoons and discover that the three J.D. brewer nights. Our branch has a sundry other pubs Wetherspoon pubs in Oxford meeting here on 3 April at are also managed by ladies. 7.30pm, so come along and join us. Love them or loathe them, ’Spoons are here to stay. The second ’Spoons to open in Although not my first choice 2009, the Swan and Castle, is a they do provide a good service bright spacious bar surrounded to quite a diverse set of drinking by huge glass windows. It is and eating customers. I have to quite a rarity for managers to admit that not for a long time stay more than a couple of have I had to return beer in any years, but a young Steff of these three. Robinson has been here almost six. After only a year’s training Cowley Centre is a lively she was straight into this prime shopping scene representing site in Castle Street, which will the older generation from a long be even busier when the new -gone industrial age, and others Westgate shopping centre who have not had the choice in opens. life that is so obvious a couple of miles down the road. There is With Steff smiling behind the not the disposable income here, bar the hand-pumps were which reflects on the happy serving again the three regular crowd that support the William beers with up to five guests Morris. including a local ale. As with the next ’Spoons in George Street, Having opened a couple of a typical city centre customer years into the new century in a selection includes a mix during spacious, light and airy new the daytime of old and middle building, it has seen different ages, with evenings and trends that have sometimes weekends bringing in a younger blighted its reputation. But over generation. the last year young manageress Becci Fair has faced a huge A short walk into George Street, challenge and made a real and opposite Gloucester Green, impact. Becci has been with is the Four Candles – opened in ’Spoons for over 13 years 2008 in a former modern-build working at several levels, and Yates’s bar. This has more of a before that she was a student. pub feel and a second, upper level balcony bar. Another On the bar are the normal three youngster, Siobhan Finnegan, regular beers including Doom has been with the company for Bar, along with four guests 15 years, some at the ’Spoons including a local ale. A boxed in Northamptonshire and five of cider along with a selection of them at the Candles, since craft keg and bottles are also on leaving her native Ireland. FROM TOP: Becci Fair, Steff sale. Open all day from 8am, Robinson and Siobhan Finnegan the William Morris has a popular She is doing a great job here

10 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017

with a huge selection of craft, drinking and conversation with Sadones family, so it was a cans, bottles and ciders along a pretty good selection on the great delight to the residents of with up to 12 beers on the jukebox. Garsington when their only pub, pumps. Although it is rare for the Three Horseshoes, was me to eat in pubs, if the need Four beers are served – taken under Jackie Sadones’ arises I have no problem with Wychwood Hobgoblin, wing. Sadly, following her Wetherspoons and don’t forget Brakspear Oxford Gold, sudden passing last year, the that your CAMRA subscriptions Robinsons Trooper and at £3 a family handed back the Three each year are almost given pint Sharp’s Doom Bar, with a Horseshoes to Greene King. To back to you with 50p small selection of bottles. Our attempt to continue the good Wetherspoon discount local branch held meetings here work at the pub, Stuart the team vouchers. 10 years ago and I noted that from the equally popular Red the drinking here was described Lion in Marston have taken on Oxford: The Kite in Mill Street as dreadful, but this is not the the challenge. has struggled in recent years to case these days. This basic serve the local community, boozer, a real surprise in the Kidlington: Another Red Lion finally closing prior to rich city centre, is well worth a is closed and undergoing a Christmas. Hope has arrived visit when you find it tucked costly rebuild to become an with the present management away down an alley off the High Ember Inn, very much like the of the nearby Punter, formerly Street. Britannia in Headington, to the Watermans, who in cater more for family eating. It partnership with Greene King is Eynsham: Another run-down was only three years ago that completely refurbishing and former Morrells house, the Red the pub was pizza-ised. relaunching the pub as the Lion in the square at Eynsham, Porterhouse. It is due to reopen is the subject of a refurbishment Wolvercote: Landlord Tim by the end of May with the by Hawthorn Leisure, which Bowring and his team celebrate Punter’s proven emphasis on purchased a lot of allegedly 20 years at the Plough this good food and GK beers. failing pubs from GK. It used to year, with their story appearing be the prime pub in Eynsham in the GK company magazine. The Head of the River is being but following periods of a lack of Well done, as anyone who has heavily refurbished by Fuller’s care, the downward spiral successfully served under GK to re-open around Easter. This commenced. that long deserves a medal. follows a refreshing make-over The Plough has something for of the toilets and kitchen at the Garsington: The Old everyone, and I welcome its super Bear Inn, still serving Bookbinders in Jericho became very pleasant boxed cider in the Fuller’s, Gales and Shotover a very popular community pub summer months. beers in fine form. under the stewardship of the

The Wheatsheaf, not owned or run by any big brewery or pub group, has escaped being converted back to serve gastro food which was the case 35 years ago as a Buccaneer Inn. For some seven years it has been run by “the man in shorts”, Simon Hogarth. As Oxford’s top music venue, live performances take place upstairs up to four nights a week. The ground floor is for

the Oxford Drinker 11 April - May 2017 100 Pub News Beckley Eynsham coat of paint was being applied.

ABINGDON ARMS: EVENLODE: Reader Paul Sherwin writes: “The Oxfordshire’s seventh community This large pub – on the main A40 good news is that the Berkshire is pub has opened. Almost exactly road on the edge of Eynsham – certainly going to re-open in some one year after it was listed as an was closed and for sale at the form. A major refurbishment is Asset of Community Value, the time of writing. It was previously underway and residents in the Beckley and Area Community renowned for its good value immediate locality have received Benefit Society’s 280 carveries. a flyer promising wonderful shareholders took ownership of things. It appears that the pub this historic country pub in the Kidlington will be run by the people behind last week of January. It opened the Rusty Bicycle, either on lease DRUNK DRY: for business on 10 March only six or as freehold owners. It seems weeks later, after 60-plus local Recently opened on Banbury likely that the pub will be volunteers had repaired, Road, just along from the Black renamed in the same ‘amusing’ redecorated and cleaned it, Horse pub, this new off-licence is style. rebuilt the car park wall and very well stocked. Reader Chris tamed the garden. Dicks called in one Thursday “What is unclear is if such a evening for the weekly tasting market re-positioning will actually Volunteers staffed the bar for session, when Loose Canon was work. Although South Oxford has drinks-only sessions over the first giving out free samples whilst undergone considerable weekend, and the opening talking through its various brews. gentrification over the last 30 session attracted over 100 He describes it as “something years, it has a very different people celebrating the different and well worth a visit, demographic to East Oxford, and community’s success. The first but just check opening times as it geography limits the size of the real ale offering, 108 pints of shuts earlier than usual pub local customer base (just look at Shotover Prospect, was times.” www.drunkdry.co.uk a street map). There have been consumed before last orders attempts to move the Berkshire were called on the Friday Oxford up-market before, most notably evening, to be replaced on BERKSHIRE: as a Morrells real ale outlet about Saturday by a cask of XT4 which This Abingdon Road pub – briefly 20 years ago, and all have was all but finished by the day’s known as the Crooked Pot – struggled to find a market. end. closed in mid-March leading to Anyway, fingers crossed and I

fears for its future, the former look forward to visiting when it re- The community’s plan is to open Morrells and Greene King corner opens.” the pub for drinks each weekend pub having been sold to on Friday evenings and Saturday DUKE OF MONMOUTH: Hawthorn Leisure in 2014. But afternoons, until a tenant is Only a few hundred yards along signs in the window promised recruited. Then the Abingdon Abingdon Road from the craft ales and a menu of locally Arms will rebuild its former Berkshire, this large GK pub has sourced food including vegetarian reputation for a warm welcome, had a major refit including the and vegan options, and a new great drink and excellent pub welcome return of a traditional food in a beautiful rural setting pub sign in place of the Meet and overlooking Otmoor. Check Eat branding. opening hours before you visit at bacbs.org. Reader Paul Sherwin writes: “The interior decor is very like the GK Existing community pubs in the Wig & Pen in George Street and county are the Seven Stars at there are four hand-pumps Marsh Baldon, Red Lion at currently serving GK IPA, two GK Northmoor, White Hart at guest beers and Wadworth 6X. Wolvercote, Bull at Great Milton, The manager has said he intends the Plough at Great Haseley and to order a more adventurous beer the Plough at West Hanney. range in the near future. Brewdog . 12 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017

