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WHAT’S WRONG WITH YOU? Ana Bakran Self-published by Ana Bakran Sesvete, 2019 Title: What’s wrong with you? Self-published by Ana Bakran Edited by Maja Klarić Proofread by Ruth Hickey Designed by Tash Tash, Grafično oblik. in fotografija, Tjaša Turk Blažević, s. p. Photographs by Ana Bakran Printed by Kerschoffset Zagreb d.o.o. Published in Croatia – April, 2019 ISBN 978-953-48436-1-1 Copyright © Ana Bakran, 2019 All rights reserved. This book or parts thereof may not be reproduced in any form, stored in any retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means — electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording, or otherwise — without prior written permission of the publisher. For permission requests, write to the publisher, at the address below. Publisher’s address Ana Bakran, Soblinec, Soblinečka 35, 10360 Sesvete, Croatia www.anabakran.com [email protected] The book is non-fiction based on recalled experiences. The author recreated events, locales and conversations from her memories of them. In order to maintain their anonymity in some instances the author has changed the names of individuals and places, some identifying characteristics and details such as physical properties, occupations and places of residence. Disclaimer The material in this publication is of the nature of general comment only and does not represent professional travel, health and safety advice. It is not intended to provide specific guidance for particular circumstances and it should not be relied on as the basis for any decision to take action or not take action on any matter which it covers. Readers should obtain relevant and current professional travel, health and safety advice where appropriate before making any such decision. To the maximum extent permitted by law the author and publisher disclaim all responsibility and liability to any person, arising directly or indirectly from any person taking or not taking action based on the information in this publication. The material in this publication does not offer an official professional advice that readers should follow. WHAT’S WRONG WITH YOU? TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. LIFE BEFORE THE JOURNEY 8 (How it all started) 2. PREPARATION 15 (Let’s pack up and go!) 3. HITCHHIKING BUDDIES – PART ONE 19 (Room for one more?) 4. HITCHHIKING BUDDIES – PART TWO 39 (Birds of a feather flock together) 5. TRAVELING ALONE 50 (Hitchhiking: men versus women. Who has it easier?) 6. BORDERS AND VISAS 70 (Rules, crossings, authorities, bureaucracy and other shenanigans) 7. LIVING ON THE ROAD 81 (My daily routine in uncertain times) 8. FEARS AND RISKS 97 (Thank you for being here) 9. A DIFFERENT WORLD 109 (The world won’t change for me) 10. POSITIVE VIBRATIONS 118 (Good vibes only) 11. TOP 10 REASONS WHY IT IS GREAT TO TRAVEL ALONE 128 (Being alone without feeling lonely) 12. WORK, SAVE, TRAVEL 131 (Simple, but not easy) 13. HITCHHIKING FERRIES, BOATS, AND A HELICOPTER 145 (To a determined mind, nothing is impossible) 14. HEALTH AND SCAMS 156 (Trust your gut, it’s there for a reason) 15. GOING VEGAN 164 (You must be joking, right?) 16. SEX, LOVE AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN 171 (There is nothing wrong with living a life that others don’t understand) 17. I DID IT! 176 (Remember when you wanted what you currently have?) 18. COMING HOME. WHAT NOW?! 189 (Not every place you fit in is where you belong) 19. THIS CAN’T BE REAL 195 (The magic spiral) 20. WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO BE A SINGLE WOMAN HITCHHIKER? 216 (No permission needed) 21. STORYTIME 233 (Sit back and relax) ABOUT THE AUTHOR 253 THANK YOU 254 PHOTOS FROM MY JOURNEY 255 VIEW MORE PHOTOS 287 WHAT’S WRONG WITH YOU? CHAPTER 1 LIFE BEFORE THE JOURNEY (How it all started) 11:50 p.m., December 26, 2013 (a snippet from my diary) I’m stuck again on the first rays of sun, or so I hope. highway at a Chinese gas They make my freezing nights station somewhere on the way more bearable. to Yuanyang, close to Mile City, A week ago, Julia (my travel about 150km from Kunming. It’s buddy) and I got invited by a gas freezing cold and I have no place station and hotel manager to to lay my head down for the stay at his hotel for free after night. I keep reminding myself he saw our failed hitchhiking that feeling sorry, happy or attempts out in the cold. Today miserable is my own choice. is not one of those days. This It’s not