Punk IPA is available on keg for HOLLYBUSH: UNIVERSITY CLUB: those who like that sort of thing, City councillors have called in Doubt surrounds the future and Duvel is available in bottles. plans to convert this closed West operation of this popular venue “The beer quality has been Oxford pub into housing, so on Mansfield Road, which consistently good, and the planning permission will have to welcomes CAMRA members and management team is unchanged be sought. stages regular meet-the-brewer and presents a friendly welcome. events. The March event with The manager has stated that he HONEYPOT: Roosters was described as “the plans to introduce a CAMRA Oxford City Council has approved last event of this kind for the discount on cask beer, though demolition of this pub in foreseeable future” as event this was not in operation when I Hollybush Row, close to the space on the first floor was last visited. Standard pricing is railway station, to be replaced by needed for other uses, and very reasonable, however.” a block of flats. It was previously planned events including the visit known as the Albion and is close of Tiny Rebel on 28 April were to the former Chequers (latterly cancelled because of this. Maroon Bar), which was converted into housing. Wheatley JACK RUSSELL: RAILWAY INN: The locals’ fight to save this New It is understood that the former Marston pub has hit the end of Fuller’s pub has been sold for the road after the city council redevelopment as flats for retired approved its demolition and people. conversion into housing. Closed and sold by Greene King in 2015, it was badly damaged by fire last November.

KITE: This Greene King pub in West Oxford was closed at the time of writing, having had three sets of tenants in the last few years, but EAGLE & CHILD: is due to re-open in May under Young’s has acquired the lease of the same management as the this historic pub from M&B/ nearby Punter and renamed the Nicholson’s, and will completely Porterhouse. See Tony’s Travels PUBS FOR SALE/TO LET: revamp it by 2018 in an on pages 10. Isis Farmhouse, Oxford: £1 agreement with owner St John’s million freehold, below (via College. Separate drinking and Fleurets). dining areas will be established, Chequers, Cassington: £675,000 and a seven-bedroom boutique freehold (Fleurets). hotel opened on the upper floors Red Lion, Islip (Punch Taverns). of this and adjacent properties. Young’s also operates the King’s Arms and Angel and Greyhound in Oxford.

HEAD OF THE RIVER: Fuller’s flagship pub in Oxford, by Folly Bridge, has closed for a major revamp but is expected to re-open by Easter.

the Oxford Drinker 13 April - May 2017 100 Festival Diary Compiled by Richard Queralt Further details can be found on our website www.oxford.camra.org.uk

Wednesday 22 March - Saturday 20 - Sunday 21 MANY YEARS AGO Sunday 2 April May (actually, it was Wetherspoon Real Ale North Cotswold Spring Ale & only 2001 but that’s starting to Festival Steam Weekend look a worryingly long time ago All JD Wetherspoon pubs & Lloyds Winchcombe Station, off Becketts now), CAMRA launched its No1 bars Lane, Greet, nr Cheltenham campaign “Ask If It’s Cask” in 30 beers Closes early evening each day what turned out to be a very www.jdwetherspoon.com 32 beers plus 12 ciders & perries successful mission to save the www.northcotswoldcamra.org.uk real pint of bitter. It was all Friday 14 - Monday 17 April about getting people away from Black Horse Beer Festival Friday 26 - Sunday 28 May keg beer, and back to drinking Faringdon Road, Gozzard’s Ford, Rokefest Beer and Music traditional bitter from the cask. nr Abingdon Festival 01865 390530 Home Sweet Home, Roke, nr But keg is back, and in an www.the-blackhorse.co.uk Wallingford advertising move almost as www.rokefest.com great as the Lucky Strike Friday 21 - Sunday 23 April advertising campaign ‘It’s Spring Beer & Cider Festival Saturday 27 - Monday 29 Toasted”, it’s not called keg The Brewery Tap, Ock Street, May anymore, it’s called craft. For Abingdon Swindon & Cricklade Railway those who don’t know, by the 01235 521655 Real Ale & Cider Festival way, the Lucky Strike www.thebrewerytap.net Blunsdon Station, Tadpole Lane, advertising campaign “It’s Blunsdon, nr Swindon Toasted’ proudly boasted how Thursday 27 - Sunday 30 www.swindon-cricklade- Lucky Strike tobacco was, April railway.org well, toasted, unlike other Reading Beer & Cider Festival brands, whose tobacco Christchurch Meadows, George Saturday 3 June Great was also toasted. But it Street, Caversham Chadlington Beer Festival worked for them and 550+ beers plus 200 ciders, Chadlington Memorial Hall, consumers reported perries & foreign beers Chapel Row, Chadlington being able to taste www.readingbeerfestival.org.uk Open noon to 11pm the difference in a www.chadlingtonbeerfestival.com Lucky Strike. Mind Friday 28 – Sunday 30 April Spring Beer Festival Saturday 3 - Sunday 4 June The Nag’s Head, Bridge Street, Buzzrail Ale Trail Abingdon Leighton Buzzard Railway, Page’s 01235 524516 Park Station, Billington Road, www.thenagsheadonthethames. Leighton Buzzard co.uk 01525 373888 www.buzzrail.co.uk Saturday 29 April Witney Beer Festival Thursday 4 - Saturday 6 St Mary’s Church, Church Green, May Witney Banbury Beer Festival 60+ beers Army Reserve Centre, Oxford www.witneybeerfestival.com Road, Banbury 100 beers, ciders & perries www.northoxon.camra.org.uk

14 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017 Gardeners’ World Paul Silcock, landlord of the Gardeners Arms in Plantation Road, North Oxford, continues his regular column you, Lucky Strike also marketed though, against this craft But White Horse also does The itself as a slimming aid for movement. You can no more be Guv’nor in keg, which has one women so honesty wasn’t top of against craft beer than you can distinct advantage. It keeps its priorities. be against any product with an longer. So every now and then I advertising slogan. More to the can stock a keg and know it But it’s worth bearing in mind point craft beer, and by that I won’t turn before it’s sold. See that what the consumer is told is really mean keg beer – also XT’s Bastard Bunny. Its quite often what the consumer specifically keg beer from micro longer shelf life also allows bars thinks they get. I have honestly -breweries – is a wonderful idea which otherwise couldn’t offer heard customers at my bar in my opinion. It offers the anything like a real ale to stock drinking craft lager and telling chance to expand the range of something other than just their mates “Yeah, you can beer on offer considerably. bottles of beer. And we’ve been taste it’s crafted”. How? And drinking bottles for years how do you think it’s crafted? Take White Horse The Guv’nor, without grumbling too much. By a select group of beer elves which is a cracking pint, but it’s in the cellar just waiting for the 6.5% which offers a problem for Plus, isn’t this just about a opportunity to hand build your the drinker, in walking straight broader drinking experience? pint of beer from select spring after a night on it, but also the The Pint Shop in Oxford city water, a selection of natural publican, and not just in having centre offers 20 beers at any ingredients from Narnia, and to steer you out the door at the time, but not one of them is some string? end of that night. Not everyone cask. Now that’s not for wants a beer that strong, and it everyone’s taste, but I doubt Now all this makes me sound can be a bit hard to sell a barrel that any of the micro-breweries like I’m rather against craft beer. of it quickly enough to keep it in making beer in keg for sale I’m not. I’ve heard a few tip-top condition in a pub my somewhere like the Pint Shop grumbles from other people, size. are putting any less effort into their brewing than more traditional breweries are for their cask beers. In fact, quite probably more effort than some of the big breweries. Without naming names, let me just say Kreen Ging, and leave it at that.

So, while craft beer really isn’t crafted, at least any more than anything else you could drink, it certainly shouldn’t be demonised, but quite possibly be celebrated as a way to expand and improve our drinking experience. Now just don’t get me started on artisan beer…

the Oxford Drinker 15 April - May 2017 100

16 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017 100 not out Matt Bullock looks back on the history of the Oxford Drinker as we reach out 100th issue

AS THE OXFORD DRINKER reaches the deliberately or accidentally, milestone of one hundred issues, it sometime during the Saturday. If seems an appropriate time to look you have a genuine glossy copy of back on the previous 99 issues, the Issue 1, it’s definitely a rarity! highs and the lows, and to thank those who have made its Future issues stuck to the A4 production possible over the past format: we expanded to 4 pages for eighteen years. the second, and, boosted by our first advertising, to 8 pages for the The Oxford Drinker story begins, third. These early issues seemed to somewhat oddly, on a Tuesday be the bringers of bad news – night in July 1999 in a now- several pub closures, the closure of forgotten pub in Bampton. Morland brewery, the threat to pubs Members of the Oxford branch, due to Bass’ price increases (beer myself included, were embarking going up to £2.50 a pint!), and even on one of Tony Goulding’s popular a letter (our first) criticising our minibus survey trips to the west of choice of a Morrell’s pub for a the county. Having departed the branch meeting, so after issue 6, I Wharf House pub in Oxford, we had took a slightly different approach. drunk at the Trout at Tadpole Bridge and the Morris Clown in Issue 7 (September 2000) was Bampton, before heading for the notable in that it was the first to be Elephant and Castle. It was here in the current smaller (A5) format, that I raised the subject of a branch 16 pages on orange paper to make newsletter – I had been involved in it stand out. The coloured paper producing one for my previous was changed each issue to make it branch, Solihull, before I moved to more obvious when a new issue Oxford in 1998 – and it was agreed was out, as the first six had been that it was a good idea; the editor’s literally black and white and had job was mine. And so began the essentially looked very similar. An Oxford Drinker. attempt was made to make the contents a little more upbeat, The newsletter got off to something without shirking the issues of the of an inauspicious start. We had day. The centre pages featured a decided to launch at the Oxford guide to the best pubs in the city Beer Festival in October 1999, so centre, aimed at visitors to the 500 copies of our two-page, A4 festival, and from the next issue, I size, black and white publication introduced a regular feature of a were delivered to the Town Hall to pub crawl of an area of the city, or a be handed out to unsuspecting town nearby, visiting all the pubs punters. I’m not sure how many and describing them, and also were distributed, but by the second giving them a star rating. The first night a significant number remained crawl was of George Street, and in the box, and I believe most of aside from the Cock and Camel (4 these ended up in the bin, either stars) the other venues did not find

the Oxford Drinker 17 April - May 2017 100 Dave Aitken Grahame Allen Sue Allen Helene Augar much favour. (February 2002) by reporting the Graham Baker sale of the Turf Tavern to the Laurel Chris Bamford Obviously at the time, the pub Pub Company, which would result Carly Banner industry was struggling, and there in the removal of all guest beers, Ray Bateman was no escaping the fact that pubs something the Turf at the time had were closing, and this was reported gained a great reputation for under Mark Bates on a regular basis. The pub crawl the management of Trevor Walter. Adrian Bolton features tried to strike a more light- The licensee at the time took angry Ray Borrett hearted balance – they had grown exception to the story, though we Dick Bosley into a social night out to conduct eventually buried the hatchet, but the research, and were a popular only after his pub had been Dennis Brown feature of the magazine. These acquired by Greene King and lost Stuart Bull reviews would eventually gain me a most of its guest beer choice! Matt Bullock regular column about pubs and real Andrea Bunce ale in the Oxford Mail, but my After an up-beat 2001, the issues in review in Issue 13 of a barman’s 2002 were again bringing the Magda Clarke bizarre means of serving six halves drinkers of Oxford bad news: the Andy Coates of Burton Ale at the Chequers on former Firkin pubs dropping real Dave Cogdell the High Street on a busy Friday ale, and Brakspear closing down its Michael Corlett night –three half glasses and two historic brewery in Henley, and brim-filled pints – had another Greene King acquiring the former Neil Crook knock-on effect: apparently it Morrell’s pub estate. Better news Kian de la Cour resulted in him being dismissed. was to follow, firstly Wetherspoon’s Geoff Day Harsh, maybe, but I’m pleased to arrival in Oxford (Issue 22, April Jeremy Dennis say standards in the Chequers are 2003), Brakspear moving to Witney much improved now! to be brewed by Refresh at Chris Dicks Wychwood using the old Brakspear Dermot Dobson I courted controversy in Issue 15 brewing kit (Issue 24, August Mike Dodgson Mark Doran Issue 7: the Steve Dunkley format is reduced to A5 size and John Evans coloured paper Everards Brewery introduced! Fin Dave Flitney Pete Flynn Dave Fogden Matt Ford Mick Furn

Issue 1 is Issues 2 to 6 are Issue 15 and the launched, but not more successful. Drinker courts many made it The format is A4, controversy by into circulation! black and white criticising the sale of the Turf 1999 2000 2001 2002

18 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017

2003), and the acquisition of the due to the appalling service at the George in Littlemore by Gales Ock Mill. In June 2006 (Issue 41) (Issue 27, February 2004). we reported a triple-header of departures: Young’s were to leave By this time, the magazine had their Wandsworth site; Tony grown to 24 pages, and was self- Flatman was selling up at the sufficient in terms of having enough Wharf House pub, and I was advertising to cover its costs and stepping down as the Oxford having enough contributors to Drinker’s editor. Young’s moved to ensure that I had to do very little Bedford, the Wharf House became writing myself. In October 2004 we flats, and the Drinker needed were delighted to announce a new somebody else to step up to the arrival to the Oxford brewing scene, plate. Old Bog, which bought brewing back to the city after a five year That person was Sam French, our absence. resident cider guru, who had been assistant editor for a while and took The gloom of the pub trade sole charge from Issue 42. The continued. The impending smoking magazine changed little in ban was bringing predictions of appearance initially, but gradually mass pub closures, and in June Sam stamped her ideas on the 2005, before the ban came into publication, and by the 50th edition place, Oxford had lost the King of in 2008, the cover was in full colour. Prussia in Rose Hill, the Globe in The 50th issue also included a copy Jericho and the Plasterers in of issue 1 in its centrefold to remind Marston Road. In August, the pub people just how far we had come in crawl featured Abingdon and nine years. awarded its first zero stars rating