helping. gas station doesn’t have a I’ve just put on an extra pair hotel, but it’s a good spot for of socks, a sweater and a cap. a fresh start tomorrow morning. I plugged in my laptop and have The workers seem curious and started typing these lines. At friendly with no intention of least I have an electrical socket throwing me out into the cold. I and power. Woohooo! Maybe can see that by the way they’re one day, if I ever write a book, looking at me. Eventually, they the story will start right here, will stop paying attention to me shivering at this gas station and I will blend in as one of them during a sleepless night. I don’t until morning. think that will ever happen Once again, I’m blaming though. myself for having spent too Gas stations around China much time in Turkey and Iran have been my mothers and muses during the summer, so now I have so far. They feed me, keep me to rough it through China during safe and provide me with enough winter. Everything seemed so time and inspiration during the easy in summer. Less clothing, night to keep me entertained less weight to carry, a better with my own thoughts before I choice of sleeping spots...the catch the next ride with the whole world seemed brighter. I RETURN TO TOC 8 had promised myself for the thinking of each other, right gazillionth time not to make the now? same mistake ever again. Wow! A crazy thing just I’ve just gone through all happened. As I was typing these the photos of my journey so lines, a girl who works at the gas far. That made me think of my station brought me a big, dark hitchhiking buddies, which gave green, warm coat – the kind I’d me an instant boost of energy. seen the policemen wear over I wondered where they were right their uniforms at the Chinese now? Were they at some event border. She brought hot water we’d been invited to on numerous in a cup, put together four occasions? Were they dancing at chairs for me to lie down on, and some wedding or at a children’s pointed at the hot pots near circumcision party? Had they the counter to pick something met somebody amazing, gotten to eat if I was hungry. There is into trouble, or were they no hotel at this gas station, but stuck at a gas station like me? it seemed like she was trying to Nothing is off limits when you make a “hotel” just for me. are hitchhiking. I can’t write anymore. I just What were the odds we were want to cry now. Tears of joy. RETURN TO TOC 9 Nothing can make the beginning easier than simply starting. With that thought in mind, I started my long hitchhiking journey from Croatia, my home country, to Bora Bora, a small Pacific island on the other side of the world. Thinking, overthinking and planning the details I knew I wouldn’t have any control over was pointless, so I let go of it all, except the journey itself. I’m not sure if that had been the right approach, but it seemed to work for me. I decided to figure things out along the way. That saved me a lot of overthinking and anxiety, even though it didn’t always work in my favor. “Are you sure this is the right time to leave?” my friend asked. “I guess it’s as right as it will ever be,” I replied. “I just don’t understand why you would want to do that to yourself,” my friend continued. “What if you’re making the biggest mistake of your life and you regret it when you return? Oh, let’s not forget...in case you make it back alive! What’s wrong with you? Let’s take a trip to Bali together...we’ll have fun, you’ll take a break from work and forget that crazy idea of yours. Pfft! Hitchhiking to Bora Bora! Don’t be silly. I think you need a vacation.” “I don’t want a vacation. I want to see the world. You don’t understand, this has been a dream of mine for far too long. I really want to do it,” I replied. It was February 2013, and I had just put closure on running a small company for five years. I was selling digital copyrights and doing digital marketing for an international brand. My international client was bought out by another company and the new management decided to close offices all around Europe – my city included. I was standing at my own personal intersection of finding another client or finding another job. Feeling overworked and mentally exhausted, I decided to change the direction I was headed. As depressing as losing the client and closing the business was, I saw it as a fresh start and a new opportunity. An opportunity to move away from a life I felt stuck in, and instead, take action to make a dream of mine a reality.