Issue 15 and the

2003 2004 2005 2006

the Oxford Drinker 19 April - May 2017 100 Sam French Tony Goulding Gareth Green Johanne Green The effect of the smoking ban, Sam’s tenure in charge of the Steven Green which came in on 1 July 2007, was Drinker lasted until issue 59; the Jim Hague often blamed on the increase in pub following edition (February 2010) Chris Hale closures, something that featured was now in the capable hands of Dave Hambly too regularly, and often prompted a husband-and-wife team Johanne healthy response on the letters and Steven Green, initially assisted Lawrence Harman page. We still managed to provide by Jon Price and Carly Banner. Mick Hemmings a good mix of articles, pub crawls, Whilst still at 24 pages, the new Matt Heritage foreign trips, pub news and even editors introduced more colour and Matthew Hicks cryptic crosswords, and circulation in the April issue that year (61), the was increased to 2000 copies. format was changed to 32 pages of David Hill full colour, which we continue to Dawn Hipwell Whilst a variety of writers continued use – this issue excepted – today. Neil Hoggarth the pub crawl reports that had been At the same time, we teamed up Derek Honey a mainstay of the magazine for with our neighbouring White Horse several years, in mid-2009 Tony branch to offer them some space in Hook Norton Brewery Goulding began writing about his the magazine to report their news, David Howe travels around the region’s pubs – widening the circulation to Harry Hudson something he continues to do for Faringdon, Wantage and the Chris Hunter the Oxford Drinker to this day. Even surrounding villages; 4000 copies back then, Tony was running were now produced to serve this. Chris Johnson minibus trips to visit out-of-the-way Phil Jones pubs, with the occasional brewery The move to full colour presented Steve Lawrence thrown in for good measure, and certain challenges but also offered Loddon Brewery without his enthusiasm and significant opportunities, not least of dedication our collective knowledge which was the chance to sell full Loose Cannon of the branch’s pubs would be colour advertising, which was much Brewery much more limited. more attractive to our customers Mike Lord Andrew Loutit Lawrence Lustgarten Steve Lympany John Mackie Jerry Macklow Matteo Malacaria Issue 50 Dan McHugh introduces colour Robert Mitchell for the first time Kevin Moreland Tony Morris

Issue 41 is the last edited by Issue 59 is Matt Bullock, for Sam French is a while..... the last the new editor of produced by the magazine Sam

2006 2007 2008 2009

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and readers alike. Adding to this Brewery, not in our area, but a the better reproduction of brewery that has since gained a big photographs, very soon the and most welcome presence in the magazine began to take on a Oxford pub scene. completely different look and feel, though the spirit and sentiment Steven and Johanne edited the remained as before. Johanne magazine up until issue 76, when worked very hard to get new pressure of work forced them to advertising to support the expanded step down. There were no willing and enhanced format, and many of volunteers waiting in the wings to the fruits of her labour we still take over, and a consequence, benefit from today: some of our there was no issue in December advertisers have been very loyal 2012, nor was there much hope of supporters over the years. The first anything going to press in the New full-colour issue also heralded the Year. I was chairman of the branch arrival of Loose Cannon brewery, at the time, and not wishing to see the first in Abingdon since the the Oxford Drinker disappear closure of Morland in 1999, and altogether after 13 years of effort, I fitting in many ways as our new decided to give the magazine one editorial team were based in the final chance to see if we could town. kindle anyone’s interest.

CAMRA celebrated its 40th birthday Issue 77 hit the bars of Oxford in in Issue 67 (April 2011), we February 2013 with an appeal for launched the award-winning help in continuing production of Oxford, Abingdon and Witney Pub what is our biggest year-round Guide in issue 70, and the following campaigning and information tool. edition saw the arrival of XT An open meeting was arranged at

Issue 60 Johanne and Steven Green take on the Matt Bullock back editorship in charge, for one issue only 2010 2011 2012 2013

the Oxford Drinker 21 April - May 2017 100 Old Bog Brewery Oxford Mail and Times Palmers Brewery David Pearce the St Aldate’s Tavern in March for which to use, amend them as Tony Perry people to offer what they could to needed to fit and put the magazine Alistair Pitman the cause. I was not keen to take together for the printer. Dave, on Jon Price on the mantle again, and thankfully the other hand, used his journalistic Richard Queralt I did not have to. The meeting was expertise and immediately began well attended by some enthusiastic going out looking for stories, Dave Richardson and practical people, and from travelling to meet and interview new Keith Rigley amongst the crowd, Dave publicans, brewers, finding the JesperRosenlov Richardson stepped forward to take stories that would fill the pages of Martyn Sanders on the editor’s job. the magazine.

Cameron Shiell Dave had been contributing to the He profiled the then new Graham Shelton magazine for a number of months community pub at Marsh Baldon, Paul Sherwin prior to this, and as a freelance the Seven Stars, and also Shotover Brewery journalist, he was eminently highlighted the plight of the qualified for the task. I took on the Fairview pub in Headington Michael Sibbald design and production, and (featuring some excellent Paul Silcock Johanne continued for a while to photographs of the historic interior Mick Slaughter sell advertising, and a new era by Michael Slaughter); the following Graham Smith commenced. issue he met with the founders of the Oxford branch of CAMRA and KrissSprules Having a professional journalist as resurrected the pub crawl feature Russ Taylor editor took the Oxford Drinker to a with a visit to Wheatley and Jon Tillson new level. I can speak for myself, Otmoor. The days of filling space Vale Brewery and possibly for the others, when I with re-hashes of What’s Brewing say that the editor’s role in the past articles or CAMRA press releases Wadworth Brewery had been to wait for articles to were over! Rob Walters arrive in your inbox, to choose West Berkshire Brewery Tom White White Horse Brewery Caroline Whiting Chris Williams Ian Winfield

Issue 78 and the Issue 92 and new editor is our biggest Dave Richardson ever prize - a day’s brewing at Hook Norton worth £500

2014 2015 2016 2017

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From this point onwards, the of the extensive archive of pictures magazine has gone from strength from the Oxford Mail and Oxford to strength. In addition to all Dave’s Times in a “Memory Lane” feature work, we have had a number of that has proved very popular. regular contributors, brewers, bar staff, publicans – and politicians, So 17 years, 8 months and 10 alike (in Issue 86 Dave is pictured days after that initial “why don’t with the then Prime Minister, David we....” suggestion in the Elephant Cameron). We continue to report and Castle, I find myself preparing on the ups and downs of the pub this for the centenary issue. I’m industry – the closure of Far from older, and hopefully wiser, but the Madding Crowd in Issue 88 very proud to have played a (February 2015) took many by significant part in getting the surprise, whilst the growth of the Oxford Drinker to this point. community owned pubs – including the Abingdon Arms in this issue – is Naturally, a lot of other people a change few of us would have have helped too, and I thank all envisaged at the outset but is now the individual contributors, providing a lifeline for rural pubs breweries, publicans and where villages have been left with advertisers for their part in the few or no other local community story. We mustn’t forget the facilities. customers, you, our readers, who hopefully continue to enjoy reading Dave was commissioned to write a our output, and we thank you for book on Oxford Pubs in 2015, and your occasional kind comments! as a result of the contacts Hopefully the Oxford Drinker will be established whilst researching it available to you for many years to has been able to reproduce some come.

LEFT: Four ‘generations’ of Oxford Drinker editors caputured on camera by chance at Tap Social, Botley. From Left to right, Matt Bullock (issues 1- 41, 77); Sam Shiell (nee French, issues 42-59); Steven Green (with JoHanne Green, issues 60-76); Dave Richardson (issues 78-100, and counting….)

the Oxford Drinker 23 April - May 2017 100

24 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017 Gala Night Glamour

CAMRA’s Oxford branch held its first gala night in February, with LoveBeer kindly donating a barrel of its renowned Purdy Peculiar. All local breweries and Good Beer Guide pubs were invited, plus local CAMRA supporters. Certificates were handed out to winners at the Oxford Beer Festival in October, when the top three from 21 local brewers were chosen in a “blind” tasting. Certificates also went to the two Pubs of the Year.

TOP: Brothers Chris (left) and Matthew Meeson of the Mason’s Arms, Headington with their City Pub of the Year award from branch chairman Pete Flynn. MIDDLE: CAMRA’s Matt Bullock (left) with the overall winner (for the second year) – John Romer of Turpin Brewery, for Golden Citrus. BELOW LEFT: LoveBeer won runner- up spot for Purdy Peculiar. From left: Jim Southey, Matti Juvonen from CAMRA and Jeremy Scott. BELOW RIGHT: Matt again with Chris and Vanessa Hearn from Loddon Brewery, in third place for Peeler.

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Relaxed casual revolutionaries Graham Shelton, chairman of the company that bought the Red Lion at Northmoor for the community, continues his regular column

I LOVE CAMRA. Quietly and pleasure to congratulate them their formulae for success. We effectively CAMRA members for setting such high standards. could maybe put together some are changing the world into a What was interesting to me, sort of top-line community pubs better place. I know this from though, was not so much who document based on what we personal experience. won, but that for the first time learn. Others could use this two of the seven finalists were, when their opportunity comes to Here’s an instance. Oxford and one of the two winners was, purchase their local for the branch chairman Pete Flynn a community-owned pub: community. If you would be very kindly invited me to the another quiet CAMRA-inspired interested to participate in this CAMRA Gala Evening, held at revolution that would not have activity do, please, let me know the St Aldate’s Tavern. It was a been possible even five years via the editor, Dave Richardson. wonderful event, and I am ago. happy to record my thanks for The beer for the Gala Evening having a great time. The Red I was very grateful to have the was very kindly provided by Lion, Northmoor was in opportunity to say a few words micro-brewer Lovebeer, from contention to be Town and at the Gala Evening about Milton, which also won one of Country Pub of The Year, and community pubs, drawing the coveted prizes determined so it was lovely that I could join particularly on the Red Lion by blind tasting at the Oxford Ian and Lisa Neale, intrepid experience. Community pubs Beer Festival last year (pictured young Red Lion landlords, and definitely offer a great below receiving their certificate). many others at the celebration. opportunity to create a new, The rise of micro-brewers and sustainable business where community pubs seem like Not wishing to be older-style tenancies are no parallel trends to me. In my inappropriately dressed, I longer financially viable. view, we need to find ways of enquired about the dress code, Business success is never won helping them to collaborate and thinking that maybe I’d have to easily, however, even with thrive together. Maybe CAMRA brush down the DJ and try to community support. There is no could take an even greater role remember how to “tie a bow tie substitute for intelligence, hard in fostering these links? by viewing in the mirror”, a task work and a keen eye on the guaranteed to stress the most costs to go along with that warm If anyone can, CAMRA can. gentle of souls. Happily the welcome, well-kept beer and You may not know it, but in your word came back: relaxed great food. It’s a deceptively own relaxed, casual way you casual. Phew! That’s my kind of simple formula, but very hard to are revolting and I love you! party. I had never heard the do well. term “relaxed casual” before, but like it very much and I am keen to create a applaud the quiet revolution in community pubs outing, if dress code. members of CAMRA would be interested. The idea would be to The Oxford POTY prizes went make a tour, perhaps over a this year to the Seven Stars, couple of days, of all the Marsh Baldon, and the Masons community pubs in the area to Arms in Headington. Worthy find out what makes them tick winners both, and it is a and ask those in charge about

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the Oxford Drinker 27 April - May 2017 100 Brewery News soft fruit with a hint of citrus. Hop finalised in March, and the new Church To It will be on the bar at the pale ale will be on draught at the Hanbrewery brewery, in Hook Norton pubs Nag's Head and possibly other and available to the free trade, in venues in early June, with gigs in Founded in Church Hanborough, cask for March and April only. the pub to mark the launch. between Oxford and Witney, in Hook Norton’s recently acquired November 2015 but now Oxford pub, the Castle Tavern, Abingdon Concert Band and operating from New Yatt, the will re-open this summer after a Abbey Brass were founded in brewery produces ten real ales major revamp. 1977, and were put in touch with that are 100% pure, LoveBeer by the Nag’s Head. unpasteurised, unfiltered and Loose Cannon unclarified – without isinglass or Old Forge gelatine. Its slogan is “Cloudiness Recoil (4.2%) is the seasonal ale is Purity”! for spring, a dry-hopped, all The micro-brewery has moved Pilsner malt brew, following on from the Radnor Arms at Coleshill Hanbrewery beers are available from Basilisk (4.6%) in March. As to Ye Olde Swan pub at Radcot, in many shops, such as Eynsham with all monthly ales it is named by the Thames on the A4095 Cellars in Eynsham, the Grog after a famous cannon – a late Witney to Faringdon road. Shop in Oxford, Hampers Food medieval cannon used to besiege and Wine in Woodstock, Drunk towns and cities. OXBREW Dry in Kidlington, and Foodies in Deddington. With a recycled It has begun canning and will Producing “good quality crafted paper label that is wrapped soon add the 5% Oxford Pilsner cask ales and bottled conditioned around the bottle, its beers are and 4.1% Session IPA and 5.4% beers with a modern twist” is the easily recognisable. Full Bore IPA. mission of Oxfordshire’s newest brewery, OXBREW. Stepfather “Sustainability is very important The inaugural Brewery open day and son duo, Aaron Baldwin and to us, and we have designed was on 18 March and brewery Simon Scamp, are installing an these labels so that we could tours are proving as popular as eight-barrel brew-house at their clean and reuse the bottles more ever. As well as the usual first unit on Enstone Airfield near easily, as the label is not glued to Tuesday of every month, Chipping Norton, with the aim of the bottle,” says Luciana additional dates on 18 April and having their first commercially Gyuricza, joint founder with 16 May have been added to available beers ready by the husband Christian. satisfy demand. Members will summer. again be benefitting from their Two of its beers -- Bluenette own special tour event and BBQ Aaron, born and raised in Oxford, (honey and oatmeal porter, 5.5%) on Saturday 13 May when has spent the last few years and Red Beetter (English bitter customers who have enjoyed researching, experimenting and with beetroot, 5%) -- featured at every single beer produced in refining a range of beer styles. the Oxford Beer and Cider 2016 will be rewarded with some Simon, originally from Kent, has Festival in 2016. Draft beer in special gifts. Loose Cannon will been brewing on and off on a casks and kegs was then be at the Abingdon Air and small scale since the 1990s and produced for pubs and other Country Show on 14 May. brings a wealth of knowledge and events, and may be found at the experience. Chester Arms and the Library in LoveBeer Oxford, and the Rose & Crown in Aaron Baldwin says: “We’re Fresh from being named Beer of Charlbury. excited to now be able to turn our the Festival at Wantage in March long-standing passion into a for new brew Hair of the Doug, it business. We have been Hook Norton is working on a special overwhelmed with the support anniversary ale marking the 40th Back this Easter by popular and genuine interest that local ruby anniversary of the Abingdon demand is the “eggstremely” brewers have shown us, and look quaffable Hop To It (3.8%), a pale Concert band and Abbey Brass. A amber ale delivering a taste of naming competition will be Continued on page 30

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the Oxford Drinker 29 April - May 2017 100

Brewery News continued from ale brewed with pale English malt is brewing a special XT666 page 28 - OXBREW and hops that are all English too. (South Seas Black Magic!) to forward to working with the celebrate the 666th brew – a Oxford Brewers’ Alliance.” After a short gap due to a change strong Black IPA at 6.66%. in personnel, new brewer Ben To find out more about OXBREW, Amos is now at the helm and the Two new Animal beers are follow it on Facebook: Aylesbury Brewhouse Co. is up Buzzard, a Yakima Pale 4.6% www.facebook.com/oxbrew and running once again. Very beer; and Buffalo, an American little else has changed, with the Amber 4.6% brew. Other beers in Tap Social brewery still focused on the pipeline include Lion, a producing single batch limited London Porter at 4.6%; Simian, a Two more beers are being edition craft beers that are both hopped-up Red 4.2%; and Orca, a produced by this new brewery in interesting and enjoyable to 4.9% beer with a single malt and Oxford – Thrutchy Moves, a 4.2%, make and drink. single hop – Maris Otter and a kolsch-style Belgian pale ale; Wakatu. and Monkey Bars, a 7.3% Belgian Gamma, a 5% Black IPA, dubbel. No finings are used to represents the first outing for It will be supporting Oxford Beer clear the beers, so a natural haze Ben. Once seen as a Week with its first open day of is present and they are vegan- contradiction in terms, Black IPA 2017 on 6 May, from 10am to friendly. has become one of the most 5pm. recognised styles to come out of Tap Social’s beers are served in the craft beer boom. It is as dark the bottle or by key-keg and are as a stout with the big hop naturally carbonated through the character and clean finish of a conditioning process, with no gas classic IPA. added. Core beers are Good Size Eh?, an American pale ale (4.5%); Next up is Beaver State, a 4.2% Grebe’s Procession, an oatmeal American Wheat beer, an stout (5.5%); Bigboy Pants, a adaptation of a classic Bavarian Belgian sour beer (3.8%); and hefeweizen. Supernova, a 4.8% Bleeding Heart Numbskulls Cranberry and Thyme (5.5%). West Berkshire

A taproom and a bottle shop are The new brewery at its existing open to the public from 4pm- premises in Yattendon is taking midnight on Fridays and shape, with direct access from Saturdays. It is also planning to the shop into a beer garden for have brewing courses where you summer events. It is due to open can learn how to brew and take by August, using equipment home the beer. sourced from Italy. The brew- house will also be visible from the Vale/ABC shop/café. Beers in the pipeline for Vale ABOVE: A good choice of beers is include Just Like That (3.9% - Fez XT Red), its tribute to the great available every Friday and Saturday from 4pm at Tap Social Tommy Cooper. Roasted malt Following the success of its three Movement’s brewery bar on the character with a combination of new craft beers, Snake IPA, Squid Curtis Industrial Estate at Botley spicy, floral English hops makes Ink and XPA have become this a classic beer for a classic permanent beers and are selling comedian. Fork Handles (4.2% well. The latest beer in the XT17 Blonde) doffs its caps to another Single Hop range has been British comedy classic, a blonde brewed using Jester hops, and it

30 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017 Pubs of the Year

A community-owned village pub is one of two named Pubs of the Year 2016 by the Oxford branch of CAMRA. The Seven Stars on the Green in Marsh Baldon has won the Town and Village award for the first time, whereas the Mason’s Arms in Headington Quarry has won the City award several times before.

CAMRA members vote using a range of criteria with beer quality being foremost, followed by style/ décor, service and welcome, community focus and atmosphere, alignment with CAMRA’s values, and overall impression. The 2015 holders of the awards were the Nag’s Head in Abingdon, and Lamb and Flag in Oxford.

Runners-up were the Nag’s Head and Red Lion, Northmoor in the Town and Village award, and the Lamb and Flag and Chequers in the city.

To be considered for our Pub of the Year awards, pubs must first make it into the Good Beer Guide. The Oxford branch hopes for an increase in allocation for 2018 from 17 pubs to 21, and 24 by 2019.

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Brewery Focus: White Horse Dave Richardson AS YOU HURTLE west at 125 mph on the day of my visit he was ventures to Stanford- along the Great Western railway answering phone calls and line between Didcot and serving a shop customer as well in-the-Vale to hear Swindon, you might just get a as talking about beers and about a brewery that glimpse of the white horse that brewing. takes its name from gives its name to a district council, a brewery and a branch Andy has worked in brewing all ancient times of CAMRA, to mention just his life, first with Whitbread in three. Romsey and then with Clark’s in his native Yorkshire. He came The B4507 road leading west to work at Wychwood in Witney out of Wantage gives a closer in 1993 where one of its view, and if you clamber up the founders, the late Chris Moss, hillside you can admire a was an inspiration. Andy not carving in chalk dating back only worked in sales and 3,000 years, the oldest in deliveries but also ran Britain. A one-mile walk along Hobgoblin pubs in Newbury and an ancient route called the Oxford, when Wychwood had a Ridgeway leads to Wayland’s chain of around 20 with the Smithy, an ancient burial site Hobgoblin name. The Oxford that lends its name to one of pub run by Andy and his wife White Horse brewery’s beers. Pam was previously known as the Bulldog and is now St The brewery is situated on a Aldates Tavern, becoming modern industrial estate in the Oxford CAMRA’s Pub of the heart of the Vale of White Year during his tenure. He Horse, being set up in 2004 by stayed on after the chain was Andy Wilson (pictured left) and sold but then worked for partners at a time when new Bateman’s before deciding to breweries were still rare. Today set up his own brewery. it is a thriving enterprise which is just the right size to be a “We had to be situated in the reliable partner for pubs and Vale to be called White Horse retail outlets, without losing Brewery, and the horse itself is sight of its founding principles. sometimes visible from here,” he says. “Our intention was Andy – with partners Keith Bott always to sell quality beer, but (who runs Titanic Brewery in not to become the biggest or to Stoke-on-Trent) and Will Bebb – sell out after a few years. We is a very hands-on boss. Only still have the same malt and half a dozen people work for hop suppliers as on the day we White Horse in any case, and started, as it’s all about building

32 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017

friendships with people.” red pale ale Show Pony which supporter. Membership of the we did at the beginning of the Society of Independent Brewers Regular beers are White Horse year. Hoppy beers might have a (SIBA) has also opened the Bitter (3.7%), Village Idiot lovely fragrance, but you can’t door to many other pubs, but (4.1%), Wayland Smithy (4.4%) get rid of it on your palate.” there is always one pub where and a mild, Black Beauty a good range of White Horse (3.9%). Village Idiot, instantly White Horse is not against beers is guaranteed. recognisable by its amusing innovation, however, and head pump clip, is the best seller and brewer Nathan Beet – ably It took over the lease of a pub “brewed in honour of the village assisted by Alex Timms – is owned by Everards, the Royal idiot who stands at every bar in free to experiment. The summer Blenheim in Oxford city centre, the land, dispensing pearls of special will be Pferdestarke Pils, in 2008. The pub acts as its wisdom such as ‘the water’s not a 4.6% German-style cask ale. brewery tap while also selling that deep – it only comes It is also experimenting with up to half a dozen other real halfway up the ducks’”! Andy kegs – a version of Crazy ales, often including one from describes it as a Northern-style Horse, and The Guv’nor, which Everards and one from Titanic. bitter whereas Wayland Smithy at 6.5% is its strongest beer. With Mike and Jane Binyon is more of a traditional best maintaining the pub’s Good bitter. “I love the ideas of some of the Beer Guide listing after they young brewers, and it’s took over, the Royal Blenheim Black Horse Porter (5%) is wonderful to see more young is an essential stop on any brewed several times a year people drinking ale – including Oxford pub crawl. It will have a while Dark Blue Oxford women – when it used to be make-over prior to re-opening of University Ale (4.3%) is a rich thought of as something for old the adjacent Westgate Centre in chestnut beer that is often men,” says Andy. “People will the autumn, and may hold available. Rudolph the Red always want to try different events during Oxford Beer Nosed White Horse (4.8%) beers, and there’s room for Week in May. appears every Christmas, while everyone as long as brewing is specials are produced quarterly done properly, and everyone What next for White Horse? rather than monthly with Crazy pays their way. Andy hopes that steady growth Horse IPA (4.7%) being will continue, but it’s not about currently available. “We are now covering the broad to go in any major new horizon of what people want to direction.“Let’s set trends, but “Many breweries do a special drink, but our core range is the not follow them,” he says. “Our every month, but people are same.” motto is ‘we brew beer to drink, often disappointed to find it and what we have left, we sell’. gone which is why we do it An advantage enjoyed by White That’s something we will keep quarterly,” explains Andy. Horse, but not by the micro- to.” “There is a major trend towards breweries that have sprung up hoppy golden beers, but we everywhere, is that its beers are www.breweryoxfordshire.co.uk haven’t gone along with that usually easy to find locally with except for Crazy Horse, and the Wetherspoon being a major the Oxford Drinker 33 April - May 2017 100 A stroll through the Vale Dick Bosley takes Shanks’s Pony from Wantage to Steventon

HAVING WALKED TO Wallingford in don’t think he would be spinning Eyston Arms. Again this is a a previous edition, this is a in his grave at the changes. pub well known for food but seven-mile pub walk from Although renowned for food – London Pride, Wadworth 6X Wantage through the attractive and Janine strongly and Hook Norton Hooky bitter downland villages below the recommends the Prawn and are normally available. Ridgeway. Salmon Gravlax Salad – it normally serves a Loose Again turn right out of the pub Wantage is easily reached by Cannon beer, Fuller’s London through the heart of this historic bus from Didcot, Abingdon and Pride, its own Ardington Ale and village, and go up White Road Oxford and has a good claim to a varying guest – when I called until you reach the main A417. be Oxfordshire’s real ale capital. it was an excellent 3.6% Brill Carefully cross this taking the Both the Royal Oak and the Gold from Vale. farm track almost opposite. This Shoulder of Mutton normally path takes you past some farm carry ten ever-changing beers Turn right out of the pub until buildings and a small copse each, so there is little point in you see a path going through a before leading down through a listing the ones available when I tunnel on your right. It would be gap in a hedge onto a path walked this route. For ease of remiss of me not to point out where there is a footbridge (with directions I’ll assume that you that should you have brought a some missing planks) that go to the Royal Oak first then horse or pony with you, you crosses Ginge Brook. Over a start walking form the Shoulder. cannot take this route. At the stile and into a field turn right, end of this path go downhill, and go over a couple of stiles Head away from Market Place over the stream and then turn past Hill Farm and St Michael’s along Wallingford Street, which left onto a track/path to West Church and then follow a raised becomes Charlton Road, until Hendred. After crossing the medieval pathway, the you reach the Nelson. This is a Ginge Brook you go through Causeway. This will lead you generic Greene King pub known one of the loveliest churchyards over the railway line to the for good value food, although in the county, reaching a road North Star in Steventon, where the Abbot Ale can be where you turn left, then after new landlords took over acceptable. about 100 yards there is a white recently. Continuing on the Here you turn up Larkhill and house on your right with a Causeway to the main road, after about 50 yards there is a signed path behind that you turn right to reach the Cherry path on your left that leads past follow. Tree where you will find a very allotments and a couple of well kept range of Wadworth’s houses into open countryside. This path takes you into East ales. This path goes past one of my Hendred, and if you carry favourite sloe collecting places straight on the road leads past From Steventon there is a half and onto a quiet road where the village hall and the church hourly bus service to return you you carry straight on, until (with no clock) when you can to any of the towns mentioned another footpath bends to the turn left up a slight hill to the above, with a bus stop outside left along the edge of Ardington the pub, for when you have Community Wood. Carry on sufficed. past the woodland into the village going over an offset One final note – although the crossroads, past the church, to Shoulder of Mutton and Cherry reach the Boar’s Head. Tree are open all afternoon, it may be worth checking the This pub has changed greatly opening times of other village since I first visited, when Ralph pubs before your trip. Radband was the landlord, but I DICK BOSLEY

34 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017 White Horse News Wantage

Kingston Faringdon Beer Bagpuize SWAN: HINDS HEAD: The new landlord and landlady Festival The branch is collecting of this popular real ale pub are signatures to list this village pub Andy and Liz Brotherston, as an Asset of Community Value, whose previous pub was the to try to stop it being converted Queen Charlotte in Windsor. into a supermarket. Sold to Andy aims to commence Hawthorn Leisure by Greene King brewing as he has done some in 2014, it is now subject of a training at Windsor & Eton and planning application by its owner. Bond breweries, the Faringdon In neighbouring Southmoor, the Brewery being on the pub’s owner of the Lamb and Flag has premises. Held at the Beacon on 17-18 been given planning permission March, this was considered a to convert it into a family home. It Steventon great success with 20 new closed in October. members recruited. All cider NORTH STAR: and perry was sold out and Shippon "H"and Lisa Pulleyn, new nearly 100% of the beer, with landlords of the North Star, are just one of the 28 mainly local PRINCE OF WALES: pictured receiving their Locale beers not making the grade to Ken Sandall and Cheryl Barnes certificate. serve. are pictured being presented with their Locale certificate.This Beer of the Festival as voted for popular village pub normally has by attendees was Hair of the three bitters – Timothy Taylor Doug by LoveBeer Brewery of Landlord and two local guests – Milton, and a presentation as well as three real ciders and evening will be arranged to good quality pub grub. It offers a award the certificate in due 20p discount to CAMRA course. Around £200 was members. Plans are in hand for a raised for festival charity, the summer beer festival and October Club (Alzheimer’s Day Shippon can be reached easily by Care Centre) in Wantage. foot, car or number 4 bus that runs between Abingdon and Oxford. Branch meetings

Tuesday 16 April: 7.45pm at the Red Lion, 3 Cornmarket, Faringdon, SN7 7HG.

Tuesday 9 May:7.45pm at the Prince of Wales, 60 Barrow Road, Shippon, OX13 6JQ.

A social is planned at the Reading Beer Festival Sunday 30 April at 12.00.

the Oxford Drinker 35 April - May 2017 100

36 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017

A CELEBRATION OF the incredible Kurt Moxley, from LAM range of local beers served in Brewing, said: “LAM is so Oxford will take place from 1-6 excited to be involved in May. The inaugural Oxford Beer providing craft beers in this Week will see a huge range of showcase of the best of local brews available in a host Oxfordshire’s beer. Good old of pubs across the city (see crafty Oxford!” back cover). The aim is to celebrate the Jon Tillson, second brewer at choice and quality of beers Wychwood Brewery, added: made locally, and to give beer “Oxford Beer Week is an lovers in the city the chance to opportunity to reach out to the discover new ales. Breweries people of Oxford and taking part – all members of the demonstrate the amazing Oxford Brewers’ Alliance – are: variety and quality of beers Oxford being produced on their Brakspear, Henley/Witney doorstep.” Church Hanbrewery, Witney Branch Hook Norton, Hook Norton Christian Gyuricza, from Church LAM Brewing, Kennington HanBrewery, said: “Church Diary Little Ox, Freeland HanBrewery is very proud to Loddon, Dunsden Green take part in the Oxford Beer Loose Cannon, Abingdon Week. This is a great event for Saturday 15 April Cotswold Brewing Company, Oxford citizens, tourists and Birthday Social Bourton-on-the-Water beer enthusiasts to experience 12 noon Shotover Brewing Company, the prolific range of different Social at the Mason’s Arms, Horspath local beers available in Headington Quarry, to celebrate Tap Social, Oxford Oxfordshire." 20 years of Chris Meeson being Turpin, Hook Norton in charge of our current City Pub Wychwood, Witney A full list of Oxford pubs taking of the Year. XT, Long Crendon part will be published nearer the event. For more information, Saturday 29 April James Clarke, managing see back page and visit Beer Festival Social director of Hook Norton oxfordbrewers.org/oxbeerwk, 12 noon Brewery, said: “Having spent facebook.com/oxbeerweek and Social at the beer festival at The last Mayday enjoying the twitter.com/oxbeerweek Nags Head on the Thames, delights of several pubs around Abingdon. the city, it became clear there was an opportunity to celebrate Tuesday 2 May the great diversity of beer brewed in and around the city Branch Meeting and county. 7.30pm White Horse, Ock Street,

Abingdon OX14 5DW “This is the first event under the Branch meeting in Abingdon, Oxford Brewers’ Alliance Meet beforehand at 6.30pm at banner. Oxford is a fantastic The Old Anchor, 1 St Helens city, with a diverse and exciting Wharf, Abingdon, for a natter beer scene, and we hope lots of before we walk along the Ock people, both locals and visitors, valley to the White Horse. All will enjoy a week of beer welcome. celebrations.” the Oxford Drinker 37 April - May 2017 100 Pete’s Pubs Branch chairman Pete FURTHER TO MY previous jaunt Tavern and this is where Flynn looks at pubs around Cowley (Issue 99),this Lorimer met Robert Clark, a time I was accompanied by our local head brewer. Pints were around Iffley and branch secretary, Steve drunk and plans were hatched. Cowley Roads in Lawrence, who amongst his Lorimer & Clark’s Caledonian Oxford multifarious duties is responsible Brewery opened in 1869 on for collating information for the Slateford Road in Edinburgh, CAMRA national database where it brews to this day. www.whatpub.com. It's a great Proof, if ever needed, that way to select pubs if you fancy a adventure begins with a pint. pub crawl anywhere in the country; I've used it countless I spent some time talking to times. We were both kept busy landlady Florence Fowler, who with Steve taking notes to is passionate about the pub she update each pub we visited and has been managing with her me hoping to garner enough partner, and chef, Tony Abarno information for my regular for about eight years. Prior to column. that they had worked in catering for 25 years in London so have Our first stop was the Magdalen bags of experience. The pub Arms on the corner of Magdalen offers a comfortable dining area Street and Iffley Road. This is a which can seat up to 200 pleasant pub serving the local people, and a walk through a community, even opening at central partition opens up a cosy 10am on Saturdays for coffee if back room. Local residents and a pint is not your forte first thing students are very supportive of in the morning. The pub is part the pub where the food menu of the S&N Heineken group and changes daily and a set menu is was offering four real ales: offered. To further cement Caledonian Over the Bar, relationships with locals the pub Caledonian XPA, Brakspear holds a flea market on the first Bitter and Deuchars Bitter. I Saturday of each month. opted for the former, a polished copper ale with an aromatically We didn't have to walk far to our hopped, bittersweet balance; a next venue, the Rusty Bicycle in good accompaniment whilst Magdalen Road, which is watching the Six Nations Rugby instantly recognisable by a bike series. attached to the top of the pub reminding me of a scene from An unfortunate event preceded the film ET. The pub is one from formation of the Caledonian the portfolio of Arkells Brewery, Brewery, as George Lorimer Sr Swindon which is an was walking past the Theatre independent family brewer Royal in Edinburgh as fire tracing its roots back to 1843. engulfed it. He attempted to save a trapped labourer but the Five real ales were available north wall of the theatre including Ruby Rye, Wiltshire collapsed, burying both men. On Gold, Hoperation, Moonlight and news of his father’s death, 3B. I tried the 5% Ruby Rye, a George Lorimer Jr returned beer brewed using rye which ABOVE FROM TOP: The Rusty home. He was a member of the adds a silky depth of flavour and Bicycle and the James Street Bruntsfield Links Golfing Society bigger mouthfeel to this Tavern whose members met at the Golf coloured beer; a touch of 38 the Oxford Drinker 100 April - May 2017 mandarina hops into the warm for my liking so I finished meadow nearby, which was hopback brings a light orange my half and we left. named after coaching inns that finish to the flavour. Very tasty, were at one time in the High and if Arkells plans to introduce Just off the Cowley Road is the Street. In its heyday (when further seasonal/guest ales then James Street Tavern which is a called the Oranges and I am excited. Greene King (GK) pub offering Lemons) the pub was six real ales when we visited. synonymous with punk rock, I was pleased to speak to Rob These were GK IPA, Shotover with performers such as Billy Sanders who, along with Sam Brewery’s Scholar and Idol of Generation X appearing. Thompson, jointly manages this Prospect, XT13, Loddon’s funky and friendly “chimney Hoppit and the house beer David was keen to talk and pub” (a Victorian or Edwardian known as JST Bitter. I opted for informed us of his plan to place building with original chimney) the XT13, a Pacific Red Ale greater focus on food for the with its cosy ambience. Rob has brewed with a cocktail of hops future. He has a background in plans to introduce a wood-fired selected from nations around catering and had worked for oven to offer enhanced pizzas the Pacific – Columbus from Bath Ales previously. I could to the locals. I've always north-west America, Galaxy see he is passionate and considered Arkells to be rather from Australia and Wakatau positive about future prospects anachronistic with its selection from New Zealand. for this fine Young’s pub where and presentation of beers, but five real ales were on offer Rob assured me that the I enjoyed this brew with a including Bitter, Special Bitter, brewery and its pump clips are caramel aroma whilst the flavour London Gold plus two guests, changing with youthful protégé is moderate to heavy,sweet and Twickenham Ales’ Grandstand Alex Arkell assuming the reins bitter with a long duration, fruity, and Purity Brewing’s UBU. at this family dynasty. A portent hoppy and dry with an oily for dynamic change, perhaps? texture possibly due to the I've always had a liking for Let's hope so. proliferation of hops. It's always Twickenham Ales so I opted for great to see local breweries the Grandstand Bitter and Our next stop was the Cowley represented in our pubs and XT wasn't disappointed. A well- Retreat which is almost adjacent from Long Crendon, Bucks is a hopped and well balanced to music venue the O2 fine example as the beer is refreshing amber session beer, Academy on Cowley Road. This highly regarded with the brew triple hopped with Brewers former Hobgoblin pub is popular numbers representing colours of Gold,it gives light citrus notes with students and now part of the spectrum. and a fresh clean finish. It's the the Punch Taverns empire. Four sort of beer, at 3.8%, that you real ales were available The James Street Tavern is wet can drink more than one of quite including St Austell Brewery’s -led although the barman told easily. We bade David farewell Tribute Ale, Sharp’s Doom Bar, me that a food offering is and offered him all the best for Purity Mad Goose, and imminent. Entertainment the future. Everards’ Tighthead. I chose the includes an “open mic” night on Tribute which is a 4.2% pale a Tuesday with comedy night As we made our way towards amber zesty ale with a lasting once a month. the High Street to board our bus white head, fruity on the nose, to Abingdon, Steve and I with biscuity flavour and juicy The last pub on our travels was reflected on our day and hope fruit flavours from the hops. the Angel and Greyhound, St that more and more people Clement’s Street, and it was come to use whatpub.com to Tribute was created to singularly appropriate that we locate pubs serving real ale; if commemorate the 1999 solar chose today to visit as the you are a member of CAMRA eclipse. It was originally a one- previous landlords, Richard and you can also score the beers off special named Daylight Kathryn Gibson, who have been you sample. Robbery but proved to be so successfully dispensing drinks popular it was reintroduced as since 2003, had recently left. Finally, I want to acknowledge Tribute and has since won This was an opportunity to meet Dave Richardson’s book Oxford several awards around the UK. the new manager, David Oram, Pubsfor information contained in It now accounts for 80% of sales who had arrived just over a this article for this Cornish brewer, but week ago. The pub’s current (www.oxfordpubhistory.co.uk). unfortunately the beer was too name is derived from the PETE FLYNN

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